# [EVDL] electric air conditioning compressors



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Other than MasterFux, what are my options for electric compressors? I 
assume Leaf, Prius, and Honda hybrids have electric compressors that 
might be found in wrecking yards. Well, not yet on the Leaf. Are they 
all ~300 volts? Are they so tightly bound to the hybrid system as to 
be unusable? Any other electric options? Who is using electric 
compressors?

-- 
Willie, ONWARD! Through the fog!
http://counter.li.org Linux registered user #228836 since 1995
Debian3.1/GNU/Linux system uptime 48 days 5 hours 27 minutes

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I did something completely different. I did not want to use any main 
battery power to run any of my accessories, which includes the A/C, vacuum 
pump, electric heating, water pumps and hydraulic pumps.

I use the kinetic energy that the main motor develops during coast down. I 
install this system in 1985 and everything is still running today. Nothing 
has blown up yet.

I install a large aluminum accessory plate on the front of the motor or it 
can be install in front of the motor. These accessory plates are normally a 
aluminum plate that is use on large diesel engines and some of the cars are 
using them. I went to a GMC dealer to pick one up. It comes with all the 
adjusted brackets to mount a GMC vacuum pump, water pump, alternator, 
hydraulic power steering pump for a hydro-boost brake system and a face 
mounted A/C compressor.

The A/C compressor has a electric clutch that disengages from the the belt 
drives when the A/C relay is not on. The A/C relay comes on only if the A/C 
pressure is too low. This circuit is turn on by your on dash A/C control 
which is a 12 volt wire going to this relay.

I inserted a standard 12 volt vehicle relay in the A/C control circuit that 
goes to the A/C relay. This relay is control by the limit switch on a 
Curtis PB-6 accelerator unit. If you have only the PB-5 or some other unit, 
than you can install limit switch that is a enclose push rod type made by 
Micro Switch.

As you let up on the accelerator peddle and the accelerator arm returns to 
the stop, this engages the limit switch which turns on the A/C circuit that 
goes between the on dash control to the A/C relay.

Thus I do not use any main motor power when its on. It disconnects the belt 
drive electric clutch of the A/C compressor when the main motor is under 
power.

This works really well if you are doing a lot of stop and go driving, doing 
long coast down to a pending stop and coasting down hills.

I use a on dash selector switch, which I can choose the accelerator limit 
switch control or use the normal A/C control circuits.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Willie McKemie" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 1:11 PM
Subject: [EVDL] electric air conditioning compressors


> Other than MasterFux, what are my options for electric compressors? I
> assume Leaf, Prius, and Honda hybrids have electric compressors that
> might be found in wrecking yards. Well, not yet on the Leaf. Are they
> all ~300 volts? Are they so tightly bound to the hybrid system as to
> be unusable? Any other electric options? Who is using electric
> compressors?
>
> -- 
> Willie, ONWARD! Through the fog!
> http://counter.li.org Linux registered user #228836 since 1995
> Debian3.1/GNU/Linux system uptime 48 days 5 hours 27 minutes
>
> _______________________________________________
> | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> | Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
> |
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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> | CONFIGURE: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> 

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Roland Wiench wrote:
> > I did something completely different. I did not want to use any main
> > battery power to run any of my accessories, which includes the A/C, vacuum
> > pump, electric heating, water pumps and hydraulic pumps.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

You could copy what was done in this DIY thread, which was a copy of what
electricbluemotors has done, convert a cheap room a/c compressor to work in
a car.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46721




> Willie McKemie wrote:
> >
> > Other than MasterFux, what are my options for electric compressors? I
> > assume Leaf, Prius, and Honda hybrids have electric compressors that
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

>> An idling traction motor is really not wasting much power.



> Chris Zach wrote:
> > True, but an AC unit takes energy... I'd guess it's going to take
> > 1,500 watts to run your AC compressor. So a 120v motor is going
> > to pull an extra 12 or so amps from the pack in "idle" mode.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Chris Zach wrote:
> > On the Prizm I pretty much leave it on full power.
> 
> This is a good time to mention one of my pet peeves. it would be fuelish
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Lee Hart wrote:
> > On 8/9/2011 4:17 PM, Willie McKemie wrote:
> > > I WANT my A/C to run when the motor is not turning. I believe you have
> > > an automatic transmission? My manual clutchless is easiest to shift
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

If you preset the accelerator control circuit, you can idle the motor at a 
fix pot resistance, then all you have to do is to turn off a idle control 
switch on the dash. This disconnects the accelerator control circuit from 
the controller. This lets the motor go to 0 rpm where you then can shift 
the transmission.

Another way to do this which I do, is install another pot on the dash that 
is set for about motor 600 to run the A/C. This pot is place in series with 
the original pot that is control by the accelerator pedal which is set at 
the prefer idle rpm.

A on the dash On Off switch is use to shunt this on dash pot (place in 
parallel with this switch) to remove the resistance to 0 which returns the 
motor to 0 rpm.

If I am setting at a long traffic stop, I will turn off the idle control so 
as to save ampere hours.

What will be handy is a set of paddle switches that is use on the steering 
column that is just behind the steering wheel like is use in some sports car 
that is normally use to shift gears. These paddles switches are micro 
switches that are normally use to control electronic control transmissions, 
but can control any other circuit like the idle circuit. tci.com has these 
paddle switches kit that can be added to any vehicle.

I have there inline console shifter that have multiple micro switch levers 
that I can use to shut down two main contactors, and one to kill the 
ignition circuit.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Willie McKemie" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] electric air conditioning compressors


>


> Lee Hart wrote:
> > > On 8/9/2011 4:17 PM, Willie McKemie wrote:
> > > > I WANT my A/C to run when the motor is not turning. I believe you have
> > > > an automatic transmission? My manual clutchless is easiest to shift
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

On my Leaf, the A/C uses 1500 watts when first cooling down. After
that, it bounces between about 500 watts and 750 watts depending on
how hot it is outside. If you use a DC motor for your compressor, you
can probably pwm it so it's not drawing full power all the time.

By the by, the Leaf uses resistance heating rather than a heat pump.
The explanation I got was that the resistance heat gives instant heat
while the heat pump takes a while and doesn't save that much energy.
Guess I'll find out this winter how much power the heater actually
uses.

Dave



> Lee Hart <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> An idling traction motor is really not wasting much power.
> >
> > Chris Zach wrote:
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

>From: Willie McKemie <. A/C knocks the Leaf range down from
about 100 miles to about 85 miles<

So 15% of you 24wk goes to cooling ,, if 2 hour driving than 1.8kw per
hour this would equal about 12 amps from and 150v pack . The
MasterFlux pulls about 3.5 amps . So you'll need a stand alone unit
that is about 4 time larger to equal the leaf's. If running a belt AC
off the tail shaft used 2.5kw of power and a stand alone used 1.8wh (
like the leaf which we will assume is the best eff. ) . Wouldn't it be
best to just use the car AC compressor and set up the traction motor
to run in natural . Roland's way of doing is probable the best but
there are other ways also . By putting a variable resistor ( maybe
2k ) in series with the pot box and a switch that shorts out the new
idler pot for driving you could have your AC run off the traction
motor ( turn off switch and put idler pot in the circuit ) and leave
the traction motor running when you wanted AC but not driving . Maybe
others will common on the size pulley to use on the traction motor . I
use a smaller one than what was on the gas engine.
Steve Clunn



--
Tomorrows Ride TODAY !
Visit our shop web page at: www.Greenshedconversions.com

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

A note of the size of the drive pulley on the pilot shaft to run a A/C or 
any other unit.

The A/C normally comes with a 5 inch pulley attach to the clutch. On a 
engine they normally use a 6 inch pulley. So if you run your motor over 
5000 rpm the A/C compressor would be going over 6000 rpm. A alternator on 
the same drive pulley uses a 3 inch pulley, so the alternator would be going 
about 10000 rpm.

You need initially only 1150 rpm to excited a alternator, so if you idle the 
motor at 600 rpm, this is about 1200 rpm for a alternator and 600 rpm for 
the A/C in a two pulley drive system.

The only thing I do not like is running the alternator and vacuum pump at 
10000 rpm and A/C at 5000 rpm, so I use a 3.25 inch drive pulley on the main 
motor pilot shaft. Just have to increase the rpm up to 1200 rpm which will 
happen any way when I get up to 10 mph in 1st gear to get the 
alternator-inverter excited. It will stay excited after that even it goes 
down to 400 rpm.

I use a industrial V6 cog belt instead of a power belt design for a engine. 
These can turn sharp radius around small pulleys which will last longer and 
takes less power to drive these belts.

One test I do to see how easy a 7000 lb EV can roll, is that I can rotate 
the alternator pulley with one hand and move the EV in 1st gear. I measure 
the torque with a inch pound torque wrench and its only takes 8 in.lbs to 
move the EV. The multiplication factor through the multi belt drive , 
transmission and differential is over 50:1 ratio.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Clunn" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 9:52 PM
Subject: [EVDL] electric air conditioning compressors


>From: Willie McKemie <. A/C knocks the Leaf range down from
about 100 miles to about 85 miles<

So 15% of you 24wk goes to cooling ,, if 2 hour driving than 1.8kw per
hour this would equal about 12 amps from and 150v pack . The
MasterFlux pulls about 3.5 amps . So you'll need a stand alone unit
that is about 4 time larger to equal the leaf's. If running a belt AC
off the tail shaft used 2.5kw of power and a stand alone used 1.8wh (
like the leaf which we will assume is the best eff. ) . Wouldn't it be
best to just use the car AC compressor and set up the traction motor
to run in natural . Roland's way of doing is probable the best but
there are other ways also . By putting a variable resistor ( maybe
2k ) in series with the pot box and a switch that shorts out the new
idler pot for driving you could have your AC run off the traction
motor ( turn off switch and put idler pot in the circuit ) and leave
the traction motor running when you wanted AC but not driving . Maybe
others will common on the size pulley to use on the traction motor . I
use a smaller one than what was on the gas engine.
Steve Clunn



--
Tomorrows Ride TODAY !
Visit our shop web page at: www.Greenshedconversions.com

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| Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
|
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Steve Clunn wrote:
> > >From: Willie McKemie <. ?A/C knocks the Leaf range down from
> > about 100 miles to about 85 miles<
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> On 11 Aug 2011 at 6:33, Willie McKemie wrote:
> 
> > I'm thinking now of a dedicated motor driving an automotive
> > compressor.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Willie,

Older (2001-2003) Prius still use the mechanical
(belt driven) AC so the engine had to run in order
to get AC (switch on AC = cause engine to run permanently)
only the newer (2004+) Prius has electric AC, run from a
smaller section of the main inverter which already used to
house a dual inverter (for the two motors in the transaxle)
where the two were of unequal size (as the power of the two
motors was unequal), so everything very much optimized.
The HV traction pack of the 2004+ is 201V but this gets
boosted to 500V inside the inverter (yet another switcher
that works as bi-dir DC/DC) when needed, to allow the inverter
to generate high enough voltages to power the motors.
You can find this (and much more) about the Prius and
probably in the same way about the other Hybrids, on the
technical discussion groups about these vehicles.
My suggestion would be to start with a standard off-the-shelf
BLDC motor and controller for your 160V DC (which is relative
close to the rectified 120V AC, so it may be easy to find
controls for it that are intended for 120V AC powering)

Success,

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP: +31877841130
Tel: +1 408 383 7626 Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of EVDL Administrator
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 9:49 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] electric air conditioning compressors



> On 11 Aug 2011 at 6:33, Willie McKemie wrote:
> 
> > I'm thinking now of a dedicated motor driving an automotive
> > compressor.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Willie McKemie <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Apparently no one here knows or is willing to speak of Insight, Prius,
> > Civic Hybrid, or other electric drive compressors?
> 
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Willie McKemie <[email protected]> wrote:
> > After my sorry experience and the great cost I've incurred, I'm
> > dis-enamored with tail shaft drive compressors. I'm thinking now of
> > a dedicated motor driving an automotive compressor. Any suggestions on
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I've heard that treadmill motors work well for this.




> Willie McKemie wrote:
> >
> >
> > After my sorry experience and the great cost I've incurred, I'm
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

The treadmill motors I have played with before tended to be a little "cheap=
", sleeve bearings etc. Would hate to put a lot of effort into building an =
A/C compressor unit then have to rebuild / redesign it again down too soon.=
DC



________________________________
From: AMPhibian <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] electric air conditioning compressors

I've heard that treadmill motors work well for this.




> Willie McKemie wrote:
> > =
> 
> > =
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> David Chapman wrote:
> > The treadmill motors I have played with before tended to be a little "cheap", sleeve bearings etc. Would hate to put a lot of effort into building an A/C compressor unit then have to rebuild / redesign it again down too soon. DC
> 
> An inexpensive motor with a 500 hour life expectancy would probably be
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I still have some of those motors if you are interested. - Rod

Here's some notes from Roland that was posted on the EVDL several years ago,

I running these thread mill motors that I got from Rod Hower. I gang two of 
the motor together and connected them in series on a 180 volt battery pack. 
I connected the motor together by welding the bracket from one motor to the 
housing of the next. Sandwich the motor face plate between two 1/4 inch 
aluminum support plates, so I can tilt both motors at the same time. This 
also reinforce the front bearing plate where I pull off with a double 
industrial cog belt that running all the accessories units that is mounted 
on a GMC front engine accessory support unit.

These motors have a 17 mm shaft on it which is a hair larger than a 5/8 inch 
taper lock bushing I install on the motor shafts. Install a triple V 2 inch 
pulley on these bushings where two groves run the double belts and the third 
grove is use to connect the two motor pulleys together with a 3/8 diameter 
by 5 inch long 0-ring use as a belt.

The 180 volts on two 90 volt motors are about 8000 rpm, which is too fast to 
run the accessories directly. My pulleys on the accessories are about 5 
inch diameter, so this gives about 2.5:1 ratio speed reduction or about 8000 
rpm /2.5 = 3200 rpm.

I find I can reduce the rpm even more by tapping off four DC-DC converters 
that are connected in series for any voltage output of 14.5, 29, 43.5 and 58 
volts. I now have each motor connected to 29 volts for about 2800 rpm 
unloaded.

I also mounted small round 12 vdc cooling fans that are normally use for 
power supplys. The motor housing is a little over 3 inch O.D., so I slip on 
a short length of 3 inch PVC I.D. pipe over the end of the motor which the 
fans are mounted on.

These motors have four leads coming out of it. The RED and BLACK leads from 
the brush holders and two BLUE leads which are a plug in thermo sensor which 
are NORMALLY CLOSE that is just under the insulated bearing end plate.

I connected one end of the blue wire to chassis 12 negative ground and the 
other blue wire went to GREEN LED's indications that is connected to a 12+ 
ignition source.

The GREEN LED's on indication show the motor temperature is in the normal 
operating range. If you want to reversed this indication, have a RED LED's 
on indication when motor is at over temperature, just run the BLUE WIRE to a 
Normally Close relay and then to a RED LED indication.

I also install a amp meter shunt on these accessory motors, because I want 
to make sure that I do not overload these motors. I ran these motors on a 
test bench which I ran a alternator loaded up 100 amps or 1200 watts, which 
pull a load of 23 amps per motor. It is best to keep about half that rating 
per motor to keep the motor temperature down.

Roland
> What I did at first with a PM 1.75 hp motors rated at 90 to 130 VDC 
> was gang
> two of these motors together to drive the A/C and wire the motor in 
> series
> off a 180 volt pack.
>
> I bought 5 motors and had to switch them around until two of them 
> ran at
> about 90 volts, instead one was at 60 volt and the other was at 120 
> volts.
>
> They ran ok, but these motors would run at 8000 rpm at 80 volts. 
> This was
> too fast to run the A/C clutch which has a 5 inch pulley and a 2.25 
> pulley
> on the motor. This cut the rpm down to just below 4000 rpm which 
> was still
> too much which made the double cogs belts heat up.
>
> I only needed about 800 to 3000 rpm to run the A/C pump, so I said, 
> wait a
> minute. I have four IOTA's DC-DC converter than I could connected 
> in any
> series/parallel configuration.
>
> Connecting the IOTA's in series for 14.5 volts each, I tested run 
> two motors
> which were connected parallel:
>
>
> Four IOTA's - 58.0 volts - 4830 RPM - 22.3 amps - 3700 A/C RPM
>
> Three IOTA's - 43.5 volts - 3280 RPM - 20.2 amps - 2520 A/C RPM
>
> Two IOTA'S - 29.0 volts - 2300 RPM - 19.8 amps - 1800 A/C RPM
>
>
> I am now using two IOTA's in series which are parallel with two more 
> units.
> These units are also providing 14.5 volts to other accessory units.
>
>
> Another way I could have run these thread mill motors is use a 
> thread mill
> controller that I could have run off my DC-AC inverter which runs 
> off the
> accessory deep charge 12 volt battery and/or 14.5 volt IOTA's or the
> alternator that is normally use for REGEN braking when I am going 
> down some
> steep hills.
>
> When my EV is park and the AC is plug in, I have a transfer switch 
> which
> transfer the on-board inverter to the out board commercial power. In 
> this
> way I can run all these accessory motors and pre-cool or pre-heat 
> the EV
> before I leave.
>
> Roland


I found Rod Hower offering treadmill motors in the archives. About 
2007, as I recall. Did any of those motors get put to EV use?

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| Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
| Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
|
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

On 8/29/2011 3:45 PM, Willie McKemie wrote:
>


> David Chapman wrote:
> >> The treadmill motors I have played with before tended to be a little "cheap", sleeve bearings etc. Would hate to put a lot of effort into building an A/C compressor unit then have to rebuild / redesign it again down too soon. DC
> >
> > An inexpensive motor with a 500 hour life expectancy would probably be
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Rod, I was just about to type in the following data you save from me. Just 
save me a lot of typing.

If you use these tread mill motors, it is best to put a speed controller on 
them which can lower the rpm as is explain in the below statements.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rod Hower" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] electric air conditioning compressors


>
>
> I still have some of those motors if you are interested. - Rod
>
> Here's some notes from Roland that was posted on the EVDL several years 
> ago,
>
> I running these thread mill motors that I got from Rod Hower. I gang two 
> of
> the motor together and connected them in series on a 180 volt battery 
> pack.
> I connected the motor together by welding the bracket from one motor to 
> the
> housing of the next. Sandwich the motor face plate between two 1/4 inch
> aluminum support plates, so I can tilt both motors at the same time. This
> also reinforce the front bearing plate where I pull off with a double
> industrial cog belt that running all the accessories units that is mounted
> on a GMC front engine accessory support unit.
>
> These motors have a 17 mm shaft on it which is a hair larger than a 5/8 
> inch
> taper lock bushing I install on the motor shafts. Install a triple V 2 
> inch
> pulley on these bushings where two groves run the double belts and the 
> third
> grove is use to connect the two motor pulleys together with a 3/8 diameter
> by 5 inch long 0-ring use as a belt.
>
> The 180 volts on two 90 volt motors are about 8000 rpm, which is too fast 
> to
> run the accessories directly. My pulleys on the accessories are about 5
> inch diameter, so this gives about 2.5:1 ratio speed reduction or about 
> 8000
> rpm /2.5 = 3200 rpm.
>
> I find I can reduce the rpm even more by tapping off four DC-DC converters
> that are connected in series for any voltage output of 14.5, 29, 43.5 and 
> 58
> volts. I now have each motor connected to 29 volts for about 2800 rpm
> unloaded.
>
> I also mounted small round 12 vdc cooling fans that are normally use for
> power supplys. The motor housing is a little over 3 inch O.D., so I slip 
> on
> a short length of 3 inch PVC I.D. pipe over the end of the motor which the
> fans are mounted on.
>
> These motors have four leads coming out of it. The RED and BLACK leads 
> from
> the brush holders and two BLUE leads which are a plug in thermo sensor 
> which
> are NORMALLY CLOSE that is just under the insulated bearing end plate.
>
> I connected one end of the blue wire to chassis 12 negative ground and the
> other blue wire went to GREEN LED's indications that is connected to a 12+
> ignition source.
>
> The GREEN LED's on indication show the motor temperature is in the normal
> operating range. If you want to reversed this indication, have a RED 
> LED's
> on indication when motor is at over temperature, just run the BLUE WIRE to 
> a
> Normally Close relay and then to a RED LED indication.
>
> I also install a amp meter shunt on these accessory motors, because I want
> to make sure that I do not overload these motors. I ran these motors on a
> test bench which I ran a alternator loaded up 100 amps or 1200 watts, 
> which
> pull a load of 23 amps per motor. It is best to keep about half that 
> rating
> per motor to keep the motor temperature down.
>
> Roland
> > What I did at first with a PM 1.75 hp motors rated at 90 to 130 VDC
> > was gang
> > two of these motors together to drive the A/C and wire the motor in
> > series
> > off a 180 volt pack.
> >
> > I bought 5 motors and had to switch them around until two of them
> > ran at
> > about 90 volts, instead one was at 60 volt and the other was at 120
> > volts.
> >
> > They ran ok, but these motors would run at 8000 rpm at 80 volts.
> > This was
> > too fast to run the A/C clutch which has a 5 inch pulley and a 2.25
> > pulley
> > on the motor. This cut the rpm down to just below 4000 rpm which
> > was still
> > too much which made the double cogs belts heat up.
> >
> > I only needed about 800 to 3000 rpm to run the A/C pump, so I said,
> > wait a
> > minute. I have four IOTA's DC-DC converter than I could connected
> > in any
> > series/parallel configuration.
> >
> > Connecting the IOTA's in series for 14.5 volts each, I tested run
> > two motors
> > which were connected parallel:
> >
> >
> > Four IOTA's - 58.0 volts - 4830 RPM - 22.3 amps - 3700 A/C RPM
> >
> > Three IOTA's - 43.5 volts - 3280 RPM - 20.2 amps - 2520 A/C RPM
> >
> > Two IOTA'S - 29.0 volts - 2300 RPM - 19.8 amps - 1800 A/C RPM
> >
> >
> > I am now using two IOTA's in series which are parallel with two more
> > units.
> > These units are also providing 14.5 volts to other accessory units.
> >
> >
> > Another way I could have run these thread mill motors is use a
> > thread mill
> > controller that I could have run off my DC-AC inverter which runs
> > off the
> > accessory deep charge 12 volt battery and/or 14.5 volt IOTA's or the
> > alternator that is normally use for REGEN braking when I am going
> > down some
> > steep hills.
> >
> > When my EV is park and the AC is plug in, I have a transfer switch
> > which
> > transfer the on-board inverter to the out board commercial power. In
> > this
> > way I can run all these accessory motors and pre-cool or pre-heat
> > the EV
> > before I leave.
> >
> > Roland
>
>
> I found Rod Hower offering treadmill motors in the archives. About
> 2007, as I recall. Did any of those motors get put to EV use?
>
> _______________________________________________
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Have you looked at Masterflux A/C units? They will run off pack voltage.



> Willie McKemie <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 11:20:12AM -0700, David Chapman wrote:
> >> The treadmill motors I have played with before tended to be a little
> "cheap", sleeve bearings etc. Would hate to put a lot of effort into
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> David Nelson wrote:
> > Have you looked at Masterflux A/C units? They will run off pack voltage.
> 
> Yes, early on in this thread I said "Other than MasterFlux, what are my
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Subject: Re: [EVDL] electric air conditioning compressors
T
>I've heard that treadmill motors work well for this.<

My experience has not been the same , and I have wasted money and time
trying to get them to work. most are over rated in hp . and since the
rpm is so high they need a lot of gearing down . My last attempt was
using 2- 2.5 hp what looked like a better quality that the open frame
treadmill motors . I did not use a jack shaft to get the 8 to 1 ratio
that I probably needed , was maybe 3 to one . When the compressor came
on it loaded the motors down till they arced and blew out ,, 200
dollars gone in less that 10 seconds. But since I had already wasted
money on other cheap ones just more of the same . This was because the
car I was doing was direct drive without a tranny and the A/C unit was
from a Cadallic , customer never paid to have Hurst finnished and its
up for sale on our site. Maybe a small A/C compressor , maybe a
bigger motor , maybe a series motor instead of tread mill .. . , .



> Willie McKemie wrote:
> >
> >
> > After my sorry experience and the great cost I've incurred, I'm
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Steve Clunn wrote:
> 
> > > After my sorry experience and the great cost I've incurred, I'm
> > > dis-enamored with tail shaft drive compressors.
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Solectria built quite a few cars and pickups with a small brushless DC motor 
(maybe 4" diameter) and a controller driving the factory aircon system. 
They used a cogged belt (like an ICE's timing belt). It was a bit noisy but 
quite effective. You might see if Azure could sell you something similar 
today. If so it would probably be on the pricey side, but you never know.

I wonder if you could drive a factory aircon compressor with something like 
the small Scott motors that Electrathon cars used perhaps 15-20 years ago 
(and maybe still do today). They were rated around 1hp continuous. They 
ran on 12 to 24 (maybe 36-48?) volts, so you'd need a controller - but you'd 
probably want that anyway to limit the current on starting.

I see that Cloud Electric is advertising one :

http://www.cloudelectric.com/product_p/mo-4bb2488.htm

Note that this is not an endorsement of Cloud Electric.

I would think that Lynch (UK) would offer something appropriate too.

One other option might be one of the 6.7" ADC or D&D series motors. This is 
kind of overkill, though, and finding room for it would be more of a 
challenge. The price will be over $1k.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Checkout Masterflux electric AC compressors. I have installed one in my EV. The Masterflux controller runs off my 160VDC traction pack. Connects to evaporator and condenser already in car. Only draws 5 amps.
Is adjustable from 4000 - 16000 BTU. I live in South Florida and it works great. System only costs around $1400.00. You can order it from Revolt.

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I came across an ad in an SAE magazine for www.ecycle.com, advertising their high-efficiency brushless DC powered vehicle A/C compressors:

<http://www.ecycle.com/compdrives.html>

As expected, the current requirements are pretty hefty at 12V, but one can always inquire about higher input voltage version using the email link on the page.

Roger.


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