# Curtis 1221 leakage to chassis



## Kptn_Chaos (Apr 4, 2011)

Hi,

the conversion of my VW Polo ist slowly moving on. 

Today I tested the 96V circuit and the controller. The good news is, I can move on. The motor was turning. The bad news, I got "stung" connecting the batteries and the chassis with my arm.

I found that I have the full 96V between the batteries and the car. After unhooking the displays, one batterie after the other and so on, I found out, that the short is between the B- of the controller and the chassis.

Are the bars of the controller not isolated to the housing? Do I have to build up the controller isolated to the car or do I have a faulty controller?

I searched through the forum but didn´t find the answer (or didn´have the right question?)

Regards,
Martin


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

So you are saying that the controller alone, by itself, like sitting on a wood benchtop, with no connections, shows continuity from B- to the case? If yes, then the controller is faulty. It should be fully isolated from the case to all terminals.


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## Kptn_Chaos (Apr 4, 2011)

Hi major,

the controller without any connections, sitting on a heatsink which is connected to the chassis has a short to the chassis.

The controller is working though. I was able to speed up the motor with the potbox. 

Can I use the controller when I isolate the heatsink form the chassis?
Or will I have to open the controller and look for the connection between housing and electronic?

Regards,
Martin


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Kptn_Chaos said:


> Hi major,
> 
> the controller without any connections, sitting on a heatsink which is connected to the chassis has a short to the chassis.
> 
> ...


Why don't you return it to the dealer as defective? Aside from that, do what you want


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## Kptn_Chaos (Apr 4, 2011)

it was a used one, bought 3 years ago gave it a short test and it worked (what it still does). Never thought of doing an isolation check. So no giving back possible

Sounds like I will either have to bulid it on an isolation or open it. Ok, I will decide how to proceed. Now I´ll have a homebrew.

Thanks for the info that it has to be insulated. I wasn´sure about this.

Martin


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

What are you powering the ksi input pin with? It should be with the pack voltage, not the 12 volt system.


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## Kptn_Chaos (Apr 4, 2011)

the KSI is powered according to the Curtis schematic with 96V.

And thats my problem. Everything is working. Except for the isolation of the controller. With this I will not get the car legal, besides that its not safe.

Tomorrow I will double check the whole installation and dokument it if the weather allows it.


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