# trans- motor adapter



## jaspersk (Jun 26, 2008)

You haven't missed anything. Make certain that the motor is centered as precisely as possible or you risk early failure of the shaft bearing in the transmission, vibrations, and/or coupling failure. Also, while I have heard folks say that the coupling does not need to be machine balanced, I have also read stories of "wobbling" couplings causing really bad vibrations so make sure your coupling has very little runout, is relatively balanced, and is placed perfectly centered on the motor shaft. If you are using a tapered bushing, tighten the bolts slowly one at a time. I also used some thread lock on the coupling bolts to make sure they wouldn't come loose.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

I might not be understanding your plan perfectly, but it sounds like you are going to make crucial measurements off of the gasket? There seems to be 2 approaches: Measure everything super accurately, and machine super accurately vs. put the motor and tranny together, and tap with a hammer (and keep cycling the clutch) until vibration is a minimum, and then lock it down. Measurements off a gasket won't be accurate enough for the "measure super accurately" approach.


lou-ace said:


> Ok so the ICE is removed, ( 1995 Mazda b2300 truck) and now I have to move on the the trans-motor adapter and coupling. this appears really easy! luckily the gaskit remained intact ( between the ICE and trans), I plan to use this as a template for my adapter plate,it marks the concentric center beautifully, for the mounting, and cut it into 1" aluminum, next it seems that it should be a simple matter of measuring distances and machining the splined to keyed connector, I'm going direct drive so no clutch or flywheel, and since my two interfaces are static I can see no reason for a pilot bearing. Mount, couple and support motor the motor seem to be the sequence to me. have I got this right?


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

DavidDymaxion said:


> I might not be understanding your plan perfectly, but it sounds like you are going to make crucial measurements off of the gasket? There seems to be 2 approaches: Measure everything super accurately, and machine super accurately vs. put the motor and tranny together, and tap with a hammer (and keep cycling the clutch) until vibration is a minimum, and then lock it down. Measurements off a gasket won't be accurate enough for the "measure super accurately" approach.


you might also want to consider, for weight and cost, using a 1/2" alum plate for the adapter and a smaller 1/2" alum plate to bolt to the motor face - instead of one big expensive 1" plate. That's what I did and as far as positioning - I made both plates and attached them to each part (tranny and motor) then put the coupler on the motor shaft, slid it over the tranny shaft and just had the motor sitting with its plate on top of the tranny adapter plate vertically... then held the motor while I gave it juice from a 12v batt and adjusted it until there was no vibration. Then I scored the exact placement of the motor plate on the adapter plate, disassembled, put the plated back together in that exact spot, clamped together and drilled four holes to bolt the two plates together. 2500 miles and not a vibration in sight.. worked great.

oh, forgot a step.. cut a large enough hole in the (approximate) center of the adapter plate for the motor shaft, coupler and bolt heads on the motor plate to fit inside and still have some wiggle room for adjustment.


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