# Did I damage my controller ?



## Hugues (Jul 13, 2014)

Anybody knows how to open a Curtis 1238 controller ? Mine is out of warranty anyway. So it thought i might as well look inside. If i'm lucky it's just a couple of caps blown off. Or the pre-charge resistor failed.

The only 2 error messages left i have are:
- Precharge failed
- Motor temp hot cutback

For the first code, Curtis manual mentions :
1) External load on capacitor bank (B+ connection terminal) that prevents the capacitor bank from charging
2) See Monitor menu >> Battery: Capacitor Voltage Set: Precharge failed to charge the capacitor bank to KSI voltage

I've searched on Google how to open the controller, not very clear, some people have done it, seems i have to remove the 5 brass lugs on the cover, but it's not clear how to remove them. AFAIK, there are no screws to be removed on the controller.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Find a tight fitting snap ring to fit in the groove on the outside of the terminals (if it has the grooves). Use a 3 jaw puller that hooks on the snap ring to pull the outer part of the terminal from the threaded inner part. They're pressed on pretty tight. I think I've seen some without the grooves. I don't know how those are removed.

Also, check out this thread : http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136282&highlight=1238+terminals


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## Hugues (Jul 13, 2014)

electro wrks said:


> Find a tight fitting snap ring to fit in the groove on the outside of the terminals (if it has the grooves). Use a 3 jaw puller that hooks on the snap ring to pull the outer part of the terminal from the threaded inner part. They're pressed on pretty tight. I think I've seen some without the grooves. I don't know how those are removed.
> 
> Also, check out this thread : http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136282&highlight=1238+terminals


Good, mine have the grooves. I will try. Expect to see some controller porn if i managed to open it up 
Thanks


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## Hugues (Jul 13, 2014)

To answer my first question: my controller is definitely damaged, the power board is fried.

You can see it in the attached video. It shows also how to open the controller, it's rather easy. Of course you have to be very careful, the caps inside could still be charged and kill you. If you don't know why/how, then don't open it.

Lessons learned: 
- don't let the phases of your motor touch together
- don't install your main fuse if your contactor is closed, this will create a rush of current inside the controller caps and huge spark.

Now i need to buy a new 1238R-7601 controller. 

Video here:
https://youtu.be/uRKoFouPY20


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## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

Oh boy that one is fried for sure 

Why were your motor leads loose with the controller powere on?


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Like I wrote on elmoto: Bummer about the controller. The magic smoke is so difficult to put in and so easy to let out! Your terminal removal technique puts a lot of stress on the circuit boards the terms. are attached to. Better to use a puller that pulls on the outside and pushes on the threaded, inside of the terminals. These guys could fix it: http://www.fsip.biz/index.html , but usually it's very expensive.


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## DMPstar (Mar 2, 2016)

Nice work on getting the Curtis diagnosed, at least the damage was obvious and didn't take too much time! / 
Those lugs had me stumped for quite some time when trying to open one the first time; I had a slide hammer attached to an M8 bolt threaded in to the post thinking it came out like that. Standing on Curtis is a nice touch too, very much my style.

I have encountered a few situations where the Curtis motor phases had shorted (heck I shorted my phases on my first drive!). It seemed like chances were almost 50/50 whether or not the controller was fried by it though. In the exact moment after the phases short out, the controller obviously tries to open the main contactor. If the contactor welds before the main fuse blows, you may end up with what you have there. Also having the motor turning at the moment they short may make controller damage more likely.
I see smoke blast on the logic board, but since it powered up and gave you fault readings, I would think it is still good. Maybe put it back together and check if your 12V and 5V supplies still work and that the controller recognizes the inputs (if you have means to view that). If you aren't finding any affordable repair options, I could part with a working 1238 power board. PM if interested, from Canada.


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