# Pinto Hyper9HV Conversion



## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

Ok, here is a simple schematic I made showing the HV circuit and some of the 12v system








And here is the full schematic with all control wiring








Things got little crowded but fit it all on there. My first time making schematics for anything really. Let me know if you see any glaring mistakes. Thanks!
-Sauce


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

The schematics look really good for a first attempt. 

There's one area that has me puzzled:
Why is the high voltage power to the motor controller fused on only the negative side? Why is the high voltage power between the charger/DC-DC and the battery fused on on the positive side (in the first diagram) or not at all (in the second diagram)? Why not fuse the total current in/out of the battery, at the battery?


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

brian_ said:


> The schematics look really good for a first attempt.
> 
> There's one area that has me puzzled:
> Why is the high voltage power to the motor controller fused on only the negative side? Why is the high voltage power between the charger/DC-DC and the battery fused on on the positive side (in the first diagram) or not at all (in the second diagram)? Why not fuse the total current in/out of the battery, at the battery?


I did forget the charger fuse in the 2nd diagram! Thank you! As for single sided fusing I used EV West's generic schematic as a starting point, and they only fused the negative side (and battery box midpoint), so I don't have a good answer. ( https://evwest.com/support/Hyper 9 Kit Schematic.pdf )


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

sauce504 said:


> As for single sided fusing I used EV West's generic schematic as a starting point, and they only fused the negative side (and battery box midpoint), so I don't have a good answer. ( https://evwest.com/support/Hyper 9 Kit Schematic.pdf )


In the diagram from EV West, the main battery fuse passes all of the current flowing through the battery (as does the current-measuring shunt), not bypassed for the charger. And that fuse is adjacent to the battery, as it should be.

The charger gets its own fuse, located close to the charger as it should be for fault protection when the charger is the source, presumably lower-rated because the charger wiring is smaller gauge than the wiring between the battery and the controller. I don't know why they chose to fuse positive in one case and negative in the other - I think typical production EV practice is to fuse both sides at the battery.


I just noticed that in the first diagram your current sensor (labelled "Hall sensor") only measures current to the controller - it misses charger and DC-DC current, which probably won't work properly for the BMS. Also, it's in the positive side in both diagrams, which is fine as long as that's okay with the sensor and with the BMS.


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

brian_ said:


> In the diagram from EV West, the main battery fuse passes all of the current flowing through the battery (as does the current-measuring shunt), not bypassed for the charger. And that fuse is adjacent to the battery, as it should be.
> 
> The charger gets its own fuse, located close to the charger as it should be for fault protection when the charger is the source, presumably lower-rated because the charger wiring is smaller gauge than the wiring between the battery and the controller. I don't know why they chose to fuse positive in one case and negative in the other - I think typical production EV practice is to fuse both sides at the battery.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input. I did forget to put the charger HV+ fuse in the second diagram. And I think I understand what you're saying about the battery fuse and see I should re-route the charger negative side to the other side of the fuse? The dilithium BMS Display manual states to put the hall sensor on the battery+ side, I'll try to make it's placement more clear in the second diagram (things were getting crowded). Thanks again for the input!


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## wjbitner (Apr 5, 2010)

sauce504 said:


> Thanks for the input. I did forget to put the charger HV+ fuse in the second diagram. And I think I understand what you're saying about the battery fuse and see I should re-route the charger negative side to the other side of the fuse? The dilithium BMS Display manual states to put the hall sensor on the battery+ side, I'll try to make it's placement more clear in the second diagram (things were getting crowded). Thanks again for the input!


Out of curiosity, what tool did you use to draw the schematic?
Thanks, Bill


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## DansEVhobby (Jun 13, 2021)

When you run a lightened flywheel is that a modification to the original or do you buy a lighter one?


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

sauce504 said:


> I did forget to put the charger HV+ fuse in the second diagram. And I think I understand what you're saying about the battery fuse and see I should re-route the charger negative side to the other side of the fuse?


Yes, that would make sense.



sauce504 said:


> The dilithium BMS Display manual states to put the hall sensor on the battery+ side...


You're good then.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

DansEVhobby said:


> When you run a lightened flywheel is that a modification to the original or do you buy a lighter one?


Either way is possible. I had the flywheel in my race-prepared Honda lightened (to about half of its original weight) by turning on a lathe to remove material; you can also buy lighter flywheels, often made of aluminum rather than steel (or cast iron).

Since the starter motor is no longer needed, the ring gear on the flywheel is also not needed; because it is at the outer edge, it adds more unwanted inertia than the same mass of metal closer to the shaft. Some of them are just pressed on and can be removed; others are integral to the flywheel and would need to be machined of (typically on a lathe).


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

wjbitner said:


> Out of curiosity, what tool did you use to draw the schematic?
> Thanks, Bill


Keynote. It draws shapes and lines and was free on my iMac.


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

DansEVhobby said:


> When you run a lightened flywheel is that a modification to the original or do you buy a lighter one?


I bought this one: 2.0/2.3 Aluminum Flywheel RWA 1628A


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

Ok, revision 2:


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## evric (Oct 26, 2008)

Hi,
I have just installed the Hyper 9HV in my Holden Barina EV conversion. Netgain now recommend that between the B+Precharge terminal on the Controller and the Main Contactor +A1, you place a fuse and another smaller contactor (HV relay) with the new contactor controlled by the Keyswitch - this is in REV09 of the new Hyper9 Instruction Manual (all except the bit about "controlled by the Keyswitch" - I had to work that out for myself.
If you have any questions along the way - just ask.


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

ICE is out! Gas tank and exhaust are out. Gotta clean a bit then get some transmission/motor mounts fabricated before attaching the hyper9.


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

Hyper9 is bolted to the transmission! Project is feeling real now! My friend is gonna fabricate some mounts and I’m gonna keep cleaning.


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

So in the last ten months I moved across the country to New Orleans (my hometown) and this got put on hold. Well I’ve finally had some time and money and brought it down to Crystal River Florida to get help from Green Shed Converions in completing it. Here’s some pics from the first day.


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

A few more pics from more work days. Battery box is in.



















Controller and charger mounted up front


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)




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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Imo, needs a few batt modules in the motor bay


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

Got it running and charging. Was a bit of a rush job as I was running out of time at Green Shed. Some wires under the hood will need some better organization and looming, but it works! Mostly. Biggest issue is that the Dilithium BMS display amp meter seems to be off by a factor of ten when motor is drawing current. While charging it seems accurate though. I goobered up the connector on the amp sensor a little, and have ordered another from thunderstruck. Hope that sorts out the issue.


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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)




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## sauce504 (Jul 25, 2021)

We’ll hit my first real issue. It seems that one of my bolt modules has a single bad cell. When charging it gets much higher than other cells and when I drop below 3.6 volts (nominal voltage) it becomes depleted much quicker. Luckily I have two extra modules in storage and I’m probably just going to have to swap it out. 
In this photo It is c7


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Maybe balance them first, preferably bottom balance. Could be why they got recalled


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## blackterminal (Oct 14, 2021)

A cool car ive never seen. You should cover the HV output terminals on your controller.


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