# Controller question



## Ben_Ryan (Dec 31, 2007)

hi guys quick question, can anyone explain the purchase options for a controller (Zilla) actually. 
this site here gives me options
http://www.evsource.com/tls_zilla.php

max motor current
input voltage range
hairball option
hairball cord length

thanks,
-Ben Ryan


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## John (Sep 11, 2007)

I purchased the 1000A 156V Zilla controller with the "A" and "P" options. By choosing a 1000A controller I have realistically eliminated the possibility of using the controller in a direct drive arrangement except for the lightest of vehicles (wasn't planning to anyway). By choosing the 156V option I wouldn't gain a lot from parallel series switching a dual motor arrangement (I plan on using just one motor anyway) which makes option "A" a little redundant (it adds the connections for reversing and parallel series switching relays which I wont be using). Option "P" means I have to use the Hall Effect throttle. I cannot use the more typical pot box. The Hall Effect throttle has less to wear out and hopefully should be more reliable because of this. If I had bought the 2000A 300V controller I would have paid considerably more for it and purchased much more capability than I can use in my current conversion though I would have a piece of kit that I could transpose into a performance oriented EV at a future date. Option "A" adds US$100 and option "P" is free with option "A" or adds US$30 if on its own. The Hall Effect throttle is purchased separately. The hairball is where all your low voltage connections are made. It doesn’t have to be mounted right next to the controller. It can be mounted under the dashboard for instance. Where you mount it will determine the cable length required. Standard is three feet I think.
The advantages of the 1000 amp Zilla over say a 550 amp Curtis should I'm hoping be improved initial acceleration and silence. It also adds things like rev limiting and stalled motor sensing among other things which should provide superior protection to the motor and improve reliability.


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## Mrmcgoo (Oct 13, 2008)

This is reallluy another controller question but being new to this forum, I'm not sure how to add a new line inside the "controller" page. Here is the question. Can I use a Zilla 1K controller with a Warp 9 motor? I ran the EV calculator using this combination and also ran one using a Curtis 1231C with the Warp 9. The results was about a 3 miles greater distance with the Zilla than the Curtis at 40mph, all other things being equal.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Mrmcgoo said:


> This is reallluy another controller question but being new to this forum, I'm not sure how to add a new line inside the "controller" page. Here is the question. Can I use a Zilla 1K controller with a Warp 9 motor? I ran the EV calculator using this combination and also ran one using a Curtis 1231C with the Warp 9. The results was about a 3 miles greater distance with the Zilla than the Curtis at 40mph, all other things being equal.


Yes, a Zilla 1K will work with any series wound motor, including a Warp 9. But the Zilla has been discontinued and is no longer available except for the occasional used one. So if you're thinking about building an EV, your controller options are the Curtis, Logisystems and Kelly for anything that can have 120+ volts.


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## Mrmcgoo (Oct 13, 2008)

Sorry to learn that. From what I have picked up in this forum, I think Curtis is the most reliable, Kelly the least. Which is quieter, the Curtis or the Logisystems, and what is difference life expectancy of these units.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Mrmcgoo said:


> Sorry to learn that. From what I have picked up in this forum, I think Curtis is the most reliable, Kelly the least. Which is quieter, the Curtis or the Logisystems, and what is difference life expectancy of these units.


Well Curtis has the oldest and longest running design, but the so far the Logisystems are failing just as often as the Kelly. I think both companies developed a new design and sold it before it was thoroughly tested, but recently both companies have been replacing the defective controllers with new and improved ones. 

I do have a Kelly and I have nothing but good things to say about it at the moment. There will be a full review of it in the coming weeks with my experiences.

Curtis is the only one with the starting noise, but it really doesn't seem to matter according to people who use it.


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