# Nissan Leaf motor coupler



## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

I want to go with pauls controller and leaf motor,


Has anyone found a Coupler that will fit the leaf output shaft?

I dont really want to spend £600 for the gearbox just to use the shaft out of it.

anyone ??

Thanks


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## Batterypoweredtoad (Feb 5, 2008)

Here's some info I had bookmarked from this forum http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/nissan-leaf-motor-168410.html relating to spline count, shaft diameter, and possible clutch discs. It's a start.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

In addition to the thread mentioned above (_Nissan leaf motor_) there is also an extended effort to build a coupler for a Leaf motor by dedlast, in _85 Supra conversion_ (near the end of the thread). That one uses part of the Leaf transaxle's input shaft, so the actual parts used are not quite what you would want... it's just a possibly useful information source.


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## D a n n y^ (Aug 4, 2015)

Maybe you could hit the junk yard and grab some old clutch parts and weld them onto some tubing? 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=F6EOl1YO9VI

The coupler I'm using will slide over both the transmission as well as the motor spline with minimal play.

Hope that helps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

Thanks will take a look.

I would be happy with just the input shaft and then just have it welded to a lovejoy connector

I have sent a email to Nissan parts if is possible to order just the input shaft from the gearbox. getting replies back that they need the VIN/Chassis number.


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## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

zippy500 said:


> I have sent a email to Nissan parts if is possible to order just the input shaft from the gearbox. getting replies back that they need the VIN/Chassis number.


Try using the US based online parts vendors... I purchased parts from the Nissan battery without providing any vehicle info.


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

......well hit a brick wall with Nissan, reply from them is the gearbox is only sold as a whole unit..


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## dedlast (Aug 17, 2013)

I need to update my thread. My machinist friend convinced me that I needed to go back to my original idea for my build, which is to machine my own coupling. The Leaf input shaft is hardened and would be difficult to do much with besides weld and grind. 

I have a CAD drawing with what I think is the right spline shape, or close enough, but I haven't taken the next step of having samples EDM'd to test it. 

Bill


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

be great if you could update your post to see what others are doing.

is it possible to have a spline coupler made, how much would one cost?

I see that old Fords (80's 90's) had 20 spline clutch plates has anyone tried one.

seems to be alot of 20 spline couplers available in the tractor industry!!

HELP- someone stop me--I feel my OCD coming on. I can see a lot of random 20 spline couplers packages coming through my door


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Whoa pilgrim: measure spline sizes, spacings and diameters using a caliper. At this point even harbor freight $10 one will work. Then look at the specifications of the shafts to see what comes close. Might be just a case of some hand filing to get one that fits a standard SAE spline profile.


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## hmincr (Jan 20, 2012)

There is someone on this site that went through the search for matching splines. They found something that fit perfectly. My search skills are terrible, but, someone should be able to find that info.


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## dedlast (Aug 17, 2013)

For a slip fit, the clutch disk from an early '90's Geo tracker is perfect. It has a 7/8" 20-tooth spline and only has a little bit of free play. 
For an interference (shrink on) fit, which is what I want so it stays on the motor shaft, I haven't found anything that fits. 

Bill


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Why do you want a shrink fit?
It's designed to work with a sliding fit


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

is a geo tracker a suzuki samari euro equivalent.

OK just a few steps back, if all else fails  and go with a leaf input shaft what problems will arise?

Bill you have this part

Can the input shaft be cut down

Can it be welded?

Thanks


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## D a n n y^ (Aug 4, 2015)

zippy500 said:


> is a geo tracker a suzuki samari euro equivalent.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Unfortunately at this time there is no easy answer to solving this coupler issue. But the existing piece from the Nissan gear box is definitely machinable. I had mine machined with no issues. 

My 1986 Suzuki Samurai Re-Conversion?
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...rums/showthread.php?p=904178&share_pid=904178


Also the geo/samurai of that year should both work. If you decide to go that route I can provide you with the clutch part number, but you are better off buying one from a junk yard or finding someone who has a worn clutch.


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## dedlast (Aug 17, 2013)

Duncan said:


> Why do you want a shrink fit?
> It's designed to work with a sliding fit


Which on this forum doesn't mean much. After all, the motor you're using certainly wasn't designed for the use you're putting it to.

Also, using it as a slip fit in my setup will cause as much or more complication than designing something to use it as a shrink fit. And will take up about 3 times the space.

The input shaft is hardened, which should be a minor issue for a competent shop.

Bill


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Duncan said:


> Why do you want a shrink fit?
> It's designed to work with a sliding fit


The Leaf design has a sliding fit between a motor shaft (male spline) and a transaxle shaft (female spline), with both shafts being well-located in their own bearings.

In contrast, the DIY application needs to connect the male splined motor shaft to a male-splined transmission input shaft. That means another connector element (some sort of coupler), which needs to be located by something, which in turn means that it should be fixed to one shaft or the other.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Somebody should bring back the old Kaylor VW/aircraft generator style adapter plates to use with these Leaf motors:
















This images are stolen from Pete's(One Green EV) blog about using the Kaylor adapter. The side of the bearing cartridge next to his right hand takes the male spline(I checked, it's not the same as the Leaf spline) of an old aircraft generator(run as a motor). You may recognize the typical aircooled VW flywheel spigot next to his left hand (see flywheel to the right). The two support bearings are in between. The cartridge slides into and snap ringed into the aluminum housing. This style adapter would be a great way to use these readily available Leaf motors with or without a clutch. Also, it's very easy to remove and reattach the motor.

P.S. Don't repeatedly stab your hand with a screw driver like I'm sure Pete is doing, putting the snap ring in! Get some good snap ring pliers.


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## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

Seems like still no one has a decent solution for this. I want an adapter that fits on the splines and then has a flange that bolts to the flywheel, but I'm dreading the cost of having a single piece machined. Would maybe some people be interested in doing like a group buy or something? maybe could design it with a blank flange and then people could tap their own holes for whatever flywheel pattern they happen to have.

Thoughts?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Lol. The snap ring was not that bad and my snap ring pliers were too small. It worked and I did not stab my hand.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> Lol. The snap ring was not that bad and my snap ring pliers were too small. It worked and I did not stab my hand.


 Forgive me Pete, for underestimating your prowess with a screwdriver.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Hollie Maea said:


> Seems like still no one has a decent solution for this. I want an adapter that fits on the splines and then has a flange that bolts to the flywheel, but I'm dreading the cost of having a single piece machined. Would maybe some people be interested in doing like a group buy or something? maybe could design it with a blank flange and then people could tap their own holes for whatever flywheel pattern they happen to have.
> 
> Thoughts?


 I've welded-up clamping couplings like this before: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-1882

And, although kind of clunky looking, they've worked. Two opposite clamping bolts with the kerf(split) on both sides of the coupling(but not all the way to the end!) would be better, and easier to balance. Didn't somebody write that a '90s Geo Tracker clutch disk has the same dia and spline. Someone should get one and machine the hub off and weld on a tube(s) or long nut(s) like in the photo. Cutting the kerf with an abrasive cut-off saw by hand is doable, but not safe! Better to temporarily weld it to good base before cutting the kerf.

As far as mounting a flywheel, this motor output shaft may have too small of a diameter(22mm,~7/8" dia) to safely mount a typical ICE flywheel. Also isn't it necked down somewhat between the splines and the motor? Is there a good shoulder on the motor shaft that a coupling could be clamped against with a bolt in a drilled and tapped hole in the end of the shaft?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

electro wrks said:


> Forgive me Pete, for underestimating your prowess with a screwdriver.


I use what I have on hand. 

Would have been better to use a hard block of wood to push that back into place. Hindsight is so amazing. 



Need to find a little dune buggy to put this motor/adapter into. Run it like it was designed. I have the original books from Roy Kaylor too. Looking for another Kaylor Adapter.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> As far as mounting a flywheel, this motor output shaft may have too small of a diameter(22mm,~7/8" dia) to safely mount a typical ICE flywheel.


I suspect that this motor shaft, which is intended to take zero force in any direction other than torque, is far from suitable for a flywheel. That's just an educated guess, but I share electro wrks' concern.

If hanging a flywheel on it as one side of a clutch assembly, I would suggest at least using a very light one - preferably aluminum if you have a clutch disk compatible with aluminum, or a minimal steel or iron unit. Automotive flywheels can often be reduced in mass by half while retaining the ring gear for the starter, and there's no reason to keep that gear or any material used to support and retain it.

Any opinions on machining a custom "flywheel" as clutch mount and face, with whatever is most useful at the hub to match any available adapter on the shaft, rather than trying to use a stock crank flange pattern?


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## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

Maybe I'm not explaining very well. The coupler would also be supported by the transmission shaft via a pilot bearing so the weight isn't just hanging off the end of the motor. I was under the impression that this is the main way people coupled motors to transmissions when retaining the clutch and flywheel, but I'm certainly open to any suggestions for doing it better.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Hollie Maea said:


> Maybe I'm not explaining very well. The coupler would also be supported by the transmission shaft via a pilot bearing so the weight isn't just hanging off the end of the motor. I was under the impression that this is the main way people coupled motors to transmissions when retaining the clutch and flywheel...


Yes, but that's typically with motors intended for industrial use, driving chains or belts with tension applying force sideways on the motor shaft. The Leaf motor is designed specifically for a vehicle, optimized for minimum weight, and intended only to drive a splined shaft. Even then, leaving the full mass of the flywheel makes no sense to me.

The splines on the Leaf motor shaft provide an additional complication in achieving a true and solid connection.

Maybe it will be fine.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Hollie Maea said:


> Maybe I'm not explaining very well. The coupler would also be supported by the transmission shaft via a pilot bearing so the weight isn't just hanging off the end of the motor. I was under the impression that this is the main way people coupled motors to transmissions when retaining the clutch and flywheel, but I'm certainly open to any suggestions for doing it better.


Actually the support is the other way around. The ICE has relatively massive journals and bearings to support the large reciprocating loads of the pistons and connecting rods. The typical RWD(and some FWD) transmission input shaft, with a pilot bearing, takes advantage of these large journals and bearings to support the outer end of the input shaft. In many cases the transmission input shaft normally has a few mm of flop side to side, up and down, and needs a well located and supported pilot bearing to be properly aligned and supported. Obviously, the electric motor doesn't have the large reciprocating loads on its bearings, but the end of the transmission input shaft still needs to well aligned and supported.

As far as the Leaf motor shaft being too small to support a ICE flywheel, I've seen flywheels exhibit an oscillating, gyroscopic motion when they were attach to small shafts-very scary at thousands of RPM! Maybe, someone else knows what causes this. Lack of harmonic dampening? It's something to be aware of when attaching flywheels to much smaller shafts


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

I have tried multiple clutch disks with 20 spline count and i found just one that fits. It is Fiat Multipla 1.6L gas engine. Get it? Multiple for Multipla . 

Well that disk fits like a glove. So if i would design a coupler for transmission i would make a dual flange with car original clutch disk (only the part with springs) on one side and Multipla clutch disk on the other side. That way you would keep flexibility and it would tolerate little offset.

A


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

arber333 said:


> So if i would design a coupler for transmission i would make a dual flange with car original clutch disk (only the part with springs) on one side and Multipla clutch disk on the other side. That way you would keep flexibility and it would tolerate little offset.


Here is an explanation of the transmission/motor alignment issue:http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0607-bellhousing-alignment/ 
This for an ICE setup but applies equally for an electric motor. Note that the article says that the alignment needs to be within 0.005" (~0.13mm). This tight of tolerance is really only obtainable with dial indicator or other precision measuring instrument(s). You could set-up the alignment by feel and by eye(without measuring instruments), but obtaining this level of alignment would be a matter of luck more than anything else.

Also, the transmission input shaft of the typical rear wheel drive vehicle(like yours is?) needs to be well supported, like with a pilot bearing in the original ICE set-up. The splines by themselves may not provide enough support. This lack of support and poor alignment, as mentioned above, may have contributed to the spline failure in your original build.


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

electro wrks said:


> Here is an explanation of the transmission/motor alignment issue:http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0607-bellhousing-alignment/
> This for an ICE setup but applies equally for an electric motor. Note that the article says that the alignment needs to be within 0.005" (~0.13mm). This tight of tolerance is really only obtainable with dial indicator or other precision measuring instrument(s). You could set-up the alignment by feel and by eye(without measuring instruments), but obtaining this level of alignment would be a matter of luck more than anything else.
> 
> Also, the transmission input shaft of the typical rear wheel drive vehicle(like yours is?) needs to be well supported, like with a pilot bearing in the original ICE set-up. The splines by themselves may not provide enough support. This lack of support and poor alignment, as mentioned above, may have contributed to the spline failure in your original build.


No, actually i will just use Leaf motor, gearbox and driveshafts in a FWD configuration. I am just trying to explain what i would do if i tried to combine Leaf motor with FWD car transmission. 
In case of RWD with direct connection to motor the spline coupler would be adequate i suppose. Since it can absorb significant missalignment.


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

arber333 said:


> I have tried multiple clutch disks with 20 spline count and i found just one that fits. It is Fiat Multipla 1.6L gas engine. Get it? Multiple for Multipla .
> 
> 
> A


Good find

Can you tell us which year car the clutch plate is from or doesn't it matter

Did you try paul homes 1970 fiat 500 plate for fitment?

I like your idea of fitting the leaf motor with the gearbox.

I want to fit it to a RWD car in place of the rear diff would be (if space allows), only problem is I might have to mount the setup back to front, which someone said that the leaf gearbox isn't designed to run backwards at speed because of the oil pick up.

Can anyone confirm this?

Think of the weight saving losing the whole gearbox/clutch, prop and rear diff.


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

zippy500 said:


> Good find
> 
> Can you tell us which year car the clutch plate is from or doesn't it matter
> 
> ...


Yes, Fiat 500 was the first thing i checked and its intenal splines diameter is too small...
I think every Multipla 1.6L should be good. But i got my disk from year 2004.

Design is 20splines with 23mm nominal hub diameter.
I think it would support other cars with 1.6L engine, like Bravo, Brava, Marea etc... I just didnt check them all.


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## dedlast (Aug 17, 2013)

arber333 said:


> Yes, Fiat 500 was the first thing i checked and its intenal splines diameter is too small...



Do you recall what diameter the Fiat clutch was? Or, how much too small was it. If it was only a couple thousandths of an inch, heating it could allow it to open up far enough to slip on and then cool to lock in place. Maybe.

Bill


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

dedlast said:


> Do you recall what diameter the Fiat clutch was? Or, how much too small was it. If it was only a couple thousandths of an inch, heating it could allow it to open up far enough to slip on and then cool to lock in place. Maybe.
> 
> Bill


I dont think so. It was somewhere at 19mm and much smaller outside disk diameter. Heating internal splines wouldnt accomplish anything.

Leaf shaft is 22mm OD. and Multipla internal splines are cca 23.6mm so median is somewhere at 23mm.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

arber333 said:


> In case of RWD with direct connection to motor the spline coupler would be adequate i suppose. Since it can absorb significant missalignment.


 No, you suppose wrong. The transmission input shaft in the typical rear wheel drive set-up should be well supported, like with a pilot bearing, AND well aligned. Most OEMs recommend the center-line alignment be within 0.003-0.005"(~0.08-0.13mm). Deviation from either of these requirements can lead to transmission gear wear, bearing failure, and other broken parts.

This forum is full stories of broken parts and wasted transmission from people not following through on these requirements. In one case the alignment was so bad, a motor shaft was snapped off! In other cases, people have destroyed multiple transmissions before understanding this requirement. 

Why is this so hard to understand? OEMs go to a lot of trouble and expense to incorporate carefully located and machined dowel pin or spigots in their engine and transmission designs, along with the pilot bearings, to meet these requirements. Talk to ICE builders about leaving out dowel pins or pilot bearings in their rebuilds, and the mayhem that results. We don't get a pass on these requirements just because some of us are amateurs using electric motors.

I see recently Damien did not address these requirements in his new 1000 Euro build thread. You have to admire Damien's skill with electronics and software. But, in this case, he is potentially opening himself up to a lot of hurt by not following through on this mechanical design issue.


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## dedlast (Aug 17, 2013)

arber333 said:


> I dont think so. It was somewhere at 19mm and much smaller outside disk diameter. Heating internal splines wouldnt accomplish anything.
> 
> Leaf shaft is 22mm OD. and Multipla internal splines are cca 23.6mm so median is somewhere at 23mm.


Bummer about the Fiat. That does seem a bit too small. 

Did you try the Geo clutch disk? It's spec'd as a 7/8" 20-tooth, which is 22.25mm OD and, according to my calipers, 20 mm ID. It has a good fit but there is a little bit of play when I slip it over my motor shaft. If I hand spin the motor with it on there, it "chatters" a little when the motor stops spinning.

Bill


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

dedlast said:


> Bummer about the Fiat. That does seem a bit too small.
> 
> Did you try the Geo clutch disk? It's spec'd as a 7/8" 20-tooth, which is 22.25mm OD and, according to my calipers, 20 mm ID. It has a good fit but there is a little bit of play when I slip it over my motor shaft. If I hand spin the motor with it on there, it "chatters" a little when the motor stops spinning.
> 
> Bill


No, i am from Europe so i grab what i can find here. 
Multipla has almost no play, and it was a used disk. If the play is noticable i would not put it on.
I may have mixed up my data since i was changing my car clutch at the same time. When i come home i will measure exact dimensions on motor and on disk. Splines on motor are tapered some in order to fit in gearbox. So if you measure in the end you get somewhat smaller OD than in the middle.

I do think that Electro wrks is correct. I have seen some of my friends use engine case to mount electric motor. They sawed off the part of case from the last bearing backwards and remade the seat so it is perpendicular with transmission. They use front part of the shaft to mount flywheel and motor on the other side. I whish i had my engine still .


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

arber333 said:


> I do think that Electro wrks is correct. I have seen some of my friends use engine case to mount electric motor. They sawed off the part of case from the last bearing backwards and remade the seat so it is perpendicular with transmission. They use front part of the shaft to mount flywheel and motor on the other side. I whish i had my engine still .


I had not thought of this set-up! The rear main bearing saddle and cap would be concentric with the transmission centerline. And, a good starting point from which to make a relatively simple machined motor mounting spacer. It would be a lot of work to cut-up the engine block(case) with a band saw or cut-off disks (or, by hand with a hacksaw!). Considering a good aftermarket adapter plate cost USD 800-1000, in some cases, it might be worth it.
In the past, when transmissions had separate bell housings, it was usually relatively easy to set-up the alignment. Not so now with most vehicles having integral bell housings.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

arber333 do you have any photos of your friends adapter plates made from the engine cases?


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

electro wrks said:


> arber333 do you have any photos of your friends adapter plates made from the engine cases?


Not right now, i will try to get them when i reach home. 
I can say though it surprised me too when i saw it. If you consider just cutting up the case area behind bearing you must then put the cut off piece on a lathe or mill and make rear surface perpendicular to the side that faces the transmission bell. That will fix the alignment problem since you only have a single dimension to care off. But they did not use the saw ... it was a electric disk cutter, so it could also cut through the crankshaft. Later they made a coupler to join crankshaft and motor shaft. In case of space it did consume more but it was exactly on the spot.

A


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## hmincr (Jan 20, 2012)

I don't see a big problem coming up with a coupling to fit the Leaf splined shaft. You still have to have a coupling for the transmission splined shaft. How to join the 2 coupling halves would be interesting.

I have thought about making the Leaf coupling part if there would be enough interest.


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## hmincr (Jan 20, 2012)

On another note, while prowling around on youtube (I pulled an upper leg/ butt muscle and can barely walk), I found a video that has info on VW/fiat CV joint splines. Seems they are 20/22 mm axles with 20 splines. 

Might be possible they would fit the Nissan Leaf motor shaft, or, maybe the Nissan Leaf CV joint would fit the motor shaft ? Someone with a Leaf motor laying around should check that out. The wheel hub end would be easy to match up to a Tranny input shaft, maybe ?


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## dedlast (Aug 17, 2013)

hmincr said:


> maybe the Nissan Leaf CV joint would fit the motor shaft ?


Interesting thought. I have the drive shafts from my Leaf laying out in the garage still so I took the transaxle input shaft (that slips over the motor shaft) out to see if they would match up. The drive shafts are a larger diameter on both ends than the motor shaft. I would say they are 30+mm OD.

Bill


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

dedlast said:


> I have the drive shafts from my Leaf laying out in the garage still so I took the transaxle input shaft (that slips over the motor shaft) out to see if they would match up. The drive shafts are a larger diameter on both ends than the motor shaft. I would say they are 30+mm OD.


That makes sense, because peak torque at the wheels is several times the peak torque at the engine or motor.


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## hmincr (Jan 20, 2012)

Was just a guess. The VW/Fiat is supposedly a 20-22mm 20 spline fit. There were no year models mentioned in that video.


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## CanadaLT28 (Oct 15, 2011)

I have a number of different VW CVs and they are all bigger than 25mm. I was hoping for a fit as well. No luck. Would the Multipla clutch spline match with the new 500?


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

arber333 said:


> Not right now, i will try to get them when i reach home.
> I can say though it surprised me too when i saw it. If you consider just cutting up the case area behind bearing you must then put the cut off piece on a lathe or mill and make rear surface perpendicular to the side that faces the transmission bell. That will fix the alignment problem since you only have a single dimension to care off. But they did not use the saw ... it was a electric disk cutter, so it could also cut through the crankshaft. Later they made a coupler to join crankshaft and motor shaft. In case of space it did consume more but it was exactly on the spot.
> 
> A


Have you been able to get any photos of this set-up yet? It sounds like one good way to address the alignment issue.


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

I'm actually trying to work with a small machine shop to get this done, so if the OP has made any progress on this, please share your info! 

The shop I was referred to for this project specializes in creating custom splined objects.

However, they are in west virginia, and Im in san francisco, so I need to try to give them accurate measurements so they can make this remotely.

My original plan was to make a hub to bolt my flywheel on to...the hub will fit on the leaf's motor shaft.

But after reading thru this thread,I learned that since the motor shaft wasn't designed to have any weight on it, putting a heavy ass flywheel on it is not a good idea.

I can either roll the dice and see if i can do the clutch setup anyway

or...

I will need some sort of sleeve coupler that will fit on the leaf shaft one 1 end and my original transmission's shaft on the other end.

so far, here are my measurements...I never done anything like this, so if anything feels "off" to you let me know.

splines: 20 (you already know that)
diameter (22mm you know this too)
spline width: 1.70mm
space between splines: 0.5mm (this was hard to measure, and im not sure if its right)
spline length 34.57mm

Anyway, I really wanna make this happen, im not sure if there's another electric motor with this performance for such a low cost. (i got mine for $500)

Oh yeah, Im not sure how much it will cost to make the coupler/adapter, but it doesn't seem like it will be too expensive...I guess I will see once the project officially starts.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Suggestion
Stick the motor in the back of your car

Drive around to local car parts and tractor parts suppliers

Find the ones that measure up closest and ask to take them out to your car - not sure how heavy that motor is - you may be able to carry it into the shop and set it on the counter 

There are LOTS of tractor parts that are spline driven 
Cars have clutch plates and also the part that holds the UJ on the old RWD cars - 

Then you can buy a part with the appropriate female spline - to be cut up and modified as you see fit


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

Yes I am in the same boat too.

I had a ambitious idea to mount the complete motor/gearbox at the rear of the car, but in reality I do not think it will work without some major rework of the rear suspension. 

I wonder how many successful leaf conversions there are that are linked to the cars original gearbox.

once the motor is mated to the gearbox wont the weight of the motor be held by the gear box too?

Else is to try direct drive with a lovejoy type joint, but then you still need a leaf coupler


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## CanadaLT28 (Oct 15, 2011)

As no one has stepped up to the plate on this one, I have taken what is probably the hardest path to do it, bought a metal shaper to make my own gears. I'd much rather just buy one and taking Duncans advise is probably best but it never hurts to have more tools, lol


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## dedlast (Aug 17, 2013)

I haven't posted anything for some time, but I tried to do some work on my input shaft and have realized that my machines just aren't up to it. I was going to try and cut some splines into the output side and I could see everything flexing as I tried to make the cut. I love my Sherline mill and lathe, they just aren't big enough and I'm not skilled enough to do this kind of work. On to plan C (or D).


Bill


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

Duncan said:


> Suggestion
> Stick the motor in the back of your car
> 
> Drive around to local car parts and tractor parts suppliers
> ...


the motor is fairly heavy, but this is do-able. Maybe Ill try to do this in addition to working with the spline shop. 

I have a 3d printer, so I guess if I can get some CAD files I can make a 3d printed object to test as well.

It seems like getting the spline info wont be too hard, but making a good decision on how to mate the motor to the transmission can be a sticking point.

I think if I can solve this properly, i can help others who are looking to use the leaf motor since they are cheap and "easily hackable"


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

zippy500 said:


> Yes I am in the same boat too.
> 
> once the motor is mated to the gearbox wont the weight of the motor be held by the gear box too?


It will be held by the motor mount thats on the leaf motor as well as the adapter plate and the mount(s) that bolts the transmission to the car.


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## D a n n y^ (Aug 4, 2015)

CanadaLT28 said:


> As no one has stepped up to the plate on this one, I have taken what is probably the hardest path to do it, bought a metal shaper to make my own gears. I'd much rather just buy one and taking Duncans advise is probably best but it never hurts to have more tools, lol


In my build thread I have a description on how I have coupled my transmission spline to the leaf motor spline. Not everyone has the option of gutting a leaf gear box, but that was my approach. I have not run the motor yet, so we will see if that works out. 

Attached is a PDF file with measurements for one of the adapter plate used to couple the Suzuki Samurai transmission to the Nissan Leaf motor. Hopefully this measurements assist someone in their design. Here is a brief description of my set up (Pictures availiable upon request):

The Suzuki Samurai transmission is attached to an electroworks adapter plate that originally coupled it to an Azure Dynamics AC24LS motor. From there, Brock, aka #electronmonkey on instagram designed an adapter plate that adapts the electroworks adapter plate to the Nissan Leaf Motor. (This is what you will see on the PDF file).

Not trying to Hi-Jack this thread so Here is the file. I dont come on to this forum very often anymore after losing half of my progress posts 

Ocasionally I post my progress on instagram however( Sorry my progress is slow ) - #dannycorselli

View attachment Leaf Adapter PDF.PDF


Good Luck Guys!


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

D a n n y^ said:


> In my build thread I have a description on how I have coupled my transmission spline to the leaf motor spline. Not everyone has the option of gutting a leaf gear box, but that was my approach. I have not run the motor yet, so we will see if that works out.
> 
> Attached is a PDF file with measurements for one of the adapter plate used to couple the Suzuki Samurai transmission to the Nissan Leaf motor. Hopefully this measurements assist someone in their design. Here is a brief description of my set up (Pictures availiable upon request):
> 
> ...


awesome!! thank you!!

BTW, in the off chance that you wont need the coupler you made in the near future, I'm guessing that it may be used as a template for a shop so we can get others made.

If you are interested in exploring this, let me know...if not, thats fine too.


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## zsnemeth (Jan 4, 2012)

kablammyman said:


> so far, here are my measurements...I never done anything like this, so if anything feels "off" to you let me know.
> 
> splines: 20 (you already know that)
> diameter (22mm you know this too)
> ...



Check out the clutch disks of the '80-'90 Suzukis, I think the 1.3L engine had this spline.
They had two splines at that time, 20 and 21, but I'm not sure.
I've used them on two of my Hitachi forklift motors, those had this kind of splines, as far as I remember...


I think this is the one: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pft-mu47545-1/overview/make/suzuki/model/samurai


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## D a n n y^ (Aug 4, 2015)

kablammyman said:


> awesome!! thank you!!
> 
> BTW, in the off chance that you wont need the coupler you made in the near future, I'm guessing that it may be used as a template for a shop so we can get others made.
> 
> If you are interested in exploring this, let me know...if not, thats fine too.


I am originally from the SF Bay Area and will be visiting during the holidays. If I don't have the car completely buttoned up by then, I will pull the coupler and bring it up. You would only have a couple of days to take a look/measurements. If all goes well though, I hope to be towing a finished project up that way (not likely though).

If someone could find a leaf gearbox in a junkyard, that would at least get you one end of the spline!


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

D a n n y^ said:


> I am originally from the SF Bay Area and will be visiting during the holidays. If I don't have the car completely buttoned up by then, I will pull the coupler and bring it up. You would only have a couple of days to take a look/measurements. If all goes well though, I hope to be towing a finished project up that way (not likely though).
> 
> If someone could find a leaf gearbox in a junkyard, that would at least get you one end of the spline!


sounds good to me.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

Let me know if any of you guys want to get serious about production. I own a CNC shop in Texas and am happy to quote the parts. We don't have in-house EDM capability, but we do have one of the best EDM shops in the country close to us in Houston. I've had them cut splines a couple times with great success and the price wasn't unreasonable.


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

coleasterling said:


> Let me know if any of you guys want to get serious about production. I own a CNC shop in Texas and am happy to quote the parts. We don't have in-house EDM capability, but we do have one of the best EDM shops in the country close to us in Houston. I've had them cut splines a couple times with great success and the price wasn't unreasonable.


Let me know what you would need to prove serious intent, I'm interested to hear your idea on a group buy or some sort of kit that will be available.

On a side note:

i do believe that since there is a few of us here that are attempting this means that others would want to do the same thing...IF there was some sort of kit or something to help make this easier to do.

Now, how many people would put up money for this? Im not sure.

But leaf motors are very capable, cheap and abundant...and that cant be ignored. So, I guess once a few more leaf swaps get some exposure kicking ass is when more people will try to jump on the band wagon.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

kablammyman said:


> Let me know what you would need to prove serious intent, I'm interested to hear your idea on a group buy or some sort of kit that will be available.
> 
> On a side note:
> 
> ...


I'd need drawings and solids including spline parameters and tolerances, along with expected production numbers. 

I can reverse engineer the spline if sent a part, but getting splines and spline tolerance right is tricky if it isn't standard. We've done a custom spline in the past and it worked GREAT, but getting the spline profile digitized was absolutely critical. It may not be as critical with this part, as a little backlash wouldn't be significant to function. Of course there has to be some small amount of play anyway. 

Anyway, feel free to PM me and we can go from there. I'm open to group buys or whatever. For small production run parts, it always helps to add more people to amortize the setup and programming fees across.


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## mleebert (Aug 6, 2018)

I have a 2013 Leaf I'm prepping to use in a swap and I'm interested in a coupler solution.


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## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

coleasterling said:


> Let me know if any of you guys want to get serious about production. I own a CNC shop in Texas and am happy to quote the parts. We don't have in-house EDM capability, but we do have one of the best EDM shops in the country close to us in Houston. I've had them cut splines a couple times with great success and the price wasn't unreasonable.


For what it's worth, I have a Leaf motor, and I am ready to take it down to Rinehart Motion Systems to get it characterized as soon as I get a coupler solution (I need it to put on the dyno as well as to put it in my car). So once that happens this motor will be able to work with their inverters which could increase the number of people who would want to use it, and thereby increase demand for a coupler.

Paired with a Rinehart PM250DZ, you could get 300 kW out of this motor...


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## CanadaLT28 (Oct 15, 2011)

I have gone so far as to buy a small Atlas shaper to make the splines and any other gearing I want. If you have the CAD work done a coupler should not cost more than a few hundred. Without that.....it's all manual which is more my capability. I would rather buy something though.


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

coleasterling said:


> I'd need drawings and solids including spline parameters and tolerances, along with expected production numbers.
> 
> I can reverse engineer the spline if sent a part, but getting splines and spline tolerance right is tricky if it isn't standard. We've done a custom spline in the past and it worked GREAT, but getting the spline profile digitized was absolutely critical. It may not be as critical with this part, as a little backlash wouldn't be significant to function. Of course there has to be some small amount of play anyway.
> 
> Anyway, feel free to PM me and we can go from there. I'm open to group buys or whatever. For small production run parts, it always helps to add more people to amortize the setup and programming fees across.


pm sent. hopefully we either get enough people, or we can do things to get the price down so the idea doesn't die before leaving the drawing board.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

Hollie Maea said:


> For what it's worth, I have a Leaf motor, and I am ready to take it down to Rinehart Motion Systems to get it characterized as soon as I get a coupler solution (I need it to put on the dyno as well as to put it in my car). So once that happens this motor will be able to work with their inverters which could increase the number of people who would want to use it, and thereby increase demand for a coupler.
> 
> Paired with a Rinehart PM250DZ, you could get 300 kW out of this motor...


Yesssss. That's the perfect controller for the Leaf motor.


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

WOW nice price for the 150KW version 

http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=262


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

zippy500 said:


> WOW nice price for the 150KW version
> 
> http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=262


are these controllers popular? Im building my own (never done this before) but I went down this path because I didn't know such controllers existed. (i do like the cost savings and the DIY aspects of building my own too)

I assume they come with their own software thats easy to use and tune?


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

zippy500 said:


> WOW nice price for the 150KW version
> 
> http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=262


There's no doubt they are expensive, but there aren't very many alternatives on the open market. I've never heard a single complaint about them, either. 

The PM150 is fairly common for use in FSAE/FS Electric cars, typically paired with an EMRAX 228 or HVH250.


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

coleasterling said:


> There's no doubt they are expensive, but there aren't very many alternatives on the open market. I've never heard a single complaint about them.


How about the open source like pauls and johannes Huebner


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

I don't know that anyone has used a P&S controller for the leaf motor, but Paul has driven other IPM's with it. No clue on the Huebner. There is a leaf motor being run with a custom controller using the Lebowski brain at well over 200kW. Details of the entire build are on ES.


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## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

zippy500 said:


> WOW nice price for the 150KW version
> 
> http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=262


Yeah, they're expensive...the PM250 is something like 12 grand, but if you want 300 kW AC in a 17 kg package, what is the alternative?


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## mleebert (Aug 6, 2018)

Paul has boards for 2011-2015. They are a replacement for a board in the inverter and will require connector soldering. Last I checked he was looking to sell them for $300. You can email him at [email protected]

Johannes is currently working on an adapter board. You can watch his progress latest progress video here https://youtu.be/JQ4UmW7OSc8


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## CanadaLT28 (Oct 15, 2011)

Any idea of the numbers needed to produce the coupler or a timeline?


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

Anyone know the "spline spec" of the nissan leaf shaft?

The guy I'm working with is "old school" and needs the specs to do this right.

He said once he has that spec, he can get something done in a few days.

If not, how can i figure this out myself? (Googling hasnt been kind to me)

[EDIT]

He said the spec would be something like "24-48-32" or "24-48-64"...its the pressure angle aka spline angle.

Anybody know much about this?


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

mleebert said:


> Paul has boards for 2011-2015. They are a replacement for a board in the inverter and will require connector soldering. Last I checked he was looking to sell them for $300. You can email him at [email protected]
> 
> Johannes is currently working on an adapter board. You can watch his progress latest progress video here https://youtu.be/JQ4UmW7OSc8


I tried contacting him a while back...I dont remember if he was super busy, or just wasnt making boards for a while, but I ended up getting a "kit" from Arlin. I still need to put it together tho.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

I could figure it out if I had a motor, but I have not been able to find any references stating what it is. It is entirely possible that it is a fully custom spline, too. Unfortunately, that's not uncommon.


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

coleasterling said:


> I could figure it out if I had a motor, but I have not been able to find any references stating what it is. It is entirely possible that it is a fully custom spline, too. Unfortunately, that's not uncommon.


damn...okay. I'll see what I can do to "measure" it or even guess...


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

Im not sure if any of you seen this thread, but this may help us all trying to do this:

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1024663&postcount=33

its an adapter plate that you may be able to use as the basis of your leafMotor-to-transmission adapter plate


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## dedlast (Aug 17, 2013)

There is also this post. Not a CAD file but it does have the numbers to plug into your own CAD file.


https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=914850&postcount=14


Bill


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

dedlast said:


> There is also this post. Not a CAD file but it does have the numbers to plug into your own CAD file.
> 
> 
> https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=914850&postcount=14
> ...


Nice! Adapter plates are pretty easy in the end, especially if they are just flat plate.


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## Ford_Model_LEAF (Nov 1, 2018)

First post here. Just want to share a short video I just made between Nissan Leaf motor and Suzuki Samurai/Sidekick clutch friction disc. There is a bit too much play in my opinion. You can check it out for yourself: https://youtu.be/rNISAE1mXzM


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## CanadaLT28 (Oct 15, 2011)

Ford_Model_LEAF said:


> First post here. Just want to share a short video I just made between Nissan Leaf motor and Suzuki Samurai/Sidekick clutch friction disc. There is a bit too much play in my opinion. You can check it out for yourself: https://youtu.be/rNISAE1mXzM



That's good to see. It's similar to the slop on my clutch disc on my VW (although not quite as pronounced.). I've decided to make my own adapter with a shaper so hopefully it will come out very tight.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Ford_Model_LEAF said:


> First post here. Just want to share a short video I just made between Nissan Leaf motor and Suzuki Samurai/Sidekick clutch friction disc. There is a bit too much play in my opinion. You can check it out for yourself: https://youtu.be/rNISAE1mXzM


It does look pretty loose. For comparison, someone should check the fit on a Samurai /Sidekick transmission input shaft.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Ford_Model_LEAF said:


> Just want to share a short video I just made between Nissan Leaf motor and Suzuki Samurai/Sidekick clutch friction disc. There is a bit too much play in my opinion. You can check it out for yourself: https://youtu.be/rNISAE1mXzM


A clutch disk needs to float on the transmission input shaft. Rotational play is undesirable, but it needs to slide along the shaft easily.

If you are considering using the hub of the clutch disk as part of a coupler, to join the Leaf motor's shaft to a transmission input shaft, it might not be as snug a fit as you would like.


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## Ford_Model_LEAF (Nov 1, 2018)

@CanadaLT28. Would be very interested to see how your own adapter with a shaper turns out. Please update us when available. Thanks


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## kiwifiat (Feb 3, 2009)

Ford_Model_LEAF said:


> First post here. Just want to share a short video I just made between Nissan Leaf motor and Suzuki Samurai/Sidekick clutch friction disc. There is a bit too much play in my opinion. You can check it out for yourself: https://youtu.be/rNISAE1mXzM



I tried a FIAT twin cam 124/125/132/131 clutch plate on the leaf output shaft and it also has too much play. When the FIAT clutch plate is on the FIAT gearbox input shaft it is a snug fit with no decernable play.


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## CanadaLT28 (Oct 15, 2011)

There was a comment, I think by Brian, stating that there may be too much play and it would not be good, which is why I abandoned that route. 

Tis the crazy time of year for house construction and renovation so I have not been able to get to work with my shaper yet. Hopefully I will have a spline cut within a few weeks.


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## mainsource (Oct 30, 2017)

I recently paid a gear and spline engineer to reverse engineer splines for the 2nd Gen Leaf motor. In other words; I currently have possession of precision spline data documentation for the Nissan Leaf motor power output shaft. We can do a group thing and / or you guys could place me in contact with a gear and spline engineering shop that comes highly recommended. Feel free to PM me as well. 
Keith
[email protected]
+1 604 499 8357


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

mainsource said:


> I recently paid a gear and spline engineer to reverse engineer splines for the 2nd Gen Leaf motor. In other words; I currently have possession of precision spline data documentation for the Nissan Leaf motor power output shaft. We can do a group thing and / or you guys could place me in contact with a gear and spline engineering shop that comes highly recommended. Feel free to PM me as well.
> Keith
> [email protected]
> +1 604 499 8357


I'll email you sometime today from my business account.


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## boznz (Aug 22, 2018)

Also keen on a spline adaptor for leaf (2015) 

would suggest something simple and generic that anyone can adapt to their own transmission or drive shaft like something in the picture below


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

kiwifiat said:


> I tried a FIAT twin cam 124/125/132/131 clutch plate on the leaf output shaft and it also has too much play. When the FIAT clutch plate is on the FIAT gearbox input shaft it is a snug fit with no decernable play.


Let me say it like this.... 
I put a clutch plate spline into lovejoy coupler with a shrink fit. When coupler cooled down i was barely able to knock splines onto the shaft. Also i had to use the puller to remove it later. Shrink fit contracted splines somewhat so i now get a tight fit whereas there was some play before.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

arber333 said:


> Let me say it like this....
> I put a clutch plate spline into lovejoy coupler with a shrink fit. When coupler cooled down i was barely able to knock splines onto the shaft. Also i had to use the puller to remove it later. Shrink fit contracted splines somewhat so i now get a tight fit whereas there was some play before.



What size/type of Lovejoy coupling did you use? You can shrink a part like this by welding multiple, continues circles on the outside of the part. Your method would probably be better as it is easier to do with less cleanup machining needed. Also, less chance of annealing and warping the part. 

Did you have to do some machining to get the shrink fit?


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

electro wrks said:


> What size/type of Lovejoy coupling did you use? You can shrink a part like this by welding multiple, continues circles on the outside of the part. Your method would probably be better as it is easier to do with less cleanup machining needed. Also, less chance of annealing and warping the part.
> 
> Did you have to do some machining to get the shrink fit?


Yes I had to machine the coupler in a lathe. That was a long and tiresome procedure. Had to triple check dimensions. 
Later I machined the spline part of the clutch on the outside. I heated up the coupler and quickly inserted the splines. 
Later on I tried to weld the edges but I don't think it's necessary. I used countersunk bolts just to position the splines correctly. 
I think i used 130mm coupling with 20mm unmachinned bore.



https://mazdamx3ev.wordpress.com/2018/05/17/sklopka-ven/


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

You can probably get away with using a Lovejoy coupling if your transmission input shaft is well supported by bearings inside the transmission like this: https://youtu.be/9cINT3KH5s0?t=430

Many front engine, rear wheel drive transmissions, where the input shaft is not well supported, would be quickly destroyed if a coupling like the Lovejoy type were used without some kind of pilot bearing or sleeve supporting and aligning the end of the shaft.

Some kind of pilot sleeve supporting the pilot bearing end of the input shaft might still be needed in your build for it to work properly. This is because the coupling may generate some side load on the shaft, and is quite a distance from the first support bearing. This is called an excess overhanging load.


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

electro wrks said:


> You can probably get away with using a Lovejoy coupling if your transmission input shaft is well supported by bearings inside the transmission like this: https://youtu.be/9cINT3KH5s0?t=430
> 
> Many front engine, rear wheel drive transmissions, where the input shaft is not well supported, would be quickly destroyed if a coupling like the Lovejoy type were used without some kind of pilot bearing or sleeve supporting and aligning the end of the shaft.
> 
> Some kind of pilot sleeve supporting the pilot bearing end of the input shaft might still be needed in your build for it to work properly. This is because the coupling may generate some side load on the shaft, and is quite a distance from the first support bearing. This is called an excess overhanging load.



Yes i agree. You would have to create a casing for the transmission shaft support bearing. Usually this is added into transmission in center with the shaft end. Like lathe side load support rest. 

It would have to be made to fit into coupler not onto shaft. 
My transmission shaft is supported by end bearing and also has quite long end bushing (sleeve) to absorb side loading.
EDIT: I did use a generous amount of lithium grease while installin couplings.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

One unknown specification of the splines is the tooth profile. If the spline teeth are like gear teeth, they will have a specified pressure angle that relates to the height/width ratio of the teeth and the curve on the tooth face. I know gears made with different pressure angles are not compatible: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_angle
There are gauges for measuring the different gear diameter pitches and pressure angles: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gear-Tooth...to-5-DP-14-5-Deg-Pressure-Angle-/253111082355

Here's info on splines: http://gearsolutions.com/departments/tooth-tips-a-brief-overview-of-splines/ 
Probably, the splined parts with different pressure angles will work. It's just that their torque transmitting capacity and service life may be reduced. Only time in use will tell if this is a problem. If it is, mainsource in post 90 probably has the best solution with a custom made splined coupling.


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## CUBldr97 (Jan 16, 2020)

mainsource said:


> I recently paid a gear and spline engineer to reverse engineer splines for the 2nd Gen Leaf motor. In other words; I currently have possession of precision spline data documentation for the Nissan Leaf motor power output shaft. We can do a group thing and / or you guys could place me in contact with a gear and spline engineering shop that comes highly recommended. Feel free to PM me as well.
> Keith
> [email protected]
> +1 604 499 8357



Did this pan out? how much for one or two?


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

mainsource said:


> I recently paid a gear and spline engineer to reverse engineer splines for the 2nd Gen Leaf motor. In other words; I currently have possession of precision spline data documentation for the Nissan Leaf motor power output shaft. We can do a group thing and / or you guys could place me in contact with a gear and spline engineering shop that comes highly recommended. Feel free to PM me as well.
> Keith
> [email protected]
> +1 604 499 8357


when i was doing research on this almost 2 years ago, i found a shop that came highly recommended...

they did things the old school way (no cad stuff) IIRC.

if you are still looking to put a group buy together, maybe i can find that shop again?


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

boznz said:


> Also keen on a spline adaptor for leaf (2015)
> 
> would suggest something simple and generic that anyone can adapt to their own transmission or drive shaft like something in the picture below


i agree, this is the type that can be universal enough for most people to use.


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## arber333 (Dec 13, 2010)

A friend used Leaf EM61 motor and had splined lovejoy coupler made at old fashion machine shop. It is a perfect fit. 
This was procedure:
1. He had to bring in the motor and transmission to the workshop. 
2. The technician used sheet metal to make spline teeth negative by hand. Scissors style!
3. Then he used special machine for making grooves to slowly push the metal from the side of the shaft coupler. Well at the time it was just a cylinder of high strength steel.
4. Follows the heat treating.
5. In the end the coupler centers on both sides (transmission has splines also) were press fitted into lovejoy castings. Here material is cast iron and wouldnt withstand heat treatment. 
6. The ends were capped at the center by small turned metal cap to keep the coupler from slide back on the splines.
He said those couplers will never be as strong as the shaft which is fine. If something happens a weak link has to go to save the rest of device.


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## kennybobby (Aug 10, 2012)

Did you guys notice the coupling in the Rx8 thread? see pictures there

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1051103&postcount=3


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

arber333 said:


> A friend used Leaf EM61 motor and had splined lovejoy coupler made at old fashion machine shop. It is a perfect fit.
> This was procedure:
> 1. He had to bring in the motor and transmission to the workshop.
> 2. The technician used sheet metal to make spline teeth negative by hand. Scissors style!
> ...


the shop i had contacted would do it this way as well...too bad Im in California, and the shop was in Tennessee!
Btu, they were the only shop that seemed willing and able to make the coupler when i was actively researching this.

But, now that you mention it, Im sure there's a shop somewhere nearby that can do this sort of work...so I'll have to be on the lookout.


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

kennybobby said:


> Did you guys notice the coupling in the Rx8 thread? see pictures there
> 
> https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1051103&postcount=3


wow, thats beefy! Do you have the link to the whole thread handy so I can look at it?


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

kablammyman said:


> wow, thats beefy! Do you have the link to the whole thread handy so I can look at it?


When someone provides a link like that to a single post, just click the link on that page (at least in the normal web browser view) in the upper right corner... in this case, it says "Thread: Electric RX8 by Voltttan".


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## jambo (Jun 6, 2020)

Hi,

I'm also looking for something to use as a base coupler for the EM57.

There's been a lot of discussion around clutch plates from various vehicles, most notably the Suzuki Samurai.

@Kablammy has summarised what known about the shaft
>> splines: 20 (you already know that)
>> diameter (22mm you know this too)
>> spline width: 1.70mm
>> space between splines: 0.5mm (this was hard to measure, and im not sure if its right)
>> spline length 34.57mm

however, I wanted to minimise the machining, waste and costs associated with purchasing clutch plates as (at least here in New Zealand) they appear quite costly and come with lots of unwanted bits.

to the point: Is there any mechanical reason why something like a "drive shaft slip yoke" wouldn't be a good starter? assuming the correct size match can be found.

eg: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=drive+shaft+slip+yoke


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## mainsource (Oct 30, 2017)

Guys, knock yourselves out experimenting with drives-shaft yokes and such... But when you decide your ready for a clutch disc spline thats a 99% match [100% match IMHO] for the Nissan Leaf output shaft spline, please find it here:

[BTW the part SKU# is: 4304548]
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-4...wagon-sedan-all-w1438cc-1968-71-1500-new.aspx


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## jambo (Jun 6, 2020)

mainsource said:


> Guys, knock yourselves out experimenting with drives-shaft yokes and such... But when you decide your ready for a clutch disc spline thats a 99% match [100% match IMHO] for the Nissan Leaf output shaft spline, please find it here:
> 
> [BTW the part SKU# is: 4304548]
> https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-4...wagon-sedan-all-w1438cc-1968-71-1500-new.aspx


Thanks mainsource, that looks to be a pretty good. If I go that route I'll certainly go with your recommendation. 

I've not given up on the slip yokes yet. mainly since they appear to be designed for the job. ie. slip fit with a long contact length - better to take the forces etc. 

I am/was concerned with rotational speeds and balance. There's a big different (~8x) between motor and axle speeds. Plus I've yet to find one that appears to be a good match. I'm no mechanic and also mostly think/visualise in metric where-as most of the ones I've found appear to be for the american market/vehicles; at least on the sites I've visited so far.


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## mainsource (Oct 30, 2017)

Addendum to my last post: I happen to have the benefit/ luxury of both the retro Fiat and Suzuki Jimny clutch disc centres in my possession. As a result, I feel qualified to make the following statement: After a trial fit of both centres, there is sooo much slop in the fit of the Suzuki spline, that it cannot even be considered as a worthy contestant in this race. I consider it a fool hardy experiment to select same as a solution for the Nissan Leaf output spline! Meanwhile, the Midwest Bayless unit I posted earlier, can be considered a PERFECT [100%] FIT!!


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## mainsource (Oct 30, 2017)

jambo said:


> I've not given up on the slip yokes yet. mainly since they appear to be designed for the job. ie. slip fit with a long contact length - better to take the forces etc.


The length of a typical clutch disk spline is not in question here. This will not be an issue.


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## eBIMMER (Feb 28, 2020)

mainsource said:


> Guys, knock yourselves out experimenting with drives-shaft yokes and such... But when you decide your ready for a clutch disc spline thats a 99% match [100% match IMHO] for the Nissan Leaf output shaft spline, please find it here:
> 
> [BTW the part SKU# is: 4304548]
> https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-4...wagon-sedan-all-w1438cc-1968-71-1500-new.aspx


I just ordered one of these today. I had a pretty thorough design to use a modified Leaf transaxle but rather than destroy it and weld it into an axle assembly, I think it will be easier to cut out this clutch center and use it instead. I'll let y'all know how it goes!


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

mainsource said:


> Meanwhile, the Midwest Bayless unit I posted earlier, can be considered a PERFECT [100%] FIT!!


Once you have the clutch disc attached...Then what? What transmissions would the Fiat plate work with?


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## kablammyman (Mar 16, 2017)

mainsource said:


> Addendum to my last post: I happen to have the benefit/ luxury of both the retro Fiat and Suzuki Jimny clutch disc centres in my possession. As a result, I feel qualified to make the following statement: After a trial fit of both centres, there is sooo much slop in the fit of the Suzuki spline, that it cannot even be considered as a worthy contestant in this race. I consider it a fool hardy experiment to select same as a solution for the Nissan Leaf output spline! Meanwhile, the Midwest Bayless unit I posted earlier, can be considered a PERFECT [100%] FIT!!


Great info, thank you!


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## eBIMMER (Feb 28, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> Once you have the clutch disc attached...Then what? What transmissions would the Fiat plate work with?


What I plan to do is take that Fiat clutch plate to a lathe and cut out the center ("clutch center") then press fit and weld that clutch center into another piece of metal to make my motor coupler. The Fiat clutch center slides over the Nissan Leaf motor output and the other end of the metal tube which houses the Fiat clutch center can be adapted to whatever is going on at the transmission end of the coupler.

It seems that many people take a clutch center designed for their transmission and put that into the other end of the coupler which eliminates the clutch and flywheel. I plan to use a clutch, so the other end of my motor coupler will interface with my flywheel.

I'll post some drawings once I've got the part in-hand to measure and hopefully it helps others to get their parts made too


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## kennybobby (Aug 10, 2012)

Drill out those 3 rivets on the spring plate and you may not need any lathe work.


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## mainsource (Oct 30, 2017)

"_Drill out those 3 rivets on the spring plate and you may not need any lathe work._"

Sanding/ grinding/ drifting seems to work even better!


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## Jared.Kom (Sep 1, 2020)

CanEV makes couplers for electric motors. Why not make an adapter that takes the splined output of the leaf motor and convert it to a keyed brushless shaft? There are adapters that can adapt the face to a warp 9 or Curtis motor face with a bearing, so then a standard CanEV kit would work to mount the leaf to any CanEV supported transmission.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

So, has anybody figured out the Leaf motor spline's engineering specs yet so a proper coupling can be fabbed?


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Negative, but here are some loose buckets of additional info:



Which friction disk to match Leaf splines - openinverter forum





Leaf spline coupler - openinverter forum





Toyota GT86 with Nissan Leaf Motor (Update 11/2022: 160Kw) - openinverter forum


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Thanks.

@Bratitude's drawing is great (it's his so I'll let him post it here), but it doesn't spec the spline info needed for the broaching tool.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

remy_martian said:


> So, has anybody figured out the Leaf motor spline's engineering specs yet so a proper coupling can be fabbed?


Yes, I have. The first batch of couplers is currently being made.
I’ve invested in the correct spline tool.
Outsourced the whole stuff.
Good news is that when I was at the company with a Leaf motor and matching spline piece from the Leaf gearbox they checked that fit and said “well, that will definitely improve.
I’m expecting the couplers to be ready in two weeks so by then I’ll know if it all works out.


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## Bratitude (Jan 23, 2020)

I already have couplers available


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