# The TesLorean



## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Introducing the TesLorean

TesLorean = Delorean & Tesla

Four years ago this week I got my Delorean with the plan to convert it to electric drive. I wanted to do a conversion project and coming from N. Ireland (now living in Texas) I have a connection with and love for The DeLorean DMC-12.

The plan is to fit the rear motor from a Tesla 70D and replace the DeLorean's V6 PRV engine (105hp at the wheels) and stock transmission.

Lots and lots of engineering, design, programming, and swearing to come.

Jeff


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Cool idea. Good luck. 

major


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## Karter2 (Nov 17, 2011)

Yes, good luck.
It looks like you have many of the main components, and control solutions seem to becomming available.
What is your plan for battery and where to locate it ?
Keep us updated.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

I plan to get as much of the battery split between the old fuel tank location (near frame bottom just forward of the drivers and passengers feet), and the engine bay. The Delorean is set up for a 40% front and 60% rear weight distribution, so I'd like to get as close to that as I can. If I have to I can use some space in the frunk to house batteries, although the AC condenser will be relocating up front (no longer a need to have it in the engine bay).


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## Roderick (Dec 8, 2013)

Very cool, very exciting project! 
Any thoughts on your expected finish spec?(range, battery type, 0-60 etc?)

Look forward to more posts!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Roderick said:


> Very cool, very exciting project!
> Any thoughts on your expected finish spec?(range, battery type, 0-60 etc?)
> 
> Look forward to more posts!


Well there's what I would like and what I think I can reasonable get 

The DeLorean is about 3000 lbs stock (manual), so this configuration will allow the engine and transmission to come out, plus a whole lot more (alternator, belt driven water pump, exhaust, fuel tank, etc.) Of course a lot has to go in, but I'm aiming for equivalent weight 3000 lbs once done.

I'm not so focused on the 0-60, but I think it should be considerably better than stock <10 secs. I would hope for 7 or less.

As far as range is considered I'd like to be able to get around Houston - about as far as I ever took the ICE DeLorean - long road trips in a 35 year old car can be 'interesting'.

I've been holding off on a battery decision. Seems like so many options are becoming available at better prices. I like the idea of OEM because then I've got a replacement path if I need one.


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## Roderick (Dec 8, 2013)

DrJeff said:


> Well there's what I would like and what I think I can reasonable get
> 
> The DeLorean is about 3000 lbs stock (manual), so this configuration will allow the engine and transmission to come out, plus a whole lot more (alternator, belt driven water pump, exhaust, fuel tank, etc.) Of course a lot has to go in, but I'm aiming for equivalent weight 3000 lbs once done.
> 
> ...


I think you are on a perfect track with your target setting. I'd say 7sec will be achieved quite easily with that motor and with 100km capable battery pack. 

Best of luck!


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## BWA (Mar 14, 2015)

Well, that setup should certainly get you back to the future in a hurry.....


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

Did I miss what you intend to use to control that beastie?

Awesome project- subscribed, keeping an eye on progress! Post lots of pics!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Moltenmetal said:


> Did I miss what you intend to use to control that beastie?
> 
> Awesome project- subscribed, keeping an eye on progress! Post lots of pics!


 Control it ? No idea - well no idea that can be bought off the shelf today. But I'm taking the risk that one of several methods will come to fruition... or I build it. My background is software so I'd probably lean towards the CAN route, but the most flexible solutions are likely to be replacement motor drivers.

Once I get organized I'm going to do a forensic-like examination of the motor/inverter, probably most detailed on the inverter to see what I've got and start to get an understanding of the best path(s) forward.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

BWA said:


> Well, that setup should certainly get you back to the future in a hurry.....


I also now have the Bosch iBooster brake system (master cylinder and electronic assist - no vacuum) and the AC compressor, both from the 2015 70D.

Some serious CAN investigating to do. It will be the future before I can get this thing running


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## AntronX (Feb 23, 2009)

Wow, that drivetrain package looks really compact. How much does it weigh?


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

AntronX said:


> Wow, that drivetrain package looks really compact. How much does it weigh?


Weight is measured with a scale but an estimate based on two measurements (sum of weights lifting one side then the other) 210 lbs

Other measurements (again just rough)
- 22 in wide (motor to inverter), 26 3/4in wide including the mount
- trans final gear housing is 8" wide (shaft port to port)
- 13in tall
- 25in front to back, including mount on front and back
- drive shaft to motor centerline ~8in (measured from above)

Jeff


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Figuring out the iBooster brake system - Starting with Physical Wiring

The Black and Yellow-Grey are likely the power to the unit (probably 12v, but sized for high current maybe 20-30 amps). Four wires run between the ECU pedal travel sensors (seem heavy gauge for sensors?). Seen as the four wires running to the connector at the bottom right of the pic.

Only 12 wires in the 26 pin connector. The Green & Green-white and the Yellow-Red & Yellow-Green are likely CAN since they are twisted pairs and of a suitable gauge (talking to the ESP and other systems?) . Both twisted pairs also go through a connector (of sorts) to branch off to addition same colored wiring (again probably CAN).

The solid Red and Red-White are different gauges - not sure of purpose yet. Solid red is the heavier gauge.

The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Figuring out the Tesla AC Compressor - Physical Wiring

The unit has six wires, two are high voltage power (encased in orange). There are four additional wires that run directly to the AC motor control.

In the harness these are colored... Black, Red, White-Red, and White-Brown.

These go through a connector and then route into the motor control on wires colored... Black, Blue, Green, and Red.

None of the wire pairs are twisted - so no CAN control.

Photo shows the bracket and three isolation mounts. The unit has noise reduction covering - think foam. The high pressure connection is already removed.


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## miscrms (Sep 25, 2013)

Awesome project, look forward to following!

Good Luck!
Rob


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## Karter2 (Nov 17, 2011)

DrJeff said:


> Control it ? No idea -
> 
> Once I get organized I'm going to do a forensic-like examination of the motor/inverter, probably most detailed on the inverter to see what I've got and start to get an understanding of the best path(s) forward.


 I assume you have seen and read the other threads from folks working with the Tesla drive train ?
In particular that of "Eldis". Who had focussed on that Tesla inverter/ controller.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152890&highlight=tesla


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

DrJeff said:


> Figuring out the iBooster brake system - Starting with Physical Wiring ...
> 
> The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.


It works!. The iBooster from the Tesla 70D with autopilot. A relatively simple way of providing vacuum-less brake assist to an EV - AND only consumes material power when actually braking - AND quiet.

I made a video last night - but Internet connectivity problems kept me from uploading - coming soon. I left the Yaw (CAN) and CAN2 unconnected (CAN are the twisted pair wires) and just put +12V on the Motor power (yellow-grey), ECU power (Red thick), and Ignition_On (Red thin), plus ground (Black). Tried it with and without Ignition_On. Without ignition_on it does not provide assist, except for the 15-30 seconds just after switching the ignition off. With ignition_on it provides breaking assist immediately.

Now on to the process of figuring out the physical placement and bracing.


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## jetpax (Oct 28, 2013)

Nice project!

I'm planning on using the Tesla 70D drivetrain also, so I plugged the DeLorean into my EVcalc Google spreadsheet, using a Chevy Volt pack, and it looks like a range of [email protected] cruise, max speed 144mph, 0-60 ~4s 

In fact you might be able to get to 88mph in under 7s.

(Bear in mind you have to run the flux capacitor at 20C to get that acceleration  )

If you want to play with the variables here's the link 

(If you want to make serious edits you'll want to make a copy in your G drive)




Good luck!


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## corbin (Apr 6, 2010)

Sweet! Where did you score the motor from? Any ideas for the inverter/controller?


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

jetpax said:


> Nice project!
> 
> I'm planning on using the Tesla 70D drivetrain also, so I plugged the DeLorean into my EVcalc Google spreadsheet, using a Chevy Volt pack, and it looks like a range of [email protected] cruise, max speed 125mph, 0-60 ~4s
> 
> ...


Hi jetpax,

Are you including both motors from the 70D (front and rear). The motor I have is the rear motor from the 70D AWD (two equal sized motors), which is listed as 170kw (or 259HP). Entering this information, looks like it should give ~6 secs 0-60 based on your calculator link. Cool calculator btw.

I think it might come in a little lighter than 3300 lbs. The Tesla drive unit has the advantage of being able to remove the transmission which shaves a few extra pounds.

Thanks
Jeff


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

corbin said:


> Sweet! Where did you score the motor from? Any ideas for the inverter/controller?


The motor is the rear unit from a 70D (AWD). It was recovered from a salvage vehicle.

It looks like the most prospective control option is the UMC 2.0 (or is it 3.0 now) made by Michal Elias.


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## Karter2 (Nov 17, 2011)

DrJeff said:


> The Tesla drive unit has the advantage of being able to remove the transmission which shaves a few extra pounds...
> Jeff


Jeff, ....are you planning to just use the Tesla motor, without the transmission ?
In another thread, it was stated that the motor casing and end plate was an integral part of the trasmission casing ? Have Tesla changed that on these 70D units ??

From the "Fun with Tesla Motor" thread...


eldis said:


> The motor "face" and bearings are a part of the gearbox assembly, plus you have a water jacket through the rotor. So if you somehow hack apart the gearbox cast, you will find a splined shaft entering the gearbox.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Keeping the drive unit transmission, dropping the DeLoreans transmission.


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## jetpax (Oct 28, 2013)

DrJeff said:


> Hi jetpax,
> 
> Are you including both motors from the 70D (front and rear). The motor I have is the rear motor from the 70D AWD (two equal sized motors), which is listed as 170kw (or 259HP). Entering this information, looks like it should give ~6 secs 0-60 based on your calculator link. Cool calculator btw.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jeff, I had difficulty finding the numbers for the rear motor alone.

I've updated the sheet; do you have a source for the max/continuous torque numbers (performance can be torque-bound at low speed) and max RPM ?


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

I haven't seen anything for max/continuous torque, I'll have a dig around.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

I'm removing the stock DeLorean transmission, not the transmission from the Tesla drive unit (sorry, I didn't word the original post the best).

The DeLorean currently has a 5-speed manual transmission. I'm guessing it probably comes in at ~200lbs. Of course removing the stock transmission means the gear shift linkage will go to. I'm not sure about removing the gear stick itself since it will change the look and feel inside the car. I'm playing with the idea of leaving the gear shift lever and just hooking it up to some switches (maybe a new guide plate) and using it for some other purpose. Alternatively, I could remove the gear stick and put in some cup holders in the center console


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## jetpax (Oct 28, 2013)

DrJeff said:


> Weight is measured with a scale but an estimate based on two measurements (sum of weights lifting one side then the other) 210 lbs
> 
> Other measurements (again just rough)
> - 22 in wide (motor to inverter), 26 3/4in wide including the mount
> ...


The inverter especially looks really small compared with the original Model S.

Is it the same as the attached pic, or do you have any more pictures of the motor inverter assembly (ie other side than you posted earlier)?


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

jetpax said:


> The inverter especially looks really small compared with the original Model S.
> 
> Is it the same as the attached pic, or do you have any more pictures of the motor inverter assembly (ie other side than you posted earlier)?


Here are some photos of the inverter (still attached to the drive unit). I added these to my TesLorean album (if you can see that). Not used to uploading photos to DIYElectricCar, so hopefully I've done this right.

Yes the inverter is much smaller that the previous rear drive unit. It is one of the main reasons why the unit will (almost, we'll see) fit into the engine cradle frame in the DeLorean. The larger drive unit would have entailed removing and rebuilding the rear sub-frame of the DeLorean.


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## jetpax (Oct 28, 2013)

Thanks Jeff.

My calculations suggest the torque number from a single 'new' motor must indeed be around 330Nm to achieve the performance that Tesla claim for the 90D, (which is half the published torque number, so that adds up) and its likely that this could be obtained from the 70D motor.

With the weight of the Model S this would mean only a grade of 19% so not great in hilly areas; however, if you can really keep your weight around 1500kg, you should be good for a 29% slope and a sub 6s 0-60.

And with a Chevy Volt pack it'll be good for [email protected]

Nice!


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## Karter2 (Nov 17, 2011)

Jeff, Re you pictures of the inverter....
... Is that some kind of foil shield wrapped around the inverter ??


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

The foil sheild looks like noise reduction layering - a gummy rubber like layer and then a layer of foil. I've used sheets like that on the DeLorean sold by Eastwood, for noise and heat shielding.


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## Karter2 (Nov 17, 2011)

??? Maybe some kind of "RF containment" /sheild to isolate the inverter from any other electronic gear located in the rear of the Tesla ?


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Karter2 said:


> ??? Maybe some kind of "RF containment" /sheild to isolate the inverter from any other electronic gear located in the rear of the Tesla ?


I don't show it in these photos of the drive unit, but the motor also had a thick matting and heavy rubber 'sock' around it (removed for photos).

I wonder if Tesla went the extra length to guard against any noise from the drive unit - perhaps with all the attention on the grinding noise, they didn't want to be replacing units that are making a quite normal level and types of noises - i.e. leading to expensive misdiagnoses.

There's also now high expectations of how quiet the Tesla should be, and of course noise volumes are relative (a small noise can be perceived as louder if there is no background noise).


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## Karter2 (Nov 17, 2011)

Anything is possible, but i cannot imagine much mechanical noise coming from the inverter. And i understood the "grinding noise" issue was identified as coming from the transmission area ?
By shere coincidence, a pal of mine was waiting for a cab in the city yesterday, when a Mod S litterally came to a "grinding halt" right beside him.
His comment was that it sounded horrible, like a set of brakes with no pads fitted ! The driver had to park it, and looked very worried !


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

jetpax said:


> Nice project!
> 
> I'm planning on using the Tesla 70D drivetrain also, so I plugged the DeLorean into my EVcalc Google spreadsheet, using a Chevy Volt pack, and it looks like a range of [email protected] cruise, max speed 144mph, 0-60 ~4s
> 
> ...


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## jetpax (Oct 28, 2013)

No worries, fixed now.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Website for the project / blog went live today...

www.TesLorean.com


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

If you haven't seen it yet Jason Hughes, (wk057), has accomplished full Tesla drivetrain control, among other Tesla hacks.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

No worries, I'm closely following WK057. Control of the Tesla drive unit is very promising. I wish I could fit the large drive into the Delorean ( and still look like a Delorean ), but it's the AWD rear drive unit for me.


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## sailfish11 (Sep 15, 2007)

Great project - I look forward to following your progress. Since you're using the Tesla drivetrain, why not use Tesla cells too? They are easy to find on EBay, and relatively cheap. They can be reconfigured to double their voltage (so 48v per module instead of 24), allowing you achieve input voltage with only half the modules. It would still cost more than the Volt cells, but would probably double your range. They're also much lighter than the Volt's, giving you better acceleration.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

The reconfigured Tesla modules could work. I'd certainly like to see some feedback on actual usage. The biggest challenge is space and weight distribution. 7-8 modules mean taking up engine bay and the DeLoreans frunk. Even with good weight distribution, battery placement is likely to raise the center of gravity to a greater height.


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## sailfish11 (Sep 15, 2007)

I've got 7 of the 48v (12s) modules, but I won't be running them in my car until September. If be happy to let you know how it goes then. 

If they can be modified to 48v (12s) then maybe they can be modified to 96v (24s) too, then you'd only need 3-4 of them. 4 modules would give you over 21 kWh and weigh just over 200 lbs. 

Something to think about anyway. Pm me if you'd like me to put you in touch with the guy that modified them for me.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Quick update on the TesLorean project...

Lots of powder coating on rear suspension parts and calipers. Getting closer to putting the wheel back on and starting the body/frame separation. Surprising what you can achieve with a toaster over, besides just toast.

Got some new Tesla parts 1) Tesla PTC Heater (electric air heater), and 2) Tesla HVJB . The design previously called for the same coolant loop that cooled/heated the drive unit & batteries to also heat the cabin, but after further study the heat from the drive unit / batteries would not show up fast enough to aid in defrosting the windows. This removes the need for a coolant loop into the airbox, so the coolant loops can stay with the batteries and drive unit. The Delorean airbox will need to be modified to accommodate the PTC heater.


Jeff


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Since the Delorean is a 35 year old car, rather than just convert it to electric, it is begs to do more... renew components (rubber bushings), upgrade original parts (bolts subject to premature failure), and improve on the design in preparation for E demands.

Key changes...
- poly bushing and inconel bolt on the trailing arm
- new bushings throughout
- rebuilt caliper and upgraded lines
- adjustable shocks

Still rebuilding the parking brake.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

*In preparation for frame-body separation*

I've been running down through the checklist to separate the DeLorean body from the frame. Got everything done apart from getting the wheels back on and the stick shift lever freed.

The stainless is a skin that sits on top of a fiberglass 'tub' (you can see it here as the black structure), which then mounts on top of the frame. The suspension, engine, and transmission are all mounted to the frame (the parts epoxy coated in grey).

Once I get the body and frame separated, I'll remove the engine and transmission, and then start positioning the Tesla small rear motor - to measure for drive axles and mounts.


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## Electric A1 (Oct 16, 2016)

*Re: In preparation for frame-body separation*

Wow, as far as conversion projects I think this is about as cool as they come!


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## darrenmars (Oct 17, 2016)

Awesome project idea! I've been thinking of using an MR2 myself, but this really is a cool idea. Will be following!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Tesla steering wheel control buttons - DECODED

Some background... Tesla Model S steering column is a Mercedes Benz unit. The control buttons in the steering wheel pad talk LIN (via the clock spring) on three wires back to the circuit on the main column. The main column then talks CAN to the rest of the car.

To start with I tried (without success) to wake up the steering column (with CAN messages) and get it to send CAN frames when the steering pad or control stalks were used. The only buttons that sent CAN were the steering column position adjuster and the P'ark button. Even so, activating any of these sent out a stream of CAN messages, but for every CAN frame containing useful data, there were 100s of frames with nothing useful (3 second long stream of crap frames).

I decided to interface directly with the (19200 baud) LIN messages coming from the steering pad controls. LIN is not as easily approachable as CAN, but I eventually got it to work. The steering wheel pad and control buttons can be removed and disconnected from the clock spring.

I used...

1) LIN-BUS (from skpang, via CopperHill Technologies in the US (http://copperhilltech.com/lin-bus-breakout-board/)
- Essentially just protects the Arduino from the 12v LIN bus. You supply it with 12v, it powers up the LIN connection, and then it outputs a TX/RX 5v connection for the Arduino. Finally got it going after figuring out that CS (chip select) needed to be 12v to activate the chip.

2) Modified code from Andrew Stone on Github 
(https://github.com/gandrewstone/LIN)
- Andrews LIN code was very helpful, but I did need to back out his demo code specifically designed to talk to two LIN-enabled multicolored LEDs. My new main code prompts LIN-slave chips on the steering pad buttons for a response. LIN is a prompt and response network, so the Arduino stands in for the Master node. (Note: I tried using the LIN-BUS code by zapta on github, but I was unable to get it to be reliable for this application. It attempts, by using interrupts and clever timing, to make a digital pin on the Arduino act like a serial RX pin.)

3) I also used an Arduino Mega (with additional hardware serial ports - other than the one used to talk back to the PC via the USB port). The LIN-BUS is connected to the Serial1 pins 18,19 on the Arduino.

The Arduino code acts as a Master node in the 'steering pad' LIN network. It sends out a request with the ID 0X3D, and gets 8 bytes (1 ID byte and 7 data bytes) in response back from the LIN slaves in the steering pad. Depending on which buttons are pressed / wheels rolled, the bytes of the response are modified.

My TesLorean goal in all this is to replace the stock DeLorean steering wheel with the Tesla wheel. I will also be using the Tesla stalks for PNDR and indicators/beams/wipers. The LIN messages from the steering pad will be combined with the stalk control signals to produce TesLorean CAN messages for the main computer (which will link to the motor controller, battery BMS, charger, etc).

=============================
LIN Network Responses

ID + 7 bytes

Baseline
=======
Prompt 0x12 Receive ID 0x00 and 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
(while the steering pad responds to prompt id 0x12, returned data is always 00,...,00
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Horn ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 00 01 82 80 00 00 00

Voice & Right Up ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x08 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Menu Back & Right Down ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x20 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Scroll Wheel Right Press ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x10 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Scroll Wheel Right Down ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 3C 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 1 click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 38 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 2 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 34 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 3 clicks)
...
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 20 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down N clicks)

Scroll Wheel Right Up ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 04 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 1 click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 08 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 2 clicks)
...

Forward & Left + ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x01 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Back & Left - ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x04 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Scroll Wheel Left Press ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x02 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Scroll Wheel Left Down ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0xC0 and 03 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 1 click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x80 and 03 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 2 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x40 and 03 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 3 clicks)
...
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0xC0 and 02 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down N click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x80 and 02 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down N+ clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x40 and 02 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down N++ clicks)

Scroll Wheel Left Up ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x40 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 1 click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x80 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 2 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0xC0 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 3 clicks)
...
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x40 and 01 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up N clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x80 and 01 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up N+ clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0xC0 and 01 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up N++ clicks)


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Very impressive work.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

*The TesLorean - Brusa NLG513 Charger*

I got the Brusa NLG513 charger setup and running (but funky window size problem).

IF ANYONE HAS... a charge profile for a 2014 Chevy Spark A123 battery pack, I'd be very interested!!!

Good info in the YouTube video from Damien Maguire on Brusa connection (note: Pin 15 is ground for the RS232 on the AMPseal connector)

I did run into the Windows not releasing the COM1 port properly (or ChargeStar not recognizing correctly that it was released). To get it 'Released' the first time - I used Windows Hyperterminal and connected to COM1 and then exited so that COM1 was released on exit. ChargeStar doesn't release COM1 (correctly - or windows ignores it), so you need to open-close-open ChargeStar when you next want to connect.

I did not have to hook the charger up to Mains power (120-240 volts) to get the charger to respond to RS232. I just applied the GND on pin 1 and +12v on Pins 2 and 3. Pin 3 is PON (power on) which the manual says can be used for programming if the mains is not connected.

When I read from or write to the Brusa, once the operation is completed the application window resizes (to about 1/2 height). Nothing I did could get it to resize - which is necessary to see the input/output data at the bottom half of the app. I think I can work around it by loading/saving profiles between reading/writing to the Brusa.

Jeff


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## SWF (Nov 23, 2007)

Are you planning to implement an automated precharging circuit for the NLG513 charger, as recommended by Metric Mind? I was not aware of this requirement for these chargers until recently, and would prefer to have a completely disconnected traction pack except when charging and discharging. I would think that most people would have a manual safety disconnect switch plus contactors in place to disconnect the pack, and the only way to avoid an automatic precharging circuit is to have the charger permanently connected to the pack circuit before these devices.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

*A123 Battery Pack from 2014 Chevy Spark*

Starting the teardown of the 2014 Chevy Spark A123 Battery Pack.

Some features...
- Pack composed of 4 modules, two in front of the rear axle and two behind. Battery box tunnel straddles the rear axle.
- Coolant plate under the front two modules and another under the rear two modules.
- Temp sensors on the coolant lines and what may be a small heater
- Contactors in the neck
- BMS modules appear to be on either end of the battery modules.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

*2014 Chevy Spark Module Voltages*

There are four identical A123 battery modules in the 2014 Chevy Spark EV. I measured the voltage on each module and got 92.4 - exactly the nominal module voltage, for a pack voltage of 370v.

Jeff


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

*The TesLorean - Battery Pack Control*

I recently completed a test to control the contactors in the A123 battery pack from a 2014 Chevy Spark.

[Caution: Please do not work with high voltage batteries without sufficient knowledge, precautions, safety protection and equipment. In this demo the pack is closed but HV is still present external to the pack. This can be very dangerous.]

demo here

The Spark has four connectors (technically 5 including a body ground connection). Two are HV (drive unit - large, charger - small) and two are LV (contactors control, data links).

X358 (LV connector found in the neck)
1 BLK High voltage interlock loop low reference
2 VIO High voltage interlock loop signal
5 BLK Body Ground - Relay pin 6 (or 2) on all Contractors
Note: Means that all Relay pins are 12v to activate contactors
7 VIO/GRY EV PCM Batt (-) relay to battery negative contactor
8 GRY/BLU EV PCM Batt (+) relay to multifunction Contactor
9 WHT/BRN EV PCM to Pre-Charge Contactor
10 BRN/GRN EV PCM Batt 1 (+) relay to battery positive contactor
11 WHT/BRN EV PCM Batt (-) relay to batt Charging Sys Neg Contactor
12 YEL/VIO EV PCM Batt (+) relay to battery Charging Sys Pos Contactor
14 VIO Auxiliary heater control
Note: May switch on the auxiliary coolant heater

I wanted to be able to use the OEM contactors in the pack to connect the battery to the charger. The 'neck' of the battery pack contains a pre-charger circuit and contactors for both the battery to driveline connection, and for battery to charger. Connector X358 has lines that set the appropriate contactors.

To connect the battery to the charger HV connection I did the following...

Sequence 1
X358-1 to Ground (pack ground)
X358-2 to 12v (pack 12v)
X358-5 to Ground (acts as the ground for all the contactors in the neck)

Sequence 2
X358-9 to 12v (pre-charge contactor)
X358-11 to 12v (charger negative contactor)
X358-8 to 12v (multifunction contactor)
Pause
X358-12 to 12v (charger positive contactor)
X358-9 to Open (pre-charge contactor)

Sequence 3
X358-12 to Open (charger positive contactor)
X358-8 to Open (multifunction contactor)
X358-11 to Open (charger negative contactor)

Sequence 4
X358-5 to Open (contactors' ground)
X358-2 to Open (12v to pack)
X358-1 to Open (ground for pack)

This will make the connection from the Battery Pack to the Charger, another set of contactors (not using the pre-charger circuit) enables the battery connection to the drive unit (power distribution) using pins 7 and 10 listed above.

Jeff


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## Murderjetz (Oct 6, 2013)

Very cool project! I'm looking forward to seeing what you'll do with the battery pack. I love the idea of splitting it between front and rear to improve weight distribution, but it seems to me that this could considerably complicate the design in certain aspects.
Subscribed!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Murderjetz said:


> Very cool project! I'm looking forward to seeing what you'll do with the battery pack. I love the idea of splitting it between front and rear to improve weight distribution, but it seems to me that this could considerably complicate the design in certain aspects.
> Subscribed!


I will be splitting the battery pack into two parts (which it essentially already is), but they will both continue to sit at the rear of the DeLorean - one half in front of the rear axle and the other half behind the rear axle. Splitting the pack is just to accommodate the available space in the DeLorean engine bay.

In the Chevy Spark 2 (of 4) modules sit in front of the rear axle, and 2 (of 4) modules sit behind the rear axle. Between the two halves are...

a) coolant flow lines
b) HV lines
c) BMS lines (rear submodules to the front master module)

In the DeLorean the two halves will be about 2 ft further apart than they are in the Chevy Spark. I will be keeping the two halves/frame/case intact and just running longer coolant, HV, and BMS lines between the two modules. I've almost reverse engineered enough about the packs operation that my plan is to use it in OEM mode, i.e. leave it 'functionally intact'.

Jeff


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## Murderjetz (Oct 6, 2013)

DrJeff said:


> I will be splitting the battery pack into two parts (which it essentially already is), but they will both continue to sit at the rear of the DeLorean - one half in front of the rear axle and the other half behind the rear axle. Splitting the pack is just to accommodate the available space in the DeLorean engine bay.
> 
> In the Chevy Spark 2 (of 4) modules sit in front of the rear axle, and 2 (of 4) modules sit behind the rear axle. Between the two halves are...
> 
> ...


Sounds like a solid plan. With the two halves fairly far apart, would you have separate contactors and fuses for each half?
My background is with the Formula SAE Electric competition, where the competition rules require that if separate battery packs/containers are used, each one must have 2 contactors and 1 main fuse. I think that all of the competition rules are overkill just to make things extra safe, but I'm not sure what the standard practice is in the real world.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

The coolant pumps out of the Tesla (2015 Model S 70D) are VariMax Intercooler Pumps. Listed for "C4 Corvette 1985-1996" by Lingenfelter Engineering.

They have four control lines...
+12v and GND, PWM and Signal.
PWM is a 5v, 2Hz signal (2 cycles per second)
(switching on for 0.25 secs, and off for 0.25 secs will set speed to 50%)
Signal is PWM-like and indicates the pump speed. **I controlled it with a simple 5v digital pin on an Arduino.

"- Target flow rate 720 LPH @ 70 kPa 
- Inlet / Outlet connection: 19 MM Barb 
- Motor syle: Brushless 
- Operating voltage: 8-16 VDC 
- Maximum amp draw: 7.3 Amp with RSDS Software"

It has soft start which means that on applying 12v or adjusting the PWM signal it slowly speeds up or slows down as necessary.

Jeff


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

The Tesla has a number of coolant diverter valves, one of which is 4 way : TMN 6007370-00-B (two ins, switched between two outs), and others are 3 way : TMN 6007384-00-B (one in, switching between two outs).

The 4-port valve is used to connect the coolant flow into 1 continuous large loop or separate it into 2 smaller loops. Useful for heating/cooling just the battery unit - distinct from whatever the temp of the driveunit. The 3-oprt is used to bypass the radiator and another to bypass the coolant chiller.

The valves are listed as PWM controlled, but this is not correct. There are four wires, +12v and Gnd, Signal and Control. Rather than being PWM, Control should switch between Ground and +12v to switch flow from one outlet to the other (for both the 3 and 4 port valves). Signal indicates value position - but need not be connected for valve control purposes.

3-Port
TMN 6007384-00-B
Electrical Actuated 3/4" 3-port
TMN G9361-0R010
H42M-9000-000

4-Port
TMN 6007370-00-B
Electrical actuated 3/4" 4-port
Invensys 15B16
Motor actuator (12v)
127-00033-001 (90)
H42M-8000-000


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Tesla Small Motor (rear) Dimensions

(Someone contacted me "Nick D" but I didn't catch the return email address in the request [website glitch] - so I'm hoping he subscribed to this thread.)

Insofar as I can tell the small rear and front motors are very similar in size. Based on visual inspection, the front motor differs slightly in the casing (mostly around the final drive casing). The front motor also has a mount for a lay (intermediate) shaft.

Measurements were taken with a measuring tape, and thus are inaccurate (vs with a giant caliper).

Front to Rear (incl mounts) 24.5in
Width (motor edge to inverter edge) 24in
Note: inverter needs additional space to the side (~2in) for power lines in and coolant connections
Width mount (mount located on the side of the motor) adds 4in
Weight ~200lbs
Motor & Inverter diameter ~11in
"Transmission" is ~15 in at widest.

Orientation of the motor must remain as in original Tesla (i.e. front to rear direction), reportedly to maintain oil pump and flow in the transmission. Rear motor leads (to front) with the transmission, front drive unit leads (to front) with the motor/inverter.

PS. I have tried (bought and now stored for posterity in my garage) multiple non-Tesla OEM axles with a 29 spline connection to the drive unit. Unfortunately the aftermarket axle companies give insufficient information about the other critical dimensions. Based on my research (including bought axles) I have found none that fit the Tesla drive unit. It appears (but non-exhaustive testing) that all the Tesla axles (large and small motors) use the same inner CV joint dimensions.


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## NickNok (Mar 31, 2017)

DrJeff said:


> Tesla Small Motor (rear) Dimensions
> 
> (Someone contacted me "Nick D" but I didn't catch the return email address in the request [website glitch] - so I'm hoping he subscribed to this thread.)
> 
> ...



Jeff.. I am amazed that I JUST found your thread. So Random..

Thank you for the information and taking the time to reply. 

From you measurements my project is indeed possible. Best of luck with your project.

Nick.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

I've been doing some work on the Tesla DCDC Converter (from a 2015 70D).

The board is made by Delta, who make all manner of power electronics including motors for EVs. Interestingly the board did not include a Tesla part number or logo, like I've found on other 3rd party components that Tesla must have had a hand in designing.

Interestingly I was not able to locate an ASIC or CANbus chip? I might be located on the opposite side of the board. There are 4 HVIL connections, 2 through the low voltage connector and 2 through the high voltage connector. The HVIL pins in the connector are just a loop inside the connector to make sure that it (the connector) is in place.

Here are some of the CHIP identifiers (so far as I could read) and my guesses at their purpose...

1) 24 pin IC located centrally : UCC28950Q Texas Instr 45TG? C05Q
- phase shift controller

2) IC13 : K44T 441 FR and IC15 : K437 444 QG
- opto couplers

3) IC221 : 158Y EZ439
- voltage regulator

4) IC305 : 0143 28T 52510S?
- digitial analog converter

5) L301 : B82793 S513 N EPCOS 4381
- signal line filter

As yet I haven't been able to get any CAN out of the unit. But I haven't hooked up a HV source yet. I need to keep messing with the HVIL signals to see if I can get them set up as per an installed unit.

There's a chance it looks for CANbus frames related to HVIL, battery status, or other components. I've got some Tesla CAN logs, but nothing from a 70D. If you've got a 70D log, I'd be very interested in getting use of it.

Thanks
Jeff


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## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

I was watching the EVTV episode that mentions Tesla chargers and it seems no one has been able to hack them yet. everything else has been hacked so i would think its just a matter of time. I'm thinking about buying one while their value seems to be pretty limited, once theyve been hacked DIYers will hunt them out. 
EVTV Jack seems pretty nervous about the batteries so having a tesla charger, tesla bms and tesla drive unit might be a safe way to keep things in check. 
love your build and updates, inspired by you i bought the tesla bosch iBooster. Keep it up!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Now that I have a design for the battery pack location in the DeLorean, I was able to find the final position for the motor. Previously the motor sat further forward (in the space once occupied by the transmission) and tipped nose down about 40 degrees. Now the motor will sit over the engine cradle with the transmission tipped nose down about 25 degrees. This lessens the angle on the half-shafts.

The motor mount at the side of the motor was removed and put back to avoid obstruction. It will still be used, but a bracket will attached to the side of the motor to allow the rubber mount to move to a less awkward position.

The half shafts are 22in and 25in, so closer in length than previously, also removing the potential for a lay shaft.

This creates some space in front of the motor which might accommodate a pump or other non-HV unit.

The Chevy Spark EV battery pack will be split into 3 parts, front 2 modules, rear 2 modules, and controller neck. I'll be using the existing shell (carbon fiber) and supports, with modifications to maintain the waterproofing after splitting. The two front modules will sit behind the rear axle where oil pan and exhaust used to be. The rear two modules will sit directly above the engine cradle and motor, in the location previously occupied by the intake manifold. The weight won't be quite as low or as central as I'd like, but it won't be all that far from the original DeLorean weight distribution. I'm putting misc electronics and HV (ac compressor, dcdc, heater, chiller, etc.) in the prior fuel tank area.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Mounts for the Tesla drive unit (motor, inverter, transmission) completed (although not painted yet). The welding is ugly but functional.

I used the existing engine and transmission mounting points for the new front and rear brackets. The Tesla motor has rubber mounting bushings built-in front and rear. I attached the Tesla side mount to the DeLorean frame and made a bracket to adapt the drive unit mount points to the new side mount location.

The drive unit sits more to the left than right for two reasons, 1) the high voltage (400v) DC power cables enter at the bottom right (just forward of the existing RHS motor mount), and 2) to shift the differential as close to center as possible. In the Tesla the rear motor is positioned to the left hand side to leave the differential equidistant from the wheels (in the front-wheel drive Tesla's they use a lay shaft). With the DeLorean engine cradle, the half-axles will be 1-2 inches longer on the LHS than the RHS.

The Tesla motor can produce 250 ftlb at 0 RPM, so the drive unit will be pulling up on the front mount and pushing down on the rear mount. The side mount is principally for stability.

The drive unit is tipped down about 20 degrees (from the level mount found in the Tesla). This is well within the 45 degree limit for the oil pickup. The position was selected to provide clearance for the half-shafts.

Next up axle measurements. Custom axles are needed to accommodate Tesla differential inner CV and DeLorean rear hub outer CV connections.

Jeff
TesLorean.com


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## Gigawatts (Aug 8, 2013)

Awesome motor mounts, they look great! Hopefully custom axles won't be too expensive.


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## 217801 (Jun 13, 2017)

Awesome build. Best thing you could have done was get rid of that God awful PRV engine. Horrid things they were


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Time to start to document the build and figure out the fine details of how all these Tesla and other bits are going to fit into the car and where.

Obviously the DriveUnit has been mounted, and I've planned out the battery modules carefully. But, it seems like there are 50 other units that need to fit into the vary small spaces afforded by the DeLorean.










The trunk area (where the engine used to be) will actually have a trunk area, probably big enough for one suitcase (larger than the standard front trunk area). I lose the frunk (front trunk) to batteries, charger, battery control, etc.

The old gas tank area will be jammed with miscellaneous valves, pumps, ac compressor, junction boxes etc.

Next up is to plan the routing of the high voltage lines, coolant lines, control lines (12v and CAN), refrigerant lines. And then, to decommission all the unused wiring loom (of which there is a lot!) and add in new circuits for power supply.

The attached PDF document captures some of the layers of system design for the conversion. Any and all comments on the design are welcome. Still lots of work to do...


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Wow, very impressive!
After reading through your entire topic again I am also interested in using such an iBooster. Skipping a noisy vacuum pump and external brake servo sounds very interesting.
I saw you have a "Bosch Accelero meter" hooked up via CAN to the booster. What exactly will that do? I assume you won't be using the ECU that used to be connected to the booster.

I'll send you a message to ask some more questions that might be too much off topic.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

iBooster dimensions...










I've noticed that the shape (dimensions) of the brake fluid tank differs between iBooster pictures (on the web). I assume they are shaped specifically to the car. The dimensions listed in the picture are for an iBooster from a 2015 Model S 70D. The two measurements (on the same axis) are to/from where the iBooster meets the firewall. My tank looks longer that the one shown in the picture.

I'm leaving the iBooster unchanged (same ECU attached to it). It appears to provide 'default' braking assistance when powered up and even if CAN is missing. This makes sense as a fail safe mode. You wouldn't want to loose brake assistance because the CAN frames dropped. I have found nothing, zero, nada on the web about the CAN traffic that the iBooster looks for. Intelligent control at this stage is not possible.

The iBooster has two separate CAN links (two pairs). One pair is connected to the IVD Sensor (Yaw/Roll/Acceleration). The accelerometer (IVD) is a Bosch module positioned in the middle of the Model S floorpan. It measures about 1in square. It is only connected to the Stability Control module and the iBooster. The other CAN pair goes to one of the general vehicle CAN networks.

When the IVD is provided with 12v & GND it immediately starts producing CAN frames. I captured and decoded these more than a year ago. They report rotation around 3 axis (XYZ) and acceleration/deceleration. It is probably only connected to Stability Control and the iBooster because of the frequency of frames it produces and the importance of getting messages to these systems without interference.

I will be connecting the IVD up to the iBooster to see if it modifies it's performance. It will be interesting to see if the fail safe mode differs between seeing the IVD and not the Vehicle CAN, and no CAN at all.

Jeff



oudevolvo said:


> Wow, very impressive!
> After reading through your entire topic again I am also interested in using such an iBooster. Skipping a noisy vacuum pump and external brake servo sounds very interesting.
> I saw you have a "Bosch Accelero meter" hooked up via CAN to the booster. What exactly will that do? I assume you won't be using the ECU that used to be connected to the booster.
> 
> I'll send you a message to ask some more questions that might be too much off topic.


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## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

Im enjoying your build. 
I bought an iBooster from a 2014 Tesla Model S because of your thread on them. Looking for info has been tough. I even rang Tesla who wouldnt give me anything. I emailed Bosch and they said they dont have the details, Tesla does. I was looking for the Bore dimensions when workiing out what to do with the brake calipers. Its one inch by the way. I had to get a special socket and take it apart, very nerve racking, i hoped it would go back together without new seals. 
I dont have the IVD though so will be curious about the outcome. I have an arduino and CAN shield and have this week begun to learn about programming them. I wonder if there is a way to check the ibooster to see what CAN messages it wants. When i get better at it (probably not in the next 6 months) i'll plus it in and have a crack. 

Keep up the great work, like you i have some tesla modules to put around the car and will be stuffing some of the smaller bits in the holes left over by the ICE stuff. I hope to keep the weight distribution the same or more balanced. 

Glenn


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
How heavy is your car?
In the old days we didn't have brake boosters - and with an unique build like yours you could use two master cylinders and a balance bar to get optimum braking for your weight distribution

My car is 900 Kg with me in it - the brakes do feel a bit heavy at first but you get used to it very fast and I have more than enough braking power without any boost at all


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

itchyback said:


> Im enjoying your build.
> I bought an iBooster from a 2014 Tesla Model S because of your thread on them. Looking for info has been tough. I even rang Tesla who wouldnt give me anything. I emailed Bosch and they said they dont have the details, Tesla does. I was looking for the Bore dimensions when workiing out what to do with the brake calipers. Its one inch by the way. I had to get a special socket and take it apart, very nerve racking, i hoped it would go back together without new seals.
> I dont have the IVD though so will be curious about the outcome. I have an arduino and CAN shield and have this week begun to learn about programming them. I wonder if there is a way to check the ibooster to see what CAN messages it wants. When i get better at it (probably not in the next 6 months) i'll plus it in and have a crack.
> 
> ...


The challenge with figuring out what CAN frames the iBooster pays attention to, comes from the nature of the CAN protocol. Many modules on a CAN network send out frames... Broadcasting, but these frames are not addressed, that is... There is no way to know which other modules are listening.

So figuring it out means, capturing CAN traffic, playing it back to the network, and by exclusion of frames trying to figure out which combination of frames are necessary for a module to work correctly. This quickly becomes a combinatorics problem as there are hundreds of frames IDs and millions of combinations, and with a module like the I booster it's difficult to test when it's working or not.

It is likely that Bosch makes the iBooster so that the Tesla or other company can redefine what frames IDs are used... To avoid ID conflicts with other modules. Bosch probably know what the default frame IDs are, but Tesla most likey will have changed these. If the Bosch firmware is flexible they probably also allow the structure of the frames to be modified (number of data bytes etc).

The next best bet is to replace the control board in the iBooster so as to define the control protocol. This however is a very skilled task and not one to be taken lightly given the importance of brakes.

Failing all else, operation in fail safe mode is not a bad option, although lots of testing is required to understand how the iBooster will operate over many conditions. It will likely still assume it's in a Tesla 6000lb vehicle.

I haven't connected up CAN to the non-IVD output, but that would be an interesting test to see if the iBooster broadcasts any interesting information.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Duncan said:


> Hi
> How heavy is your car?
> In the old days we didn't have brake boosters - and with an unique build like yours you could use two master cylinders and a balance bar to get optimum braking for your weight distribution
> 
> My car is 900 Kg with me in it - the brakes do feel a bit heavy at first but you get used to it very fast and I have more than enough braking power without any boost at all


The Delorean is about 2800lbs. The Teslorean should be roughly the same, maybe 200lbs heavier when done.

I've limited space near the brake booster sure to the addition of electric power steering, so the iBooster offers the option of small size and no vacuum required.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Ran some CAN tests on the iBooster tonight...

It doesn't appear to produce any CAN frames at all, either on the YAW lines, or on the Vehicle CAN lines. It may be a device that only provides data on request (waits for a prompting frame), or perhaps only when certain conditions arise.

I also hooked up the YAW sensor's CAN to the CAN inputs on the iBooster (as configured in the car), but the iBooster still did not produce any CAN. Hard to say for sure, but it felt like the brake pedal stroke was smoother when the YAW sensor was attached (or it could be wishful thinking).

Jeff


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

I've been working on the Instrument Cluster recently. I had planned to keep the stock DeLorean instrument cluster and figure out how to drive the gauges to display EV information. The challenges were non trivial and beyond my capacity to develop robust circuits that could handle the digital to 12v analog jump (like driving the tach meter with frequent 40v spikes).

As luck would have it, Rodolfo/81DMC on the DMCTalk.org forum, posted his custom instrument gauge. He had a new gauge printed up by Black Cat Custom Automotive. He did have to develop the graphics file (in Adobe Illustrator). Since his car is ICE, he used new digital(ish) gauges to replace the originals.

I was able to start with Rodolfo's file and repurpose the dash configuration to be suitable for EV information. Here's the design...










I'm using OEM GM stepper motors for the gauges, with stepper motor drivers from adafruit.

The warning icons are...
(4 designs by my brother-in-law)
Left : Seatbelt, Door Ajar
Right : Steering EPS fault, Traction battery low, Tesla Drive unit error, Traction pack error, brake.

I used Inkscape (free) to edit the Adobe Illustrator file. Still some editing to do to get the warning icons positioned mm perfect and to check the likely temp ranges once the car is functional.

Jeff


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## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

I'm wading through this quagmire now also. its my night time project while i cant be noisy cutting and welding things.

I have 6 stepper motors, some drivers, an arduino and a headache from trying to understand programming. 

I'm trying to drive the stepper motors from the CAN signals from the control module i have. all the data is in there, i just have to get it to the guages. 
Thanks for sharing this thread, i'm going to go over it with a fine tooth comb tonight. 

I want speed, motor amps, motor temp, battery voltage (fuel guage), battery temp and power usage.

I see EVTV sells can guages, but i think theyre ugly, at $800 theyre expensive and i dont know if they would work with the module i have. 

Let me know what success you have. What will you use to control the Tesla motor? Elias? EVTV? someone else?


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## Knightgreider (Jul 29, 2015)

Wow this project is impressive. I love the Gauge cluster mockup. I want to see more! This is exactly what I was thinking for my Scirocco project. 

I'm eager to see where this goes!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Big milestone today... half axles installed connecting the Tesla small motor drive unit to the DeLorean rear hub/wheels.

Adapters to the Tesla differential were machined from Tesla S/X axles. The axles were made by TheDriveShaftShop and are good for 800hp. The axles mirror the original DeLorean setup (although the lengths are different).

Looking from above the DeLorean rear engine bay at the Tesla small rear motor, the adpaters, CV joints, and axles.









Looking down the trailing arm at the rear right wheel. Axle, CV joint, and tone ring fitted.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

DrJeff said:


> The axles were made by TheDriveShaftShop and are good for 800hp.


That's a strange way to express the capacity of an axle, but I can see why they do it. It should be a maximum torque, but most people won't take the few seconds to calculate their maximum torque to the wheel, so they roughly approximate it to an engine power, which assumes both a tire diameter and a road speed.


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## nucleus (May 18, 2012)

brian_ said:


> That's a strange way to express the capacity of an axle, but I can see why they do it. It should be a maximum torque, but most people won't take the few seconds to calculate their maximum torque to the wheel, so they roughly approximate it to an engine power, which assumes both a tire diameter and a road speed.


Thank you Brian, that was bothering me as well. I doubt they could handle 800 HP at .5 RPM for instance!


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

nucleus said:


> Thank you Brian, that was bothering me as well. I doubt they could handle 800 HP at .5 RPM for instance!


Exactly! 

At 0.5 RPM, 800 hp would be 8.4 million lb-ft of torque 

More likely, they're thinking that an engine that puts out 800 hp at 7000 to 8000 rpm might put out up to 700 lb-ft of torque at 5000 rpm. Multiply that by a first gear ratio (of about 3:1) and final drive ratio (of about 3:1) and you have around 7000 lb-ft of torque to the rear wheels (or 3500 lb-ft per axle shaft)... at about 50 rpm. That's probably fine for a Tesla motor; overall gearing of the Tesla and the conventional car in first gear are similar, and Tesla motor output torque (especially for the small motor) is less than 700 lb-ft.


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## Bird of Prey (Aug 24, 2016)

I have gone thru your thread ...... WOW !!!!!!!


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

DrJeff said:


> Figuring out the Tesla AC Compressor - Physical Wiring
> 
> The unit has six wires, two are high voltage power (encased in orange). There are four additional wires that run directly to the AC motor control.
> 
> ...


What are the numbers on your Tesla AC compressors? In another topic I've read that you own two different ones.

As far as I understand there are three different types.
Tesla 6007380-**-* is a Denso ES34C and I'm expecting this is the one that is PWM controlled. Used in 2013 and 2014

Later types are the HVCC ESC33N (Tesla part 1028398-**-*) and the Hanon HES33 (Tesla part 1063369-**-*) and I expect these are CAN controlled.

However looking at your third photo in post #15 I'd say it's a HVCC ESC33N which you indicated as non-CAN controlled.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

oudevolvo said:


> What are the numbers on your Tesla AC compressors? In another topic I've read that you own two different ones.
> 
> As far as I understand there are three different types.
> Tesla 6007380-**-* is a Denso ES34C and I'm expecting this is the one that is PWM controlled. Used in 2013 and 2014
> ...


ES34C Japan
6007380-00-C
PWM Controlled
from 2014 Model S

ESC33N Korea
CAN controlled
1028398-00-E
from 2015 70D

Any idea what the PWM specs of the ES34C look like? I can't find much of anything on the interwebs about it.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

DrJeff said:


> Any idea what the PWM specs of the ES34C look like? I can't find much of anything on the interwebs about it.


Thanks! Yes, that does confirm my expectations.
Have been searching extensively. But even while knowing that the PWM controlled pump is actually a Denso part was not of much use. Did not find any specs unfortunatelty.

Therefore I am now leaning towards using a AC compressor with a known control scheme, the Benling DM27A1 as also sold by EVTV.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Once more your topic is very valuable for me, thanks for sharing all this info.
I do have a question on the coolant diverter valves.
I intend to use two of them in my project.
The 4-port to be able to join or separate the controller+DC/DC and battery loops to be able to heat the batteries while driving using waste heat from the controller.
The 3-port I want to use to bypass the battery loop radiator and in that bypass add the battery heater.
Now my question is about the following:


DrJeff said:


> The valves are listed as PWM controlled, but this is not correct. There are four wires, +12v and Gnd, Signal and Control. Rather than being PWM, Control should switch between Ground and +12v to switch flow from one outlet to the other (for both the 3 and 4 port valves). Signal indicates value position - but need not be connected for valve control purposes.


Which wire is which pin?
My 4-port valve has four pins labeled C A / D F








My 3-port does not have these letters, but the print looks the same.
Hope you can help me out. I don’t want to put 12V on the wrong pin and fry it.

And do you already have a plan for the connector? It’s missing and I cannot find any info on the web.
I was thinking about having something 3D printed.

Thanks in advance!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

oudevolvo said:


> Once more your topic is very valuable for me, thanks for sharing all this info.
> I do have a question on the coolant diverter valves.
> I intend to use two of them in my project.
> The 4-port to be able to join or separate the controller+DC/DC and battery loops to be able to heat the batteries while driving using waste heat from the controller.
> ...


My 4-port doesn't have letters, but the wire colors associated with each pin are...

Part Number 6007370-00-B
C = Black
D = White Green
A = Red Gold (or Brown)
F = White Blue
Invensys 15B16 Motor Actuator (12v) 127-00033-001(90) Made in Korea

My 3-port also doesn't have letters, but following the same pattern as in your picture...

Part Number 6007384-00-B
C = Black
D = Brown Green
A = Red Gold
F = White Violet (or Purple)
TMN G9361-0R010

Jeff


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

DrJeff said:


> My 4-port doesn't have letters, but the wire colors associated with each pin are...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks!
Is my following assumption/conclusion then correct?
C = ground
A = 12V +

Thanks for including a photo of the connectors now I know what I’m after. Hope that I can find them in the end.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

oudevolvo said:


> Thanks!
> Is my following assumption/conclusion then correct?
> C = ground
> A = 12V +
> ...


In all cases of valves C is ground and A is Pwr (valves say 12v) on the side.

I think the valve electrical connector is a Delphi 12052848.

Radiator Bypass Valve
3 Way Valve
A = RD-WH ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = TN-BK ; PosIn ; PWM
F = TN-DB ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Chiller Bypass Valve
3 Way Valve
A = RD-YE ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = TN-DG ; PosIn ; PWM
F = WH-BN ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Four Way Valve
A = RD-GY ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = WH-DG ; PosIn ; PWM
F = WH-DB ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 2
1 = OG-YE ; Batt ; 15A
3 = GY-BN ; PWM
4 = GY-RD ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 1
1 = OG-BN ; Batt
3 = GY-WH ; PWM
4 = GY-PK ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 3
1 = OG-RD ; Batt
3 = GY-DG ; PWM
4 = GY-DB ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

DrJeff said:


> I think the valve electrical connector is a Delphi 12052848.


Brilliant, thanks! I've ordered some and will let report back if they indeed fit. Looks like the correct ones indeed.



DrJeff said:


> Radiator Bypass Valve
> 
> 3 Way Valve
> 
> ...


I assume the 3-way valves are identical in terms of hardware, but I'll check.

Thanks for that information. I played around with them and found out the following.








Update: after looking at the results of the 3-port I realised there was an error in the 4-port mapping. Updated the text below.









So in words:

Nb. outlets numbered clockwise starting with 1 at 12 o'clock.

For the 4 way valve:

A = 12V+ and C = ground => mixing so connects 1+2+3+4

A = 12V and C + D = ground => turns clockwise to connect 1+3 and 2+4

A + D = 12V and C = ground => turns counter clockwise to connect 1+2 and 3+4



For the 3 way valve:

A = 12V+ and C = ground => mixing so connects 1+2+3

A = 12V and C + D = ground => connects 1+3

A + D = 12V and C = ground => connects 2+3



I have not yet looked into what happens to pin F, but it would be nice if it can confirm whether a certain and desired end position has been reached.

Will look into that.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

oudevolvo said:


> Brilliant, thanks! I've ordered some and will let report back if they indeed fit. Looks like the correct ones indeed.


Thanks! Yes, the Delphi 12052848 fits.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

DrJeff said:


> Figuring out the iBooster brake system


Once more I am triggered to also start using the iBooster. Still do want to get rid of the vacuum pump and in particular the noise.
Sorry to ask again, but can you please take the measurements from the iBooster for me? I know you did before but the answer is in the "blackout" period of the forum. Plus I need it a little more exact. Hope you can help me out.

It is going to be quite tight whether it will fit next to my battery box.
I've already seen that you can also use it upside down so with the ECU facing to the outside (left for RHD cars).
Can you please take measurements A,B,C,D in the below sketch for me?







(Drawing is as seen from the inside of the car so from push-rod end).
Thanks in advance!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

oudevolvo said:


> Once more I am triggered to also start using the iBooster. Still do want to get rid of the vacuum pump and in particular the noise.
> Sorry to ask again, but can you please take the measurements from the iBooster for me?...


Hiya,

I think I've got what you need. Unfortunately I'm jetting off to Australia today so I'll just attach what I've got (a bunch of photos and a png)...

Jeff


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

DrJeff said:


> I think I've got what you need.


Yes! Thanks you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for (and even more!).
Distance from center to non ECU side is 2 1/4 inch which is 5,7 cm and I have 6,5 to 7 cm available. Should work out!
I'll check the other measurements and fitment and then will go searching to but one.
FYI (don't know whether it's relevant for you), but o.a. Honda also uses it and they have a remote reservoir fitted. (
example on eBay)
and you can even buy new ones, both the iBooster and the master cylinder + reservoirs (don't know anything about the shop though), but quite some money.
And you probably already know this but a fellow Delorean driver already installed one in his car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQCT059Rckk
Thanks for taking the time to reply and safe travels to Australia, have fun!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

oudevolvo said:


> Yes! Thanks you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for (and even more!).
> Distance from center to non ECU side is 2 1/4 inch which is 5,7 cm and I have 6,5 to 7 cm available. Should work out!
> I'll check the other measurements and fitment and then will go searching to but one.
> FYI (don't know whether it's relevant for you), but o.a. Honda also uses it and they have a remote reservoir fitted.
> ...


Thanks for the Honda details. A remote reservoir would be great for me. The reservoir in my case sticks up into the floor of the DeLorean's frunk. Since that's where I've got the charger, HVJB, etc. I was thinking of remaking the bracket that holds the iBooster in place. It was sized to hold the stock brake booster, which needed to get out of the way of the hydraulic clutch master.

Jeff


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## nesc76 (Jul 22, 2016)

DrJeff said:


> ES34C Japan
> 6007380-00-C
> PWM Controlled
> from 2014 Model S
> ...


Hi Dr. Jeff, 

Great to see the Teslorean project. Looks really nice. 

I'am thinking about using the tesla AC compressor as well, looking for the PWM version. Problem is my voltage is 111V, so I would need to rewind and change the motor a bit. 

Do you have the specs for the compressor (psi, power and etc)? Have you managed to test the PWM function to check if it works? 

Thanks!!!


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

nesc76 said:


> Do you have the specs for the compressor (psi, power and etc)? Have you managed to test the PWM function to check if it works?


I haven't messed with the AC system yet. I got a 2014 compressor which is controlled via PWM. No specs or hacking data as yet.

Jeff


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## deaglan7 (Sep 30, 2018)

Hi Jeff,

Cool looking project, and very impressive progress.

I spent the last number of years working with iBoosters for some european OEMs - I can probably offer you some insights. PM me, and we can discuss.

Good luck with rest of the build.

Deaglan.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

I got the PowerKey 2300 SI running. Just a little hiccup with the default CAN baud rate (mine was 250KBPS, not 125KPBS as in the documentation). The panel will sit slightly forward of where the gearshift was. I'm still debating whether I should put a cup holder where the gear shift has been removed. A DeLorean with a sensible cup holder location may just be a step too far for the purists 

I bought mine directly from Blink Marine.

Unit is very solid and has great key action. You can select the key symbol inserts from 200+ available (very easy to change). The pic shows some of the button light colors possible, essentially combinations of RGB, shown here at 100% brightness.

My car will have D-drive, R-reverse, (P) - park, Charge, Up, and Down. I haven't landed exactly on the purpose of Up/Down yet but it could be a regen level adjuster OR air suspension... TBD 

I landed on using a button panel like this after using a similar arrangement in the FIAT 500e. In the TesLorean, the button will only indicate selected once the trip computer has confirmation back from the HSR motor control module that the motor is in the selected mode.

There is backlighting and the button LEDs can be made to blink.

I'll need to work on the color scheme and what information I need the buttons to convey as the car is being operated/charged. It will be something more subtle that the Christmas tree shown in the photo.

No N neutral required - (P) is sufficient. The TesLorean will rely on the manual hand brake to stop the car rolling. The trip computer will monitor the manual handbrake and flash warning lights until it is engaged.


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## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

I really wanted to use the push button setup you have. So modern and techy. I couldnt go passed the original gear selector though. Keep the updates. 

Tell us about that magic circuit board in that pic, what is it, a HSR thing?


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

itchyback said:


> I really wanted to use the push button setup you have. So modern and techy. I couldnt go passed the original gear selector though. Keep the updates.
> 
> Tell us about that magic circuit board in that pic, what is it, a HSR thing?


The circuits are a Ruggiduino Mega mounted to a CZH-Labs D-1000 (just makes all the pins into screw terminals), and a MCP2515_CAN breakout board. The TesLorean will have multiple CAN networks - mostly to separate data traffic and segregate critical drive / battery data from less critical data like AC/instrument cluster, etc.

The HSR controller is made by HSR Motors (hsrmotors.com). They create modules that instruct the paired Tesla small and large drive units to function. The HSR module requires gear selection information (which it can get via CAN or a dedicated switch panel). I played with using a stock gear selector for ages, but feedback and overriding control were issues. For example you could put the automatic stick in D, but that doesn't mean that the controllers have confirmed that your in Drive. The button panel and lights allow for button press detection, the controllers to handshake, and the LED lights to be set to indicate compliance. Modern gear selectors (even the dial type) have a set of motors and solenoids to prevent inappropriate gear selection.

Jeff


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## EVSpitfire (Feb 28, 2014)

Dr Jeff
Firstly lovely build.
I've been keen to use the Chrysler 200 rotary gear selector for my direct drive build using a UQM motor. have you looked/consider at this as an option? any thoughts / comments ?
steve


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## Jimbo69ny (Feb 13, 2018)

DrJeff said:


> The Tesla has a number of coolant diverter valves, one of which is 4 way : TMN 6007370-00-B (two ins, switched between two outs), and others are 3 way : TMN 6007384-00-B (one in, switching between two outs).
> 
> The 4-port valve is used to connect the coolant flow into 1 continuous large loop or separate it into 2 smaller loops. Useful for heating/cooling just the battery unit - distinct from whatever the temp of the driveunit. The 3-oprt is used to bypass the radiator and another to bypass the coolant chiller.
> 
> ...





Hello DrJeff,


I see in your posts that you are experienced with the Tesla valves. I just picked up a 3 way valve and I am hoping you can tell me which wires are positive and negative. 



Thanks!


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Jimbo69ny said:


> I just picked up a 3 way valve and I am hoping you can tell me which wires are positive and negative.


See Post #92 in this topic.
(I asked the same question, he gave a great answer and I managed to figure it out).


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

EVSpitfire said:


> Dr Jeff
> Firstly lovely build.
> I've been keen to use the Chrysler 200 rotary gear selector for my direct drive build using a UQM motor. have you looked/consider at this as an option? any thoughts / comments ?
> steve


Hi Steve,

I did actually try to get some control out of a rotary gear selector from a Chrysler, I wasn't successful, but I think the unit was also damaged.

Jeff


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## Jimbo69ny (Feb 13, 2018)

oudevolvo said:


> See Post #92 in this topic.
> (I asked the same question, he gave a great answer and I managed to figure it out).



Thank you so much!


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## jon volk (Aug 13, 2018)

Is this the same operation as the Tesla 4 way valve? Im just trying to visualize the flow on that one.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Hi John,

The 4-way Tesla valve is essentially the same. Let me try in text to outline how the 4 way works...

Inputs are A and B
Outputs are C and D

Mode 1 = A->C & B->D (then C->A and D->B)
Mode 2 = A->D & B->C (then C->A and D->B)

So in mode 1, there are two separate loops of coolant - what I call in my design the inner and outer loops. The Drive Unit is on one loop and the Battery is on another. I suspect this design is because there are occasions when the thermal needs of the drive unit and battery differ.

In mode 2, the two loops become 1, so all the coolant has access to the radiator, the chiller, the heater, etc.

Jeff


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

One addition, there is a third mode where 1+2+3+4 are connected. Don’t know why you would want that but it is possible.
Then you need to put 12V on pin A and ground pin C.


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## DrJeff (Apr 24, 2015)

Trip Computer design is finished and ready to go in the car. The Trip Computer is the master controller in the TesLorean as it controls the primary source of input from the driver (apart from the steering and accelerator) and issues commands to the thermal controller, charger, battery control, instrument cluster, drive unit...

YouTube Trip Computer

Recent work on the TesLorean has all been on controller programming (too darn hot to be in the garage).

Jeff


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## BlueHorizon (Nov 27, 2018)

That display is quite epic - very nicely done!! 

Be great on the media option to have Bluetooth streaming audio from your phone.


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## socketwrench54 (Oct 4, 2019)

oudevolvo said:


> One addition, there is a third mode where 1+2+3+4 are connected. Don’t know why you would want that but it is possible.
> Then you need to put 12V on pin A and ground pin C.


I'm interested in using this 4-way valve for one of my projects. As far as I know there are two confirmed modes:

A = +12 V, C = GND, D = GND/0 V
A = +12 V, C = GND, D = +12 V

The third mode, A = 12 V, C = GND, D = ?

To me, it seems dangerous to leave a signal pin floating, and this could be an undefined state that is vulnerable to a spurious signal. Can anyone confirm this third mode of operation?

F appears to be disconnected. Another user suggested a possible valve reporting state. Does anyone have experience with this?

Final question: does pin D have to be +12 V, or can it be lower, such as + 5V, and is this a continuous DC signal or a PWM?

Cheers,

SW


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## Echevy (Sep 26, 2010)

Just in case someone is looking for a way to control one of the earlier electric battery heaters, the Phillips Temro type, I'm looking at the Crydom DC power relay DC400D20. 400vdc maximum 20amp DC maximum, PWM to 700hz and fully isolated. Best price I've seen is about $75.


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## Jimbo69ny (Feb 13, 2018)

Echevy said:


> Just in case someone is looking for a way to control one of the earlier electric battery heaters, the Phillips Temro type, I'm looking at the Crydom DC power relay DC400D20. 400vdc maximum 20amp DC maximum, PWM to 700hz and fully isolated. Best price I've seen is about $75.


Do you have a link? Where did you buy it?


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

Not the same, but, these are like, $10-20 on AliX.

I'm too lazy to try to search for exactly the right thing, but, 400vdc and 20A (8000w, more than you'd need for heater...): $10.60. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ -- 

25A 400vdc, $16: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_


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## cgalpin (Dec 5, 2012)

Hi Lars

Did you ever document the A,B,C,D measurements for this? I have some tight space requirements and need to know these to tell if it will work for me - hard to tell from the pictures. Also, if you have any measurements that can help me tell the reservoir position relative to the center line since I am tight on space there too. 

tia,
charles
p.s. great builds both yours and Jeff's!



oudevolvo said:


> Once more I am triggered to also start using the iBooster. Still do want to get rid of the vacuum pump and in particular the noise.
> Sorry to ask again, but can you please take the measurements from the iBooster for me? I know you did before but the answer is in the "blackout" period of the forum. Plus I need it a little more exact. Hope you can help me out.
> 
> It is going to be quite tight whether it will fit next to my battery box.
> ...


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

cgalpin said:


> Hi Lars
> 
> Did you ever document the A,B,C,D measurements for this? I have some tight space requirements and need to know these to tell if it will work for me - hard to tell from the pictures. Also, if you have any measurements that can help me tell the reservoir position relative to the center line since I am tight on space there too.
> 
> ...


Thanks, yes Jeff took them for me.
See post #95 in this thread
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1016479&postcount=95
And #96 regarding the remote reservoir might be relevant for you too.


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## cgalpin (Dec 5, 2012)

Sorry, I should have said that I saw Jeff’s dimensions. Based on your previous post it looks like

A=3.75”
B=2.25”

But it looks like the height measurements are also not symmetric either, but I can’t tell. These are pricey enough that I don’t want to just buy one without having a fighting chance of making it fit 🙂

Are reservoir connections universal? If so, then i agree the Honda remote reservoir would be perfect. 

The AliExpress connector doesn’t appear to have the locking mechanism like the oem one - any issues?

And one last question. Just to clarify, you are using this with just 12v power and ignition, no external sensors for the pedal travel (maybe just a switch)? 

Thanks,
Charles


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## cgalpin (Dec 5, 2012)

Well, I ended up buying both a Tesla gen 1 iBooster and Honda gen 2 iBooster. If anyone needs any measurements let me know. 

The Honda unit came with the same large connector 192840576, but a different connector on the pedal travel sensor. Also the Honda does not have a wire on pin 17 (12v).

The reservoir fittings are compatible, with slightly different retaining styles, but can be swapped.

The master cylinders have different mounts, and the pushrod ends have different mounting pattern and pushrod lengths.

I was able to wire up the Honda gen 2 unit and get assist. I have the pedal travel sensor connector for that and the wire colors matched with the large connector too which was nice.

However I cannot get assist with the Tesla gen 1 unit (which is the one I want to use). When I apply 12v to pin 20 on the large connector I hear the unit activate and slightly push on the master side (you can both hear and feel it), but there is no assist when pushing on the pushrod. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?

I have wired it like this (LC=Large Connector)

LC1 --- 12v
LC2 --- pedal travel sensor pin 1
LC8 --- pedal travel sensor pin 3
LC9 --- ground
LC17 --- 12v
LC20 --- 12v/IGN
LC22 --- pedal travel sensor pin 2
LC23 --- pedal travel sensor pin 4

tia,
charles
p.s. if anyone bought any bulk terminals and has some to spare i'm interested in buying some.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Sorry, I missed your additional question on dimensions. Thanks for sharing the insights on the Honda vs Tesla differences.
I have a 1037123-00-B (so Gen2) wired in exact the same way and it works. Gen1 should be identical.
However, at first it did not work either and I found out the wiring loom that came with the iBooster had a connection issue between the travel sensor and the ECU. After replacing that faulty wire it worked. So perhaps do a continuity test.

I have sourced all parts needed to integrate the iBooster in a loom and will be selling connector kits with crimp pins, connectors, seals and blind plugs soon.
Did not buy the terminals in bulk though (then you need to purchase 1600 pcs) so do not have any spare/loose terminals I can sell.


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## cgalpin (Dec 5, 2012)

I think it must be related to the pedal travel sensor too, since it powers up ok, so will do a continuity test - great idea, thanks. 

I might be using the wrong terminology for the gen1/gen2 - sorry. I have two styles

1. Square aluminum body from a 2015 Tesla Model S 70D #1037123-00-A
2. The lighter stamped metal one looking more like a traditional booster from a 2018 Honda Accord #46000-TVA-A060-M1 (looks the same on a Tesla Model 3)

I'm interested in a kit, but I think you'll find most people will want duplicate/triplicate counts on the terminals - both as insurance against bad crimps, but also to make a test harness and a final one for the car.

I apologize in advance if we are hijacking your thread DrJeff.


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## cgalpin (Dec 5, 2012)

Boy I feel dumb - i was looking at the small connector upside down so I had the pins reversed. Works great.

Thanks for heading me in the right direction Lars.


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## 266917 (May 4, 2020)

I checked all the pages, and I didn't see it, so at this point, it's much overdue, but needs to be said. "When it gets to 88mph, you're going to see some serious @%!$" 

Awesome project!


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