# New EV conversion



## IanG13 (Sep 4, 2016)

Hey, I’m using the Leaf motor too, but I’d like to design my own coupler. Do you have the spline spec, the measurements I’ve taken don’t seem to match an SAE standard? 
Also, how easy was it to set up Paul’s control board?
Many thanks


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Paul's board was very easy to set up. Getting the connectors off of the old board was annoying, and they used loctite on the tiny screws to mount it, so you will probably break them all when you remove the board.

I am getting a coupler and adapter made by a member of ES, whose name is Keith Forbes ([email protected]). He may provide the spline measurements to you, but I like what he's doing and I think it's worth just buying. He has also modified Danny's CAD file, and with this coupler it can be easily adapted to just about anything.

































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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

jbman said:


> The motor will mate to the old 3.03 out of my Mustang with a canev adapter plate and a Leaf adapter plate. A gentleman will provide me the leaf side of things, including the coupler, once I get him the measurements.





jbman said:


> I am getting a coupler and adapter made...


If I understand this description and the photos:

the Ford 3.03 transmission bell housing will bolt to the CanEV adapter plate (just the plate, not CanEV's coupler)
the custom Leaf adapter plate (the machined aluminum plate shown in photos) will bolt between the CanEV adapter and the Leaf motor
the Leaf motor and transmission input shafts will each get an internally splined coupler with two drive pins (shown in yellow and green in the CAD rendering)
the motor and transmission couplers will engage each side of an intermediate coupler section (shown in blue)
the intermediate coupler will ride in a bearing (shown inserted into the Leaf adapter plate in the first two photos), with the bearing supported by the Leaf adapter plate

I like this intermediate bearing approach, because it means that neither splined adapter needs to locate a shaft. I'm not so sure about the two-pin drive approach - is that strong enough, and how close will the fit be?


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

brian_ said:


> If I understand this description and the photos:
> 
> the Ford 3.03 transmission bell housing will bolt to the CanEV adapter plate (just the plate, not CanEV's coupler)
> the custom Leaf adapter plate (the machined aluminum plate shown in photos) will bolt between the CanEV adapter and the Leaf motor
> ...


The coupler sides and center section all bolt together, actually. You will notice 6 holes on each side. The two splined portions bolt to the center section. They dont just ride on the pins.

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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

jbman said:


> The coupler sides and center section all bolt together, actually. You will notice 6 holes on each side. The two splined portions bolt to the center section. They dont just ride on the pins.


Thanks.  I saw the holes, but didn't see any indication of what they were for. Since the rendering doesn't show the splines, I wasn't reading too much into the details, other than the obvious drive pins.

So the pins are to take the drive torque, rather than the bolts being loaded in shear.

I assume that all three coupler components will be bolted together and mounted in the intermediate bearing, then the motor and transmission shafts will be inserted as the motor and transmission are attached to the mounting plates.

I can understand that it would not be practical to machine a single piece with different splines in each end, but I'm not sure why there are three pieces instead of just two.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

brian_ said:


> Thanks.  I saw the holes, but didn't see any indication of what they were for. Since the rendering doesn't show the splines, I wasn't reading too much into the details, other than the obvious drive pins.
> 
> So the pins are to take the drive torque, rather than the bolts being loaded in shear.
> 
> ...


There are three pieces because it is supposed to be widely compatible. The leaf spline is always the same, but the transmission spline and the distance between the two will vary greatly. Anyone using a 1 1/16 10 spline input shaft can use the transmission coupler, and the middle portion can just be machine down to the proper distance. 

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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

jbman said:


> There are three pieces because it is supposed to be widely compatible. The leaf spline is always the same, but the transmission spline and the distance between the two will vary greatly. Anyone using a 1 1/16 10 spline input shaft can use the transmission coupler, and the middle portion can just be machine down to the proper distance.


That makes sense, but the middle part has drive pins on both sides, so it's not like a simple bushing that can be cut down. If the three parts were connected in rotation by dowels the middle part could be simply turned to length.

After my previous post I did think of one reason for the third piece: in many cases the transmission input shaft should run in a pilot bearing - the middle part could contain the pilot bearing more easily than building both the pilot bearing and the spline into the transmission-side part.

Will there be a pilot bearing, or is the plan to depend on the transmission-side spline to locate the transmission input shaft radially?


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

brian_ said:


> That makes sense, but the middle part has drive pins on both sides, so it's not like a simple bushing that can be cut down. If the three parts were connected in rotation by dowels the middle part could be simply turned to length.
> 
> After my previous post I did think of one reason for the third piece: in many cases the transmission input shaft should run in a pilot bearing - the middle part could contain the pilot bearing more easily than building both the pilot bearing and the spline into the transmission-side part.
> 
> Will there be a pilot bearing, or is the plan to depend on the transmission-side spline to locate the transmission input shaft radially?


Yes, the middle part also has the pilot to keep it aligned.

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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

It looks similar in function as the old Kaylor adapter plates made for the old air cooled VW transaxles. As you note, it could be attached to most preexisting, well designed DIY or commercial adapter plates. A double row bearing (if it doesn't have it already) or two bearings side by side might be better to support the rotating center section and avoid the potential edge loading of a single row bearing(if that's what it has).


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Maybe you've answered this. Did you find a clutch disc with splines that have a close fit to the Leaf shaft? I see you have a disc on the Leaf motor shaft in the video.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> Maybe you've answered this. Did you find a clutch disc with splines that have a close fit to the Leaf shaft? I see you have a disc on the Leaf motor shaft in the video.


The clutch disc is too loose. You would have to talk to Keith about the splines. I put his information in my earlier post.

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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Well, the adapter Keith sent did not fit the CanEV adapter plate. He immediately refunded me, but I haven't heard back since. I have opted to create my own by using Danny's as a template. I posted it to my site, jeffeblack.com if you want to download it. I just used FreeCAD to make it, so you can edit it yourself if you want. I am supposed to get it tomorrow, so we will see how well it works.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Turned out very nicely. Cost me about $380. I was concerned since this was my first time working with CAD, but it worked great.

I forgot to rotate the transmission holes again, but itll be fine. The motor will end up at a slight tilt.









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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

I had a local machine shop drill some new holes for me. I bolted it all together, and it looks good. I just need to get my coupler, now...









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## D a n n y^ (Aug 4, 2015)

jbman said:


> I am getting a coupler and adapter made by a member of ES, whose name is Keith Forbes ([email protected]). He may provide the spline measurements to you, but I like what he's doing and I think it's worth just buying. He has also modified Danny's CAD file, and with this coupler it can be easily adapted to just about anything.
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk



Jbman,

I am so pleased to see that the adapter plate design is being put to use! I hope that other members and DIYers find use of it as well. Keep up the good work! 

Danny


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

D a n n y^ said:


> Jbman,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I actually traced your adapter to get the shape and bolt pattern. I modified my own from there. It looks like it should work well.

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## clynn85 (Dec 21, 2018)

jbman said:


> Turned out very nicely. Cost me about $380. I was concerned since this was my first time working with CAD, but it worked great.
> 
> I forgot to rotate the transmission holes again, but itll be fine. The motor will end up at a slight tilt.
> 
> ...



Just wondering, what is the purpose of the intermediate bearing? Is the bearing in the drive end of the motor not capable of supporting a traditional coupler?


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## scotttherobot (Mar 31, 2018)

I am so excited about this conversion. I've been planning to do a W123 chassis Mercedes conversion for a while, also with a Leaf motor. I've been waiting on a solution to the coupler/spline challenge before I get started in earnest. Looks like you've got it figured out. I subscribed to your YouTube channel, can't wait to see more.

In one of your videos you mention that you plan on leaving the transmission in 2nd "all the time". Does that mean that you're going to lock it in 2nd and not have a shift knob inside the car? I've been considering doing that in my own conversion and controlling forward/reverse electronically.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

clynn85 said:


> Just wondering, what is the purpose of the intermediate bearing? Is the bearing in the drive end of the motor not capable of supporting a traditional coupler?


It was recommended, so I went ahead and made space for it. I dont think it's actually necessarily, though, so I took it out.

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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

scotttherobot said:


> I am so excited about this conversion. I've been planning to do a W123 chassis Mercedes conversion for a while, also with a Leaf motor. I've been waiting on a solution to the coupler/spline challenge before I get started in earnest. Looks like you've got it figured out. I subscribed to your YouTube channel, can't wait to see more.
> 
> 
> 
> In one of your videos you mention that you plan on leaving the transmission in 2nd "all the time". Does that mean that you're going to lock it in 2nd and not have a shift knob inside the car? I've been considering doing that in my own conversion and controlling forward/reverse electronically.


I plan on leaving it in second gear all of the time, locked just as you say. I'll put some sort of bracket on the levers to lock them in position. That gives me a good all around gear ratio, and I can just spin the motor faster if I need to. No shifter in the car at all, just like my MG. I will electronically reverse like you mentioned.

I'm hoping to get the old engine out of the Mercedes soon, which will allow me to make the brackets and such to mount everything up. 

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## scotttherobot (Mar 31, 2018)

I've got a lot of questions because your project is my dream project, so I'm cheating off of you  Hope you don't mind.



jbman said:


> That gives me a good all around gear ratio, and I can just spin the motor faster if I need to. No shifter in the car at all, just like my MG. I will electronically reverse like you mentioned.


What's the general approach you took to calculating your target gear ratios? Did the gear ratios contribute to your choice to use the 3.03 transmission versus the Mercedes transmission, or was that driven by the availability of premade adapter plates for the Ford (or maybe your 220 was an autobox)?

I read over the posts on your website and am very interested in your adapter/coupler work. What material did you have your adapter plate and coupler machined from? Are you pleased with the work from 3DHubs dot com?

I also see you had an issue with the rotation of the B-face motor holes. Was that problem unique to the orientation of the mounting holes on your CanEV adapter plate or is there a standard/accepted orientation for B-face mounting holes? It seems like from your photos, you have the holes in roughly a + pattern relative to the face of the Leaf motor (with the Leaf spline at the center of the +).

How snug did the Suzuki Samurai clutch splines end up being on the Leaf shaft once pressed into the coupler?


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

scotttherobot said:


> I've got a lot of questions because your project is my dream project, so I'm cheating off of you  Hope you don't mind.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I aimed for a ratio near what was in the Leaf originally. I expect the Mercedes to finish slightly lighter, so I fudged the numbers a bit. The total ratio should be nearly 8:1.

I opted to use the 3.03 because the ratio in 2nd was close enough, and I already had it on hand. In addition, they are extremely stout transmissions that are still widely available here, unlike the manual transmission in the Mercedes. I didn't want to go through a ton of work to design a coupler and adapter only to blow up my transmission and not be able to get a replacement. Being able to get a cheap CanEV adapter made the choice easier, too.

The adapter plate is 6063 aluminum, and the coupler is some kind of steel - I forget exactly. 3D Hubs surprised me. They did a good job at a very reasonable price. The only thing I didn't like was that they required a technical drawing for tapped holes, so I just tapped them myself. 

The holes were rotated the wrong way because I forgot to fix them in a later revision I made. The CanEV adapters are slightly off center for the mounting holes, which you can see from the straight-on pictures. I'm not sure why, but I had to compensate for that to keep the motor level when mounted.

The samurai clutch center was initially pretty tight. I had to tap it on with a hammer and lube the first time.

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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

That is quality work .

What Max RPM do you think the leaf motor will spin at ?


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## Nuts&Volts (Dec 20, 2011)

zippy500 said:


> That is quality work .
> 
> 
> 
> What Max RPM do you think the leaf motor will spin at ?




Arlo has had it up to 15,000 I believe. It spins a bit over 10k rpm in the leaf stock


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

Nuts&Volts said:


> Arlo has had it up to 15,000 I believe. It spins a bit over 10k rpm in the leaf stock


Will Paul's board spin the motor up to 10K ?


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

zippy500 said:


> Will Paul's board spin the motor up to 10K ?


He added field weakening at my request, and I'm still testing. I dont know what RPM it is hitting in my 60v test, but it's very fast.

Once I have the battery pack wired up, I'll test it at 360v.

There's a video on my YouTube with a brief demonstration.

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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Great work, JB. For safety sake, rings and other jewelry should be removed when working around batteries. Taped-up wrenches, sockets, and plastic, composite ratchets or, better yet, a set of dedicated high voltage rated tools would be good for working around high voltage and current projects.


I see the dowel pins align the motor and motor adapter plate. Also, the CanEV adapter plate has pins to align it with the transmission bell housing. What aligns the two plates together? The loose input shaft on the 3.03 transmission needs to be properly aligned with the motor shaft and well supported. Do you you have some shots of the coupling set-up that shows this?


The potential problem with rings and batteries: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDIccPLKUAU


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

zippy500 said:


> What Max RPM do you think the leaf motor will spin at ?


That depends on mechanical factors (will the rotor hold together? will the bearings survive?) and available voltage.



Nuts&Volts said:


> Arlo has had it up to 15,000 I believe. It spins a bit over 10k rpm in the leaf stock


What voltage was Arlo using, and was that under load or spinning freely?

In the stock pre-2018 Leaf, the torque and efficiency graph shows operation to about 10,500, but power drops off linearly from 80 kW @ 9,900 rpm to zero at 10,500 rpm; power is presumably limited by protective controller logic from to 9,900, and by voltage above that. Effectively, with the stock pre-2018 configuration the maximum useful speed is a bit over 10,000 rpm (corresponding to the top speed of the car); the published top speed of 93 mph corresponds to 10,300 with the 7.937:1 transmission ratio and 205/55R16 tires.


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## Nuts&Volts (Dec 20, 2011)

Arlo runs 112s battery. Reading thru his thread on ES it looks like he was hitting 14k to 15k in his ¼ mile runs. He’s using field weakening. My calculations say that on base speed can be around 5000-5500 RPM on a 96s battery. 


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Nuts&Volts said:


> Arlo runs 112s battery. Reading thru his thread on ES it looks like he was hitting 14k to 15k in his ¼ mile runs.


Thanks - the increased speed with increased voltage makes sense.



Nuts&Volts said:


> He’s using field weakening.


I find the use of the term "field weakening" strange in a PM or induction motor, since (unlike a motor with a separately excited field winding) there is no field current to change, thus weakening the flux. In practice with a PM AC , the entire speed range above the base speed is considered the "flux weakening" zone, in which current and torque drop off with increasing speed as more of the voltage is used for overcome back-EMF, so the power output is roughly constant. It appears that "field weakening control" ends up just meaning keeping the applied voltage as high as possible and manipulating the flux direction - which requires some phase shift of the applied power from the rotor position - and every controller does that, right?



Nuts&Volts said:


> My calculations say that on base speed can be around 5000-5500 RPM on a 96s battery.


So Nissan's reduction of current starting from about 2700 rpm is presumed to be based on a chosen input power limit (for thermal reasons), rather than the current which can be driven by the voltage available from a 96S battery? Are you assuming that the stock ~280 Nm torque could be sustained to that speed, then the corresponding 147 to 161 kW maintained at higher speeds until limited by available voltage?


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## Nuts&Volts (Dec 20, 2011)

Yea I suppose flux weakening is a much better term. But no not all controllers can do flux weakening. Most modern controllers can. 

And I yes I assume Nissan reduces current to protect the battery. Most OEMs do this. They limit power before base speed. I came up with the RPM base speed based on Kt (Nm/A). Kv (RPM/V) has an inverse relationship. Don’t have the math in front of me. 

And IPM motors are much easier to field weaken from my understanding vs SMPM motor (interior vs surface). 

I believe the new Leaf slightly increased motor current and increased battery current to allow for the 150kW motor rating. 


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Nuts&Volts said:


> Yea I suppose flux weakening is a much better term. But no not all controllers can do flux weakening. Most modern controllers can.
> 
> And I yes I assume Nissan reduces current to protect the battery. Most OEMs do this. They limit power before base speed. I came up with the RPM base speed based on Kt (Nm/A). Kv (RPM/V) has an inverse relationship. Don’t have the math in front of me.
> 
> And IPM motors are much easier to field weaken from my understanding vs SMPM motor (interior vs surface).


Thanks 



Nuts&Volts said:


> I believe the new Leaf slightly increased motor current and increased battery current to allow for the 150kW motor rating.


This is an interesting point. If the 2018 Leaf motor is physically the same as the pre-2018 Leaf motor, then the increased torque (320 Nm vs 280 Nm) would be due to raising the current limit, and the increased power rating (110 kW vs 80 kW) would be due to allowing a higher current and voltage combination above the transition speed (presumably about 3300 rpm). The Leaf e+/Plus version with 60 kWh battery which was announced (but doesn't show on the Nissan USA or Canada websites yet), rated by Nissan at 150 kW, could be another step up with the same motor. These changes suggest that the Leaf's motor power was always limited by the battery, not the motor itself, which was I think the general understanding here. Whatever Nissan allows in the 2018 would then be a choice that a DIY builder could make for their motor, as long as their battery can supply the required power, their controller logic is appropriate, and their inverter doesn't melt down.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> Great work, JB. For safety sake, rings and other jewelry should be removed when working around batteries. Taped-up wrenches, sockets, and plastic, composite ratchets or, better yet, a set of dedicated high voltage rated tools would be good for working around high voltage and current projects.
> 
> 
> I see the dowel pins align the motor and motor adapter plate. Also, the CanEV adapter plate has pins to align it with the transmission bell housing. What aligns the two plates together? The loose input shaft on the 3.03 transmission needs to be properly aligned with the motor shaft and well supported. Do you you have some shots of the coupling set-up that shows this?
> ...


Thank you for that note - you are correct! I will get some safer tools and remove jewelry. 

The two plates are aligned by the mounting bolts. I don't know if it will be an issue, but it could be. The CanEV plate has no dowels on the motor side.

I had originally planned to use a bearing to support the coupler, but I did not account for the press-fit dimensions and tolerance. This led to the bearing being very tight, and I was sure it would fail quickly. The coupler has a skinny section inside of it to function like the pilot bearing for alignment. I'm hoping the tight fit and good alignment is enough. If not, I'll edit the CAD and try again.

I'll get a picture inside the bell housing, maybe a video if I get a minute, so that you can see how it goes together. 

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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

jbman said:


> The two plates are aligned by the mounting bolts. I don't know if it will be an issue, but it could be. The CanEV plate has no dowels on the motor side.



Regular bolts probably won't have good enough tolerances to properly align the two plates. Maybe a machined spacer that picks up the machined inner circles of the two plates could be used. 

The CanEV plate inner circle is machined for a close fit on the machined step on the typical(usually standardized) motor end bell, so no dowels are needed for alignment.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> Regular bolts probably won't have good enough tolerances to properly align the two plates. Maybe a machined spacer that picks up the machined inner circles of the two plates could be used.
> 
> The CanEV plate inner circle is machined for a close fit on the machined step on the typical(usually standardized) motor end bell, so no dowels are needed for alignment.


That's possible, I agree. If I end up making the plate again, I will add a locating ring to the face for the CanEV adapter.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

jbman said:


> That's possible, I agree. If I end up making the plate again, I will add a locating ring to the face for the CanEV adapter.



If you can give up some thickness of your existing motor plate, and the plate's center hole is not too big, it would be a quick and easy lathe or a bit more complicated CNC mill operation to machine a small step on the motor plate that aligns the CanEV plate.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> If you can give up some thickness of your existing motor plate, and the plate's center hole is not too big, it would be a quick and easy lathe or a bit more complicated CNC mill operation to machine a small step on the motor plate that aligns the CanEV plate.


For the cost of setup and such, I'd rather put those dollars to redoing a few things, anyway. If this doesn't work well, I'll make the modifications to the CAD and get a new one milled.


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

jbman said:


> If this doesn't work well, I'll make the modifications to the CAD and get a new one milled.


Do you how do CAD or did you learn for your project ?


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

zippy500 said:


> Do you how do CAD or did you learn for your project ?


I watched a couple of tutorials on FreeCAD to get the basics, and I went from there. It was not something that I had done before, but it's pretty neat stuff once you get into it.

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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

thanks, so is the CAD file all the engineering shop need to create the adapter plate ?


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

zippy500 said:


> thanks, so is the CAD file all the engineering shop need to create the adapter plate ?


You export the file as a model, and that should be enough unless you want them to tap holes. Most seem to require a drawing for that. I'm going to make some changes to that file eventually to incorporate things I've been learning since having made it.

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## D a n n y^ (Aug 4, 2015)

electro wrks said:


> If you can give up some thickness of your existing motor plate, and the plate's center hole is not too big, it would be a quick and easy lathe or a bit more complicated CNC mill operation to machine a small step on the motor plate that aligns the CanEV plate.



I second this approach. A machined step allowed for no error in alignment with my adapter plate.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

D a n n y^ said:


> I second this approach. A machined step allowed for no error in alignment with my adapter plate.


Yeah, it makes a lot of sense. Regretfully, I have what I have at the moment. If there are any issues, I'll have to add the step and get another one made.

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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

I'm almost ready to test drive the Mercedes!

I have everything mounted, and I have tested everything in the car except for the charger. If you want to see some video right now, feel free to check out my channel here:My Channel

I'll be taking a few pictures under the hood and in the trunk later today to add to the thread here.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

jbman, what's the latest with this project? In your last YouTube post, you said you were having problems with the inverter after a short test drive.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> jbman, what's the latest with this project? In your last YouTube post, you said you were having problems with the inverter after a short test drive.


It's on hold for the moment. I'm finishing the garage so that I'll have a place to work on it. I'm finishing up the electrical this week or next, and I'll hopefully be able to use it shortly after that.

I just dont have enough room to pull things apart properly. The garage will help a lot 

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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Good work spaces are a real plus. In the vid you said you set your current limit to 400A. How close were you to this when the inverter blew?


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> Good work spaces are a real plus. In the vid you said you set your current limit to 400A. How close were you to this when the inverter blew?


I'm unsure, to be honest. It suddenly quit during moderate regen, but that doesnt be necessarily mean the inverter is actually blown. In still hoping for a broken connection or something. Perhaps I pulled a wire too tightly or whatnot.

Once I have my space set up, I can pull all of the batteries and open up the inverter. It's a really tight fit, so it's all gotta come apart.

I'm considering taking this time to redesign my adapter plate to have a locating ring and bearing support, since itll be mostly apart, anyway.

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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Post some pics of what you have and what you modify.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Also, before you separate the motor from the trans., try to check the torque required to rotate the motor through the trans. The 303 trans. probably has a nut holding the front universal joint yoke onto the trans. output shaft. Drop the drive shaft to get access to this nut with a small (1/4" drive)torque wrench to measure the torque needed to rotate the trans./motor set-up. 

This will give some indication if there is excess drag through the set-up, possibly related to alignment problems. At least it will give you a reference point to compare with the torque required rotate the set-up if you address the alignment issues Danny^ and I wrote about in previous posts.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> Also, before you separate the motor from the trans., try to check the torque required to rotate the motor through the trans. The 303 trans. probably has a nut holding the front universal joint yoke onto the trans. output shaft. Drop the drive shaft to get access to this nut with a small (1/4" drive)torque wrench to measure the torque needed to rotate the trans./motor set-up.
> 
> This will give some indication if there is excess drag through the set-up, possibly related to alignment problems. At least it will give you a reference point to compare with the torque required rotate the set-up if you address the alignment issues Danny^ and I wrote about in previous posts.


The output of the transmission is a splined shaft, and a slip yoke goes over it. There is no nut that I'm aware of that I could use to test.

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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Maybe you could turn it by hand to get some idea how much drag there is.


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## jbman (Oct 26, 2017)

Well, I took everyone's advice into consideration. I posted the modified adapter plate in the technical section, but I haven't heard anything. I have it posted here for those who are interested: Adapter Plate

I'm going to go ahead and verify my dimensions now, and I plan to send it off to be milled tonight. I'll let you know how it fits. I'll also be making a new coupler, most likely, since I'm not 100% confident the original one is perfectly centered. I rethought my processes on that one.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Excellent! I'm very interested to see if your measurements bear out at 10k+ RPM. As more Leaf motors wind up in conversions, this info will become very valuable, as the simplest approach is usually to mate a motor to a manual transmission...


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