# Parking Brake Alternative



## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

from someone who has ALWAYS used the parking brake instead of the shifter to keep the car in place, I can say I've never had one fail. If it needs adjusting, you'll know right away - it simply won't hold the car. 

In places where you park on a very steep hill, you should curb your tires. Turn them out and let them roll back against the curb if you're facing up the hill - opposite if facing down the hill.

One thing I noticed about my car... I need the parking brake worked on! I've adjusted it as tight as the cable will go and still won't hold on any incline... the cables do get stretched out over time (use) and will eventually need to be replaced.

They do make curved plastic chocks (?) meant to hold the car in place. Try any autoparts store.


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## taff224 (Dec 4, 2008)

As has been said by PatricioIN, the parking brake is there to use when parking. I never understand why people use the gears and enginer compression to hold the car stationary, it's the wrong method and actually goes against the manufacturers instructions (or at least all the ones I've read).

The only time I've ever heard of them failing is if they are badly maintained and it usually happens when they are initially put on, not during parking. The only time I would suggest not using the parking brake would be if the car was to be left for an extended period of time (months), then I would put in gear and add chocks, to remove the risk that the parking brake siezed in place.

As for an alternative...as you say chocks and suchlike are an option, but are a pain if the weather is awful and you have to spend 30 seconds dragging it out from under the wheels and putting it in the boot (Trunk for the US readers).

You could go for a toothed locking method on the flywheel (if you still have it fitted), but you risk this coming on when driving if not designed correctly and this would be a dangerous and expensive mistake.

Personally I'd stick with the parking brake and some regular maintenance checks.

Chris


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Just get it fixed or get new cables for it. I know here in MA you MUST have a working parking brake/emergency brake, or you will not pass inspection. It's one of those Mandatory safety features like seat belts. And you also can't modify it past anything other than getting it fixed.


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> Just get it fixed or get new cables for it. I know here in MA you MUST have a working parking brake/emergency brake, or you will not pass inspection. It's one of those Mandatory safety features like seat belts. And you also can't modify it past anything other than getting it fixed.


I had to modify it and thus part of my concern. I'm going to keep an eye on it and much more as this is my first electric and it was all built in house but for the motor etc.

It's working fine but I'm just not used to depending on such a thin cable to hold this car in place. Maybe if I know the breaking strength of this cable I would be more trusting of it. It's about an eighth inch thick or thinner maybe. 

One thing I thought of was a small air cylinder using air pressure from the vacuum pump. It can be used for pressure as well. Have the cylinder push a pawl of some type to interface with the drive shaft in some way.


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

Re no problem depending on the parking brake: I was thinking an S10 wasn't designed to carry around 1500 pounds of lead but then I forgot with the motor out that has removed a few hundred pounds. Best case we're parking the truck at capacity on a hill. That's just a little scary to contemplate. Safety of my truck and anyone who may be the unfortunate one who is traveling down the road as this thing rolls out in front of them!


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

1/8 cable properly swaged will support about 2000 lbs with a safety factor of about 10%

th cable in the ranger looks to be 3/16 so perhaps 3500 lb to 5000lbs

the cable isn't typically the concern, it is the other components, unless it is severely worn and some of the strands are damaged/missing

a rod through the cooling holes in the rim, long enough to hit the body and become a positive wheel lock?


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## madderscience (Jun 28, 2008)

Automatic transmissions have locking pawls that engage when the transmission is in "park". Manuals don't because the best practice is to leave the car in gear when it is parked AND apply the parking brake.

A well maintained parking brake should be pretty reliable. the most likely source of failure is a corroded or fatigued cable. If the car is more than a decade old (especially in road salt areas) this is a valid concern.

My 1985 Toyota MR2's parking brake cable broke a couple of months after I finished the conversion. I had rebuilt or replaced every single other brake component but the cables (which looked great where visible) I did not do. Oops. It snapped when I was applying it. I used wheel chocks ala "The gods must be crazy" for parking for a week or two until the new parts arrived.

The parking brake is also usable as an emergency brake which is doubly important with an EV since there is no engine compression (unless you are lucky enough to have regen)

If you haven't tried this, find a deserted stretch of road and actually try stopping the car with the emergency brake. It will work but it won't be as effective as the regular brakes, but it will give you a good idea what it can (or can't do)

If in any doubt, replace the cables and inspect everything else. Give it a good panic yank or two and see what happens.

As for routine parking, a good trick which I do anytime there is much of a hill is to park with the wheels turned and up against a curb (if available). This way even if the car somehow rolls away it will turn and hit something soon and relatively slowly (instead of speeding way up and hitting something much faster at the bottom of a long straightaway).

Good luck.


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

One thing that may be problematic with the northern guys is that the e-brake shoes/drums may freeze in cold weather.

Just thought I'd throw that out there...


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

Land Rovers (mines a 96) have a driveshaft mounted parking brake. Maybe you could make some adapters to make it fit if you are really concerned about it. Just don't use it as an emergency brake, I've heard it can shear the driveshaft bolts if you pull it while driving. I would suspect the park brake on your truck should be adequate if it is in working condition and you are not exceeding gvwr.

another option is to use wheel chocks


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## BHall (Aug 1, 2007)

Don't know of an alternative just yet but you definitely need to have the parking brake working for an EV. I just got mine in operational condition the other week and even with the ICE still in there it has been a dream......ah the simplest things.

Brian


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

perhaps the driveline brake from a 2 ton or better chassis. Ford and chebbie both use them on their motor homes, and they are quick simple and reliable. Junkyard makes them relatively cheap, too


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

piotrsko said:


> perhaps the *driveline brake* from a 2 ton or better chassis. Ford and chebbie both use them on their motor homes, and they are quick simple and reliable. Junkyard makes them relatively cheap, too


I Image Googled "driveline brake" and came up with this on one of the very first images.


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## JSRacer (Jun 22, 2008)

Try this site. I believe they have a bunch of options. 

http://www.mico.com/index.php


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## Beyonder (Sep 18, 2008)

Why not use a drive line type brake connected to your electric motor under the hood? Cable would be easily accessible for regular inspection. 
Also in a case where your parking brake is in the rear wheels, you could modify it to run on 2 levers/pedals. You would almost be guaranteed that it would not fail.
A possible third option would be to wire a locking/unlocking solenoid into your ignition with a light in your dash that would turn on when the vehicle was off ( showing the brakes engaged and off when dissengaged ) so the the brakes would engage when powered and disengage when not powered Only problem I see with this option is if the fuse ever blew your brakes would come on. If the brake failed the light would simply stay off/on depending on the failure and you would know right away. The first 2 suggestions would be the simplest to impliment I think...


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## martymcfly (Sep 10, 2008)

I am surprised that nobody has mentioned a line lock like used in drag racing or on forklifts. The downside is if is a VW, your brake lights would always be on. Maybe brakes freezing in cold weather, but that could happen anyway.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm thinking chocks are a good backup when parked on an incline. Either cheapo plastic one, or just cut a length of 2x2 or 4x4 angle iron.


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## Coley (Jul 26, 2007)

new cables-new brake parts-well lubed where needed- no problem....


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