# Tesla Powered Nissan r32 skyline



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Photo of my tesla rear drive unit


----------



## riba2233 (Apr 29, 2015)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Can't wait to see this, one of my favorite cars plus great drivetrain!


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



















Photos of outside and inside of the 350z is not as clean on the outside any more as track abuse has taken its toll but will be freshened up once build is finished.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesa J. churchill (Nov 16, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

This is really something blast to ride.


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

I'm really looking forward to seeing this build progress... just finished kitting the Tesla parts ready for delivery


----------



## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Pretty please put the front motor in as well!
Can you expand on how you will use the charger, ac and other Tesla bits? I got some bits from a motor from a tesla for my project but have left behind the charger, ac because i dont know know if they have been hacked to be used in DIY projects. I'd also love to use the screens!


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

I have thought about using a front motor as well but am gong to get this set up running first then possibly in a future project. The charger has been hacked Damian is currently working on a replacement board. Check it out http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187345


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*










Have brought 4 tesla 60kw models to get me going [emoji16] just waiting on Damian’s inverter board then can get the drive unit running on the bench.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Consider me subscribed- looking forward to seeing this progress!


----------



## Tomthebeaver (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

I'm really interested in this build too!


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Been doing some battery box design and development. Will be used in the 350z and can offer as a service in the future along side other conversion work.

The frame will have an outer metal box and coolant system within the metal frame work. 

It is built in 50x25x1.5mm box which is light weight and strong did look at angle but would of require more of it to make structurally sound and the weight would of ended up the same plus I like the built in coolant system [emoji3] could also be built in aluminium or stainless.

Photos below of build so fare and a basic design. Also test fitted in Kevin Sharpe vw split screen. 










There will be a return coolant system fitted to the top frame.













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



chrishazell said:


> ... coolant system within the metal frame work.


Are those galvanized iron tees, and how are they connected and sealed to the frame tubes? It's an interesting approach; I'm just curious about the details.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



brian_ said:


> Are those galvanized iron tees, and how are they connected and sealed to the frame tubes? It's an interesting approach; I'm just curious about the details.




Hi Brian,

They are only in galvanised for prototype I have ordered stainless steel pipe and tees to replace them with as galvanised does not cope well with coolant [emoji3].

Within the box section there is a piece of pipe with one tee and one 90o elbow with threads on the end that pop up through two wholes in the frame the tees are then screwed to them in which I will use ptfe or some sort of temp proof thread lock. The tee and 90o within the box section will be stainless tig welded on so they are completely sealed and can never leak. 

I will making sure they meet reg100 r1 

Thanks for your comment.

Thanks

Chris 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



chrishazell said:


> They are only in galvanised for prototype I have ordered stainless steel pipe and tees to replace them with as galvanised does not cope well with coolant.


That's reassuring! 



chrishazell said:


> Within the box section there is a piece of pipe with one tee and one 90o elbow with threads on the end that pop up through two wholes in the frame the tees are then screwed to them in which I will use ptfe or some sort of temp proof thread lock. The tee and 90o within the box section will be stainless tig welded on so they are completely sealed and can never leak.


I was thinking that you were going to use the frame sections as pipes, but it sounds like you will just be using the frame sections to enclose and conceal the piping... which makes sense but is very different in construction. If that's the plan, then where fittings come through the frame section wall I would want some form of bulkhead connector, rather than just having the frame section wall trapped between the parts of a common pipe thread connection. Does that make sense?


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Brian

I read that as the stainless end pieces of piping will be welded to the frame solidly so the connectors will seal against the welded piece and the pieces will return strength to the frame where the hole was for it to exit...

Sounds good to me. 

Cheers

Tyler


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



tylerwatts said:


> I read that as the stainless end pieces of piping will be welded to the frame solidly so the connectors will seal against the welded piece and the pieces will return strength to the frame where the hole was for it to exit...


Hmmm... I read it as the piping and connectors internal to the frame would be welded to each other (to keep them from unthreading or leaking, because they are inaccessible), not to the frame. The welded assembly of piping and fittings (a tee and an elbow) would be inserted into the frame tube from one end, then the visible tees would be threaded onto the protruding fitting ends; the plumbing assembly would be removable for inspection, repair, or modification.

Since we're into fabrication methods... welding pipe-threaded fittings should work (particularly since this appears to be a low-pressure application), but that's not how they are intended to be used. If the internal connections are going to be welded anyway, there's no need for the threads at those connections at all.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



brian_ said:


> Hmmm... I read it as the piping and connectors internal to the frame would be welded to each other (to keep them from unthreading or leaking, because they are inaccessible), not to the frame. The welded assembly of piping and fittings (a tee and an elbow) would be inserted into the frame tube from one end, then the visible tees would be threaded onto the protruding fitting ends; the plumbing assembly would be removable for inspection, repair, or modification.
> 
> Correct I did consider building frame out of stainless and using the box as the pipe but is a pain when regulating flow plus need to put fittings into the bottom of the frame to hold the outer box.
> 
> ...



Your right there is no need for the internal connections to have threads but I am struggling to find weld on angles and tees with an outlet thread. 

Thanks

Chris



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Hi Chris
For our clarity and sanity, please confirm which POIs you are welding and how the pipes are retained in the frame.
Thanks

Cheers

Tyler


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



tylerwatts said:


> Hi Chris
> For our clarity and sanity, please confirm which POIs you are welding and how the pipes are retained in the frame.
> Thanks
> 
> ...




So there will be a stainless steel pipe in the frame with two threaded uprights that poke though in which the tees then screw onto. By screwing the tees on it will hold the pipe security and there will also be a finishing plate on the other end where it stick out of the frame to secure it. 

Hope that makes sense I will upload some close up photos over the next few days.

Thanks

Chris 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



chrishazell said:


> Your right there is no need for the internal connections to have threads but I am struggling to find weld on angles and tees with an outlet thread.


I assume that you would need to weld threaded adapters on to the outlets of the welded elbow and tee. Of course, if you use the threaded parts and weld them all the way around at the hidden joints (not just tack them together to prevent rotation), the threads won't matter as far as sealing is concerned.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*



brian_ said:


> I assume that you would need to weld threaded adapters on to the outlets of the welded elbow and tee. Of course, if you use the threaded parts and weld them all the way around at the hidden joints (not just tack them together to prevent rotation), the threads won't matter as far as sealing is concerned.




My plan is to tig weld them the whole way round so it’s a sealed joint that can not leak. 

I should have a complete prototype finished next week so will upload some close up photos.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*










3D printed Gigavac GV200 to scale perfect for prototype work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*










Ccs dc cap designed and printed fits perfectly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Very cool Chris. Mind sharing what printer and media you are using. Will those parts be fit for final daily use?

Cheers

Tyler


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Attached is the ccs dc cap as an stl file ready to be printed. I will be updating it soon with a top cap and wholes to add a security cord. Once i am happy with the design i will put them up for sale on my web site but will also share file on here for those that have there own 3d printer.

also attached is a new tesla battery module STEP file this is to scale i tried with the one shared on "working with tesla packs" but is no where near right. please feel free to make use of it and share.

Wont let me attached the files if anyone whats them they can be found at:
Battery module :https://grabcad.com/library/tesla-battery-module-1
CCS DC Cap:https://grabcad.com/library/ccs-dc-cap-for-electric-car-charging-port-1


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

Fabulous work Chris and many thanks for sharing with the community


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

*Re: Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z*

3D design of a tesla battery box safety valve just uploaded to grab cad:

https://grabcad.com/library/729832


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

So the 350z has been changed and now going to build a drift ready r32 skyline, managed to pick this up cheap as is missing the engine and gearbox but all other components are there and working. 

I will be doing this build along side fastcar magazine so will get a lot of coverage . 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

chrishazell said:


> I will be doing this build along side fastcar magazine so will get a lot of coverage


Well done Chris... really looking forward to seeing a Tesla build in the magazine


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

chrishazell said:


> So the 350z has been changed and now going to build a drift ready r32 skyline...


Interesting - the R32 Skyline uses the same rear suspension design as the related Z32 and S13 models, which include the 300ZX which Nuts&Volts is converting:
300ZX Electric Conversion​It's a little different from the suspension of the Z33 (Nissan 350Z), which will change some of the details of fitting the drive unit into the car.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

It runs the same rear sub frame as the Nissan 200sx s14 range and with it being steel is easier to work with unlike the 350z’s aluminium sub frame. Plus the r32 is a lot lighter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

BOOO stick with the 350Z!!!

no seriously, gotta do what you love, I'm converting an old Jag!


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

itchyback said:


> BOOO stick with the 350Z!!!
> 
> 
> 
> no seriously, gotta do what you love, I'm converting an old Jag!




I just could not bring myself to take the 350z apart I love it as a track car to much. The r32 skyline came up at the perfect time and already had the engine removed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Managed to pick up a rear sub frame for £50 so am going to have it shot blasted then build my drive unit frame onto it save me stripping the one out of the car making it non movable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Good idea, and it looks very feasible to remove and replace the front cross member plus a few brace points for motor mounts. Hopefully the entire drive unit with wheels will drop off the car for access/maintenance etc.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

That will be my plan fingers crossed. Just written the first article for fast car magazine which will be in next month mag so very excited. Plus very good news managed to get my hands on a Chevy volt battery pack for £1200 bargain my plan is to run two pack one under the bonnet which will have to be modified to fit and the second as they are normally fitted I will just modify the floor pan. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nuts&Volts (Dec 20, 2011)

Love it! I think Volt packs are the best option until about two years from now when more options become as cheap


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Chris did you carry that in your camper van? Very cool. Quite a compact battery then. May I ask how you found it please?


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> Chris did you carry that in your camper van? Very cool. Quite a compact battery then. May I ask how you found it please?




Brought it though “car transplants” its from the Vaxhaul version of the volt. Just trying to find a second one now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Got the battery broken down now to try and fit in the skyline.

Check out the first build issue in fast car magazine due out today!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Chris
You can easily break down a bit further and built back in a different configuration

The first "lump" - is a 1kWh unit and two 2kWh units
The next lump is two 2kWh units

And the top of the T is 3 2kWh units and one 1kWh unit

I took mine apart and put it back together as two "Lumps" each was three 2 kWh units and one 1 kWh unit

You can move the water pipes around independently to set up the best layout for your application


----------



## Nuts&Volts (Dec 20, 2011)

Two Volt packs is most likely where my 300ZX will end up. Just makes sense from a cost standpoint. 

I did a little bit of modeling in 3D and was able to fit 3 of the 12s modules in the tunnel between the shifter location and the firewall. Rear of the shifter the tunnel got too narrow/short. You may have to relocate the BMSs to keep the height low enough. From there I was able to fit the rest of a single volt pack between the firewall and the subframe in a double stack with the modules going right to left in the car. This was with leaving room for the steering shaft too. The second pack could probably also squeeze in the engine bay as well over and in front of the subframe. 

In my 2+2 I have the rear gas tank area under the trunk floor that I can get about 3/5 of a volt pack as well. I hope to update my thread with some pictures here soon. I may go for 3 Volt packs if things work out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Definitely the cheapest option for high power output. I have managed to fit the T bit across in-front of the front wheels and will then get the long section straight down the middle and into the gear box tunnel also cheating the original busbars and fibreglass covers 

I think I need to look into changing the main fuse.

I like that set up of two rows would work really well for my second pack.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

First issue in fast car magazine doing a 12 month build with them 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Brilliant! Well done


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

chrishazell said:


> First issue in fast car magazine doing a 12 month build with them


Congratulations Chris, really encouraging to see builds in the 'mainstream' car press


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Finally got started on the battery box. Still needs more work but nearly fits. Just a quick job to get the skyline on the road for testing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Have you mounted your motor yet Chris? Any pics? How much did you need to modify the subframe?


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> Have you mounted your motor yet Chris? Any pics? How much did you need to modify the subframe?




I have brought a whole tesla rear subframe and will start mounting it next week.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

That sounds very interesting, looking forward to seeing it. Thanks


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Full rear sub frame just need to make it fit now.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Looking very good.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

and it fits  now have a massive amount of fabricating to do. Never realised how big the rear brakes were in a Tesla 370mm discs have to run 18” wheels or bigger.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

The "Tesla" lettering and logo on the brake calipers should attract some double-takes from the people walking by the car when parked, since it would not otherwise be externally obvious that it's no longer a Skyline. 

The hub faces are pretty close to outside of the bodywork. That's not surprising: the Model S track width is 66.9" (1699 mm), while an R32 Skyline GT-R body is only 1755 mm (69.1") wide. The sidewalls of any reasonable tires are going to be well beyond the stock fenders. The body currently has quarter panels riveted on, but they don't appear to be flared at all (they look like GT-R style panels on the narrower GTS); can we assume that something much wider will replace them?


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

chrishazell said:


> ...now have a massive amount of fabricating to do.


No kidding 
At least it appears that the Tesla mounting points all fall below the Skyline body structure, so instead of having to cut into steel panels, you'll be building extensions from structure down to mounts.


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

chrishazell said:


> Never realised how big the rear brakes were in a Tesla 370mm discs have to run 18” wheels or bigger.


I didn't know the brake rotor size, but it shouldn't be surprising... a massive car, designed for a market which expects large-diameter wheels, will have rotors (at least at one end) using all of the space available in a large wheel. Since a Telsa is rear-heavy, it won't be the common case of big brakes in front and little ones in the back.

At least they didn't go all the way to needing 19" wheels, the base stock size.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

I am going to be fitting a rocket bunny wide kit like this: 








Or something similar.

I am going to have to get a set of large front brakes to make it look right. 

I am also going to build inbound rear suspension which will look cool but most importantly give me much needed space to have a better offset so the wheels don’t stick out to much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

chrishazell said:


> I am going to be fitting a rocket bunny wide kit...
> Or something similar.


That should do it! 



chrishazell said:


> I am going to have to get a set of large front brakes to make it look right.


At least the large-diameter front rotors can be relatively thin so they are not so heavy.



chrishazell said:


> I am also going to build inbound rear suspension which will look cool but most importantly give me much needed space to have a better offset so the wheels don’t stick out to much.


I assume that this means inboard springs and shocks (probably a coil-over setup), likely using a short vertical link to a rocker arm. I'm looking forward to updates.


----------



## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

So jealous the subframe and wheel hubs fit roughly within the body. I'll be remaking everything in order to get it to fit! In Australia, the road rules mean we can widen the wheel base more than 2 inches. 

Looks dead sexy, and i'm not a bit fan of skylines (sorry) 

Tell us more about your inbound suspension? do you mean something like a cantilever setup?


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

itchyback said:


> Tell us more about your inbound suspension? do you mean something like a cantilever setup?


"Inbound" was presumably a typo intended to be "inboard" (but I could be wrong), and what I meant by a rocker could be called a cantilever setup. The rocker arms would likely be transverse (and presumably above the rest of the suspension and drive unit) rather than the longitudinal rockers seen in "slammed" pickup trucks.


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

itchyback said:


> Looks dead sexy, and i'm not a [big] fan of skylines (sorry)


Fortunately the Skyline's base shape has flared fenders, the GT-R has a more pronounced version of the same shape, and the Rocket Bunny kit expands that rather than being (like most of their kits) just awkward bulges that look like they were designed by someone who had never seen the shape of the car.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Yep I meant inboard suspension that will also included the roll bar. I am still doing the design but is quite a simple setup.

I am looking at other options regarding wide kits but currently the rocket bunny is the only thing wide enough but I have found a company that will just sell me the rear wide arch. 

Fitting the subframe has become a large job [emoji848] just managed to get the front mounting point in which where the most vital as everything is now lined up [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dain254 (Oct 8, 2015)

Maybe you have already covered this or thought of it - as far as BMS is concerned I haven't seen anyone that has been able to utilize the factory GM BMS with the Volt packs, just curious what the plan for managing the cells? Also - with a single 16kwh 96S pack running 360V to make the most of your Tesla drive unit you'll be wanting to pull nearly 1000A which I've heard of drag racers doing... any consideration to getting a 2nd Volt pack and paralleling? My only advice there is parallel cells from the same pack rather than pack to pack since they will be from a different batch and will discharge slightly different. Awesome build so far!


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

I have a Orion bms that I will be fitting. I have left the gearbox tunnel empty with the plan of fitting a second pack when I come across one for the right price. I have spoken with Jim who bolts the tesla powered Honda and he has been pulling 2000amps at peak from the pack for a few seconds which is crazy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Battery box is ready to start building my volt pack onto [emoji1] 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Has anyone used an Orion BMS on a Chevy volt pack?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

https://youtu.be/KJ7iPJsURxE


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

nice video Chris


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

Wait you want to charge that poor chevy pack at 90 amps? 

So who has a 'slave' charge we can chuck one of the open-source controller in?


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Only for testing plan on only running 1 charger but need to test they system to make sure we can use two at once with a slave charger.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

https://youtu.be/wgpXy8FTvPE

Yep I welded the diff on a large drive unit !!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

chrishazell said:


> https://youtu.be/wgpXy8FTvPE


Chris, do you know why this drive unit was available as salvage? Was it from a crashed car, or was it perhaps a warranty replacement because it was not cooling properly, with that blocked coolant passage?


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

brian_ said:


> Chris, do you know why this drive unit was available as salvage? Was it from a crashed car, or was it perhaps a warranty replacement because it was not cooling properly, with that blocked coolant passage?




This one is from car transplant think it was front end crash. Some coolant could still pass through but was quite restricted. Only covered 1600 miles so not long enough to do any damaged have had it spinning with no issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

I think as a standard everyone that buys a large drive unit should remove the small aluminium pipe and run a drill bit by hand though the whole just to make sure it’s not blocked. Think it’s about 4mm. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Thanks for the drive unit origin details, and the cooling notes. 

Now that will be a surprising thing to see in a trunk when showing the car off - I would start from there, rather than lifting the hood. 

But seriously, as it stands at this point the interior of the trunk is open to the outside via the opening made for the drive unit. Are you going to close it off, or leave the trunk open? I'm guessing that as a drift/demo vehicle it isn't going to need a functional trunk, and that there is more hardware going back there anyway... or is anything additional to be mounted with the chargers and fuse box in the rear seat area?


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

I will probably build a clear plastic cover just to stop road dirt coming into the car. Only thing left for me to mount is dcdc and 12v battery but think I am going to put it under the dash as I have loads of room under there. Plus the car should then be 50/50 weight wise I think. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

chrishazell said:


> I will probably build a clear plastic cover just to stop road dirt coming into the car. Only thing left for me to mount is dcdc and 12v battery but think I am going to put it under the dash as I have loads of room under there.


It didn't look like there was any more room under the hood, but I wasn't thinking of under the dash; I suppose there's no heater there now.



chrishazell said:


> Plus the car should then be 50/50 weight wise I think.


I was wondering about mass distribution. The drive unit adds a lot to the back half of the car, while the battery probably weighs less than the engine + transmission + accessories in the front. On the other hand, the battery is much further forward than the engine+transmission.

If you get the complete car on scales, I would be interested to see the end result (in both total weight and distribution).

What we won't see in scale readings is polar moment of inertia. The mass is mostly out at the ends, beyond the axles. While generally undesirable in a sports car, perhaps this will work for drifting... I don't know, I'm not a drifting enthusiast.


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Now that most of the details are getting sorted out, what about cooling?

When the plan was to use Tesla battery modules, there was a mounting frame for them with coolant fittings. The Volt modules seem to have gone in a box without any visible provisions for coolant, but I may have just missed them. Although these are liquid-cooled in stock form, some people do use them without coolant.

Even if there is no coolant for the battery, the motor and inverter are liquid-cooled, but I don't see a radiator anywhere, and there isn't much room for one in front.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

It’s not ideal would be better to have weight at the front or within the wheels base but I am hoping with the large drive unit power and ramp up speed it will counter act.

I am currently developing a mod that will allow the large drive unit to be span round so technically will be running in reverse. Quaife have inspected the gearing and said it will run just as well in reverse. So the plan is to mount an electric oil pump to maintain lubrication well bring the motor and inverter within the cars wheel base. Will be tested on 3 cars I am currently building but I am in contract so can’t disclose any real info until 6 months from now. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

For mass distribution, it's unfortunate that battery modules don't package well in a transmission tunnel.



chrishazell said:


> I am currently developing a mod that will allow the large drive unit to be span round so technically will be running in reverse. Quaife have inspected the gearing and said it will run just as well in reverse. So the plan is to mount an electric oil pump to maintain lubrication well bring the motor and inverter within the cars wheel base. Will be tested on 3 cars I am currently building but I am in contract so can’t disclose any real info until 6 months from now.


That sounds promising. It will be interesting to see how you handle the suspension, since the Tesla suspension will not want to be turned around with the drive unit, and the suspension and subframe are not designed to fit the drive unit in front of the axle. But that's another project... or two, or three.


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)

I actually think the tesla subframe would not do to badly round the other way as the suspension is not on an angle it is simply up and down vertical. But if I went to the effort of rotating the motor the Tesla subframe would not be used as there is not enough adjustment I actually thing I am going to have to build some adjustable arms as there is know camber adjustment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrishazell (Oct 29, 2017)




----------



## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

Looks like someone has been busy 

Cannot wait till this machine can unleash those electrons in anger.


----------



## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

chrishazell said:


> I actually think the tesla subframe would not do to badly round the other way as the suspension is not on an angle it is simply up and down vertical.



What about anti-squat, roll centers, and maybe some rear steer in the existing geometry? I guess it would also depend on how much of the active suspension was used.


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

Chris posted a great video on twitter today;

https://twitter.com/zeroevuk/status/1001522531105419265


----------



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Kevin Sharpe said:


> Chris posted a great video on twitter today;
> 
> https://twitter.com/zeroevuk/status/1001522531105419265


Rotating wheels - always a good sign! 

Chris, what did you end up doing for the springs and dampers? Is that a coil-over shock absorber, on the stock hub mounting point and inclined inboard (versus the stock Tesla vertical mounting) for tire clearance?


----------



## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

quiet tire shredding 

https://twitter.com/zeroevuk/status/1001876016602763268


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

We had a lot of fun today shredding tyres


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

burning more rubber


----------



## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

Zero EV have been busy 😀

“Elekron Macau studio city new all electric stunt show. Opening night December 14th! Can’t wait to see our Tesla powered 350z’s centre of attention!”


----------



## deborahjLinares (Apr 21, 2020)

The installed vitality stockpiling comes kindness of a Chevy Volt battery, which has been full in the engine. The vehicle is fitted with a CCS Combo 2 connector and can quick charge utilizing a level 2 DC station. It additionally brags a couple Tesla locally available AC chargers which can permit it to suck up power at a pace of 22 kW. 

As should be obvious in the video above, in spite of the fact that the vehicle is (some way or another) street legitimate, it's truly intended for disintegrating tires while going sideways. The ride quality, accordingly, comes up short whenever driven on something besides a track. When not eased back by the back wheels turning up billows of smoke, increasing speed seems, by all accounts, to be really extraordinary. Our hosts depict it as"vicious." 

While the possibility of a Teslafied Skyline float vehicle strikes us as a really fun vehicle, there's another close to the finish of the video that sees least as fascinating. Other than a look at a Porsche that is bound to get the double engine Tesla treatment, there is a wonderful looking Volkswagen Bus that we're told will be talented with a 90 kWh Tesla battery and 400 pull engine (likewise, probably, a Tesla unit) for more information visist this site.
https://jdmsportclassics.com/inventory/

While we keep our eyes stripped on these future turns of events, we welcome you to look at our extra recordings beneath — one indicating the Tesla segments, the battery, and charging hardware being offered, alongside a short clasp flaunting the vehicle's huge tire cooking capacities.


----------

