# Warp11 Motor repair



## matthieu149 (May 9, 2011)

Hi all!

I recently measured a runout of .008'' on my motor to transmission coupler. Runout have been measured about 3'' away from the motor.

The coupler is fine. The runout came from the motor shaft, I measured .004'' as close as I could to the motor.

First step will be to replaced both bearing.
On my motors I have a 6307 bearing on Drive End and a 6306 on Comm End. What kind of bearings should I installed, as the actual does no seem to be OEM (branded KML and PEER)?

Information on Netgain and Warfield Electric websites does not seem to be accurate.

http://www.go-ev.com/PDFs/005_014_End_User_WarP_11_Parts.pdf

http://www.warfieldelectric.com/ind...rt&page=shop.browse&category_id=121&Itemid=69


*Motor History*
The motor have been bought used, it supposedly run for only 200km.
The plastic fan have exploded and have been replaced. A bearing have also been replaced.

*Motor inspection*
Motor have been dismantled, a few chips of the plastic fan was still stuck in the stator.

A band on the stator seem to be missing and a few copper wire seem to have moved.









There is rust on the rotor and some copper wire have been damaged, obviously by the plastic fan.


















The brush holder is cracked.









A brush is chipped.









What is your best advice regarding the runout and the bearings?

How critical the damage on my motor is, should I get it rebuilt now?

Can I simply coat the damaged coil with some electric motor varnish or resin and just sand down the rust on the rotor?

Thank you!!


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## cpct (May 31, 2012)

It does not look too bad from the pictures. What exactly happened to it that the fan exploded?
Were you able to turn it before disassembling it?


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Sad to see this. 

0.004'' on radius? I remember I had 0.004'' eccentricity on radius on my forklift motor and the vibration was important. The motor shop where I found advice said I can't simply balance the armature, I need to rework the shaft. It's what I've done and the motor spinning well after.
If you need, ask advice at G & T Moteur Electrique Et Pompes. They also sell quality bearings.
Exept that, I have Sprayon insulating varnish (2900 volts per 0.001'') for you if you need and the brush chip isn't an important problem.

Many thanks to post your pic of the Warp 11. I had never see any pic from this motor with all this details on the web.


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## matthieu149 (May 9, 2011)

I don't know why the fan exploded, the seller said it might be from an over-rev. I bought the motor with the fan replaced.

The motor have been tested with a 12V battery and it was running well. There was a little friction noise, but I'm not sure if it was normal noise from the brushes or else.

The runout is measured on the radius of the Drive End shaft.




Yabert said:


> Sad to see this.
> 0.004'' on radius? I remember I had 0.004'' eccentricity on radius on my forklift motor and the vibration was important. The motor shop where I found advice said I can't simply balance the armature, I need to rework the shaft. It's what I've done and the motor spinning well after.
> If you need, ask advice at G & T Moteur Electrique Et Pompes. They also sell quality bearings.
> Exept that, I have Sprayon insulating varnish (2900 volts per 0.001'') for you if you need and the brush chip isn't an important problem.
> ...


Was there vibration at lower speed, on 12V without load?
Thanks for the input, I'll ask advice to G&T!

The spray would be great for the rotor near the fan! But I would probably need something to replace the band on the damaged stator coil.


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## kennybobby (Aug 10, 2012)

Is the band in the middle of the rotor sticking out past the iron into the airgap at any point in its circumference?

Can you tell if the stator coils are one piece of wire wound into the two coil stacks, or if those two coil stacks are actually two wires connected in parallel? Would you be able to count the number of turns in one of the coils?

You could unbolt the pole piece for the stator coil with the missing band to put another band (fiberglass tape) on if you desired.

i would want to closely inspect any exposed copper wire (e.g. rotor end turns) for mechanical damage with a magnifying lens before repairing the insulation/varnish.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

matthieu149 said:


> Was there vibration at lower speed, on 12V without load?


I think it was 12V without load?
In my case, it was the shaft (my bad rework!) who was offset from the armature laminations. What about your?


> The spray would be great for the rotor near the fan! But I would probably need something to replace the band on the damaged stator coil


I also have High-Strength Fiberglass Cloth Tape at home.


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## kennybobby (Aug 10, 2012)

In the picture of the chipped brush--there is an exposed conductor in one of the pink crimp lugs, maybe pulled out of the crimp or improperly done originally...


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## matthieu149 (May 9, 2011)

kennybobby said:


> Is the band in the middle of the rotor sticking out past the iron into the airgap at any point in its circumference?
> 
> Can you tell if the stator coils are one piece of wire wound into the two coil stacks, or if those two coil stacks are actually two wires connected in parallel? Would you be able to count the number of turns in one of the coils?


The fibreglass band do not exceed the iron, at most it arrive flush.
I cannot see the configuration of the stator coils.

Not sure why you are asking those questions...



kennybobby said:


> In the picture of the chipped brush--there is an exposed conductor in one of the pink crimp lugs, maybe pulled out of the crimp or improperly done originally...


Good observation! I don't think it's critical as it is for the brush wear sensor, but I'll correct that!

I verified the whole rotor with some custom made V-Block.
I measured .004'' on the DE shaft, .002'' on the CE shaft and .004'' on the armature iron. The runout on the armature was 180° away from the one on the shaft. Looks like the whole rotor is bent.

I bring it to an electric motor repair shop. They have re-machined the diamater where the DE bearing is installed. I now have .002'' of runout on both the shaft and the armature.

I'll repair the rotor and stator coils and it will do the job for a while.
Until I replace the motor for a new Warp11.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

matthieu149 said:


> They have re-machined the diamater where the DE bearing is installed


And you change the bearing series for a smaller ID one?
Detail...


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## matthieu149 (May 9, 2011)

Yabert said:


> And you change the bearing series for a smaller ID one?
> Detail...


At the motor repair shop I brought my motor the guy couldn't tell me what their external machinist does exactly...
He knows the bearing have been removed, the diameter re-machined and the bearing re-installed.

It looks like they hammered on the shaft to straightened it. Then they probably cleaned up the diameter on a lathe to allow proper installation of the bearing.

See the following picture









The stator band have been replaced, the rotor damaged coil fixed and the iron on the armature cleaned and varnished. 

This varnish have been used on the armature and on the damaged coil.
This cement have been used on the fibreglass adhesive band I installed and over the varnish on the damage rotor coil.


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