# Azure AC24+UMOC445 only works in Y, not Delta



## otedawg (Apr 23, 2012)

My AC24 and UMOC445 combination in my car are a little under powered while running at 156V in a Y configuration. I've tried to configure it as a Delta/Star, but I haven't been able to get it to work - when I run it hooked up, it acts like it's 2 phasing or something. It makes a serious squeal at low RPM, then only pulls 50A once it's spun up. I can't figure out if this is a motor or controller issue. 

It was correctly wired for delta - 1&6, 2&4, 3&5, and it's correctly wired for Y right now - 1,2,3 4&5&6.

Anyone have any ideas on this? Could it be a controller issue?

It runs fine and makes it to 45mph, but I'd love to be able to get it on the freeway. 

Thanks for the help.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Only a guess, but maybe the motor leads (#1-#6) are labeled wrong.....

Try to check them continuity wise to determine if this is so. 

Then Ohm them out to see if they all are nearly the same.

Everyone makes a mistake sometime...

Miz


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## steven4601 (Nov 11, 2010)

Did you retune the controller settings for the Delta configured motor?


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## otedawg (Apr 23, 2012)

steven4601 said:


> Did you retune the controller settings for the Delta configured motor?


As far as I understand, the controller doesn't have specific WYE and Delta modes. If you know something I don't, could you share?

Miz,
I'll look into this today. I'm wondering if the connections are BAC instead of ABC in the controller. It seems to make sense that that would cause an issue.


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

This may or may not help :

" Motor Power Wires
The three color-coded wires (red, white, and blue or other
similar colors) connect to the motor. For correct operation,
the colors must be matched: red to red, and so forth. If,
during motor wiring or installation, two of the three wires are
reversed, the motor will not operate. This is known as
Phasing.


Motor Phasing
All UMOC’s and Solectria motors have been phased properly
and. motor wire connectors are color-coded before leaving
the factory. Use the color-coded plastic connector housings
to identify wires. For wires without connectors, wires are
identified by color bands or by tags reading “Blue,” “Red” or
“White”, for example.
Unlike standard industrial 3-phase motors, the direction of
rotation is controlled by the microprocessor and cannot be
reversed simply by exchanging wires (except for UMOC’s
without sensors).
Important: to facilitate testing and repair, the colors and
ordering of the controller wires must not be changed. Units
received for repair with the colors and/or wires out of order
will be reset to the original configuration so that they can be
tested. Make any required changes to the motor wires, not to
the controller wires. "


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## steven4601 (Nov 11, 2010)

A motor appears different in Y or D. So to magnetize the rotor it must re-tune its parameters to perform to its max potential.


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## otedawg (Apr 23, 2012)

I spent an hour on Saturday working on this - I took the plate off the motor, disconnected all the leads, and tested continuity. 

All the leads looked correct - 1&4 continuous, 2&5, 3&6. I made sure that I connected everything in a triangle (1&6, 2&4, 3&5), and drove in order (A->B->C). The motor still acted like it was two phasing (squealing low RPM). I double checked that none of the leads were continuous with ground... 

I am starting to pull my hair out. The two different things I've gotten the motor/controller to do are start and move while limiting the current to 45A, and to spin backward when I had the phases hooked up wrong. I wonder if there is something wrong inside the motor case itself.

Thanks to everyone for their help, but it is still acting weird.


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## PThompson509 (Jul 9, 2009)

You should make sure that the controller is indeed putting out power on all three lines to the motor. This will require you to check voltages between the lines into the motor.

And yes, I do think you will need to changes some parameters inside the controller for delta - but I have no idea what. When I switched from delta to wye, I had to send in the controller for them to "reprogram". I suspect it was just modifying some parameters, though.

Hopefully someone who worked there can answer. If not, perhaps it is time for the Scott Controller? (I wish I had the cash to make that switch).


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## otedawg (Apr 23, 2012)

PThompson, 
You wouldn't happen to have any old .par files laying around on your desktop, would you? I've found that people from Azure aren't really working this stuff anymore, and it's mostly up to users to figure things out. I've got the controller working nice, but it does have some quirks as well - it limits current pretty linearly - I'm thinking that's an `artifact` of running in WYE mode.

Thanks for the help!


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## otedawg (Apr 23, 2012)

I hate it when someone leaves a thread unresolved, so I'll resolve this for future people looking. I acquired a correct set of par files, and now the car is peppy in Delta - also, I had to change the wiring configuration to Delta.


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## PThompson509 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sorry, had life get in the way of the internet. No, I lost all my .par files with a disk crash.  I'm glad you got something to make it all work, though.

Cheers, Peter


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