# Electromet Build



## procupine14 (Mar 17, 2010)

I have to say those electromets are so cool! I look forward to reading more about this project. Being around a lot of project cars and restorations in my family this little gem that you have looks in really good condition sheet metal wise. 

Keep it up!


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## DONEAL (Sep 10, 2008)

Electromet
Welcome to the forum. I don’t know a electromet is, but it looks cool. Could you tell me more about it?
Take a lot of pictures and keep posting your progress on your build thread. Don’t worry about asking questions, 
I have found that there is several knowledgeable members on this forum that will help.


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

The car is actually a 1957 Nash Metropolitan. It was a collaboration between Nash Motors of the US and the Austin Motor Company of GB between 1954 and 1962. It's a 2 seat coupe that was primarily targeted at women. Several found commercial use and some police departments used them for parking enforcement. The original 1500cc engine is nearly identical in specification to the MGA, and the front and rear suspensions are derivations of the Austin Healy Sprite and Morris Minor. Fortunately, Moss Motors stocks and/or reproduces virtually everything needed to build a Sprite from scratch.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

electromet said:


> My conversion will consist of a 120v FLA pack (space considerations limit me to 12v batteries), with an 8-9” series wound motor and Curtiss controller.


sounds perfect AND fun. I'd say 120v, 8", w/ inexpensive Curtis 1221 or similar controller would fit the bill very well. 

I would encourage consideration of LiFePO4 batteries over FLA if you can possibly swing the initial cost. With 12v FLA you may not reach your range goal, and with 8v FLA you'd probably come up short on space and suspension. 120v worth of 100ah Li would be JJJUUUUUST right.


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

Dan,

Thanks for the input. Lithium ion is more than a little over my head technologically speaking. I'm assuming that I'd need a string of 38 cells to achieve my 120v; would I need to parallel two or more strings to achieve the necessary amperage? Mr. Ohm was never my friend!


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

electromet said:


> Dan,
> 
> Thanks for the input. Lithium ion is more than a little over my head technologically speaking. I'm assuming that I'd need a string of 38 cells to achieve my 120v; would I need to parallel two or more strings to achieve the necessary amperage? Mr. Ohm was never my friend!



yes, 38 cells is a 120v nominal system (3.2v per cell), and just one string of 38 * 100ah cells would be comparable capacity to *really good* 120v worth (15) of 8v deep cycle FLA, with far less weight, and a little less space, resulting in more range and betterperformance with same v nominal, and about 3x the life cycles for about 2x the cost.


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

In order to dangle a carrot in front of my face so as to stay motivated, I often declare a victory, no matter how small the battle. Today, I have set the front wheels on the ground for the first time in nearly six years.











The front suspension rebuild had stalled during the monsoons of 2004, as I have no garage. The more I looked at the job, the more I found that was wrong. I just lost interest as the job looked insurmountable. There it sat until I got the EV bug.

Ultimately, nearly everything was replaced. I swapped the nasty(!) Met front drums for MG Midget discs. The bushings were all replaced with polyurethane. The entire steering assembly was trashed. The original had the tie rod running across the firewall behind the engine. This occupied the area that I wanted for increased set back of my transmission. My new plan calls for a GEO Metro steering rack mounted over the top of the electric motor. As small as the GEO rack is, I still had to narrow the rack itself over 2”, and the tie rods will have be narrowed additionally when I can get an accurate measurement (the ICE is still in the way). Did I say the Met was narrow? The front track measures ~44 inches. All that remains now is a new set of shocks.










The rear end is out and completely disassembled. I have replaced the original 4.22:1 differential with a 3.9:1 unit from an MG Midget. The rear brakes are being swapped for MG units as well. While the rear end is out, I have cut out the trunk floor above the former fuel tank for a rack to hold 3 FLA batteries. I also have holes in the floor on either side of the driveshaft just forward of the rear axle for one FLA per side. The remaining 5 FLAs and the auxiliary battery will go under the hood. I just need to wait until after tax day before I can spend any money on axle bearings and brake parts.


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## vpoppv (Jul 27, 2009)

I sure am looking forward to seeing your project's progress!


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

Thanks, vpoppv. It's a slow process, but something I look forward to playing with every morning. Over the weekend I made a masonite template of my bellhousing, so a trip to the recycling yard is in order. I've been able to sell a couple of my spare parts as well, so a little money is coming in as well.

How's that Toyota conversion coming along? I really enjoyed your Metro build.


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## vpoppv (Jul 27, 2009)

electromet said:


> Thanks, vpoppv. It's a slow process, but something I look forward to playing with every morning. Over the weekend I made a masonite template of my bellhousing, so a trip to the recycling yard is in order. I've been able to sell a couple of my spare parts as well, so a little money is coming in as well.
> 
> How's that Toyota conversion coming along? I really enjoyed your Metro build.


It's wonderful to get to spend time on things you really enjoy. I went back to school full time and so my progress is practically non-existent. I have my coupler worked out I think though, which is a pretty big part I guess. I planned on being most of the way done over spring break, but I lazed around instead. I plan on getting materials for my battery rack this week though, so it should give me the motivation to get some work done. Frankly, I'd rather see YOUR car converted rather that my junker!!


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

vpoppv,

I know what you mean about finding time. I retired from 25 years of civil service 12 years ago, and promptly jumped right into self-employment. In January, I decided to close up my remodeling business. When I retired the first time, I couldn't figure out where I found 40 hours in my week to go to work. This time around, I'm a little more prepared for a leisurely lifestyle. So, Electromet is now my nearly full-time job. Unfortunately, the salary package isn't that great.

As far as "Junk" is concerned, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The pictures I've posted thusfar are after I cleaned all the weeds, etc. from around the car. I'm sure my neighbors have considered the Met to be nothing more than a derelict. In my mind, I thank them often for their patience. The true beauty in these projects of ours is the personal committment and statement that we're making.

Keep your chin up and things will start to fall together. You know you can do it. You've already got one success under your belt.


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

Hi all,

I've finally made some "EV" progress on the Electromet. I've been scrounging scrap angle iron at the recycle yards and came up with enough 1 1/2"X1/8" material to start my main rear rack, which mounts into a hole in the "trunk" floor. The rack fits 3 floodies. I cut some 18 gauge sheet steel for the box floor. I need to find some some louvered sheetmetal for the box ends. I'll probably close up the rest of the box with more of the 18 gauge, and mount a fan at the rear. I need to punch some drain holes in the bottom. I've also got to do some sheetmetal fabricating to close the box into the unibody. Right now the box weighs in at 20 lbs. I'm guessing another 3 lbs. of metal should finish the job. The box only protrudes about 3" below the rear valance, so ground clearance won't be an issue.


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

Remember when someone told you to look for a pristine car with a bad engine? Well, I guess I'm the horrible example they had in mind when they made that statement. It's been nearly three years since I started my conversion, and about 6 months past my original goal to finish my beast. All that I've really accomplished that is EV-specific is the fabrication and mocking up of my rear battery boxes.

The remainder of my "progress" has been related to making the car roadworthy once I get it off the jackstands again. Don't get me wrong--I'm enjoying the ride. Money and time that I've been spending on aerodynamic modifications, suspension and brake upgrades, transmission modification and mounting, and on and on.... could have been spent on a motor and/or a controller. I'm becoming more patient, knowing that it's what needs to be done, and I done want to rush things and make a mistake. But I'm getting frustrated that I'm not on the road yet, and won't be for the foreseeable future.

So the bottom line is, unless you're a glutton for punishment and/or have the shop, tools, money, and experience, forego that cute little "project" your buddy is trying to unload. Look for a pristine car with a bad engine for your first conversion.


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## RE Farmer (Aug 8, 2009)

electromet said:


> Remember when someone told you to look for a pristine car with a bad engine? Well, I guess I'm the horrible example they had in mind when they made that statement. It's been nearly three years since I started my conversion, ...
> 
> So the bottom line is, unless you're a glutton for punishment and/or have the shop, tools, money, and experience, forego that cute little "project" your buddy is trying to unload. Look for a pristine car with a bad engine for your first conversion.


I hear you. Even a "good" car like mine after ~20y of inside storage has rotted/dried out rubber (bushings, seals, window gaskets, etc.) and rodent chewed and corroded electrics which must be replaced or rebuilt. Then getting laid-off really slowed the finances for new EV components (but I now have lots of time for all those other things ).

The good part is EV components and battery technology has improved so you'll be getting better performance and/or reduced cost for your conversion.


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

I thought I'd check in again after a few years of absence. I found a 2012 Leaf SL for much less than I imagined was possible, so I've been motoring electrically for a while now and loving it. The Metropolitan project is still ongoing, but there will be revisions. Since I've got my Leaf for a daily driver, my mileage requirements are much less important. I'm pretty sure that the pack is now going to be lithium, and the motor will still be DC, but perhaps smaller. About 2/3 of the body work is done, so I am gaining some ground.


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

I went out on a limb and bought a GE 9" series motor that apparently came out of a "Jet Industries" conversion from the early '80s. It's got four sets of two brushes and is about 16" long. The plate says it's 23hp at 99 volts and 201 amps. I'm planning on running at 120 volts. Do you think this will necessitate advancing the brushes? I bench test it at 12 volts and it seems to run smoothly. It will need to have the commutator turned and some brushes installed. Needless to say I'm a little stoked.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
Things have moved on a pace since you started

120v was a bit lowish 8 years ago - today I would say it's too low

I suggest a Chevy Volt battery - mine cost $1800 and see which controller you can get to set your voltage 
The Paul & Sabrina OpenRevolt 150v - 500 amps would be good 

My Volt battery was 7 off 2 Kwhr 48v modules and 2 off 1 Kwhr 24v modules

You could use the six of the 2 Kwhr 48v Chevy modules as two strings giving you 12 Kwhrs and 

That motor would be ace with that configuration

I would suggest that you do advance it as you are going to be running at higher rpms than the motor would in the forklift


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

I spent the weekend with an angle grinder and a 3/4 aluminum plate carving my transmission adapter plate. Fortunately, Austin uses a 1/4" removable steel plate between the engine block and transmission. It makes a perfect template. The plate on top is the apparently home-made drive-end bearing carrier. I need to trim off a few pounds of excess aluminum from it. It is pinned to the adapter plate concentric with the location of the transmission input shaft. I need to cut a 3" diameter hole in the adapter plate then it's on to the machinist for the coupler.


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## electromet (Oct 20, 2009)

I got the motor and transmission stuff painted and bolted together (minus the armature, I'm not a glutton for punishment). Now I'm ready to take some measurements for locating the front motor mounts and the transmission crossmember. It appears that the snout of the motor will fall behind the centerline of the front wheels and the shifter will be in a comfortable position. With most of the batteries over the rear axle, weight distributuion should be better than stock.


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