# Leaf pick up truck



## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

I been lurking here observing and trying absorb some information and knowledge.

My electric car experiences are limited to an e bike (just posted it) and removing and recharging the main battery in my 2009 Ford Escape hybrid after leaving it un touched in Kauai for 7 months.

I am noticing 62kWh Leaf totals most with rear end damage. 
Instead of taking an old chassis and transplanting bits I want to repurpose the whole Leaf with all the modern safety and conveniences and create my own small single cab truck with a 6' aluminum bed with fold down sides and some reinforcements as required for a 1000lb capacity and be able to tow.

Any input or discussion would be appreciated because this will happen.
Thanks in advance, Gary


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

World's First Nissan Leaf Electric Pickup Truck, For Shop Use Only (Video)


Nissan adds a pickup bed to the Leaf electric car for an unusual project.




www.greencarreports.com


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## Jordan325ic (Jun 8, 2021)

I've dreamed of doing the same... hard to imagine how it would look. Perhaps a bit strange with a long bed on a short wheelbase. Do it!


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Goal is make it a little better looking than that. Combine all 3 photos.
A 2 door Leaf and a 6' aluminum bed with fold down sides.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

After spending some time looking at car auctions today the Chevy Bolt is also a strong contender.
The Bolt wheelbase is 4" shorter (106.3 vs 102.4") overall length is 13" shorter (174.4 vs 164") the width is similar both around 70" but the car has almost no overhangs unlike the Leaf. The Bolt may drive better than the Leaf with more power and range than even the 62kWh version. A 6' bed is +-80" long and 62 to 72" wide.
The whole electric pickup thing seems workable and the Bolt platform looks better?


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

An important detail I live In Santa Monica CA.
Best to fully repair the salvage electric vehicle first get it DMV inspected fully registered and insured before it morphs into a compact truck. 
I am going to keep an open mind be it Bolt, Kona or Leaf value is the name of the game they all have 200+hp and no lookers in the crowd so it will be a challenge just backwards from what most are doing with conversions.


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## Curtis_RVA (Jun 3, 2021)

I love this idea, Gary. I'm having a hard time combining image #2 with 1 & 3, but even 1 & 3 would drop my jaw if I saw it.

I don't know anything about the viability of lopping off the back of these cars, but the Kona's interior is awesome.


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## Electric Land Cruiser (Dec 30, 2020)

I think it's a great idea. It struck me as a great utilitarian vehicle. I'm going to build a LEAF pickup for my mom who needs a small pickup for yardwork and wants to drive an EV to work... whenever I get some free time from all my other projects.

I like the idea of a rear tray but I think I'm just going to use the stock sheet metal and make a bed out of it. Probably with a 30kwh salvaged LEAF with rear damage.

Here's a couple civics for inspiration.


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## Curtis_RVA (Jun 3, 2021)

Big El Camino vibes from that.


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## Kato659 (Aug 5, 2019)

Big Dodge Rampage energy. Here's mine (ICE powered) hunched below the bed rails of a stock F150:


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

This would be a _coupe utility_. They have been common (as factory models) for a long time, so there are many examples if you know what to look for... but only some manufacturers do them, and that generally does not include Nissan. Factory coupe utilities typically have a body like that Leaf conversion; a tray back is common on commercial vehicles, but less common on vehicles of this type sharing the front with a passenger car.

The challenge is entirely structural: keeping the required strength with no structural panels above the tops of the rear tires in a vehicle designed for full body. This is simpler if you keep the original wheelbase, but the vehicle would likely be more useful (depending on how you intend to use it) with a wheelbase stretch. That Rampage has a wheelbase 194 mm (7.6") longer than the Omni/Horizon on which is based; one of the few other similar vehicles familiar in North America was the Rabbit Pickup (Caddy elsewhere) which was 225 mm (8.8") longer than the Rabbit (Golf). 

Both the Rampage and the Rabbit Pickup used an entirely different rear suspension from the corresponding hatchbacks - the same design would have worked fine but they needed more capacity and stuck in the cheapest possible hardware (beam axle on leaf springs) because that's good enough for a truck. It makes sense to keep the Leaf suspension, but within the load capacity of that hardware or whatever can be easily swapped in (the Leaf shares chassis parts with some other Nissan models).

Of course all of this has nothing to do with the Leaf being an EV... although if you have enough load capacity and stretch the wheelbase, you could possibly add more battery.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

The bed I see is more like the VW type 2 with fold down sides and storage under.
Not sure how this will translate yet or which vehicle will present the best starting point.
Those civics are well done. The internet images of Bolt and Leaf pick ups are not very attractive.
I am a big fan of both the Comanche and the Rampage. Taking a new salvage vehicle and injecting some history is where my thoughts are.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Adding the e golf.
This company 3d prints the parts for this conversion and many others.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

gary32 said:


> The bed I see is more like the VW type 2 with fold down sides and storage under.


The Transporter Pickup (of the rear-engine generations) is based on a van; the van floor is essentially still there, with the roof replaced by a lower cargo deck. The storage is between the van floor and the cargo deck, accessed by hatches roughly where the original side rear door would be.

All of that translates reasonably to the conversion of four-door sedan or hatchback/wagon, with the original floor in place, the roof replaced by the new deck, and the rear passenger doors replaced by cargo hatches. In the usual lower-floor pickup, there's no useful space left for under-bed storage compartments.

It's too bad there's no common compact EV which is a wagon - the extra body length and perhaps even wheelbase would be good for the pickup conversion.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

gary32 said:


> Adding the e golf.
> This company 3d prints the parts for this conversion and many others.
> 
> 
> ...


That looks really nice, and the kit is thorough. I wouldn't want a vehicle with dissimilar materials riveted together and the rivets covered with body filler, but it works. The first parts installed are structural vertical side panels, and something like that would be needed. The Smyth Impreza kit has horizontal side beams as well.

As far as I know, the e-Golf started in 2012, on a much newer generation platform than that kit fits. Of course a similar thing could be done with a newer Golf, but not with the kit. Smyth offers a kit for the slightly newer Jetta (up to 2010), but that's still not an e-Golf.

Unrelated to the conversion of an EV, the Smyth New Beetle conversion looks interesting, with the stepside box.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

All of that translates reasonably to the conversion of four-door sedan or hatchback/wagon, with the original floor in place, the roof replaced by the new deck, and the rear passenger doors replaced by cargo hatches. In the usual lower-floor pickup, there's no useful space left for under-bed storage compartments.

Thanks Brian, 
Yes those were my thoughts exactly use as much original stuff as possible but top it off with a bed.
I emailed Smyth yesterday inquiring about kits for full electrics, let you know what they say.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)




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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Talked to the owner @ Smyth on Friday he's a big fan of the Volt.
His company is having a recovery year but likes the feasibility of an electric truck so maybe next year.
Found this image.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

gary32 said:


> Talked to the owner @ Smyth on Friday he's a big fan of the Volt.
> His company is having a recovery year but likes the feasibility of an electric truck so maybe next year.


That's encouraging. 



gary32 said:


> Found this image.
> View attachment 122932


Well, at least we know that it can be done. 

The better starting point for a compact Nissan EV pickup would, of course, be the e-NV200 van which is built on the same platform - and just leaving it as a van would work for many things that a pickup truck is used for - but of course those are basically non-existent in North America. The NV200 has a 225 mm (9") longer wheelbase than the Leaf; it even uses the same battery, but only 40 kWh and still with a 80 kW motor.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Cadillac CT 6 PHEV cousin of the Volt though a hybrid not a pure electric. Found a couple salvage vehicles for sale this photo is from the salvage yard. Start with a nice well engineered vehicle and end up with a beautiful truck with no excuses.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

gary32 said:


> Cadillac CT 6 PHEV cousin of the Volt though a hybrid not a pure electric. Found a couple salvage vehicles for sale this photo is from the salvage yard. Start with a nice well engineered vehicle and end up with a beautiful truck with no excuses.


The CT6 PHEV is an interesting option. I was aware of it as GM's "other PHEV", but as I generally ignore Cadillacs I didn't realize how different it is from the Volt. Other than the battery, it's more closely related to a 2009-2019 Yukon/Tahoe/Escalade hybrid than to the Volt.

The CT6 is much bigger than a Volt (or Leaf) with a longer wheelbase which would help in accommodating a decent length of box or deck. It's also rear wheel drive, which is good when the truck is loaded. Unfortunately, the battery (using the same modules as the Volt) is in an enormous block over the rear axle, which would need to be relocated for a pickup and probably even for a flat deck. If the CT6 is to be used as a battery-electric vehicle with just the stock 18 kWh battery (which would have too little range to be worthwhile), it could possibly be relocated to the space under the hood vacated by the engine.

The rear wheel drive means that the CT6 PHEV has the first longitudinal hybrid transmission from GM since the 2009-2013 Two-Mode pickups and SUVs... and it appears to be the same transmission design as that Two-Mode.

Just as some people are now using the hybrid transmissions from the Lexus GS 450h and LS 600h as EV drive units, the CT6 transmission could be used without the engine and with a larger battery. It presumably uses both motors in EV mode (in one of two fixed gear ratios), which would mean that it (unlike the Lexus) could use its full electric motor power in an EV without modification.

The CT6's "Omega" platform include an excellent suspension design and some really impressive aluminum structural castings. I think you would want to keep all of that.
Cadillac Engineer Travis Hester Spills Out The New CT6’s Secrets And Talks About The Future


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## Kato659 (Aug 5, 2019)

brian_ said:


> The CT6 PHEV is an interesting option. I was aware of it as GM's "other PHEV", but as I generally ignore Cadillacs I didn't realize how different it is from the Volt. Other than the battery, it's more closely related to a 2009-2019 Yukon/Tahoe/Escalade hybrid than to the Volt.
> 
> The CT6 is much bigger than a Volt (or Leaf) with a longer wheelbase which would help in accommodating a decent length of box or deck. It's also rear wheel drive, which is good when the truck is loaded. Unfortunately, the battery (using the same modules as the Volt) is in an enormous block over the rear axle, which would need to be relocated for a pickup and probably even for a flat deck. If the CT6 is to be used as a battery-electric vehicle with just the stock 18 kWh battery (which would have too little range to be worthwhile), it could possibly be relocated to the space under the hood vacated by the engine.
> 
> ...


The Cadillac "Volt" was the ELR: Cadillac ELR - Wikipedia
The same or similar drive train and battery to the Volt, but supposedly with a little extra pep in acceleration. It also was a 2 door instead of a 4 door. It was also laughably expensive.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Kato659 said:


> The Cadillac "Volt" was the ELR: Cadillac ELR - Wikipedia


Good catch - the ELR was replaced by the CT6 PHEV in the role of "Cadillac's PHEV", and they're very different models. The CT6, as Gary said, would be a better truck.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

The Caddy ($90k plus new) would make an awesome full size truck for someone.
But 31 miles of electric range or like Brian suggests 200hp of electric propulsion with larger battery or another Volt battery is not what I had in mind. You would have a beautiful luxurious truck with 62 miles of electric range. A complex vehicle with a lot of luxury stuff I would not want or know how to use.

I am looking for simplicity and performance that doesn't weigh a lot. 
What a beautiful car.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Getting back to low cost Leaf flatbed conversions: the Leaf looks like it has substantial rocker panels/sills and B posts:










This is probably to provide maximum protection for the battery and passengers.

This would also be a good spot for a fabricated perimeter/ ladder type flat bed frame to tie into and compensate structurally for the cutaway rear part of the Unibody frame. The classic flatbed is on top of the rear wheel fenders to provide max flat surface area. The fabricated frame rails would have to extend back enough to clear the end of the battery box, then in sharply to clear the tires and up to the height of the flat bed, then straight back. They could tip down in the back to accommodate a lower mounted bumper/hitch. If you want to use the stock trailing arm/twist beam/coil spring rear axle, more frame contortions may be necessary. You might be able to find a simpler to adapt leaf spring, beam axle set-up with parking brakes and ABS.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

The Chevy cooling system and 60 kHw battery on every Bolt might make it easier to find a good salvage vehicle that can be re-registered before the truck transformation. The Nissan Leaf Plus with 62khw because of lower numbers is harder to find in good shape from salvage auctions. 
Electro wrks a simple coil over either assist or freestanding might be easiest. My goal is to use every factory engineered part I can to keep it from becoming a unicorn with no resale value.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

The issue with a ladder frame extension is tying it into the remaining unibody. The roof is an important part of the structure, so something still needs to tie into that, which is the reason for the black "structural vertical side panels" in the Smyth conversion which I mentioned earlier (shown from 1:10 to 1:24 in the "VW Driveway Ute build" video). Frame grab:









For many years some European unibody commercial vehicles, which are best known in their van form, have been available as "tractor cab" or "tractor head" or "power head" version, which is just the cab (complete with front wheel drive powertrain and chassis) with the structure at the bottom cut off and terminated with flanges so that a specialty vehicle manufacturer can bolt on a ladder frame. These are used to make motorhomes (including the Winnebago LeSharo on a Renault Trafic and later Winnebago Rialta on a VW Transporter T4/EuroVan); AL-KO is a major supplier of low-floor rear chassis to use with tractors. If you just cut off a vehicle and attach to the lower structure, it won't be sound; these vehicles are designed so that at least in the "tractor" version the extension only needs to be attached at the bottom.

These images borrowed from a Polish online article about van customization show the Sprinter tractor head (in white) with a temporary rear chassis (in black) attached for shipping; otherwise they are bolted together in back-to-back pairs for transport, which is just as amusing.















While think these images are interesting, the point is just that a ladder frame can be bolted to a unibody truncated vehicle, but it isn't just a matter of chopping off the vehicle and bolting on at the bottom.

With the plan to be an over-the-tire flat deck, the rear structure can be quite tall (not just a low pair of rails), which is good, but there would still need to be some equivalent to those tall panels in the Smyth conversion to tie into the vehicle structure properly.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

I am not here to build a truck on the inter web, I'm a fabricator.
Either chassis needs some solid frame extensions welded to the existing steel chassis.
Smyth provides some great ideas and case studies for connection to existing framework but no full electrics.
The Aluminum bed with fold down sides is more prevalent on European work trucks. Hoping the original body work can be used to hide the required frame and provide lockable storage like the old VW transporters and look like a factory effort. More to follow and thanks for all your thoughtful responses.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

brian_ said:


> While think these images are interesting, the point is just that a ladder frame can be bolted to a unibody truncated vehicle, but it isn't just a matter of chopping off the vehicle and bolting on at the bottom.


With the sills and rocker panel so large I was envisioning a maximum height and width rectangular tube (or several tubes) inserted in them as far forward as possible. Then, the reinforcing continues, if needed, with adequate overlap, to the outside of the front subframe that supports the front suspension, . The tube wall and reinforcing plate thicknesses TBD for the deflection limits and strength required. The front subframe can be seen in these great photos from Edmonds: 2011 Nissan Leaf: Suspension Walkaround

The downside of this perimeter/ladder frame as compared to the stock Unibody frames is a weight penalty for the same chassis stiffness. Most designers, to save weight, allow some flexing of the frame. As long as the vehicle steers properly, the door don't jam or pop open, the glass doesn't crack or pop out, and the frame doesn't crack or go swayback with the driving conditions the vehicle is designed for over its life, they call it good. The battery box in this case needs to be evaluated as a structure that could safely add stiffness to the frame or mounted with rubber mounts to allow the frame to move around it.


gary32 said:


> Electro wrks a simple coil over either assist or freestanding might be easiest. My goal is to use every factory engineered part I can to keep it from becoming a unicorn with no resale


SPOILER ALERT: I think insurance people , the DMV, and everybody else is going to realize this is a modified vehicle as soon as they notice half the vehicle has been chopped away! I do understand your point. In this case with the extra non-Unibody frame weight, the flatbed weight (even if it is aluminum), and your desired carrying capacity the stock hubs and axles may not be up to the job. If you go stock, you should have a back-up plan using a heavier duty rear axle if the truck starts eating rear hubs, axles or other parts


gary32 said:


> I am not here to build a truck on the inter web


What the hell man!, where's the fun in that?!
.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

The reinforcing technique I've described of beefing-up the sills is typically the major modification that's done when a coupe is converted to a convertible.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> With the sills and rocker panel so large I was envisioning a maximum height and width rectangular tube (or several tubes) inserted in them as far forward as possible. Then, the reinforcing continues, if needed, with adequate overlap, to the outside of the front subframe that supports the front suspension, . The tube wall and reinforcing plate thicknesses TBD for the deflection limits and strength required.


Right, but tying into the sills alones (even when done properly like this) is probably not quite adequate in a cut-off full body vehicle.



electro wrks said:


> The front subframe can be seen in these great photos from Edmonds: 2011 Nissan Leaf: Suspension Walkaround


The front subframe is in a very different situation: it does not cantilever forward of a cut-off structure, it bolts to the bottom of a unibody which extends over it.

I think those Edmunds walk-arounds are great.  There are quite a few of them, and they show the suspension well... but as usual, this doesn't show the subframe well because the underbody covers are in place and the car isn't on a hoist. From an EcoModder thread, here's a Leaf (on it's side!) showing the black front subframe and front suspension control arms, bolted to the red unibody (showing the aluminum drive unit framed by the subframe):









There were several vehicles designed with a front "half-frame" which bolted to the unibody remainder of the vehicle through arms that overlapped the floor of the unibody and extended forward of the unibody - these were GM's of the 1960's and 70's, such as the F-Body (Camaro/Firebird), later X-Body (Chevy II/Nova), and even the later Astro van. I think it's important to note that they were designed for this (not cut off of a full unibody) and the end of the unibody was closed (by the firewall), not just the open end of a box.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

My plan (post #6) is purchasing a salvage late model Bolt (60 kHw) or Leaf (62 kHw) with minor damages repair it, get it reregistered and insured make Gavin Newsome and Caitlyn Jenner happy then do the truck conversion.
Lower rectangular steel elements running just above or below the floor from front firewall to rear of bed with big welded contact pads should tie the unibody to the frame and provide strength for the bed. The aluminum bed with fold down sides is not to save weight it's just my preference. I need to get the car before discussing or sharing exact frame layout.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

The sub frame I was referring to is the permanently mounted (welded), S shaped, rectangular cross section piece that supports the front shock towers that support almost all of the weight load on the front wheels. Not the bolt-on piece that supports the motor, inverter, and other drive train parts.



.
















The red, S curved piece behind the strut with tower attached. The rectangular cross section piece at the tail end of the yellow arrow

Sorry for the confusion. If this frame section(let's call it that) is properly tied into a reinforced sill with more rectangular tubing and other reinforcements, it should be more than adequate to support the vehicle with its rear section cut away.

Frame section like this are common on Unibodies. Some Bracket Racer drag racers tie into this piece with an added rectangular frame section located inside the vehicle that extends back between your feet to the rear spring mount frame section. This adds strength and stiffness to the Uinibody. This is similar to what I am proposing but without the piece of tubing interfering with your feet inside the vehicle.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> The sub frame I was referring to is the permanently mounted (welded), S shaped, rectangular cross section piece that supports the front shock towers that support almost all of the weight load on the front wheels. Not the bolt-on piece that supports the motor, inverter, and other drive train parts.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Okay, that makes more sense... not a subframe at all.



electro wrks said:


> If this frame section(let's call it that) is properly tied into a reinforced sill with more rectangular tubing and other reinforcements, it should be more than adequate to support the vehicle with its rear section cut away.
> 
> Frame section like this are common on Unibodies. Some Bracket Racer drag racers tie into this piece with an added rectangular frame section located inside the vehicle that extends back between your feet to the rear spring mount frame section. This adds strength and stiffness to the Uinibody. This is similar to what I am proposing but with out the piece of tubing interfering with your feet inside the vehicle.


This section of the structure (a spring/strut tower or pocket, found both front and rear) is good, and I wouldn't want to eliminate it in any modification, but it's supported by all of the rest of the structure, not just the floor and sills. The load paths include the roof structure, which is why when Smyth cut the roof away they added those vertical side panels... which is happening way ahead of the rear towers.

It would be possible to add diagonal bars from the rear suspension towers to the top of the B-pillars (the back of the remaining upper body), which would look and function like the braces used with a roll cage (which make a huge difference to structural stiffness while driving, aside from protecting in a rollover), but I don't know if they would be acceptable in the pickup configuration (it depends on personal preference, and the degree to which access over the side is important).


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

brian_ said:


> This section of the structure (a spring/strut tower or pocket, found both front and rear) is good, and I wouldn't want to eliminate it in any modification, but it's supported by all of the rest of the structure, not just the floor and sills. The load paths include the roof structure, which is why when Smyth cut the roof away they added those vertical side panels... which is happening way ahead of the rear towers.
> 
> It would be possible to add diagonal bars from the rear suspension towers to the top of the B-pillars (the back of the remaining upper body), which would look and function like the braces used with a roll cage (which make a huge difference to structural stiffness while driving, aside from protecting in a rollover), but I don't know if they would be acceptable in the pickup configuration (it depends on personal preference, and the degree to which access over the side is important).


Granted if you want to save weight this semi- Unibody design will do it. But it does take up lot of potential cargo space and push the cargo load to the rear of the vehicle- something that reduces carrying capacity. A properly designed and fabricated perimeter/ladder frame grafted to the properly tied together and reinforced existing sills and front frame section would also work and free-up this space.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> Granted if you want to save weight this semi- Unibody design will do it. But it does take up lot of potential cargo space and push the cargo load to the rear of the vehicle- something that reduces carrying capacity.


I don't know what kind of structure you're imagining which would take up space like that, but it's not anything that I suggested.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

In this image the black braces with all of the holes impinge ~ 1' into a potential cargo area:











Diagonal braces, as you have described, as far as I can tell, would impinge even more. This is with a full width flat bed cargo area, as we are still assuming(?). As I recall, we are writing about a flat bed work truck conversion here.This is a utility vehicle where you want to carry the maximum possible load, volume and/or weight wise. The bracing would limit how much material could be carried in the forward position on the bed.

brian, people and manufacturers cut the roofs off of Unibody vehicles all the time. It's called turning them into a convertible or an open roof design. How do you think they get away with this? They reinforce other areas of the vehicle so that the load forces otherwise taken up by the roof structure are applied to the reinforced areas. Is it as efficient, weight wise, as the original Unibody? No. Does it have the smooth, elegant flow of load forces as in a well designed Unibody? No. Damn, the beds to short and the bracing gets in the way of my load because I listened to brian and his roof loading hang-up!

As mentioned before, the Leaf looks to have large cross section sills and rocker panels. This is partly because the Leaf has a battery-in-floor design. This space looks like it could accommodate inside it and welded or otherwise attached to it, a reinforcing frame structure. This structure would have a high enough resistance bending moment (RBM see Medium-Duty Chassis & Suspension Fundamentals , Step 5 ) to take up the load otherwise carried by the now cut away back roof structure. If other structures with a high enough RBMs are extended to the front and rear axles with proper frame reinforcing, if needed, there would be no need for the roof or bracing to take up the loads on the vehicle.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

A simple headache bar welded to the added frame elements outside the cab tied to the roof and body side panels would provide more than enough support for the missing roof and supplement the pillars behind the front doors. Still a simple roll cage type of structure that's space efficient and super strong.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Enclosing the open back of the cab is going to be a lot of work if you want it to look reasonably nice and be weather proof. Some builders have cut out the backs of junked pick-up cabs to graft on. But, it is a lot of body work. Also, they have taken the corrugated floors out of junked pick-up beds to build their flat beds. You wrote about drop side beds. Do you have a source for those? Or, were you going to fab one?


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Not sure about the rear cab.
Alumbody is pretty close to my home, the sides and rear are too high, just the lowest solid element is what I had in mind. I would rather buy used.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Trucks I have never seen before in my search for inspiration.


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## John_G (Jun 6, 2020)

Alternatively....


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Spent the last 2+ weeks test driving and climbing under a 62 kWh Leaf, Chevy Bolt, Chevy Volt, Hyundai and Kia evs and hybrids. I think the one vehicle that offers the most simplicity and performance is the Chevy Bolt. I think the upright driving position and cabin layout best suits a small truck conversion and will make a better more usable end product. Lots of 2017's coming off lease and available at auction for reasonable money might be less hassle to skip the salvage title and buy a whole car with some minor defects that can be registered then converted.

This Chevy Bolt pick up/rear lunch box bed April fools joke photo is really god awful.
The best styled upright type small truck for me is the VW in another color.


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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

Volkswagen did this since the beginning: if you can find (and afford) something like that, you will have a classic car:


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Thank you schelle 63. I currently own a 1974 BMW 2002.
I also owned a hot rodded 1965 type 2 van for 10 years sold it in the 80's.
I do not want another classic car with an electric drivetrain and limited uses. I want a modern electric small pick up that all members of my family can use with all the modern safety protections and interface designed and engineered electric with the body converted to a small truck. But not ugly.
My family bought the type 2 new in 1965. When I sold her she looked like this with the colors reversed. No regrets.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> In this image the black braces with all of the holes impinge ~ 1' into a potential cargo area:
> 
> 
> View attachment 122989
> ...


They flank the front of the cargo area. Of course with a flat deck, they would intrude into the deck, but unless you're determined to carry cargo the full width of the deck, that won't matter. If actually trying for maximum cargo capacity, a compact car is simply the wrong place to start.



electro wrks said:


> As mentioned before, the Leaf looks to have large cross section sills and rocker panels. This is partly because the Leaf has a battery-in-floor design.


The structure of the Leaf is just like all of the other Nissan models sharing the same platform, with the floor panel bumped up from the front seat area rearward between the structural rails to accommodate the battery. So yes, you can cut off the top and let it flop around, reinforcing the just the lower structure, using convertible conversion practice as a model for building a cargo vehicle.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

John_G said:


> Alternatively....
> View attachment 123023


I really like that 
A more car-like version of the usual Type 2 pickup.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

gary32 said:


> This Chevy Bolt pick up/rear lunch box bed April fools joke photo is really god awful.
> The best styled upright type small truck for me is the VW in another color.
> View attachment 123046
> View attachment 123047


Right - the Bolt is too short to make a cargo box or deck and keep the rear seat. The Transporter is a lot longer, so it can keep and extended cab and still have a decent cargo bed.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

brian_ said:


> They flank the front of the cargo area. Of course with a flat deck, they would intrude into the deck, but unless you're determined to carry cargo the full width of the deck, that won't matter. If actually trying for maximum cargo capacity, a compact car is simply the wrong place to start.


The main problem with diagonal bracing, or any other bracing, is that it blocks off some of the squared off area defined by the back of the cab and the surface of the flatbed This is a problem when you try to side load a box or pallet. You may use a fork lift to do this, for good weight distribution have the load as far forward as possible, and not be able or want to load it from the back.

I just compared the dimension/ weight specs my 80's Nissan pickup to those of the Leaf. They both have about the same listed payload capacity: 1000 -1100 lbs.The wheelbase of the PU is ~4" longer mostly because it is a King Cab model. The listed capacity of the PU rear axle is ~100lbs more than the Leaf. In short, these 2 vehicle have very similar dimension/weight specs.

This PU is my go to vehicle for most of what I pickup and move around. A 800lb motorcycle, 1000lbs of onsite welding and metal fab equipment. It's hauled many, many 1000lb loads of all types of batteries, scrap metal, stuff for the garden, all kinds of riding lawn mowers, a golf cart(sans batteries) a 26" sailboat mast. It is a very handy vehicle for small everyday loads, and gets 3-4 X the MPG of my full size PU. A Leaf modified into a PU or flat bed would be a great replacement for my current small PU. Although, I think I'll wait until the longer range, later model Leafs become available to modify.


brian_ said:


> The structure of the Leaf is just like all of the other Nissan models sharing the same platform, with the floor panel bumped up from the front seat area rearward between the structural rails to accommodate the battery. So yes, you can cut off the top and let it flop around, reinforcing the just the lower structure, using convertible conversion practice as a model for building a cargo vehicle.


It seems doable to me.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

Lots of fans for smaller Japanese pick ups.


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## Electric A1 (Oct 16, 2016)

Here's a little render I put together of what a LEAF might look like if you grafted the rear portion of a Frontier bed onto the back. I think in real life you'd have to get pretty creative to make the body lines match up, haha.


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