# $85 Controller = 5 world records....



## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

Whoa. 

Any problems with Spillage? Also, have you used this EV in daily drives or just on the Raceway?


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## Guest (Feb 14, 2009)

I remember seeing this before. I'd like the full schematics of the controllers used. Both the multi volt controller set up and battery wire up and that salt controller. Are you willing to reveal the plans? Some first timers and testers would like to try this setup. I know I would. 

Pete : )


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

It's not mine... I just stumbled over it. There is a "cigarette pack design" schematic on the site if you look. There is likely a link to email the guy too.


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## 280z1975 (Oct 2, 2008)

Is this what you were looking for:


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## Guest (Feb 16, 2009)

280z1975 said:


> Is this what you were looking for:


I am looking for a more detailed version from the guy who built it. I have an email out to him asking for the information. 

Thanks but I already have that.

Pete : )


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## 280z1975 (Oct 2, 2008)

gottdi said:


> I am looking for a more detailed version from the guy who built it. I have an email out to him asking for the information.
> 
> Thanks but I already have that.
> 
> Pete : )


I thought I would post just in case ... You always hear about some brilliant inventor and how they came up with a design on a paper napkin (in this case a manilla folder) ... just never thought I would see an example


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## Qer (May 7, 2008)

280z1975 said:


> You always hear about some brilliant inventor and how they came up with a design on a paper napkin (in this case a manilla folder) ... just never thought I would see an example


This is no new invention, using contactors in different configurations is serious old school. When I was a kid all the trammies in my town were contactor controlled, you could hear them clatter when the driver changed speed. Nowadays they're silicon based with PWM-control because that gives you much more control over the discharge rate and acceleration. Contactor based controllers tend to give a somewhat jerky ride...

If you REALLY want to go the contactor approach, look at the non-PWM controller thread instead. It's a tad more sophisticated for every day driving. This approach sure gives you more or less unlimited current (the only thing limiting the current is the peukert effekt, if you use this approach with Lithium batteries you'll blow the pack) but the lowest battery pair will be drained first so your range will be much shorter than with that non-PWM controller or, indeed, a PWM-controller.

If you want to go the English mile as fast as you possibly can, a good ol' short circuit is pretty unbeatable provided you run on lead acid, of course. If you want to commute to work and back you might want to be able to moderate the acceleration a bit finer...


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## Guest (Feb 16, 2009)

I know it's old skool but I was just looking for a clean diagram that is perfectly clear on how to set it up so any one can look at it and repeat it with full success. I have been looking at the non PWM stuff but still don't have a clue. I sorta understand the thinking but not fully and I see no examples. I have not read the whole thread yet. I guess I should. I mostly want a good two speed contactor setup like was used for the old Kaylor VW Electric Car Kit. It used a 72 volt pack split in two and used a single contactor and a double one and it would allow two packs in parallel for 36 volts (low speed) and then 72 volts in series (high speed). The set up was designed to drain the pack evenly and to allow you to charge the pack as a 72 volt pack and to allow regen with the military starter/generator. That is what I want but I'd like it set up for three speeds instead of two or maybe set up with 4 speeds instead of two. 

Pete : )


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## ga2500ev (Apr 20, 2008)

gottdi said:


> I know it's old skool but I was just looking for a clean diagram that is perfectly clear on how to set it up so any one can look at it and repeat it with full success. I have been looking at the non PWM stuff but still don't have a clue. I sorta understand the thinking but not fully and I see no examples. I have not read the whole thread yet. I guess I should. I mostly want a good two speed contactor setup like was used for the old Kaylor VW Electric Car Kit. It used a 72 volt pack split in two and used a single contactor and a double one and it would allow two packs in parallel for 36 volts (low speed) and then 72 volts in series (high speed). The set up was designed to drain the pack evenly and to allow you to charge the pack as a 72 volt pack and to allow regen with the military starter/generator. That is what I want but I'd like it set up for three speeds instead of two or maybe set up with 4 speeds instead of two.
> Pete : )


That's what we're talking about over in the non PWM thread. Throw in a current limiting resistor that can be switched out and you're just about set. A rectactor replaces the parallel switches with diodes that conduct in parallel mode and are switched out in serial mode.

Charging is somewhat a non issue because you can always use individual chargers as needed.

I'll attach an image. Lee Hart's thread is here:

http://www.repp.org/discussion/ev/200110/msg00839.html

This schematic is for a multistep rectactor for a shunt wound motor. You can kill the s5 switch for the field weakening if you have a series wound motor. Without S5 there are several speeds:

Off: All switches off.
Slow: S1 (main) only. lowest voltage with slow resistor enabled.
All parallel quarter voltage: S1+S2, removes the slow resistor
Half voltage: S1+S2+S3
3/4 voltage:Half + S4A or S4B can be enabled separately.
Full voltage: All switches on.

Use a 24V module and you can top out at 96V for example.
You can also save a switch by killing the 3/4 level and using a DPDT contactor for S4A and S4B.

So with 6 diodes and 4 contactors you can get 4 speeds.

ga2500ev


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## Qer (May 7, 2008)

gottdi said:


> I know it's old skool


Nothing wrong with old school if you can live with the limitations. In this case the limitations are bad range (since the packs are discharged unevenly) and only four speeds. No prob for a drag racing strip, bigger prob if you're trying to build a daily commuting car.



gottdi said:


> I have been looking at the non PWM stuff but still don't have a clue. I sorta understand the thinking but not fully and I see no examples. I have not read the whole thread yet. I guess I should.


I'd still recommend that one since it at least discharge the pack evenly, which this one doesn't.

I'd still say that a good (ie not a low quality model) PWM-controller is the best, but on the other hand I guess a well built contactor controller beats an el cheapo PWM-controller any day. It's no fun when the magic smoke comes out and you're stranded with a dead EV...


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

I was actually considering a non-PWM Controller as a backup device. Keep the wires properly marked, a Contactor or Rectactor Controller and diagram in well-padded box in the EV-in case of Magic Smoke, you grab the inexpensive backup and some tools, take twenty minutes or less and be back on your way! While there may be performance differences, you could still drive your EV while waiting for your PWM to get back from the dealer.


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

order99 said:


> I was actually considering a non-PWM Controller as a backup device. Keep the wires properly marked, a Contactor or Rectactor Controller and diagram in well-padded box in the EV-in case of Magic Smoke, you grab the inexpensive backup and some tools, take twenty minutes or less and be back on your way! While there may be performance differences, you could still drive your EV while waiting for your PWM to get back from the dealer.


This actually makes a lot of sense. I hope I don't even need such a thing....but..... I get the feeling that in order get through the infant mortality stage... it might kinda feel like driving without a spare tire when you know you are going through a junk yard........


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## judebert (Apr 16, 2008)

Lee Hart has lots of old-school knowledge. I linked to his listing of this information when someone wanted a very high-voltage controller.

There is one caution: you're electrolyzing salt water here. You could create chlorine gas, which is both corrosive and toxic.


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