# Voltage Connection Question



## elevatorguy (Jul 26, 2007)

I think that you need to wire the fields to make it work. I'm not sure what you have with the information given, is it a surplus military part? You may have to go with a sepex type controller, I found this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x9rUYGG9oE


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

If you can wait until I get home from work I can tell you exactly how to properly connect for testing. 

Do not use D terminal


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## NCMau (Jan 27, 2009)

onegreenev said:


> If you can wait until I get home from work I can tell you exactly how to properly connect for testing.
> 
> Do not use D terminal


Thanks. I'll wait for reply


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

E terminal is your battery negative.
B terminal is your battery positive.
A terminal is your field positive. 

A terminal is your small + terminal. 
Connect a decent sized wire to terminal A and cross it and connect it to the B terminal. 

Take our 12 volt battery and connect the positive to terminal B and the negative battery to terminal E. 

Be sure you lock down the motor. It will have quite a bit of torque. So take your negative side from terminal E and touch your negative side of your battery. It should jump to life. It will whine. These motors whine when running. They are high speed little suckers and sound like a jet wanting to take off. Unlike Series motors these can run faster than 5500 rpm without any trouble. They are designed to be ran at high rpms. 

I have had up to 72 volts on my motors. 

With the setup I gave you these will pump out some decent power if you connect up 24 volts or 36 volts and just use contactor type switching. It is all or nothing but you can also set it up to run with a series controller. If your cable from A to B is decent and you have good cooling for your motor you should be good as gold. 

Here is a video you may have missed of me running my setup with a series controller.

You will see the size wire I use from A terminal to B terminal. Use with a controller is quite possible but with your standard controller you loose an regenerative functions. Not a bad thing really.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Forgot to mention again. DO NOT use D terminal. It has nothing to do with the field or armature or for the running of the motor. It was used in the aircraft for balancing voltage purposes when generating.


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## NCMau (Jan 27, 2009)

onegreenev said:


> Forgot to mention again. DO NOT use D terminal. It has nothing to do with the field or armature or for the running of the motor. It was used in the aircraft for balancing voltage purposes when generating.


Thanks for info and the informative video. I made the connection with a good 12V battery as described unfortunately did not move. I have no way to check if it's drawing any current. I'll try it with 24V before it's declared incompetent. Any other suggestions?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Get me some real good pictures of your motor, brushes, connections to the motor. Does the motor spin by hand? I'll do a video of the setup and show you how it should be working.

One more question, is your battery charged?


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## NCMau (Jan 27, 2009)

onegreenev said:


> Get me some real good pictures of your motor, brushes, connections to the motor. Does the motor spin by hand? I'll do a video of the setup and show you how it should be working.
> 
> One more question, is your battery charged?


The motor spins freely and the 12V battery was good and fully charged. The connection is pretty straight forward. I made sure good solid clean contacts were made with lugs and nuts, not with spring clamps. I will open it and check the brushes, probably tomorrow. I'll send some pics.


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## NCMau (Jan 27, 2009)

NCMau said:


> The motor spins freely and the 12V battery was good and fully charged. The connection is pretty straight forward. I made sure good solid clean contacts were made with lugs and nuts, not with spring clamps. I will open it and check the brushes, probably tomorrow. I'll send some pics.


I looked inside and the brushes and commutator look real good. While redoing the connections and I spotted one cable terminal with some corrosion that I didn't see before (my bad). With 12V applied now runs great. The RPM according to my tack is about 1020, which is probably okay with this voltage.
Would this motor be suitable for a small electrical vehicle? Out curiosity, what voltage/amperage is yours? It looks like your VW is an ideal cool setup.
Again thanks for taking the time for showing me the way. 
Maury


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

They would be ok for a small buggy or bug. Not screaming fast but would work. You will need to be sure you have lots of air flow because they do get quite warm. Originally they were used with contactor speed controls and you used the clutch to feather your launch. With contactor speed control you have no current control and you can pull quite a bit of amps if needed. In my Ghia I only got 62 mph with my original weenie controller we were testing. With goof cooling for both the motor and controller a Bug should do fine in town. Problem is contactors fail mostly in the on position. You need a clutch for extra safety. I have some info for these Kaylor setups.


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