# First conversion: '96 Geo Tracker



## Kin (Sep 9, 2012)

In your very specific case scenario of <1000 miles a year and very limited range, SLA MIGHT be a good choice. This is weird to say because SLA by and large sucks and is a big disappointment. 

However in the cold you may find the battery will deliver EVEN LESS current than is already under-delivers. Lithium does not have as much of an issue with cold as lead. 

If you happen to find a very cheap source of SLA, then maybe it's OK for a trial... but also count if you need to increase costs by new suspension due to the lead weights. 


Other than the light experience with batteries I have no car EV experience so take what I say with a grain of salt.


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## madderscience (Jun 28, 2008)

As you sumrised, the conversion should not be any major challenge.

Do yourself a favor though and get a decent battery. a used volt pack won't cost more than an SLA pack and would be way better. The challenge would be rearranging it for a lower voltage. That isn't as easy to do as with a leaf pack. (which would be a great option too, but sounds like you are trying to keep the budget minimal)

While a 72v system would be enough for the specs you laid out, do yourself a future-proofing favor and do at least 120v. 

You might find you want to drive more than 1000mi a year....

Insulate the battery boxes and add some kind of battery heating system (planter heating wire has been known to be a cheap easy solution) and you won't lose battery capacity even in the cold, though you will still need to use more power to go the same distance.

Good luck.


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## Pewibo (Feb 17, 2016)

As I mentioned earlier, I am far from having to make any decisions yet, but this is the type of help I need. I appreciate all advice. What is a rough estimate of the cost for a used Volt pack along with the appropriate motor and controller to give me the performance I want? How hard is it to find it? Thanks again for the help.


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## Pewibo (Feb 17, 2016)

I hate to say "cost isn't a factor" because cost is ALWAYS a factor, but the fact is I just don't want to waste money. I am looking for the best system for my needs and will buy that.


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

If your last statement is accurate, you will not waste your money on lead-acid. Buy a Leaf or Volt pack.


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## jwiger (Oct 18, 2014)

I compiled a list of new and used batteries. You can see that the value in the used Leaf and Volt batteries is much higher in both watt hours (energy) per dollar, and watt hours per weight.

The 6 module Chevy Volt pack has more than twice the range in it per dollar compared to lead batteries and is one third the weight. Seeing this kind of reinforces the "Lead is dead" sentiment. Anyone who thinks they are saving money by buying lead acid hasn't looked at these numbers. In addition, used lead acid isn't even in the realm of possibilities for an EV.










I collected these prices on the date of this post.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

Pewibo said:


> Hello, I just bought a RWD, manual transmission, no power nuthin', fairly junky Tracker. My plan is to strip it down to the frame for a full rebuild and switch to EV. By the time I strip all the junk out, it'll probably be about 1800lbs. My goal is 30 mile range, 45 max mph. I don't mind spending on what I will use, but realistically it won't be used much. Here in NE WI, it's just too cold. I am a self-employed machinist, so the mechanical part will be easy; the electrical shouldn't be too hard either. I've done some research on batteries and motors, and it seems to me that if I'm under 1000 miles per year at 30-40 mph, it may be best to stick to lead acid and a forklift motor. Any advice would be appreciated, and I will keep you posted as things thaw here and the project get going.


You will be happier if you spend a little more to do a 'real' conversion to highway speed vehicle since you are putting in all the work. Forget about lead, go with 120v Lithium, 8" or 9" DC motor. Choice of controller is always debatable whether to go for overkill with a Zilla or Soliton versus one of the DIY from a kit. If you are more mechanical than electrical, spend the extra $ and save yourself a LOT of time.

You might consider putting some heat-tape or battery mats in the bottom of the battery boxes for the winter, and be sure to put in at least 3000 watts worth of heater.... two ceramic heater cores.


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## Pewibo (Feb 17, 2016)

Thanks for all the advice . . . I'm definitely going to seriously study these numbers and I have the feeling I will follow these suggestions.


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## Pewibo (Feb 17, 2016)

Progress report: frame sandblasted and painted, starting reassembly.


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## Pewibo (Feb 17, 2016)

Almost forgot: if I use regen braking, do I still need my complete original booking system? I am getting ready to buy parts for it.


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## miscrms (Sep 25, 2013)

Yes, the regen braking just supplements the hydraulic brakes. Regen doesn't really work at very low speeds, and you need brakes that can still slow/stop the vehicle when the battery is full or in the event of an electrical failure. There will also probably be times when you need to stop faster than regen alone will do, so you'll be using both.

Rob


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