# wiring curtis pb-6 pot box



## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

I just wanna be SURE I am about to connect this correctly... curtis pb-6 pot box to curtis 1221c-7401 controller. The schematic I have is very clear for the controller, but the little 1/4" connectors on the pot box are not labelled, so I wanna make sure they are 1,2,3 and not 3,2,1 left to right!

So. looking at the pot box 'right side up' with the lever up and connectors at the bottom left 1,2,3 Is it correct to wire:

1 (leftmost on pb-6) to controller 1/4 tab #1 (top)
2 - unused
3 - with 1a fuse to +96v post main contactor

and

white/black output from pb-6 to controller 1/4" tabs #1, #2... does which to which matter? its not labelled in my schematic.


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

The black and white connectors can go on either terminal of the controller.

The middle connector is for NC (normally closed) so you're correct this isn't used. The two outside connections again dont' matter which side is connected to what.

The only thing I saw in your post that I wanted to double check was your contactor. Are you positive the turn on coil is high voltage? There are different types and mine were 12v on the coil side and then your high voltage of course on the contactor side. There are ones for high voltage on both sides of course but not as common to use since you'd need another relay so that at some point you can switch with 12v from the ignition.


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## Twilly (Jan 22, 2008)

I would not put high voltage thru the switch on the pot box... Connect the key switch on wire thru the micro switch and have that power a relay that controls the contactor.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

bblocher said:


> The black and white connectors can go on either terminal of the controller.


Got it, pb-6 black/white to controller throttle tabs 2,3 ... which doesn't matter.



bblocher said:


> The middle connector is for NC (normally closed) so you're correct this isn't used. The two outside connections again dont' matter which side is connected to what.


ok... my schematic shows 'com.' to HV+ (NOT keyed 12v) either at contactor or controller) and 'n.c.' to controller tab 1. But the physical pb-6 does not have those little guys labelled, so I WANTED TO BE SURE




bblocher said:


> The only thing I saw in your post that I wanted to double check was your contactor. Are you positive the turn on coil is high voltage?


the keyed tabs on contactor coil ARE shown to be 12v (from interlock and interia switch in series). The power to pb-6 is shown to run to HV+ with 1 amp fuse..


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

dtbaker said:


> the keyed tabs on contactor coil ARE shown to be 12v (from interlock and interia switch in series). The power to pb-6 is shown to run to HV+ with 1 amp fuse..


Do you have a way to post the schematic image? Would help a lot.
Sounds like they are trying to use the pot switch to trigger the ksi input on the controller which doesn't sound like the best way. I'd use a relay in between there to handle the high voltage switching instead of the potbox itself. That's what I did, it's just your standard 12v 40amp car relay you'd get at an autopart store. I think the high voltage on that little switch will burn it out.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

bblocher said:


> Do you have a way to post the schematic image?


I could take a picture of the schematic I guess. Its from KTA. My system voltage is 96v, so its not too high.

I just found the Curtis manual at http://curtisinst.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=cProducts.DownloadPDF&file=1209.pdf

and looking at page 8, figure 7, shows the pb running high voltage direct from battery pack, but with a diode and keyswitch. My key is not running direct off the 96v though!

Other big diff is that I do not have a pre-charge resistor between contactor HV terminals. Should this be required with a 96v system?


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

dtbaker said:


> I could take a picture of the schematic I guess. Its from KTA. My system voltage is 96v, so its not too high.
> 
> I just found the Curtis manual at http://curtisinst.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=cProducts.DownloadPDF&file=1209.pdf
> 
> ...


I have this same manual for the 1231C. Check the diagram below on the next page. It shows more of what you want. If you notice in the page 8 diagram they are only using 48 volts which does run through the switch. This is more like a golf cart setup. Set yours up like figure 8 on page 9. It shows the KSI relay I mentioned. I do recommend the contactor resistor. You also shouldn't be using the A2 connector as shown in those diagrams. If you are let me know and I'll get into that more


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

ok, I have heard back from a couple people including long-time converters like Ken Koch and Bob at ev-america.com in addition to Forum responses, and wanted to synthesize what I have learned and decided to do for future people....

first, while a pre-charge resistor between the HV posts on the contactor will eliminate the spark when they close... it is really not required, and Ken recommends AGAINST it because the spark will zap off oxidation and not really wear out the contactor very fast at all. Additionally, there really is no need to keep power humming through the controller when you aren't driving... better to have everything OFF when key is off.

second, in response to my question of running the full HV+ thru the pb-6 microswitch to the controller KSI tab 1... Ken explained 'The controller keyswitch input (pin 1) must be from a voltage source which is common to the controller B- terminal. All EVs should have isolation between the 12 neg. and the main pack neg., so 12 volts should never be used to turn the controller on or off because its neg. is not common to B-. The 96 volts can be run through the microswitch contacts easily because the current here is so low.'. good enough for me, with a 1 amp fuse between.

lastly, for the non-ee like me who get freaked if things aren't 100% labeled. The order of the pb throttle wires (black/white) doesn't matter which controller tab (2,3) they go to, nor does it matter which PB terms (Com/N.C.) goes to HV+ and controller KSI (tab1).
whew.... simple, but I feel better having asked around....


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

dtbaker said:


> second, in response to my question of running the full HV+ thru the pb-6 microswitch to the controller KSI tab 1... Ken explained 'The controller keyswitch input (pin 1) must be from a voltage source which is common to the controller B- terminal. All EVs should have isolation between the 12 neg. and the main pack neg., so 12 volts should never be used to turn the controller on or off because its neg. is not common to B-. The 96 volts can be run through the microswitch contacts easily because the current here is so low.'. good enough for me, with a 1 amp fuse between.


I think there is some confusing here. You don't use 12v to turn the controller on. You use 12v to activate a relay where the load is HV+ to the KSI input. The only difference being the HV goes through the relay, if you burn it up, it's $5. If you burn up the PB it's a lot more money. They are probably right and it's not of concern.

I got my info and diagram from Bob at EVAmerica too so strang he'd tell you something different than the paperwork given to me. 

Either way good luck on the build man.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

bblocher said:


> You use 12v to activate a relay where the load is HV+ to the KSI input.
> 
> I got my info and diagram from Bob at EVAmerica too so strang he'd tell you something different than the paperwork given to me.


aha... so in both cases, its the HV that goes to the controller KSI. Bob advocates the relay, and Ken just goes direct to the pb counting on the 1 amp fuse for protection, and simplifying with no relay.

So, no material difference, just a slightly different approach and protection for the pb.


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## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

*wiring curtis pb-6 pot box to DMOC445*

Thanks for the info here. So it looks like the black and white wires can be connected to either tab on the curtis controller. 

The DMOC445 manual says:

Pin 3: Accel Pot signal
Pin 28: Accel pedal high (black or white)
Pin 6: Accel pedal low (black or white)

So I would need to open it up, solder on a third wire as suggested elsewhere, and connect that third wire to Pin 3 as a signal wire? I'm wondering because it seems specific about pedal hi and pedal low.

Thanks
Thomas


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

*Re: wiring curtis pb-6 pot box to DMOC445*



sabahtom said:


> Thanks for the info here. So it looks like the black and white wires can be connected to either tab on the curtis controller.
> 
> The DMOC445 manual says:
> 
> ...


Posted to a thread which has been inactive for 4½ years  At least you're on-topic 

I've use the PB-6 with a number of controllers which required a 3-wire potentiometer. And yes, I had to open the PB-6 case and solder a third wire onto the empty pot terminal. It's not hard to do.


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## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

*Re: wiring curtis pb-6 pot box to DMOC445*



major said:


> Posted to a thread which has been inactive for 4½ years  At least you're on-topic
> 
> I've use the PB-6 with a number of controllers which required a 3-wire potentiometer. And yes, I had to open the PB-6 case and solder a third wire onto the empty pot terminal. It's not hard to do.


Thanks for the tip Major. I was keen to be on a thread with 5000 views, I haven't managed to raise a topic that interesting yet...


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