# [EVDL] Difference in Controller Capacities?



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Seems like alot of people recently on the list have been running into
problems with sustained current -- a metric which almost no controllers give
you (probably because it depends heavily on your cooling setup). While peak
current might be what gives accelleration, the sustained current will be
important for going up hills, and it seems that alot of the controllers vary
in what the sustained current is relative to the peak. Determining how
oversized the sustained performance of your controller is is probably more
important than peak current. And alot harder to figure out from the specs
of most controllers too.



> Bob Sisson <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > What controller to get is ONE of the main questions facing a EV builder...
> >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

For a reality check, multiply your system voltage by your controller's peak 
current. Divide by 100, and that's (very roughly) the horsepower you'll 
have available.

So, 500a at 96v is about 50hp - 1960s VW Beetle power. Go to 144v and you 
have about the oomph of an '80s Toyota.

An EV pulls much harder from a dead stop thanks to max torque at stall, so 
it feels better behind the wheel, but it's still fairly modest power. If 
you habitually drive with you foot down hard, you'll think the EV is 
underpowered. If you drive conservatively and usually accelerate gradually, 
you'll most likely think the EV has adequate power. But I doubt that you'll 
consider it overpowered until you get into the REALLY big stuff.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Don't get battery current confused with motor current. At low RPM =

(like when starting off from a stop) almost every controller will hit =

its current limit very easily. That current is almost directly =

proportional to torque. So, although you rarely pull anywhere near =

that current from the batteries, the motor side of the controller sees =

high amps quite frequently (especially in city style driving.

Would a Zilla Z1K-LV be overkill??? Maybe, but at the current price =

of $1,975 through EV Components... Its an affordable overkill if you =

ask me. Also, keep in mind the Zilla Hairball offers more built in =

connectivity than any other controller AFAIK. Don't forget to factor =

that into your decision making process.



> Bob Sisson wrote:
> 
> > What controller to get is ONE of the main questions facing a EV =
> 
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

My project car is currently running with its ICE engine intact until
convertible season is over when my wife will let me have it back to do the
conversion... Until then I have been told it's hands off...she is having too
much fun in the "not the mom car..."

So... I have a fair amount of time on it using the 3-cylinder 1-liter 50Hp
(when new) engine. The saving grace is that it only weighs 1200 lbs... so
50Hp is about right...144v might be exciting, but I might keep it at 96-120v
and go for more Ah's (range) instead.

Bob Sisson
1993 Geo Metro Convertible Project
Gaithersburg MD


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

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----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> > Seems like alot of people recently on the list have been running into
> > problems with sustained current -- a metric which almost no controllers give
> > you (probably because it depends heavily on your cooling setup).
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Bob Sisson wrote:
> 
> > So... I have a fair amount of time on it using the 3-cylinder
> > 1-liter 50Hp (when new) engine. The saving grace is that it
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Bob,

Chip here in Laurel.

I have a new Curtis 1231-C 500 amp controller here for sale for 
$1,000 and some free advice.

I used the Curtis for two weeks so it's in new condition. Nope, I 
didn't blow it up. My new Zilla 1K-EHV arrived recently so I just 
finished installing that so I need to ditch the Curtis because I need 
the cash.

But here is a couple tips with the WarP. Consider using WarP's new 
line of controllers which is built for their motors. And of course, 
also consider the Zilla 1K-LV for $1,900 like Roger mentioned.

I don't think the Zilla is overkill. I've raced with one in a 
lightweight 240 pound electric jr dragster and have the same 
controller in my commuter EV. You will like the response you get from 
the controller. I'm not talking speed per se, which is great, but the 
pedal response. It won't jerk you around too quick if you press down 
the accelerator just a little. You can inch you're way back and forth 
skillfully in tight parking spaces. I also like the HEPI pedal option 
now. You replace the accelerator pedal with the Hall Effect 
accelerator pedal so you don't have to worry about rigging up the 
accelerator pedal and the cable to a pot box. It's wired directly to 
the Hairball. You get what you pay for.

Also, WarP "recommends" the Zillas as the most compatible controller 
for their motors. It says that in the manual that came with my 
Impulse 9.

My new Curtis 1231C didn't work very well with the WarP Impulse 9 but 
runs great with the new Zilla. I imagine the WarP line of controllers 
will work better as well.

But the Curtis 1231C I have may work well for the smaller 8 inch WarP 
you have. There may be an induction thing going on with the larger 
motors such as the 9 inch. Some people wind a coil of copper between 
the motor and the controller to handle the inductance.

But anyway, if you are interested in the Curtis 1231C I have, let me 
know. I'll let it go for $1000. I will also throw in a KTA-EV 1231C 
wiring schematic I got from Ken Koch at EV Consulting Inc, new Curtis 
pot box and a heat sink I bought from a surplus place. It is 
recommended the Curtis be cooled with a heat sink and/or fans. Ken's 
wiring diagram is great. I had no problems turning the car on the 
first time following the diagram.

The offer extends to anyone else who may want the Curtis. If you have 
an Advanced DC 9 inch this will work fine for it.

Good luck

Chip Gribben
301-490-0657
NEDRA
http://www.nedra.com
EVA/DC
http://www.evadc.org






> [email protected] wrote:
> 
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 15:43:25 -0400
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Chip,

I'm interested in purchasing your Curtis with the schematic, heat sink, and 
pot box. I have a ADC 9" and I'll be putting it in a Datsun Roadster. Let 
me know if you want to sell it to me.

Darrin Brunk
Pensacola, FLA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chip Gribben" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Difference in Controller Capacities?


> Hi Bob,
>
> Chip here in Laurel.
>
> I have a new Curtis 1231-C 500 amp controller here for sale for
> $1,000 and some free advice.
>
> I used the Curtis for two weeks so it's in new condition. Nope, I
> didn't blow it up. My new Zilla 1K-EHV arrived recently so I just
> finished installing that so I need to ditch the Curtis because I need
> the cash.
>
> But here is a couple tips with the WarP. Consider using WarP's new
> line of controllers which is built for their motors. And of course,
> also consider the Zilla 1K-LV for $1,900 like Roger mentioned.
>
> I don't think the Zilla is overkill. I've raced with one in a
> lightweight 240 pound electric jr dragster and have the same
> controller in my commuter EV. You will like the response you get from
> the controller. I'm not talking speed per se, which is great, but the
> pedal response. It won't jerk you around too quick if you press down
> the accelerator just a little. You can inch you're way back and forth
> skillfully in tight parking spaces. I also like the HEPI pedal option
> now. You replace the accelerator pedal with the Hall Effect
> accelerator pedal so you don't have to worry about rigging up the
> accelerator pedal and the cable to a pot box. It's wired directly to
> the Hairball. You get what you pay for.
>
> Also, WarP "recommends" the Zillas as the most compatible controller
> for their motors. It says that in the manual that came with my
> Impulse 9.
>
> My new Curtis 1231C didn't work very well with the WarP Impulse 9 but
> runs great with the new Zilla. I imagine the WarP line of controllers
> will work better as well.
>
> But the Curtis 1231C I have may work well for the smaller 8 inch WarP
> you have. There may be an induction thing going on with the larger
> motors such as the 9 inch. Some people wind a coil of copper between
> the motor and the controller to handle the inductance.
>
> But anyway, if you are interested in the Curtis 1231C I have, let me
> know. I'll let it go for $1000. I will also throw in a KTA-EV 1231C
> wiring schematic I got from Ken Koch at EV Consulting Inc, new Curtis
> pot box and a heat sink I bought from a surplus place. It is
> recommended the Curtis be cooled with a heat sink and/or fans. Ken's
> wiring diagram is great. I had no problems turning the car on the
> first time following the diagram.
>
> The offer extends to anyone else who may want the Curtis. If you have
> an Advanced DC 9 inch this will work fine for it.
>
> Good luck
>
> Chip Gribben
> 301-490-0657
> NEDRA
> http://www.nedra.com
> EVA/DC
> http://www.evadc.org
>
>
>
>
>


> [email protected] wrote:
> >
> >> Message: 6
> >> Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 15:43:25 -0400
> ...


----------

