# Warp 9 motor cooling bands, blower etc.



## palmer_md (Jul 22, 2011)

http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=231


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

PorscheFan5 said:


> Hi I have seen some old threads on this by EVDL, Corbin etc. Nothing new.
> 
> Has anyone done this recently? Have anything available that I can use?
> 
> Thanks.


 I used some abs plastic and pcv fittings and made a collar for the motor. I have a dual fan squirrel cage from a 12 volt car heater as a blower.


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## Baratong (Nov 29, 2012)

A bit of aluminum sheet, some basic hand tools, and voila a forced-air cowl for the Warp9...


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## PorscheFan5 (Mar 24, 2015)

Dragonsgate,

Thanks for your response. Can't see the contraption cleary in your photo. Quick questions:


What blower motor did you use?
I see you have something on the belt, maybe an alternator or it that the blower? What width and length belt is that? I need one to run my AC. My pulley is 6 grove and about 7/8" wide.
How much CFM do I need on the blower motor for the Warp 9?

Thanks.



dragonsgate said:


> I used some abs plastic and pcv fittings and made a collar for the motor. I have a dual fan squirrel cage from a 12 volt car heater as a blower.


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## PorscheFan5 (Mar 24, 2015)

Great collar, Baratong! Nice job!

Would love to see some more photos for the collar if you can share. Seems like you made a 3" (or 4") duct. What blower motor did you use? CFM - 150, 250?

I am assuming you welded the Aluminum pipe to the collar for the forced air inlet/duct...

Thanks.


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## Joey (Oct 12, 2007)

I didn't like the EVWest blower on my car. The noise sounded like a shop vac (industrial vacuum cleaner), and the cooling performance was not any better than just the stock internal fan in the motor. The three lines in the graph are for stock config, with the EVWest cooling system, and with just the cooling band, but no power to the blower. The route was exactly the same for each run, and average speed was about 50 MPH, with a few stops and red lights. The temperature is measured from the internal temp probe that came installed in the WarP9 motor, read with an arduino logging setup. You can see that the blower does cool better when the car is not moving, but the temperature goes higher while driving. I'm just going stock because the noise of the blower was driving me crazy, with no real benefit to my driving profile.


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## Baratong (Nov 29, 2012)

PorscheFan5 said:


> Great collar, Baratong! Nice job!
> 
> Would love to see some more photos for the collar if you can share. Seems like you made a 3" (or 4") duct. What blower motor did you use? CFM - 150, 250?
> 
> ...


Hey thanks! When I started acquiring parts for my build, this cowl was the first thing I made for it. It had been many years since I did any major mechanical work and I didn't have many tools at the time -- now, my wife says my garage looks like Harbor Freight exploded in it -- though I never seem to have the right tool when I need it.

So anyway, I used some tin snips to cut the aluminum strips, hand held power drill, and a hammer to make it. Cut the holes with a hole saw bit on the drill, the duct is from aluminum sheet bent to form a tube. I used 'Alumiweld' with a propane torch to mount the duct to the collar. 

I don't recommend such a primitive method if there is an option, but it is doable -- and I found it fun.

The blower is a ~240cfm "Rule 240 Marine Bilge Blower".. about $30 on Amazon. I'm using 3" hose to the motor, and 4" hose from the blower intake to an air filter.

The collar is in two pieces, simply screwed together onto the motor. (Yikes, the camera really emphasizes every flaw in the paint)









The blower motor (painted to match):









As fitted in the car today.. I cut out and put in a gasket between the collar and the motor...


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

The band looks good baratong. Is the purple the color of your car? I used plastic because I was concerned with the metal band being so close to the electrical connections. The inlet is 2.5 inches and has two points of entry on the motor. The fan is a duel squirrel cage in a plastic box of my design. I do not know the cfm but it is more than adequate. The alternator in the picture is a 70 amp merrili and is driven by a 3/4" cog belt.


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## Baratong (Nov 29, 2012)

dragonsgate said:


> The band looks good baratong. Is the purple the color of your car?


Thanks dragonsgate. On the color, I've been loosely using a color code under the hood -- 
* Blue: low to no voltage components
* Red: High voltage components
* Purple - Components that shouldn't have voltage on them but are in close proximity to HV points.

I'm using Duplicolor metalcast paint. The pic's don't really pick up the nuances but it has some transparency to it that looks good on aluminum parts - or parts that have a metallic base coat.




dragonsgate said:


> ... I used plastic because I was concerned with the metal band being so close to the electrical connections.


Yeah, I hear you on this point. When I made this collar, my thinking was that it's not closer to the HV points than the mesh collar that came on the motor from Netgain.. so it should be ok.




dragonsgate said:


> ... The inlet is 2.5 inches and has two points of entry on the motor. The fan is a duel squirrel cage in a plastic box of my design. I do not know the cfm but it is more than adequate. The alternator in the picture is a 70 amp merrili and is driven by a 3/4" cog belt.


If I had it to do over I'd use two entry points like you did. 
Do you use your alternator to drive DC/DC?


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

Baratong said:


> Thanks dragonsgate. On the color, I've been loosely using a color code under the hood --
> * Blue: low to no voltage components
> * Red: High voltage components
> * Purple - Components that shouldn't have voltage on them but are in close proximity to HV points.
> ...


Great idea with the color coding. Also makes an interesting motor bay. The alternator works like a regular alt. I used a cog belt because the V belt would squeal when motor was changing speed. Mostly while slowing down when braking. The cog works well and I do not have to put as much tension on it. The draw back is when motor it stopped the alt is stopped. It kicks in at about 2000 rpm. The DC/DC converters are supposed to be more efficient but I drove my car for the first couple of years just on the auxiliary battery and when I installed the alt. I saw no appreciable difference in mileage or performance. The setup has worked well with out any glitches for over 14 years.


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