# wiring guru needed: wiring/contactor question



## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Don't you need 72v+ battery positive wire someplace?


----------



## novaal (Oct 1, 2015)

The diagram was a separate part on the schematic, the 72v+ cable runs from the battery to main cutoff switch to the controller, outside this part of the diagram. the main contactor controls just the negative cable. Here's the entire one (PDF file):
View attachment XL-Wiring-Diagram.pdf


----------



## Gadget8 (Oct 3, 2017)

4 years later, wondering if you are still working on this or have made any progress? I have the same truck with the same problem but before I go too far into it want to see if this thread is still relevant.


----------



## novaal (Oct 1, 2015)

I did get it going. 


It had only 235 miles when it quit running. Before I bought it someone tried to fix it, I finally figured out they replaced the original 72v controller with the 96v version. I think they didn't know it was 96v (with no speed limit) because they kept the 72v batteries, not enough voltage to get it to work. 


The EO6 low voltage code occurs at about 82v for the 96v controller, once I got the wiring back to what the diagrams showed & added another battery (84v) it started working. I started using a section of a Chevy Volt battery pack to power it & ran it up to 118v before getting an over-voltage code.


I drove it for a while at 118v but the stock motor & controller are not powerfull enough to maintain 40mph even on small hills in my area.


Planning on replacing the motor & controller, I have a 10" kit but it's on hold for a while. I bought a new house a little over a year ago, turning the basement into a garage/work area for my cars.


----------



## Gadget8 (Oct 3, 2017)

Great, glad you got it going. I'm having the same thoughts about upping the voltage of mine once I get it running. It originally came from a factory where it only needed to drive around on flat ground under 20mph, not going to cut it for a little commuter vehicle. 



It sounds like you've selected a motor and controller, what did you decide to go with?


I think I am getting close to having a running truck. There has been a whole nest of problems to untangle but I have got it to the point where the dash gauges seem to read correctly, the contactor closes and when I move the throttle the motor starts buzzing but not turning. As soon as I hit the throttle, the E-06 code also flashes, however I measured the pack voltage while the throttle was on and it didn't drop below 80V (and it does have the original 72V controller). Motor winding resistance check out, code still flashes even with the motor disconnected... so I am starting to suspect the controller. Any ideas you have would be appreciated. Temporarily stumped.


----------



## novaal (Oct 1, 2015)

Sounds like you're at the same point now that I ended up at, I still think your pack voltage is low - the only reason to get an EO6 code. Try to get the voltage above 84v, I added one more 12v battery with jumper cables. no more EO6 & it started to move. 


Someone in the past may have updated your controller, they're the same for 72-96v.


I lucked out & won a new 10 inch motor kit with a Curtis controller on Ebay for $1555 a couple years ago (they didn't set a reserve - still selling the kit for $5,500)


----------

