# Alfa 156 Electro



## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

After many months of waiting for a donor, I am finally starting my build.
A 2002 Alfa 156 TwinSpark
Will be fitting Warp 9, and Soliton 1

Thanks to all the guys that assisted me with questions in the ChitChat section.

I removed the Exhaust today. It weighed 20kg.
Next will be to get the Engine out.
Will post some pics.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

The Donor. Actually a very nice looking car.


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## EVisa (Jun 30, 2014)

Nice car 
What are your plans battery-wise?


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi
Definately LiFePo4. Some where between 50-60 cells. Probably 100ah. I might go smaller on the cell capaciy, maybe 70ah, and increase the qty. I'll check the space available, and the budget of course. The batteries and charger will be the last items I purchase.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Got the engine out today. What a job. 
The Guy I bought the car from had blown the motor doing over 200km/h.
I will post some pics. Check out the conrod.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Conrod
Bottom of the sump
front sode of the engine block


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## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

blown indeed. i'd keep that piston on the wall as art.
Alpha was my second choice for donor car. theyre gorgeous. will be watching this thread.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Guys

I'm getting to the first part of my build where I am needing some help, or just confirmation.

1st: It looks like the power steering ran through the condensor of the Aircon, which I have removed. Is this correct, and do you just block it off. My plan is to use the power steering.

2nd: The Cluch & Brake fluid use the same reservoir. I am going clutchless, so also do you guys just block it off. Maybe just on the reservoir if the pipes have independant systems, that just fill from the same bottle.

Any help will be appreciated.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

russatt said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> I'm getting to the first part of my build where I am needing some help, or just confirmation.
> 
> ...



Hi. I am new to this forum and is interested in this build.

I am very knowledgeable in Alfa's especially 156'es and hope I can have a positive input.

I think this model 156 you've got is ideal for this project as most systems on this car runs individually,for instance the abs is not reliant on the EFI system. the speedometer also get its signal from the ABS.

The power steering is not part of the condenser so should not be a problem.

However it has got a coiled cooler in the right front fender. 

I would have blocked the clutch pipe at the reservoir as it will be no use to you.

Are you based in the Eastern Cape? 

Regards.
Gerhard.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Gerhard

Thanks for your help. I removed the coil and aircon pipes at the same time. The 2 pipes are share a bracket that holds them parallel to each other, so I probably didn't notice. I got suspicious when the red ATF fluid ran out of one of the pipes. As an electric vehicle I will probably drive a maximum of 100km at a time if I am lucky, and I know this is a "drivers car", but I wont be driving it hard. Is the cooling of the power steering fluid really necessary.

As for the clutch, I will block it off then.

Yes I am in East London.

I managed to find the signal wire from the throttle location pot. I am very happy because although it has a accelerator cable, this throttle location pot can be used to drive the motor controller. I saves me having to buy a pot box. There was another Alfa 156 that I looked at, that had the "drive by wire" accelerator. It was actually a 1999 model, the V6. I was supprise that the 2.0 TS had a cable, also it being 2002.

When I towed the Alfa, the guy steering it said that the speedometer did not work. I guess because the engine was not running. I know on some vehicles you have to send a signal via the crank sensor, to the ECU, to trick it into thinking that the engine is running, before some guages will work. I would prefer to use RPM guage via the ECU, and not directly to the guage.

How is you knowledge of the wiring of the Twin Spark Engine or ECU.

Where about in SA are you.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Hi I agree the oil cooler on the power steering is not necessary. have deleted them before on some road going cars without any issues.

Assume you are going to find a electric pump for the PS?

I have fitted stand alone EFI systems to these cars before, so had to go through the effort of isolating everything from the standard ECU. 

If memory serves the speed signal is direct from the abs to the gauge.

All the v6 models came with "fly by wire" where as the 2.0 versions had cables up to 2002. Up to then the only 2.0 versions that came with fly by wire was the Selespeeds. You have got a 2001 model I assume that was registered in 2002.. or typically Alfa SA... ex stock.. lol You can retrofit the potentiometer from the V6 on it if you like. Sure you will be able to get one from a scrap yard for a reasonable price. 

When in tow was the abs and the handbrake lights on? If they do not go out you might ave a faulty abs unit or a blown fuse the abs fuse is located in the fuse box on the positive terminal of the battery, it is the one fastened with the size eight bolts not one of the blade type ones.

What are you planning to do with the side shaft (RHS) the one with the halve shaft.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

russatt said:


> Hi Gerhard
> 
> I would prefer to use RPM guage via the ECU, and not directly to the guage.
> 
> ...



The rpm gauge is getting a normal 2 two pulses per revolution signal from the engine ecu. Wich I am sure can easely me imutated by someon with knowledge of electronics.

I am based in Pretoria I've got a Car repair shop specializing in Alfa Romeo.

If all goes to plan I will be going down to Port Alfred December month and would love to see the project!

Where did you source the motor from and at what price?

I will pm you my Phone number number.

Regards
Gerhard.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi

Yes on the PS pump. I think that will be the simplest. I do have the mechanical one, which I could run off the accessory shaft of the drive motor, or I was thinking of turning the origional ps pump with an independant electric motor, and making a direct drive coupler. But the more I think of the time and cost, it will probably work out cheaper, just to buy a 2nd hand electric pump from another vehicle.

I will check the ABS fuse. I dont think my tow guy would have noticed and dash lights, as we were not farmiliar with the car. But if the ABS works, then that solves me having to rewire the Speedometer.

Aah that half shaft. That was the most awkward engine bracket. For now I am thinking of cutting it off just above the shaft, and then somehow bolting it to my motor bracket, which I will plan for when I make it. It looks like it just need to be supported, and shouldnt have too much force on it. Have you modifeid one. Any suggestions.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

What I thought might be easiest is to find a left hand side cup and just extend the right hand side side shaft. The have shaft is only there to equal the side shafts to avoid torque steer. do not think it is needed in your application.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cuzz said:


> The rpm gauge is getting a normal 4 pulses per revolution signal from the engine ecu. Wich I am sure can easely me imutated by someon with knowledge of electronics.
> 
> I am based in Pretoria I've got a Car repair shop specializing in Alfa Romeo.
> 
> ...


Hi
I can do the emulation part for the rpm. I just need to know which wires to use.
Great on the repair shop. I am sure I will need some parts when it comes to road worthy. I have been told the Alfa parts can be hard to come by some times.
Do you deal in any 2nd Hand parts.
You are most welcome to come and look in December. If all goes well I hope to have it on the road by then.
Supprisingly enough, I got the motor from a Guy in JHB. He had a company that was trying to get buy-in to their electric vehicle charging station business plan, but did not take off. It had not been used yet, I got it for 20k. THere is apparently a very powerful electric motor produced in SA for about 30K.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

The problem I see running the ps from the aux shaft is it is not going to work when the car is standing still..?


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cuzz said:


> What I thought might be easiest is to find a left hand side cup and just extend the right hand side side shaft. The have shaft is only there to equal the side shafts to avoid torque steer. do not think it is needed in your application.


Thanks for the shaft extension idea. I will have a closer look when I remove the gearbox, which I hope to get done this weekend. Then next week its the "Big One" Adaptor Plate and coupler. Eish. Skills and experience are limited in a small town. But I know a guy, who knows a guy. (who works with a cnc machine)


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cuzz said:


> The problem I see running the ps from the aux shaft is it is not going to work when the car is standing still..?


Yes good point. I had forgotten about that already. Soo excited. I am going to phone a scrap yard now, to see about electric ps pump.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Taco output is a Brown white wire from the ecu. Pin 2 on the loom going from the ecu to the body.

I have some second hand spares and can help you with leads where to source parts from etc.

20 k is really not bad.. Do you have more info on the other locally produced motors?

From what I have seen so far it is going to be insanely expensive to import a kit.. A freind of mine deals with battery's,want to hear from him what I can get the battery's for,locally.

He maintain Golf cars so I am sure he will be able to give some insight.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

russatt said:


> Thanks for the shaft extension idea. I will have a closer look when I remove the gearbox, which I hope to get done this weekend. Then next week its the "Big One" Adaptor Plate and coupler. Eish. Skills and experience are limited in a small town. But I know a guy, who knows a guy. (who works with a cnc machine)



You removed the engine without the gearbox...

No wonder you had a hard time lol!

Usually I drop them as a unit..

Yes the adapter plate is going to be a challenge.. must post pics!!!

Let me know if you need help from this side will be glad to assist!


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cuzz said:


> Taco output is a Brown white wire from the ecu. Pin 2 on the loom going from the ecu to the body.
> 
> I have some second hand spares and can help you with leads where to source parts from etc.
> 
> ...


I'll look through my emails to see if there was some info on the motor manufacturer.
I am going to use LiFePo batteries. Very expensive. Probably will cost about 70k. The Rand/$ is not on our side at the moment. The Guy I bought the motor from had imported it when the exchange rate was about R7/$


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Not sure the pm went through. let me know!

I've got to get to work.. lol


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cuzz said:


> You removed the engine without the gearbox...
> 
> No wonder you had a hard time lol!
> 
> ...


Ja. Had to remove the engine in my garage at home. We had to hoist it out. Glad it is done, and glad nobody got injured.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

russatt said:


> I'll look through my emails to see if there was some info on the motor manufacturer.
> I am going to use LiFePo batteries. Very expensive. Probably will cost about 70k. The Rand/$ is not on our side at the moment. The Guy I bought the motor from had imported it when the exchange rate was about R7/$


LiFePo.. Not saying much to me at this stage lol. Is it lithium battery's? How many sells are you planning to use? and what is the voltage rating etc,per sell?

I will try to find out if it can be sourced locally for a bit cheaper..

Yes the rand exchange are really killing us @ this stage..


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

russatt said:


> Ja. Had to remove the engine in my garage at home. We had to hoist it out. Glad it is done, and glad nobody got injured.


Glad to hear.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cuzz said:


> Not sure the pm went through. let me know!
> 
> I've got to get to work.. lol


Hi Yes got it thanks. I will give you a ring when I do the wiring.
Do you have an email address you could pm


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cuzz said:


> LiFePo.. Not saying much to me at this stage lol. Is it lithium battery's? How many sells are you planning to use? and what is the voltage rating etc,per sell?
> 
> I will try to find out if it can be sourced locally for a bit cheaper..
> 
> Yes the rand exchange are really killing us @ this stage..


Yes it is Lithium. Spefically suited for electric vehicles. There is a sponsored advertisment that should be flashing down the right side of your screen. At the bottom of the sponsored ad's.
3.2v per cell. will need 50-60 cells, around 100ah.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

russatt said:


> Yes it is Lithium. Spefically suited for electric vehicles. There is a sponsored advertisment that should be flashing down the right side of your screen. At the bottom of the sponsored ad's.
> 3.2v per cell. will need 50-60 cells, around 100ah.



Ok i see it now.. 

will pm my mail address!


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Cuzz

Before I cause myself unnecessary pain and suffering, I thought I best ask for your advice. I am going to remove the gearbox next.
What is the easiest way to get it out. Do the drive shafts just pull out.
Will I need to loosen one of the CV's first, or will the shafts just pull out when the gearbox drops down.

Thanks in advance.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

russatt said:


> Hi Cuzz
> 
> Before I cause myself unnecessary pain and suffering, I thought I best ask for your advice. I am going to remove the gearbox next.
> What is the easiest way to get it out. Do the drive shafts just pull out.
> ...


Hi yes you will be able to pull the side shafts from the gearbox.

Eventually you will have to loosen the cap screws an separate the cv joints so it is all the same.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Ok Thanks for the help. 
My background is Renewable energy, IT and some electronics. I am mechanically minded though, as my father is a retired motor mechanic so I grew up around tools, and cars. I must say I have found the mechanical work to be a lot harder than it looks. Also physical. my dad laughs at the cuts an bruises on my hands from pulling the engine out etc. He says try doing it for 50 years.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

The cuts and bruises will get less.... How did it go? Did you manage to get the box out?


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi. It ended up being a working weekend for me so didn't even get to touch the Alfa.
I am going to pull the box out on Tuesday.
I wanted to asked you, on the gearbox, on the hydraulic's for the release bearing. If I remove it, is there a seal between it and the geabox oil inside, as in all the oil will run out. I would like to remove what ever is not needed, but I dont want to disturb a seal unnecessarily.
I have attached a pic


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Hi yes the input shaft oil seal is part of the concentric slave.

The previews models used a thrust bearing guide with a seal in it,think it will be cheaper getting one of them if you want to change the seal.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Cuzz
Pulling the G-box out. I have removed the long shaft. It just pulled out. Have loosened all the gearbox mounts. I am trying to pull the G-box away from the short side out. (Haven't loosend the cap screws on the cv). Trying not to disturb things unnecessarily. It doesnt feel like it pulls out. If I remove cap screws it will pop put easily, but hoping to avoid that if possible. Difficult to get in there.

When I get the box loose, I was going to twist it a bit so I can see if there are bolts that I can undo and remove the gear linkage mechanism in one go. 
If you are around, could you comment if I am on the right track here.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Hi The short shaft got a retaining clip inside the box. If you yank it it will pull out to make it easier you can use a crowbar to pull it from the box.

The selector cables you will have to remove the retaining clips from the cable sleeve (plate clips you just pull them out). The cables pop off at the joints connecting to the selector arms.

Hope this helps.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Hi The short shaft got a retaining clip inside the box. If you yank it it will pull out to make it easier you can use a crowbar to pull it from the box.

The selector cables you will have to remove the retaining clips from the cable sleeve (plate clips you just pull them out). The cables pop off at the joints connecting to the selector arms.

Hope this helps.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi
Got it out.
Had to loosen the cap screws on the short side. I used the handle of my trolley jack for leverage on the allen key. Took the battery and tray out so I could at least see a little bit. 
All you Motor Mechanics out there "You have my respect"


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Glad you have got it out!


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Guys

I am going to make my adaptor plate next. I was thinking of leaving the top of the plate square, and making a square plate on the other end of the motor, and then a plate over the top, to mount the controller on. I would do it all in Aluminium.

I have a Warp 9 and Soliton 1. So the extra plates would act as a heatsink as well. I intend using the existing radiator of the vehicle and pump coolant through the controller.

So what I am asking is which component generally gets hotter. The motor or controller, because sharing a heatsink, they will effect each other.
Guys with experience, is this a good or bad idea. 
Excuse the simple pic attached.


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## esoneson (Sep 1, 2008)

Why would you expose your controller to variable high frequency vibrations? 
Seems to me you would want to isolate your controller from such abuse......not attach it right to the source. 
Or is there some hidden benefit I am not seeing?


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi
It would be a nice solid mounting surface, and the motor cables would be very short for low inteference.
The attached pic is out of the controllers manual. The controller is mounted to the side of the motor mount.


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

russatt said:


> I have a Warp 9 and Soliton 1. So the extra plates would act as a heatsink as well. I intend using the existing radiator of the vehicle and pump coolant through the controller.
> 
> So what I am asking is which component generally gets hotter. The motor or controller, because sharing a heatsink, they will effect each other.
> Guys with experience, is this a good or bad idea.
> Excuse the simple pic attached.


The motor would generate more heat than the Soliton 1, due to the fact that more losses occur in the motor. The heat will move up into the Soliton. 

However, the motor and controller generally have a combined efficiency of approximate 65% - 85%, so losses during normal driving only amount to < 20kw worst case. Your normal radiator is designed for >90 kw (depending on a lot of factors), so using the radiator is overkill.

If you have a quick look through the various builds, you will notice that most have their radiators removed. Using an oil cooler should be sufficient for normal use. Just remember to use a circulating pump. Sizing the pump correctly will be important to you, as in your case you would want flow closer to the maximum allowed by the Soliton 1. Inside the manual there is a minimum and maximum flowrate for coolant.

I hope this helps a little

Dawid


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

As you are going to use the Soliton's liquid cooling I would recommend rubber mounting it to the plate that mounts the motor
That will isolate any vibrations from the motor/gearbox


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Thanks Guys. Your responses have helped me.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Cuzz

Could you help me with this. These look like vac pipes. They run under the right fender, and from there one runs down along side the fuel line to the petrol tank. What was/is its purpose. Can I just cut them off.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Hi.

Yes you can remove all of it. if you follow the line you will find a carbon canister in the right front fender. this system is there to recycle gas fumes from the petrol tank to the intake manifold. No use to you..lol


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cuzz said:


> Hi.
> 
> Yes you can remove all of it. if you follow the line you will find a carbon canister in the right front fender. this system is there to recycle gas fumes from the petrol tank to the intake manifold. No use to you..lol


Thanks Cuzz. I will remove them when I remove the fuel tank.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Cuzz
I have been going through the wires to the ECU. Will I be able to do this conversion without the ECU. All I really need is Speedo, RPM and Brakes.

I have this info on the wiring. I have tested "A8, Supply controlled by the ignition " and I get 12v. But I have tried to bridge A12 with A8 to get the engine light on the dash to come on but nothing. I have also tried it with A29 earthed to the chassis.

Am I missing something
M1.5.5 fuel injection-ignition control unit 
Pin-out 
A1, Flow meter sensor supply 
A2, Rev counter signal 
A3, Fuel pump relay feed 
A4, Cooling fan 2nd speed contactor control 
A5, N.C. 
A6, N.C. 
A7, Main relay feed 
A8, Supply controlled by the ignition 
A9, Main relay feed 
A10, N.C. 
A11, Diagnostic connection (K line) 
A12, Check Engine warning light 
A13, Cooling fan 1st speed contactor control 
A14, N.C. 
A15, N.C. 
A16, Alfa Romeo CODE connection 
A17, Supply (main relay) 
A18, Direct supply (battery) 
A19, Air conditioner compressor relay feed 
A20, Flow meter signal 
A21, N.C. 
A22, N.C. 
A23, N.C. 
A24, N.C. 
A25, N.C. 
A26, N.C. 
A27, Speedometer sensor signal 
A28, N.C. 
A29, Sensor earth 
A30, Air temperature sensor signal 
A31, Air conditioning request switch 
A32, N.C. 
A33, N.C. 
A34, Request to switch on fan 1st speed 
A35, Request to switch on fan 2nd speed 
A36, N.C. 
A37, N.C. 
A38, N.C.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

hi most outputs to sensors are switched negative that is why the engine light did not switch on.

Also the pulse input on the rev counter is two pulses per revolution not 4 was not thinking straight when I said 4. Also a negative pulse.

The speedo should work as is.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Thanks I will give it another go.
What I am doing temporarily just to see if I am on the right track is a have a voltage step down board. 12v from the cars main supply input, and it outputs a voltage I can very on the other side with a + and -. so I am going to try and connect the neg wire to the ecu plug wires that go to the car side Socket A, and see if I can get something to work.

This other plug in the pic. Do you know what it is connected to on the vehicle side.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

That plug is for the starter solenoid Alternator pilot light oil pressure etc.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Ok Thanks. Probably dont need it.
I just got the Engine warning light to come on, sending it a -3v. Thanks for the negative voltage tip. I probably would have tried in vain for days doing all the right things but with +v. Do you know what the correct voltage should be on those pins. I know computers generally use 3v or 5v. I turned the voltage right down to 1.2v and the engine light still stayed on.
I am going to try the rpm now.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

A clean -12v should be ok for the engine light.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Remembered now that connector on your car is not for the starter etc. only on the later models. but do not think you will need it though. If memory serves it supply power to injectors etc.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Send you a bit of a diagram do not know if it will be of more assistance.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

I had a meeting the other night with the guy that is going to design my coupler. Instead or re-using the clutch centre, he suggested that they machine a spline into the gearbox end of the coupler and temper/harden it to the same spec as the origional spline. They can also balance the coupler, at a price obviously.

Is this the right way to go. Also what should the diameter of the coupler be for the correct balance of strength and weight.
Any help will be appreciated.


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## Studebaker (Jan 22, 2012)

russatt said:


> Is this the right way to go.



I’d say it isn’t. In modern FWD gearboxes primary and main shaft comes as one piece. It has gears cut directly on it.










You don’t want to expose those to any heat treatment. Taking the gearbox apart and putting it back together isn’t that easy either. Guy who suggests putting its main shaft into furnace certainly doesn’t have a clue how gearbox is build, so I wouldn’t trust him to do it. 
If you don’t want to use clutch spline, you can source the hub with matching spline. Even machining custom hub, would be way better way to go. Cost and labour wise


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Do not think he meant removing to input shaft and modifying it. think he meant making a coupler with splines that fit onto the input shaft.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Studebaker

I might not have explained my idea correctly as I am a first timer. My first plan was to re-use the clutch spline and bolt or weld it onto the coupler on the gbox end, but the guys say they can machine an identical spline into that end similar to the center of pic 2.
I was wondering if that is how it is done, or is it better to use the origional spline for some reason, or perhaps have 2 halves, that bolt together.


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## Studebaker (Jan 22, 2012)

Oh, sorry. I misread it. My mistake. 

If your guy can broach spline to fit clutch shaft , heat treat it, balance it…. let him do it. That’s actually, how it’s supposed to be done.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Ok Thanks.
I suppose it will all come down to budget. He still has to give me a price.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

I have been looking for a Electric Power Steering pump. I found this one from a VW Polo. It has 2 additional electrical sockets, other than to power the pump. Does anyone know what they are for.

Was there perhaps a speed controller on the car.
Can I just run the pump permamently on.
How much current do they draw.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

I'm sure you can run it permanently on just do not know how long it is going to last.. Have seen race cars with pumps running constantly.


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## eldis (Sep 3, 2013)

russatt said:


> I have been looking for a Electric Power Steering pump. I found this one from a VW Polo. It has 2 additional electrical sockets, other than to power the pump. Does anyone know what they are for.


Try this and let me know if it worked for you. If it does not work, you will need to figure out the CAN command (connections are PWR=12V, IGCT=12V and GND). 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8rnw4jxc7uxdkcw/Polo pump.pdf
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5l6fb6r8ymhekm6/Polo pump2.pdf


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

Any progress?


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Eldis thanks very much for the steering info. I will definately make use of it when I get the pump. I will send the pump a simulated pwm signal as if from the powersteering sensor. Using the vehicle speed in off setting the pump speed should be fine. The Speed at which the steering wheel is being turned will get a bit tricky. I will have to try and make a sensor.

Safety wise, when travelling fast, the pump is slowed down, then you try and turn the steering wheel fast to swerve for something, could be scary.

I could use a "Gyroscope" type of sensor that would sense cornering speed "G's" and calibrate a reading for a sudden increase and then increase the pump speed by that factor.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Cuzz

My first contact for making the coupler. His workshop burned down a while ago and he is no longer in operation. I have contacted 2 other guys, but they have not come back to me yet. "Small town blues"

If all else fails I will buy a similar coupler to the one in the pic, and somehow attach the clutch spline to it. 

Other than waiting, I have found the correct pins to use on the origional throttle position sensor, to use its variable voltage output, to send to my controller. It has a low of 1.4v and high of 4.5v if given a 12v input.
Saves about $165 as I was going to buy the Evnetics pot box.

I have received my Fuse, Airpax breaker and crash sensor from KTA Services. They were very helpful, and service was very good.
Heavy duty stuff!!


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

I managed to find another engineering works willing to make the coupler. The guys "Spark Eroder" machine is a bit old he said, so we opted to make the coupler in 2 halves. Spline on one end and keyway on the other, and will bolt the 2 halves together. I will post pics when it is complete.

Also my brake vac pump is waiting for me at the post office, and a volvo electric power steering pump is on the was from a scrap dealer out of town. After ordering the Volvo pump I read in another thread on this forum that it will be a challenge to control the speed with a 3rd party controller as it has a brushless motor with built in controller that is fed via the can bus. I'll open it up and check it out. It is from a 2004 S40.

I have a few questions about a charger while I am waiting, which I will put in a seperate post.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

I am considering the EMW Juice Box Base Kit.
Any of you guys that are using one, please could you give your comments on it. I will be using LiFePo batteries. Probably about 50 cells.

http://www.emotorwerks.com/products...-open-source-level-2-15kw-ev-charging-station


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

russatt said:


> Hi
> It would be a nice solid mounting surface, and the motor cables would be very short for low inteference.
> The attached pic is out of the controllers manual. The controller is mounted to the side of the motor mount.


Yo, just saw this... note that the controller floats on rubber vibration dampeners and is not solidly attached to the motor in that pic from the manual. Also, it really isn't ideal to have hot air from the motor blow directly onto the controller; liquid cooling of the controller will absolutely be required if you do (otherwise you can literally heat up the controller so much it shuts down).


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi

Thanks for the input. I agree and the more I have thought about it, it was a bad idea. I will definately have the engine mountings and the controller and battery brackets independant of each other.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Guys. In a post 1 page back I asked if anyone had some comments on the EMW Juice Box. I mailed them a few questions and found out that the "High Power Level 2 Charging Station" is not a stand alone charger. It is just a Power Supply.

I was very keen on Paying $250 for a 60A charger.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Tesseract said:


> Yo, just saw this... note that the controller floats on rubber vibration dampeners and is not solidly attached to the motor in that pic from the manual. Also, it really isn't ideal to have hot air from the motor blow directly onto the controller; liquid cooling of the controller will absolutely be required if you do (otherwise you can literally heat up the controller so much it shuts down).


Hi Tesseract

Regarding the Soliton 1. The manual says that the required flow rate for the liquid cooling is 4-7 L/min. I was considering using the Alfa's origional radiator, with a small circulation pump. One comment was that it is an overkill, as combustion engine radiators are made for cooling 90Kwatts and the EV Efficiency losses under normal driving will be about 20Kwatts which I understand.

Since I have the thing, and would have to make or purchase something smaller, isnt it better to have more cooling on the controller, or is there a maximum amount of cooling the liquid system can do. The manual says every 10C drop in temp doubles the life of electrical components.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Got my Volvo Power Steering pump today. Wired it up and gave it a quick spin. Will post a quick video clip just now. Thanks to the Volvo thread by Drywaller, I wired it up as they suggested, and if it werent for their posts I would of thought it did not work or the wiring was wrong as there is about a 2 second delay before the motor spins. Obviously the processor checks for a can bus signal first, doesn't get, and then goes into a auxillary mode or something. It spins up, and then as there is no pressure the motor starts to slow down.

It is quite a lot bigger than I expected.

Can Anyone confirm for me where the pipes go.
A-Filler Bottle
B-Steering Return hose
C-Steering input hose


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Power Steering Pump Test video


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

russatt said:


> Hi Tesseract
> 
> Regarding the Soliton 1. The manual says that the required flow rate for the liquid cooling is 4-7 L/min. I was considering using the Alfa's origional radiator, with a small circulation pump. One comment was that it is an overkill, as combustion engine radiators are made for cooling 90Kwatts and the EV Efficiency losses under normal driving will be about 20Kwatts which I understand.


Losses from the Soliton1 controller alone will rarely exceed 2kW (add in the losses from the motor and you might occasionally hit 20kW total), so, yes, the OEM radiator is extreme overkill. That said, if your pump can only manage a measly flow rate of coolant through the controller it won't matter how big the radiator is... These things are not independent, in other words. The flow rate recommendation stands *regardless* of how large the radiator is. The reason why is because the flow rate determines the local temperature rise in the controller's liquid cooling loop; the radiator area/air flow determine its temperature rise and that of the coolant exiting it.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Thaks for the quick reply. I understand.
Is the 7L/min flow rate the maxium allowed or can I go higher.


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

russatt said:


> Thaks for the quick reply. I understand.
> Is the 7L/min flow rate the maxium allowed or can I go higher.


You know, that's not something I really tested, but generally speaking, the problem with too high a flow rate is that it causes severe turbulence, which then leads to hot spots in the cooling loop. Thus I would err on the side of too low a flow rate. Even 2lpm (~0.5gpm) should do the job for all but the most spirited driving. After all, it is highly unlikely that your *motor* can take the full output of a Soliton1 continuously...


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Thanks. I have a small pump of 4L/min. I might try and use the condensor radiator from the Aircon. It is smaller. just not sure if it will be happy with water in it.


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## Cuzz (Jul 10, 2014)

AC condenser will be fine with coolant.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Tesseract said:


> You know, that's not something I really tested, but generally speaking, the problem with too high a flow rate is that it causes severe turbulence, which then leads to hot spots in the cooling loop. Thus I would err on the side of too low a flow rate. Even 2lpm (~0.5gpm) should do the job for all but the most spirited driving. After all, it is highly unlikely that your *motor* can take the full output of a Soliton1 continuously...


Hi Tesseract

I have another controller question. Will the throttle input accept a voltage input from a PWM voltage regulator 0-5v.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Cuzz

Will it be ok with a 50/50 water and coolant mix


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

russatt said:


> Hi Tesseract
> 
> I have another controller question. Will the throttle input accept a voltage input from a PWM voltage regulator 0-5v.


If it is heavily filtered, sure. Like with a fc of below 10Hz.

That said, the throttle signal is one of those "safety critical" things that you really shouldn't muck about with. Think very carefully about whatever it is you intend to do...


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi

I was thinking of a Cruize Control. But Safety first. Thats why I am asking.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

The Engineering Works is Cutting the Spline end of my Coupler today !!!


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Got my coupler back yesterday. All looks good.
Have ordered the Aluminium for the adaptor plate will get it next week.
Check out the pics


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

Tesseract- turbulence helps remove heat. A higher flow will remove heat better and reduce rather than increase hotspots. It will also waste pump energy because the pressure drop increases with the square of the flowrate, which also makes leakage or burst tubes more likely too. A higher than necessary flow may actually make the cooling system more likely to fail prematurely as a result.


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## alex156jtd (Sep 11, 2014)

hi , im so glad i found this thread , i planing to do the same thing but mine is a diesel 156 .
is it posible to pm me with your phone number i have a few questions and may be i come round have a look how your car turn out i live in london too
thanks


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

alex156jtd said:


> hi , im so glad i found this thread , i planing to do the same thing but mine is a diesel 156 .
> is it posible to pm me with your phone number i have a few questions and may be i come round have a look how your car turn out i live in london too
> thanks


Hi Alex

I am in East London, South Africa. You are welcome to PM me anytime so as to not clutter this thread. I will post any findings that might be helpful to others as we go.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

I finally got my Adaptor plate back. So far I have spent more time waiting than working, but ready to go flat out now. Coupled it all up just to check, last night.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Cupler looks nice and balanced.
Video


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Don't worry about the noise. Gearbox is dry.
Video


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hey Guys
Just a Thought. Wouldn't ATF fluid be more efficient in the gearbox, instead of the much thicker std gearbox oil. The gear changes will be minimal compared to what the gearbox was designed for origionally, and ATF. It works for automatic gearboxes. Could someone explain the difference, and will it work.


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

ATF is hydraulic fluid. Manual transmission oil is 90 weight gear oil. There is no comparison in the lubricity of the two. One is designed to transmit power in a fluidic coupling, while the other is designed to protect gears from wear. Each device is designed with a particular oil in mind, which I'm sure affects both gear and bearing design.

Can you get by with a lighter weight oil in a manual transmission or differential? Sure- but it has to have an effect on wear life. It would also probably need to be changed more often than never, which is the frequency with which most people find necessary to change manual tranny or differential oil. Will that be a significant reduction in life? You'd need to ask someone who designs gearboxes and who understands tribology way better than I do.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Moltenmetal said:


> ATF is hydraulic fluid. Manual transmission oil is 90 weight gear oil. There is no comparison in the lubricity of the two. One is designed to transmit power in a fluidic coupling, while the other is designed to protect gears from wear. Each device is designed with a particular oil in mind, which I'm sure affects both gear and bearing design.
> 
> Can you get by with a lighter weight oil in a manual transmission or differential? Sure- but it has to have an effect on wear life. It would also probably need to be changed more often than never, which is the frequency with which most people find necessary to change manual tranny or differential oil. Will that be a significant reduction in life? You'd need to ask someone who designs gearboxes and who understands tribology way better than I do.


Thanks for the info. I will probably just stick to the recomended gearbox oil. Just another quick tech question. Does an automatic gearbox seperately use both ATF fluid for the hydraulics, and gearbox oil to lubricate the gears.


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

I don't know but suspect not. But the gearing in that case would be designed for the lighter weight oil.


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## samwichse (Jan 28, 2012)

russatt said:


> Thanks for the info. I will probably just stick to the recomended gearbox oil. Just another quick tech question. Does an automatic gearbox seperately use both ATF fluid for the hydraulics, and gearbox oil to lubricate the gears.


This is the way the old vw type 3 automatic worked... ATF on the wetted clutches, and 90 weight in the diff. Two different fluids in one tranny.

I think some Audis also used this same basic transmission design into the early 80s.

Don't know of any modern automatics like that though.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

*Progress*

Got the motor fitted tonight.
No thanks to any help from my 2 Assistants


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

LOL! One of my cats likes to prowl around the car while I'm working on it and sharpens his claws on the front tires...

Build is looking good there!


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Some Progress.
Made my engine mount adaptations, and managed to reverse out of the garage and back in using the original 12v battery of the Alfa. Everything seems fine.

short video clip

I also got my Volvo electric power steering pump running. I draws about 6amp when steering is stationery, and about 15-20 amps when turning the steering and car is stationery, so looks like it should work fine without having to hack the canbus signal. I haven't driven the car with it running, but if feels nice and smooth.

I have made a bracket to fit the brake vacuum on next to the power steering pump.

I am busy with the brakets to mount the motor controller on. I should be finished with that next week, and will have it galvanized. So hopefully buy the end of the month I should have engine conversion complete, then it is just batteries and battery boxes


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Finally some more progress. Have been out of action for a while.
Made the first battery box. It will hold 39 cells.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Motor cooling Question.
Can anyone tell me what the normal Airflow rate is for the Warp 9. As in what volume of air would it normally draw in using its internal fan blade at any rpm if you know.

Also what is a safe driving temperature for the motor.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Tesseract said:


> If it is heavily filtered, sure. Like with a fc of below 10Hz.
> 
> That said, the throttle signal is one of those "safety critical" things that you really shouldn't muck about with. Think very carefully about whatever it is you intend to do...


Hi. I have made some good progress with my build.
I have been doing a few road tests, and am getting an error from the controller when at 100% throttle. now and again. Any help would be appreciated. I don't have anything setup to block the throttle. Do you know for what reason the Soliton would do it on its own.
69 Running, Throttle blocked


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

russatt said:


> Hi. I have made some good progress with my build.
> I have been doing a few road tests, and am getting an error from the controller when at 100% throttle. now and again. Any help would be appreciated. I don't have anything setup to block the throttle. Do you know for what reason the Soliton would do it on its own.
> 69 Running, Throttle blocked


Send an email to Evnetics tech support with a log file showing the problem (it looks like you already have one) and save the controller web page as an html file and attach that as well.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Thanks Will do.


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

russatt said:


> Thanks Will do.


Still don't see an email from you, but I remembered you asking a troubling question awhile ago about whether you could feed a 0-5V PWM signal to the throttle input.... Note that you have to calibrate the minimum and maximum throttle voltages in the controller and then if the signal strays outside of that range you will get a blocked or not at zero position error.

So you need to tell me what you are using for a throttle signal; if it isn't a "3-wire" throttle position transducer (e.g. - like we sell, or like what is commonly used in many OEM vehicles) then I'm afraid you are totally on your own here.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi. Yes I was thinking of making a cruise control app.
I am running in Performance mode now, and have disabled all other inputs and outputs that I am not using. So far so good.
I will actually try the quiet mode again, with the settings as they are just to see if that was the problem.
It is possible that it was the throttle over voltage because I am using the Alfa's throttle position sensor as my throttle pot, and the voltage might not be perfectly consistent. I did also re calibrate the throttle before I tested.

Thanks for the reply.
It is an awesome controller.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi

I am busy writing some code for an Arduino to read the UDP packets from the Soliton. So far I am definitely picking up packets but the contents don't seem to correspond to the packet breakdown in the loggerprotocal.txt.

Do you have any experience with the UDP or could you interpret one of the packets.

00-161006032-90-126020-26000000000321598100-2430000000-17-66-1061-87-201-17-660080-10610000000000


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

More Progress


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

russatt said:


> Hi
> 
> I am busy writing some code for an Arduino to read the UDP packets from the Soliton. So far I am definitely picking up packets but the contents don't seem to correspond to the packet breakdown in the loggerprotocal.txt.
> 
> ...


Nope, sorry - I just designed the hardware and can't help you at all except to say that other people have successfully used the UDP datastream so the problem is almost certainly your interpretation of it (perhaps you have your Endian mixed up?).

That said, understand that we consider the logger protocol description a "freebie" to our customers and thus it is more or less an unsupported feature.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Tesseract said:


> Nope, sorry - I just designed the hardware and can't help you at all except to say that other people have successfully used the UDP datastream so the problem is almost certainly your interpretation of it (perhaps you have your Endian mixed up?).
> 
> That said, understand that we consider the logger protocol description a "freebie" to our customers and thus it is more or less an unsupported feature.


No problem. I will figure it out. I am sure it is just something small on my side like an invalid data type. I only started with it last night. I was just looking for a short cut.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Progress.
Finished hacking the instruments.
Wires up sensors, relays and fuses.
All looking Neat. Still no help from my assistants.

Starting to look like an Alfa again.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Not sure if anyone is still following my build. I haven't posted anything for a while.

I passed Roadworthy, and managed to get all of my engine clearance certificates, and lastly a licence disk. So the Alfa is now street legal.

I am done with my road tests and have decided to build an additional battery box to go under the car where the fuel tank used to be. I have decided to use a total of 83 60/ah LiFePo4 cells. This will give me the range I need on my worst days travelling plus 15km.

I am done building the battery box, and have all the cells, so now its just the final assembly and many wires for the BMS. I hope to have all of the cells in over the next 2 weeks.

Will post some pics.

I have finished all of the Logic and the controller for my charger. I am just waiting for the capacitors and will assemble it soon.

I am going to build my own BMS as well. I am hoping to get a local electronics company to populate the PCB for me with surface mount components, depending on the cost. I just cant face having to manually solder about 30 points per cell x 83 cells +- 2500 solder points.


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## Baratong (Nov 29, 2012)

I've enjoyed your thread. It's great seeing your custom electronics build. Do you have some pics to share of the final completed build?

On the BMS, you might want to go all SMD and get yourself a reflow oven
... can be had for ~$200 on ebay. Have some solder paste stencils cut and it goes real quick.

I hear you on the manual soldering! Years ago I started a business on a shoestring budget selling a product. After a few samples sent out I got an order for 1000 pieces. I still remember soldering those things up. I had some help from my kids stuffing the boards and I soldered.... the whole operation took about 9minutes per board. About a month later it was complete, but it was a whole lot of manual labor I wouldn't want to repeat again.

edit: The circuit board had 131 solder points.. it was old-school through-hole tech (mid 1990's) so not particularly challenging -- just a lot.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi

I'll see what I can find. I was so eager to get the car to road worthy I didn't take any pics. I have the bonnet and bumper off again. All the battery boxes out, but I will take some as I put everything back.

I made a fairly neat LCD panel, on the dash. Will take pic tomorrow.

I soldered 24 x 8pin plugs for the battery box/BMS and I am pretty done. I set a goal to do 4 every evening. Was simple but frustrating to get to the pins so close together. 1000 Pieces. No way


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## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

I've enjoyed reading your build. 
Just a comment, i think your 'assistants' have been a great help, they got that engine purring!
(sorry, i couldnt resist!)


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Congratulations on the roadworthy.


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

I am *still* enjoying your build. despite your major achievement (congratulations!) - but you needed to post more pictures, or else how was I supposed to properly and vicariously enjoy your suffering?!

Your assistants are like mine, or should I say most of mine. I have two very much like yours- they more or less came out for a sniff and to sharpen their claws on the tires. The third is less furry and much more helpful!


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

More Progress. Got the rear battery box in. What a mission. Had to lever it up bit by bit with small pieces of wood, until I could get the jack under it.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Still a long way to go. I have another box in the front that takes 39cells, and another one above it with 20 cells.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

DawidvC said:


> Congratulations on the roadworthy.


Thanks. I see you are also from SA.


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Ja, I live in good old Gansters Paradise. My son-in-law works in East-London, and I have grown to love that place. Can't wait to see the kids again.

There are a couple of South-Africans on this forum, but no-one really very active. It is nice to see someone here getting his car roadworthy.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

More progress. Finished the bracket that secures the cables running under the car to the rear battery box. Also finished the wiring of the front lower battery box.
Will do the Front Upper battery box this weekend.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Progress Update.

Finally finished the front upper battery box. So all batteries in place and wired. I also relocated the Fuse and breaker to the inside of the battery box. Before I had it in a fibreglass box against the firewall, so that box is now free for some electronic gadgets.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

I finally put the car together. There was a Car Show at a local school and they asked if I would have it ready in time to put it on show. Lots of late nights but it is nice to have the car assembled.

It is not 100% complete as I still need to finish the charger and fit it on board, and then do the BMS. I don't think a project like this is ever complete as there is always something to add or improve on.

The Car Show went very well. I was really worried driving the car there as I hadn't driven or even tested it with all the 300 volts of battery but had no hassles. The participants and public spectators were really great. They showed lots of interest and asked lots of questions pretty much on the go for the whole day. It is the first EV conversion in my town, so was quite an attraction.

I will post some pics in next blog.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Pics of the Car Show.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

The Alfa drove very nicely. For the first test run will all the batteries and bonnet and bumpers on. 

I set the controller to limit motor current to 500amps and battery current to 180amps which is 3C and max constant current for the Sinopoly 60Ah.

I did an easy 120km/h on the highway in 3rd gear, and on the way back tried 4th gear for the first time and at around 100km/h is held its speed up all of the hills. I don't have the rev counter finished yet, but since I am using the original Alfa gear box I estimate 80km/h in 2nd gear and 120km/h in 3rd should be around 5000rpm. Maybe some Alfa guys on the forum could assist with some specs. When I am finished the BMS I can up the battery current to 5C, 300A which will be quite a performance difference.

Also a question for others out there with the Warp 9 motors. What's a good average running temp, or what's the average temp when you get to your destination. I drove about 25km (about 15 miles) in each direction at all speeds and varying gradients and the temp when parked was +- 50 deg Celcius


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

Congrats! 120 effortless km/hr...excellent!

Doubt that 50 C is anything to worry about, but have no personal experience with the motor.


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## schade_1_2 (Jun 6, 2013)

hello dear do u get some videos of your converssion alfa 156


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi

I will take one for you next time I go out on the high way. There is a nice on ramp where I can stop, and then will do a 0-100 pulling off in 3rd gear so I can hold the cam on the spedo.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

I promised a Video. I did a road trip into town to test everything as I have recently relocated a few electronic items and fitted a bigger battery for the controller in the empty box and some other stuff.

I don't want to push the batteries as I am still busy with the BMS 

I have the controller set at 
motor current 500A
motor volts 150v
battery current 180A
battery voltage 265v under load
+- 45kwatts 

I have uploaded the video in a zip file. I had to cut it a bit to get it to 4.7 MB


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## grumf (Oct 21, 2015)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xg028WD4oyo&ab_channel=SamoPosluga

haloo from Croatia..


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## grumf (Oct 21, 2015)

_https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xg028WD4oyo&ab_channel=SamoPosluga_

good day from Pozega-Croatia


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## phoenixmuj (Oct 8, 2015)

HI Mate, 

Very happy you got the car. I love this alfa so much. Need to get started on it again. Remember that the car weights a sh*t load. not the best donar car and its a bit*h to work on. bolts in annoying places plus it looks amazing lol. 

to get to the heater box, to install your heating element, you need to remove the whole dash. The box is in the middle of the dash, lower back. There is one hiddle bol behind the pasenger air bag, you need to remove the glovebox to get to it. always here if you need help

muj


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Muj

I haven't worried about the heater. It doesn't get that cold here in the winter. I'm done with the worst on the car. I am currently busy with my proto-type BMS. 

I still would like to do the Rev Counter, although I found a gear ratio chart, and did a few calcs if anyone is interested.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi. I haven't posted much in a while, as I have been busy working on a BMS. It has taken a whole year, I cant believe it. 

After much trial and error, frustration and tears, I got things to work they way I wanted to do it.

I still have some coding to do on the master controller, which for now is an Arduino Nano. I only have a 4 x 20 character LCD, in the car so will probably only display critical data while driving, and charging will keep an eye on a serial display whit all cell data etc. It will be a long time before I will leave the car to charge overnight and be able to sleep. Lots of fail safe circuits to build first. It doesn't take much to make a Microcontroller hang.

Anyway here are some pics of the boards.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Some more progress. BMS fitted inside a frame and in box mounted in the car. Also I found this flexible board called Aluflex. It's has a thin layer of aluminium on each surface. It was easy to cut and easy to bend. I used some off cuts I found in a scrap bin to tidy up my exhaust tunnel under the car where all the cables run from the front to the back.

I also fitted a small motor cycle radiator under the fron bumper for my controller liquid cooling. With a tiny 12v pump to circulate the coolant, it works very well. The controller at max throttle hardly went over 40C.

I also made a bracket to mount the original crank sensor to the dual shaft end of the motor for an rpm sensor


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## Duck-Stew (Jul 8, 2016)

Wow. Just read the entire build thread. VERY nicely done.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Just and update. I got the rev counter working on the Alfa. Was pretty straight forward. I used the 5v output from the Soliton controller to the crank sensor, and back to the Soliton Tach input, and same output to the ECU Pin A2.


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## DIGGER11 (Mar 16, 2010)

Great build thread, very informative.

Did you cut and drill the adapter plate yourself ?

Thanks

Digger11


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi.

No I had it done on a plasma cutter. It came out very neat, and was quite cheap. I was going to try and cut it with a jig saw, but I think it would have taken forever, and lots of blades. 30mm Aluminium.


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## DIGGER11 (Mar 16, 2010)

thanks,

One last question (a I am looking at converting either a similar year Alfa to your 156 or a Porsche Boxster and need to decide if the Alfa will be too difficult).
Did you run into any Canbus/Compute type issues. Form my readings 2002 was about when Canbus started to be used quite widely.

cheers

Digger


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Digger

I am not using the canbus at all. I actually removed the ECU completely. The Speedometer runs off the ABS which has an independent supply voltage. The supply voltage to the speedo itself just needs to be higher than 12.8v. The rest of the vehicle electronics operates without the canbus.

There are 1 or 2 pins off the ECU plug harness that I am using.
1 is for ignition on signal. 1 for the rpm.


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