# I got my forklift motor! Holding thumbs! Is it any good? *Pictures*



## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

What a day....

So after calling every forklift place I could,I managed to find a motor in my price bracket.I don't know if its the right one or good for a EV but its from a Hyster forklift.

It was interesting watching a forklift pick and load a 11 inch diameter forklift motor into the back of my SUV!!! 

So after a lot of sweating (partly frommyown stupidity of attempting to pick the thing up lol) I was set and off on my way home with it.A really dark feeling kept on entering my mind...How am I going to unload this thing! I don't know how much this thing ways but 3 grown men could not lift it out of my car.We eventually had to find something level to the car and strong enough to support the motors weight and ROLL the damn thing on it.A metal table worked pretty well.I will be sure to buy a hoist soon. 


So anyways...I have attached pics,took them at night but tried to get as clear pictures as possible in hopes one of you have seen this motor from another project or experience and can tell me....Is it ok for a EV? Its 72 Volts but does anyone know any other stats on the motor?

Tips,suggestions are always welcome...Negative and positive.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Nice looking motor.

My 11" weighs in at about 110kg. My 12" weighs 114kg. I can just about lift the 11" but the 12" is a bit beyond me.

It was easier to move it about in bits especially given my workshop is in a basement. I must install a hatch and lift.

Top tip: Take lots of photos as you take it apart. It helps record what you are doing, where things came from and gives us something to comment on.

Try not to hit or lever anything that seems stuck without checking (here maybe) that there isn't another way.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Woodsmith said:


> It was easier to move it about in bits especially given my workshop is in a basement. I must install a hatch and lift.
> 
> Top tip: Take lots of photos as you take it apart. It helps record what you are doing, where things came from and gives us something to comment on.
> 
> Try not to hit or lever anything that seems stuck without checking (here maybe) that there isn't another way.


Moving it around in bits....BRILLIANT!!! thank you,I think thats going to help a lot!!!

I will keep taking photos as I don't know much about these forklift motors!

Funny enough you mention not forcing anything thats stuck.......Tonight I tried to turn the motor shaft by hand and it was stuck but having read other posts I turned off the back brake,this allowed me,with a bit of effort, to turn it BUT i could turn it a couple of revolutions either left or right before coming to a immediete stop,kind of like the brake was stopping it after a few revolutions. Have you seen something like that? Maybe faulty brake?


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Yeah, I stripped my motors on the hall floor just inside the front door and then took the bits into the workshop, a lot easier to do given it has to come apart any way if you are going to clean and service it.

The motor not turning is likely to be either the brake or the bearings or both. If you remove the brake then you can tell what the bearings feel like. Don't worry too much about it though as you will discard the brake and replace the bearings.

What you can do though is to put a 12v battery to it once the brake is off. It should spin round at about 1000 rpm or there abouts. But if you are not sure about the connections then check to see if they are marked and come back to us.

One thing though. Don't throw anything out. Find a box, or better, lots of little boxes and and store all the bits. Even stuff you think you won't need might come in useful and worn out parts will have part numbers or dimensions that you can relate to for the replacements.

You may/will need a seriously heavy duty bearing/pulley puller to remove the gear and the bearings if they are anything like the ones I have come across.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Woodsmith said:


> Yeah, I stripped my motors on the hall floor just inside the front door and then took the bits into the workshop, a lot easier to do given it has to come apart any way if you are going to clean and service it.



Is servicing something DIY? Id hate to send it in if I don't have to,really is a mission moving it.Rather teach myself how to do it.





> What you can do though is to put a 12v battery to it once the brake is off. It should spin round at about 1000 rpm or there abouts. But if you are not sure about the connections then check to see if they are marked and come back to us.


Theres 4 connections.. 2 in the front and 2 at the back.Seems they are paired as they are right next to each other,not sure if that helps.
In regards to connecting it to a 12V battery.Im a little worried doing this yet for fear of something breaking.Isnt there things I need to check 1st before doing this?



> One thing though. Don't throw anything out. Find a box, or better, lots of little boxes and and store all the bits. Even stuff you think you won't need might come in useful and worn out parts will have part numbers or dimensions that you can relate to for the replacements.


Awesome advice! I will get a plastic bin/container and devote it to my motor parts and cleaning materials.For the next month this motor is just going to be cleaned and repaired if need be until I make my next move and finding a controller



> You may/will need a seriously heavy duty bearing/pulley puller to remove the gear and the bearings if they are anything like the ones I have come across.


Umm whats a bearing/pulley puller? lol Sorry for my ignorance.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

A bearing puller is a device that pulls bearings and pulleys from a shaft as they are usually a very tight fit.

I have a very old one like this:








It can reach 10" and has a spread of 8".

Some cheap ones that look like this will move a slightly sticky fit bearing but not one that is properly tight.









I made one like this for a friend who had a really stubbon bearing on a halfshaft. It had 2' long legs on it.









All being well you should be able to dismantle the motor and clean it without doing any damage but you should search the forum for threads relating to motor cleaning, brushes, comm overhaul, etc. so you know what you are dealing with.

First off you will want to pull the brake and the gear off the shafts and then see if the motor spins freely by hand. 





Then, using a multimeter,









check the terminals to see if they are isolated from the frame of the motor, they should be.
Two terminals will be the field windings, the other two will be the armature. To test the motor you will need to connect one terminal of the battery to one of the field terminals, the other field terminal will go to one of the armature terminals and then the final armature terminal will go to the battery. The motor will spin on this connection being made.
Never test with anymore then 12v as the motor can over speed and destroy itself, possibly balistically.

If you are not sure of anythign then take photos or even video and show us. There are plenty of people here who know a lot about motors (not me) who can help.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Thanks so much for the heads up,would be lost without that starting advice! Going to do that tommorrow.Also those pics are great.Going to help a lot when I need to explain to a store what it looks like lol. 

Got some questions though.

I am worried that by getting a big 11 inch motor that Ive basically skrewed myself over.Wouldnt I need more batteries now to run it.What advantage/disadvantage would say this motor have over a 9.1 inch motor?

Does testing on 12v spin at a safe RPM because as you can see the motor is on a metal bench and I'd hate for it to fall off or on my foot.Currently I can't put it on the floor unless I induce some sort of steroid frenzy!


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Compared to a 9" the 11" will:
weigh more
run at a slower maximum speed
produce more torque
possibly not get as hot as easily due to greater thermal mass
look the business in a big vehicle

The main downside is the weight but the torque, being greater then a 9" will mean that it may be able to pull higher gearing. It will need to as it won't have the high top speed that the 9" will have.

Very loosely you could say it is like comparing a diesel to a petrol/gasoline engine.

For more on 11" motors have a search for 11" motors and see how others have used them.
They are usually in race/drag cars and SUVs though I am putting mine into a 1000lb trike!

The 12v test will be fine on the bench. Just cramp a bit of 4x2 on each side of it so that it dosen't roll off and maybe a ratchet strap wrapped over it to hold it down to the bench. That is a little over kill but better then it moving and you not being able to catch it.
I test mine on the floor.
Here are some of my test videos.

9" motor


11" motor - first test with MDF DE cap and no bearing


11" motor - second test with aluminium DE cap, bearing and drive sleeve.


12" motor



One way I have found to reduce the 'kick' on start up is to make the connection to the battery with very brief touches, touch and release, so the motor only gets a tiny pulse to start it spinning. Then pulse it again while spinning to speed it up and then then make the connection and hold it on.
It sort of makes it a 'soft start' and the motor doesn't kick as much.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Brilliant! Thanks I'll have a look at the videos.Thanks for the advice on the soft start!

I saw your trike,thats really awesome,looks like it could replace the rover that went to the moon lol.Really cool!

Bit worried about the top speed that you mentioned here though.Really don't want to be dog slow.Was hoping to get about 60mph from it.Dont know if thats feasible with a motor this size and weight.I guess all I can do is what you said....Have a look at what others have done.

Thanks for your assistance.I'll keep this thread up to date as to my findings.All advice is really helpful!


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

You're welcome. 

Slow isn't really an issue as it depends on your vehicle and the gearing.
My trike is geared for about 86mph at 3000rpm. There should be more then enough torque to achieve that.

The bigger problem is weight, you would think twice before hanging an 11" off the back of a VW Beetle transmission.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

LOL, yeah I figured my original idea of a classic mini austin just isn't going to work anymore  

So should I be looking for a bigger car because I always thought you needed to keep the weight light as possible? Perhaps I should still look for the lightest car available.....that will fit this motor. 

Wont hold you to this but.....do you feel 60mph is doable with this motor and SLA's?


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

offgrid said:


> LOL, yeah I figured my original idea of a classic mini austin just isn't going to work anymore
> 
> So should I be looking for a bigger car because I always thought you needed to keep the weight light as possible? Perhaps I should still look for the lightest car available.....that will fit this motor.
> 
> Wont hold you to this but.....do you feel 60mph is doable with this motor and SLA's?


60mph is possible with lead but not for very long or for very far.

Don't rule out the Mini just yet, just rethink how you will do it.
Have a look at Yabert's Smart car project with an 11" motor.

Also have a look at Todd's model T and jackbauer's BMW.

There is also Crodriver's BMW.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Thanks man,busy looking at them now,really enjoying the one about 11" motors for smaller cars.

I want to start cleaning this motor....atleast the external casing for now.What did everyone use to do this? Degreaser,Sand paper,Wire brush???

In terms of cleaning the commutator,do you think a LITTLE bit of Brasso will work or is that risky?

*Brasso - a creamy liquid metal polisher used to buff metals to a shine.Put a bit on a cloth and buff.When dry becomes a fine powder.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

I cleaned mine dry, on the outside, scraping off muck with a broken hacksaw blade gound to a useful shape and then wire brushing. Each part was wire brushed as it came off. It is is already wet with oil or grease then a little degreaser was used, any would do I think. I also used WD40 as it degreases quite well.


The comm can be cleaned with an old tooth brush and tooth paste. Gentle scrubbing brings it up well without damage. Not sure about Brasso, not tried it.

As you clean the outside you can check the shafts for circlips that will need removing before the end caps and bearings can be removed.


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## albano (Jan 12, 2009)

Hi offgrid, 

Congratulation on your new motor, you can also clean your field coil and armature with electrical cleaner, you can get them at any electrical wholesaler.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Thanks to the both of you! I feel like I'm in good hands lol

So I'm standing infront of the motor and I want to remove the brake and put it in my box.If you look at my pics,there's 4 bolts and a Big nut,do I remove the big nut and the brake slides off or remove the 4 smaller bolts?


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

On the plus side the motor turns a bit when I put a small 12v battery on only shit is the damn motor brake is so old it stops it spinning after a revolution and I can't work out how to take the damn thing off,removed the 4 small bolts positioned on the brake but not the big centre bolt/nut.Not sure if I should.  lol itching to get this bad boy spinning!!!


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

The four small bolts look like they secure the brake drum to a flange on the tail shaft. If you remove those the drum should come off. Hit it with a hammer to loosen the rust and the joint and it should become loose. It should be the same as taking a drum brake off a car axle.

The big nut in the middle will probably be really tight so you need to put two of the smaller bolts back on to hold a steel bar to stop the flange rotating when you pull on the wrench to undo the big nut.

While you have the bar bolted to the flange it would be a good time to loosen off the big nut on the drive end while you can. That will save a lot of cussing later.

The flange on the shaft will be tight so you will need to use a puller to remove it.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Just a update:

Woodsmith,your directions we SPOT ON! thanks man.I managed to remove the motor break without to much of a hitch.Luckily flange just slid out with no problems.Loosening the main shaft big nut was a bit of a mission but nothing a hammer and wrench couldn't solve. 

So now I have the drum brake off with only tail shaft sticking out...Motor now spins freely with 12V battery...Whats the next step? taking the rear armature/shell off and expose the commutator?

I have taken some videos and pictures to show you how I removed the drum brake tonight.Please comment if you see anything interesting or problematic.is the tail and front shaft correct for a EV?


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Offgrid
Keep that flange! (brake)
I am using direct drive with an 11 inch forklift motor and I just made up a simple threaded disk to go from the brake flange to my propshaft

disc with eight holes - stepped on each side to match the register on the flange and the prop

an 11 inch is good for a light car - you don't need the torque multiplication of the gearbox - so you can put the motor where the gearbox would have gone and use the motor space for batteries


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Maybe even keep the brake.
It would make a good transmission brake for a light vehicle.

Before you remove the comm end you will need to retract the brushes. Lift the springs, there may be a hook that will hold them open, and carefully lift out each brush. That will save them from damage.
Actually, looking back at the photos, it may be as easy to unbolt them complete with the brush box, the thing that holds the brushes, as the springs look different to ones I've done.


I will hand you over to the rest of the forum now.
I'm away for the weekend with my honey, my 45th birthday today. There are other things to do that don't involve being on line!


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Duncan said:


> Hi Offgrid
> Keep that flange! (brake)
> I am using direct drive with an 11 inch forklift motor and I just made up a simple threaded disk to go from the brake flange to my propshaft
> 
> ...


Hi Duncan...Thank you for your comments.I just have some questions though...

Firstly do you have a pic of your disk brake? Would be interesting!

I thought the gear box was needed for speed not torque? Or is speed always directly related to voltage?If I understand you correctly,the only reason people use the gearbox on a EV conversion is to get more torque out of the motor and the 11 inch has so much of that already,its doesn't need the gearbox to assist with it and I just now need to add batteries in series to get my voltage/speed?
I would love to see your build if you on EValbum!

I like the idea of loosing a gearbox and gaining space.I want to convert a classic mini austin so a direct drive will suit me fine with the space saving!

Thanks again!



Woodsmith said:


> Maybe even keep the brake.
> It would make a good transmission brake for a light vehicle.
> 
> Before you remove the comm end you will need to retract the brushes. Lift the springs, there may be a hook that will hold them open, and carefully lift out each brush. That will save them from damage.
> ...


Happy Birthday bud!!!!!! God Bless! not everyday you turn 21 again  Hope you enjoying it and I totally get what you saying about better things to do than being online! LOL  

Thanks for the tip on the brushes,I'll be honest...retracting them didn't even cross my mind 
Yeah there are coil springs and bolts that hold the brush/brush box.Might be safer to remove the brush box first and then tinker with how the brush is removed. 

I started my motor with a small 12V tonight.Spins like a CHARM! 

Pretty quiet for a 11/12"! Video below.


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## PZigouras (Jun 5, 2010)

Are you still planning to run it at 72 volts? Is it rated for 36 or 48?

I just tried a 36V forklift motor at 144 volts (just for a good laugh) and strangely enough, it looks like it's running just fine. I didn't test it under a load (that's tomorrow's test) but it seemed to spin nicely in the car.

There's a little bit of sparking, but I haven't touched the timing yet...


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Its rated at 72volts but Im planning to run it at 144volts.Im at the stage where I am trying to open it up to check its health but the casing is tricky and has things attached internaly that don't allow the 2 halves to be removed from each other.Working out the correct steps to remove bolts etc....Think i need to start with the A1 terminal and work from there....who knows.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

It looks like on the CE (comm end) the terminals for the brushes are on the casting and not the barrel of the motor. This means it should come away clean with no connections to undo.
Looking back at your videos, the four small nuts that were behind the drum brake may hold the brush ring in place. That is the ring that holds the four brush boxes in position around the comm. Leave those tight until later on. The bolts you need to undo are the big ones around the barrel where the two terminal bolts stick out.

Before removing the CE cap or the DE (drive end) cap make some marks with a scriber or a centre punch to identify the location and orientation of the parts. It may matter which way they go back on later.

Once you have undone the bolts securing the comm end cap to the barrel of the motor it should come away but it may be difficult to pull away if the bearings are a tight fit.
The fit of everything here should be quite snug anyway and gentle tapping with a soft faced hammer may encourage movement.

Here, again, a puller might be needed to pull the CE cap off the armature shaft once it is loose from the barrel.

Have you removed the drive gear and tried removing the drive end cap?


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Woodsmith said:


> It looks like on the CE (comm end) the terminals for the brushes are on the casting and not the barrel of the motor. This means it should come away clean with no connections to undo.
> Looking back at your videos, the four small nuts that were behind the drum brake may hold the brush ring in place. That is the ring that holds the four brush boxes in position around the comm. Leave those tight until later on. The bolts you need to undo are the big ones around the barrel where the two terminal bolts stick out.
> 
> Before removing the CE cap or the DE (drive end) cap make some marks with a scriber or a centre punch to identify the location and orientation of the parts. It may matter which way they go back on later.
> ...


*I think I may have cocked this up royally!* Don't think I understood exactly what you meant and hope I havnt damaged anything *Swear words!* but my own fault in the end.

When you say "terminals" there are 2 sets of terminals (A1 and A2 at the back shaft and S1 and S2 at the front shaft) and think Ive been looking at the wrong ones! Im scared now to tighten again the 4 bolts at the back of the motor that hold the brush boxes and brush ring in place because Ive gently nudged (with a hammer) the back cap from the centre barrel,the 2 have separated a bit as you will see briefly in the video but the 2 won't seperate anymore because of the A1 terminal flat cable thats on the end cap at the back of the motor (A1 - that goes to field coils in centre barrel) that I mention in the video and so I just stopped all work until I have spoken to you guys as you advised in your 1st post! I attached a youtube video with what I mean!    Feel like Im defusing a bomb  Hope this makes sense!

*Right click Video and Click on the option to watch on youtube.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Woodsmith said:


> It looks like on the CE (comm end) the terminals for the brushes are on the casting and not the barrel of the motor. This means it should come away clean with no connections to undo.


Hi Wood,

Been watching from afar. But thought I would chime in. From offgrid's video, it appears this may be an interpole machine. In which case, the "A" terminal and brush cross connector need be connected to the comm coils in the frame. Hence the difficulty removing the CEH. Try pulling the armature and DEH out from the other direction. Once it is out, you can reach down to the CEH and push the A terminal bolt thru and then remove the CEH. 

Fun times  Cheers,

major


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

major said:


> Hi Wood,
> 
> Been watching from afar. But thought I would chime in. From offgrid's video, it appears this may be an interpole machine. In which case, the "A" terminal and brush cross connector need be connected to the comm coils in the frame. Hence the difficulty removing the CEH. Try pulling the armature and DEH out from the other direction. Once it is out, you can reach down to the CEH and push the A terminal bolt thru and then remove the CEH.
> 
> ...


Thanks Major...

Think you are right... Firstly I need to get my technical Jargon correct...What does CEH and DEH stand for?

The A1 terminal that I point to in my video has a flat insulated bar that runs from the terminal to somewhere within the field coils.The flat insulated bar is pretty rigid and only allows enough play to push it though the armature.Problem is it can't go all the way through as there is not enough space for it to go throughout with the rotor still in and under the terminal

Secondly as you said (hopeI understood correctly. On 2 of the 4 brush boxes there is a similar flat insulated copper bar that runs to the field coils which pretty much allow no play or movement on the brush box while the rotor and more importantly,commutator is below it.Hope this makes sense?

PS have no idea what a "inter pole" machine is but do you think this motor is still good for EV now that we know that?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> Firstly I need to get my technical Jargon correct...What does CEH and DEH stand for?


Comm End Head & Drive End Head.



> have no idea what a "inter pole" machine is but do you think this motor is still good for EV now that we know that?


Yep, maybe better


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Cheers major, I figured my limited knowledge and experience would run out somewhere.

Offgrid, did you loosen the nut on the drive end while the brake hub was still fitted?
It is time to remove the gear on the drive end and pull things out from the front.

I must admit that I tend to stand my motors vertical on the comm end (on blocks of wood) and strip from the drive end downwards but were it not for the interpoles yours looks like it would have come apart from either end.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Offgrid,

What is inside that gear on the drive end?

My motor had splines each end - the drive end had a gear on it, the comm end had the brake on it

here are some pictures,
The prop is a Subaru - shortened a lot! 

The silver disk is my adapter - it has 8 off M8 threaded holes in it and a shoulder on each side to line up with the shoulder on the prop and on the flange,

If the drive end had not had the same splines I would have turned the motor to face the other way and driven off the comm end

NOTE
A propshaft needs some end float - my splined flange is loose on the shaft, (able to move axially) that gives the required ~6mm of travel - I will add a rubber sock and some grease before it hits the road


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Woodsmith said:


> Cheers major, I figured my limited knowledge and experience would run out somewhere.
> 
> Offgrid, did you loosen the nut on the drive end while the brake hub was still fitted?
> It is time to remove the gear on the drive end and pull things out from the front.
> ...


Ermm.I obviously misunderstood.I removed the com end nut on the tail shaft while the brake was still attached. (Remember you saying I was going to cuss if I didn't) Is this the part where I assemble part of the drum brake again so I can remove the drive end nut and start cussing? lololol

I take it that before I move everything from the front I should remove those brushes? Is there anything to watch out for like damaging field coils or bearings while taking it out?

Thanks I couldn't have got this far without you and the others.



Duncan said:


> Hi Offgrid,
> 
> What is inside that gear on the drive end?
> 
> ...



Not sure what shape the drive shaft is,I do know it must be partly threaded for the nut but still need to take that off tonight as you can see above.Behind that nut is a big bearing.not sure why its there as I don't see it on the other motors in the forum.Did you make the silver disk yourself? Why does a props haft need some end float?


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

THAT DRIVE NUT IS THE DEVIL!!!  I think I'm going to need a bigger shifting spanner.You would swear Conan tightened it himself to trap evil spirits so no man may untighten it and let them free!


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Offgrid

Have you got an air compressor? - buy yourself an impact wrench (I got one for about $25) - you will kick yourself for all of the years you went without

If not can you take your motor down to your friendly garage or tire place and get them to use the "rattler" on your drive nut

You will be amazed at the way it slackens that nut

Propshaft end float
as the prop articulates its length changes, all of the cars that I have seen have a spline drive at the gearbox end, the only exceptions are CV type props where one of the CV's is a "plunging" type


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

offgrid said:


> THAT DRIVE NUT IS THE DEVIL!!!  I think I'm going to need a bigger shifting spanner.You would swear Conan tightened it himself to trap evil spirits so no man may untighten it and let them free!


Put the brake flange back on and the bolts back into it without the drum or shoes.
Using a crow bar, wrecking bar or similar put it across the bolts and get a friend to hold it down.
Better still, use a piece of stout steel with two holes drilled into it to match the PCD of the brake flange and then bolt it tightly across the flange. Make sure it is about 2-3 feet long.

At the drive end, remove the split pin and use a socket and bar, or a big old spanner that fits snugly.
Place the bar or spanner so that it is at the 9o'clock position and put your weight onto it.
Using a lump hammer strike the end of the spanner or bar in the 'undo' direction. 
You don't need to hit it hard but with the pressure on short sharp smacks with shock the nut around.

The 'undo' force at the drive end should be forcing the bar at the brake flange downwards into the bench and your friend should be holding it all still so there is no bounce.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Thanks for the tips guys.Worked flawlessly as usual.

Thanks for the props haft explanation Duncan.The tapping method with a hammer worked like a charm Woodsmith. 

Im at a point now where I need to remove the drive shaft bearing and think I need the bearing puller.

Ive attached 2 youtube videos.Please excuse the the cheesyness in the first one.I was flippen happy with getting the drive shaft nut off and also finding a splined drive shaft.(This is good right? lol)


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> Im at a point now where I need to remove the drive shaft bearing and think I need the bearing puller.


Just leave the DE bearing in the DEH and on the shaft. Pull out the armature and DEH assembly intact. Bearing at the CE should be a slip fit and come out on the shaft as well. If you really need to remove and replace the DE bearing, do it once you have the armature out. Then you can use a press.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Ok I've got the drive bearing off by smacking the plate behind it and it eventually slipped off (Cant remove armature until this was done as the drive end plate is stuck behind it).I now have the armature exposed but I can't pull it out because of CEH bearing.I've tried tapping the CEH shaft to loosen it but it's not budging.What to do now? Let me know if you need a pic?


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Heres a pic of the bearing on the com end that wont come out.One is from the inside,the other is from a outside and then another pic of the armature exposed.I did notice theres a little hole in the centre of the comm and drive shaft.Let me know your suggestions?  

Thanks


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> Heres a pic of the bearing on the com end that wont come out.One is from the inside,the other is from a outside and then another pic of the armature exposed.I did notice theres a little hole in the centre of the comm and drive shaft.Let me know your suggestions?


The outer race of the CE bearing should be a mean loose fit into the CEH housing bore. It should slide out. If it doesn't, you'll have to force it out. You'll have to replace it if you force it. I'd use a press. Heating the CEH casting should help. Stay under 200C. And remove the brushes first. Run the nut on the shaft threads as not to bugger them up when pressing.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

major said:


> The outer race of the CE bearing should be a mean loose fit into the CEH housing bore. It should slide out. If it doesn't, you'll have to force it out. You'll have to replace it if you force it. I'd use a press. Heating the CEH casting should help. Stay under 200C. And remove the brushes first. Run the nut on the shaft threads as not to bugger them up when pressing.


Well Ive tried the forcing out method with a hammer and slightly buggered the CEH shaft thread already (stupid move I know) so ill have to sit there with a precision file and fix my bugger up.I tried using the nut on the shaft and that started to flatten from the hammering so that didn't work.

The middle section of the motor is currently unbolted and is causing some pressure on the armature as its dipping a little at the comm end,should I bolt this back on before continuing?

When you say try heating it a bit? with a blow torch? Don't have one of those but thought a little gas camping cooker may work if I focus it on the CEH shaft hole? The camping gas cooker has a mini gas canister on the bottom that attaches to a cooking head.

This press that you are talking about,what does it look like? is it a tool I can get at a hardware store or do I have to take it in? One idea I had was to get a bearing puller and attach the arms to the holes on the com end casting with the centre pin in the centre hole of the com end shaft and try force it out like I would a bearing?

Thank you for taking time to assist me.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> Well Ive tried the forcing out method with a hammer and slightly buggered the CEH shaft thread already (stupid move I know) so ill have to sit there with a precision file and fix my bugger up.I tried using the nut on the shaft and that started to flatten from the hammering so that didn't work.
> 
> The middle section of the motor is currently unbolted and is causing some pressure on the armature as its dipping a little at the comm end,should I bolt this back on before continuing?
> 
> ...


I'd bolt the CEH back to the frame to avoid stressing the internal connectors. Heat the housing, not the shaft. Press is a hydraulic ram. Bearing puller might work.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

The CE bearing on my 11" motor was tight and wouldn't let go.
I had to pull it off the tailshaft with my bearing puller.










I think you will need to beg, borrow or buy one that is big enough to fit around the CE cap.

You could make something using whatever is to hand that will do the same job if you can.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Ok cool,major,organized a small gas flame blower for tomorrow,CEH is now connected again.I organized someone who might help with a press.Wood smith I found a place who sells a bearing pulley buy can't confirm the bloody size yet.So my bases are covered tomorrow but my arse is itching tonight because I've been enjoying this process so much,I was thinking what about a set punch? I could use it in the hollow on the CEH shaft centre or is this a waste of time and I should rather wait until tomorrow? So close guys, this is the last problem until it's apart *excitement*


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Don't know if this means anything or part of the answer but it looks like around the bearing on the CEH shaft is a round plastic thing that fits around the bearing?


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Ummm, not sure about the plastic thing, could be the rubber seal on the bearing itself.

Just make sure there is no circlip or anything like that on the shaft stopping it going through the bearing.

What you are looking for, in my experience, is the shaft to come out of the centre of the bearing leaving the bearing in the CE.

Major, I think, is expecting the bearing to come out of the CE with the shaft. It could be either but without seeing the motor myself it is hard to tell which will happen. Major has probably forgotten more about motors then I will ever know though.

Forget about the punch, that will just ruin the end of the shaft for no benefit.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Woodsmith said:


> Ummm, not sure about the plastic thing, could be the rubber seal on the bearing itself.
> 
> Just make sure there is no circlip or anything like that on the shaft stopping it going through the bearing.
> 
> ...


If there is a circlip,i can't see it.The bearing is recessed inside the CE casting and from the inside,looking into the CE casting ,you can barely see the bearing so hopefully no circlip there hehe.

Just as a side note...Ive been leaving the motor on its side while trying to tap it out.Do you think the weight of the armature could stopping it from budging.I must admit,initially I was hitting the shaft pretty hard when the CE shaft nut was on but stopped doing that out of fear.While doing that,I focussed 3 candles under the CE cast to heat it up but no luck with that.I can take more pics but since the bearing is recessed into the CE casting,all you see is a front of a bearing. 


Im banking on the bearing puller as my 1st step but like you said,not sure if I'll find one that size.
Remind me again why I need to open this motor if it already works and I can just replace brushes?Would save a lot of effort if I just cleaned commutator and replace the brushes.

Posted a video for fun and partly being bored.

Thanks


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

GOOD NEWS!!! I managed to get the CE shaft out of the CE shaft bearing!!! I lent a bearing puller and it came out so easily! I now have the motor stripped and ready for refurbing! Im really pleased as I put a lot of work into this.It would not be fair to not mention the major contributors to this thread.

Woodsmith-You took the initiative to help a newbie out and went full force in helping me to answer my questions and never once flamed me even though I know I asked some stupid things,lol.Your knowledge is awesome and you have a cool lunar buggy  Thank you!

major-Even though you are seen as somewhat of a legend with motors on this forum,the problems I was having were not seen as too minor for you to chip in and give advice.You give clear advice and its nice to know,like Woodsmith,your advice can be trusted!

Duncan-For providing additional advice and tips on things that you've done to strip your motors as well as the methods you've used and showing me pics of your build,your tip on the impact wrench is what helped me with the drive shaft demon bolt! 

Thanks to the 3 of you.I really appreciate your help and it takes big character on your part to come on a internet forum to just give away knowledge for free for things that you had to sweat by trial and error to find out for yourselves and give away to strangers.It just goes to show that diyelectriccar is your passionTHANK YOU!

Now that Im finished stripping the motor I need to start refurbing it,cleaning it and making it look like new/better.Whats the next step of the refurb? Bearing replacement? Cleaning the casting/barrel? Removing the field coils? Im all ears...all your advice has been spot on so far so I trust and will go with what you say.I have added some videos of this afternoon where I removed the last thing,the CE shaft from bearing.I also show the individual parts for you to comment on condition,replacement etc.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Hey, no worries mate, we were all there once.

I was the same when I joined the forum and there was a lot of help given to me and all I did was build a little tractor and weld a few bits on the beginings of a trike.
One day you will be doing likewise with someone who asks a question you can answer.

Keep up the good work and you'll be driving electric before I will be!


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Hehe thanks Woodsmith


No work done on my motor tonight as there's a power failure and I'm low on my solar side due to poor weather. 


I keep getting a real uncomfortable feeling about my motors dimensions though, kinda a eerie feeling.I measured it's dimensions tonight and I'm worried about it's dimensions/weight...it's about 12 inches in diameter and 15 inches in length.It feels like it weighs a lot! I want to use it in a really small car like a mini Austin or similiar but can't shrug the feeling that I may have the wrong motor for EV.I'm not a pro at this so I'd like to hear your thoughts about it.Everyone on here is talking about the famous 9.1 inch motors and like I said...I'm a little concerned. 

Much appreciated


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

no sweat the weight, my engine out was 250 lbs, the Kostov is 190, so no big deal there. put the pieces on a bathroom scale and find out.

I've NEVER heard a anyone say that they had TOO MUCH motor.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Do you have the vehicle yet? Can't remember if you have.

The big motor may weigh a lot but it will be less then the ICE from the car. Given a small car you may even be able to lose the transmission as well and direct drive the car from the motor.

If it has interpoles, as major suggested, then that will save you advancing the brushes and that will also allow you run a good motor rpm and still have electric reversing without the risk of brush arcing.

I would be thinking of a small rear wheel drive car with the motor sitting in the transmission tunnel where the gearbox was.

Given space you could even couple the motor direct to a rear diff with independent rear suspension. The motor could be ahead of the diff in the tunnel (mid engine) or it could be behind the diff like a VW beatle (rear engine).
Any Porsche 911s with dead engines there?


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Offgrid
_"I may have the wrong motor for EV"

_There may be motors that would be _better_ - but use the one you have for now it will be lighter than the iron lump in a mini and you should be able to eliminate the gearbox

Every now and then I keep thinking I should have found an old mini rather than building my car

-thoughts - 
mini with the motor in the back driving a diff (triumph, subaru, mazda) in between the front wheels - driveshaft goes along an enlarged exhaust tunnel


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## MalcolmB (Jun 10, 2008)

Like the other guys have said, it looks like you've got a good motor. Fitting it in a mini won't be straightforward, but then no mini conversion is. The simplest way I can see would be to fit a rear drive diff in the front (Ford Sierra or Freelander are popular choices in the kitcar world) and mount the motor directly above it, driving the diff input via a belt or chain. One thing to consider is that a big motor like this will have a lot of torque but a relatively low max rpm (3000???), so you need to gear it accordingly.

It does seem a bit of a shame to replace the heavy mini lump with a heavy motor, but that decision depends more than anything on your budget and performance requirements.


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## gor (Nov 25, 2009)

MalcolmB said:


> Like the other guys have said, it looks like you've got a good motor. Fitting it in a mini won't be straightforward, but then no mini conversion is. The simplest way I can see would be to fit a rear drive diff in the front (Ford Sierra or Freelander are popular choices in the kitcar world) and mount the motor directly above it, driving the diff input via a belt or chain. One thing to consider is that a big motor like this will have a lot of torque but a relatively low max rpm (3000???), so you need to gear it accordingly.
> 
> It does seem a bit of a shame to replace the heavy mini lump with a heavy motor, but that decision depends more than anything on your budget and performance requirements.


may be some good planetary gear? so motor could be inline - behind diff., in tranny tunnel?


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

How about late 70's audi FWD transaxle. Just like VW bug, but backwards, and has different CV joints to allow more swing. Motor goes into tunnel.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Hi everyone...Sorry for the late reply,been hectically busy with work.

Ive read all the comments and would like to comment but when it comes to gear boxes,diffs and engines,I'm in the dark which means I need to go do some homework and self study on the subject.Im sure all the suggestions will work perfectly with some careful planning but as I said Im going to need to do some reading on the topic.Anyone know where I can read up on diffs,gearboxes for complete novices? hehe Videos/Pics might be easier. 

Woodsmith,I havnt got my car yet...waiting to get the electronics first,get them working together and then take it from there.

Malcolm mentioned having the motor driving the diff via belt or chain.This should work but won't I have power/speed losses as compared to the motor shaft directly attached to the diff or gearbox?

Once again thank you to everyone of you who commented.Once I have some mechanical basics,I will understand what you mean hehe!

What Ive done so far on the motor is undo the field coil allan bolts as I want to start removing the field coils but have returned for advice on the proper procedure to do this as to not mess anything up.It seems in order to get the S1 and S2 bolts out of the centre barrel,I will need to remove the field coils in a certain way?

I have attached a video of where I am at and to show the field coils,maybe from this you can determine if this is a inter-pole motor for sure or any other useful info you might have!

Thanks again.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> It seems in order to get the S1 and S2 bolts out of the centre barrel,I will need to remove the field coils in a certain way?
> 
> I have attached a video of where I am at and to show the field coils,maybe from this you can determine if this is a inter-pole motor for sure or any other useful info you might have!


Hi off,

Those blocks are the pole pieces (sometimes called pole shoes) fitted inside the field coils. This is a 4 pole motor. Meaning 2 North poles and 2 South poles (of the magnetic type). These are called main poles, and are wrapped with the field coils creating electromagnets of sorts. The smaller steel gizmos attached to the inside of the yoke (frame) are the interpoles. They do not count as main poles. Their function is to force the armature magnetic distortion in such a way as to reduce arcing on the brushes and commutator. The copper windings around the interpoles are called comm coils (short for commutator). Quite different in function than the field coils. The field coils connect to terminals S1 and S2. This is the field circuit of the motor. The comm coils must be in the armature circuit therefore connect to the brushes and A terminals.

Once you remove the pole shoes and interpoles, the comm coils assembly should be able to be removed.* This leaves only the field coil assembly with the S1 and S2 terminals thru the yoke. You can then carefully collapse the 4 coil assembly pulling the terminal studs inward and then slide the assembly out of the yoke. Care should be taken as not to bend the copper ribbon excessively or frequently and avoid stressing joints and insulation. 

Likely the pole shoes are symmetrical and interchangeable, but it doesn't hurt to mark things and reassemble back the way they were. The complete coil assemblies should fit only one way. And you have a video record.

Good luck,

major

* You may be able to leave the interpoles in their respective comm coil and remove together.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Major, you are pure genius...like those movies where you see a person dissecting a bomb but over the phone! LOL! 

Everything you've said is spot on and as a result.I have the entire motor dissasembled and ready for cleaning! I owe you a couple of beers mate. 
I have attached some you tube clips of the process and findings.

So now the crap part...the cleaning! I have managed to use a sander on the barrel exterior...what Ive noticed is the exterior steel is pitted and grooved,its not precisely round either with slight variations/ridges to the surface.I was going to sand further but I think a clean exterior surface should be good enough? If I add paint perhaps this will fill in some of the grooves.The interior of the barrel is perfectly shaped with no grooves/ridges.I wonder why the exterior is this way? Came from manufacturing this way?

Anyway,a couple of things...The steel Com end cap that you can see in one video in the background is still filthy.I tried clean it with a drill with a steel brush attachment but its taking way too long.Is there something I can soak it in for a while that will remove all the grease,old paint and grime so that it will be close to shiny steel again? Ideas I've had are petrol,diesel,paraffin,thinners? I tired a water based detergent but that makes it worse as it causes rust marks pretty quickly.Once the motor is clean,I will spray it either red (Like warp series) or black.

Another thing I want to clean is the inter poles and fields.Once again,what liquid can be used? Im figuring this will need to be carefully cleaned with a tooth brush.Once cleaned,I will use a high heat paint and spray them the original red/wine colour.

Your suggestions?


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## MalcolmB (Jun 10, 2008)

offgrid said:


> Malcolm mentioned having the motor driving the diff via belt or chain.This should work but won't I have power/speed losses as compared to the motor shaft directly attached to the diff or gearbox?


Yes, you would lose a few percent of efficiency compared with connecting directly to the diff. I was just suggesting the simplest way I can see to fit your motor in a mini without making major modifications to the body. There are lots of other ways of doing it, as the others have suggested, but most of them involve a fair bit of cutting and welding.

As for cleaning your motor, how about electrolysis? http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm


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## Salty9 (Jul 13, 2009)

Good link Malcolm. http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html is similar except it uses a 12V battery.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> The interior of the barrel is perfectly shaped with no grooves/ridges.I wonder why the exterior is this way? Came from manufacturing this way?


The ID (Inner Diameter) of the yoke (frame or central housing, that big section of steel pipe) is the register for all the important toleranced attachments. It needs to be precisely machined round and smooth and square to locate the poles and end heads (and therefore bearings and brushes) properly. Keep the ID clean and smooth. Do not alter it dimensionally. And do not paint it.

The OD (Outer Diameter) is of little consequence. The yoke wall thickness just needs to be thick enough for the magnet flux path. The OD surface can be uneven and rough. Many times it is left that way to avoid machine time at the motor factory. You can do what you want to the OD to make it pretty, but don't reduce the wall thickness by more than a hair and don't poke a lot of holes thru it


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Hey Malcolm,get what you saying.Saw another thread where a guy was doing a mini Austin conversion with a 9inch motor and he battled a lot.I know everyone is saying it's possible with a 12 inch but it looks like a mission and a half and not something for a novice? Only way I can see without cutting is mounting motor with a chain link as you said.Can't help to think maybe a hatchback with a slightly bigger engine compartment so that I can go direct drive or gearbox connected...just throwing some ideas out there. 

Major you made almost wet myself with laughter tonight because just before I read what you said about the ID and OD,I was contemplating what colour I should spray the ID.Meanwhile firstly like you just said,you don't spray it and secondly if you could spray it,colour choice is immaterial since you can't see it anyway lol! I will leave as is and just clean it.

One thing I have started to do is clean the field coils with parafene/kerosene and a toothbrush.I hope this won't be a problem as I ventured a little on this.I was thinking about spray painting the field coils again as they were sprayed,is this ok? Major do you have a build on evalbum yet,would be awesome to see your work!


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Refurbed Field coils (Cleaned and painted) 
New bearings


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> Refurbed Field coils (Cleaned and painted)
> New bearings


I hope you used high temp paint. Coils are likely rated 180 degrees C. And bearings should have high temp seals and high temp grease. Those look like shields. When motor runs up to temp, grease will liquefy and run out.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

major said:


> I hope you used high temp paint. Coils are likely rated 180 degrees C. And bearings should have high temp seals and high temp grease. Those look like shields. When motor runs up to temp, grease will liquefy and run out.


As far as I cans see its High heat paint.

In terms of the bearings,I just gave them the serial numbers and they matched them,except for the drive shaft bearing which wasn't a sealed one but they recommended taking a sealed one,how do I check if they have high temp seals?

A lot of people are saying that even after massively over volting,there motors are only slightly warm?  Its a 80v 12" not sure if that makes any difference to heat?


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

That doom and gloom feeling has set in again...Been pondering the paint on the coils since you've mentioned it major.I honestly can't validate the maximum temp the paint can withstand.The problem is,in my newbie quest,I already sprayed them.I am now faced with 2 options...

1.Soak them in thinners and scrub all the paint off with a toothbrush. (Is this safe? i.e. coils in thinners?)

2.Leave them and risk the paint burning. 

The bearings...Need some advice here too due to the doom and gloom factor...

The old bearings were the non sealed (One side open) type BUT there was a rubber type seal on the drive end plate. (The part that would screw onto the adapter plate.) Is this the seal for the open bearing? So once again...2 options...

1.Take the new bearing back and swop it for the open type.

2.Take a chance with the sealed/shield bearing.

Im pretty much at crossroads here and don't want to make a costly mistake while I already have the motor open.I appreciate your comments,either way because motors are not my speciality and think going a bit on my own caused this.Please help me fix my mess up.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> That doom and gloom feeling has set in again...Been pondering the paint on the coils since you've mentioned it major.I honestly can't validate the maximum temp the paint can withstand.The problem is,in my newbie quest,I already sprayed them.I am now faced with 2 options...
> 
> 1.Soak them in thinners and scrub all the paint off with a toothbrush. (Is this safe? i.e. coils in thinners?)
> 
> ...


Just got a minute.....

Bake the coil set in an oven at 180 degrees C. Your paint will either cure or disappear.

Use double sealed (hi temp), not shielded bearings with hi temp grease.

major


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

major said:


> Just got a minute.....
> 
> Bake the coil set in an oven at 180 degrees C. Your paint will either cure or disappear.
> 
> ...


lol,Im wondering who is stupid enough to let me use their oven to do this...hmmm lol! Not questioning you in the least but is this the only viable way? Also,lets say the paint disappears.Can I just leave it unpainted or should I respray again? (This time with clearly marked high temperature engine enamel)

Bearings will go back for swopping tomorrow! Thank you!

Thanks for the comments,much appreciated.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

make a box out of foil lined building/insulation foam. add heat source and monitoring thermometer, perhaps an el-cheap o baking thermocouple one. turn on, wait to temp reaches 180 degrees, let cool down, open box, observe. rinse, repeat. may have to soak at 180 for a while or go to 200. the foam ought to take it. OSB mushboard definitely will.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> lol,Im wondering who is stupid enough to let me use their oven to do this...hmmm lol! Not questioning you in the least but is this the only viable way? Also,lets say the paint disappears.Can I just leave it unpainted or should I respray again? (This time with clearly marked high temperature engine enamel)
> 
> Bearings will go back for swopping tomorrow! Thank you!
> 
> Thanks for the comments,much appreciated.


I would not use any solvents. It could hurt the wire coating. Once you get it baked on (or off) clean with warm soap and water. Dry with heat in oven thoroughly. Then coat with proper motor insulating varnish. They even make it in spray can form. If not that, use a brush. Factories will dip, but I don't expect you to buy 20 gallons. Then bake again. I would not use just a high temp paint, like engine paint because it may not have the insulation quality. 

Bearings......you might get away with lesser quality or temp or open or shielded bearings, depending on how hard you run the motor and how much crap gets thrown at them. But do you want to tear this puppy down after 5 or 6000 miles to replace a bearing gone bad? And if you install those bearings yourself, find a primer on how to do it. You need to press them on the shaft with tool fitting the inner race otherwise you'll ruin in.

Cheers,

major


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Something like this?


Electrical Insulating Varnish

Excellent insulating medium for use in a variety of industrial applications.
[Hide details]

Spanjaard Electrical Insulating Varnish is a red coloured, moisture and oil resistant varnish. For use on all electrical windings, coils and motor frames. Protects against arcing from controller shafts, switch bases and other electrical equipment. Used as a sealant for pipes, gaskets etc. Available in aerosol only.


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

Ok Major...so I've tried to organize a oven but noone will let me use theirs,so I can't bake these coils like you've asked,trust me I have reasoned and pleaded but women are protective about their ovens hehe.I was left with only one option against our better judgement but only because I have no other way,please don't see it as me not taking advice,it really could not be helped and I value your input!

I had to take a toothbrush with a cup of thinners and gently scrub the paint off bit by bit.I couldn't get all of it off as it left a light red hue on the coils.I then wiped any residue away with a cloth.I then brought out my 3 bar gas heater and positioned the coils infront of it while all 3 bars were on,the coils were max about 10 centimeters from the heater.I had no way of telling exact temperature but I could not touch the coil side facing the heater by hand.All that happened was a VERY fine vapor came off the coils but seem to stop.Each coil got about 4-5 minutes facing the heater.The was no discolouration on the coils.


So now... Would you think the very minimal paint that is on there should be heat stable since it didn't burn?

Secondly... I noticed the coils are already wrapped in what looks like fiberglass bandage,does this mean I must still use the motor varnish or is this enough to protect the coils inside this bandage stuff.The bandage is sealed.

Below is the pictures of the coils after removing paint and baking infront of the heater.

Thanks for your time.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> Ok Major...so I've tried to organize a oven but noone will let me use theirs,so I can't bake these coils like you've asked,trust me I have reasoned and pleaded but women are protective about their ovens hehe.I was left with only one option against our better judgement but only because I have no other way,please don't see it as me not taking advice,it really could not be helped and I value your input!
> 
> I had to take a toothbrush with a cup of thinners and gently scrub the paint off bit by bit.I couldn't get all of it off as it left a light red hue on the coils.I then wiped any residue away with a cloth.I then brought out my 3 bar gas heater and positioned the coils infront of it while all 3 bars were on,the coils were max about 10 centimeters from the heater.I had no way of telling exact temperature but I could not touch the coil side facing the heater by hand.All that happened was a VERY fine vapor came off the coils but seem to stop.Each coil got about 4-5 minutes facing the heater.The was no discolouration on the coils.
> 
> ...


Hi off,

I think you should store the coils in a warm ventilated place for a week or so and let all the thinner gas out. Then coat with insulating varnish spray. Heat to cure and set for a day. Repeat with second coat, and third if you have it. I didn't see a temperature rating on the spray. Hopefully it is class H, 180 dC. Yes, the glass tape (used to be cotton) needs to be impregnated with the varnish.

The terminals (studs) need be taped (masked) off. Try to avoid drips or excessive build up of varnish where the pole shoes fit in if they were a tight fit to start with. Multiple thin coats are best. 

If this works well on the field coils, consider the same on the comm coils. If all that goes well, let's talk about the armature 

major


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## offgrid (Oct 15, 2011)

major said:


> If this works well on the field coils, consider the same on the comm coils. If all that goes well, let's talk about the armature
> 
> major


Perfect! I will let the field coils air.  Above you say consider the same on the comm coils...in others words the inter pole coils?

Armature seems to be in the best shape,but we will cross that bridge when we there lol.

Thanks!


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

offgrid said:


> Above you say consider the same on the comm coils...in others words the inter pole coils?


Yep.............


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