# Classic mini resto and conversion



## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Maybe go with a Smart ForTwo EV drive unit in the back and stuff the "bonnet" with batteries?


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

remy_martian said:


> Maybe go with a Smart ForTwo EV drive unit in the back and stuff the "bonnet" with batteries?


Thanks for the idea, I'll have a look at the battery cells etc.

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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

As far as I see here, the Leaf-motor is quite large, however it can fit into the Mini; seems to be a hard task.
I still believe that the TH!NK-drivetrain fits the best. The whole unit incl. 45kg batteries (18650 cells), good for 50km, are in the engine compartment of my current conversion, you can hide another battery-pack UNDER the rear seats (if you slightly modify the sheet below), and another pack fits comfortably in the trunk if you expand the original MINI battery tray to the very left side. And with little modification another pack can be hidden under the front seats. The MINI offers enough space for batteries to meet your specifications.
Nice to read about another classic MINI coming back to the road with a reasonable engine.
Good Success!
Markus


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

schelle63 said:


> As far as I see here, the Leaf-motor is quite large, however it can fit into the Mini; seems to be a hard task.
> I still believe that the TH!NK-drivetrain fits the best. The whole unit incl. 45kg batteries (18650 cells), good for 50km, are in the engine compartment of my current conversion, you can hide another battery-pack UNDER the rear seats (if you slightly modify the sheet below), and another pack fits comfortably in the trunk if you expand the original MINI battery tray to the very left side. And with little modification another pack can be hidden under the front seats. The MINI offers enough space for batteries to meet your specifications.
> Nice to read about another classic MINI coming back to the road with a reasonable engine.
> Good Success!
> Markus


Thanks Markus
Do you have a thread for your build?
Cheers
Scott

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

I see a spreadsheet coming [emoji28]

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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

There is somewhat:









Mini mit Elektroantrieb - Das große Mini Forum


Hi zusammen, wäre sicher schlauer gewesen, diesen Thread vor 5 Jahren zu eröffnen, als ich mit meinem Projekt konkret angefangen habe, aber besser jetzt als gar nicht. Umbau #1 gibt es schon. Ist zugelassen seit April 2019 mit E-Kennzeichen. Ist ein 84er…




www.mini-forum.de










Klassischer Mini mit E-Antrieb - Seite 4 - Dein Elektroauto-Umbau Projekt - Elektroauto Forum


Klassischer Mini mit E-Antrieb - Seite 4 - Dein Elektroauto-Umbau Projekt - Elektroauto Forum



www.goingelectric.de





I am not a typical "blogger" (probably the wrong generation), so please don't be too disappointed: other people write more and place more and better pictures. Of course, if you need any information, I will be happy to share with you people.

Markus


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

schelle63 said:


> There is somewhat:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Markus
I'll have a look

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## pickmeup (May 8, 2018)

Im using the mitshubishi oultander rear motor, ive already got it fitted into the mini subframe. Ive got a slightly different issue with battery location as im doing it in a mini marcos.
The issue i have with the Swind-E conversion is that they cut into the front bulkhead and the floors of the car which isnt great and opens it up to IVA fun and games.


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## ThunderStruck Motors (Aug 13, 2020)

scottherrington said:


> Hi everyone,
> I am restoring a 1996 Mini with the intention to convert to electric.
> I've been following some of the threads and have been planning on using a Nissan Leaf.
> However I really want a range of 100 miles and am struggling to work out how to fit enough batteries in such a small car without losing the rear seats.
> ...


The Leaf drive train is actually quite compact once the bulky liquid cooled charger and dc converter are removed.
Using our VCU : VCU for UQM Motor It is ideal for front wheel drive or rear wheel drive applications using the Leaf differential. Cutting the half shafts and mating to the donor car is much easier, (and cheaper), than making a custom adapter to a manual transmission. We have placed this drive into a Geo Metro, a 
Mazda Miata, and are now working on a Toyota Tacoma conversion. great for early VW's. High torque, powerful, and automotive grade reliability. We offer much more compact chargers, dc converters, and bms that can be mounted where space allows.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

If you want to keep the rear seat and get 100mi, I'd try and stick the motor in the rear. You'll have to build your own mounts, and use Miata hubs and brakes, but it'd be a wicked car when you're done. You could easily fit half a Leaf pack under the hood, and the other half under the seats and in the trunk above the motor. It's more or less what you want the weight balance to be (and in a RWD car, I'd aim for 47% front, 53% rear). There's room for a few modules between the front seats, in front of the handbrake as well.

It's not so much the motor that's your issue, it's the batteries. The Leaf modules aren't the most dense, but they're a great form factor for squeezing into nooks and crannies. At low average speeds in warm temps, I'm getting 60-80mi out of a mere 30 Leaf modules (15kW) in my Mini.


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> If you want to keep the rear seat and get 100mi, I'd try and stick the motor in the rear. You'll have to build your own mounts, and use Miata hubs and brakes, but it'd be a wicked car when you're done. You could easily fit half a Leaf pack under the hood, and the other half under the seats and in the trunk above the motor. It's more or less what you want the weight balance to be (and in a RWD car, I'd aim for 47% front, 53% rear). There's room for a few modules between the front seats, in front of the handbrake as well.
> 
> It's not so much the motor that's your issue, it's the batteries. The Leaf modules aren't the most dense, but they're a great form factor for squeezing into nooks and crannies. At low average speeds in warm temps, I'm getting 60-80mi out of a mere 30 Leaf modules (15kW) in my Mini.


You're not the first to suggest RWD, it would be an extra challenge but could be awesome.

I'm currently looking at all the different battery modules to see if a Zoe or i3 pack would be easier to mount in the mini.
Trying to find the info and be confident that the info is correct is tricky.
I think the Zoe modules are 373x204x140mm and the i3 are 150x310x410.
I'm going to have to make a concrete decision soon as I'm repairing the shell now ( you can follow on my YouTube channel Mini Life Crisis).

Really interesting to hear you're getting that sort of mileage on a charge, I generally get about the same out of my i3 which takes just under 18kwh to charge.

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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

RWD would be good for a further reason: wheels will not spin that easily as they do on a FWD. I am considering a 4WD with my project #3 Mini.
Any suggestions which rear axle to use?
Markus


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

The trick bit seems to be getting Miata hubs/brakes onto the Mini rear subframe. Basically this, but without the full cage:









STORE






superfastminis.com





If you're really going AWD, you're looking at two Leaf motors, or using something like a RAV gearbox and differential, with a VTEC subframe up front and this in the rear:









STORE






superfastminis.com





It gets pricey fast. I wish they just sold this, but with drivable hubs:









STORE






superfastminis.com





It's worth noting that, after going from old/cracked tires to a set of Yokohama A032Rs on my car, front wheel spin has been greatly reduced. I still like the idea of RWD, but FWD is working well and fits the chassis/suspension design...To pay the cost of going AWD, I think you'd really want a specific reason for it.


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## pickmeup (May 8, 2018)

the beam axle that tremelune has linked to has been around for many years, i fitted one to a mini clubman and it made the rear end skittish, hence why none of the racing minis in competition use them.

RWD would be great and its what the guys in the UK are doing with the R300 which is a funny name as thats what early racing caterhams are named but i think it has something to do with power to weight ratio.

Volt-EV Facebook Page

I looked at the LG Chem batteries and had a quote from Electric Classic Cars for them but the cost is still a lot higher than buying a second hand battery pack. Im now looking at outlander / vw and BMW hybrid battery packs. Range isnt so much of a priority as i want to use the marcos on the track so as long as it lasts a couple of track sessions at my local track thats all i need.


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

I wonder if you could do something with the i3 rear subframe?

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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

pickmeup said:


> I looked at the LG Chem batteries and had a quote from Electric Classic Cars for them but the cost is still a lot higher than buying a second hand battery pack. Im now looking at outlander / vw and BMW hybrid battery packs.


If you're looking at second-hand, the Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid pack is a set of six of those commonly offered LG Chem 16S (~60V) modules. The Outlander PHEV pack is, unusually for current production vehicles, only 80S (~300 V nominal); that may be fine.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

pickmeup said:


> the beam axle that tremelune has linked to has been around for many years, i fitted one to a mini clubman and it made the rear end skittish, hence why none of the racing minis in competition use them.


Beam axle? Maybe you're referring to an earlier post, but in today's post the suspensions in the mid-engine kit and in the rear coil-over subframe are independent by trailing arms, and the all-wheel-drive rear subframe has upper and lower A-arms (the Mazda Miata NA/NB design - not quite double wishbone). All three are different (the two trailing arm systems are differently constructed, but of the same type) and none are beam axles. The rear coil-over subframe incorporates an anti-sway bar - if that is too stiff it would make the rear end "skittish", but it could be replaced with a softer (smaller-diameter) bar, or simply omitted.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

schelle63 said:


> RWD would be good for a further reason: wheels will not spin that easily as they do on a FWD. I am considering a 4WD with my project #3 Mini.
> Any suggestions which rear axle to use?





Tremelune said:


> The trick bit seems to be getting Miata hubs/brakes onto the Mini rear subframe..


In any small RWD project, Miata bits are good candidates... but they don't have the same wheel bolt pattern as a Mini: Mini is 4-on-4" (101.6 mm), early Miata is 4-on-100 mm. Close is not good enough in bolt pattern PCD (pitch circle diameter).

The wheel mismatch might not matter - a RWD Mini could end up rear-heavy (depending on battery location), and wider wheels might be used in the back, meaning that front and rear wheels wouldn't interchange anyway. As long as you can buy the same style of wheel for both ends, it would be a non-issue.



Tremelune said:


> If you're really going AWD, you're looking at two Leaf motors, or using something like a RAV gearbox and differential, with a VTEC subframe up front and this in the rear:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Even for RWD (not AWD), this AWD subframe kit might be the way to go. It uses the NA/NB Miata/MX-5 rear suspension design, but with custom control arms, presumably to fit the much narrower track width of the Mini. It's easier to understand in context with this image of a completed installation (toward the front of the car is the top of the image).

I'm surprised that there is so much room under the trunk floor of the Mini to fit this relatively tall suspension - with no installation instructions, I don't know if this requires cutting out the floor above it. In many FWD cars the fuel tank, spare tire, or muffler would sit there... is it just the muffler in a Mini, or maybe the muffler below the floor with the spare and perhaps battery to top? I know the fuel tank is not there in a Mini.

With all that room - enough for a final drive unit (differential assembly) - it would be nice to be able to place the motor and gearbox there, but that's asking a lot and seems unlikely. This AWD kit uses the stock exhaust tunnel for the propeller shaft; it would be possible to mount a motor longitudinal under the rear seat, but the tunnel would need to be enlarged and it would be much higher than the seat base... and where does all of the battery go if the motor and final drive + suspension are taking all this space in the rear seat and trunk areas?

It would be unfortunate to build a RWD Mini for better drive traction with the rear weight bias, then end up piling the front so full of battery that the car is still front-heavy. It would be the reverse of the current silliness of production EVs based on FWD platforms, which drive the front wheels but are rear-heavy due to their centred to rear-biased underfloor battery packs. Of course, RWD with even a slight front weight bias is better than the reverse, and adding passengers and cargo shifts the weight distribution rearward.



Tremelune said:


> I wish they just sold this, but with drivable hubs:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ready-made would be nice, but that's certainly something that can be custom-fabricated by many shops and home builders. It has an interesting feature which mounts the hub carriers with two bolts, one of which can be adjusted to control toe; the same thing could be done with an adjustment at the inboard mount of the trailing arm instead, if you don't want to accommodate their anti-sway bar system.

A common production rear suspension design for FWD cars is to combine the trailing arms into one assembly with a beam joining them at the pivot axis. The middle part of the beam has to be able to twist to accommodate the arms moving different amounts, and acts as an anti-bar. In this design toe is not normally adjustable, as it stays fixed in the as-built condition unless the assembly gets damaged. This is simple to mount (just two forward mounting pivots plus springs and shocks for the whole thing), but not trivial to design because the deliberate twisting must be accommodated.

Early Miata (NA/NB) rear hubs are hard to use with anything other than the stock hub carriers (uprights), because the bearings mount directly into the hub carrier. Modern (so, newer than an NA or NB Miata/MX-5) practice is to use a replaceable hub and bearing assembly that bolts (with four bolts) into the upright - using those makes building a suspension arm easier, as it just needs a plate with the four bolt holes in the right pattern and a big hole for the hub - even U-Haul trailers have used this approach. You need this from something driven, which can be the rear of a RWD, the rear of an AWD, or even the front of a FWD (although these assemblies are more commonly used in the rear). The current (ND) Miata/MX-5 is an example. Of course, none of them will have a 4-on-4" wheel bolt pattern.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

scottherrington said:


> I wonder if you could do something with the i3 rear subframe?


I don't think that the BMW i3 has a rear subframe - it appears to have an aluminum full frame, with a carbon-fibre body sitting on top. You could cut the rear section off of an i3 frame, complete with suspension and drive unit, but it is far too wide for a Mini.


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## Roaminaway (Aug 13, 2020)

Scott, I just checked out your Youtube channel. It looks like you are well begun on the body restoration. I'm looking forward to seeing the project come together, and reading the updates here. 

I'm new to even thinking about EV conversions, and I am keen to learn from your process.


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Roaminaway said:


> Scott, I just checked out your Youtube channel. It looks like you are well begun on the body restoration. I'm looking forward to seeing the project come together, and reading the updates here.
> 
> I'm new to even thinking about EV conversions, and I am keen to learn from your process.


Thanks, I have a looong way to go but with the nature of the conversion I have to have these discussions now.
It is the first time I have taken on such a big project and I have learned so much from people on the internet be it YouTube or forums such as this one.
The more information we all put out there the easier it will be for everyone to share and complete their own projects.
You can check out some of the channels I follow as they have been invaluable and/or inspirational to me.

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

So, I've made a cardboard mock up of battery modules from the Leaf, i3 and Zoe.
It looks as if the Zoe batteries will fit in easier than the others (I was kinda hoping the i3 would be a good fit as the motor has more power)
It might be possible to fit 6 in the boot, 2 under the rear seat and 5 where the tunnel currently is. The new tunnel would be 30cm to 35cm tall.
That makes 14 out of the 16 modules so only need to find space for 2 more.
As stated on another thread I will need to get the car inspected as I would be making modifications to the integrity of the body but if that is what's needed to have a useable car then so be it.
This is all provided that I can stand the modules on their ends (in the boot) 

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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

scottherrington said:


> So, I've made a cardboard mock up of battery modules from the Leaf, i3 and Zoe.


Ah... CAD  (Cardboard Aided Design)



scottherrington said:


> The new tunnel would be 30cm to 35cm tall.


In the scale of a Mini interior, that sounds more like a wall than a tunnel. What would it be like for elbow room?



scottherrington said:


> That makes 14 out of the 16 modules so only need to find space for 2 more.


A possible alternative is to run 14/16ths of the stock voltage, with a corresponding loss of high-speed performance, if the BMS still works without all of the cells and the controller/inverter can work with the lower voltage. Tesla had 14 modules or 16 modules in the Model S, with the same drive units.



scottherrington said:


> This is all provided that I can stand the modules on their ends (in the boot)


As long as they are supported by an appropriate structure, that shouldn't be a problem. As an example, snowdog has placed some of his LG Chem module (which are normally horizontal in the Pacifica Hybrid) on end in his car.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Back when I did my Lancia mini in the 80's I moved the rear bulkhead back a few inches to get more room in the car - I also cut away the center tunnel and put a larger one in there - it made almost no difference to the space inside

There is also a lot of space in the middle of the rear subframe - if you go to coil springs you can throw away the rear subframe and just have a single cross car member that bolts on to the front mountings for the rear subframe and carries the rear swinging arms


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Good to know, thank you
I was looking at enlarging the battery tray to sink some batteries between the subframe.

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## pickmeup (May 8, 2018)

have a look on my instagram #electricclassicminis, theres a guy in chile that has done this by enlarging the original 'battery box' and building a while new box underneath to house the batteries.


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Duncan said:


> There is also a lot of space in the middle of the rear subframe - if you go to coil springs you can throw away the rear subframe and just have a single cross car member that bolts on to the front mountings for the rear subframe and carries the rear swinging arms


Thanks Duncan
Do you have any examples?
I'm looking online but not sure if I'm looking at the right thing 

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

pickmeup said:


> have a look on my instagram #electricclassicminis, theres a guy in chile that has done this by enlarging the original 'battery box' and building a while new box underneath to house the batteries.


Done!
If I can see how it's done I'll price it up and see if it's achievable.
If I can get 8 in the boot and 8 in the car it will make wiring much easier to keep with the 8s2p layout.
Then hopefully everything else can go in the front, I might yet still end up with a boot 

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

scottherrington said:


> Thanks Duncan
> Do you have any examples?
> I'm looking online but not sure if I'm looking at the right thing
> 
> Sent from my moto g(8) power lite using Tapatalk


Don't worry, found it in my own thread 

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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

scottherrington said:


> Don't worry, found it in my own thread
> 
> Sent from my moto g(8) power lite using Tapatalk


I did mine back in the 80's - Lancia powered mini 
Nowhere near as much in the way of photos back then!


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## Caspar (Dec 17, 2011)

Hi
converting classic Mini, cool. As Marcus says, the Norwegian small EV Think is a perfect donor for classic Mini. Take a look at my PU


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Caspar said:


> Hi
> converting classic Mini, cool. As Marcus says, the Norwegian small EV Think is a perfect donor for classic Mini. Take a look at my PU


That is very nice Caspar, it's also interesting to hear about the benefits you get like free parking.
What is the top speed please?
I will need to get to motorway speed (70mph)

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## Caspar (Dec 17, 2011)

scottherrington said:


> That is very nice Caspar, it's also interesting to hear about the benefits you get like free parking.
> What is the top speed please?
> I will need to get to motorway speed (70mph)
> 
> Sent from my moto g(8) power lite using Tapatalk


hi, the top speed is based on the max rpm in the motor. I use the standard motorcontroller from Think (Siemens) and I think I have set the max rpm to 10.000, and that give me at top speed at apr 110 km/h and I think thats enough for a Classic Mini

Caspar


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Hi everyone, it's been a while, I know, but work has been progressing on the Mini shell.
Can I have your opinions please?
The photo shows the height of the Zoe and i3 battery modules where the tunnel currently is, the Zoe is smaller so would be a less intrusive install however the i3 has 70hp MORE so the question is...

Which do I go for?

Zoe is less intrusive but has less power

i3 is more intrusive but has more power, I can swap a larger battery pack into my current i3 and use that one in my conversion but is it too big?

Tia









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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Both will be under your elbows, so it may not matter much for the tunnel. I would go through the effort of seeing where you'd have to put all the batteries before making a decision—one may fit the whole car significantly better than the other. 16 Zoes seems to take up a lot more precious space than 8 i3s, though you might be able to go vertical with the Zoes for the tunnel. It looks like you might be able to get one of either module under the bonnet atop the motor.

I'm no chassis designer, but that tunnel seems like an important structural member. I would make sure it can be reinforced if it's cutout.


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> Both will be under your elbows, so it may not matter much for the tunnel. I would go through the effort of seeing where you'd have to put all the batteries before making a decision—one may fit the whole car significantly better than the other. 16 Zoes seems to take up a lot more precious space than 8 i3s, though you might be able to go vertical with the Zoes for the tunnel. It looks like you might be able to get one of either module under the bonnet atop the motor.
> 
> I'm no chassis designer, but that tunnel seems like an important structural member. I would make sure it can be reinforced if it's cutout.


I reckon I can get 4 i3 batteries in the boot, if you think I can get one over the motor then that would free up some space in the cabin (ideally between the front seats)

I can get 8 Zoe batteries in the boot and 8 in the cabin but would have to raise the rear seat and mess with the sills.

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Also I am confident we can keep any lost strength from removing the tunnel when then new tunnel goes in. 


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

I've borrowed some front seats from a friend and have cut 9cm off the i3 battery to allow for the tunnel height.
The batteries don't stick up much further than the seat so I'm happy with that.
With all the seats in place you can see there is no room for batteries under the rear seat as they stick out and there would be nowhere to out your feet!
I'm now thinking of extending the compartment bins and reducing the width of the seat but a few cm each side.
That should allow me to get 4 in the cabin, 4 in the boot and the rest of the gubbins up front.






























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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

The i3 module mockup looks like it is touching both seats. In reality, there needs to be space for the tunnel wall and mounting clearances, so I don't see this module fitting in width.

By the way, the first two photos are duplicates and the last two are duplicate copies of the same corrupted image... but that one photo that made it is helpful.


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

brian_ said:


> The i3 module mockup looks like it is touching both seats. In reality, there needs to be space for the tunnel wall and mounting clearances, so I don't see this module fitting in width.
> 
> By the way, the first two photos are duplicates and the last two are duplicate copies of the same corrupted image... but that one photo that made it is helpful.


Thanks, I'll try and sort those images out.
It may be that I have to go with narrow aftermarket seats to get the space needed. I do have the option of 1 battery going in the front if it needs to.

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

I'll upload one at a time









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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Potential place with some work to the compartment bins









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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Front module









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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

Don't forget you need a handbrake lever.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Definitely consider wiring and coolant plumbing during placement. I thought I had a great scheme until the tolerances were so tight that I was throwing sparks trying to wire it up. Coolant plumbing can be unforgiving due to the need for large-radius bends to avoid kinking (though 90° elbows work).

I wanted to cut out the rear "pocket" but I didn't know how to mount the seat belt reel without it.


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

schelle63 said:


> Don't forget you need a handbrake lever.


I'm looking to go electronic

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> Definitely consider wiring and coolant plumbing during placement. I thought I had a great scheme until the tolerances were so tight that I was throwing sparks trying to wire it up. Coolant plumbing can be unforgiving due to the need for large-radius bends to avoid kinking (though 90° elbows work).
> 
> I wanted to cut out the rear "pocket" but I didn't know how to mount the seat belt reel without it.


A possibility could be a taller pocket meaning there is still a mounting point for the seatbelt [emoji848]
I think there is only so far I can plan without the parts.
As for cooling as the batteries won't be tightly packed and our ambient temperatures are fairly low on average I don't think it will be a massive problem. I will look at putting some cooling in but I will have to figure that out once I have all the parts.

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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

Tremelune said:


> Definitely consider wiring and coolant plumbing during placement....
> I wanted to cut out the rear "pocket" but I didn't know how to mount the seat belt reel without it.


Very right, wiring an plumbing (if needed) requires considerable space.
The reels could be mounted to the c-pillar's nuts, where the rear seat belts are. In that case you need different reels, as the original ones must be mounted vertically. Cutting the pockets eliminates the link between A-pillar and the bottom; must be replaced somehow.


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

schelle63 said:


> Very right, wiring an plumbing (if needed) requires considerable space.
> The reels could be mounted to the c-pillar's nuts, where the rear seat belts are. In that case you need different reels, as the original ones must be mounted vertically. Cutting the pockets eliminates the link between A-pillar and the bottom; must be replaced somehow.


The pockets would stay, they would just be made larger to fit the battery inside.

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

schelle63 said:


> Very right, wiring an plumbing (if needed) requires considerable space.
> The reels could be mounted to the c-pillar's nuts, where the rear seat belts are. In that case you need different reels, as the original ones must be mounted vertically. Cutting the pockets eliminates the link between A-pillar and the bottom; must be replaced somehow.


Nice idea for the seatbelts, thanks [emoji2]

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Exciting times ahead, I should be getting a salvage i3 this week, it has been in a collision and the airbags deployed. This should mean the HV battery pack is disconnected to make it safe.
Two questions
What level of charge should it have for long term storage?
Do you guys think it will still charge?
Tia

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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

My understanding is that 50% is ideal, so figure err just over that.

If the systems are intact, it'll charge. If anything is missing...probably not.

Do you plan to use the motor? I'm wondering how to control it...


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Thanks, I'll try and charge it when it arrives.
The plan is to use as much as possible, I've been following The Blackhursts on YouTube and he has got a leaf motor running off an Arduino set up.
If I can't do that then I'll go Thunderstruck like you [emoji6]

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Whoop whoop!
















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## Greenbeast (Jun 23, 2009)

scottherrington said:


> I've been following The Blackhursts on YouTube


link please?


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Greenbeast said:


> link please?


That's why you probably couldn't find it, the channel name has been changed


https://youtube.com/user/horndoggie999



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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Cracking on with the bodywork, the replacement floor is in, I need to finish welding a few bits then tidy up and paint.
The next job will be to replace the front end.
After that I'll be taking the motor out if the i3 [emoji51]

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

My latest episode is now on YouTube






Hope you enjoy 

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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Been trying to look into how to control the motor when the time comes.
So far the options are to 
1; hack the i3 set up (don’t think I’m clever enough)
2; Use a Lebowski brain as in Damien Maguires vids
3; Use a kit from openinverter.org

Soon I’ll be stripping the battery pack out of the i3 then the motor.


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