# Adaptor Plate



## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

While precision measuring and cnc is a much better method, "caveman" style can work. I would fit the plate to the motor first, and come up with a coupler. You can then stand the motor on end, transmission end up and coupler engaged, and the two mating shafts will be pretty close. Standing the motor up keeps the shafts aligned better. Next, clamp the plate to your gear box and mark you bolt holes and trace the shape of your bell housing. You can really step up your game if you can get a pair of dowel sleeves into the mix so that your two shafts line up nicely when the motor is no longer on end.


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## sergiu tofanel (Jan 13, 2014)

The critical part of making the adapter plate is making sure that the motor shaft and the transmission input shaft are perfectly aligned. This is easier said than done. I have seen people try to eyeball the two shafts with disastrous results. Here is my favorite method. Start watching at time 3:00. It should be self explanatory.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq6WcSZX_t4


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I did my adapter plates for my 96 Civic EV myself. I start with the motor end, cut the plates and drilled the holes. Then with everything bolted to the motor, I slid the coupling on then aligned it onto the transmission. I then adjusted it until the motor and transmission spun smoothly then I drilled the mounting holes for the transmission.

Drilling the plates:
http://civicity.blogspot.com/2009/06/adapter-plates-20.html

Aligning the motor:
http://civicity.blogspot.com/2009/06/getting-ready-for-assembly.html


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

I did the motor end first as well as the shaft support bearing then the flywheel bolt holes . Then the motor keyway for the coupling . I was lucky for the transmission plate someone made a exact cad drawing which i printed full size center punch and drilled  ... Final spinup left to do though ...


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## bwjunkie (Jul 31, 2013)

It is an interesting topic, I did mine somewhat like the video link, and it seems to work okay, but I still don't see how the alignment is exact. because the tranny spline shaft itself is able to flex slightly in any direction, especially when the alignment is being done with such heavy pieces involved, also the clutch plate allows tilting right? so when aligning the trans to mark the drill holes, how do we know that the spline is sitting in it's exact center?

I think it's useful to measure the distance from the spline center to the trans mounting holes, and use these measurements to make sure the markings you've made on the plate appear accurate.

Ultimately some sort of lightweight template could be made with a small hole to fit snug on the spline shaft without flexing it, then a template drawing of the trans mounting holes could be made.

josh


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

bwjunkie said:


> It is an interesting topic, I did mine somewhat like the video link, and it seems to work okay, but I still don't see how the alignment is exact. because the tranny spline shaft itself is able to flex slightly in any direction, especially when the alignment is being done with such heavy pieces involved, also the clutch plate allows tilting right? so when aligning the trans to mark the drill holes, how do we know that the spline is sitting in it's exact center?
> 
> I think it's useful to measure the distance from the spline center to the trans mounting holes, and use these measurements to make sure the markings you've made on the plate appear accurate.
> 
> ...


The flexing from the weight is why it is nice to stand the motor straight up and slide the transmission and coupler onto the motor. The shafts will be aligned and there will not be any flex. This does assume that you already have a nice coupler. Assuming that the plate is truly flat, clamping the plate to the tranny will help reduce run out as well. This is a cave man type approach and there are far better methods of aligning the shafts, but as caveman methods go, it works rather well.


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Guys
Thanks for all of the posts, they have been most informative if I have to go the manual route. There might be a private guy in town who has a cnc machine. He may not be able to cut the aluminium plate, but I am sure he will be able to mark the holes. Does anyne have the exact measurements for the motor end holes of the adaptor plate for a warp 9. Even a diagram. something for me to compare my measurements to, so I can see if my method is accurate.
Thanks


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

russatt said:


> Hi Guys
> Thanks for all of the posts, they have been most informative if I have to go the manual route. There might be a private guy in town who has a cnc machine. He may not be able to cut the aluminium plate, but I am sure he will be able to mark the holes. Does anyne have the exact measurements for the motor end holes of the adaptor plate for a warp 9. Even a diagram. something for me to compare my measurements to, so I can see if my method is accurate.
> Thanks


the motor end is well documented....
http://evolveelectrics.com/PDF/NetGain/WarP9_Drawing.pdf

the outline of the bell housing doesn't have to be super accurate, the centering of the motor mount relative to the positioning dowels in the bell housing DOES. The 'magic number', depth of the face of the clutch/fly face relative to the bell face is also critical for proper clutch function.... so the thickness of the adapter plate, and possible spacer ring, are critical relative to the face of the motor hub to set the clutch plate at the right depth..... so the motor hub is also really hard to do right without a good metal lathe to get an accurate length from face to back, also because the flywheel mounting holes/hub have to be accurately centered, and you need a keyway cut to match the motor shaft.....


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Am I correct in reading off the diagram that it says the drive end mount holes are in a 8.4" diameter and at 90 deg to each other, so from the center on the shaft would then be a radius of 4.2".


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## bwjunkie (Jul 31, 2013)

I'm looking at the diagram I was given, looks like how you described it 4.2" radius to 3/8 mounting holes?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28494852/WarP_9_Eng_Drawing.pdf

josh


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

EV Adapters share many similarities
______________________________________________________ 

Like DT said, all adapters are started off of one point. That point is the centerline (centerpoint of the crankshaft/motor drive end shaft/transmission input shaft.

EVERYTHING is laid out off of that magic location..........

You measure the largest piece: The bellhousing or motor A-B-C-or D face and whatever is largest, add a few inches and buy your plate.

Most transmissions have two mounts, front plate and a rear one at the crossmember. (Needing a less thick plate)

BUT the motor can have either one (needing a thick plate)or two (Needing a thinner plate) mounts. THAT will determine the thickness of your adapter plate.

Most plates are 1/2" thru 1" thick, not counting any spacers.

(If this is the kind of information you are looking for, tell me and I will continue on with the actual layout method)


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi. yes please. The more information the better. Also this might sound like a silly question, but is the coupler (motor to gearbox, assume clutchless) made out of aluminium or steel.


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## bwjunkie (Jul 31, 2013)

For my adaptor it goes:
Steel hub on motor shaft
aluminum spacer plate (it's more than just a spacer, it helps the small diameter steel hub to reach out to the large diameter mounting holes on the clutch plate)
composite clutch plate with splined hole to fit to transmission spline shaft


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

1- ALWAYS lay out off of the shaft centerline. Goes for both units, trans and motor

2- Center punch shaft center on plate blank. When possible, lay out transmission bellhousing holes first. Drill them. Then using the same centerpunch mark, lay out the motor mounting holes. Drill them,

3- AFTER this has been done, you can cut the center hole out to what ever the motor needs. Be that a step, just the shaft, or the shaft with the drive hub on it. (My choice) 

4- When the bell housing is mounted to the plate, mount the transmission too. That way you can measure the shaft to plate offset. that will tell you how thick to make any spacers between the motor and the plate,

Please note this is a bare bones instruction. Be careful, and accurate,

The drive hub is the MOST important piece by far as it can NOT wobble.....any. Be Very careful here as most persons can not make a good one in their home shop. (Unless it might be a clutchless type.)

Miz


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