# 48vdc controller options?



## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

Hi all, I'm just barely getting my feet wet on this whole EV thing, but I've been gathering and scrounging parts for about a year now, and I intend to convert a 1993 Kawasaki ZX600 into an electric, short range (10mi daily round trip) commuter vehicle, and I've got a motor from my work's old forklift, a Presto-Lite, approximately 8" diameter and 10" long, and also was given a bunch of extra parts like the original GE EV-100 controller, and quite a few new spare brushes for the motor, etc, but where I am currently with the project, I'm seeking direction on switching to a used or refurbished Curtis controller from eBay, or a new Kelly. My budget is $250 or less for the controller, so a new Curtis is out of the question. Assuming the bike ends up at 350 pounds, 525lb with pilot, what amperage of controller should I be looking for? Top speed can be approximately 40mph depending on the route I choose to take, I'm sure I'd prefer to be able to hit 55mph, but I'm willing to concede for the sake of not buying gasoline at all next summer if I can help it haha. I've been looking at about 100 different Curtis controllers on eBay, all capable of 48v, and the variety is just making my head spin, so if any experts could chime in and just narrow down my options that would be fantastic! The one Kelly controller I was even considering is this one, but I've heard some bad things about Kelly so please just help me straighten out what I should go with. Thanks in advance!
http://kellycontroller.com/kdz4840124v-48v400apm-with-regen-p-956.html


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

Is there any reason NOT to go with a Curtis 1310? I've found a few of them that are very affordable.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

DaveyG said:


> Is there any reason NOT to go with a Curtis 1310? I've found a few of them that are very affordable.


The Curtis 1310 is a vehicle controller and still requires a motor controller. Also, Kellys suck. Beware of those.

major


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

major said:


> The Curtis 1310 is a vehicle controller and still requires a motor controller. Also, Kellys suck. Beware of those.
> 
> major


Oh so the 1310 doesn't do anything for the speed control? That's stupid haha. So would I be better off with a used 1204 or 1206? What are the pros and cons of each of those?


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

DaveyG said:


> Hi all, I'm just barely getting my feet wet on this whole EV thing, but I've been gathering and scrounging parts for about a year now, and I intend to convert a 1993 Kawasaki ZX600 into an electric, short range (10mi daily round trip) commuter vehicle, and I've got a motor from my work's old forklift, a Presto-Lite, approximately 8" diameter and 10" long, and also was given a bunch of extra parts like the original GE EV-100 controller, and quite a few new spare brushes for the motor, etc, but where I am currently with the project, I'm seeking direction on switching to a used or refurbished Curtis controller from eBay, or a new Kelly. My budget is $250 or less for the controller, so a new Curtis is out of the question. Assuming the bike ends up at 350 pounds, 525lb with pilot, what amperage of controller should I be looking for? Top speed can be approximately 40mph depending on the route I choose to take, I'm sure I'd prefer to be able to hit 55mph, but I'm willing to concede for the sake of not buying gasoline at all next summer if I can help it haha. I've been looking at about 100 different Curtis controllers on eBay, all capable of 48v, and the variety is just making my head spin, so if any experts could chime in and just narrow down my options that would be fantastic! The one Kelly controller I was even considering is this one, but I've heard some bad things about Kelly so please just help me straighten out what I should go with. Thanks in advance!
> http://kellycontroller.com/kdz4840124v-48v400apm-with-regen-p-956.html


Before you start spending money, you should do some bench testing
...to help familiarize yourself with the whole concept


Try to set everything you currently have up, just on a work bench..

Set it up just like it was set up on the forklift.


If you did not make notes or don't remember

Here is a general idea (* just as an example, different systems are different)

On one end have your (2) 12V batteries (wired in series)

...start with an appropriate size fuse attached to the positive (terminal)
...then a cable from there to a main power cut-off switch
...then a cable from there to a solenoid
...then a cable from there to the speed controller positive (+)
...then a cable from there to the motor positive (+)
...then a cable from motor negative (-) back to the negative (-) of your battery pack. 

to complete the circuit


This would help you understand how everything works & would give you an idea of the RPM's that the motor will put out. 


Another issue may be the out put shaft of your motor.

Is it splined or have a key way?
Do you have a plan on attaching a sprocket?


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

It's splined but I'm a machinist so attaching the sprocket won't be a hangup. I have considered doing a bench test, it was originally a 24v setup, with a gigantic lead acid battery, on a stand up forklift. I took quite a few pictures of everything before tearing it apart, but I did tear quite a few pieces off, so the original controller and solenoids are in a pile in a box, and since A) it's stupid heavy and B) it's not very steady throttle on, more like a Hi-Low setup, I figure it's not worth my time to put it all back together. I could just connect it right to a battery and just throw a breaker on it, strapped down to the bench, of course. I've got a Mitutoyo digital handheld tachometer I could hold to the shaft to get a very accurate ideal of rpm at that voltage. Would that info help you guys who know more than I do pick a good controller for my application?


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

DaveyG said:


> It's splined but I'm a machinist so attaching the sprocket won't be a hangup. I have considered doing a bench test, it was originally a 24v setup, with a gigantic lead acid battery, on a stand up forklift. I took quite a few pictures of everything before tearing it apart, but I did tear quite a few pieces off, so the original controller and solenoids are in a pile in a box, and since A) it's stupid heavy and B) it's not very steady throttle on, more like a Hi-Low setup, I figure it's not worth my time to put it all back together. I could just connect it right to a battery and just throw a breaker on it, strapped down to the bench, of course. I've got a Mitutoyo digital handheld tachometer I could hold to the shaft to get a very accurate ideal of rpm at that voltage. Would that info help you guys who know more than I do pick a good controller for my application?


You got a plan for a sprocket, kool

Do you have batteries? (2) -24V, (3) -36V or (4) -48V

Heavy, lead acid batteries are fine for testing
...so is the controller & all the other stuff

Upgrade & lighten up as you go

Because you already have stuff & to gain knowledge I'd say it's worth your time.

You need to know the motors power consumption to properly match a controller to it.

* Knowing the RPM's was for your knowledge
...so you have an idea of what to expect
...when you get it mounted on your bike


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

Ah I see what you're getting at. I will reassemble the GE controller as best I can, but I don't think it will even fit on my bike, let alone the fact that the assembled control is about 100 pounds, but it will work for bench test, and maybe it'll do for some other future project. Long term goal is to use a Chevy Volt 48v pack, but for bench (and preliminary bike) testing I will probably get 4 small 12v lead acid deep cycle batts, or two small 24v ni-mh batts to get started and provide proof of concept before shelling out the cash for the Volt pack.


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Yup, the main thing is that you gain some understanding of everything that's needed & how everything goes together

Keep an open mind

You may be better off selling that old heavy motor & controller

Just so you have an idea as to what's out there

Check out Golden Motors
https://www.goldenmotor.com/

Look on the left & click on "BLDC Motor"

Scroll down to see the motors available

The 3KW is recommended for small to mid size motorcycles
...its a 3,000 watt motor available in 48V, 60V or 72Vdc
...speed: 3,000-5,000rpm
...efficiency: ~90%

For ~$260.00
...& the matching controller is like $260.00 also

So, for a bit over $500.00 you could go with a lot newer technology
...have a "brand new" motor with a matching controller
...& together they only weigh around 20 lbs.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Functional Artist said:


> Yup, the main thing is that you gain some understanding of everything that's needed & how everything goes together
> 
> Keep an open mind
> 
> ...


Hi F.A.

Have you used one of these motors? Have you done business with this company? Do you know people who have, personally? If not, then it seems inappropriate for you to recommend the product to DaveyG.

Golden Motors has been around for a while. You (I) rarely see their products used on conversions, even small ones like bikes or carts. I suspect they are similar to Kelly inasmuch as being overrated, questionable quality and poor service. If you need 3kw, you better get their 10kw rated model. Even then, you're taking a big chance. 

Like everything you read on the interweb: just an opinion. Take it or leave it.

major


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

I'm definitely gonna stick to the motor I have, and probably go with one of the used Curtis 1206HB controllers, they're used on 2010 and newer golf carts, and it seems like they have a quite good track record, as for the motor I have, I'm sure with proper gearing I can achieve what I'm aiming for, it's off of a 1998 Prime Mover forklift, which could do about 15mph, about 300 times per day, and weighed 4,000 pounds, 1,600 of which were from the gigantic lead acid battery, so it ought to have plenty of spunk for my ~400lb bike design if I can find a controller that will transfer the energy how I want haha


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

DaveyG said:


> I'm definitely gonna stick to the motor I have, and probably go with one of the used Curtis 1206HB controllers, they're used on 2010 and newer golf carts, and it seems like they have a quite good track record, as for the motor I have, I'm sure with proper gearing I can achieve what I'm aiming for, it's off of a 1998 Prime Mover forklift, which could do about 15mph, about 300 times per day, and weighed 4,000 pounds, 1,600 of which were from the gigantic lead acid battery, so it ought to have plenty of spunk for my ~400lb bike design if I can find a controller that will transfer the energy how I want haha


Be sure to download the controller manual and study it before buying the controller. The older models like 1204 or 1205 are simple. Newer ones can require extra control circuits, plugs, programming, etc. Haven't used the 1206. Have used several of the 1204/5's. Have also seen and know about good results with Alltrax.

Did you say you have a Prestolite motor? If so, post part # and/or photos. I might know it.

Regards,

major


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

Funny enough it's a Prestolite that has had all of the printing rubbed off of the tag. It's out of a 1998 Prime-Mover forklift, one of the larger items they made, a something-30 or -35, had a lift height of like 18 foot and no front to back extension. I can't seem to find the exact same model for sale anywhere either for some reason... it's a stand up unit but with the full safety cage. RC-30? Something like that. I'll try to upload a pic of the motor and the rubbed off tag. It is about 8" diameter and give or take 10" long, with a splined shaft about 7/8" diameter.


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

https://ibb.co/h1Pou5
https://ibb.co/dkDRgk
Seeing if imgBB hosting works...


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

The important stuff: 

Toledo, Ohio U.S.A. 

has not rubbed off


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

1204 and 1205 don't have quite as high of amperage as the 1206 though I think. But I should probably go with tried and true for my first time since I'm a total newb.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

DaveyG said:


> 1204 and 1205 don't have quite as high of amperage as the 1206 though I think. But I should probably go with tried and true for my first time since I'm a total newb.



I'll say it again. Read the manual first. Understand the exact part number for what you're buying. 1206-xxxx or 1205-xxxx: The x's mean something. And from what I can see, the 1206 series use inductive throttles. Know what that is? Got one? There are multiple forums out there because these controllers are used in golf carts. Read up on them.

Also, it looks like your Prestolite is a 7.2" diameter series wound motor with internal shaft mounted fan. Needs a good cleaning. Again, do some research on cleaning motors. I've gone through it on this forum and there should be info elsewhere on the web.

major


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## DaveyG (Apr 9, 2013)

Thanks for the tips major! I'll download a handful of manuals on the 3 controllers I'm considering currently and do some reading. Yeah, the motor definitely is a bit behind on cleaning, but it came with an extra set of new in box brushes, and it was the right price of free.99! Lol


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

major said:


> Hi F.A.
> 
> Have you used one of these motors? Have you done business with this company? Do you know people who have, personally? If not, then it seems inappropriate for you to recommend the product to DaveyG.
> 
> ...


Sorry, I thought this forum was to discuss different situations, make suggestions & to exchange ideas

I did not intend to "recommend a product" 

I suggested that he "keep an open mind" 

My goal was to suggest that just finding a controller for the super heavy, 20 year old, heavily used motor that he currently has 

...was NOT his only option.


Then, I gave an example of lighter, newer technology 

It was just an example but,

...to get a new motor (48V 3,000W brushless) 
(not a 500 watt or 1,000 watt kids toy)
...& exact matching controller (NO guesswork) 
...that weights ~20 lbs. 
...from a company that's been around awhile

all for ~$500.00


Hmmmm I might "take a big chance"


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