# Curtis 1238r programming



## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

where'd you get the controller?

there's a 4-pin to 8-pin adapter you're missing that plugs into where the spyglass display plugs into. If your harness doesn't have this 8-pin port, you'll have to build one, or I can sell you one for $10 plus shipping. that will go from the 4 to the 8 pin.


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## Mattcarr (Oct 3, 2011)

The connector on the controller has got 30 or so pins on it. I can't see any other connection point on the controller.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Mattcarr said:


> The connector on the controller has got 30 or so pins on it. I can't see any other connection point on the controller.


Yes, that what he is saying. The mating connector/harness should have a smaller connector to plug into the spyglass (840 display). You disconnect the spyglass and plug in the programmer with an adaptor. Alternately, use pins #25, 28, 29 & 7. But you will need the harness to light up the controller for the programmer to function. See: http://www.electricautosports.com/files/1234_36_38 Manual Rev C2.pdf Figure #3, lower right corner.


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## Mattcarr (Oct 3, 2011)

okay - so the name of the 35 pin socket is "spyglass". An adaptor for the programmer would make life alot more easy than trying to wire in myself.

You say I would need the harness to light up the controller - would it not be live if it is connected to the battery pack?

Sorry for the dumb questions.

Cheers

Matt


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Mattcarr said:


> okay - so the name of the 35 pin socket is "spyglass". An adaptor for the programmer would make life alot more easy than trying to wire in myself.
> 
> You say I would need the harness to light up the controller - would it not be live if it is connected to the battery pack?
> 
> ...


No, the spyglass is what they call the 840 display and is wired into the harness which connects to J1 (multipin socket in the 1238).

Do not just wire power to the large battery terminals without having the control wiring harness properly connected which will light up the controller without the battery connected to the large power terminals. It is the means to precharge and to properly engage the main contactor. Read the manual


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## Mattcarr (Oct 3, 2011)

My car was already converted when I got it.

Here are some pictures of the controller - at the bottom of the page.

http://www.batteryvehiclesociety.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3115&start=20

I have read the manual - but I am not an electronics expert. I was hoping to be able to get a simple adaptor that the molex connecter plugs in to and then this adaptor plugs in to the J1 multi pin connector on the controller.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Why do you want to re-program the controller? Is it just because you can? If you get in there and start changing things, you could very likely screw something up if you don't know what you're doing. If you're not an electronics guy, I'd stear clear of messing with any settings. If you want to proceed, *DO A BACKUP OF THE PARAMETERS FIRST*, so you can have something to go to if you screw something up.

About the connector..... The programmer doesn't plug into the 30pin connector, please read what we're saying. It plugs into the wiring harness which has the 30 pin connector on it. At one end it should have an 8pin connector that plugs into a Curtis 840 display (attached a picture of it).

Take that out of the dash, look at the back. It's a 8-pin connector. You need to find an 8pin matching molex to plug into the cable, and a 4-pin connector to plug into the programmer.

Leave everything plugged into the controller, it needs to be powered when you use the programmer.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Mattcarr said:


> My car was already converted when I got it.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the controller - at the bottom of the page.
> 
> ...


Why do you want to mess about with the programmer? Why not have the dealer alter or explain this stuff to you? Do you have the 840 spyglass meter on your dashboard? 

The J1 is an AMP connector. The spyglass (840 meter/display) has a Molex 8p. The programmer has a Molex 4p. You need an adaptor so you unplug the Molex 8p from the spyglass and plug the Molex 8p to 4p adaptor into the 8p plug and into the 4p cable on the programmer. The wiring harness needs to remain plugged into J1 for the programmer to function. Travis offered to sell you the 4p to 8p adaptor. I have made one up for myself. But you need to have access to those wires on the harness going to the spyglass. If your installation does not have the spyglass, it should have the connector for the programmer elsewhere off the wiring harness. How else would the installer have done it? Check with the place from where you got the vehicle.

I don't know how I can be any clearer.

major


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## Mattcarr (Oct 3, 2011)

I got you - thanks for the explanation. I will trace the wires out to see if I can find the wires from the display I have got in the car and see where it plugs in to the wiring harness that goes to the controller.

I would like to check the setting of the controller as the drive motor is rated for 30kw. I have got an 82.5 volt, 160ah pack. The battery specs say I should be able to do a 2C ( 320 amps ) sustained discharge on the batteries. I only ever see up to the 250 amp mark on the display, which is around the 20kw mark, so the car is running lower than it could be.

If the power is set at 250 amps then I would like to up the power slightly, but not all the way to 320 amps.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Mattcarr said:


> I got you - thanks for the explanation. I will trace the wires out to see if I can find the wires from the display I have got in the car and see where it plugs in to the wiring harness that goes to the controller.


The Molex 8p plug is on the back of the 840 display. You unplug it from the display.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

It plugs right into the back of the display, take it out of the dash, it goes right into the 840. You don't have to trace any wiring.

Just because you can do 320A battery side doesn't mean it'l do it. You have to load the motor.

Put the brakes on full and floor it for a second or two, see what the current says on your clamp-on ammeter.... if you don't have one, go get one. Get someone to help you with this.

The current could potentially be limited, but only change that, don't change other parameters if you don't know what to do.


You should really have someone help with this.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Mattcarr said:


> I would like to check the setting of the controller as the drive motor is rated for 30kw. I have got an 82.5 volt, 160ah pack. The battery specs say I should be able to do a 2C ( 320 amps ) sustained discharge on the batteries. I only ever see up to the 250 amp mark on the display, which is around the 20kw mark, so the car is running lower than it could be.
> 
> If the power is set at 250 amps then I would like to up the power slightly, but not all the way to 320 amps.


I suggest you go back to the dealer and not mess about with that stuff. But it is your property. Should something fail once you have altered it, I would think the dealer would not honor warranty.


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## Mattcarr (Oct 3, 2011)

That is a very good point that I had not yet considered. The display I have on my dashboard - if this is getting the feed from the controller - it that showing the battery amps or the motor amps? If the motor amps then my battery may well be dishing out higher amps.

The car no longer has warranty on it, and I would be very careful not to go messing with any paramters that I was not sure about.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

get a clamp-on meter. You should have one if you have an EV anyway.

Measure with that.


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## Mattcarr (Oct 3, 2011)

I went to take the 820 display out so I could check the connector on the back but it has been glued in to it's mount so I dont want to crack it open. There were 3 wires coming out the back and I traced these back to a rather nice molex connector. This connector goes back to the controller. If I unplug this connection the 820 display goes blank so I know I have got the right one. Also my curtis programming cable plugs in to this nicely. This connector is mounted on the side of the battery box right above the controller. 
Just got to go and get my old laptop back as it is the only one I have with a serial port on it !!!!!

I will post back with some pictures when I am connected up.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

just check the pinout before you connect anything.... please don't go connecting things just because they "fit".


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## henry murray (Jul 25, 2014)

I am also in need of an adapter to go from the 4 pin Molex plug on my Curtis 1313 programmer to the 8 pin Curtis 840 display plug.
The 8 pin Molex plug has 4 pins exiting into 3 wires. The pins on the 4 pin Molex have a wire on each pin.
Can you give me a pin to pin connection for the adapter.
The 840 display plug has wires on pins 1 5 6 and 8. I believe it only uses pins 
5 6 and 8.
Any help would be appreciated
Henry Murray


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/ima...programming_pinout13444470665022a25a7ce65.jpg

You need TX/RX, GND and +12V. If the display is just dumb (no button) it only needs TX because it never sends anything. The programmer needs both TX/RX.


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## henry murray (Jul 25, 2014)

Looks like I need to run another wire for RX to run the programmer. 
My harness came with only 3 wires. +12v TX and I/O ground. Just enough to run the 840 display but not the 1313 programmer.
Henry Murray


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