# How to use this forklift control panel



## bazou (Sep 11, 2009)

Anyone? I've been stuck here for months and a "forget about using any parts in there" would be a start.

Thanks!


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

bazou said:


> Anyone? I've been stuck here for months and a "forget about using any parts in there" would be a start.


Hey,

It is in pretty rough shape. And I don't see anybody jumping in with advice. I can't tell you what half the parts are. Sorry, I'm no help. Might be better off looking for something else 

major


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## bazou (Sep 11, 2009)

major said:


> Hey,
> 
> It is in pretty rough shape. And I don't see anybody jumping in with advice. I can't tell you what half the parts are. Sorry, I'm no help. Might be better off looking for something else
> 
> major


hey major,

Thanks for having a look. 

One of my two motors is series wound, so I could probably just get a golf cart controller. 

It's the sepex motor I'm worried about : I remember reading they need a specific controller, or the new controller to be tuned. The problem is that I have no idea *what* to tune it to...


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

What you've got there is an scr controller with reversing contactors for the main motor. To be honest even if you got it working it would be useless in an ev. If money is tight have a look at the open source controller. I'm using my own version very well now for a few months. It barely even gets warm.


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## bazou (Sep 11, 2009)

jackbauer said:


> What you've got there is an scr controller with reversing contactors for the main motor. To be honest even if you got it working it would be useless in an ev. If money is tight have a look at the open source controller. I'm using my own version very well now for a few months. It barely even gets warm.


Thanks! I'll have a look at this open source controller.

Anything worth scavenging on my controller? 

Are #3 (pink things) contactors?

Cheers


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

I'd hang on to it for parts. At least until your up and running. Only problem with the contactors is the coils will be designed to run on the original forklift battery voltage eg 48v.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

jackbauer said:


> I'd hang on to it for parts. At least until your up and running. Only problem with the contactors is the coils will be designed to run on the original forklift battery voltage eg 48v.


Those would be good for me on my tractor project as it would save me having 12v circuits but shipping probably wouldn't be worth while.


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## bazou (Sep 11, 2009)

Woodsmith said:


> Those would be good for me on my tractor project as it would save me having 12v circuits but shipping probably wouldn't be worth while.


The plan is actually to convert an old diesel tractor to diesel.

I dont think shipping would be worthwhile, but I'm wondering what your idea is, because it probbly could be useful to my project 

cheers


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## few2many (Jun 23, 2009)

bazou said:


> The plan is actually to convert an old diesel tractor to diesel.


Is there a kit for that conversion?


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## bazou (Sep 11, 2009)

few2many said:


> Is there a kit for that conversion?


lol
I guess I needed sleep


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

bazou said:


> The plan is actually to convert an old diesel tractor to diesel.
> 
> I dont think shipping would be worthwhile, but I'm wondering what your idea is, because it probbly could be useful to my project
> 
> cheers


Diesel to diesel or diesel to electric?

I was just thinking, on my project, of having everything on 48v so that all the contactor coils would run on pack voltage. However, that wouldn't work either as the Curtis I am using will control the contactor coils with 12v anyway.
However, if it didn't then I could have had all the motor and contactors running from pack voltage and nothing running from 12v as there would be no real need for car type accessories.
I could even run lighting by using pairs of 24v bulbs in series.

Oh well, back to having 48v and 12v.


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Bazou

If you are willing to build the open source controller, here is what you can do for your sepex motor - BTW it will work for everyone with a sepex motor:

Build 2 versions of the open source controller - Nr. 1 will be as big as you want for the Armature Winding - this will carry your main motor current and will have to be sized accordingly.

Nr. 2 will need to control your Field, so need to be sized for the maximum current quoted for your motor field. If your motor have current ratings on a nameplate, the field current will be the *smaller* of the 2 currents. The field *Voltage* will be either pack voltage of the original installation, or, most likely in your case, somewhat lower. Curtis controllers deliver at most 60 amps for a field, so I don't think you need to go for higher.

After you have built your 2 controllers, set controller nr.2 so that it will deliver your required field voltage. If you know how to program the controller, you can play around with field weakening. For your own safety, you need interlocking between the 2 controllers so that, if you experience *any* kind of field failure, you can shut down the nr.1 controller.

Enjoy the build 

Dawid


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## bazou (Sep 11, 2009)

DawidvC said:


> Bazou
> 
> If you are willing to build the open source controller, here is what you can do for your sepex motor - BTW it will work for everyone with a sepex motor:
> 
> ...


Very good post, I'll refer to it later on! cheers


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