# Charger wire connection/integration



## Peterhase (Mar 26, 2012)

I have a simple detail question concerning the integration of the charger into the battery circuit. Which type of connections are usually used herefore 
I am thinking of using "Dinse" welding-wire connectors for 70mm² (= 2/0) welding cable within a safe housing/box; there a T-connectors available, see image.
Alternatively I found wago cage clamps for up to 95mm² cables, 2 of them would need to be connected via a bridge to have a T-junction; to be mounted on a din rail also in a housing enclosure.

I am sure there might be more elegant solutions since the charger cables are usually thinner than the battery circuit cables - please let me know!


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

I use ring terminals on battery posts or similar.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Why is this in the Wiki?


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## Peterhase (Mar 26, 2012)

sorry- obviously I forgot how to start new article... just used the NuWiki-button/function top left...


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## Peterhase (Mar 26, 2012)

I guess I found a nice, simple, compact & safe solution: a cast resin t-joint, available from tyco (as with the kilovacs), 3M, Cellpack and others.

There is a simple clamp inside and then the whole housing is filled with resin after the cables were inserted and connected - this solution is also water and expolsion resistant.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Simple? Looks great from a vendor's viewpoint. Ever need to change anything? Just cut it all and buy new!


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

Ziggythewiz said:


> Simple? Looks great from a vendor's viewpoint. Ever need to change anything? Just cut it all and buy new!


I agree. 

Also , if the connection is malfunctioning you have no way to verify it until too late.

It's looking like a nice connector but I don't believe it's automotive grade, meaning : the vibrations may affect it.


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## Peterhase (Mar 26, 2012)

I get your point. 
From house building I know these connections are used for earth cables in harsh environments also underneath roads (vibrations)- so they are quite safe once they work (test connection before filling in the resin). The resin hardens out and the cables and connections stay in place and tight - like being welded together... actually forever.
see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AweXOKI9xLA&feature=player_embedded

True, for changes the ends have to be cut! But replacement is cheap (ca. Eur 20), far less expensive than the other connectors I mentioned above (ca. Eur 60 each) and in my case they also would need an additional water-proof box/housing ip65 due to TÜV requirements here (ca. Eur 50 each + cable glands + DIN Rail in case of the wago cage clamp connector). 
Size and space for such connection-boxes is also an issue... and finding a place/wall in the trunk to mount them (the resin joints can hang freely).
But- as I said, I am open for alternative suggestions.


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## skooler (Mar 26, 2011)

I use basic terminal lugs. My controller connects to the most positive battery terminal and the negative to a fuseholder (other side is neg pack terminal) my DCDC converter and controller just have their own lugs to the same places, as does my volt meter.

Just ensure that the lug for the cable/component that drawers the most current is on the bottom, don't let the current travel through nuts, washers etc.

Simples


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## Peterhase (Mar 26, 2012)

Just another question,

I plan a second KILOVAC LEV 200 on the minus-side, see image.
Is it possible to connect the charger (in my case Zivan SG6) as well as the battery circuit on one pole of the KILOVAC via ring-lugs...?

Any problems or interfearances to be expected?

It would save cost and space, only need for one t-junction at front end (controller) then.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

My charging solution is simple. 

The charger POS wire goes directly to the BATT side on my
main cut off switch, with an 8GA ring terminal-(crimped and 
soldered). It needed to be after my ZEVA SOC sensor. That 
way I can charge with the pack shut off on the car. 

The NEG charger wire goes to the controller NEG terminal 
(Or pack NEG terminal). Both charger wires are 8Ga and 
carry 15 amps, so do not need to be so heavy duty.

The Charger came with a pair of Anderson connectors, 
which I retained to easily remove the charger from the 
car if necessary.

Miz


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Peterhase said:


> Is it possible to connect the charger (in my case Zivan SG6) as well as the battery circuit on one pole of the KILOVAC via ring-lugs...?


Of course. As long as your connectors fit the post you're fine. Just be sure the contactor is in the correct orientation for the high current connections as that may affect power cutting ability while under load.


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## Peterhase (Mar 26, 2012)

Thanks for the good advice, I love this forum- great help!
@ mizlplix: I cannot connect it to the controller, I will use an EBOX from german E-car-tech. It houses the controller, dc/dc converter, contractor, fuses etc. and only has a limted number of cable inlets, see image.
Would not get the charger wire in.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

WOW! That is a nice box. You might just ask E-car if they could supply an additional fitting and suggest a location, maybe? 

The other inline fitting is OK too, I just like to eliminate extra things where ever possible. 

Just a thought.

miz


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## Peterhase (Mar 26, 2012)

As far as I know the box is produced by Eve in Italy http://www.electro-vehicles.eu/ but the Italians sell it more expensive (they have 2 sizes & several configurations) http://www.electro-vehicles.eu/public/file/PowerpAC_Scheda.pdf . E-Car-Tech is the German importer for curtis devices and they adapt the box for their controllers. It is Eur 3500 (+tax) incl. 1238-7601 curtis 650A Controller (sells for Eur 2200), 360W dc/dc converter, albright contractor, fuses, etc. They also have specific harnesses.
Yes- I will ask them for an additional inlet... lets see.


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