# [EVDL] 110V DC/DC converter (Iota)



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi folks,

I'm asking this question for a friend of mine who has a bit of a 
problem with his Iota DC/DC converter.

He's got an original '84 Golf VW CityStromer. It's recently been re- 
licensed after two years off the road.Unfortunately the original power 
electronics and DC/DC converter are broken and no-one seems to know 
how to fix them - so he was given a 500A, 96V Zapi controller and an 
Iota 110V DC/DC converter (55W).

The car operates at 96V nominal and I believe that he's been having 
some issues with the Iota not liking the lower voltage. I also believe 
that there's been some power-drain from the Iota while the car has 
been off.

Apparently someone on the list has worked quite extensively on Iota DC/ 
DC to make them more "reliable" and work on a smaller voltage. Any help?

I know I'm clutching at straws, but my friend would like to know where 
to start looking to get a reliable DC/DC converter without having to 
spend more on a new one.

The CityStromer has a gasoline heater with a glow plug - which means 
it does need a fairly large 12V battery or decent DC/DC to help out 
keep the car warm in the winter.

You can see some photos of the Stromer at my Flickr Page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/aminorjourney/

Thanks!

Nikki.


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I dont know about getting a 120VAC device to run on a "low" voltage DC
without significant modifications. I've been quite happy with the HWZ
300W 12V converter in my car, designed to run on a 96V pack it works
below 80V. Though 300W may not be enough for your application.


-Jon Glauser
http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
http://www.evalbum.com/555

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Nikki,
The Iota cuts out put at 106 volts input and lower.
shred



> Nikki Bloomfield wrote:
> >
> > Hi folks,
> >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi shred,

That's the point. The fully charged pack is only 112V, so 106 V is 
reached five miles or so into the discharge...

But as I understand it the unit is a switch mode supply, so it should 
be possible to change the input voltage, shouldn't it?




> shred wrote:
> 
> >
> > Hi Nikki,
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 4:27 PM, Nikki Bloomfield


> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > But as I understand it the unit is a switch mode supply, so it should
> > be possible to change the input voltage, shouldn't it?
> 
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I used an Iota DLS-45 with a 114V pack and the results were less than 
satisfactory. They operate at reduced power output below about 110V, so my 
lights would dim, wipers slow, etc. after a few miles of driving. The 
headlights would brighten considerably every time I took my foot off the 
accelerator 

1) Make sure you have the "quick charge" plug installed. You can make one 
from a telephone plug - short pin 1 to 3, and pin 2 to 4. It will raise 
the output voltage from 13.5V to 14.1 or so. This is from Bob Shreve @ 
Iota Engineering:

> Trust me, you aren't the first person to lose that little plug. The pin 
> out
> is 1-3 and 2-4. John Drake is one of our
> distributors. He would be the best person to talk about applications in
> EVs. His contact info is 1-562-423-4879. Hope that helps out and have a
> good day.

2) Find a way to keep the Iota running for an hour or so after the EV is 
turned off. This will help recharge the SLI battery because it will slowly 
drain as you drive, being propped up by the Iota only during the first few 
miles and when the 96V pack isn't sagging.

3) The only obvious way to help with a lower voltage input is to remove & 
bypass the bridge rectifier on the input of the Iota. It will make the 
input polarity sensitive but will lower the full power input voltage an 
additional 1.4V or so.

FWIW, a friend of mine used to work at Iota Engineering. He said the 
designer of the DLS-xx series was a real PITA to work with and was known 
for cutting corners. Of course my friend is a very meticulous engineer who 
designs things with lots of overkill.

4) You may find some good deals on 48V input DC/DC converters. Put 
identical ones on each half of the pack and wire the outputs in parallel. 
You would probably need an output diode on each. Some units share current 
well. Others even have adjustments to help with current sharing.

5) If you can find a 96V to 12V or 96V to 24V converter with 5-6A output 
you could use it to "boost" the pack voltage an additional 12/24V to help 
run the Iota.

6) Put a 24V or 36V "booster battery" in series with the 96V pack. The 
Iota will only draw 7A or so at full output, so a 20AHr pack would last 
well over two hours. But then you have to charge the booster battery also.

Find a more suitable DC/DC if you can. If not, try #1-3. They will help 
some, but the SLI battery will still discharge gradually and need charging 
every couple of days. Bonus points if the SLI battery is a deep-cycle 
battery.

Good luck!

-Adrian




> Nikki Bloomfield wrote:
> 
> > Hi folks,
> >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Nothing in the control circuit will help, when the output falls the loop is
already doing all it can. A 110Vac PSU runs off 110 X 1.414 = 155.5V, so
that is the designed nominal voltage. 110V DC is 30% low, you can't blame
the designer for that! I think the best way would be to take a turn off the
primary of the transformer. It will be a forward converter, either 1/2
bridge or full bridge.
If there is a way to add the output voltage to the into, that could
do it without modification, the Aux battery and the system would have to be
positive to chassis, then take the input for the DC-DC from the -12V aux
battery to the pack voltage and get 123V when the pack is 110V. I doubt that
it is going to be practical to have a -ve aux supply though.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf
Of Morgan LaMoore
Sent: Saturday, 16 May 2009 11:05 a.m.
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 110V DC/DC converter (Iota)

On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 4:27 PM, Nikki Bloomfield


> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > But as I understand it the unit is a switch mode supply, so it should
> > be possible to change the input voltage, shouldn't it?
> 
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Nikki Bloomfield wrote:
> > an original '84 Golf VW CityStromer... 96V nominal... Unfortunately
> > the original power electronics and DC/DC converter are broken and
> > no-one seems to know how to fix them - so he was given a 500A, 96V
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

While (fruitlessly) looking for the treadmill Nissan on Ebay, I found a 
Sevcon 72-96v, 30a output DCC. # 290317873795

It's sitting at $50 with no bids, BIN is $100. That seems like a decent 
deal to me, but what do I know?

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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