# [EVDL] bad adapter



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

If a motor is a 9 inch or smaller, the pilot bearing is normally place into 
the motor coupler because there is not enough inside diameter of the motor 
coupler where the transmission pilot shaft to go all the way through and 
insert into the a pilot bushing that is inserted into the output shaft of 
the motor.

The standard pilot bushing will not fit into a Warp 9 output shaft unless it 
is turn down and press fit into the shaft. This pilot bushing is a cast 
bronze oil bearing which is a porous cast which oil can saturated the whole 
casting.

You let the bronze oil bearing soak in a 90 weight gear oil for a day or two 
before installing. Before inserting the transmission pilot shaft into this 
pilot shaft bearing, pack it with a high temperature white bearing grease.

The transmission pilot shaft should not butt tight into the pilot shaft 
bushing. There should at least between 1/8 to 3/16 of a inch space 
clearance. This allows for the thrust movement while acceleration and 
de-acceleration.

My WarP 11 and GE 11 motor allows to have the transmission pilot shaft to go 
clear through the motor coupler and into the output shaft of the motor. 
This allows to have a less thicker adapter plate then the WarP 9 motor.

In some flywheel, pressure plate, and through out bearing assembly kits, 
some companies have been putting in a needle bearing pilot shaft bushing 
with these assembly kits. Many master mechanics will not use them and use a 
cast oil bronze pilot bushing on transmission that has a floating pilot 
shaft which will wear out these bearings very quickly.

In a non-floating pilot shaft, your alignment should be not more then 0.0001 
of a inch. This requires alignment pins to be install that matches the pin 
holes in the transmission bell housing and in the adapter plate. Also there 
should be a alignment pin in the flywheel that is install between two 
flywheel bolts that mate to the motor coupler which also should be drill for 
this alignment pin.

In some flywheels, there is a recess in the flywheel that is semi-press fit 
over a engine crank flange which center lines the flywheel.

Do not relied on the flywheel bolts and/or bell housing bolts to center the 
transmission shaft to the motor shaft. These bolts only have clearances 
which will allow these two units to be 0.03 out of center line.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ben Jarrrett" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 1:41 PM
Subject: [EVDL] bad adapter


>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> So I decided to ditch my clutchless adapter from 
> www.evcouplerconnection.com since
> I'm putting my clutch back in. I was also concerned about alignment.
>
> I took my tranny to the tranny shopt to have a different input shaft put 
> on.
> They called today and asked if I had a bad pilot bushing in my motor. 
> They noticed
> uneven wear between the input and main shaft in the tranny that shows an 
> alignment
> issue.
>
> Well, I'm glad I decided to do this after 40 miles. I'm hoping I didn't 
> do any
> bad damage to the warp 9. It sounds fine up to 5000 RPM. I'm guessing 
> the
> needle bearings in the tranny are the weak link.
>
> So hopefully my new canev adapter will align correctly.
>
> Thought I'd share this with others...
>
> -ben
>
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

This is probably a dumb question but how exactly do you tell if the adaptor
to transmission installation is up to 0.003" off? Where would you put the
calipers or depth gauge considering irregularities in the machining of the
bell housing and adapter plate? What kind of tool could be used?

Curious because most adaptors I assume are a less than perfect faximilie of
the trans bell face, mine is.


> "Roland Wiench" <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > If a motor is a 9 inch or smaller, the pilot bearing is normally place into
> > the motor coupler because there is not enough inside diameter of the motor
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I'm curious about your decision to go back to using a clutch ... as I am in
the process of going clutchless. For me I wanted a simpler more efficient
setup and to reduce noise. The flywheel was making way too much noise in
the car (the R5 was a mid engine, so that's part of it). But, I've been a
little on the fence because I think it will be more difficult to shift (even
if I have to shift less often as I'm dumping 700 lbs to go lithium). I
guess alignment is more critical in a clutchless design ... what were some
of your other reasons, or was it just this?
- Dan


-----
Dan Gallagher
http://www.evalbum.com/3854

--
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| Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
| Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I would go with the clutch just to shift more quickly and easily and
with less wear on the synchros.

That really depends on the transmission, though; some transmissions
work OK clutchless, while others really struggle.



> Danpatgal <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I'm curious about your decision to go back to using a clutch ... as I am =
> in
> > the process of going clutchless. For me I wanted a simpler more effici=
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Danpatgal wrote:
> > I'm curious about your decision to go back to using a clutch ... as I am in
> > the process of going clutchless. For me I wanted a simpler more efficient
> > setup and to reduce noise. The flywheel was making way too much noise in
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Perhaps a dumb question, but how does a flywheel by itself generate noise?



> Danpatgal <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > I'm curious about your decision to go back to using a clutch ... as I am in
> > the process of going clutchless. For me I wanted a simpler more efficient
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

My reason to go back to the clutch is mostly suburban drive-ability. I could
upshift ok (1-2 seconds) when clutchless, but downshifting was a struggle. I don't have
any other loads on the motor besides the transmission either. I want
to be able to shift quicker and downshift without trying to rev match.

Also, the clutch does allow a mechanical disconnect in a panic environment.

I hate that I'm putting 50lbs back in (flywheel is over 20lbs, plus pressure
plate, disc, pedal, linkage, etc), but it's the right thing to do for me.

How is the flywheel making noise? Are you talking about a bad throwout bearing
or pilot bushing/bearing? Is it the starter ring (I had the machine shop
remove mine - saved me 2 lbs!).

-ben





> Danpatgal wrote:
> 
> > I'm curious about your decision to go back to using a clutch ... as I am in
> > the process of going clutchless. For me I wanted a simpler more efficient
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Ben Jarrrett <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > I hate that I'm putting 50lbs back in (flywheel is over 20lbs, plus pressure
> > plate, disc, pedal, linkage, etc), but it's the right thing to do for me.
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I looked into an aluminum flywheel. I'd like to try it someday, but I couldn't find a ready
made one for my jeep and having one made may cost more than I'm willing to spend at this time.

-ben




> Nathan Loofbourrow wrote:
> 
> > On May 1, 2012, at 3:40 PM, Ben Jarrrett <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

My van conversion had a clutch attached to the flywheel with simple hex bots. There was a timing inspection hole about 3/4" in diameter in the bell housing just beyond the diameter of the flywheel and in line with the hole. As the bolt heads whipped past the hole I got a bit of a siren effect - similar to the classic helicopter blade noise being interrupted by the tail boom making that whoop-whoop noise.

Plugging the hole with the hole plug (!) made it go away. Smoothing the bolt heads would probably work too - but much more difficult to do.

Regards, Martin Winlow
Herts, UK
http://www.evalbum.com/2092
www.winlow.co.uk





> Mark Warner wrote:
> 
> > Perhaps a dumb question, but how does a flywheel by itself generate noise?
> >
> ...


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