# ceramic heater



## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

so I bought an inexpensive ceramic heater at Target and took it apart. Wires everywhere! What do you guys usually do with the low-off-high switch and low to high adjusting knob??


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## ZenDaddy (Jul 22, 2008)

PatricioIn,

Tossed it all in the round file and built this circuit with parts from KTA!

happy Heating!

Michael


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## Jimdear2 (Oct 12, 2008)

Before you tear your dash apart, think about these two ideas.

First version;
They now make point of use tankless hot water heaters in 12 volts for the RV crowd.
1.) a small insulated water tank 3 to 6 gallons.
2.) An electric water pump.
3.) a tankless in line water heater. (these units have a outlet water temp thermostat to keep water temp the same)
4.) An in car thermostat controling a relay to turn pump and heater on and off off.
I beleive this would give instant heat at start up and as the water in the tank heated the heater would cycle less often. 

Second version;
Use a 1000 to 1500 watt tank type Zerostart engine block heater (go to JC Whitney about $60.00) to to pre heat the water in an insulated tank while you are plugged into the grid and charging. The heater would be in in its native thermo siphon mode. The Zerostart heater is also thermostatically controlled so you dont have to wory about overheat overnight. Then while drivin, use your pack to maintain the water temp in the tank and run a water pump to move hot water through the existing heater core. This way you get to keep your exiting heater system temperature controls, be they hot water throttleing valve or blendoor.

Just a couple of random ideas that will keep you from tearing the interior apart. (I was a repair tech for 30 years, I hate that job). 

Your cermaic heater uses 1500 watts as well so I don't think your power use would be much different. Just a few watts to run the pump. With all that stored heat in the tank from the plugged in to the grid pre heat mode it might even be easier on your pack.

Jim


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## elevatorguy (Jul 26, 2007)

You may want to save the overtemp snap switch from heater for a safety cutoff if your fan stops for some reason. 
Safety first


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

Jimdear2 said:


> Before you tear your dash apart, think about these two ideas.
> 
> First version;
> They now make point of use tankless hot water heaters in 12 volts for the RV crowd.
> ...


well... I really considered that route first.. but this ceramic heater was just so much cheaper. The dash is already removed by the way; not really that bad (as long as I get everything connected right when I put it back in!)


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## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

PatricioIN said:


> well... I really considered that route first.. but this ceramic heater was just so much cheaper. The dash is already removed by the way; not really that bad (as long as I get everything connected right when I put it back in!)



Patric,

I just did the fluid heater in my car and posted some power info in my build thread. I should have some pics up in a bit! The heat from this thing is amazing and I am not preheating "on grid".

Ben


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> Patric,
> 
> I just did the fluid heater in my car and posted some power info in my build thread. I should have some pics up in a bit! The heat from this thing is amazing and I am not preheating "on grid".
> 
> Ben


I'm curious about the fluid heater approach. Please post a link to your build thread.

Although I live in Florida, I live in NORTHwest Florida so I've got to have something for those frosty days...


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## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

tj4fa said:


> I'm curious about the fluid heater approach. Please post a link to your build thread.
> 
> Although I live in Florida, I live in NORTHwest Florida so I've got to have something for those frosty days...




My thread is here: http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?p=81958#post81958


But I've been talking with DVR on his thread here: ttp://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17144



Ben


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## willitwork (Apr 9, 2008)

Hi,
I also had earlier posts on the 'fluid type' heating system and found I did not like the heat that was being thrown off in the engine area. I agree some very nice heat gets produced, but circulating that fluid through the hoses and holding it in the tank sure did make for a hot engine bay, plus the possibility of 'springing a leak' and having fluid go into an electric motor did not sit well with me. So I scrapped the whole thing, even though it did work. ... just my 2 cents


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

ZenDaddy said:


> PatricioIn,
> 
> Tossed it all in the round file and built this circuit with parts from KTA!
> 
> ...


hey Michael, what is the diode for in this diagram?


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## ZenDaddy (Jul 22, 2008)

Are you are talking about the one on the 12v dc in from the heater switch? It is intended to dissipate "collapse" voltage from the coil. The same purpose as the diode across the 12v control of the main contactor.


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

ok.. so I'm following Gav's instructions for the heater install, except that relay he used was only rated for 10a and my ceramic heater documentation shows it can pull 12.5.. I go all over town and no one to electrical supply shops and no one can even give me on similar to what Gav used, let alone one that can pull 15a. What a PITA.

once again, eBay to the rescue.. open eBay, type in "5-200vdc relay" and get multiple choices.. here's what I bought... $17.50 shipped w/ heat sink (who knew a relay would need a heat sink?).. lol.. for those non electricians in the group, I'm sure you feel my pain.

here's the link to the item: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=350122474339


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