# DIY epoxy resin terminal with studs for HV



## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

I've been looking for a phenolic bolt-in fuse block to use in the circuit below, to join the 20mm diameter HV cables from the traction pack to the 6.5mm diameter cables that go into the DMOC inverter. 6.5mm is per the manual (AWG2). I'm struggling to find a reasonably priced fuse block. I can get a ferraz from Evolve for $50 but the shipping is another $50.

So my thought is to use thermoset epoxy, make it 20mm x 30mm x 120 mm so that I can have the 312v cable ends separated by 100mm, then drill through and put stainless steel studs in.


----------



## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

You can cast the studs in the epoxy instead of drilling afterward, too.

You need to look up "fiber reinforcing" that epoxy as it more than doubles it's strength and resistance to cracking.

Miz


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

That drawing looks to have the fuse connecting the + and - cables together.


----------



## Brute Force (Aug 28, 2010)

Don't bet your life on home building this part when it can be purchased for reasonable cost:

http://www.galco.com/buy/Mersen-formerly-Ferraz-Shawmut/1SC250


----------



## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

sabahtom said:


> I've been looking for a phenolic bolt-in fuse block to use in the circuit below


I'm using these and have more if you're interested. Since they're separated you could size them however you need, they just need to be mounted into something.


----------



## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

sabahtom said:


> I've been looking for a phenolic bolt-in fuse block to use in the circuit below, to join the 20mm diameter HV cables from the traction pack to the 6.5mm diameter cables that go into the DMOC inverter. 6.5mm is per the manual (AWG2). I'm struggling to find a reasonably priced fuse block. I can get a ferraz from Evolve for $50 but the shipping is another $50.
> 
> So my thought is to use thermoset epoxy, make it 20mm x 30mm x 120 mm so that I can have the 312v cable ends separated by 100mm, then drill through and put stainless steel studs in.


Hi Tom,

1. You have to display your UK location so people can understand that US sellers are not realy an option.

2. Very creative thinking about using epoxy, and I agree with casting the SS bolt in, BUT you have to find if the epoxy is realy an insulator rated at list at 500V , until you find out for sure don't do it.


----------



## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

JRP3 said:


> That drawing looks to have the fuse connecting the + and - cables together.


It's a fuse block without a fuse, just a way to connect and split the circuit.


----------



## skooler (Mar 26, 2011)

FWIW I use earth bars.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400a-Neut...ls_Supplies_Electrical_ET&hash=item35a4ee6e96

The red part is threaded on both sides but each side is isolated.


----------



## PStechPaul (May 1, 2012)

The proper part for this is a power distribution block:
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...Termination/PowerDistributionBlocks/index.htm

About $21:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COOPER-BUSSMANN-Splicer-Terminal-Block-1EF56?Pid=search

Or a bigger beast:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Connectron-GG3-3-Pole-Distribution-Block-600V-500A-/180882521345


----------



## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

TEV said:


> Hi Tom,
> 
> 1. You have to display your UK location so people can understand that US sellers are not realy an option.
> 
> 2. Very creative thinking about using epoxy, and I agree with casting the SS bolt in, BUT you have to find if the epoxy is realy an insulator rated at list at 500V , until you find out for sure don't do it.



Hi TEV

I wish I was in the UK (I lived there for a while). I'm in Borneo 

Thanks for the tip I'll check out the insulation rating.


----------



## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

mizlplix said:


> You can cast the studs in the epoxy instead of drilling afterward, too.
> 
> You need to look up "fiber reinforcing" that epoxy as it more than doubles it's strength and resistance to cracking.
> 
> Miz


Thanks Miz, I used drywall joint patching fibreglass tape. After two days of curing at 30 degrees C it could handle a tug of war between myself and a friend, holding onto the studs only. Good stuff.

Considering the comments about insulation rating I'll have to reconsider using it but it does look pretty, useful to know how to cast epoxy anyway.


----------



## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

PStechPaul said:


> The proper part for this is a power distribution block:
> http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...Termination/PowerDistributionBlocks/index.htm
> 
> About $21:
> ...


Thanks Paul, I had a look at the links. The reason for using studs is that I need to connect 20mm wires to 6.5mm wires. I haven't found any commercial part that allows this.


----------



## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

sabahtom said:


> Hi TEV
> 
> I wish I was in the UK (I lived there for a while). I'm in Borneo


In this case, you are doing the rong conversion  .

You should do an electric boat or submarine  .


----------



## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

And after a little Google, I understand now : Tom from Sabah.
I hope I got it right  .


----------



## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

TEV said:


> And after a little Google, I understand now : Tom from Sabah.
> I hope I got it right  .


That's it....the northeastern tip 

I finally found a shop that sells HV connectors. The one shown here is 600v 200A max. Looks good for $15.

I need 312v and 250A max. 

I am only using the terminals to bolt the cables on top of each other so the 250A current won't be going through the terminal block. The terminal block is only to hold them in place. I thought of trimming the corners off so I can turn the HV cables away from each other a bit.

In the photo I've got 6.5mm lugs on the opposite side of the terminal block which I thought of using for the accessories: power steering 30A, aircon 15A. Not sure of the aircon draw, I'll have to see what model I can get for a reasonable price. The power steering will be the Toyota MR2 pump that I don't have yet.


----------



## Superyellow (Dec 8, 2012)

I used grout mix with big brass electrical blocks..
A little bit of aluminum foil does the trick for a mold. As long as you don't hammer the finished product it will be as solid as a brick. You can also choose your favorite color


----------



## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

Superyellow said:


> I used grout mix with big brass electrical blocks..
> A little bit of aluminum foil does the trick for a mold. As long as you don't hammer the finished product it will be as solid as a brick. You can also choose your favorite color


Can you post some pictures ?


----------

