# 1978 Spitfire Conversion



## Deekman (Jun 29, 2008)

Deekman said:


> ...I have a bead on a 36 volt motor at the moment; it's a Prestolite unit that looks identical to the older Warp 8 series... it's here: Item 200235776752 on eBay....


Sorry, that's the wrong auction. Let's try this one: 180259988331

It's not the one I was thinking of, and doesn't look much like the Warp motors... In any case, I think it's plenty big for a teeny car like mine!

-Deek


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## Bottomfeeder (Jun 13, 2008)

Greetings, Deek.

There are a few of us here that are converting Spitfires at the moment. It's a rather popular conversion it seems. They're cheap, plentiful, easy to find parts for, and they're rather sporty. I found a '65 Spitfire 4 that was in the high desert in California. It had been sitting for 15 years, but there's only a small amount of surface rust on the frame and body (except for those rotten floorboards). I'm stuck in the rebuilding phase, and most of my EV parts haven't arrived yet. But, once I start wiring things up, I'll be posting more questions here I'm sure. Here's my evalbum page: http://www.evalbum.com/1833

If you have the mechanical skills to handle the fabrication, you're most of the way there. The electrics aren't that difficult, at least for me. The important thing is to be respectful of the high voltages and make sure that a dropped tool won't short something. I read http://www.evconvert.com (both conversions) and a local guy I met set up a great site to read as well. He rebuilt and converted a Fiat Spider. It's mostly done by now. http://www.electric-lemon.com. As for books I read Bob Brant's "Build Your Own Electric Vehicle". And it was a great help. Keep us updated with your plans.


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## gerd1022 (Jun 9, 2008)

could be wrong bottomfeeder, but i think your spit is a MkIII...

I am also converting a spit, also a 78!

Like bottomfeeder, im bogged down in the restoration... my body and frame are currently separated, and im going to repaint the frame and rebuild the brakes, suspension and drivetrain...

I just started ripping it apart and couldnt stop! hopefully it goes back together soon... have fun with the car!


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## Bottomfeeder (Jun 13, 2008)

I get that a lot. The VIN corresponds with a Spit4, and it was sold in '64 (last year of the Spit4s) but as a 1965. I still have the original bill of sale, which is a perk because I'll be able to have it re-registered with the original black California plates which seems to increase the value of the vehicle quite a bit. I'm not a purist, but I'm not going to turn down a free status symbol.


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## gerd1022 (Jun 9, 2008)

wow that is pretty cool... i thought you meant that you thought it was a MkIV... hence the confusion.


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## Bottomfeeder (Jun 13, 2008)

This question is for Deek and any other Spitfire converters. Are you planning on keeping the clutch or going clutchless. After looking at the geometry of it all, I decided to go clutchless. I'm going to use the clutchplate splines to mate with the transmission shaft, and lathe down a pulley to mate to the motor shaft. I'll be able to just bolt these together and create a simple coupling. If I tried to keep the clutch, I would have to rebuild the clutch master and slave cylinders, and the costs start to add up. What are you guys planning on doing? Any advice or thoughts?

What about batteries? I am planning on using 10 ~100Ah flooded or sealed lead acid batteries. The weight will be around 700 lbs. I'll put 4 up front and 6 in the back. I'll put as many as I can in the gastank area to keep the weight over the axle. But, I'll still be adding ~400 lbs to the rear of the vehicle. I'll probably have to beefen up the rear suspension a bit to handle the added weight. The front will probably be about the same weight after removing the engine, and supporting parts. Any thoughts on solutions for that?

I'm only able to work on the car once or twice a week, as it is sitting at a workshop 30 minutes away. I have the help of a nice mechanic, who doesn't know anything about electric cars, but knows plenty about old cars. He's letting me use his space and tools for the potential career changing experience this conversion is providing.


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## Bottomfeeder (Jun 13, 2008)

Sorry, gerd, it's a common mistake. As you can see from my evalbum page: http://www.evalbum.com/1833, it's got the old chrome bumpers that are truly just for show. There's no way they will protect the body at all. But, they sure look nice! I also like the round back look. I can't wait to drive this car!


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## gerd1022 (Jun 9, 2008)

yeah im doing the same with the clutch... the way i see it, the less fluid in the car, the better... (less to leak out!)

i found a useful hint for fixing up the rear suspension on these cars...
http://www.triumphspitfire.nl/rearspringpads.html

probably wont help that much, but should go a little towards making the rear end sag less...


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## gerd1022 (Jun 9, 2008)

even the bumpers on the newer models are too low to do anything safety-wise... they might as well have made them look nice.


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## gerd1022 (Jun 9, 2008)

The walmart 27 series are 115AH deep cycle batteries and they weigh about 50 pounds or so... im doing a 144V (maybe 156 if i get crazy) so 12 *50= 600 pounds...

I dont trust the 115Ah rating for a second, but all i need is about 50 Ah for my commute so i should be ok


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## Deekman (Jun 29, 2008)

Bottomfeeder said:


> ...Are you planning on keeping the clutch or going clutchless...


I haven't seen any good arguements for keeping the clutch. Runaway from a failed controller seems to be pretty rare and I don't know about you, but I can get my gearbox in neutral with a light bump on the stick... no clutch required! I had toyed with the idea of putting a battery cutoff switch where the clutch MS goes so if something does go awry, I could stomp the clutch and kill it all.



Bottomfeeder said:


> ...I'm going to use the clutchplate splines to mate with the transmission shaft, and lathe down a pulley to mate to the motor shaft...


I think I understand... you're using a clutch-plate center-section to mate with the trans and your motor has a keyed shaft, I assume? (So the pully would have a keyway shaft opening?) That sounds fine to me, except your motor will need a pretty beefy output shaft bearing because the Spit gearbox has next to nothing for shaft support.



Bottomfeeder said:


> ...What about batteries?...


That question keeps me up at night! It's really the only part of the project I haven't been able to go "cheap" on. Used batteries are a no-no on principle, and I'm just not prepared to drop over a grand on a single (okay, ten) component for the install... I'll just have to get over it, I guess, but it would just be peachy if someone would take my concerns away and give me a solution... The charger is a big expense too, but of course that depends on the batteries! (Chicken, Egg, anyone?)



Bottomfeeder said:


> ...I have the help of a nice mechanic, who doesn't know anything about electric cars, but knows plenty about old cars. He's letting me use his space and tools for the potential career changing experience this conversion is providing.


That's awefully nice of him! Buy him plenty of his choice!

-Deek


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## Deekman (Jun 29, 2008)

gerd1022 said:


> The walmart 27 series are 115AH deep cycle batteries and they weigh about 50 pounds or so... im doing a 144V (maybe 156 if i get crazy) so 12 *50= 600 pounds...
> 
> I dont trust the 115Ah rating for a second, but all i need is about 50 Ah for my commute so i should be ok


Hmmmm... 9.9 galons of 89 octane = 61lbs. Add 50 for the tank itself and you're up to 110 pounds.

Full tank = 375 miles.
Full batteries = 35 miles.

Gasoline really is a dense fuel source! Math like that makes me want to fuel inject the ICE, but no. I must be strong.

-Deek


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## Bottomfeeder (Jun 13, 2008)

You're right, gasoline is a dense way to store energy. It beats the pants off of lead, or any other battery for that matter.

But, I try to do my part for the earth. I just switched over my power so it'll all come from Wind or Solar. It only cost me another $4 a month for that privilege. So, when I finally get my car running as my daily driver, I'll be able to out smug the hybrid drivers.  I'm also hoping that it remains a sporty car. I'd love to not only silently cruise around town, but also show off with a punch of acceleration every now and then. I think it's important for people to see that it's a fun, practical, AND green way to go. Besides, restoring an old car is much better for the earth than buying a new one. And it's easier on my wallet, too!


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## Deekman (Jun 29, 2008)

Bottomfeeder said:


> ...I'll be able to out smug the hybrid drivers...


Don't get me started on Prius drivers... The few I know are smug beyond belief and turn their nose up at my Explorer.

I think of it this way: how much total energy is used from inception of a vehicle to it's destruction? Considering the battery materials are mined in Canada, shipped to Japan, the car is then built and shipped back, I think enough diesel fuel has been burned on the ocean journeys to more than counteract any benefit.

Being green is important, but for me it's just being pissed at our energy policy and not wanting to put anymore ski resorts in the middle of the desert!

-Deek


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## Bottomfeeder (Jun 13, 2008)

No doubt about it, Deek. Hybrids typically have such an energy consuming manufacturing process that they have to drive for something like 150,000 miles before they break even against a gas guzzling SUV. Mile by mile, they are better, but factory to junkyard they're horrible. The best thing to do is to buy used. You don't have to buy that huge manufacturing cost (unseen by the consumer!) and you save tons of money. I've bought my last 8 vehicles that way, and I love it. Of course, I'm usually found under a hood every weekend, but that's how I afford having all of my toys.


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