# Your favorite LogiSystems controller dealer



## CPLTECH (Sep 14, 2007)

The time has come to replace my 14 yr old Curtis controller with 12K miles on the clock, however not by choice.
1994 S10 9” ADC motor 120V currently, but may upgrade to 144V.
I’ve spent hours on this computer trying to research reasonably-priced and reliable controllers that are available for shipment now, not some 6 months from now. Great that EVs are gaining in popularity, but OEMs can’t keep up. Seems that Kelly’s by some are not thoroughly proven yet and if I don’t want the Curtis whine, LogiSystems has a nice unit & cost. (144V, 750A unit sounds nice)
So, who has had a good experience with a LogiSystems dealer and at reasonable cost?

Thanks to all


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## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I really like Carlo at EV-SUPPLY.com

Tell him Ben Willis sent you and maybe he'll give you a little bit better deal ;-)


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## Mannyman (Jul 26, 2007)

Mixed results with the Logisystems.

One guy I know removed it from his car because he couldnt ramp down the acceleration, especially for reverse gear. He'd leave skid marks whether he wanted to or not.

Another guy I know blew his up. I wouldn't blame Logisystems as he has blown up a couple of refurbished Curtis controllers as well.

Finally, Joseph at ElectraCity motors loves the controllers more than women and raves about them constantly. He'll meet or beat any price out there plus help out with other questions too.
He's at 760-670-3388 in Escondido, CA.


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## 84bertone (Apr 10, 2008)

Mannyman, I was intrigued with your comment about your friend with a LogiSystems controller and his problem with setting up the ramp. I have a similar problem using a 750 amp LogiSysystems controller. It works fine in a forward gear. However; I have been unable to adjust it for reverse. It will chirp the tires practically every time when I go into reverse.

I had no idea the controller could be causing this. I was of the inclination that the problem was unique to my car due to the gearing in reverse. 

I am a bit baffled as to why the controller would be the culprit. It works fine in a forward gear and the only change iinto reverse is the mechanical change of the transmission which the controller does not sense. Why it works fine in forward but not reverse has me baffled.

Do you or anyone else have any thoughts on this? By the way, I bought mine from EVsource.


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## Mannyman (Jul 26, 2007)

Once the Logisystems was replaced with the old Raptor 1200 the problem went away. Could have done more to lessen the initial thrust, like tweak the pot box, but the owner just didn't feel safe with it. He has kids and the thought of uncontrolled launches in reverse was too much for him.

Your problem sounds like the gear is lower in reverse than in forward, and so you're screwed unless you mess with the potbox (longer throw, etc..) or have Logisystems ramp it down at the factory.

Manny


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

that is one of the drawbacks of non-programmable controllers.... no "valet" mode to decrease the initial torque when in reverse or "valet" mode.


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## installerjack (Jul 25, 2007)

How many battery amps can one expect from a Logisystems 700 amp controller at full throttle?
Jack.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

thats something to ask Logisystems... I don't know how they rate that 700A, if its MAX, continuous (doubtful), and under what conditions (temperature, how long it'l hold that current...etc). For its size, I find it hard to believe that they're convection cooled and quoting zilla-sized specs on the current. Even zilla 1k's are 350A at 50C, logisystems still does not have a cutsheet, so I don't know what they'd do. I talked to Jim at Logisystems, and he didn't really give me much to go by.

also depends on if full throttle is at a full stop, and what motor you're using, and what batteries you're using. If your batteries suck, they won't deliver the amps, or will voltage sag and limit your power.


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## installerjack (Jul 25, 2007)

First, thanks for the info.
That's why I want to know the battery amps so I can size my batteries.
I have converted several cars and bikes to electric but always used contactor controllers.
Sort of new to the electronic controller world.
The way I thought it went was the 700 amps were motor amps.
The programable controllers you can set the battery amps.(From what I hear)
Seems like there has to be a fixed ratio between motor amps and battery amps on these controllers. (What is that ratio)
Like on the Zilla's, you will never have 2000 battery amps on their 2000 amp controller. (Again, from what I have read)
Let me tell you my plan.
Logisystems has such a good price on his 700 amp controllers that I might learn a little and use my first electronic controller. 
I think I actually met Jim one time.
I am building a drag racing Harley. 1966 250 sprint.
It will have four 6.8 HP motors.
I want to have one 700 amp controller for each motor.
These motors turn 10,000 rpm.
Another question, can you use one 0-5K pot for several motors. (I don't think so, but was wondering if anyone has acutally tried.)
So I am planning on using four of the pedal pots ganged together.
I took my first test ride on this bike a couple of days ago.
With one 6V battery (Optima Red) she pulls 800 amps on launch and 400 Amps on cruise. (25mph)
Only two motors mounted so far. That 800 amps is both motors.
At this time I am only concerned with 24V & 48V.
I want those two records in Nedra.
Has anyone used multiple controllers with multiple motors?
Four @ 700 amps might be fun.
I just don't know how electronic controllers compare to contactor controllers but it is time for me to know.
The negatives on the four motors will be tied together.
Their will be one battery plant. (Not sure what size yet, maybe paralled 16ah batteries or one Pfc 1200 or these 6V Optimas with 1000 amp CA. They handle the 800 amp launch with ease at this time.
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
Jack.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

> The way I thought it went was the 700 amps were motor amps.


it is motor side amps that controllers spec MOST, from every controller I've seen.




> Seems like there has to be a fixed ratio between motor amps and battery amps on these controllers. (What is that ratio)


there is, power in is power out + electrical controller loss
So if you have 100V and 100A on the battery side (10,000W) you'll get nearly 10,000W out (i'll ignore battery sag and controller loss for simplicity). So, at 25% PWM, you might get 25V (average) but a MUCH higher output current) for something like 400A. Its not a fixed value, but its limited to the power the batteries can supply. Its dependant on bat power and PWM of the controller. 




> Logisystems has such a good price on his 700 amp controllers that I might learn a little and use my first electronic controller.


I'd get more info from THEM on what their runtime is at 700A, 350A, 100A etc.




> These motors turn 10,000 rpm.


seriously? thats a pretty high RPM, you won't get alot of torque out of them bottom end (when you first start to accelerate).




> The negatives on the four motors will be tied together.


wouldn't recomend it. Each controller is for its own motor. It will screw with the control loop of the controller.


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