# Really cheap: 100V 350A continuous rated controller on ebay - Great deal or scam?



## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

I was contemplating these controllers before they released the 500 amp version. I'd love to know more, since I'm considering another low budget conversion, and this looks like a great match. 

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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

It looks like a variant on the Paul & Sabrina OpenReVolt controller


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

Damn that's cheap.

That's tempting.



> I was contemplating these controllers before they released the 500 amp version.


Well it's low cost and Chinese, so, based on experience, do you know what the difference is between the 350A and the 500A controllers?

The label. They shuffled the 50 from the 350 over, and turned the spare 3 into a zero. Ta da. Modifications complete. 500A!

Though but seriously, if it works it's a good price, if it doesn't work it's a shit price.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

I've been trying to run the 200V 70A controller and it has had issues. Balint has been very good at responding and helping troubleshoot. I'm hoping we can get it worked out. It seems to be well-made.


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## boznz (Aug 22, 2018)

MattsAwesomeStuff said:


> Well it's low cost and Chinese


Seller is from Hungary

Anyone comment on the use of electrolytic capacitors ? paralleling them up will reduce the ESR considerably so the theory is on it working, also those transistors will need to be bolted to some serious metal to keep them cool


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

As I said it looks just like the Paul & Sabrina 500 amp DC controller

Which works very well indeed and was done as an open source project

The Mosfets are bolted to a big lump of aluminium

From the sounds of it they are using a different "brain board" but the power electronic bits look similar

Here is a link to the thread

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-3.html

It's very long but worth going through before spending any money

The P & S Kit is about $500 - and can be constructed by a complete beginner ! (I know)

Question for electronic types - this uses an Arduino - I have an idea that was a bad idea because of susceptibility to noise?
Is that correct?


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## boznz (Aug 22, 2018)

The Arduino is just a development board that uses a ATMega328 micro controller at its heart, using the Arduino board in a production system would be far from ideal for noise. 

The ATMega328 which is the brains of the Arduino is however a fine chip and perfectly adequate for a DC/PWM controller in a properly designed board, noise is more a product of design/and PCB layout not the micro controller and this design looks quite neat without knowing the technicalites.

The dsPIC used in other DC and most AC Controllers has much more processing and dedicated hardware for multi-channel PWM plus it has lots of application notes to help roll your own design.

If Paul's design is open source then this is one of the things that happens if your design is good, Paul would be aware of this when he released it into the community though I dont know the specific Open Source Licence he uses to comment on whether he allows commercial use.

Open sourcing designs does however overall make the world a better place in my humble opinion.


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## DrZzs (Sep 12, 2018)

I'm very tempted to try this one. I will report back if it explodes.


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

Report back if it doesn't explode too!


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Where's the current sensors? Don't see any. Is it just open loop current control?


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

I'll look on mine tomorrow and let you know.


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Nörbotomten said:


> Hi there people.
> I found this controller on ebay. It looks like the perfect deal for my low budget conversion using a 80V forklift motor. But i cant find any feedback.
> 
> Is there someone in here who have bought and used it?
> ...


To properly choose a speed controller you need to know the amperage rating of the motor (peak and constant). 

If that info is not available then, you need to find/figure out the internal resistance of your "particular" motor, just measure it with a multimeter.

The lower resistance value is the one you want (you may have to turn it slowly by hand while measuring) because sometimes the commutator is not in perfect contact and by turning will find you the best spot [least resistance])

Then, divide 48 by that number and you'll get the max amperage

You'll get the MAX rating not the constant rating, but you can choose the controller by that number if you overestimate by about 15% safety margin.
(say max amp is 320Amps calculated.. pick a 370Amp max rated controller or bigger.)

The "proper" controller (for your motor) will be able to provide all the amperage you need at a constant rate.
(keep in mind that the max rating is likely in the name of the controller.. which is about three times it's constant rating)


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Functional Artist said:


> To properly choose a speed controller you need to know the amperage rating of the motor (peak and constant).
> 
> If that info is not available then, you need to find/figure out the internal resistance of your "particular" motor, just measure it with a multimeter.
> 
> ...


There is not a single thing correct in this answer - best to ignore it


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

Looking at my controller, I don't see any obvious current sensor. Mine is also quite destroyed, so there could have been a shunt or the like there. I've attached some pictures.


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Duncan said:


> There is not a single thing correct in this answer - best to ignore it


Really! Don't just dispute it, please explain what's NOT correct.

To clarify, the only thing NOT 100% correct Is where I said "divide 48 by that number" 
(I was working with a 48VDC system, at the time)
I should have said "divide your intended voltage by that number"



"The controller is picked BY the current a motor could draw
since what the motor COULD draw is exactly the amount the motor WILL draw if it needs to.

You want a controller_continuous_ rating that's sufficient for the motors _continuous_ rating.. when in doubt 
(since the motor's power thirst can easily boil a controllers internals)
scale up so that the controllers _continuous_ rating matches the motors _MAX_ rating."

* In a nut shell, you want a speed controller with a constant amperage rating that matches or slightly exceeds the motors max amperage rating.

I learned that from my buddy Sid.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Functional Artist said:


> Really! Don't just dispute it, please explain what's NOT correct.
> 
> To clarify, the only thing NOT 100% correct Is where I said "divide 48 by that number"
> (I was working with a 48VDC system, at the time)
> ...


Tell Sid he does not have a clue either


_The controller is picked BY the current a motor could draw
since what the motor COULD draw is exactly the amount the motor WILL draw if it needs to_.
BOLLOCKS - at 48v and zero rpm something to the north of 4000 amps will flow through my motor - the sustainable current is 200 amps

_In a nut shell, you want a speed controller with a constant amperage rating that matches or slightly exceeds the motors max amperage rating._

Bollocks again - I'm using a controller that will supply 1200 amps - SIX times the motors max sustainable current

Please STOP feeding misinformation to people who want help


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## Tony Bogs (Apr 12, 2014)

Great deal or scam? is the question.


I'd say it's neither. Just from the pictures I have reversations about the low cost trimpots, the way the bars are screwed on (screw type and washer) and the isolation pads (if they are indeed what I think they are).


The warranty period and price reflect the quality, I guess.


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Duncan said:


> Tell Sid he does not have a clue either
> 
> 
> _The controller is picked BY the current a motor could draw_
> ...


Overcompensating due to a lacking elsewhere?

You sound like someone who put a big block 454 in a little Chevy Vega & says "I know what I am doing because I can go really fast"



Well, I asked my buddy Sid to explain the concept to me a bit more so that I can share & explain it better to you guys:

_"Hey Sid, _
_I got a quick question._
_Remember when you taught/explained to about matching a speed controller to a motor by finding the internal resistance?_
_What is that method called or referred to?_
_Can you give me a link to this info?_

_Thanks, Kevin"_

(His response)

"Common sense I guess.
No, I don't have a link for you I'm afraid..

You'd need to wiggle your way through some physics classes/websites if you need that info verified.

Idea is simple and straight forward:
"unknown" current draw for a known Voltage motor
is simply based on the Ohm's Law (URI) triangle (R= U/I.. resistance = voltage per amp)
rearrange to get U/R = I and with known voltage(U) and known resistance(R) you get the maximum amperage(I) the motor is able to draw.
(in english it'd be VRI but other than a letter change the rule's the same)

then just add a bit to compensate for measurement error and thermally induced resistance changes 
and get the U*I Wattage motor controller (continuous draw, not peak to play safe)

That's all there is to it.. very basic physics actually, 
with some common sense as an adjuster.
since the controller cannot harm the motor by being capable of delivering more amps, you can scale that up to your liking but you should at least compensate for false readings or possible changes in internal motor resistance just to not pop the controller with a too hungry motor.

I bet you can find similar thoughts on numerous websites.. I just don't know any from on top of my head.

'sid"


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Functional Artist said:


> Overcompensating due to a lacking elsewhere?
> 
> You sound like someone who put a big block 454 in a little Chevy Vega & says "I know what I am doing because I can go really fast"
> 
> ...


Just STOP spreading misinformation
SID is completely WRONG and neither of you have a single clue

Just STOP

Your calculation will yield the absolute maximum current that can be pushed into a stationary motor
That number is completely USELESS for anything


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Duncan said:


> Just STOP spreading misinformation
> SID is completely WRONG and neither of you have a single clue
> 
> Just STOP
> ...


Can't argue with Physics!



If anyone is "really" interested in the "science" about motors & speed controllers (...NOT this "cause I said" BS) check out: 

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=25218


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Functional Artist said:


> Can't argue with Physics!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You should take this conversation elsewhere, as it has little to do with the topic of this thread.

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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

jbman said:


> I was contemplating these controllers before they released the 500 amp version. I'd love to know more, since I'm considering another low budget conversion, and this looks like a great match.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


As far as this controller, the adage goes: "you get what you pay for".

The information I linked can help you (& everyone else) understand & then, make educated decisions on choosing a motor & then, matching a speed controller to it appropriately.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Functional Artist said:


> As far as this controller, the adage goes: "you get what you pay for".
> 
> The information I linked can help you (& everyone else) understand & then, make educated decisions on choosing a motor & then, matching a speed controller to it appropriately.


We have threads dedicated to that kind of information. That is the easy part. The question is whether or not the controller will blow up, not if it's rated power is sufficient.

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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Functional Artist said:


> Can't argue with Physics!


No, but you can argue with bad technical choices. There is no need for the motor controller to handle the current which would result from directly connecting the motor at stall to the battery, so that current is not relevant to controller sizing.

Now can we stop the nonsense and talk about the specific controller which is supposed to be the topic of the thread?


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

Back to the topic at hand: 

Mine was fine at 52V nominal during no-load testing. It blew up nearly immediately at 100V nominal. I replaced the fets and it lasted a little longer before blowing up again, no load. Peak current drawn was around 40A and there was no heat in the fets. I am 100% sure of my isolation, so I'm not sure what it could have been. 

There was also an issue where the duty was only a little more than half of the commanded throttle. Essentially, I was hitting only half the RPM's I should have been with an 0709 on either 52V or 100V. I believe this was a coding issue and could have been resolved fairly easily. 

I took a little while to get pictures to Balint of the last failure, but he's been very responsive throughout the issues. I think it could be a good budget controller and has a really nice feature set, just got to get some bugs sorted (whether that's his end or mine).


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## toper (Jul 12, 2018)

coleasterling said:


> Looking at my controller, I don't see any obvious current sensor. Mine is also quite destroyed, so there could have been a shunt or the like there. I've attached some pictures.


So what exactly was the scenario that killed your controller? Which version is that, the 350a or the 500a? I'm looking for something inexpensive for testing purposes before I invest in a higher performance controller, so this definitely caught my eye. But if it blew under normal circumstances, then I don't want to possibly waste the $350 and time on it.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

toper said:


> So what exactly was the scenario that killed your controller? Which version is that, the 350a or the 500a? I'm looking for something inexpensive for testing purposes before I invest in a higher performance controller, so this definitely caught my eye. But if it blew under normal circumstances, then I don't want to possibly waste the $350 and time on it.


Neither. This one is the 200V, 70A version. It seemed to run fine at ~50V no load, but both times I ran it on 100V, it didn't like it. Scenario is wide open throttle, closing the throttle, so there was some regen. I don't know if the programming is at fault or what, but current averaged 15A and hit peaks of 45A. No heat in the fets at all. 

Haven't heard from Balint in awhile, need to check back in. I haven't received a new controller, yet. The first time it blew, I just replaced the fets myself instead of having him send a new controller or fets from Hungary. The controller again ran fine on 50V after I put the new fets in, so I don't believe the second failure had anything to do with my repair.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

Update from Balint: 

He found a couple of traces that were a little too close for higher voltage operation. He's revised the board and will be building and sending a new controller soon. 

I'll update when I have received and tested it again.


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## GigawattsCanada (Jan 16, 2019)

Any updates ? I'm seriously thinking about trying his 200v 500a controller.


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## marcelo2112 (Mar 29, 2016)

Does anyone know what MOSFET has?


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

I have both this 500A version and the open revolt controller and trying to decide which one to use...
It looks like I need to use the Paul and Sabrina controller...

What attracted me to this controller was it’s of regen braking...

I will use the Paul and Sabrina now..


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## GigawattsCanada (Jan 16, 2019)

Why can't you use the eBay controller ?


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

I've gotten the controller in, but haven't had time to install it. There's significantly more trace separation in this revision. I'm hoping that fixed the problem.


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

coleasterling said:


> I've gotten the controller in, but haven't had time to install it. There's significantly more trace separation in this revision. I'm hoping that fixed the problem.


What is your setup and vehicle?
How much power do you plan on pushing through it?


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

200V, 70A. Using it in an outboard conversion on a boat. I'll be running around 110V nominal, 25A or so for continuous duty and the rated 70A for short duty. 

In testing at ~56V nominal, it was running fine. Twice, I tried to go to the ~110V nominal and it blew up. I first thought it was my fault, replaced the fets, then when it blew up again, thought it was a programming fault. Balint came to the conclusion that it could be trace separation on the high voltage side and made a new board revision with more separation. I've yet to be able to test this one, but I'm hopeful it'll work well. It did well at the lower voltage under load, though I wasn't getting the throttle command I wanted...really only about 70% vs. what I thought should be near 100%.


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## GigawattsCanada (Jan 16, 2019)

Ok I have decieded to buy the 200v 500A controller next week and mount it in a custom made heaksink with a fan. 

I plan on using it with a ME1003 at 120v in a 1999 cbr600f4 or a 1990 zx7 ninja, hopefully the new revised board is all good.


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

GigawattsCanada said:


> Ok I have decieded to buy the 200v 500A controller next week and mount it in a custom made heaksink with a fan.
> 
> I plan on using it with a ME1003 at 120v in a 1999 cbr600f4 or a 1990 zx7 ninja, hopefully the new revised board is all good.


Please for SURE tell us how it goes!


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## GigawattsCanada (Jan 16, 2019)

Yes for sure. I'm planning to start a build thread starting this spring for the bike too.


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

Not only am I sceptical of the voltage capability I’m also sceptical of the current rating... 
open revolt is 500 Amps continues...
This one is 500 amps at 5 seconds...


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## GigawattsCanada (Jan 16, 2019)

It looks almost identical as a Paul and Sabrina 144v 500a controller. I'm skeptical about the whole controller too lol. Hope it's not a pos


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

Hey guys!

Any updates on this controller??
I really would like to see this be successful second of course to Paul and Sabrina! 😊


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## wightsparks (Aug 21, 2017)

I am going to use one of their controllers on a reverse trike/buggy running a m0708 motor https://www.evdrives.com/product_p/mot-me0708.htm on 48v.
Had a few questions, contacted via ebay and they were right back to me - with a suggestion for a different (but cheaper) product of theirs that should do the job.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200A-100...M-RS232-arduino/183750956327?var=691346760140 



Getting the unit shortly and should be running in a few months. Will report back!


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

Hey any updates on this controller??
I’ve been running the Paul and Sabrina and it has been great ... any news on the hungry eBay controller would be nice


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## Cookes (May 16, 2020)

I second this, planning on doing a cheap EV build and stumbled on this controller on eBay, any updates or success stories would be nice!


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

This guy is using it!!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d9IBVYfrUxE


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## Cookes (May 16, 2020)

GE11 said:


> This guy is using it!!
> 
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d9IBVYfrUxE


This gives me more confidence, hoping to do a budget build and this will be a perfect fit.


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## GE11 (Oct 24, 2011)

ekthor said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> Two months ago, I got 2 boards from the Balint, the "cheap" Hungarian maker of controllers:
> 
> ...


Wow!!
Awesome report!


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