# Best practice for battery box connectors and seals?



## robh (Jan 26, 2016)

Hi,

I'm about to start fabrication on the battery boxes for my DIY EV build (61 Ford Econoline Pickup). I will have two boxes with 20 Leaf batteries in each with a total config of 20S2P. I was considering installing a deutsch bulkhead connector on the box, as well as using bulkhead connectors for the main voltage +/- connectors. The boxes will be installed under the bed and out of sight. Is this a good or bad idea?

Thanks,

Rob


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## cricketo (Oct 4, 2018)

What exactly is your concern ?


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## boekel (Nov 10, 2010)

Most cost effective is re-using the connectors from the salvaged EV's the batteries came from.


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## jonescg (Nov 3, 2010)

Use Amphenol HVSL connectors. They include a low voltage safety loop in the female plug which allows you to have the male receptacle de-energised whenever the plug is removed. Use it as an interrupt for the ground line of an internal contactor.


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## ishiwgao (May 5, 2011)

jonescg said:


> Use Amphenol HVSL connectors. They include a low voltage safety loop in the female plug which allows you to have the male receptacle de-energised whenever the plug is removed. Use it as an interrupt for the ground line of an internal contactor.


This is quite good information. I'm guessing the connectors would be slightly more expensive than normal?


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## jonescg (Nov 3, 2010)

ishiwgao said:


> This is quite good information. I'm guessing the connectors would be slightly more expensive than normal?


Yeah, but not a whole lot more expensive. They are waterproof, high potential rated and are industry standard. Purchase them directly through Amphenol to save money. Also, it's best to get them to do the crimping and heat-shrinking of the plug connectors. You choose the length of cable you want and they will make it to spec.


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## swoozle (Nov 13, 2011)

jonescg said:


> Yeah, but not a whole lot more expensive. They are waterproof, high potential rated and are industry standard. Purchase them directly through Amphenol to save money. Also, it's best to get them to do the crimping and heat-shrinking of the plug connectors. You choose the length of cable you want and they will make it to spec.


What's the approx price for a set like that?


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## jonescg (Nov 3, 2010)

I think the 90 degree HVSL1000 connector with 1.5 m of cable and receptacle was about AU$250 delivered.


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## Electroddy (Dec 29, 2009)

You do realize that there is a ~300# steel or cast iron counterweight on top of the gas tank. If that is replaced with an equivalent mass of cells you can get more range.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

jonescg said:


> Yeah, but not a whole lot more expensive. They are waterproof, high potential rated and are industry standard. Purchase them directly through Amphenol to save money. Also, it's best to get them to do the crimping and heat-shrinking of the plug connectors. You choose the length of cable you want and they will make it to spec.


They're super nice. I sell some of these on my site (surplus items):
https://www.emf-power.com/product/plug-connector-and-cable/

6' length cable, pre crimped, and shielded cables.


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## EmilBarnabas (Jan 30, 2011)

I have considered doing the same to an old Econoline.


As Electroddy mentioned, there is a large weight above the gas tank that can be removed. It's more like 150 pounds, and held in by carriage bolts through the truck bed. Remove the weight and the fuel tank, and you have lots of room for batteries.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

EmilBarnabas said:


> I have considered doing the same to an old Econoline.
> 
> 
> As Electroddy mentioned, there is a large weight above the gas tank that can be removed. It's more like 150 pounds, and held in by carriage bolts through the truck bed. Remove the weight and the fuel tank, and you have lots of room for batteries.



Here's a video from the Teslonda guy that shows and explains the counterweight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=So0wn2dZGgA


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