# Programming KDZ48500 Kelly Controller



## cruisin (Jun 3, 2009)

thesisshit said:


> Hello and I am a complete newbie regarding this electrical device. I ordered a KDZ48500 controller
> 
> Since it is pre-programmed and we dont want to damage the controller, what should be our initial voltage source? given the requirements:
> 
> ...


Not a good choice as Kelly is junk. Lots of luck with the programming and support form Kelly. Very poor design and programming is the worst I have ever seen. Their support leads a lot to be desired. Good luck.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Well, probably not so bad for small power application! And I hope than the KDZ series is now better than her KD predecessor.

From what I can see in the manual (read it) about the J2 pin:

1- PWR: Controller power supply (input) = 12v+
2- RTN: Signal return, or power supply ground = 12v -

And you have buy a 48v controller, so the max battery voltage is 60v. Don't exceed it when the battery are full charge.


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## thesisshit (Dec 7, 2011)

Alright, I'lll put that into account  Thank you. I'll let you guys know if something comes up. I will pray for the best!!!


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## Guest (Dec 7, 2011)

Follow the directions. Read the manual. Then read it again. Then once more to be sure. You don't have to program the controller for your pack voltage. The controller knows what your using. I have used my 72 volt controller at 30 volts and did not have to configure that 30 volts. http://kellycontroller.com/KDZhelp.php

If your pack voltage goes below 18 volts your controller will no longer work. For small vehicles the Kelly is just fine. Be sure to heat sink your controller. Do not skimp on this and be sure to remember that it will also need a thin film of thermal grease between the sink and controller. A good fan on the heat sink fins is a must as well. 

What motor are you using?

By the way. Kelly Controller has stellar customer service. I have seen way more american companies with horrible customer service vs those from China. 

My setup is a KDZ72600 software modified for these specific motors.


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## Guest (Dec 7, 2011)

Your controller needs 12 volts and if you buy a Kelly DC DC converter you won't be sorry. They are excellent DC DC converters. Be sure to get one that outputs the 13.6 or 13.8 volt range vs the one that only puts out 12 volts. Your DC DC is isolated and will be good to power your vehicle 12 requirements just fine if you don't have much else to power. Get a DC DC for your pack requirements. So if you have a nominal 48 volt pack get the 48 volt DC DC converter. They are quiet and stay cool and pump out good power.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

I have a Kelly HSE. For the 12V inputs I used the car's original 12V system. This separates that power supply from the main pack. Do not apply the full pack, or tap the main pack, to power your controller's 12V inputs. As said earlier, you could also get a DC-DC converter that would bump pack voltage down to 12V -- you'd want to be sure that's an isolated DC-DC so it doesn't hurt your controller.


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## thesisshit (Dec 7, 2011)

Thank you for all the replies so far, we will keep it onto mind. btw is there a current range that we should follow when programming the controller?

may I also ask if its alright not to use dc dc converter since we are planning to use 24V for our electric vehicle.


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## Guest (Dec 8, 2011)

You can change the current if you want. It is done by percentage. Did you look at the demo page with what the user interface looks like and what can be done? Why 24 volts? 12 will be easier unless your contractors you have are 24 volt coils.


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## thesisshit (Dec 7, 2011)

After connecting the +12V and -12V to pins 8 and 13 respectively using a AC to DC adaptor as a power supply and also the RS232 port to my computer and according to my pc it has detected the RS232, i am now having this kind of problem. What does this mean? and How to deal with it?


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