# 1965 Ford Mustang Conversion



## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

This is far from the first Mustang conversion, but this one will be mine! I'm starting to work on projects some more now that I have more time, and I picked up this dumpster fire off of Craigslist for too much money, but I love first gen Mustangs (especially notchbacks) so that's the way it is.










The plan so far is to use a Nissan Leaf motor with a Ford 3.03 3 speed transmission. This is a very similar setup to what I used in my Mercedes, but I'm going to do it better this time. I've learned a lot since starting the Mercedes, so I'm excited to put that all to work here. I have an adapter plate and coupler from @Bratitude, which I think will work better than the one that I designed and made. I'm really not a machinist or a CAD guy, so my work was simply a matter of necessity.

A question at this point is what major components will I use other than the Leaf motor and inverter. I am considering using hardware from Thunderstruck EV, since I've had such good experiences with them in the past. They released a new Master Control Unit (Battery Management Systems :: Master Control Unit) that seems really cool, but I'll need to get a few BMS slaves if I go that route. I'll still need to get a charger and DC-DC converter, as well. If I go with the MCU, I'll use a 2500w TSM charger (or two) and a Volt DC-DC, all of which the MCU can control. That all gets pretty expensive, though.

The other option I'm considering is using a Resolve Controller (Resolve Controller — Resolve-EV). I'll need to pick up a Leaf battery pack and the 2013+ charger+DC-DC unit, but I'll have everything needed to run the car with just that.

I don't like the idea of Leaf batteries, though, so I'm still waffling on that. My MG gets up to 50 miles of range, which isn't much. The Mustang has a lot more room for batteries, so I want to take advantage of that and shoot for 100+ miles of range. The car originally had (and still has one, probably not original) an A code 289 (2 barrel carburetor, v8), but it's pretty far gone... even the freeze plugs are completely rusted through. I'd like to match the original performance, which should be quite easy with the right batteries. I need something dense around 360v.

I also want to do some significant mechanical upgrades on the car itself. It has power brakes and power steering, and I intend to preserve that functionality using an iBooster and an EPAS setup for the Mustang. I've used vacuum pumps and hydroelectric power steering pumps in the past, but I'll be going for a much cleaner setup this time. The car also has factory air conditioning, and I'd be thrilled to reuse the original evaporator and blower inside the cabin with a high voltage AC compressor.

After working so much on the suspension in the MG, I finally built a 4 link with coilovers for it. That had such an incredible impact on the performance of the vehicle and my ability to tune the suspension to handle the batteries that I've pretty much decided to install a 4 link (likely parallel for clearance) in this Mustang, as well. Additionally, I'll probably be getting a narrowed Ford 8.8 axle to allow for a much higher axle ratio with a limited slip. Right now the car has an 8", which has a limited selection. I can get all of the way up to a 5.13:1 gear ratio (or higher, maybe...) with the 8.8, which will match nicely with second gear for the 3.03 transmission that I will be using.

I'll probably update the front suspension while I'm working on all of this so that I can more easily tune it, as well. Lots of people have used a Mustang II IFS in the past in these cars, but it has plenty of issues and is pretty old at this point. I'm going to be looking at other options in that same vein.

So, there's the basket case of a project I'm starting. I have some rust repair to do on the car, which I'll get cranking on when the weather warms up. For now I'm planning and gathering parts as I see deals.

EDIT: The MCU apparently does not include the functionality of the VCU (VCU for UQM Motor). Still, it's a neat package. I have a VCU on hand, so no big deal.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Sounds like a candidate for Fords crate e motor and stuff from a current emustang or that hatchback stationwagonish whatever thing they are doing.


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

A code 289 is a factory 4 barrel carburetor


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

GE11 said:


> A code 289 is a factory 4 barrel carburetor


I think you're right, thanks  I got mixed up typing. The engine that's in there now is a 2 barrel, and the C4 that came with the car (but not in it...) is from a Falcon. I don't feel bad about ditching the drive train.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

piotrsko said:


> Sounds like a candidate for Fords crate e motor and stuff from a current emustang or that hatchback stationwagonish whatever thing they are doing.


Is that motor for sale, yet? I didn't see it on the Ford Performance site.

EDIT: Found it here: ELUMINATOR MACH E ELECTRIC MOTOR. I don't want a transverse setup, though. It's also super expensive with no inverter... I don't think it's a great fit for what I want to do.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

piotrsko said:


> Sounds like a candidate for Fords crate e motor and stuff from a current emustang or that hatchback stationwagonish whatever thing they are doing.


But Ford doesn't offer a crate electric motor... only the complete front drive from the Mach E "stationwagonish thing" (branded "Eluminator" when sold by Ford Performance), which is useless in this Mustang if any of the original chassis design is kept.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

jbman said:


> Found it here: ELUMINATOR MACH E ELECTRIC MOTOR. I don't want a transverse setup, though. It's also super expensive with no inverter... I don't think it's a great fit for what I want to do.


I agree that the this unit is completely unsuitable for a RWD car with a live beam axle... but I'll note that the price seems very reasonable for what it is (motor plus transaxle) for people who want that. Any new electric motor of comparable power will at least as expensive, without any transmission at all.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

brian_ said:


> I agree that the this unit is completely unsuitable for a RWD car with a live beam axle... but I'll note that the price seems very reasonable for what it is (motor plus transaxle) for people who want that. Any new electric motor of comparable power will at least as expensive, without any transmission at all.


Regarding the price, that's fair. There are suitable used options that make buying new unattractive, but that's not an issue specific to this motor. I sure wouldn't be opposed to a used "ELUMINATOR" motor if it weren't for the whole transverse thing, though.


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## Bratitude (Jan 23, 2020)

This should be fun. there’s also all the openinverter stuff, zombie vcu (full can control) and replacement board for the leaf inverter.

I’m running a ibooster, instead of adapting the break lines, I made an adapter for my brats original master cylinder. Just a few hours on the lathe.









Also did you order a coupler beforehand? I just sent you an adapter plate only.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Bratitude said:


> This should be fun. there’s also all the openinverter stuff, zombie vcu (full can control) and replacement board for the leaf inverter.
> 
> I’m running a ibooster, instead of adapting the break lines, I made an adapter for my brats original master cylinder. Just a few hours on the lathe.
> View attachment 128096
> ...


I did order the coupler earlier! I like the adapter idea a lot. The problem is that my brother has the lathe, so I have to pin him down to turn the part. I’ll see what the lines are; I don’t mind cutting and flaring some new nuts on. The Mustang also has a single bowl master cylinder with drum brakes, so it has to go regardless. Not only that, but I hate working on drums, and I want to move to discs on all 4 corners…


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## Bratitude (Jan 23, 2020)

jbman said:


> I did order the coupler earlier! I like the adapter idea a lot. The problem is that my brother has the lathe, so I have to pin him down to turn the part. I’ll see what the lines are; I don’t mind cutting and flaring some new nuts on. The Mustang also has a single bowl master cylinder with drum brakes, so it has to go regardless. Not only that, but I hate working on drums, and I want to move to discs on all 4 corners…


okay sweet just making sure  

My ibooster was from a Chevy volt, so the lines where huge and strange size. But the Tesla ones seems to be a m10(?) I think, so should be much easier to adapt lines to.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Bratitude said:


> okay sweet just making sure
> 
> My ibooster was from a Chevy volt, so the lines where huge and strange size. But the Tesla ones seems to be a m10(?) I think, so should be much easier to adapt lines to.


My booster is out of a Honda Civic, so hopefully the lines are pretty normal. I'll figure that out when it comes in.


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## ejohnnyt (Sep 1, 2021)

Hello: I have done an ev conversion on my 1965 Falcon Sedan Delivery and I get about 100 miles on it. My car is posted on EV List
Thanks,John T.


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## Struktv (10 mo ago)

ejohnnyt said:


> Hello: I have done an ev conversion on my 1965 Falcon Sedan Delivery and I get about 100 miles on it. My car is posted on EV List
> Thanks,John T.


Sorry what is EV List? Keen to take a look at this at strongly considering converting my 1974 Falcon Sedan.


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## floydr (Jun 21, 2021)

EV Photo Album: Our Electric Cars on the Web Current Total 4659 Vehicles of coverted vehicles
later floyd


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Struktv said:


> Sorry what is EV List? Keen to take a look at this at strongly considering converting my 1974 Falcon Sedan.


It looks like this might be the car: John's 1965 Ford Falcon Sedan Delivery

Beautiful conversion! I love the square body Falcons. My brother has a '66 sedan that he's building, but I've never seen a delivery one.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

ejohnnyt said:


> Hello: I have done an ev conversion on my 1965 Falcon Sedan Delivery and I get about 100 miles on it.





jbman said:


> It looks like this might be the car: John's 1965 Ford Falcon Sedan Delivery


Nice work. 

Just to clarify a couple of things in the specs... a voltage specification and a typo in the weight:


> 48 271 Ah, 3.20 Volt, Lithium Iron Phosphate
> 200 mm wide,172mm high, 72mm thick.
> 5.8kg


I didn't recognize the cells from these specs, but it looks like these might be CATL prismatics or something very similar. 3.2 V is a typical nominal voltage for LiFePO4 cells, so 48 of them in series would have a nominal voltage of 154 V. All of the rest of the voltage specs (including System Voltage) say "144 V"; the equipment may be nominally rated for 144 V, but the system is operating over a voltage range with the nominal value at 154 V.



> Curb Weight30,100 Pounds _(13,681 Kilograms)_


That's presumably something like just an extra zero, with an actual weight of 3,010 pounds (_1,365 kg_).


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

I can't find the 1964-1965 Falcon Sedan Delivery in my favourite source of classic car specifications, but it looks like the corresponding 2-door wagon (which would be a bit heavier due to more glass and interior) in base version weighed 1254 kg / 2765 lbs. It looks like John's conversion didn't add much weight (to reach 1,365 kg / 3,010 lb), even with the big battery (for a DIY conversion and only 154 V): 279 kilograms of mass and 119 litres of volume (plus structure, enclosure, interconnects, etc), and 41.6 kWh (nominal). With similar components coming out a Mustang, the conversion weight gain could be similar.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

I've been thinking a lot about this project, and it just occurred to me that I might be better off just building IRS for the rear and installing the complete Leaf and transaxle back there. Since the gas tank makes up the trunk floor, it would be plenty easy to fit things back there without much cutting, at least initially...

It might be worth at least test fitting something.

EDIT: I've never built an IRS system, but if I'm going to go through all of this work to patch the car up and make it nice, I might as well spend a bit more time on drivetrain layout instead of assuming the same old same old...


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## Bratitude (Jan 23, 2020)

A de dion axle might be worth looking into doing in that case. Building a custom irs can be a big undertaking, and may only result in a mild handling improvements.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

No point in reinventing the wheel, so to speak. 

Talk them into selling a partial kit:






1964½-1970 MUSTANG IRS - HEIDTS


HIGH HORSEPOWER INDEPENDENT REAR SUSPENSION COMPLETE BASE KIT WHY HEIDTS PRO-G IRS Do you really want to go fast and out-handle everyone else on the autocross or road race course in your first generation Mustang? Full independent rear suspension is the only way to go. HEIDTS now has a High...




www.heidts.com


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Oh now an IRS is a acceptable?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Didn't say it was acceptable, nor is it my call on what he does on the car - it's his project. I said there was no point in doing a suspension design and build from scratch when someone's done it and it's available to buy.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

remy_martian said:


> No point in reinventing the wheel, so to speak.
> 
> Talk them into selling a partial kit:
> 
> ...


I doubt they'd sell a partial, but it would be pretty convenient if they were willing. I'm also considering getting a setup from a subaru legacy or something of that sort. Whatever I get will have to be hacked up to mount the Leaf motor and transaxle. There's potentially enough space to run the entire stack, which would make a Resolve controller pretty attractive with the 160kW inverter that the new Leafs (Leaves...?) have.

If I don't end up putting the Leaf motor and transaxle in the back, I'll just build a 4 link.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

jbman said:


> I doubt they'd sell a partial, but it would be pretty convenient if they were willing. I'm also considering getting a setup from a subaru legacy or something of that sort. Whatever I get will have to be hacked up to mount the Leaf motor and transaxle.


Yes, and the Heidts setup - in addition to being a marginal suspension design - uses the final drive housing as the main structure of the subframe, so by the time you adapted it to any EV drive unit you would have nothing but the hub carriers and maybe hub-bearing units left of the Heidts kit. You might as well just pick hub carriers from any IRS and build your own subframe and control arms; the obvious choice would be the hub carriers from the drive unit donor, because then you could use the hub-bearing units as well and thus the donor's axle shafts.

The Leaf isn't a great choice for suspension because its front suspension is a MacPherson strut system, but if you're willing to work with that or to make your own hub carriers you could still use the Leaf hub-bearing units and thus the axle shafts. The Leaf has a wider rear track dimension than a 1965 Mustang (and the track is determined by the combination of drive unit, axle shafts, and hubs), but that would probably work, given that people usually want wider tires and bulging fenders on these cars anyway.

If you want someone who has worked out packaging an IRS into a classic Mustang and adapting IRS from a newer car, a few people have done it with the 1999-2004 SVT Cobra, and now with the 2015+ regular production Mustang suspension (called the S550). Unfortunately, much of their work is specific to the final drive, and you wouldn't be using that. The 1999-2004 Cobra system was designed to fit in a car designed for a beam axle, but the control arms look really long - I doubt they would work with an EV drive unit, and that suspension was not highly regarded anyway. The 2015+ (S550) system was designed in conjunction with a new body structure, so fit in a classic Mustang might be a major challenge.

1999-2004 SVT Cobra:









Here's an forum discussion about putting the S550 (2015+) IRS into various vehicles (the original poster's target is a 1967 Mustang) - note that this usually means custom control arms, so they are using the S550 design but really only using the hub-bearing unit and hub carrier components of the S550 suspension.
_Grassroots Motorsports_: Looking for S550 Mustang IRS Swap Info
I'll note that while GRM is generally the home of people who actually build and use stuff (no interest in exotics or show cars there), that project apparently didn't get anywhere, because it's not trivial.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

brian_ said:


> Yes, and the Heidts setup - in addition to being a marginal suspension design - uses the final drive housing as the main structure of the subframe, so by the time you adapted it to any EV drive unit you would have nothing but the hub carriers and maybe hub-bearing units left of the Heidts kit. You might as well just pick hub carriers from any IRS and build your own subframe and control arms; the obvious choice would be the hub carriers from the drive unit donor, because then you could use the hub-bearing units as well and thus the donor's axle shafts.
> 
> The Leaf isn't a great choice for suspension because its front suspension is a MacPherson strut system, but if you're willing to work with that or to make your own hub carriers you could still use the Leaf hub-bearing units and thus the axle shafts. The Leaf has a wider rear track dimension than a 1965 Mustang (and the track is determined by the combination of drive unit, axle shafts, and hubs), but that would probably work, given that people usually want wider tires and bulging fenders on these cars anyway.
> 
> ...


Thanks for those links. Frankly, my preference is to get the control arms, hubs, and mounts from some RWD/AWD car and then build a subframe frame to mount them around the Leaf setup. The Leaf motor and transaxle are considerably larger than any of these center sections, so I'd end up cutting away 90% of the structure and rebuilding it. I don't think there would be a ton of benefit. I'd have to figure out the brakes if I were to use the Heidts setup, as well, since they're inboard.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

jbman said:


> Frankly, my preference is to get the control arms, hubs, and mounts from some RWD/AWD car and then build a subframe frame to mount them around the Leaf setup. The Leaf motor and transaxle are considerably larger than any of these center sections, so I'd end up cutting away 90% of the structure and rebuilding it. I don't think there would be a ton of benefit.


That makes sense to me.



jbman said:


> I'd have to figure out the brakes if I were to use the Heidts setup, as well, since they're inboard.


I had ignored the inboard brakes, but that's a good point.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Well, this is going to be more of a restoration, first. I tore out most of the interior, and the rust is worse than it looked initially (no surprise, there...). I don't want to spend 20k on a perfectly good car just to tear it up, though, so I'll take my time with this.

The car is going to need floor pans, front and rear, both sides. I'm sure that I could patch some of it, but right now I'm planning on having to replace all of it with full length pans. It also needs patching on both quarters, some in the rear wheel arches, and the driver side sail panel into the quarter. The leaf spring mount is mostly gone on the back right corner. It looks like the car was subjected to some pretty wacky repairs back in the day, so I chipped a quarter inch of body filler off of the driver side quarter - less on the passenger side.

It's a good thing they make patch panels for basically everything. My plasma cutter gets here on Monday, so I'll finish tearing the interior apart and get after it.

On another note, I spent more time looking at the rear end of the car, and I don't think that I could reasonably get a Leaf motor and transaxle back there unless I use an EM61. I want more power than I would get out of the matching inverter, so I'm not sure what direction I'll ultimately end up going. A Tesla drive unit would be pretty cliche, but it would meet my power goals and fit nicely, too... What other options are there? Lexus hybrid transmission? Bolt? Something else? I'd prefer something more modern, so no forklift motors or anything of the sort at this point. That's all relatively far away given the extent of the repairs that need to be done, but I'd like to think ahead and get parts.

My iBooster and the connector came in, so I set that aside for later.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

More pictures...


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Yup - my '68 fastback had a railroad tie for a right rear spring mount when I bought it at an auction, uninspected. Trunk floor was rusted out completely.

Falcons and Mustangs are notorious for their Flintstones car floors.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

remy_martian said:


> Yup - my '68 fastback had a railroad tie for a right rear spring mount when I bought it at an auction, uninspected.
> 
> Falcons and Mustangs are notorious for their Flintstones car floors.


Yeah it's pretty bad. I've seen worse, really. But I've seen a lot better, too, haha. I forgot to mention the cowl vents, but that's almost assumed at this point.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Oh, wow. Someone clearly pulled a fast one to make some quick "collector car" bucks at some point. 😬

You'll have a new, Taiwanese, car after you replace all that.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

remy_martian said:


> View attachment 128429
> 
> 
> Oh, wow. Someone clearly pulled a fast one to make some quick "collector car" bucks at some point. 😬
> ...


Yeah, that one is actually pretty offensive. The sail panel didn't actually connect to the quarter under the body filler, which is outrageous in a unibody like this. I found two layers of carpet in the car, so someone did a quick flip at some point. Perhaps some kind of low effort restoration in the past...

There's a guy here in town that scraps vintage Fords, so there's actually a pretty good chance that I could get all original steel to patch this up. I'll have to reach out to him and see.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Or, you can just buy all of the replacement and patch panels in one coordinated set, with all of the metal work done:
Dynacorn 1965 Ford Mustang Fastback - MSRP $17,500 USD

_Clarification: while I called this a "set" as an alternative to buying every panel of the car individually, it's actually a completely assembled body shell._


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Every one of those panels in the Dynacorn "set" has to be hand fitted, so negatory on "all of the metal work done." Try fitting front quarter panels to those...

Original sheet metal is superior -- if you can find it.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Even if I have to patch it up, I'd rather do it this way


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Well, I got some cutting done today on that particularly nasty quarter on the drivers side. I need to repair some rust that was under the sail panel, and the inner wheelhouse also needs attention. The more I cut, the more obvious it becomes how quick-and-dirty this repair was. The back of the skin was lap welded with an overlap of something like 6". With all the bondo and the vinyl top, it's no wonder this thing was rusted through. Anyway, I'll cut it back to good metal and butt weld a patch in for the quarter after I replace the outer wheel house. I'll need to remove the chrome trim for the drip rail before I can finish cutting away the rusted sail panel and replace it.


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## Russco (Dec 23, 2008)

jbman said:


> Well, I got some cutting done today on that particularly nasty quarter on the drivers side. I need to repair some rust that was under the sail panel, and the inner wheelhouse also needs attention. The more I cut, the more obvious it becomes how quick-and-dirty this repair was. The back of the skin was lap welded with an overlap of something like 6". With all the bondo and the vinyl top, it's no wonder this thing was rusted through. Anyway, I'll cut it back to good metal and butt weld a patch in for the quarter after I replace the outer wheel house. I'll need to remove the chrome trim for the drip rail before I can finish cutting away the rusted sail panel and replace it.


Well, here's my take on your Mustang. I own a 1965 Mustang, second owner, 70,000 miles, absolutely no rust, needs nothing. There's a ton of 1965-66 Mustangs here in California, so why would anyone purchase a POS that belongs in the junkyard and requires a full restoration and maximum labor?

I don't get it and I own 28 antique cars with no rust and no restoration needed.

Besides, this forum is about converting cars to electric, not an auto restoration forum.

Sigh....


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Sigh...

Rustangs are popular in the roadsalt belt - my first car build at 14 years of age was its older sibling, a Ford Falcon...had the same Flintstones-car floor. It's a normal part of car restoration in those areas; not everyone has $30,000 for a "restorable" California car -- when you can pick up a "rustorable" for under $3k and throw in some sweat equity, money's better spent on a decent motor and battery pieces.

It's an electric car build and is perfectly welcome here. We all start at varying points in our builds and he's documenting his.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Russco said:


> Well, here's my take on your Mustang. I own a 1965 Mustang, second owner, 70,000 miles, absolutely no rust, needs nothing. There's a ton of 1965-66 Mustangs here in California, so why would anyone purchase a POS that belongs in the junkyard and requires a full restoration and maximum labor?
> 
> I don't get it and I own 28 antique cars with no rust and no restoration needed.
> 
> ...


If I wanted to buy a fully restored, converted car, I could. If I wanted to own dozens of restored antique cars, I could buy them. I think you miss the point. If you don’t like looking at pictures as I build my car, then move along. I won’t be offended. I’m neither forcing you to view nor comment. It’s a build forum. It’s for build threads. As in I AM BUILDING SOMETHING. That’s the point. If I buy it, I didn’t build it.


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## dstevenslv (Nov 21, 2018)

GE11 said:


> A code 289 is a factory 4 barrel carburetor


The base 289 was a two barrel, specifically an Autolite 2100. There was a step up, the four barrel, Autolite 4100. The difference besides the carb is the manifold. Otherwise anything on that 289 was either a dealer add on (common back then) or a ”day two” mod. I’ve restored classic Mustangs and currently rebuilding a stock 289 with a 2100 though adding a Sniper and ditching the carb.

After than I’m looking to get a Leaf salvage and a rusty gen 1 Pony and put a basic package together.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

The 4 barrel had a hotter cam in it, iirc


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## dstevenslv (Nov 21, 2018)

remy_martian said:


> The 4 barrel had a hotter cam in it, iirc


The stock A and C code cars had the same part number cam just different carbs and manifold. The K code (or Hipo) version had several stronger, spicier parts including the cam.

OP before you cut too much more off brace that body. Otherwise it won’t easily line back up. What’s left of it anyhow… Grab a copy of what's called the Liskey diagram and that will give you the base measurements.









67-68 Dimensions - MustangForums.com


Classic Mustangs (Tech) - 67-68 Dimensions - Im building a 68 fastback from all new parts. I researched for a couple months, and then built a frame jig using the dimensions from the Ford service manual shown below. I drew up my plan in CAD, and everything seemed to check out. I build the frame...



mustangforums.com





The legal VIN is in a couple places on the front apron. Visible on drivers and the hidden on passengers. Many will look at the warranty tag on the door (as NV did with mine when I titled it here, they didn’t care about the apron) but technically thats not what Ford considered the legal VIN location. May want to graft that original metal with the VIN into any new metal or some states many let you restamp it. Don’t know how many states know the factory VIN location though I’ve heard some do.

The family 67 I now have had sail panel extra thick filler and a shoddy rear quarter fit from a collision decades ago. When it was just a car and not collectable. All So Cal until it moved over with me to the desert. 

Looks like a fun project. Interested to see the progress and which EV parts you decide.


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