# Ge motor



## otp57 (Feb 7, 2012)

I have a GE dc motor 60v 65amps can this motor run a vw bug?
What would be a safe max voltage to run this motor?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

otp57 said:


> I have a GE dc motor 60v 65amps can this motor run a vw bug?
> What would be a safe max voltage to run this motor?



Photos please. 

What are the spec's. Size? Length? That sort of stuff and if you can get a picture of the motor tag plate that would be helpful too. Can't help much with such little information. Vagueness gets nothing. 

Pete


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## vwmike911 (Jan 20, 2012)

Hi sorry to jump in here but im also looking to transform a bug and im trying to find out if either of these motors will power it?

STILL Typ GP116-14/5.5 24v 400A 2200 u/min 7.6 Kw

STILL Typ GF146-14/5.6 24v 215A 1700 u/min 4.0 Kw

Cheers
Mike


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

vwmike911 said:


> Hi sorry to jump in here but im also looking to transform a bug and im trying to find out if either of these motors will power it?
> 
> STILL Typ GP116-14/5.5 24v 400A 2200 u/min 7.6 Kw
> 
> ...


Just like for the other poster. Physical Size, Diameter, Length, Photos of the Commutator and Motor Tag. 

My GE motor is a 9" motor and suitable for a VW or any medium to large vehicle. It is on par with the Warp9 but has no internal fan or end shaft. The armature is quite long. Mine is built for using in a VW. Coupled to a 120 volt pack you would have a nice strong motor. I would not go higher on voltage with my motor as it is neutral timed and runs cool and strong. I'd need to figure out how to advance the timing if I wanted to go more with my GE motor but in a Bug even 96 volts with a strong battery pack, like 200 AH Calb or a good A123 pack would do great. Not a screamer but surly a nice street cruiser and freeway flyer. 

I'd go 120 minimum with the VW Bug. A123 pack or at least a 160 AH Calb/Thundersky cells. You want a controller that will provide a good hefty amount of amperage when called for during your drive. 


The motor in the site below has already been sold. I still have one like it. 
Web Site for this GE motor is here: http://greenev.zapto.org/GE/9"_GE/Welcome.html


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## vwmike911 (Jan 20, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> Just like for the other poster. Physical Size, Diameter, Length, Photos of the Commutator and Motor Tag.
> 
> My GE motor is a 9" motor and suitable for a VW or any medium to large vehicle. It is on par with the Warp9 but has no internal fan or end shaft. The armature is quite long. Mine is built for using in a VW. Coupled to a 120 volt pack you would have a nice strong motor. I would not go higher on voltage with my motor as it is neutral timed and runs cool and strong. I'd need to figure out how to advance the timing if I wanted to go more with my GE motor but in a Bug even 96 volts with a strong battery pack, like 200 AH Calb or a good A123 pack would do great. Not a screamer but surly a nice street cruiser and freeway flyer.
> 
> ...


Hi Mate

Thank you for your respose i have found that the motors i have are too small, thats a nice motor you have shipping to the uk would cost a fortune though, back to the drawing board.

Cheers
Mike


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

You want at minimum an 8" ADC motor for a VW. You can find them. Even a good 8" Prestolite motor would be good. Be sure you have ample cooling for the motor. The internal fans are not the best at stop and go driving and provide little air. 

Yes, shipping a big motor can be prohibitive. There are good used electric forklifts you can hunt. Some forklifts provide more than one motor and the smaller motors can be used on smaller projects. Lawnmowers, Go-Karts, Bicycles, MotorCycles, and what ever other projects you can think up, some even make electric outboard motors for little boats or even larger boats. Yup, just build an adaptor for the upper unit to the lower unit and you have an electric outboard. I had seen a nice example in person of a small electric outboard once.


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## tenthousandclowns (Jun 21, 2012)

Hello.
I have this same motor, the plate says:
General Electric 5BT1346B38 Series Wound DC
HP 20.9 WDG SERIES V 90 A 84
NO.LR8-1102LR RPM 4707 ENCL BV
CL H DUTY-1 HR 140 C

It came stock in a Jet Industries ElectraVan. Two days ago I was driving the van for the first time and after a while there was a clunk and then a grinding sound from the brush end of the motor. The car still ran, but was rough. The motor was quite hot....
I want to say the bearing failed but I am looking for any more thoughts from those with more experience....?
Luke


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

tenthousandclowns said:


> Hello.
> I have this same motor, the plate says:
> General Electric 5BT1346B38 Series Wound DC
> HP 20.9 WDG SERIES V 90 A 84
> ...



First have a good look with flashlight at the brushes all the way around. Look at the commutator for any damage. Have a good camera at hand too. If the com and brushes look good then you can look to a bearing that went afoul. I'd pretty much think it will be a bearing but don't run it again until you find and fix the issue. The motors are excellent and yes, bearings can and do go bad. Clean it and if the brushes need replaced do so at this time. 

Pete


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## otp57 (Feb 7, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> Just like for the other poster. Physical Size, Diameter, Length, Photos of the Commutator and Motor Tag.
> 
> My GE motor is a 9" motor and suitable for a VW or any medium to large vehicle. It is on par with the Warp9 but has no internal fan or end shaft. The armature is quite long. Mine is built for using in a VW. Coupled to a 120 volt pack you would have a nice strong motor. I would not go higher on voltage with my motor as it is neutral timed and runs cool and strong. I'd need to figure out how to advance the timing if I wanted to go more with my GE motor but in a Bug even 96 volts with a strong battery pack, like 200 AH Calb or a good A123 pack would do great. Not a screamer but surly a nice street cruiser and freeway flyer.
> 
> ...


 I am hopeing to go 120dc but I may have to start at 72v and upgrade latter.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

If you can start with 96 volts you'd be much better off. 72 is really not a suitable voltage for an on the road car. For motors cycles and such 72 is fine but even with a motor cycle I'd go with 96 volts. 

Pete


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## otp57 (Feb 7, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> If you can start with 96 volts you'd be much better off. 72 is really not a suitable voltage for an on the road car. For motors cycles and such 72 is fine but even with a motor cycle I'd go with 96 volts.
> 
> Pete


 I am going to go for 120v thanks for your input.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Do you have an idea of what controller you may use?


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## otp57 (Feb 7, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> Do you have an idea of what controller you may use?


I am looking for a curtis 120v


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Why a Curtis? They have a good reputation but sorta weak on amperage but adequate. Thinking new or used? Kelly? Synkromotive? Soliton Jr, Warp Drive? Just interested in others reasons for their decisions. 

Pete


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## otp57 (Feb 7, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> Why a Curtis? They have a good reputation but sorta weak on amperage but adequate. Thinking new or used? Kelly? Synkromotive? Soliton Jr, Warp Drive? Just interested in others reasons for their decisions.
> 
> Pete


I don't have much money to put in the car so I am looking for a used unit .
I have build or repair most of my parts for the car you can see it on www *firstontop com* click on the VW BUG.
I also made an electric motorcycle now I want to do a car.
Curtis never let me down for the money.


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