# [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I've got a battery that seems to be destroying regulators. They'll work 
for a little while, then suddenly stop detecting full voltage. I'm 
cycling through four regulators, each of which works for about two days, 
then stops. 

This is the last regulator on the RegBus. Maybe I need a terminator or 
something?

Is there a way to test a MK2B, or should I just buy a bunch of spares?

Thanks,
Jude

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

It would be interesting to know what failed, and what exactly is different about this battery. Is it really the position of the battery (end of string)? What if you swapped this battery with one in the "middle"; would regulators continue to fail in the same position, or follow the battery? Could it be the battery is gassing and the acid vapors are killing the reg? (I don't think so; just trying to think outside the (battery) box). Could it be where the reg is mounted? Like when "the lid" is closed (if it has a lid), is it shorting something on the reg, or crushing it? Is it being exposed to something that the others are not? Does it somehow get hotter than the rest? And finally, another thought, is this one some how wired up differently than the others? Maybe there is a problem with the regbus _next_ to it (maybe a short on that regbus circuit?) that is killing the "next" reg in line...

What do you mean "suddenly stop detecting full voltage"? Does the rest of the regulator seem to function normally? After this post I'll go review the manual for the regs and try to figure out how they are suppose to behave (in other words, I don't really know right now, so what I say could be completely wrong). So what is suppose to happen; is there an LED that lights? I know that (or at least believe) that the regs report to the charger the highest and lowest reg temperatures. The highest so that the charger can back off current when the first battery starts bypassing (to keep the reg from overheating and hurting itself, and this also helps keep the voltage on the highest battery down), and the lowest reg temperature so that the charger can keep charging (at this lower rate) until all the regs are bypassing (all batteries are full). Is it this lowest temperature function of the regbus that stops working?

I wish Rich Rudman had time to post; I miss his stories. I'm hoping he's not around here anymore because he's too busy building chargers...

Steven Ciciora



I've got a battery that seems to be destroying regulators. They'll work
for a little while, then suddenly stop detecting full voltage. I'm
cycling through four regulators, each of which works for about two days,
then stops.

This is the last regulator on the RegBus. Maybe I need a terminator or
something?

Is there a way to test a MK2B, or should I just buy a bunch of spares?

Thanks,
Jude





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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Jude;

Check the battery voltage on charge. You will probably find the voltage is
too high for too long causing the failure.

The solution is to turn down the charger when the reg gets hot. If you are
connected to the regbus, the system should do it automatically. If the
regbus is connected, there may be a broken wire to pin #1 or pin #2 in the
last jumper. You can test this by shorting the two pins next to the regbus
connector.

Joe Smalley


> I've got a battery that seems to be destroying regulators. They'll work
> for a little while, then suddenly stop detecting full voltage. I'm
> cycling through four regulators, each of which works for about two days,
> then stops.
>
> This is the last regulator on the RegBus. Maybe I need a terminator or
> something?
>
> Is there a way to test a MK2B, or should I just buy a bunch of spares?
>
> Thanks,
> Jude
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Jude wrote:
> 
> ">I've got a battery that seems to be destroying regulators. They'll work
> for a little while, then suddenly stop detecting full voltage. I'm
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Steven Ciciora wrote:
> > It would be interesting to know what failed, and what exactly is different about this battery.
> That's exactly what I'm looking for. Unfortunately, I've only been
> going for a week, so I haven't had much time to experiment. And, having
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Joe,

Thanks for the tip! I was checking during charging, and it got as high 
as 14.4V once. The charger is already reducing current for other regs 
by the time this battery hits that kind of voltage, though.

What should I expect when I short the pins? Light, charging stops, 
reduced current?

Thanks,
Jude



> [email protected] wrote:
> > Jude;
> >
> > Check the battery voltage on charge. You will probably find the voltage is
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

When you short the pins next to the Regbus connector, the charger should go
to zero current within a second.

If not, try the regulator next to it. If it only cuts back part way, the
charger appears to be out of adjustment or there is excessive resistance in
the bus wiring.

If the second regulator cuts the charger, and the end one does not, either
pin 1 or pin 2 in the interconnect cable is not making connection.

You may need to try several of the regulators all the way back to the
charger to find an open bus wire.

The Mk2 regulators do not need a terminator.
The Mk3 regulators need a terminator only if you are using the EVilbus
feature.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[email protected]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jude Anthony" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators


> Joe,
>
> Thanks for the tip! I was checking during charging, and it got as high
> as 14.4V once. The charger is already reducing current for other regs
> by the time this battery hits that kind of voltage, though.
>
> What should I expect when I short the pins? Light, charging stops,
> reduced current?
>
> Thanks,
> Jude
>


> > [email protected] wrote:
> > > Jude;
> > >
> > > Check the battery voltage on charge. You will probably find the voltage
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Interesting reading, I didnt know there where issues with the Rudman
regulators
like these. I will not be using them if they are sensitive to a charger like
Zivan or
other recommended ones. I think I will go the Zener-Regulators instead.

-----
Except from himself and other fellow men, 
Man is the least endangered of all species. - Me
-- 
View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/Testing-Rudman-Mk2b-regulators-tp18998274p19009000.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Be careful about labeling Rich's regulators with a broad statement.

There are several products called Rudman Regulators. They are listed below
in chronological order:
Mk0
Mk1
Mk2
Mk2b
Mk2c
Mk2d
Mk3
Mk3by4
LT5
LT5B
LT5by8

They each have unique properties and are separate products.

The regulators in question are the Mk2b regulators. Not the other products.

The Mk2b and earlier regulators had some issues and have been discontinued
in favor of the later models that have a higher manufacturing yield and are
more reliable in service.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[email protected]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "AMPrentice" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators


>
> Interesting reading, I didnt know there where issues with the Rudman
> regulators
> like these. I will not be using them if they are sensitive to a charger
like
> Zivan or
> other recommended ones. I think I will go the Zener-Regulators instead.
>
> -----
> Except from himself and other fellow men,
> Man is the least endangered of all species. - Me
> -- 
> View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/Testing-Rudman-Mk2b-regulators-tp18998274p19009000.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Steven:

A short on the Regbus will not kill the next reg.

If the regulator works when it is connected, then it was connected up
correctly. There are only two wires to connect to the battery. It is
possible that there is a loose battery terminal that allows excessive
voltage to be applied to the regulator during charge. They blow up around 16
to 20 volts. There is a transient absorber that can protect the reg from
brief overvoltage events but cannot survive long overvoltage events. The
regs can also be killed by a loose battery terminal causing a high reverse
voltage on a regulator when driving. The early regs (Mk2b and earlier) did
not have a fuse, therefore the reg blew traces off the circuit board rather
then blow a fuse. The later regs blow the fuse with no permanent damage.

There is a yellow LED that lights when the battery is under voltage. They
are on the bus side of the optocouplers. All the yellow LEDs come on
together. When the undervoltage event is over, the yellow LEDs go out. Pin 3
of the Regbus is pulled down to ground (pin 4) during the under voltage
event and is released at the end of the event.
There is a red LED that comes on when the battery is undervoltage. It stays
on until the green LED comes on to reset the red. They are on the battery
side of the optocoupler (except the LT5s). The red LED indicates which
battery had the undervoltage event.
There is a green LED that comes on when the battery is over the threshold
voltage causing the load to come on. The green LED causes the red LED to go
off. Pin 2 of the Regbus is pulled up to +5 volts (pin 1) during the event
and is released at the end of the overvoltage event. Sometimes the
overvoltage event is terminated by the load coming on. In that case, the
green LED flashes briefly. On longer overvoltage events, the bus is pulled
up longer causing the charger current to be reduced by a larger amount.

The red LED can be triggered by a power contactor dropping in on uncharged
controller capacitors. A precharge circuit should be used, but some
controller installations do not have a precharge circuit and draw a huge
surge when the contactor is energized. I expect that is probably the case if
all of the red LEDs come on at the same time when the contactor is
energized.

The bus as originally designed had two analog lines that represented the
temperature of the hottest regulator and the coldest regulator. The concept
was valid, but the control loop could not be stabilized without software or
a person in the control loop. The original Regbus nomenclature should have
been replaced with HIGH REG and LOW REG concepts. These are digital signals
that say that there is at least one reg on the bus with a high voltage or
low voltage event in progress. The digital signals are stable in the charger
control loops without software or a person in the loop. All of the current
crop of regs (Mk2C and newer) follow this digital convention. Many of the
Mk2B regulators were updated for the digital signals (but probably not all
of them.) The thermal feedback delay in the Mk2B regulators is too slow to
cut the charger fast enough to adequately control the regulator temperature.
Some of the charger controllers were fast enough to control the Mk2B regs
but not all of them. If you put slow regs on the fast cutback chargers, they
were fine. If you put slow regs on a slow charger, the control system was
too slow and tended to oscillate at about 1 cycle per minute.

You can determine if you have the analog (slow) feedback or digital (fast)
feedback regulators by measuring the voltage on pin 2 and pin 3 of the
Regbus relative to pin 4 (common) with the bus connected to charger, the
charger power turned on and the current pot set to zero. A digital feedback
will show less than .5 volts on pin 2 and over 3 volts on pin 3. The analog
feedback regs will show voltages on pin 2 and pin 3 of about 1 volt apart.

If I recall correctly, the conversion from slow feedback to fast feedback
involves adding one diode to each regulator and removing the temperature
sensor from the mezzanine board.

Most (if not all) of the Mk2B regulators I have seen in the last year have
been converted to other uses. If anyone is interested in the update process,
I may be able to find some of the updated mezzanine boards to photograph the
updated regulators.

Rich has his hands full right now and is working 16 hour days six days a
week. The only time he looks at his email is if someone leaves a message for
him to look for a specific message. He has not subscribed to this list for
months. The email computer is about a half mile from the power shop and he
spends most of his time at the power shop.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[email protected]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steven Ciciora" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators


> It would be interesting to know what failed, and what exactly is different
about this battery. Is it really the position of the battery (end of
string)? What if you swapped this battery with one in the "middle"; would
regulators continue to fail in the same position, or follow the battery?
Could it be the battery is gassing and the acid vapors are killing the reg?
(I don't think so; just trying to think outside the (battery) box). Could
it be where the reg is mounted? Like when "the lid" is closed (if it has a
lid), is it shorting something on the reg, or crushing it? Is it being
exposed to something that the others are not? Does it somehow get hotter
than the rest? And finally, another thought, is this one some how wired up
differently than the others? Maybe there is a problem with the regbus
_next_ to it (maybe a short on that regbus circuit?) that is killing the
"next" reg in line...
>
> What do you mean "suddenly stop detecting full voltage"? Does the rest of
the regulator seem to function normally? After this post I'll go review the
manual for the regs and try to figure out how they are suppose to behave (in
other words, I don't really know right now, so what I say could be
completely wrong). So what is suppose to happen; is there an LED that
lights? I know that (or at least believe) that the regs report to the
charger the highest and lowest reg temperatures. The highest so that the
charger can back off current when the first battery starts bypassing (to
keep the reg from overheating and hurting itself, and this also helps keep
the voltage on the highest battery down), and the lowest reg temperature so
that the charger can keep charging (at this lower rate) until all the regs
are bypassing (all batteries are full). Is it this lowest temperature
function of the regbus that stops working?
>
> I wish Rich Rudman had time to post; I miss his stories. I'm hoping he's
not around here anymore because he's too busy building chargers...
>
> Steven Ciciora
>
>
>
> I've got a battery that seems to be destroying regulators. They'll work
> for a little while, then suddenly stop detecting full voltage. I'm
> cycling through four regulators, each of which works for about two days,
> then stops.
>
> This is the last regulator on the RegBus. Maybe I need a terminator or
> something?
>
> Is there a way to test a MK2B, or should I just buy a bunch of spares?
>
> Thanks,
> Jude
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Comments inserted...

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[email protected]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Brandt" <[email protected]>
To: "EVDL" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators



> This is the last regulator on the RegBus. Maybe I need a terminator or
> something?

No terminator needed on Mk2 regulators. Only Mk3s.

> Is there a way to test a MK2B, or should I just buy a bunch of spares?"

Mk2 ceased production a long time ago. They are only available used or
surplus.

> I, too, have had problems with a couple of regs. I am now out of spares.
Rich doesn't seem to answer emails, and the distributor only answers on
occasion. They are not supposed to need a bus terminator. I do not have
one on my last reg, and the bus works fine (unless one gets wet, of course,
then the bus fries it's brains until the system is 100% dry). I have one
that is latched on, and the bus is fried, and one that regs correctly, but
the bus is fried on that one, too.

Rich is overwhelmed. Call him if you need help.

> The reg has a connector for testing, which, incidentally, can shock you
with up to pack voltage when it is touched while charging (depending on
which battery you touch). We can't use it, but we really only need to know
2 things.

The test connector is connected to the battery terminals. If the terminals
are electrically hot, then the test terminals will be electrically hot also.

> The first can be checked with a 24V pair of batteries. Intermittently
connect them to the reg with test clips and it should come on. Don't hold
for more than a second.

This test has a good chance of destroying the transient protection circuit.
Please limit test voltage to 18 volts.

> The second can be checked by connecting that reg (and ONLY that reg) to
the charger (presuming it is a PFC charger) and seeing if it goes to
equalizing mode properly when you flip the switch on the charger and if the
timer does not inadvertently activate (presuming it is set up to activate
the timer when regulating starts).

Equalize mode tests pin 3 and 4.
If you put 18 volts on the reg, it will test pin 1 and 2.

> Some thoughts - 1) could you be charging at too high a current such that
when the reg comes on, it doesn't shunt enough current to lower the voltage,
so it stays on, gets hot, and then shuts itself down when it gets too hot.

The Mk2B had two temp sensors. If the upper one was not in contact with the
heat sink, the charger would not get the message to cut back when the heat
sink got hot. The lower temp sensor should shut down the current on the
regulator to save it, but the charger never got the message. If I recall
correctly a diode was added to solve this problem. The Mk2C and D models
have this diode on the board as built.

> I believe that is what they are supposed to do (they shut down to save
themselves). If so, try connecting an external load and see if it works.

The Mk2B had the option of internal or external load. The dual capability
did not exist in the Mk2B.

> 2) If you are using it with a PFC charger, then the charger should reduce
the current when the regs start shunting. If this is the case and it is not
happening, then it could trigger situation (1). This would be a bus failure
and could be due to bad cables/terminations, a second point it could fail
would be at a connector on a reg, and a less likely problem could be with
the connector in the charger. Have you tested the cables? Are the ends
terminated correctly?

Test the cables. They tend to get dirty or broken if the car is used on dirt
and gravel roads and driveways.


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

More reliable in service compared to what? What is the failure rate
of the old compared to the new? its very interesting.




> Joe Smalley wrote:
> >
> > Be careful about labeling Rich's regulators with a broad statement.
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I have used the older Mk1's - they were very reliable. I had one burn the 
board, and Rich replaced it immediately.
Rich is one of the good guys, and makes a very good product for a reasonable 
price. Don't knock it, or him!

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [email protected]
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "AMPrentice" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators


>
> More reliable in service compared to what? What is the failure rate
> of the old compared to the new? its very interesting.
>
>


> > Joe Smalley wrote:
> >>
> >> Be careful about labeling Rich's regulators with a broad statement.
> >>
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Rich answers the phone, and Joe Smally returns emails.

Flip dip switch 6 on on the charger, this will light the yellow led on
all the regs allowing 10% higher voltage and serves as a basic check of
the bus.
swap out the cable a regulator not connected to the buss can
overvoltage, overamp and smoke. Perhaps in hindsight and serial loop
implemented with a terminator or an extra cable back to the charger
would of been a more robust solution, I think the newest
regulators(digital) address some of these issues.

I too have had regulators fail. In all fairness, I installed them poorly
and reap what I sowed.

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

In fact, I'd like to point out that I'm not trying to blame the product 
at all. At the time I bought them, the Mk2b regs combined with the PFC 
chargers were not only the best deal in town, they were the best 
protection money could buy. Even now, I'm still not convinced that the 
regulators are actually the problem: I'm just asking how to test them to 
find out. 

I discovered today that the last regulator was preventing the charger 
from even starting up. I think the next-to-last reg has a broken 
RJ-whatever jack: after some fiddling around, I pressed the jack down 
and the charger started up.

This is a problem caused by my own mishandling of the regs early on in 
my build. I will not seek a refund; I intend to replace the 
second-to-last reg at my own cost and see if that resolves my anomalies.

Thanks for the help, everybody! And thanks to Rich for producing 
products like these for the community.

Respectfully,
Jude





> joe wrote:
> > I have used the older Mk1's - they were very reliable. I had one burn the
> > board, and Rich replaced it immediately.
> > Rich is one of the good guys, and makes a very good product for a reasonable
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Rich is in the office or shop from 9 am to 9 PM and the phone ring right
next to him. He usually quits about 9 and goes home to his redhead. I do
technical email duty after 9 PM when shipping, billing, receiving, etc. are
closed. I have no contact with those offices unless someone stays really
late.

The Regbus has four wires.
DIPswitch 6 tests wires 3 and 4.
Shorting the pins on each reg tests pins 1 & 2.
The EVilbus uses pins 5 & 6.

Yes, I have blown regulators as well.
It is amazing what a piece off a clipped resistor lead on the table under
the reg can do to the board if it gets in the right spot. We now test the
regs in a different room than where we clip the leads.

Last week I was working on the automated reg tester. The new regs dissipate
3.5 to 4 amps and the tester would only source 3 amps. In the process of
increasing the test current, I found a shorted regulator that caused the
power connector to the board to fail. Because the test cable was
intermittent, I falsely failed about 30 regulators before I figured out the
connector was intermittent. It was the end of my shift, so I left it up to
the next shift to retest the production lot.

The new tester does not use the test connector. The test connector is being
deleted from the new boards to make them easier to stuff.

The idea is to test them in the shop before the customer tests them.
We only send the best ones to the customers.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[email protected]



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators


> Rich answers the phone, and Joe Smally returns emails.
>
> Flip dip switch 6 on on the charger, this will light the yellow led on
> all the regs allowing 10% higher voltage and serves as a basic check of
> the bus.
> swap out the cable a regulator not connected to the buss can
> overvoltage, overamp and smoke. Perhaps in hindsight and serial loop
> implemented with a terminator or an extra cable back to the charger
> would of been a more robust solution, I think the newest
> regulators(digital) address some of these issues.
>
> I too have had regulators fail. In all fairness, I installed them poorly
> and reap what I sowed.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

The MK2b and c models had about a 30% failure rate before shop test. The
problem was traced to an employee that had personal problems and was
careless about where the parts were installed. Over half of the bad units
had the incorrectly placed parts replaced, passed test, and were shipped to
customers. The remaining regulators are in boxes awaiting troubleshooting
and repair. I was hearing about one bad regulator a month coming back from
customers. I believe the worst month had three come back. In each case, I
believe Rich sent the customer new regulators the day he got the phone call.

The failure rate on the Mk2d models has been less than 10% before shipping
and I have no knowledge of any coming back from customers. About a third of
the regulators that fail the shop test are because of misplaced parts, one
third are wave solder machine problems and a third are out of tolerance
parts.

Compared to the number of regulators that have been shipped, the failure
rate is rather low but we knew we could do better. There is still room for
improvement. We would like to have a batch with 0 failures but have yet to
see it.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[email protected]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "AMPrentice" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators


>
> More reliable in service compared to what? What is the failure rate
> of the old compared to the new? its very interesting.
>
>


> > Joe Smalley wrote:
> > >
> > > Be careful about labeling Rich's regulators with a broad statement.
> > >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I look forward to the day when honesty, communication and reliability
are part of the EV reputation as the last thing private and commercial
converters want is people complaining about something not working
or EVs being unreliable when compared to ICEVs its the opposite.
However limiting failure rates will help EVs become a force rather than 
a hobby for enthusiasts or freaks as perceived by the masses of sheep.
Thank you Joe for the honesty and clarification on what seems to be
a very enthusiastically approved product anyhows. As Im overseas I
really didnt want to put out for a number of these and have failures
that could affect expensive agm batteries not getting their right charge.
Its rare to see EV businesses succeeding for long periods and I hope that
changes for the sake of mankind and the many decent people involved.




> Joe Smalley wrote:
> >
> > The MK2b and c models had about a 30% failure rate before shop test. The
> > problem was traced to an employee that had personal problems and was
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Yes.

It was a design goal and it has been tested MANY times by both us and
customers.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[email protected]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RJRsolar" <[email protected]>
To: "'Joe Smalley'" <[email protected]>; "'Electric Vehicle Discussion
List'" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 11:33 AM
Subject: RE: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators


> Joe: I never did get an answer to my question:
>
> Can I run my PFC-20, using my 2kW Honda gen., at the same time I'm
charging
> the batteries AND driving the car? ("Hybrid" arrangement.)
>
> Roger Daisley
> Pullman, WA
>
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> America needs your thoughts:
> http://www.SpeakUpForAmerica.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Smalley [mailto:[email protected]]
> Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 10:15 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators
>
> When you short the pins next to the Regbus connector, the charger should
go
> to zero current within a second.
>
> If not, try the regulator next to it. If it only cuts back part way, the
> charger appears to be out of adjustment or there is excessive resistance
in
> the bus wiring.
>
> If the second regulator cuts the charger, and the end one does not, either
> pin 1 or pin 2 in the interconnect cable is not making connection.
>
> You may need to try several of the regulators all the way back to the
> charger to find an open bus wire.
>
> The Mk2 regulators do not need a terminator.
> The Mk3 regulators need a terminator only if you are using the EVilbus
> feature.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [email protected]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jude Anthony" <[email protected]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 6:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators
>
>
> > Joe,
> >
> > Thanks for the tip! I was checking during charging, and it got as high
> > as 14.4V once. The charger is already reducing current for other regs
> > by the time this battery hits that kind of voltage, though.
> >
> > What should I expect when I short the pins? Light, charging stops,
> > reduced current?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jude
> >


> > > [email protected] wrote:
> > > > Jude;
> > > >
> > > > Check the battery voltage on charge. You will probably find the
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Thanks Joe.
/roger
www.96-volt.com 


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
America needs your thoughts:
http://www.SpeakUpForAmerica.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Smalley [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 11:16 PM
To: [email protected]; 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators

Yes.

It was a design goal and it has been tested MANY times by both us and
customers.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [email protected]


----- Original Message -----
From: "RJRsolar" <[email protected]>
To: "'Joe Smalley'" <[email protected]>; "'Electric Vehicle Discussion
List'" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 11:33 AM
Subject: RE: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators


> Joe: I never did get an answer to my question:
>
> Can I run my PFC-20, using my 2kW Honda gen., at the same time I'm
charging
> the batteries AND driving the car? ("Hybrid" arrangement.)
>
> Roger Daisley
> Pullman, WA
>
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> America needs your thoughts:
> http://www.SpeakUpForAmerica.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Smalley [mailto:[email protected]]
> Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 10:15 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators
>
> When you short the pins next to the Regbus connector, the charger should
go
> to zero current within a second.
>
> If not, try the regulator next to it. If it only cuts back part way, the
> charger appears to be out of adjustment or there is excessive resistance
in
> the bus wiring.
>
> If the second regulator cuts the charger, and the end one does not, either
> pin 1 or pin 2 in the interconnect cable is not making connection.
>
> You may need to try several of the regulators all the way back to the
> charger to find an open bus wire.
>
> The Mk2 regulators do not need a terminator.
> The Mk3 regulators need a terminator only if you are using the EVilbus
> feature.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [email protected]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jude Anthony" <[email protected]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 6:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Testing Rudman Mk2b regulators
>
>
> > Joe,
> >
> > Thanks for the tip! I was checking during charging, and it got as high
> > as 14.4V once. The charger is already reducing current for other regs
> > by the time this battery hits that kind of voltage, though.
> >
> > What should I expect when I short the pins? Light, charging stops,
> > reduced current?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jude
> >


> > > [email protected] wrote:
> > > > Jude;
> > > >
> > > > Check the battery voltage on charge. You will probably find the
> ...


----------

