# Did my Curtis 1239 really just short out?



## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Do you have a main contactor?

EjeepE on ES I presume. Got a build thread or photo log? More info is helpful.

major


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## stealthE (Jan 31, 2016)

major said:


> EjeepE on ES I presume. Got a build thread or photo log? More info is helpful.


Yes, same person  am not sure if people use 1 site...or both. So I went with both. lol.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

I see that you have stacked the Tesla modules (2 stacks of 3 ?). Have you used insulating layers between the stacked modules? I think you need to because if the fusible links on the cells burn out and burn through the clear plastic cover, there could be shorting between modules. Tesla uses something like this:http://aximmica.com/products/mica-slip-plane/ 
on both sides of the modules to stop shorting to the aluminum housing of their battery trays.


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## stealthE (Jan 31, 2016)

electro wrks said:


> I see that you have stacked the Tesla modules (2 stacks of 3 ?). Have you used insulating layers between the stacked modules? I think you need to because if the fusible links on the cells burn out and burn through the clear plastic cover, there could be shorting between modules. Tesla uses something like this:http://aximmica.com/products/mica-slip-plane/
> on both sides of the modules to stop shorting to the aluminum housing of their battery trays.


I wondered if they used something to insulate. I seperated did in fact make 2 stacks of 3 modules; I separated each stack with 1.5" foam board. Think this is enough?


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

A photo of how it is put together would be very helpful.


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## stealthE (Jan 31, 2016)

Can you make sence of this?? I can get more if you need. Thank you


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

I'm curious about how the Tesla modules and insulation (electrical and otherwise) are stacked in your battery box. It looks like only four modules are hooked up, for now? Is that 104V.

Also, the small, welder type connecting plug on the red battery lead in picture 3 is probably not a good idea. I use them a lot with welders and they're not the most positive connectors. By positive I mean it's difficult to tell if they're fully engaged. And their voltage/current capacities are pretty low. Proper sized Anderson type (or equivalent) would be a better option.


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## 67BGTEV (Nov 1, 2013)

stealthE said:


> Curtis code 41: Throttle wiper high (throttle pot wiper voltage too high)



Check you throttle connection
Confirm that the type of Throttle you are using is matching to your setup
Check the Microswitch (if connected) to make sure you are using the right terminals.


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## stealthE (Jan 31, 2016)

electro wrks said:


> I'm curious about how the Tesla modules and insulation (electrical and otherwise) are stacked in your battery box. It looks like only four modules are hooked up, for now? Is that 104V.
> 
> Also, the small, welder type connecting plug on the red battery lead in picture 3 is probably not a good idea. I use them a lot with with welders and they're not the most positive connectors. By positive I mean it's difficult to tell if they're fully engaged. And their voltage/current capacities are pretty low. Proper sized Anderson type (or equivalent) would be a better option.


Thank you for the suggestion. I will consider that for sure.

As for the batteries, I have 2 stacks of 3 Tesla modules. I have 5 batteries at 21.8v (ish), and 1 at 18v. So I disconnected the 18v battery and I planned to drive a few miles to drain the other 5 down to 18v....where I will charge them for the first time - Essentially, that is y method of bottom balancing.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

stealthE, do you have any kind, or plan to have, a BMS with these modules? The circuit board that is normally attached to one the end of the modules looks like it at least monitors voltage and temperature in each of the 6 groups of 74 cells in the module. Does anyone have more info on module monitoring?

Has anyone hacked the Tesla module monitoring system?


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

Back to trying to help with the original problem:

The big one is the output short error- aside from the obvious i.e. looking for a short either in the wiring to the motor or between a motor phase and ground, I don't have any suggestions.

The high pot wiper voltage has me worried that you've connected your throttle pot up to the wrong voltage. That one you should be able to track down by following HPEVS's schematic.

Misconnecting the microswitch on the throttle pot box will definitely prevent hte motor from turning, but shouldn't cause a high voltage at the wiper input.


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## stealthE (Jan 31, 2016)

****PROBLEM SOLVED****

I called HPEVS (fantastic service btw), he let me know it was impossible to get those two codes at once. This is when I realized I was reading the codes wrong (it is morse code with a flashing light). 

So, I called Thunderstruck (Vanessa is a pro), and we determined that even though my multimeter was reading voltage at both sides of my welding connector...there was no amperage behind it. They told me to go ahead and connected it. This time....no spark.

I am not sure why it sparked once...but it isn't now. So....I led everyone on a wild goose chase. Sorry about that. ::embarrased::


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