# Started Hyundai Accent 2002 conversion



## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Hi!
Started at the end of my summer hollidays July 2013 a project to do my electric car.
I read the Syco project for the same car. Was very surprised to see my car (same year - same grey color) but in Advanced conversion stage. Saddly I wrote Syco and he told me did sell the car because he was in my area (Saguenay - Québec).
So bought the car with a good body: not too much rust. Rust is a problem here because long winters with salty roads.
Why Hyundai Accent: very lightweight car, very common and low price - got mine for $300. Could have plenty of Mazdas newer for that price but very strong rust problems for these cars. My car had an electric problem but got all electric shemas on Hyundai site to find and fix the problem.

So preparing the car, I succeded to remove the engine by bottom. Searched feasiblity but got answers the engine was installed by the top. But you can remove the engine by the bottom: I did it with only basic Tools and a small manual lift.

Second step: found a motor form a man who did his electric car 25 years ago without internet all by himself (respect him). No plate on the motor: how to find what type of motor is this? There were only 3 connectors: A, Y and YY. The seller only told me DC motor 72 volts. Dimensions: 9.5inch diameter and 15 inches length. I suppose with the size to have about 50 HP. The original car is about 96 HP.
Controller: I got a SEPEX Curtis controller with the motor. Bad for a serial motor. I searched extensively if I can use it together. Only found one article here about setting parameters of the field to zero. Not possible with this controller. To be continued...


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

...continuation
Batteries: searched for good batteries after reading manythings on many sites.
So my choice finally went on 12 6 volts (for 72 volts total) US batteries 2200 XC2 (232Ah at 20h rate). I had a proposition form my seller to get Trojan batteries in place but when got the batteries these were only blackbox batteries without spécifications and no sticked on it (I wrote to Trojan about it): these batteries seems to be cheap Trojan batteries. Anybody heard about it?

Motor adapter: did not find one for Hyundai accent. Also as my motor is not a standard one, the fixing would not fit. My solution was to get my uncle (retired machinist) to have one machined to fix the motor to the clutch. Got it for $80. If you ever want one, write me and I could get one to you for about $200.

Actually Oct 2 2013 trying to mount motor to transmission. Have to get a metal plate to cover clutch and some L steel.

Question: how to separate my batteries between back and front? I think I will try 10 in the back and 2 in the front under the Hood. The front is not easy because not so many place (height 12 inches needed). I could place 2 in front (like radiator place) and 2 near firewall. Job not easy to do. Also the electric motor is 180 pounds:more than my gas engine (about 140 pounds)

To be continued...


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Hi, I am back...
I ordered material for my project and received almost everything. All ordered separatly from eBay. I finished my connection schema I join to this post for comments... Excel format not a valid extension so will try joining a pdf. Ask if you want the Excel to start your schema.

Actually working on motor support.

To be continued...


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

I am back... today January 21.

I had some problems with my controller programmer Curtis model 1307. It sometimes work and sometimes not. It worked enough for me to test, check and change some parameters of my Curtis 1244-6601.

Did anybody had problem with Curtis programmer 1307-2101?

I checked the cables, the fuse and anything suspect and found nothing. I checked the voltage on the controller pins and it seems to be always steady 15Volts. I ordered a Serial to USB converter and tried to find Curtis software.
But after clearing some error codes, I succeded on January 7 to make my motor turn!!!! Yeah!!!

After this success, I completed fixing my motor to the Hyundai Accent transmission and axe to clutch: done! I have picture of that I will add.
I also installed my controller permanently. I am now ready to complete the gas pedal to the 0-5kOhm potentiometer. I will have to adjust controller parameters because the original Hyundai gas intake rotate 90Degrees (1/4 turn) and my potentiometer is 270 Degrees (3/4 turn) for full range.

Tonight I tested my vacuum pump (model 904-214 found on this website).
Does anyone know if there is a polarity for voltage + and - ?
It seem to work anyway and there is no indication on the pump or on the website http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=30657&SEName=904-214

For the SEPEX controller used with serial DC motor, I connected a heater as resistance for my tests. I will retry with a bulb light 100W later.

So I will take some days of break because it is minus 24 C degrees and they say -30C tomorrow. I cannot heat my garage enough to be comfortable to work... Québec winter!


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Picture of motor in the car with controller (view from top)


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Picture of battery bank. Also power fuse in the center. 60 Volts (10 times 6 US batteries deep charge)


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## Mark C (Jun 25, 2010)

Nice looking conversion so far.  I'll be watching and looking forward to your progress.


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## samwichse (Jan 28, 2012)

Rej said:


> Picture of motor in the car with controller


Is there no plate between the front of the motor and the transmission?

Those long threaded rods look ready to shear off at a moment's notice. I do see the back is mounted (rubber mount?) but the threaded rod thing looks none to stable to me.


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Hi, thanks for replies

to samwichse: I did not find any commercial plate for Hyundai Accent. Also, my motor is a used forklift serial motor 9inches diameter by 18 inches long (180 pounds). I had the adaptor between 4 holes motor head and 4 holes Hyundai clutch plate machined locally. On the wheel side, I fixed the left side of the motor in the original rubber/metal fixation (used 2 of the 3 holes). On the transmission side, there are 4 holes: 2 Under are used to get the motor weight from the motor fixation base on each side Under. The 2 rods on the top are only there to keep the motor from bending relative to transmission (no weight on it).
I fixed the adaptor on the clutch plate first then inserted it in the transmission. I added a metal sheet between the motor and the transmission (with a hole in the center) to avoid dirt going in. Then the motor was fixed to the transmission. After being sure the motor axle was in line with the transmission, I bolted the adaptor 4 bolts to the motor: there is no weight on the axle.

I will try to add more pictures showing the details.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Rej said:


> I will try to add more pictures showing the details.


Yes, it's a good idea because at first look, your adapter seem strange and some important problems can occur if motor isn't correctly fix/allign with the transmission.


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Ok back for continuation... I wrote a long text but had an interruption so loosed mt text... frustrating.

Short version:
- I did my first test yesterday on blocks with everything installed fine. Success!!! Tested my breaks (vacuum electric pump ford low cost). Tested the controller and it works! It is possible to use SEPEX controller for serial motor.
- It is still very cold, -23 Celcius yesterday, so will do a first road test this weekend if not too cold.
- Had to buy 15kOhms potentiometer instead of 5k because I kept the Hyundai gas control (pedal, cable and carburator) and only 90 degrees rotation. The potentiometer are usually abouit 270 degrees rotation so 5k is about 90 degrees.

Will post pictures later.

I will keep you informed of road test. Stay safe!


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## johnjcbs (Oct 10, 2012)

I'm interested in this build.Any pics yet?


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## russatt (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi

Please could you post some pics of your throttle controller/potentiometer to carb

Sounds interesting


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Hi, I did my first road test today: 3 km on the street with -10 Celcius and some snow. Very pleased everythings is fine. I tested first, second and third speed (about 35km/h) and also back to the garage.
You can see the video on Youtube. Search "youtube hyundai accent electric 2002" on Google.

Started August 2012 so about 6 months elapsed time to do my project.
I still have to do some improvements to have the car all safe for the government (SAAQ).
I have pictures following...


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Pictures taken today: The Hyundai carburator with on top the cable and bottom the potentiometer.


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Picture of one of the 2 fixations under the motor (2 bolts on the motor, one on the transmission):


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Picture of the finished circuit Under the Hood:


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Picture of the vacuum pump (left), pipes and tank (black pipe on the right 3 inches diameter by 18 inches long):


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Picture of the control panel (in place of the radio). I still have to make some identifications. First switch on the left is controller power. Second is "Forward enable". Volts of the batteries with voltmeter switch (actually charging explain high voltage for 10x6v batteries) and finally amperage.


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## johnjcbs (Oct 10, 2012)

Rej said:


> Hi, I did my first road test today: 3 km on the street with -10 Celcius and some snow. Very pleased everythings is fine. I tested first, second and third speed (about 35km/h) and also back to the garage.
> You can see the video on Youtube. Search "youtube hyundai accent electric 2002" on Google.
> 
> Started August 2012 so about 6 months elapsed time to do my project.
> ...


Do you have a link for the video? That Google search just brings up the usual garbage.


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## johnjcbs (Oct 10, 2012)

Found the video,spelling of electric was different.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsPTzLOC4Ms


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

You say only a few things left to be legal saaq . Dont go to inspection !!!! You will not pass and will be marked as illegal to drive . I already pmed you for this ?? Vehicules in quebec after 1998 need to demonstrate the airbags deploy the same after conversion . Meaning you need to do 3 crash tests. Unless your rich forget it !! Nothing is legal in your setup . Wiring , back up alarms , inertia switch ? Weight distribution ? Gross vehicule weight ? I dont mean to be an ass just saving your car from inpound ! Dont go to the saaq ! If you want the law book send me your email ill forward you it . My build is in close partnership and supervision with the saaq engineers for electric vehicules . Hense i know the laws and thats why i did not convert my 2001 bmw but bought a 1997


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Link to the video on Google:
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...=sb7dajx6w7gUyPTUfIB1Yg&bvm=bv.61535280,d.b2I

On Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsPTzLOC4Ms


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## samwichse (Jan 28, 2012)

Some people just can't wait to get out and try their EV .

I love your ammeter, BTW. You need a matching voltimeter right next to it on the dash for the proper retro look though.


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Hi Sam
Thanks for comment. I understand you see it as retro but I made it because: voltage vary slowly so digital is a good choice. For amperage, it vary as fast as amperage fluctuate so I wanted an "old style" analogical indicator to see the fluctuation and not only "instant" values as a digital indicator would have given.
Do you think it is a good choice if you dont think about the look? Or do you have a digital ammeter to recommend to me?


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

crackerjackz said:


> You say only a few things left to be legal saaq . Dont go to inspection !!!! You will not pass and will be marked as illegal to drive.


I would say the same thing... no because of your car, because saaq are gang of f..ker with people who modified car.
But if you try to pass the inspection, please let us know how it was and share your experiment.

And if you need some help or parts, let me know. I've good experience and access to machines tool. If I can help...
Good luck.


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

Yabert said:


> I would say the same thing... no because of your car, because saaq are gang of f..ker with people who modified car.
> But if you try to pass the inspection, please let us know how it was and share your experiment.
> 
> And if you need some help or parts, let me know. I've good experience and access to machines tool. If I can help...
> Good luck.


the saaq isn't a bunch of fuckers they just don't want dangerous crap conversions on the road ! remember if theres an accident in quebec they pay for all bodily injuries forever and ever !! .... so no wonder they don't want 2002 accents with 800 pounds of batteries in the trunk with wooden crates and crappy wiring and even worse removed power steering . why not cut the brake lines while your at it ! . f*&(&? what don't people understand the saaq inspection is hard to pass yes ! but they make it even harder everytime shitboxes go to pass ! so STOP bringing shitty conversions for inspection . everything is regulated ! the wiring type , the year of cars possible , the amount of vaccum pressure on the brake pump , battery location ect just to name a few ! nothing in this accent is legal from a to z .


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

crackerjackz said:


> the saaq... just don't want dangerous crap conversions on the road !


Of course, but...
Well, too much debate could be start here. So I will only wish you good luck to you and let us know if you can legally convert a usefull* electric car in Quebec (*here I exclude old rusty pick-up and antique cars).
Rej, best luck and continue to ask advice and learn to improve your car.


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

To make myself clear . I think its great he converted a car . I think its wonderful even . Its just the news lately here are filled with people bitching because there conversions get impounded . They blame the saaq ect ... Truth is there conversions on dangerous and very poorly designed . And definetly not up to the canada electric code standards . 
Rej just has to realize he will not pass inspection and should not try .


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Hi again,
Thanks for comments. I started to prepare one thing at a time for SAAQ inspection. Yes I wrote "some" but I know I will have more work to do to try becoming "SAAQ" approved than until now to try my car.
So first question: how to build a battery box (acid-lead) that can get 20g road align, 15 g side and 10 g vertical? Does I have the right to discard back seats and use that place? Anyone have drawing of a battery box somewhere? And also I need to ventilate for gases (SAAQ say it is poison but they should say "explosive" instead): how to integrate it to the box?
Thanks to help me.
Does canadian electric code apply to cars? I though it was for buildings?


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

Year of vehicule aside as you seem stuck on thinking you can make your car legal without having the proper years . 

You need to seal off the inside of vehicule to the battery air and ventilate it using fans . Meaning make a air tight sealed box and ventilate it outside . 

Ill be using lithiums so no need to ventilate . Ill be using 12 gauge aluminium plates to make the boxes then reinforce with aluminium bars to solidify . G´s are the force they need to withstand make it as strong and lightwait as possible. 

Dont forget to heat the batteries in winter or else your range will greatly suffer .

Just so you know i had over 3 hours of total discussions with the saaq ingeneers regarding year and airbag laws . Its a lost cause . And my wife made me realize that instead of wasting my time trying to get my 2001 bmw approuved id be better using my time if i bought a 97 and just followed there rules . 

The saaq is society funded . They will win if they want it enough in courts . Im not willing to waste my time and money on that fact . But honestly cheers to you if you do .


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

By the way yes electrical code applies to the vehicules as well ... Anything electrical over 30 volts is canada regulated ...


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

There were 4 holes in manual transmission to hold the original motor.
I did not find any commercial plate for Hyundai Accent.
My motor is a used forklift motor usually fixed each side Under.
So I did 2 steel angles Under each side: 2 bolts on the motor and one on the transmission each angle. On the top, the was only 1 hole to lift the motor so I did 1 steel U and fixed it on the motor and each upside to the transmission. This upper fixation do not hold the weight: it only keep the motor from bending relative to the transmission.
I added a metal sheet between but only to keep dirt outside of the transmission.


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

Hi, long time so here are the news about my project:
- I run my car from april 1st to go to work.
- I am still working on improvements about government requirements to eventually get it approved.
- I made my permanent ventilated box for batteries.
- I actually have over 200km done. My longest trip was about 15km and with the residual voltage, I estimate possible to do over 40km before needing a recharge. I recharge every night to try having the maximum battery life.
- My maximum speed is actually 70km/h if I go to 5th speed. I think my "serial" motor is limiting: it have big starting torque but I need to shift manual speed early to be able to go faster. I will try to install a speedometer to have motor rpm. But no problem in the slopes. My ammhemeter indicate about 200Amp maximum current when starting and goes down to about 100A when at full throttle and steady speed. I tunned the SEPEX Curtis controller but it given limited improvement.

Questions if you can help:
- where to buy DLO or electric car cables? I am actually using welding cable but need to change because insulation too cheap for car use.
- How or where to install gas pedal contact switch and security contactor?
- Wheight is ok for my rear axle (without any more rear passengers) but I would like to uplift a little the suspension: how to do that (for a Hyundai Accent)?

Regards, Rej


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## Rej (Aug 25, 2013)

I forgot to write I calculated my project cost: $5 600 Canadian on April 1.
I think this is a very low cost project.
Major costs:
Car $300
Reparations $1600 (breaks and suspension)
Batteries: $1600
Used motor and controller: $600
Write me if you want the complete detailed list on Excel.
I am actually saving gas but still buying parts for improvement.
My actual thoughts are: lower cost would be bicycle and bus.
As I am only 3km from work, electric car is not saving me money.
But I have fun


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

Rej said:


> Hi, long time so here are the news about my project:
> - I run my car from april 1st to go to work.
> - I am still working on improvements about government requirements to eventually get it approved.
> - I made my permanent ventilated box for batteries.
> ...



Your hard headed in the wrong sense of the term ... 

You should have done your homework before removing the ice in your car ... 

Im glad you like your car and all the better if its up to your standards and needs ... Its the last warning im giving you ... Bring your car to the saaq inspection . It will leave on a towing and never be allowed back on the road ...


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

As for the dlo wiring go to any lumen / franklin / westburne electric supplier chain .... But youll just waste your money because its expensive and wont make your car legal ... 


As for the gas pedal contact switch if your using a potbox like a pb6 for the throttle use the switch on that ... Your security contact needs to be in series with your traction pack and motor controller ... You need 2 properly rated contacts ... 1 turned on by the ignition the other by the gas pedal ...

As for the weight ... Your suppose to calculate 70 kg per passenger and 10 kg of luggage per passanger ... To raise the rear all you could do is put stiffer springs on the suspension ...


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## Mark C (Jun 25, 2010)

Rej,

I'm happy for you that you're having fun. I hope you can enjoy it for quite some time! 

Regarding your rear axle weight concern, for my wife's old Buick, we used air bags that go inside the rear springs and add support to the suspension. They kept it from looking like a tail dragger every time we bought groceries. Just had to insert them into the rear springs, connect the fill lines and secure them and add air to suit you. We ran about 15 psi in her car.

Mark


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

Yabert said:


> Of course, but...
> Well, too much debate could be start here. So I will only wish you good luck to you and let us know if you can legally convert a usefull* electric car in Quebec (*here I exclude old rusty pick-up and antique cars).
> Rej, best luck and continue to ask advice and learn to improve your car.


 
my conversion is officially licensed with a green license plate since august 21st 2014 ... in quebec  ... all the inspections and mandatory spot checks and paperwork have been passed successfully and legaly  ... 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Phil-Electrik/209154002608648?ref=hl


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