# 8" hitachi for first build?



## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Historically, that will result in a slightly underpowered car, but it may be satisfactory in a brat.


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## Wikstrom (10 mo ago)

Slight underpower is not a big problem, i was thinking max 60mph speed.
Engine in my brat would need full bearing and oilpump restauration and gasoline in Finland cost 9.5$/gal.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

When people say forklift motor, they are not talking about the pump motor.

I doubt you are going to get 30mph with an 8kW at 15 minute rating in a Brat. That motor would work in a golf cart and you know how heavy they are and how fast they go.

Underpower is a huge problem when the motor is smoking from the load.

No - you need to find a bigger motor, IMO. At least 30kW continuous if you're not going to climb any hills, 60kW continuous rated if you are. Minimum.


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## Wikstrom (10 mo ago)

Okay, i was thinking that hitachi would be stronger than average 8".
Thanks for your advice, i'll stop dreaming and find at least 9" drive motor.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

I sort of agree with remy_martian - that motor looks too small and is for a pump

But the "ratings" on forklift motors are silly - mine is "rated" at 10 kW - and it blasts up any hill I have ever seen

A better way of looking at forklift motors is the weight - mine is 105 kg
You need something above about 70 kg


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## Wikstrom (10 mo ago)

Can someone regodnice this, series or something
























Else? Connection ports say F1 FF A A2


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Separately excited (SEPEX) DC motor, 10kW. F is field, A is armature.

You seem to be stuck around 10kW for some reason, after being informed 8kW was too small for a car.

As Duncan said...if there isn't at least 70kg of iron in it, it's too small. I doubt you have half that there.

No free lunch - power costs money and you have to cross over the line of minimum power to run your car past walking speeds.


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## Wikstrom (10 mo ago)

This motor is 11" and 90 kg. How difficult it is to use sepex motor?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

SEPEX controller


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## Wikstrom (10 mo ago)

Thanks.


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## lj516 (Mar 11, 2020)

remy_martian said:


> SEPEX controller


NOT SEPEX! Remy, why are you answering questions you know nothing about? 
Series wound motor, like most forklift motors, capable of 150v and more than enough for anything short of a bus. Typically, a 9" motor was used on s10 lead acid EV conversions back in the day (5000lbs), an 11" will have double the torque of the 9". 

Series motors are wired like in the picture, and need a brushed dc motor controller.









I mean, is it just laziness or are you just getting off from trying to bully people on here?


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## floydr (Jun 21, 2021)

Aren't series motors connection usually mark S1 S2 A1 A2?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

lj516 said:


> NOT SEPEX! Remy, why are you answering questions you know nothing about?
> Series wound motor, like most forklift motors, capable of 150v and more than enough for anything short of a bus. Typically, a 9" motor was used on s10 lead acid EV conversions back in the day (5000lbs), an 11" will have double the torque of the 9".
> 
> Series motors are wired like in the picture, and need a brushed dc motor controller.
> ...


How did "bully" crawl into this conversation?

The motor has two field connections and two armature connections.

You connected those in series externally making it a series motor. Fine.

Are they connected internally as a series motor? - that would mean 3 external terminals, even 2 terminals (starter motor or the pic I've attached here from this thread), not 4.

With two dedicated field terminals and two dedicated armature terminals you can make yourself a series motor. You can also connect them to make a shunt motor. But you can also separately excite them and get regen....

So, did I miss that this motor has two terminals that are shorted internally? In all my efforts in this thread to be a bully, maybe, but you haven't shown it....all you did was connect those external terminals to make a series motor (it can also be connected shunt) and declare it needs a brushed controller. OK...with how you externally strapped the motor, why would I disagree?


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

I will add here: there's a spline connection on the shaft which generally means pump motor with those caveats and annoying issues.

A light google search says this series is used on the hydraulics of John Deere tractors.

If you are a fan of user MAJOR from back when, the F1 FF A A2 indicates a sepex wiring so once again Remy is correct (as expected) they marked as such for mechanic aid so the motor turns correctly when installed.

You can use a 9" and have it rewound and hotrodded to do what an ADC 9" does, but I believe it would be cheaper to just buy the ADC.
I have no dogs in this fight, but some research in the high torque electric motor threads would prove helpful to you.

Finally: measure the winding resistance. If one has less than the other it's sepex. You CAN wire it series but it will burn out the field in short order.


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## Wikstrom (10 mo ago)

Thank you for advice.

Last pictures i posted are from other hitachi motor that I found later. 

It is 11" wide and 90kg heavy with 1" male saft but i can't go to check it out because it is so far away.

It has 4 connection lugs stated f1 f2 a1 a2 or something like that and i hoped that someone could recognize it.

Hard to tell from the pictures i got from seller but i think it is not series type.

I would like to use basic motor with subaru brat and keep the budget low.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Big motor is still a sepex. There are controllers that will work but they will either be new manufacture for higher voltage or difficult to reconfigure surplus that may nowadays be unsupported. Both styles will be non optimum for inexpensive drop in. You can excite the field manually and use a standard controller on the armature but that is an experiment also.


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