# Warp Drive Controller Shakes Car



## Inframan (Jan 30, 2011)

The car has done this every once in a while and now for some reason it has just gotten worse. It happens when I just take off and I am passing 25 mph. The motor will almost stutter that is turn on and off violently as though the whole drivetrain is bouncing up and down. I thought about it for a while and came to the conclusion that it couldn't be anything other than the motor controller  So I call up Netgain and ask them and they said that when the motor controller detects interference it shuts off and then it doesn't detect it anymore and then turns back on again and it does so at a rapid pace causing the violent shake, they called it the "Hiccup" problem. Just when it seemed like the car was driveable with additional impovements and extra work I put into it now I have to take out the controller again drain the anti freeze and pay for shipping there and hopefully there won't be anymore problems with the motor controller. I feel that I have already paid too much for the motor controller that has no HV option, I was forced into buying their peddle and the interface module was overly priced for what it was it just seems rotten that I have to take the extra time to take it out and pay for shipping there for something that is their problem to begin with.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

sorry to hear about that, can you give us more details on your setup?

If it is electrical interference, and hey im no electronics expert, did you try to find the sources of the interference nearby the controller?


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## rochesterricer (Jan 5, 2011)

Slightly OT: what do you mean there is no HV option? I thought the high end version went to either 360 or 450 volts.


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## cruisin (Jun 3, 2009)

Inframan said:


> The car has done this every once in a while and now for some reason it has just gotten worse. It happens when I just take off and I am passing 25 mph. The motor will almost stutter that is turn on and off violently as though the whole drivetrain is bouncing up and down. I thought about it for a while and came to the conclusion that it couldn't be anything other than the motor controller  So I call up Netgain and ask them and they said that when the motor controller detects interference it shuts off and then it doesn't detect it anymore and then turns back on again and it does so at a rapid pace causing the violent shake, they called it the "Hiccup" problem. Just when it seemed like the car was driveable with additional impovements and extra work I put into it now I have to take out the controller again drain the anti freeze and pay for shipping there and hopefully there won't be anymore problems with the motor controller. I feel that I have already paid too much for the motor controller that has no HV option, I was forced into buying their peddle and the interface module was overly priced for what it was it just seems rotten that I have to take the extra time to take it out and pay for shipping there for something that is their problem to begin with.


There may now be a few who will understand once and for all why I recommend the AC-50. I have been through the DC problems with my customers and am glad that most have gone away with the AC conversions. Curtis tells me that the few 1838 controllers returned under warranty were because of installer error in the wiring of the controller. cant beat that with a stick.


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## Inframan (Jan 30, 2011)

rochesterricer said:


> Slightly OT: what do you mean there is no HV option? I thought the high end version went to either 360 or 450 volts.


I mean Zilla, if I am remembering correctly, was 2200 for a 300 volt plus controller this controller if you want the HV option is 2800. A palm pilot is about 60 bucks their interface module is about 300 and although you are given an option of hall effect you are not forced into buying a pedal from Zilla
for 130 bucks. So we are talking about 900 more dollars for this controller vs. the old Zilla.


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## Inframan (Jan 30, 2011)

Bowser330 said:


> sorry to hear about that, can you give us more details on your setup?
> 
> If it is electrical interference, and hey im no electronics expert, did you try to find the sources of the interference nearby the controller?


The only thing electrical near the motor that I have is the computer cooling pump. But Netgain said that the HV wires and the motor are mainly what cause interference since my motor is about 7 inches away from the controller the only wire that could be causing it is the negative cable coming from the batteries mounted under the hood I am going to wrap it in a shield on my way to the shop see if that does anything. The wire itself is pretty much impossible to reroute b/c either way I go with it it runs into LV wires.


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## Inframan (Jan 30, 2011)

Shielding of the wire made absolutely no difference and examining it further I don't see how it could because the negative post of the controller and the threaded block that goes down to the transistor is not even an inch from the low voltage wires. I'll just have to wait to see if the problem is remedied when I get it back...


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

I'm sorry you're going through all of this, and I know i speak for all the potential warp-drive customers when i say, thank you for bringing this public and to the attention of the community. I hope it all works out.


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## CroDriver (Jan 8, 2009)

A DC motor/controller combo is making a ton of noise so the controller itself is probably generating the interference which is causing the problems


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## ngcontrols (Nov 4, 2009)

Inframan said:


> they called it the "Hiccup" problem. Just when it seemed like the car was driveable with additional impovements and extra work I put into it now I have to take out the controller again drain the anti freeze and pay for shipping there and hopefully there won't be anymore problems with the motor controller. I feel that I have already paid too much for the motor controller that has no HV option, I was forced into buying their peddle and the interface module was overly priced for what it was it just seems rotten that I have to take the extra time to take it out and pay for shipping there for something that is their problem to begin with.


Unfortunately, this "Hiccup" problem didn't manifest itself until quite a few units were in the field. We understand it well now and have a very reliable solution. I apologize in advance if anyone else ends up experiencing this, and we'll get it taken care of right away. The good news is all units since about March have shipped with the modified circuitry that is resilient to the noise that causes the brief shutdown when communications are interrupted between the onboard microcontrollers.

Inframan - to help give some consolation for your troubles, we'll set your controller up for the 260V option at no extra charge. 

While I understand the frustration in having to purchase our Interface Module, it is a much easier and feature-rich device than the Palm IIIe - not to mention the ability to scale to integration with other CANbus devices. We are in the testing phases of a Smartphone App that can be used instead of the IM. It will only require purchasing a relatively low cost CANbus to BlueTooth adapter, and will again allow for integration with any CANbus-enabled hardware that is produced.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

ngcontrols said:


> Unfortunately, this "Hiccup" problem didn't manifest itself until quite a few units were in the field. We understand it well now and have a very reliable solution. I apologize in advance if anyone else ends up experiencing this, and we'll get it taken care of right away. The good news is all units since about March have shipped with the modified circuitry that is resilient to the noise that causes the brief shutdown when communications are interrupted between the onboard microcontrollers.
> 
> Inframan - to help give some consolation for your troubles, we'll set your controller up for the 260V option at no extra charge.
> 
> While I understand the frustration in having to purchase our Interface Module, it is a much easier and feature-rich device than the Palm IIIe - not to mention the ability to scale to integration with other CANbus devices. We are in the testing phases of a Smartphone App that can be used instead of the IM. It will only require purchasing a relatively low cost CANbus to BlueTooth adapter, and will again allow for integration with any CANbus-enabled hardware that is produced.


Great post, and great service, Inframan, keep us updated!


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## Inframan (Jan 30, 2011)

A voltage upgrade is a fair and decent thing of you guys to do and does show that your company cares and I thank you for that. 



> Great post, and great service, Inframan, keep us updated!


Unfortunately it might be a while I just checked the tracking info and it says the package is still here in my town  The post office wanted like 60 bucks to ship it 2 day delivery and I wasn't havin' it but at the rate its going its probably going to be there next week!


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## dladd (Jun 1, 2011)

Any closure on this? Did the fix work?


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## ngcontrols (Nov 4, 2009)

dladd said:


> Any closure on this? Did the fix work?


We haven't heard anything back at this point. Usually no news is good news. So hopefully he has the controller by now and it is working well.


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## Dominik77 (Sep 20, 2011)

*I need controller alltrax 7245*

Hi my name is Dominik I come from Poland in Europe. I build Electric car
I need controller Alltrax 7245. I have motor 30kW DC LEM. Maybe do you know who have controller alltrax 7245 to sell if yes please tell ok


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## Inframan (Jan 30, 2011)

Yes everything turned out fine Netgain solved the problem and gave me a voltage upgrade for free and now I am able to run 325 volts The reason I have not posted in a while is that I have been so busy with other conversions like my friends triumph gt6 project and a go kart. Thanks Netgain!


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

Great to hear Netgain Controls came through in the end for you, and threw in a bonus voltage upgrade on top of it!

Can you give us more information on your conversion, all we know is that you have a WarpDrive controller with 325V

Motor:
Controller: WarpDrive 325V ____A
Donor Car:
Batteries:


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