# Greatland Controller and ~Ac motor



## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

Ohm out the 3 motor leads to ground, maybe its a ground fault. 

Ohm out the 3 motor leads to each other (L1-L2, L2-L3, L1-L3). 

Maybe a loose connection? Bad contactor or fuse? Does the system use an encoder or tach for motor speed feedback?

With motor disconnected see if you have power at each of the 3 phases out of the drive. This will be difficult using a DVM. You could try hooking up light bulbs between the phases. 

Open the drive up and see if there is anything burned up.

Does the motor turn freely? Could it be a loose coupling on the shaft?


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## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

I recall seeing that motor/controller kit on Ebay few months back. It looked underpowered even for small 4 wheel car. Which vehicle did you install it in? What is the vehicle weight with batteries? Was it overheating when it was working? Did you have any temperature monitoring in place?

I also recall thinking that if something happened to that controller, what would I do to fix it?

really sorry about your trouble, wish I could help


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## mjcrow (Jan 5, 2008)

Sorry to hear you are having problems, I am interested in one of the motor and controller combos that Greatlands have on their website (the Chinese one) but quite a bit larger than yours. I have emailed them a few times with no response. I would be interested in how you went with dealing with them (up till now), and if you have been able to contact them with the problem you are having now. 

Also can you put up some pics of your car and setup, I'm sure quite a few of us would like to see it.

Hope you can get it fixed soon.

Michael


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

etischer said:


> Ohm out the 3 motor leads to ground, maybe its a ground fault.
> Thanks for replying. The motor has no ground and the casing is made of aluminium. I will show you a pic of the motor and controller.
> 
> Ohm out the 3 motor leads to each other (L1-L2, L2-L3, L1-L3).
> ...


The car was all right, nothing was wrong with it. It all strarted after I finished installing 5 powercheq equlizers between lead acid maintenance free batteries. 
I disconnected the equilizers again and the problem remained. I know that I installed the equilizers starting from the last battery instead from the first battery, resulting a blown 3A fuse from the equilizer. But than I figured out the problem and reinstalled the equilizers correctly. Let me tell you why I installed the equilizers the other way round, because I have a *PakTrakr 600 *and its wiring are connected the other way round, starting from the negative. Anyway one should be carefull.


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

dimitri said:


> I recall seeing that motor/controller kit on Ebay few months back. It looked underpowered even for small 4 wheel car. Which vehicle did you install it in? What is the vehicle weight with batteries? Was it overheating when it was working? Did you have any temperature monitoring in place?
> The car is about 700kg but never weight it. I have the smart version.
> With that motor setup I went up hills very high more than 30deg with 4 persons onboard.
> But I have to admit, that it was driving too slow and I do not think it is for 4 persons car.
> ...


Can any one tell me what is this in the pic? It is found between the controller's negative lead and the negative of the last battery power supply.


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

mjcrow said:


> Sorry to hear you are having problems, I am interested in one of the motor and controller combos that Greatlands have on their website (the Chinese one) but quite a bit larger than yours. I have emailed them a few times with no response. I would be interested in how you went with dealing with them (up till now), and if you have been able to contact them with the problem you are having now.
> 
> Also can you put up some pics of your car and setup, I'm sure quite a few of us would like to see it.
> 
> ...


Dear Mjcrow,
I have ordered 2 electric cars from China. I got the cars with the setup installed. But I am very dissappointed as I ordered 2 new cars with a good setup, and they sent me a new car and the other second hand. It had 1500 km, and the 2 car had not the setup I ordered. For example, I ordered 200ah lead acid maintenance free for both cars. They sent one car with 145ah maintenance batteries (I have to add water). The other car had 150ah. The thing is that I paid extra for 200ah batteries and one cannot trust them.
I ordered 6.5kw ac motor and 300amp controller. They sent 5kw motor with 260amp controller, on both cars.
They sent the back seat without seatbelts, and the finishing of the cars are very bad. 

What I can suggest to you regarding ordering from the chinese site, get someone who can translate and understand their way of thinking.


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

Is your car something like this one?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/925989352.html

The article mentions a Greatland Controller and if it is similar, you might be able to contact the person at the phone number in his ad and ask about it.

Sounds like he sells them and parts.


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

jbond said:


> Can any one tell me what is this in the pic? It is found between the controller's negative lead and the negative of the last battery power supply.


My guess searching on the part number is a DC magnetic contactor.

NOTE: If the webpage opens and asks you to display the non-secure information, click No...(just in case)

https://www.asianproducts.com/compa..._id=P11963140048846249&cno=A11961262843181421


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## Shagbark (Oct 23, 2008)

mjcrow said:


> Sorry to hear you are having problems, I am interested in one of the motor and controller combos that Greatlands have on their website (the Chinese one) but quite a bit larger than yours. I have emailed them a few times with no response. I would be interested in how you went with dealing with them (up till now), and if you have been able to contact them with the problem you are having now.
> 
> Also can you put up some pics of your car and setup, I'm sure quite a few of us would like to see it.
> 
> ...


Michael, I wander if you could hook me up with Greatland's web address? I have a Wildfire Motors WF120V with an 8.5 KW AC system in it and would like to know more about the controller and where to buy one without fooling around with Wildfire Motors. All I've found so far are the sites (GLEVP & Shunzeng(?) North America) that appear to be owned buy the same guy that pulled the Spark EV hoax. 

Thanks, Frank


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## mjcrow (Jan 5, 2008)

Hi Frank,

Their website is http://glelec.com/ 

Michael

And welcome to the forums


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## Shagbark (Oct 23, 2008)

mjcrow said:


> Hi Frank,
> 
> Their website is http://glelec.com/
> 
> ...


 
Thank you Michael for the website and the welcome. I'm trying to figure out if some of these little cars may have the same motor/controller setup in them but are programed differently to match the car's battery pack. If so, a guy with a 6.5-KW setup may only need to change the number of batteries in his pack, adjust the voltage parameters with the software, get a different charger etc. to have an 8.5-KW system. Or, in my case to move up to a 10.5-KW, 144V system. 
A couple of things I've noticed about my car: If you start it with the FW/RV switch in reverse with your foot on the brake, the car thinks you're trying to program it and wont go anywhere when you step on the pedal. This drove me crazy when I first got it and I thought something was wrong with it until I popped the software in my computer one day out of curiosity and found the little read me file. Once I began starting the car in forward it's worked perfectly every time. Also, if I leave home on a full charge and go down a steep hill the car will shut off. I'm guessing that this is because the batteries can't absorb the energy from the re-gen fast enough because the voltage in the pack is too high. The controller senses the voltage building up and kills the car. The re-gen is adjustable with the software, but I don't have a laptop and don't want to drag my PC out in the driveway to adjust it. I'm going to have my son bring his laptop with him the next time he comes this way so I can adjust it. No more benefit than one gets from it, I may just turn it off and see what happens.


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

I don't know how much control you have with the software, but I taper my regen torque limit as the voltage increases. So by 375 volts, my regen torque limit is zero. This prevents the drive from faulting, and maximizes my regen torque. 



Shagbark said:


> Thank you Michael for the website and the welcome. I'm trying to figure out if some of these little cars may have the same motor/controller setup in them but are programed differently to match the car's battery pack. If so, a guy with a 6.5-KW setup may only need to change the number of batteries in his pack, adjust the voltage parameters with the software, get a different charger etc. to have an 8.5-KW system. Or, in my case to move up to a 10.5-KW, 144V system.
> A couple of things I've noticed about my car: If you start it with the FW/RV switch in reverse with your foot on the brake, the car thinks you're trying to program it and wont go anywhere when you step on the pedal. This drove me crazy when I first got it and I thought something was wrong with it until I popped the software in my computer one day out of curiosity and found the little read me file. Once I began starting the car in forward it's worked perfectly every time. Also, if I leave home on a full charge and go down a steep hill the car will shut off. I'm guessing that this is because the batteries can't absorb the energy from the re-gen fast enough because the voltage in the pack is too high. The controller senses the voltage building up and kills the car. The re-gen is adjustable with the software, but I don't have a laptop and don't want to drag my PC out in the driveway to adjust it. I'm going to have my son bring his laptop with him the next time he comes this way so I can adjust it. No more benefit than one gets from it, I may just turn it off and see what happens.


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## Shagbark (Oct 23, 2008)

jbond said:


> I have an electric car which is driven with a Greatland controller and motor. The voltage system is 72v, the controller is 260A, and the motor is 5Kw.
> I bought the system not from the american site, be carefull. From the chinese site.
> After using my electric car for 3 months, now the display is showing an error " E-2". And the car would not drive.
> Did any one have the same problem I am facing?
> ...


 
Chris, what Chinese site did you buy this from? I have a Greatland system too, but the only site I've found is the one Michael linked me to below. The problem is that it's in Chinese only and I don't speak Chinese. Did you find an English site? Thanks, Frank


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## wd9hik (May 7, 2010)

I had a some a what similar problem after a few months of driving the Qingqi EV with a 120 volt 8.5KW motor. It seemed like the IGBTs were cross firing. After checking the motor, the IGBTs and a bunch of other things... I found a bad battery that had an intermittent short. I would suggest you check each battery individually with a heavy load (something around 100 amps for a few seconds) and note the voltage under load. All the batteries should read the same + or - less than a volt when fully charged. I replaced the shorted battery (that only shorted under a load) and one other weak one. Batteries were less than 2 years old and I did not think they would be bad with less than 50 miles on them..

The E-2 error code is "IGBT trouble" (if it is the same controller I have from Great land)
If yours are the same IGBTs used in the controller I have, they are about $240 each and there is a set of three. Get me the number and if it is the same set I bought, I might make you a deal on the set, or one if you wish.

Good luck in finding the problem and keep us posted.
Chris
WD9HIK







jbond said:


> I have an electric car which is driven with a Greatland controller and motor. The voltage system is 72v, the controller is 260A, and the motor is 5Kw.
> I bought the system not from the american site, be carefull. From the chinese site.
> After using my electric car for 3 months, now the display is showing an error " E-2". And the car would not drive.
> Did any one have the same problem I am facing?
> ...


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

wd9hik said:


> I had a some a what similar problem after a few months of driving the Qingqi EV with a 120 volt 8.5KW motor. It seemed like the IGBTs were cross firing. After checking the motor, the IGBTs and a bunch of other things... I found a bad battery that had an intermittent short. I would suggest you check each battery individually with a heavy load (something around 100 amps for a few seconds) and note the voltage under load. All the batteries should read the same + or - less than a volt when fully charged. I replaced the shorted battery (that only shorted under a load) and one other weak one. Batteries were less than 2 years old and I did not think they would be bad with less than 50 miles on them..
> 
> The E-2 error code is "IGBT trouble" (if it is the same controller I have from Great land)
> If yours are the same IGBTs used in the controller I have, they are about $240 each and there is a set of three. Get me the number and if it is the same set I bought, I might make you a deal on the set, or one if you wish.
> ...


Dear WD9HIK,
Yes the problem was the batteries, I had 2 batteries bad. I thought I already left a message stating how I got to solve this problem. But thanks for your comments. And sorry for not leaving my feedback. The only problem I have now, is that I have to change all the batteries to be able to charge the system properly, and deep cycle batteries are a bit expensive.


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

I have another ecar with greatland Controller and with AC brushless motor. Lately I am facing another problem. When I strat to drive, this car start to shake where I could hear the motor shiverring forward and reverse, as if only 2 phases are working. It must be the controller. I contacted the Chinese seller to send me the controllers programme software in American language but did not reply to my emails. I contacted the maker of Greatland and they also did not send me this software even though I offered them to pay for the software. With the software I might get a clear vision of what is making the motor freaky.
I also noticed that the motor freaks when the ampere meter shows high current (30 amps) without even start to drive. If I switch on the key to start driving and the ampere meter is zero, the car take off without any problems, but most of the times I find the ampere meter already showing 30amps after a few minutes without pressing the trottle to drive. It must be that there is something wrong with the regeneration controller. 
I gave the controller to a technician but still have not found what the problem is.
If I solve this problem I will leave my feedback, but I would greatly appreciate any suggestions and comments from you. Your feedback might lead me to solve this problem.


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## wd9hik (May 7, 2010)

This is what I did to replace the two batteries out of 10 in my vehicle. All 10 original were 105 AH ,and all I could fine close to the physical and AH size was 110AH and 1/8" taller.. There will be some imbalance with the series charger... I brought wires from each battery (15A fused at the battery) to a selector switch to a digital voltmeter. I can look at each 12v battery and see the individual voltage (to 2 decimal poins..0.01v). The two new batteries have a lower voltage after several charge/didcharges. I can now plug in a 12v charger to that individual battery and balance out the charge. Not the perfect situation, but has worked well so far and did not have to buy 10 new batteries......


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

Shagbark said:


> Thank you Michael for the website and the welcome. I'm trying to figure out if some of these little cars may have the same motor/controller setup in them but are programed differently to match the car's battery pack. If so, a guy with a 6.5-KW setup may only need to change the number of batteries in his pack, adjust the voltage parameters with the software, get a different charger etc. to have an 8.5-KW system. Or, in my case to move up to a 10.5-KW, 144V system.
> A couple of things I've noticed about my car: If you start it with the FW/RV switch in reverse with your foot on the brake, the car thinks you're trying to program it and wont go anywhere when you step on the pedal. This drove me crazy when I first got it and I thought something was wrong with it until I popped the software in my computer one day out of curiosity and found the little read me file. Once I began starting the car in forward it's worked perfectly every time. Also, if I leave home on a full charge and go down a steep hill the car will shut off. I'm guessing that this is because the batteries can't absorb the energy from the re-gen fast enough because the voltage in the pack is too high. The controller senses the voltage building up and kills the car. The re-gen is adjustable with the software, but I don't have a laptop and don't want to drag my PC out in the driveway to adjust it. I'm going to have my son bring his laptop with him the next time he comes this way so I can adjust it. No more benefit than one gets from it, I may just turn it off and see what happens.


 Dear /shagbark,
Can you please send me a copy of your controller's software? I would greatly appreciated as I need to adjust some settings to my greatland controller.

regards
Chris


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

jbond said:


> Dear /shagbark,
> Can you please send me a copy of your controller's software? I would greatly appreciated as I need to adjust some settings to my greatland controller.
> 
> regards
> Chris


Based on all the experiences would you recommend a greatland 10KW AC motor and controller ? I am thinking of making this purchase.


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

Ravishankar said:


> Based on all the experiences would you recommend a greatland 10KW AC motor and controller ? I am thinking of making this purchase.


 
Dear Ravishankar,
Yes and no, the motor and controller do work under alot of pressure and in hot days. The only problem I had is with the controller. I had to replace all the capacitors as they were cheap and not good. But now on the road again. I have the 5kw, the 10kw should be more powerfull.

Though it is a pitty that I did not manage to aquire the greatland controller's software. I contacted the manufacturer and did not send me a copy. I assume he wants me to purchase another motor and controller, including their software.

regards
Chris


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## roger (Jan 24, 2010)

Hello all,

I consider to try out the 20/30kw/144Volt AC system, it should be the most powerful AC drive from Glelec at this time. Is there anybody here with experience on this system? 

Thanks in advance

Roger


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

roger said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I consider to try out the 20/30kw/144Volt AC system, it should be the most powerful AC drive from Glelec at this time. Is there anybody here with experience on this system?
> 
> ...


I just received the 10KW 144V AC motor and controller from glelec. I chose it since it had a more flatter constant power region. I also got the paremeter setting software, but not the controller software. After reading jbond's comments, I thinking whether I should also open the controleller and replace all capacitors. There are not many who have used glelec's system, indeed none at all in evalbum.com!


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

jbond said:


> Dear Ravishankar,
> Yes and no, the motor and controller do work under alot of pressure and in hot days. The only problem I had is with the controller. I had to replace all the capacitors as they were cheap and not good. But now on the road again. I have the 5kw, the 10kw should be more powerfull.
> 
> Though it is a pitty that I did not manage to aquire the greatland controller's software. I contacted the manufacturer and did not send me a copy. I assume he wants me to purchase another motor and controller, including their software.
> ...


Hi chris,
Please can you tell me which capacitors you replace. What was the make originally and with what you replaced ? Also I did not understand the meaning of some the pins. I also did not get why there is a forward switch and reverse switch.? Also I did not get which is the REGEN switch. Also there is +5V, AccPed Input and -5V. And they say AccPed is 0-5V..Which throttle pot did you use and what was the impedance..?


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

jbond said:


> I bought the system not from the american site, be carefull. From the chinese site.
> 
> regards
> Chris


Hi Chris,

I bought directly from chinese site, after discussions with sales staff. Took sometime because of customs examination, but eventually got it. Express shipping through DHL cost me USD 350..


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

Ravishankar said:


> I just received the 10KW 144V AC motor and controller from glelec. I chose it since it had a more flatter constant power region. I also got the paremeter setting software, but not the controller software. After reading jbond's comments, I thinking whether I should also open the controleller and replace all capacitors. There are not many who have used glelec's system, indeed none at all in evalbum.com!


 Hi Ravishankar,
What size is the file of the paremeter setting software?


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## roger (Jan 24, 2010)

Ravishankar said:


> I just received the 10KW 144V AC motor and controller from glelec. I chose it since it had a more flatter constant power region. I also got the paremeter setting software, but not the controller software. After reading jbond's comments, I thinking whether I should also open the controleller and replace all capacitors. There are not many who have used glelec's system, indeed none at all in evalbum.com!


Hello Ravishankar,

do you really think there are bad capacitors at your system, too? Think Jbond´s system is other type with unknown usage age, and Glelec should have recognized this problem. The problem of electrolytic capacitors is that they dry and change their capacity or get worse over time. I can´t believe that they use bad quality until now.
Did you try the parameter software, can you please tell us which parameters you´re able to change and how is the connection done, do you have to use an interface?

Roger


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

Ravishankar said:


> Hi chris,
> Please can you tell me which capacitors you replace. What was the make originally and with what you replaced ? Also I did not understand the meaning of some the pins. I also did not get why there is a forward switch and reverse switch.? Also I did not get which is the REGEN switch. Also there is +5V, AccPed Input and -5V. And they say AccPed is 0-5V..Which throttle pot did you use and what was the impedance..?


Hi Ravishankar,
Do you have a problem with your controller? I changed mine (Greatland - Glelec) as my controller was shutting down after few seconds. I just replaced all capacitors from 25V to 50V. The capacitors might have failed due to high temperatures as roger mentioned, as I live on a hot sunny island.


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

roger said:


> Hello Ravishankar,
> 
> do you really think there are bad capacitors at your system, too? Think Jbond´s system is other type with unknown usage age, and Glelec should have recognized this problem. The problem of electrolytic capacitors is that they dry and change their capacity or get worse over time. I can´t believe that they use bad quality until now.
> Did you try the parameter software, can you please tell us which parameters you´re able to change and how is the connection done, do you have to use an interface?
> ...


I have not tested it yet! I too think they may have solved in the capacitor problem, but I just want to be sure. 
Here is a screenshot of the paremeter setting software:


The connection is made thorugh a USB to serial converter. There is also driver software provided. They also provided a default cable in which the serial connections are made. May be later I can upload the pics


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## roger (Jan 24, 2010)

Ravishankar said:


> I have not tested it yet! I too think they may have solved in the capacitor problem, but I just want to be sure.
> Here is a screenshot of the paremeter setting software:
> 
> 
> The connection is made thorugh a USB to serial converter. There is also driver software provided. They also provided a default cable in which the serial connections are made. May be later I can upload the pics


Thanks for the shot and the information, think with the software you can get it tuned proper. How much did you pay for the system?


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## jbond (Mar 20, 2009)

Ravishankar said:


> I have not tested it yet! I too think they may have solved in the capacitor problem, but I just want to be sure.
> Here is a screenshot of the paremeter setting software:
> 
> 
> The connection is made thorugh a USB to serial converter. There is also driver software provided. They also provided a default cable in which the serial connections are made. May be later I can upload the pics


 
Hi Ravishankar,
I have the connection cable, but I do not have the driver software. Can you please upload a copy of the software or send me a copy to [email protected] . I would appreciate it very much.


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

I got the 10KW system at a promotional price of $1552.


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## PThompson509 (Jul 9, 2009)

I've got the 80kw motor and controller, but no software to update the settings on the controller. Do you think your software will work with my controller?

Cheers,
 Peter


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## roger (Jan 24, 2010)

Ravishankar said:


> I got the 10KW system at a promotional price of $1552.


Hello all,

today I received the 15/30kW 144Volts system. It seems to be an extended 10kW system. Quality looks good so far, but I didn´t tried it out yet. A USB to serial converter with a small USB driver installation CD was also included. But the settings software to the controller and the latest manual they didn´t deliver, anybody here with suited informations?

Regards 

Roger


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

roger said:


> Hello all,
> 
> today I received the 15/30kW 144Volts system. It seems to be an extended 10kW system. Quality looks good so far, but I didn´t tried it out yet. A USB to serial converter with a small USB driver installation CD was also included. But the settings software to the controller and the latest manual they didn´t deliver, anybody here with suited informations?
> 
> ...


One more user of Greatland Electric motors: thats good. The settings software you have to ask explicitly. I got that through Skype file transfer. There is no printed manual. Just the motor and controller documentation as a pdf file. But it has sufficient information. Not as professional as other EV motor vendors, but what the heck, they sell it at the most affordable price. One that is closer to the price that I have read in textbooks ..


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## roger (Jan 24, 2010)

Ravishankar said:


> One more user of Greatland Electric motors: thats good. The settings software you have to ask explicitly. I got that through Skype file transfer. There is no printed manual. Just the motor and controller documentation as a pdf file. But it has sufficient information. Not as professional as other EV motor vendors, but what the heck, they sell it at the most affordable price. One that is closer to the price that I have read in textbooks ..


I did send you a message. Roger


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

PThompson509 said:


> I've got the 80kw motor and controller, but no software to update the settings on the controller. Do you think your software will work with my controller?
> 
> Cheers,
> Peter


Hi Peter,

Can you share your experience with the 80KW Greatland system. Was it an AC or BLDC system?


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## PThompson509 (Jul 9, 2009)

Ravishankar said:


> Hi Peter,
> 
> Can you share your experience with the 80KW Greatland system. Was it an AC or BLDC system?


Hi, it is a BLDC. I've only gotten it to spin under command - no idea how good it is in general though. I'm having an adapter built now, so I hope to have the car back on the road by February.


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## mpevans (Feb 10, 2009)

jbond said:


> I have an electric car which is driven with a Greatland controller and motor. The voltage system is 72v, the controller is 260A, and the motor is 5Kw.
> I bought the system not from the american site, be carefull. From the chinese site.
> After using my electric car for 3 months, now the display is showing an error " E-2". And the car would not drive.
> Did any one have the same problem I am facing?
> ...


Hi Chris,

First, check your most positive and most negative terminals for full pack voltage.

Ensure you are using a precharge resistor on your main contactor. Greatland controllers are very commonly cooked by not using a precharge resistor across the terminals of your main contactor. 

Then, check your phases against your earth to determine if shorted. Check your connections on your controller. Sounds like something loose or burnt. 

Also, Greatland Electric do not have many English-speaking employees at their China plant. I always have to go through my contact at CALB to get in touch with them, because they typically don't bother to answer e-mails in English.

Hope this is helpful.

Kind Regards,

Mike Evans
Voltmotive (NZ) LTD


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

mpevans said:


> Hi Chris,
> 
> First, check your most positive and most negative terminals for full pack voltage.
> 
> Ensure you are using a precharge resistor on your main contactor. Greatland controllers are very commonly cooked by not using a precharge resistor across the terminals of your main contactor.


Thanks for that advice. We are going to test our Greatland motor and controller. I hope the previous mentioned problems are solved by now. But yet could you tell me something more about the precharge resistor. We are planning to use two of these contactors:

http://relays.te.com/datasheets/ev200.pdf

Does even this contactor require a precharge resistor ? And How to determine its value ?


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## mpevans (Feb 10, 2009)

Ravishankar said:


> Thanks for that advice. We are going to test our Greatland motor and controller. I hope the previous mentioned problems are solved by now. But yet could you tell me something more about the precharge resistor. We are planning to use two of these contactors:
> 
> http://relays.te.com/datasheets/ev200.pdf
> 
> Does even this contactor require a precharge resistor ? And How to determine its value ?


Hi, your precharge resistor is only necessary across your main contactor and it's purpose is to protect from the inrush of current into your controller circuitry when the main contactor completes the traction circuit. You only need a trickle of electricity to precharge your capacitors in the controller. Also, if you decide to leave the vehicle parked for a while, you may want to disconnect the precharge resistor because it will trickle your batteries dry, over time. 

I'd recommend a pair of Dai Do 5w x 180 ohm ceramic resistors, which will suit most applications requiring a precharge resistor. Twist the terminals together and then bend them to the desired shape (only bend them once!), and then solder your ring terminals onto the twisted pairs of the ends of the two resistors. 

The Tyco EV200 and LEV200 are both great choices for main contactors because they are sealed and because of their service life, although I like to use them for auxiliary relays for heaters and battery warmers, etc... I prefer to use the Albright SW200 (or similar) as main contactors so I can monitor the state of wear on the contacts and dress them if necessary. Good luck with your build! E-mail me if you want a photo of what a precharge resistor looks like, or you require more information on building one. [email protected]

Mike Evans
Director

Voltmotive (NZ) LTD
​


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## pvgoutham (Jul 13, 2011)

mpevans said:


> Hi, your precharge resistor is only necessary across your main contactor and it's purpose is to protect from the inrush of current into your controller circuitry when the main contactor completes the traction circuit. You only need a trickle of electricity to precharge your capacitors in the controller. Also, if you decide to leave the vehicle parked for a while, you may want to disconnect the precharge resistor because it will trickle your batteries dry, over time.
> 
> I'd recommend a pair of Dai Do 5w x 180 ohm ceramic resistors, which will suit most applications requiring a precharge resistor. Twist the terminals together and then bend them to the desired shape (only bend them once!), and then solder your ring terminals onto the twisted pairs of the ends of the two resistors.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike,

This is Vinay, I am working with Ravi in the EV conversions.
IT would be very grateful if you can send us the Photos of the precharge Resistors and how to connect them. I will email you regarding the same.

Regards,
Vinay


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## mpevans (Feb 10, 2009)

pvgoutham said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> This is Vinay, I am working with Ravi in the EV conversions.
> IT would be very grateful if you can send us the Photos of the precharge Resistors and how to connect them. I will email you regarding the same.
> ...


Hi Vinay,

Great, I have forwarded to your e-mail account. 

Kind Regards,

Mike


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## GARDENABEAR2 (Dec 31, 2011)

Hi frank , i was reading your chat, and i also have a wildfire wf-120 and am trying to increase speed,(only goes 25 mph) my car did not come with controller c/d and interface cable ? I got my car from someone that has five cars, and might be parting one out.
If you know of software i could purchase, i would be great full.
Stan, p.s distributor is no help.


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## GARDENABEAR2 (Dec 31, 2011)

Sorry to reply three years late, but i have 2 wf-120v i am parting out, may be 30 miles on either , on the same i am looking for the software and interface cable to increase speed.
Hope we can help each other.
Stan


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

PThompson509 said:


> I've got the 80kw motor and controller, but no software to update the settings on the controller. Do you think your software will work with my controller?
> 
> Cheers,
> Peter


Hi Peter,

In the EVDL List you say that you got the 80KW system working. Is this right ? Tomorrow I start to test the motor and controller and the parameter setting software. But at the moment we dont have information on what CAN messages the controller understands. Since the BMS needs to limit rpm, current etc, the Greatland controller may support that. Do you use this feature ? I am unsuccessful in getting this info from GL directly. No response yet. What are your views ?


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## PThompson509 (Jul 9, 2009)

Hi Ravi,

I have a document from them that details what information they send out via CANBus. I'll send it to you via PM. They also have serial communication with similar information. As far as I can tell, the Greatland controller does not listen to the CANBus.

Cheers,
Peter


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## Ravishankar (Jan 26, 2009)

PThompson509 said:


> Hi Ravi,
> 
> I have a document from them that details what information they send out via CANBus. I'll send it to you via PM. They also have serial communication with similar information. As far as I can tell, the Greatland controller does not listen to the CANBus.
> 
> ...


Hi Peter,

That document I already got from GL. So it seems like GL Controller does not support adjusting parameters dynamically, a pity..! Now the BMS must be programmed without any communication with Controller..


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## dbholder43 (Jan 13, 2013)

Ravishankar said:


> Hi chris,
> Please can you tell me which capacitors you replace. What was the make originally and with what you replaced ? Also I did not understand the meaning of some the pins. I also did not get why there is a forward switch and reverse switch.? Also I did not get which is the REGEN switch. Also there is +5V, AccPed Input and -5V. And they say AccPed is 0-5V..Which throttle pot did you use and what was the impedance..?



if anyone needs a copy of the software, I have it. It only works in windows 95 or 98 mode in windows 7. very crude software that rarely works correctly, I got to synchronize just once... I have the wv120v car, and amongst other things that have happened, the axle broke, reverse has never worked for me. I have been trying to find a schematic of this car and known exists so far. (all the wires on the controller hardness are white) ive use a bell ring tracer to find some, but not all.


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## GARDENABEAR2 (Dec 31, 2011)

Hi Chris and Ravishankar.
I have a Wildfire WF 120-2F 
I have the controller # and the Motor # and have Pictures of each.
I also have A users manual from Great land Electrics Co. Ltd. with some form of Circuit Diagram.
Wiring.
Communication Protocol.
That may be of Help to you ?
I am also looking to get the programing software and interface Cable
to increase the Speed to more than 25 MPH.
Hope we can eachother.
Stan,@GARDENABEAR2


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## nosmoke (May 18, 2016)

Hi There,

I have been following your post with great interest. Anyone has a software that could talk to this controller GLCI6008A2 :
http://glelec.com/cpzx/jlybxl/20151023/25.html

I need to adjust some parameters inside.

Regards

Hugo



Ravishankar said:


> Hi Peter,
> 
> That document I already got from GL. So it seems like GL Controller does not support adjusting parameters dynamically, a pity..! Now the BMS must be programmed without any communication with Controller..


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## nosmoke (May 18, 2016)

There were a few people on this thread that had the software for greatland controllers...have they all left the forum ?


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## rooster (Dec 6, 2015)

I have a Kandi Coco with Greatland GL1606A2 controller and 8hp 3ph motor. Need to replace controller. No Response from Greatland. Anyone had success in getting reply from this manufacturer. I suspect that the lack of resistor at main contactor may have precipitated this problem. 

Does anyone know of a replacement controller that would work. Thanks


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## rooster (Dec 6, 2015)

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the Greatland Electrics Controller GL1606 A2. I think my 12 volt supply is down, but I cannot identify which pair it should be. It is a 72VDc to 73VAC 3PH converter to an 8 hp, 6kw motor with encoder. Thanks


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## dbdavis45 (Oct 22, 2016)

I am new to the site. 
I have an 1010 Kandi Coco with an Greatlands Controller. This system is a 72v with new batteries (Deka 12v 180ah). I just purchased the car and it has 130 miles on the odometer.
I am experiencing a total shutdown after only driving apprx. 1/4 mile. I get an error code 06 (low voltage). The system will reset after about 10-15 minutes. I have rechecked all the batteries and they appear to be good.
Anyone know anything I can do to fix this problem. 
Thanks


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## alysah58 (Feb 8, 2017)

Did you find a new controller? My car is doing the same and I can't find a new controller any where?


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## rooster (Dec 6, 2015)

It seems that Greatlands was not too proud of their product. There is no information available and there is no response to a myriad of attempts to contact them. Best try to locate a dead Coco and buy parts.


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## alysah58 (Feb 8, 2017)

rooster said:


> It seems that Greatlands was not too proud of their product. There is no information available and there is no response to a myriad of attempts to contact them. Best try to locate a dead Coco and buy parts.


I have also sent a ton of messages to different sites, but can't get any response, hoping someone here has part from one that they will sell. Curtis has a controller I thought might work, but is $1500.

Thank you!


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

dbholder43 said:


> if anyone needs a copy of the software, I have it. It only works in windows 95 or 98 mode in windows 7. very crude software that rarely works correctly, I got to synchronize just once... I have the wv120v car, and amongst other things that have happened, the axle broke, reverse has never worked for me. I have been trying to find a schematic of this car and known exists so far. (all the wires on the controller hardness are white) ive use a bell ring tracer to find some, but not all.



Hi, i'm a new greatland 15kw 144v system user. i've managed to get the motor running. Do you have the software ?


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

Ravishankar said:


> One more user of Greatland Electric motors: thats good. The settings software you have to ask explicitly. I got that through Skype file transfer. There is no printed manual. Just the motor and controller documentation as a pdf file. But it has sufficient information. Not as professional as other EV motor vendors, but what the heck, they sell it at the most affordable price. One that is closer to the price that I have read in textbooks ..


could you also send me the info please ?


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

i need the software too


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

GARDENABEAR2 said:


> Hi Chris and Ravishankar.
> I have a Wildfire WF 120-2F
> I have the controller # and the Motor # and have Pictures of each.
> I also have A users manual from Great land Electrics Co. Ltd. with some form of Circuit Diagram.
> ...


could you send me that info ?


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## Coulomb (Apr 22, 2009)

I have no idea if this PDF will be of any use. I got this as part of an EV kit, kept the batteries, and sold nearly everything else. I can't recall where I got this from.

I believe you can download some associated software from this site, near the end:

http://www.ev-power.com.au/-TECHNICAL-ARTICLES-.html


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

Coulomb said:


> I have no idea if this PDF will be of any use. I got this as part of an EV kit, kept the batteries, and sold nearly everything else. I can't recall where I got this from.
> 
> I believe you can download some associated software from this site, near the end:
> 
> http://www.ev-power.com.au/-TECHNICAL-ARTICLES-.html



Thank you so much !!!


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

Coulomb said:


> I have no idea if this PDF will be of any use. I got this as part of an EV kit, kept the batteries, and sold nearly everything else. I can't recall where I got this from.
> 
> I believe you can download some associated software from this site, near the end:
> 
> http://www.ev-power.com.au/-TECHNICAL-ARTICLES-.html


I have wired my serial cables.
I have done everything but i can't enter the System Parameters utility mode.

I have wired (J2-19 pin) Reprogram to 12v but nothing.. i think there is an specific sequence.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Running windows XP? The pdf indicates you have a serial port communications system and anything past XP doesn't do serial


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

Alright here is my sum of things i've done so far:

To Start the controller in programming mode you need to be in reverse and pressing the braking (i had to press the accel pedal because i was in braking mode).
please reply if you need more explanation.

Then i tried in both win 7 and win XP and same results. I have tried two different USB to ttl (rs232) . they were prolific chip and FTDI chip none of them make a good connection (they sort of connect to the com port but they spit only unreadable characters $%&/ fg&d$).

By the drivers in this page
http://www.ev-power.com.au/-TECHNICAL-ARTICLES-.html
this are the drivers.
http://www.wch.cn/download/CH341SER_ZIP.html
i saw they were ch340 thing.

so i need to get this ch340 cable (i've read and they say is for programming chinese microcontrollers)


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

i bought the cable ch340 installed drivers and still no good communication to 15 kw system.

The greatland program gives me (Error 9: subscription out of range.)


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## Coulomb (Apr 22, 2009)

bloody said:


> I have tried two different USB to ttl (rs232) . they were prolific chip and FTDI chip none of them make a good connection (they sort of connect to the com port but they spit only unreadable characters $%&/ fg&d$).


I see you are connecting at 9600 bps. Much Chinese equipment seems to use 2400 bps. Are you sure you have the right bit rate?

Did you try a few others? (e.g. 2400/19200/4800/115k)


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## bloody (Apr 25, 2017)

Coulomb said:


> I see you are connecting at 9600 bps. Much Chinese equipment seems to use 2400 bps. Are you sure you have the right bit rate?
> 
> Did you try a few others? (e.g. 2400/19200/4800/115k)


yes i've tried them all. is it programmed through tx/rx serial or CAN BUS ?

right now i'm trying through serial.


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## TomD (Jul 22, 2021)

GARDENABEAR2 said:


> Hi Chris and Ravishankar.
> I have a Wildfire WF 120-2F
> I have the controller # and the Motor # and have Pictures of each.
> I also have A users manual from Great land Electrics Co. Ltd. with some form of Circuit Diagram.
> ...


I have a Greatland AC motor GLMI10A0 and a (broken) motor controller GLCI4008A0. Any Greatland manual or information would be greatly appreciated; even if it isn't for my model it might give hints. Also, my controller has a fried component on what looks like a comm/interface board in the controller; the fried component was soldered between PCB pads marked COM+ and COM- next to a 20-pin connector. Maybe a diode? Maybe a Capacitor?

Thanks, TomD (new to the forum)


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## TomD (Jul 22, 2021)

dbholder43 said:


> if anyone needs a copy of the software, I have it. It only works in windows 95 or 98 mode in windows 7. very crude software that rarely works correctly, I got to synchronize just once... I have the wv120v car, and amongst other things that have happened, the axle broke, reverse has never worked for me. I have been trying to find a schematic of this car and known exists so far. (all the wires on the controller hardness are white) ive use a bell ring tracer to find some, but not all.


I would greatly appreciate a copy of the software if you can provide it! Thank you, tomdickmeyer at gmail.com


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## Brett12345 (8 mo ago)

dbholder43 said:


> if anyone needs a copy of the software, I have it. It only works in windows 95 or 98 mode in windows 7. very crude software that rarely works correctly, I got to synchronize just once... I have the wv120v car, and amongst other things that have happened, the axle broke, reverse has never worked for me. I have been trying to find a schematic of this car and known exists so far. (all the wires on the controller hardness are white) ive use a bell ring tracer to find some, but not all.


I would appreciate it if you could send me the software. Bcordonnier at gmail.com


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