# Yamaha Big Bear 350 Quad bike



## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

I have been lurking on here for quite a while. Mostly in the car section. I have plans for an MG F conversion using a leaf motor in the future. However currently I am working on converting a 1987 Yamaha Big Bear 350.

As you can see in the photos I got it in quite a state. It was an impulse buy on Ebay and wasn't my wisest purchase. I bought it last August and have spent most of my time since then restoring every single piece on the bike. I have built my own electrolysis tank for removing rust and an electro-plating setup for plating nuts and bolts.

I am currently at the stage where I can actually work on the conversion part of the build. I have a 48v 4KW chinesium BLDC motor. The plan is to hook into the transfer gear via a belt drive to the motor. This way I can change the ratios if my initial maths was wrong.
I'm planning to use gel lead acid batteries, but might swap these out for something else if I can find something reasonable.

More posts to follow with a little more detail on installing the motor.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

I have a rough idea of where the motor will go. The plan is to fabricate brackets that will attached to the rear of the frame and hold the motor in line with the transfer gear.

The first step is to fabricate a bracket to hold the transfer gear in the position it would have originally been when it was attached to the ICE engine.

I am currently designing this part now, as you can see I have printed out a rough prototype just to verify my measurements. I am in the process of printing out a 2nd prototype with adjustments. The CAD model of this 2nd prototype is attached. The final bracket will need to have a cap on it, as originally this transfer gear would have been immersed in engine oil at the geared connection.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
Forget Lead Acid - waste of time and money

You need some battery modules from an EV - Nissan Leaf, Chevy Volt, Tesla


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Duncan said:


> Hi
> Forget Lead Acid - waste of time and money
> 
> You need some battery modules from an EV - Nissan Leaf, Chevy Volt, Tesla


I'm still pretty open on the battery front. For this quad I do need weight, so heavy batteries are less of an issue. Range is also less important.

I have been pricing up Leaf cells, you can get them for around £60 a cell in the UK at the moment. It works out more expensive up front, but I know I'll get way more usable KwHs from the pack.

I also thought about making up 18650 packs, but that seems to be quickly going out of fashion.

I heard that Ecocharger experimented with swapping out the lead acids in their quad bikes with lithium ion packs, but the loss of weight really affected their towing ability.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Change of plan in the Battery department. After having second thoughts on Lead Acids due to all the down sides to them I found some LG Chem E48 pouch cells going for a reasonable price on Ebay.

Going to be using them in a 13s2p setup for around 4.6Kwh storage. Much happier with the results these should give. It might actually give the bike a reasonable range, not that it is currently going to be road worthy.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Making some progress with the battery construction. I have decided to split the battery up into two sections to make it easier to mount. One 6s2p and one 7s2p. Just finished up making the smaller pack now as you can see from the photos.
I printed off the white holders in PETG, used aluminium busbars for most of the connections and copper for the first and last connection. The casing is 3mm acrylic. I didn't really design a very clever way to open and shut the pack so for now the top is just held on with duct tape.

I think for the larger pack I will place the holes for the cable glands a little more in line with the cells.

Also got the motor mounts back from the fabricator and those are installed now. The last thing left there is to get a sleeve made up for the transfer gear so I can attach a taper lock pulley.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Got the motor mounted today! First had to shorten the transfer gear a little.

I have tons more space that I thought I would have. Planning to place the bigger battery pack in front of the motor now.

I have also been playing with the idea of moving the motor lower down. Hopefully I could then place the 2nd battery pack above the motor and keep everything in the engine bay. Given that it will be chain driven(too close to use belt pulleys) the distance from the motor to the transfer gear doesn't matter as long as they are in the same plane.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Hi LrBen
Have you made further progress on your build? 

Cheers
Tyler


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

It's been slow progress so far. I managed to fit both the batteries in front of the motor which is fairly neat, pic attached. Spent most of my time in the last couple months fabricating a decent basket to hold the batteries in place.
Decided to also fibre glass the battery cases as they were a little susceptible to shock damage. 

I had to rewire the main power wires after a minor miscalculation at the start of my project meant the wires were about 3 times too small to carry the maximum potential amps. Currently just finishing this part off now, it has meant having to make some small modifications to the lids so the larger wires fit through.

Planning to get the controller, motor and batteries wired up on the desk before the end of the year. Then it should just be a case of throwing it back in the bike and away we go.

I want to make a slight change to how the motor is mounted, but that should be a simple matter of a couple holes and some bracer bars.

The last major hurdle to get the bike moving is to fabricate an adaptor to fit a taperlock pulley the transfer gear. The trouble is that the splines are JIS, and not many people around here are able to fabricate internal teeth, let alone to JIS dimensions.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Progress!!!

The battery BMS is now wired up and working, managed to put in a few hours of charge over the weekend. Charging will take a while at the moment, I just have a 4 amp charger for the 94AH battery pack. 
With the battery pack fibre glassed all that is left to do now on the battery side is to figure out how to reseal the tops now that the larger wire lugs get in the way of putting the lids back on.

The attached photo gives a fairly good view of the electrical side. The BMS and 12v fuse box is in the old air box, the 48v-12v converter is sitting on the rear where the original voltage regulator sat. The motor controller is mounted inside the fuel tank. The contactor is mounted just above where the motor will sit using a combination of angle iron, Mechano and 3d printed parts. Yes that is allot of chocolate box wiring connectors, once I get the wiring finalised I will change these to DTM or some other fancy automotive connectors.

The last hurdle was also overcome in the last week. The main shaft coming out of the transfer gear was machined down so that I can attach a standard taperlock sprocket. I am planning to have the motor back in next week and a test fit of the chain drive. If all goes well I should have a moving electric quad bike by next weekend.

Still allot left to do after that. But that is mostly aesthetic in nature. Top tip, don't let brake fluid drip on your nicely painted handle bars.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Loving your fab work and tucking things into existing places. Any pics of your battery boxes?

Sent from my moto g(7) plus using Tapatalk


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> Loving your fab work and tucking things into existing places. Any pics of your battery boxes?



Thanks. It kind of made sense for most of it. Although I do like the idea of reusing as much of the old bike as possible. I am planning to use the rear brake light switch in order to activate the regen braking. In this model they didn't have rear brake lights but the mount for the switch is still there. Should activate well before the mechanical brake has to do any work.

The battery boxes turned into a bit of a mess once I did the fibre glassing. I made up the basket before I fibre glassed them. So once that was on the basket was a tiny bit too narrow. Had to cut off a little bit to make it fit.
The top of the battery boxes is now also an issue. I had them all sorted nice and neatly before I had to change the main power wires to a much thicker gauge. Now the cable lugs are too large and hit the lids.
For the moment I am just leaving them off. I want the bike moving under its own power first. Then I'll go back and polish/redo things/not use any Mechano.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

It moves! Got the transfer gear all put back together this weekend and back into the bike. Chain is half a link too long, but that's a quick fix once a half link turns up.

Wired up the reverse switch as well. So I can go forward and backwards. Found that the mounts don't quite hold the motor stiff enough when the torque starts to increase, so the motor turns slightly and pushes against the transfer gear sprocket which then causes it all to jam up and the controller anti stall kicks in. You can see in the photo that the motor has already pushed up against the transfer gear sprocket a tiny bit.

I will add a threaded bar on the other side of the motor attached to the frame. Then I can finely tune the angle at which the motor is held.

This is the major building stage complete, it's just polish now.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Excellent progress, well done. What happened to the transfer gear to need putting back together? Will you put a guard of sorts over the chain to keep it cleanish and grease/lube off your legs? 3d printing candidate!

I'd consider a better mount for the motor that is a rigid connection between transfer case and motor, might make chain mounting difficult. And I'd have a small tensioner on the chain, a sprung or adjustable sprocket maybe, to keep a bit of slack in the chain but no slap etc. Easiest seems a slotted hole in the motor plate to slide a tension sprocket up/down. Needs to stay in position as on regen it will be under some load.

This quad has huge potential, really impressed! Also, I didn't realise it was 4wd before, double bonus. It'll be unstoppable. 

Cheers
Tyler


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Just wondering, and sorry for crashing your build, but would the motor fit other way round with the sensor lug between the transverse frame bars where the old mounts are (maybe removed) and then you can have a single solid plate mounting both transfer case and motor in 1 with easy access to the chain? Perhaps move the motor further off center line with a longer chain?

Cheers
Tyler


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> Excellent progress, well done. What happened to the transfer gear to need putting back together? Will you put a guard of sorts over the chain to keep it cleanish and grease/lube off your legs? 3d printing candidate!



I just had to press the transfer gear shaft out in order to get it machined. So had to press it back in. Planning to do some sort of guard. I was thinking about 3d printing something for it.



tylerwatts said:


> I'd consider a better mount for the motor that is a rigid connection between transfer case and motor, might make chain mounting difficult. And I'd have a small tensioner on the chain, a sprung or adjustable sprocket maybe, to keep a bit of slack in the chain but no slap etc. Easiest seems a slotted hole in the motor plate to slide a tension sprocket up/down. Needs to stay in position as on regen it will be under some load.


Yeah I am thinking of how I can make the mounts more rigid. There is a real weak point in how the motor mounts that I think can be remade. I kind of just bodged it on just to get the motor mounted. I'll see how the chain does once I shorten it, but I expect some sort of tensioner would be a good idea.



tylerwatts said:


> but would the motor fit other way round with the sensor lug between the transverse frame bars where the old mounts are (maybe removed) and then you can have a single solid plate mounting both transfer case and motor in 1 with easy access to the chain?


Unfortunatly that would mean cutting out some fairly major structural parts of the frame, or somehow extending the transfer gear shaft a long way.

The chain is actually fairly easy to remove and put back on at the moment. Where it goes over the transfer gear sprocket there is enough space to attach or detach the master link.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Had some good progress on this in the last few weeks. I did remake the motor mounts into something more rigid which made a big improvement.
It is now driving pretty quietly and for now I am happy with the chain tension.

Currently looking into a voltage drop issue which is causing some issues. As my amps increase the voltage will drop quite significantly. Enough to trigger the BMS low voltage protection and cut the power. It also seems quite low on power. I can stall the motor very easily by standing in front of one of the wheels.

Initially I put this down to some dodgy connections, especially to the BMS and my use of copper grease in the lugs. However with these all changed I still experience the voltage drop.

The cells are rated to 150Amp continuous discharge (3C) and they are setup in a 13s2p configuration. So I should be able to pull 300Amps continuous from the cells. This happens to be the max power draw from the motor. So there is plenty of capacity in the batteries.

I have noticed in the BMS that cell 13 is consistently the lowest voltage cell. With no load, the rest of the cells will sit with in 0.001v of each other. But cell 13 will be around 0.006v lower. 
Under load this gap will widen to 0.2v and it is usually this cell dipping below 3.2v that will cause the BMS low voltage protection to cut in. After talking to a friend it seems that the BMS low voltage setting for cells should be set to 2.5 rather than 3.2v. But that still doesn't explain the extend of the voltage drop.

I am planning to pull the battery pack out and double check the connections for each cell. Hopefully it is just a rubbish connection rather than a dead cell.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Fixed the voltage drop issue! Luckily it was just a case of replacing the main battery positive connector.

There is now a bit of voltage drop, but nothing unexplained under load. The cells are all finely balanced and the voltages on all cells drop evenly.

I have decided to move the BMS screen from under the seat to the dash, as it does actually contain some useful information such as speed. So to that end I have decided to 3d print a custom dash. In there I can also re-purpose the original dash lights for reverse and power lights. Currently half way through printing the different components.

There does seem to be some issues with motor power still, and the motor gets very hot after not all that much use. Almost too hot to touch. It will also struggle to start moving when facing uphill with me on it. 
I am going to look at the phase and hall wires, feels like maybe something isn't working quite right there.

Still lots to do on the bodywork, But I wanted to put some parts back on it to see how it would look.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Fixed the power issue. I changed the sprockets to change the ratio between the motor and the transfer gear, from 0.9ish to 2.375. Drops the theoretical max speed from 30mph to 18mph or so. But the torque is now insane. Won't take very long to get to that top speed! I believe max torque at the wheel would be 653nm in theory.

That's the last engineering hurdle done. I am very happy with performance and the HV side is holding up very well.

The last things to do now are mostly smallish things. I need to add in some relays to make the 3d printed dash lights work, change the last few choc box electrical connectors to super seals, adjust the brakes and then restore the frames and plastic bodywork.

I'll try and get some decent videos in the next few weeks.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Sounds great, well done! I look forward to the finished pics.

Can you tell us the motor specs? Seems something like a Golden Motor 10kw motor would give you the performance and some more speed to really make it fantastic. 30mph was about right to me.

Cheers
Tyler


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## Csecrist12 (Nov 22, 2019)

Excellent progress and good write ups. I really enjoyed a good read this morning along with the difficulties you had in the project. I'm curious on the project cost you had to endure? Maybe do a recap of all of the components in one place when it is all said and done so some may be able to use your information.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> Can you tell us the motor specs?


The motor is a 4kw BLDC motor, with a peak draw of 12kw. Max rpm of 2000, peak torque of 75nm. A fairly generic motor from aliexpress. With hind sight I probably would not chose this motor if I were to do this again (I have another quad already lined up, so it's likely). I would probably go up a bit in power. 
When I bought this motor I was not that far into the project and very new to the whole thing.



Csecrist12 said:


> I'm curious on the project cost you had to endure?


Currently the project cost is just over £3,400. Original budget was an optimistic £2,000.
The Costs are split into 5 categories. Just over £1,000 on the bike and restoration of it to a good condition.
Just under £2,000 for the motor, batteries and related wiring etc.
£170 on the drive train modifictations
£32 on 12v wiring since that was redone completely.
Just under £300 on mistakes, buying components that didn't fit quite right etc.

I expect there to be a few more costs to finish off the 12v wiring, make the chain guard, finally buy a right hand foot peg and register it for agricultural use.
I'll do another list once it is complete.

I have a short video of movement!
https://youtu.be/i9OxpLYsoVA

Once the fields dry out I'll be able to do some range testing.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Hi Lrben
That is decent output then.

Will you do another build thread for the new quad? I'm very impressed by QS Motor mid drive motors. The 3000W does up to 20kw without problems and they are releasing an 8000w motor also which would be perfect for a 4wd quad.

Thanks for sharing.

Cheers
Tyler


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> Will you do another build thread for the new quad? I'm very impressed by QS Motor mid drive motors. The 3000W does up to 20kw without problems and they are releasing an 8000w motor also which would be perfect for a 4wd quad.


My next project is still up the in air. But what ever it is I will make a thread for it. The Quad is an easy one to do, but I am also replacing the head gasket on my MG F at the moment, if the head on that turns out to be warped then that will jump to the top of the queue for electrification. 
I have also been looking into converting one of the tractors on the farm, a UTV would also be an useful conversion. I also would quite like a commutable vehicle as well if the MG doesn't happen, so perhaps a motorbike.
So one of those... I'll keep that QS motor in mind though if I do the quad.

There is still a bit to do on this project though, the cell voltage drop came back when I did a long range run last weekend. I noticed that the cell is also higher than the other cells when charging, by the same amount it drops by. So that might throw a big spanner in the works as I haven't been able to find any more of those E48 pouch cells.

Everything is on hold now though as I don't live close enough to the quad bike to get there with the current movement restrictions.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Obviously very limited progress recently. I can no longer make special trips to work on this, but am managing to put in an hour or two here and there when I am near the unit for work purposes.

I have decided to redo the braking system. My intention was to use the rear brake light switch to activate the motor regen. However this is just an on/off switch and the max motor regen is very strong. So I am going to remove the front brake lines and hook up a 5v pressure sensor to the brake master cylinder, this will then give me some finer control over the motor regen.
I was never very happy with how I redid the front brake system and it wasn't really fit for purpose. Given the low speed and non-road going nature I don't think they will be missed.
I will still have the rear brake for a mechanical back up and for the hand brake.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

LrBen said:


> I have decided to redo the braking system. My intention was to use the rear brake light switch to activate the motor regen. However this is just an on/off switch and the max motor regen is very strong. So I am going to remove the front brake lines and hook up a 5v pressure sensor to the brake master cylinder, this will then give me some finer control over the motor regen.
> I was never very happy with how I redid the front brake system and it wasn't really fit for purpose. Given the low speed and non-road going nature I don't think they will be missed.
> I will still have the rear brake for a mechanical back up and for the hand brake.


You could trigger regen from the rear brake, presumably using a spring and a position sensor on the mechanical linkage, and keep the more effective hydraulic front brake. I understand that this would require reworking the front brake system, but it would make much more sense to me: rear wheels electrically driven and braked (handling low-speed braking), front hydraulic friction brakes (handling the highest braking effort, particularly from higher speed).


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

brian_ said:


> You could trigger regen from the rear brake, presumably using a spring and a position sensor on the mechanical linkage, and keep the more effective hydraulic front brake. I understand that this would require reworking the front brake system, but it would make much more sense to me: rear wheels electrically driven and braked (handling low-speed braking), front hydraulic friction brakes (handling the highest braking effort, particularly from higher speed).


If this was a road going or higher speed bike, that would be a good suggestion as it isn't ideal to lose the good brakes. But in this build I am less concerned about the controller over heating and shutting down as it will never be going at a speed where it would really matter.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

It's done! Well it's been done for a month or so now. 

As a farm run around I would say it is perfectly capable. It has good power for the muddy bits and a great battery life. It can tow but the motor doesn't have any fins or other form of cooling so it doesn't like going above 4kw for very long, the phase wires are also pretty thin.
I have towed this trailer attached with 100kg of weight in it, with one completely flat trailer tire up a reasonably steep hill. It didn't complain but the motor was very hot. I am considering adding a water jacket to the motor and changing the phase wires for something thicker in order to cope with some higher power outputs for longer.

I actually still need to do the chain guard, which I think I will combine with fairing sides that completely enclose the engine bay. I also ordered the 4kw QS mid mount motor today. So that might end up in this bike with a bigger reduction for more torque and a useful top speed.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Well it's getting an upgrade. Going to put in the 72v 4kw QS motor.
I will remake the battery pack and configure it in a 20s1p setup. I'll lose 6 cells but the pack will still have a total capacity of around 3.5kWh. Dropping those 6 cells will make the pack a good bit narrower so it should fit inside the frame neater. I am also planning to put the BMS inside the pack this time rather than running the cables out to a separate compartment.
I'll use the 6 spare cells as a 12v solar storage battery for the workshop.

With the current ratio the QS motor has two less teeth on the motor sprocket, so it will give a max speed of 60mph. Which is way too high. So I will probably change the current ratio again to give a top speed of around 30-40mph and even more torque. However the sprocket on the drive train is already very large and starting to stick out of the side of the frame. So this is something I will have to think about. Maybe two chains? Or cogs? Or some sort of worm gear possibly?

I am also possibly thinking about replacing all the electrics with an Arduino controller. This way I can automate pre-charge, it will also be a helpful learning exercise. Or I might just use a smaller micro controller to automate pre-charge and leave the electrics as they are.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Hi Ben
QS upgrade sounds great! Any progress. How about a vid of the old girl throwing some mud off those ag tyres 

Cheers
Tyler


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

I have the motor, shouldn't be too hard to get it to fit as it is smaller than the old one.

I discovered a cell had died and leaked everywhere when I took the battery apart. That would explain why it wasn't charging properly! Luckily I am using 6 less cells for the 72v setup so that's not an issue. Just making up the new cell holders now and I will probably make the battery box out of balsa wood then fibre glass it. I am making up an MPCNC router now so that would make a good first project for it. I wasn't really a fan of the acrylic box so I thought I wold try an alternative, also something I can make myself for a fraction of the price.

Currently waiting on a new Daly BMS and 72v charger to be delivered. Once they arrive I will have all the hardware needed. Going to keep the ratio as before to same time and also probably keep the electrics simple as well for now. Main aim is to get it going ASAP again as chances are it will be needed in the winter on the farm.

Here is a small video of when it was still running with the old motor. Should be more fun in the winter, hoping for snow!


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Rebuilt the battery this week and fibre glassed it. There is a photo of the old battery cage for comparison. This new battery will be much thinner and won't look quite a cumbersome as the old one did. The reduction in size is due to three things, losing 6 cells from the pack, having all the cells in one box and not two, and last time one of the boxes was about 4cm too wide due to a miscalculation of how many cells I needed to put in it.

Some slight changes in design of the box, now all the outputs are coming out of the side of the box so not to get caught on the frame of the bike. The busbars are also coming out of the box and fixed.

Recalculated top speed will also be 44MPH, so not as silly as I first thought.

Next I need to remake the battery cage, get that in the bike along with the motor. Then I'll be able to see what space I have for the BMS. This time it will be closer to the battery, I expect it will be in an enclosure also on the battery cage.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Still progressing on the upgrade slowly. The BMS is larger now so can't fit in the airbox anymore. So the BMS is now mounted in it's own enclosure on top the motor. Que lots of 3d printed mounts. I have put a seperate switch for the charger in on top of the BMS with a precharge resistor, figured it would be wise with the increase in battery voltage.

The motor controller is also much bigger this time around, so I am having to get rid of the fuel tank and mount it directly to the frame. Still enough room for the fairing on top of it, so it should look the same.

Currently on general wiring now, the new DC-DC will fit in the airbox where the BMS used to sit. The contactor will sit in the space under the motor controller between the BMS and battery.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Hi Ben
That is looking really good. Looking forward to the test ride 

Cheers
Tyler


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Finished most of the important wiring and botched up some make shift motor mounts to get it almost in line with the transfer gear. Put on a chain and took it out for a spin. I find that any sort of movement is a good motivator to keep going.

Ran it for about 30 seconds before the motor mounts twisted and it threw off the chain. The torque is something else now. I was spinning all four wheels on concrete. So time to make up some proper mounts now I know that it works. It's looking like it will be allot more impressive this time.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Still making slow progress on this as I am concentrating on my MG build at the moment.
However in the last few months I have rebuilt the motor mounts. This time they can handle the torque much better. Still need to work on the tensioning system. I think it could do with some improvements.
It has been out on a couple test runs, it is scary now! Seems far more efficient than the last motor as well. Doesn't seem to pull that much power for the amount of torque it generates.

In the last few days I have been sorting out the wiring to a reasonable state. I redesigned the dash to be a bit more simple. Just has an LED that will light when the controller is powered on, a reverse button, parking button and a switch for the three selectable speeds.
The motor controller has three selectable speeds which can be programmed. So I will have a crawler setting, a normal farmyard setting and a road/quick death setting.
Once the dash is wired in I'll then put all the body work back on it and probably look at making up some fairings to cover the sides of the quad.

It was pushed into service today to move some things around the farm. Performed very well, it's very controllable at low speeds and the power is very useful. The limiting factor is grip, you will lose that way before the motor stalls.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Finally got a little bit of footage with the new motor. More to come in a few days.


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## LrBen (Dec 30, 2017)

Been using this for a few months now on and off as needed on the farm. The battery is more than sufficient for a days work. Could probably do two or three days on a charge. 
Now winter is setting in I'm getting some experience in muddier conditions. On wet fields it's actually pretty good. It feels a lot lighter without the ICE and doesn't tear up the fields that much.
This photo was taken last night after we had to go out and fix up some fencing. Went through a pretty deep patch of mud and very nearly got stuck! After some rocking side the side it managed to find traction and kept going. I found that as long as I kept the speed up I could almost float over the mud on the way back.

It is also road registered now with an age related number plate.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

This has turned into an awesome and practical build all in one, great work Lrben! And brilliant reuse of an aged and ailing fossil fuels machine 

cheers
Tyler


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