# Sticky  Transmission/motor mount thread.



## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

This thread is for posting known and proven technical dimensions and locations for transmission bell housing and motor faceplate mounting holes.

Drawings in any format will be fine as files but maybe screan shots or PDFs would be good so that all members can see the drawing without specialist software.

Please keep discussion to your own build threads but do link your technical post to your build thread, and vice versa, so other members can see the conversion and how it has worked out in practice.

Thank you.

Edit to add:
It may also be useful to link to a, or post a concise, log of how you made your adaptor plate so that others can see the process involved at a DIY or engineering shop level.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

OK, I will kick this off.

AC50. Mostly all dimensions are recorded in the HPEV data sheets and off of the internet. 

But the motor body O.D. is 8" and the motor leads can be changed from the plate on the body and moved if they interfere with anyones motor mounting plan. 









The air flow is axially inwards at the encoder end through the center and radially outwards at the drive end through 4 slots near the outside edge.

A flat adapter plate will not cover the air flow and works fine, but any flat, front mount using the encoder end plate will cover the intake slots unless there is a 6" hole provided as well as egress clearance for the encoder wiring.









It always puzzled me. On the AC50, the small 3/8" bolts were on the adapter end and the large 1/2" bolts were on the encoder end. Why didnt they put the 1/2" bolts on the adapter plate end?









Miz


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## fb_bf (Jul 6, 2011)

I'll add this information about my MG midget. I received this car with the motor already mounted, so I can't take credit for it. Unfortunately, I don't have drawings for the adapter plate, or the front mount. I can pass on the fact that the Warp 9 Impulse motor fits very well in the midget. Its length allows for a simple front mount that utilizes the original motor mounts. This simplifies things considerably. Since the this particular motor has almost the same torque as the ICE, it means I won't be over stressing the original motor mounts, to the entire drive train. Here are some pictures of the motor mounted in the car. For more information you can visit my on going site about the car build.


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## peggus (Feb 18, 2008)

Fiat 124 Spider

Adapter plate
http://www.electric-lemon.com/?q=node/203


shaft coupler
http://www.electric-lemon.com/?q=node/213
http://www.electric-lemon.com/?q=node/218


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

I have a Warp9 going onto a clutchless VW transaxle. My adapter plate is very deep (3-1/2 to 4") and the coupler is only 4-1/8". The transaxle shaft splines do not protrude much. See pics. Is my adapter too deep or my coupler to short? Doesn't look like there will be a solid fit. The photo on the left shows the coupler on the drive end of the motor with the adapter plate mounted on. There is a lot of space between the coupler and motor face. The photo on the right is the end of the transaxle shaft, no splines visible.


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

Peggus Nice clean job.You probably have everything together by now but I would suggest a sleeve to go around the coupler to help keep everything in line. Your coupler looks a lot like my second coupler. It lasted longer than the love joy setup I first tried by about a year. I am guessing those are quarter inch bolts with 7/16 heads? Basing the scale on that the springs look to be about the same size as those in the X19. I am using the FB4001 motor to an 84 x19 five speed. If you are a lot more conservative on accelerations than I am it may last as while. In my first design like yours those springs all but disintegrated and plate cracked on the corners of the spring slots. Not to mention the hammering of those fine splines. In the coupler I made based on the Fiat design I used Kawasaki valve springs and incased it in an aluminum hosing that I welded closed. It is a little larger diameter but seems to be holding up. I am not much on photos so I am going to try to post a drawing.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

This is for a friend who is computer illiterate:










1995 S10/Sonoma truck-4L60 4speed automatic, nice simple clean design. Plasma cut, allows use of standard shifter, driveshaft, trans mount, wiring. BTW: it is going to be direct coupled to the motor. This set-up eliminates the factory computer (ECU) and uses an Optishift transmission controller. It includes a ton of interface options too as well as being able to adjust your shift points to your spec=EV friendly.

Miz


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## green caveman (Oct 2, 2009)

Here're the Solidworks files for a 1994 Suzuki Sidekick 4WD. I think this pattern is good for any of the 1.6L engines. 

The original CMM file is also included in case you don't have Solidworks. Only four of these holes are actually used to attach the transmission. Two on the top and two on the sides that have captive bolts on the transmission itself.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

This thread is always worth a look for the method of making an adaptor plate.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38895&highlight=adaptor+plate


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

A good one:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...g-adapter-measurement-blueprinti-55509p2.html


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

in the process of building my adapter already have my 5/8 inch aluminium plate but im wondering about the motor coupler ... wouldn't it be very easy to just take the crankshaft off the engine cut the part of the flywheel adapter off and just weld a appropriate shaft sized coupler onto the already existent flywheel adapter base ? 

im thinking of going this root if im sure I can do it right .... has it been done before 

1997 318i bmw with manual transmsission if it changes anything  ....


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

That sounds like a pretty co8l idea. You will need to do something to make it straight besides closing one eye though. Post your results, and good luck!


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## crackerjackz (Jun 26, 2009)

ok so im guessing it hasn't been done or the ones who have stayed silent ?? .... I have access to a milling machine and a turntable but none of them are automated meaning very long and time consuming ..... which Is why im trying to find an easy fix lol ...


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

When I was attempting to electrify an MR2 I cut the end of the crankshaft off, to make a usable stump, just as you are suggesting.

First problem I found was that it was very, very hard. I cut it off with a 9" friction disc cutter but that was still hard going. Trying to machine the rough end to something clean and usable was well beyond my tooling, and that at the college where I was working.

The next consideration that I never even got to attempt was making sure the stump was physically mated true to a taperlock fitting for the motor shaft.

Asking advice from some engineering companies I was told that even if I managed to machine both parts true to locate them together there would be a high risk of movement due to the heating effect of welding. There would be no scope for retruing either the stump or the taper lock after welding as both parts are already machined to within limits.

Then there was the issue of welding dissimilar steels so that they wouldn't fail at the weld.

You could try bolting both parts together but then you have to drill the very hard stump!



It would be easier to machine one lump of metal, to match the requirements at both ends of the coupler, from scratch.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Has anyone used the Can EV motor adapter for a Chevy S-10 before?










Will it line up with this type of transmission?

I still have the heavy flywheel and clutch kit, and have read a few posts on switching to a lighter weight aluminum flywheel. I also don't know what the difference in clutch kits are (stage 1-5) and if the existing one will continue to work.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

It looks like the transmission adapter plate will work out pretty good. I just cut out a thin but stiff piece of aluminum to cover up the space at the bottom that will work fine.


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

I just bought a Canadian EV adapter to connect a new Kostov K11 to a 700R4 automatic. Though a bit pricey, it seems to be a good adapter as it' bolted up well to the transmission. 

For the S10 there are two choices depending on whether it had a 4 cyl or the small 2.8 V6 or the larger 4.3 V6. The latter is quite a bit larger and is also used for a V8 conversion.


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## RandyFl (Jun 24, 2014)

Hello All,
I am interested in converting a 2002 Toyota corolla 1.8 L automatic transmission to EV.
Its the perfect donor car as I have kept up with repairs and such...
My concern is the AT. I haven't seen very many pictures or EV supply companies with adapters or mounts for AT s. I learned how to drive a car with a stick shift but since I already have the AT why not convert it.
I'm not as in tune with the Toyota automatic transmission as I am with the VVTi engine but I could be if its not too complicated to convert a AT...
Any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanx
RandyFL


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## sirwattsalot (Aug 27, 2012)

AC50 mounted in an 1994 Saturn SC2. Original engine mounts are used and support for the right hand side half shaft is bolted between the motor and the shaft bearing. A vacuum pump is mounted over the drive motor. The pot box is mounted over the vacuum pump.


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## sirwattsalot (Aug 27, 2012)

If you can get the end of the crankshaft welded up to a bushing so that it is perfectly centered and balanced then OK. The dimensions between the input shaft and the motor shaft must be considered. I used a QD bushing for 1 1/8" shaft and drilled it for an 8 bolt pattern for the flywheel. This is a difficult part to obtain and to get done correctly.


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## Roderick (Dec 8, 2013)

I am totally new at transmission swap kind of wizardry but I have a question. 

I am planning to do Auto to manual trans swap. The question is...do i need to modify my adapter plate or not?

At the moment, Motor is linked to adapter plate and adapter plate to bell housing... I believe the pattern on the bell housing will change when I install new MT. Is there way around it? (like swapping bell housing)

AT i used is ZF5HP24
MT i want to use is 56T (not definite yet)

I am willing to learn!


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## micahbayless (Sep 10, 2015)

Hi Everyone,

I'm using The Electromotive type 4 flywheel adapter to 1-1/8" shaft with taper-lock. I'm having the adapter and flywheel ground down to 65mm for a ball bearing that arrived today. The Type 4 case will carry a foot long 1-1/8" shaft on bearings - I've also picked some taper-lock pulleys for belts to head out the cylinder holes to small motors. 

I've called Kennedy and asked for a strong clutch for the type 4 flywheel.

I'll take some pictures and post when the belts are hanging out the cylinder holes.


Micah


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hi. I'm wondering about the center piece (likely a short length of pipe) between the two plates. On the flywheel side, it can just be tapped out and bolted onto the flywheel adaptor plate. But on the motor side, how to attach to that plate? Weld? Use a thick enough plate to countersink holes for the bolt heads into the back of it? Weld a flange onto the pipe?

I'm fighting a cold at the moment, so I hope the above is clear. Machinist coming over tomorrow....

Jim


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hi - me again. Please forgive if I am duplicating a discussion had elsewhere, but I have looked..... Often threads are so old (I assume) the pictures no longer load, so I am finally just going to post my question.

I am working on the coupling and adaptor between my AC50 and an M40 Volvo transmission. It looks like the coupler is built and fits.

Now, for the adaptor, I will have two plates, joined by a short piece of 6" or so pipe. From what I have seen, it seems common to have no clearance behind either the flywheel cover or the motor plate, so peeps who use aluminum are counter-sinking holes for the bolt heads which attach the two end plates to the center piece (pipe). Or, there is no pipe needed, and it is just bolting the two plates together. So:

1) It seems I need a space between the two plates because of the length of the motor shaft - this is normal, right? I just want to make sure. I mean, I could cut the shaft....

2) I would rather use steel than aluminum, but the thicknesses required to run a bolt through the piece of pipe and counter-sink holes for the bolt head are going to make everything more expensive and much heavier. SO (this is my main question), have people had lasting success with welding the pipe onto the adaptor plates instead, or does that introduce too much alignment error and distortion? If I could weld it, I could use 3/8ths for all. 

Thanks.

Jim


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hi. I see I posted almost the same question twice - sorry, wuz sick.

I have since had some feedback from a mechanical engineer, and he said if the centre piece is thinner than the plates, welding shouldn't introduce too much distortion. 

As far as the thickness of the plates and drilling out a recess for the bolt head on the motor side goes, he suggested a plastic spacer between the motor and the plate instead. This could be 1/2"or so. I like this idea, but don't like the idea of too much movement. 

Edit: I'm pretty-much scrapping this idea now.


Jim


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## Jbrewer106 (May 7, 2015)

Create a hardwood play wood mock-up part to verify shaft depth needed, in my case I had ordered 11'' Warp motor, using a 1'' AL plate with 1 inch square AL tubbing welded to the plate as the spacer to Warp motor and flat plate to the GM 700R4 Automatic Transmission , when I had ordered all the parts , I did not have access to the ICE motor and transmision to verify the depth of the flywheel plate the protrude 3/8 about 9.5mm. So the shaft could have been ordered 1 5/8 41.275mm shorter, and the other alternative take to a machine shop to trim shaft or would have been get a lathe bit hold it with a vise and spin the motor w a 12 volt battery and cut off the length needed, if it was an AC motor the controller , batteries and the peddle pot would be needed to spin the motor.


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hi. I think I have read this thread from start to finish when I build my first adaptor, but forgive me if I have forgotten this little detail:

I'd like to build my own adapter for a '58 Beetle, and need the "critical number". It is, I believe, the offset between the flange for mounting the flywheel on the end of the crank and the back face of the engine. I understand the flange is recessed.

Can anyone provide this number/measurement, or clarify any details I have mis-understood? One person on a local VW site said the crank has to be shimmed to fit the flywheel or otherwise it has some travel, so not having seen an engine (yet), I'm left wondering. It goes without saying, but I will say it anyway - the Bug came without said engine....

Thanks, and happy EVíng


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

On a bug, the flywheel is part of the crankshaft and as such uses spacers to set the thrust clearance on the last main bearing. Thus the spacers. Most vw shops have a complete engine somewhere, call around.


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hi - sorry not to reply earlier, but will-do. I REALLY must get a manual....

Jim


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