# im so new to all this and need help



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

We're going to need a lot more details. Does the car move at all? What batteries, what charger, motor, controller, etc. Pictures of your setup would really help.


----------



## rillip3 (Jun 19, 2009)

You say it doesn't charge and the gauges don't work. Does anything else work?

It sounds like maybe your wiring is screwy. Do you get the full pack voltage if you test it from the first terminal to the last with a voltmeter? If not, there's your problem, broken circuit somewhere in there. If so, then start testing the wiring at each point along the way and see if you're getting juice. A picture of your wiring diagram might help.


----------



## peggus (Feb 18, 2008)

This is a good place to post such questions. Please provide as much information as possible, pictures and wiring diagrams really help. 

Where are you located? Maybe someone near you can pop by and help.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Ok sorry it took so long to get back to you nice folks but I had to work. 
so here goes: it has a D&D ES-15A motor 40 HP peak-12HP Continuous
Altrax 7245(vdc/450amp) controller
adapter plate for vehicle
Shaft Coupler-motor to flywheel
0-5 Throttler
contracctor-Kilovac EV200(2000 amp rupture 200 amp continuous)or all bright SW200
Fuse-500amp slow blow 
50mv-500AmpShunt
o-150 VDC Volt Meter
0-500 Amp Meter
Gauge Bracket for Meters
32 ft of #2/0ga. Wire Cable 20 feet of two gage from home depot
12-High Current Ring Terminals
Battery Charger -5-10 amp (adjustable voltage 12-72 VDC)
Battery Charger - 12 vdc 6\4\2 amp (smart charger)

Well thats what the kit came with. I have tried and tried to put pics up but it doesnt work. can I email them to you and you post for me? sorry that im so much trouble.. p.s. I live in Hayward Ca. 94541


----------



## Guest (Jul 24, 2010)

> ..........p.s. I live in Hayward Ca. 94541


Well that explains the problems 

Kidding aside. We still need more information. Do you have a multimeter? 

Lets start with this and move forward. If you don't, go get one. When you get one you need to test your pack and see what voltage your pack is. 

Pete


----------



## rillip3 (Jun 19, 2009)

Also, you don't list what kind/how many batteries are connected. Could be important given it's apparently a power issue.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

sure, send the pics to [email protected] and i will post them for you, but you really need to send pics of the whole thing, battery wires, motor wires, controller wires, throttle wires, every thing, and then hopefully some one can see the problem or help to diagnose it for you.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

gottdi said:


> Well that explains the problems
> 
> Kidding aside. We still need more information. Do you have a multimeter?
> 
> ...


Thank u! I Soo need a good laugh. I dont even know why I stayed in hayward . I grew up in berkeley/albany. 
Where would I get a multimeter? Is it easy to use? 

p.s. 6 maxrate premium plus 93ah(20 hour rate
350 wpc
12 volts


----------



## Guest (Jul 24, 2010)

KRAGEN has them. Autozone has them. Easy to use. Open and read the directions.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

ok here are the pics from DB showing his build. he says nothing is working so my first question is, is the contactor working?


----------



## rillip3 (Jun 19, 2009)

I can see only five batteries in this picture; four appear to be traction and the black one appears to be accessory, at a guess. Trying to follow how they're connected, I'm getting pretty confused. Starting from the right, battery 1 appears to be connected + to - with battery 4 (upper left). 4 is then connected to 2 (lower shelf, in the middle) - to + AND battery 3 (lower left) from + to -. Battery 3 appears to go to the contactor (guessing that's the black box on the right side). That's all the connections I see.

So in short 1 - 4, 4-2, 4-3, 3-contactor. It should look 1 -2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-contactor, some-part-1. I could be seeing wrong, but it looks to me like the pack doesn't make a closed circuit. Not to mention wherever battery five and six are. I'd be curious to see the voltage from most positive to most negative.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

rillip3 said:


> I can see only five batteries in this picture; for appear to be traction and the black one appears to be accessory, at a guess. Trying to follow how they're connected, I'm getting pretty confused. Starting from the right, battery 1 appears to be connected + to - with battery 4 (upper left). 4 is then connected to 2 (lower shelf, in the middle) - to + AND battery 3 (lower left) from + to -. Battery 3 appears to go to the contactor (guessing that's the black box on the right side). That's all the connections I see.
> 
> So in short 1 - 4, 4-2, 4-3, 3-contactor. It should looke 1 -2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-contactor. I could be seeing wrong, but it looks to me like the pack doesn't make a closed circuit. Not to mention wherever battery five and six are. I'd be curious to see the voltage from most positive to most negative.


sorry that is my falt, i had to go out , i have the rest of the pics ready, just need to post them, I will when i get home.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

I am going to get a voltmeter today . sorry I was low on funds


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

I will take some better pic's of the wiring of the batterys today and send them to you. I again would like o thank you


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Ok . I picked up a muiltmeter . kinda of diffrent tool . What am I looking for?


----------



## rillip3 (Jun 19, 2009)

delivery boy said:


> Ok . I picked up a muiltmeter . kinda of diffrent tool . What am I looking for?


To start with, put the red probe on the most positive battery terminal and the black probe on the most negative terminal. If your pack is split to more than one place, then just use the two that are farthest apart that you can reach safely with the tool. You should see the voltage go up to your standard pack voltage. If you see it do nothing, that means there's a break in the circuit somewhere; one of your batteries is not connect to your other batteries and needs to be fixed. There are more things we can check with it if the pack turns up okay.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Well-- the plot thickens-. I tested the batterys in the back of the car they are 4 of them. The meter blasted its way too 000 .I mean it was peg there like it had current pushing and keeping it there. So then I went to the front of the car and tested those two, it was the oppiseit way and peg there. And heres the kicker. I move the the throttle and the car moved ! with the key off! Help


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

um, does the key turn the contactor on and off?


----------



## Guest (Jul 29, 2010)

Shut it all down and disconnect every thing and start over from the bottom. Hook your batteries properly in series then before hooking them to the controller check the voltage of the entire pack. You put your multi meter at the 500 volt setting DC. If you put it at the 20 volt setting you will get a 000 reading because the voltage is too high for that setting. I think you need to look and read your controller operating manual again then read it again to be sure you understand what needs to be connected and where. I'd say your putting yourself and your car at risk if you just go forward with no knowledge of what what needs to be done. DIY means you should have a good basic understanding of what your doing. No matter what DIY project you are doing. If you are doing a wood working DIY I'd expect you know how things need to be done and that you can perform the task safely. 

START OVER. 

Pete 

We will help but you need to ask yourself if you think you can really do this safely. If not then you need to learn a bunch more before starting the project. I think most folks can do this but you must learn some good safe basics. The voltage can kill if mishandled.


----------



## Guest (Jul 29, 2010)

Also read the directions for the multimeter and learn that before tackling building an EV. If you can't master the multimeter in it's most basic function then you have no business building an EV. Sorry but this is what I am getting from your questions.


----------



## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Delivery boy,

I'm with Gotti on this - close the bonnet and get somebody to help you

If you touch the wrong things under there you will DIE! - and give us all a bad name!

Working on an EV is the same risk as working on house electrics - safe IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING

Please get somebody to help you


----------



## rillip3 (Jun 19, 2009)

delivery boy said:


> Well-- the plot thickens-. I tested the batterys in the back of the car they are 4 of them. The meter blasted its way too 000 .I mean it was peg there like it had current pushing and keeping it there. So then I went to the front of the car and tested those two, it was the oppiseit way and peg there. And heres the kicker. I move the the throttle and the car moved ! with the key off! Help


It sounds like your wiring is pretty much all wrong. Carefully disconnect your batteries from each other, get used to using the multimeter, and refer to the wiring diagrams for your kit. If you didn't get wiring diagrams with the kit, I'd go get some books like Convert It by Michael P. Brown and other such resources to learn about how the wiring works and how the components should be connected.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

how do I check the contactor to see if it turns off or on with the key?


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

I would get sombody to help me on this . But as you know not that meny people know about an EV car none in Hayward ca. I understand what you and gottidi are saying . But I have gotten this far and have invested so much money($6500 dollars) and time into it . That I just cant back out. so my option are not much. 
I will do my homework tho. I will buy a good muiltmiter.I brought the cheapest one. and learn how to use it . I guess I will go from there.


----------



## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Delivery boy

Have you got any mates who know about electrics - 
Electrician? or just somebody who knows how to wire stuff

They don't have to know about electric cars - just enough about electricity to keep you safe

Even a computer geek (hardware)

Even just a friend who is at the same level as you - the old two heads bit


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

A cheap multimeter is fine. Disconnect all your batteries and start over until you know where the problem is. If the car is moving with the contactor "off", you have a serious and potentially dangerous problem. Your motor could go full on if you end up bypassing the controller somehow.
Alltrax has a good simple wiring diagram that should help you.


----------



## Guest (Jul 30, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> how do I check the contactor to see if it turns off or on with the key?


Usually you will hear a good audible click or clack when they connect or disconnect. 

Yes you have a problem. I am not saying to just ditch it altogether but you need to step back a few steps and start over again and yes the cheap multimeter will do you just fine. Mine is a cheap-o unit and it is just fine for what I need. You should not have any power to the motor or controller with the key off. Bust out your wiring diagram for your controller. It should not be that complex or hard to setup. Does your contactor have a 12 or 24 volt solenoid? If you take 12 volts and try to manually operate the solenoid and it does not work then maybe you have a 24 volt one. Try again with 24 volts. If it still does not work then you may have it wired up wrong or its bad. Some how you are wired around that solenoid and you have power all the time. Not a good thing at all. 

Go disconnect your batteries. 

Make a clear diagram on your computer and send that to us to look at. 

Pete


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

yep, gottdi is right, first disconnect the batteries so every thing is safe.


what does your contactor look like did you send a picture?


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

ok, I see your contactor, now first you need to look on the contactor and see what the voltage is do that and post here I will try to walk you through it.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

your system should be wired similar to this,

first find a 12v power wire from the key switch and connect it to one of the pins on the contactor coil, then connect the other pin to the ground from the 12v battery.

wire the batteries for 72v. 
then connect the 72v positive wire to one side of the contactor.

then go from the other side of the contactor to the battery positive terminal on the controller.

then connect the 72v negative wire to the battery negative terminal on the controller.

now connect the motor negative terminal on the controller to the negative terminal on the motor, make sure that is the negative terminal not the positive.

then connect a cable from the motor positive terminal to the battery positive terminal on the controller.


now connect a wire from battery positive terminal on the controller to the pin marked 1 on the alltrax controller, that is your power for the controller.

next connect the pot box wires to the pins marked 2 and 3 those are the throttle pins.

then simply turn on the key, you should hear a loud click, that is the contactor engauging. if that works, jack the car up and get both wheels of the ground for safty purposes, turn the key and press the throttle a little you should here the motor turn. after doing all of this post results.


----------



## Duxuk (Jul 11, 2009)

The Alltrax website has adocument department where you will find a simple wiring diagram. I used it and it all works! (620 miles so far). It is very much as described above but in my case the contactor needs 72V through the key switch and coil, as in the Alltrax diagram.

Andrew.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

hopefully he has a contactor with 12v coils


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Yes-I do have someone. he was the guy that help me weld everthing . He has some knowledge about electricity.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Wow Bill thank you ! I have NEVER heard a peep out of the contactor(kilovac EV200(2000amprupture 200 amp cont.). I am learning so much! we will make this work


----------



## Guest (Aug 1, 2010)

Kilovac ev200 has a 12 volt coil. Nice. Should be quite audible. I have three of these puppies and they are good. Small, light weight and they just plain work. Did you disconnect your batteries?

Pete 

Get some more photos of your setup. Batteries? Make a diagram of your pack and how you have them all hooked together and include the + and - side of each. Post a diagram of the controller. How about your Key switch. How is that hooked up?


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Here's a basic diagram for the AXE controllers, PDF format: http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc100-045-A_DWG-AXE-No-Reverse-wire-dia.pdf


----------



## Guest (Aug 1, 2010)

Delivery Boy needs to do that, not you. He needs to do his home work. He needs to learn and he won't if we do the work for him. But I will have a look. I am thinking he is not reading and following directions but I am also thinking we are being strung along as well. 

Pete


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

the alltrax is pretty self explanitory, DB should be able to do it, there ia something weird going on here with his set up, he said that the motor turned with the key off so.....................


----------



## Guest (Aug 1, 2010)

> so.....................


Power is on all the time.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

gottdi said:


> Power is on all the time.


 
not a good thing.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

sounds to me like its wired around the contactor.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Or the contactor is always powered.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

gottdi said:


> Delivery Boy needs to do that, not you. He needs to do his home work. He needs to learn and he won't if we do the work for him.


I'm just trying to keep him from wrecking is EV or killing himself. That won't do anyone any good.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

i agree, but he should know these things for himself.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

JRP3 said:


> Or the contactor is always powered.


 
your right, his 12v circuit is not switched by the key, it is allways on.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

gottdi said:


> Kilovac ev200 has a 12 volt coil. Nice. Should be quite audible. I have three of these puppies and they are good. Small, light weight and they just plain work. Did you disconnect your batteries?
> 
> Pete
> 
> Get some more photos of your setup. Batteries? Make a diagram of your pack and how you have them all hooked together and include the + and - side of each. Post a diagram of the controller. How about your Key switch. How is that hooked up?


 
Ok - More pices to the puzzle . I never touch the key switch at all. which means the contactor is on all the time . not good I assume. I got a diagram of the battery that I drew up. I will email it to you and if would be so kind enough to post here for me I would appricated.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> Ok - More pices to the puzzle . I never touch the key switch at all. which means the contactor is on all the time . not good I assume. I got a diagram of the battery that I drew up. I will email it to you and if would be so kind enough to post here for me I would appricated.


 
well you just need to use your new mulimeter to find a 12v circuit that is turned on by the key. check in the fuse box with the meter, to see which fuses dont work, then turn on the key and check those same fuses, some of them will be on when you turn the key on. then run a wire from there to the contactor pin, its just that easy, then the contactor will be switched on and off with the key.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Ok I got the innova 3310 meter. I will switch to the bat. load test. 12v and check. The whole interior of the car lights- key ect , is powerd by one battery(#5) . That battey is not connected to the other batterys that run the motor. but it is connected to the contactor. also its the only battery that is not new. it is the battery the car came with.

Ok .I tested at 12v . The battery(#5) that just runs the headlights stop lights dome ect ect. Is charged at 12.30 so its good . Then I went inside the car to the fuse box. there I found the only 4 fuses that would be able to carry a 12v load. that was IGCOIL(15A) & RAIDO\CIGAR(15A) and turn the key on and tested them. the reading I got from IGCOIL was only at 6.10 . not enough?? So then I tested the raido/cigar and even got a lower reading 0.02. the other two read 000. All the other fuses are rank at 10 amps and lower.


----------



## kek_63 (Apr 20, 2008)

delivery boy said:


> Ok I got the innova 3310 meter. I will switch to the bat. load test. 12v and check........


Dude! Take Pete's advice and read the manual for your meter. You're not doing a battery load test - you are testing DC voltage. Read the manual or get someone to help you, please.

Peeking though the hands over my eyes,
Keith


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> Ok I got the innova 3310 meter. I will switch to the bat. load test. 12v and check. The whole interior of the car lights- key ect , is powerd by one battery(#5) . That battey is not connected to the other batterys that run the motor. but it is connected to the contactor. also its the only battery that is not new. it is the battery the car came with.
> 
> Ok .I tested at 12v . The battery(#5) that just runs the headlights stop lights dome ect ect. Is charged at 12.30 so its good . Then I went inside the car to the fuse box. there I found the only 4 fuses that would be able to carry a 12v load. that was IGCOIL(15A) & RAIDO\CIGAR(15A) and turn the key on and tested them. the reading I got from IGCOIL was only at 6.10 . not enough?? So then I tested the raido/cigar and even got a lower reading 0.02. the other two read 000. All the other fuses are rank at 10 amps and lower.


 
yes change the setting to voltage, then check it again, the one that says igcoil and the radio should only turn on with the key.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

kek_63 said:


> Peeking though the hands over my eyes,
> Keith


I'm standing right behind you


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Done deal! Thanks . I change it to DCV 500 and I got the 12v reading on the meter from IGCOIL. 
So I run a wire from the fuse box (IGCOIL) to the contactor. ?.What size wire do I use? 
How do I attach the wire to the IGCOIL fuse? Then I attach it to the positive of contactor right?


----------



## Guest (Aug 3, 2010)

You need to find the wire that is 12 volts only when the key is on. Usually one of the wires to the starter motor will do just fine. It is a high amp and heavy wire. You do not want the to connect your key to the always on 12 volts. Otherwise your contactor is always on even as it sits for weeks not doing anything. Zowie. 

That is not a good thing. I think I may not want to persue this too long in case of an accident I don't want to be named in any lawsuit. Not sure why you would try to build something you know nothing about before you learn enough to keep you safe. If your not a mechanic or electrician you really should steer clear of this until you have some knowledge under your belt. 

I did make a diagram of your battery pack and revised it a bit to what should look like.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Hi gottdi, Will it help if I swear not to sue anyone on this web site ever? 
S*%# I cut and threw away all the wires that were not attach to anything. 
I will call the guy to come over to help rewire the batterys. but why is battery 5 included ? Isnt that battery (5) sappost to be independent from the whole thing ? its just the battery that runs the lights horn wipers?


----------



## kek_63 (Apr 20, 2008)

delivery boy said:


> Hi gottdi, Will it help if I swear not to sue anyone on this web site ever?
> S*%# I cut and threw away all the wires that were not attach to anything.
> I will call the guy to come over to help rewire the batterys. but why is battery 5 included ? Isnt that battery (5) sappost to be independent from the whole thing ? its just the battery that runs the lights horn wipers?


My advice...
Step away from the car, grab a cold beverage and read through the WIKI on this site (tab in the top right corner). The answers to all your questions are there. If you run across any terms you don't understand - google them. Don't touch your car again until you fully understand the wiring diagram you recieved with your Alltraxx and can add all the systems in YOUR car to the schematic.

Remember, the magic smoke in those wires only moves one way,
Keith


----------



## Guest (Aug 3, 2010)

Did you know you have magic smoke too!  Be very careful. I only included the main pack for now. One step at a time. 

Batteries have lots of magic smoke and some plasma to go along with that smoke. 

Again, be very very carful. 

I agree. You need to step back and read a bunch of stuff before you venture forward. As you begin to understand you will begin to see how things work and go together. 

Pete 

As for the promise I won't sue, well I had a person rip me a new one and almost lost my job because they said I said something I did not. I do not take personal promises any longer from anyone. I am not near as trusting any more. Life can do that to you.


----------



## Guest (Aug 3, 2010)

> S*%# I cut and threw away all the wires that were not attach to anything.


Not such a smart thing to do now was it! This is the reason you need to know before you just blindly dig in. We have lots of life experience and lots of electronic and mechanic experience here on this site. Take full advantage of that and above all, DO YOUR HOMEWORK.


----------



## vpoppv (Jul 27, 2009)

I'm with everyone saying to step away from this until you get more familiar with everything- if you think it's a waste of money for your car not to move yet, just think of how much of a waste it would be if any of your components gets ruined!! Go here:

http://kiwiev.com/1_2d_the_donor_car.html

Watch every video twice. Get back to us and ask questions. Words like contactor, controller, pre-charge resistor, shunt, series, parallel, voltage, amperage, amp-hours, should all be second nature to you before you turn the key to go on your test drive....


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Well- I will step away and do research and learn . Mabey I should just cut my losses and just sell it. Not sure. But as of now here is where I am at . I dissconnected the contactor from the (5) battery that was independent . So no more 12v all the time . And I knew this would happen It also turn off the the alltrax 7245. So now instead of the contactor (kilovacEV200) having 12 volts to it all the time it just has a reading of 51 at the 500 dcv setting on the meter with key off . I also did find a wire (12v) that shuts off and on wiith the key. but the gage of the wire is no where near the #2/0 gage that is running to the contactor(KilovacEV200) . So thats were I am at this moment


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Ok -(big sigh) I have been doing my research. And have decided to just focus on one thing at a time . So I choose to work on the ev200 contactor . I have done research on it and discoverd it has two little diods on the bottom . And I now know it has to be connected to the keyed switch that is 12v and conected to the posstive of the battery(5), The other diod is connected to negative of battery (5) . I will post results.


----------



## Guest (Aug 5, 2010)

Check your Private Messages.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

You should be able to hear the click of the contactor when it engages if it's wired properly.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Well some good news ! I found the wire that has(yellow) 12v with the key on and no volts with the key off. I disconnected the battery (+) that went to the contactor negative post. Then disconnected the contactor-(kilovacev200 ) possative(+)post that goes to the shunt . I took contactor off the firewall, And on the bottom of the contactor there were two little spades and they were mark red and black  easy. I took the yellow(12v) wire put it on the red spade and then connected the back wire from the negative post of battery (5) to the black spade of contactor. and vola! like magic. I got a strong sounding click!!!! The green light on the alltrax 7245 stays on with the key on and off. Is that right? I have learned more than I would of thought to know about contactors.
The 12 volts is just a power source to make a copper bar move upwards to make contact with both post to complete the circit . 
Now the bad news the car still does not move. So that was not the problem. I will work on the volt meter and amp meter next. they both are peg to bleow 0.
You know the diagram I got from wilderness electric vehicles just plane sucks. it leaves out the small details that are so important.but the one from alltrax.com is soo much better but a bit technical not good for a newbee.


----------



## rillip3 (Jun 19, 2009)

delivery boy said:


> Well some good news ! I found the wire that has(yellow) 12v with the key on and no volts with the key off. I disconnected the battery (+) that went to the contactor negative post. Then disconnected the contactor-(kilovacev200 ) possative(+)post that goes to the shunt . I took contactor off the firewall, And on the bottom of the contactor there were two little spades and they were mark red and black  easy. I took the yellow(12v) wire put it on the red spade and then connected the back wire from the negative post of battery (5) to the black spade of contactor. and vola! like magic. I got a strong sounding click!!!! The green light on the alltrax 7245 stays on with the key on and off. Is that right? I have learned more than I would of thought to know about contactors.
> The 12 volts is just a power source to make a copper bar move upwards to make contact with both post to complete the circit .
> Now the bad news the car still does not move. So that was not the problem. I will work on the volt meter and amp meter next. they both are peg to bleow 0.
> You know the diagram I got from wilderness electric vehicles just plane sucks. it leaves out the small details that are so important.but the one from alltrax.com is soo much better but a bit technical not good for a newbee.



Ok, can you clarify at this point exactly what behavior you're getting? Reading the post, it sounds like you confirmed your contactor is good by directly connecting the battery, and you have connected it to the ignition. Now when you turn the key, you hear the clack of the contactor, yes? But there is still no movement. That could mean a couple of things. 

1)make sure the wires going into the controller are getting pack voltage

2)make sure your pot box is connected properly.

The instrumentation pegging out below 0 means the polarity is reversed. Of course reversing the connections may just make it peg out at the top, or they may work properly. I tend to think the leads are just backward since they're both doing it.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

The green light on the Alltrax should not be on if the contactor is off.


----------



## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> The green light on the Alltrax should not be on if the contactor is off.


won't it stay on if the precharge resistor is on?

The green light goes on when if its got B+ connected and Pin 1 has pack voltage. If there's a precharge, and he's just got the Pin 1 wired as always on, the green light will stay lit.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Yes I do hear and can see the copper bar pop up when I turn the key.
Now how do I test the pack voltage to the alltrax 7245 controller? I have a innova 3310 mulitmeter that I know how to use pretty good now. I just need to know were to put the possitve and neagative test leads and how much volts am looking for it to get. I am going to have to look up what a pot box is.
I am working on the gages now. I have disconnected them and I am going to use the diagram from alltrax to reconnect the amp and volt gages


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Hi Jr, Well thats another bug to add on to the list of abundant bugs. The green light stays on with the key on and off. I will fix gages first then I will work on green light.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Hi Frodus, My B+ is hook up to the shunt that is hooked up to the possative of the contactor.The contactor is hooked up to a independnt battery that also runs the interior of the car. The post (b+) from the alltrax controller also has a 2\0 gage wire going to the s2 of the motor. Slot 1 from the controller has a thin gage wire going to the shunt .


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

frodus said:


> won't it stay on if the precharge resistor is on?
> 
> The green light goes on when if its got B+ connected and Pin 1 has pack voltage. If there's a precharge, and he's just got the Pin 1 wired as always on, the green light will stay lit.


I'll have to check mine, I thought the green light went off with the contactor but it's been a while since I actually looked at it.


----------



## MJ Monterey (Aug 20, 2009)

These folks are also doers. The east bay chapter EAA

http://ebeaa.org/

I would suggest getting in contact with them. See if you can find a mentor. They are centered in the same county as you which will help a lot.

If nothing else I would ask that you have them help you with a safety inspection. I normally have a couple of friends check my stuff out before I hit the go button. It's just a good idea no matter your experience level.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> Hi Frodus, My B+ is hook up to the shunt that is hooked up to the possative of the contactor.The contactor is hooked up to a independnt battery that also runs the interior of the car. The post (b+) from the alltrax controller also has a 2\0 gage wire going to the s2 of the motor. Slot 1 from the controller has a thin gage wire going to the shunt .



ok well if you ran a wire from pin one to the shunt, then are you saying you hooked it to one of the little screws that the gauge hooks too, ore is it hooked up with the 2/0 cable from the contactor?


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> I'll have to check mine, I thought the green light went off with the contactor but it's been a while since I actually looked at it.


Mine goes off with the contactor off, even with the resistor.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Hi JRP3- well I discoverd that the green light does go off when the key is turn off. it just takes about 30 secounds.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

HI bill. No- its a thin wire .Im sorry I havent learn about gage sizes when it comes to wires. That thin wire that is connected to slot 1 of the alltrax7245 .There are a total of 4 slots on the alltrax.(1) goes to the shunt.Now the shunt has to little screw on top of it. thats were i screw it in to. On the side of the shunt it has two big bolts for the 2\0 gage size wire to go to. 
If I may .I can send you a picture . I just need you email. thank you.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

OMG !!!! Mj Monterey- I live less than a mile from chabot collage! 
If the electric car work I would drive it there!ha aha aha . 
I will email them tonight .thank you for that important piece of info!


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> HI bill. No- its a thin wire .Im sorry I havent learn about gage sizes when it comes to wires. That thin wire that is connected to slot 1 of the alltrax7245 .There are a total of 4 slots on the alltrax.(1) goes to the shunt.Now the shunt has to little screw on top of it. thats were i screw it in to. On the side of the shunt it has two big bolts for the 2\0 gage size wire to go to.
> If I may .I can send you a picture . I just need you email. thank you.[/quote
> 
> yes send me a pic, [email protected]. first if you connected pin 1 on the alltrax controller to one of the little screws on the shunt, that is rong. those screws ar for the amp gauge. take the wire that is connected to pin 1 and connect it to the battery + either right there on the shunt or the b+ on the controller, yes connect it with the 2/0 cable. now do you have a throttle pot connected to pins 3 and 4?


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

Ok bill I will take pics tommrow, Its to dark now . But my thottle box- Why do you guys call it a pot?The 05k throttle box is hooked up to slot numbed 2 and numberd 3 of the alltrax7245. Number 4 is not used at all... 
And to add more to the pot. The contactor is an ALLBrIGHT sw180. Its NOT an kilovac ev200


----------



## Guest (Aug 11, 2010)

It is called a pot because it is a potentiometer. Pot for short. Pretty simple. 

Pete


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> Ok bill I will take pics tommrow, Its to dark now . But my thottle box- Why do you guys call it a pot?The 05k throttle box is hooked up to slot numbed 2 and numberd 3 of the alltrax7245. Number 4 is not used at all...
> And to add more to the pot. The contactor is an ALLBrIGHT sw180. Its NOT an kilovac ev200


yes you are right,at least with the throttle, pin 2 and 3 are for the throttle and 4 is half speed reverse(not used).


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

OOOh!! WOOW! I was working on connecting the overnight charger. one wire the possaitve to back set of batterys, battery (4) to be specific. then the nagative to the front battery.battery (6). well the little green light on the overnight charger never turn on. But thats not the biggest problem. I turn on the key and nothing but when i move the throttle lever with my hand the red light turn on the alltrax7245 everytime i move the lever on the throttle box. ! I have never notice that.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

billhac said:


> delivery boy said:
> 
> 
> > HI bill. No- its a thin wire .Im sorry I havent learn about gage sizes when it comes to wires. That thin wire that is connected to slot 1 of the alltrax7245 .There are a total of 4 slots on the alltrax.(1) goes to the shunt.Now the shunt has to little screw on top of it. thats were i screw it in to. On the side of the shunt it has two big bolts for the 2\0 gage size wire to go to.
> ...


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> billhac said:
> 
> 
> > Hi bill - The shunt is connected to the conntactor possaitve post. The other post witch is not marked negative is connected to the possaitve of the battery. The top two screws have both the volt and amp meter hooked to them.
> ...


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> billhac said:
> 
> 
> > Hi bill - The shunt is connected to the conntactor possaitve post. The other post witch is not marked negative is connected to the possaitve of the battery. The top two screws have both the volt and amp meter hooked to them.
> ...


----------



## Guest (Aug 13, 2010)

Volt meter does not connect to the shunt. Only the amp gauge. 

Pete


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

billhac said:


> delivery boy said:
> 
> 
> > as far as connecting the shunt that will work, although it will only give you battery amps that way and not armature amps(big difference) but lets just work on one thing at a time. also depending on the volt meter that you have I dont think it should be connected to the shunt at all, but again first things first, look at the diagram in the previous post, print it out take it to the car and make sure that it is wired just like the diagram then see what happens and post results.
> ...


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> billhac said:
> 
> 
> > k bill ,. I disconneted the wire from slot one from the shunt and connected to the alltraxx b(+) possaitve eye of the alltraxx. And yes it does trurn on the green light of the alltraxx with the key  on and the light goes of when the key goes off .. and I get a red light at full throttle but only at full throttle.
> ...


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> billhac said:
> 
> 
> > k bill ,. I disconneted the wire from slot one from the shunt and connected to the alltraxx b(+) possaitve eye of the alltraxx. And yes it does trurn on the green light of the alltraxx with the key  on and the light goes of when the key goes off .. and I get a red light at full throttle but only at full throttle.
> ...


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

billhac said:


> delivery boy said:
> 
> 
> > it wont matter, not all the batteries in my car are right next to each other. you just need to make sure that the last battery has a positave voltage of 72v or higher, and that the first battery's negative post is connected to the controller B- terminal. as far as your tester, i think that you just have it on the rong setting, if you can take a clear picture of it and send it to me, [email protected] and i will tell you what setting to use, but the picture needs to be clear enough for me to read. now, I think the red light is right to go on on the controller, did you buy the controller new or used, I think that you just need to change some program settings, but lits work out the other stuff first, When you hit the throttle after moving the wire from pin 1, did the motor spin?
> ...


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

billhac said:


> delivery boy said:
> 
> 
> > on the contactor, the + post is just for reference so you know where to put the + wire from the battery, I did not mark it in my drawing, because all of the ones that ive used dont mark the post. the one that is not marked IS not negative, it is for the + from the contactor to the B+ on the controller, so it sounds to me like that is how you have it now. did the amp gauge work at all when you tried the throttle? the battery gauge needs to be connected with its + to B+ of the controller, and the gauge's negative needs to be connected to B- on the controller, so that when the key is off, the gauge does not work, and when you turn on the key it does
> ...


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

did you check out your battery pack, are you getting 72v or higher at the controller?


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

billhac said:


> did you check out your battery pack, are you getting 72v or higher at the controller?


 
No. I am only getting 51volts at the alltraxx controller with the key ON. 
With the key OFF I am only getting 010 at the alltraxx controller.

At the allbright sw180 contactor with the key ON it reads 000 with a blinking negative.
With the key off the contactor reads -44


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> No. I am only getting 51volts at the alltraxx controller with the key ON.
> With the key OFF I am only getting 010 at the alltraxx controller.
> 
> At the allbright sw180 contactor with the key ON it reads 000 with a blinking negative.
> With the key off the contactor reads -44


 
well how are you testing the contactor, you should be putting the red lead on one of the posts with the 2/0 cable connected and put the negative lead on the B- on the controller because you pack negative should only go from the battery - to B- on the controller, then you will read the voltage. now as I said earlier, you have a break someware in the pack, or your pack really needs a recharge, but In any case check the battery wiring to make sure that you have a serise connection on all of the batteries, that should give you at least 72v, right now you dont have that, so check the battery wiring, maybe you have two of the batteries wired rong. here is how to do a serise connection,

battery 1 + to battery 2 - battery 2 + to battery 3 - battery 3 + to battery 4 - battery 4 + to battery 5 - battery 5 + to battery 6 - battery 6 + to the B+ post on the controller, and battery 1 - to the B- post on the controller, check that first. take off all the battery cables and start over just like this, then you will get the 72v at the controller, unless the batteries are dead but i dont think they are.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Check each battery individually for voltage.


----------



## Guest (Aug 16, 2010)

JRP3 said:


> Check each battery individually for voltage.


Yes do that first then connect the batteries and check again. Write down the voltages of each battery. Can you do that? Then post the results. 

Pete


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

gottdi said:


> Yes do that first then connect the batteries and check again. Write down the voltages of each battery. Can you do that? Then post the results.
> 
> Pete


yep, great idea, do it that way.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

billhac said:


> well how are you testing the contactor, you should be putting the red lead on one of the posts with the 2/0 cable connected and put the negative lead on the B- on the controller because you pack negative should only go from the battery - to B- on the controller, then you will read the voltage. now as I said earlier, you have a break someware in the pack, or your pack really needs a recharge, but In any case check the battery wiring to make sure that you have a serise connection on all of the batteries, that should give you at least 72v, right now you dont have that, so check the battery wiring, maybe you have two of the batteries wired rong. here is how to do a serise connection,
> 
> battery 1 + to battery 2 - battery 2 + to battery 3 - battery 3 + to battery 4 - battery 4 + to battery 5 - battery 5 + to battery 6 - battery 6 + to the B+ post on the controller, and battery 1 - to the B- post on the controller, check that first. take off all the battery cables and start over just like this, then you will get the 72v at the controller, unless the batteries are dead but i dont think they are.


I can do that.but what about the contactor? you did not include it.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

delivery boy said:


> I can do that.but what about the contactor? you did not include it.


 
ok sorry bat 6 to + marked post of contactor, nonmarked post of contactor to B+ of controller.


----------



## delivery boy (Jul 22, 2010)

*Thank you to all*

Well I would like to start by saying thank you to all who took the time to read my post an replie with advice . You will all like to know with all your help I was soo close to fixing it. 

#1 . the batterys 1 thru 6 were wired right. it was the on board charger . that was wired wrong . 
#2 Now this one pissed me off. My charger at home was broken. Even though the gage on the charger was saying it was charging but it was not putting out any amps to charge.. So with the over night charger wired worng and only charging 2 batterys . And my charger saying it was charging and it was not. the car never got to 72 volts . And thats why . I have brought A new charger and top off at 12 volts each for a total off 72volts . Im running tests tommrrow . thanks to all of you for you help.


----------



## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

*Re: Thank you to all*



delivery boy said:


> Well I would like to start by saying thank you to all who took the time to read my post an replie with advice . You will all like to know with all your help I was soo close to fixing it.
> 
> #1 . the batterys 1 thru 6 were wired right. it was the on board charger . that was wired wrong .
> #2 Now this one pissed me off. My charger at home was broken. Even though the gage on the charger was saying it was charging but it was not putting out any amps to charge.. So with the over night charger wired worng and only charging 2 batterys . And my charger saying it was charging and it was not. the car never got to 72 volts . And thats why . I have brought A new charger and top off at 12 volts each for a total off 72volts . Im running tests tommrrow . thanks to all of you for you help.


 
thats great have fun


----------

