# Motor to transmission adaptors



## elevatorguy (Jul 26, 2007)

There are a few options. One is to purchase from a supplier, costs vary depending on vehicle and supplier, 600 to 1000 plus.
You can keep your clutch and the adapter is made to mount your flywheel to the motor at the cost of extra parts and weight, (Flywheel clutch, pressure plate)
Since you really don't need the clutch to get going and can shift without one, another option is to drive the transmission directly from the motor.
Adapter plates and couplers can be made by a machinest, or if your skills are up to it, it can be a DIY project. Or just purchase from a supplier.
The motor to transmission adapter can be made with the center of your clutch disc and a hub that fits your motor.
Hope that helps a bit.


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## fast_eddie_72 (Nov 29, 2008)

Thank you Jerry,

That did help. I haven't seen one of these motors up close and personal yet, but in the pictures they appear to simply have a cylindrical shaft. How is the adaptor physically mated to that shaft?

Thanks,

Ed


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## elevatorguy (Jul 26, 2007)

fast_eddie_72 said:


> Thank you Jerry,
> 
> That did help. I haven't seen one of these motors up close and personal yet, but in the pictures they appear to simply have a cylindrical shaft. How is the adaptor physically mated to that shaft?
> 
> ...


The motor shaft is just a standard shaft with a keyway unless you are using a forklift motor, most of those have splines.
The adapters can be affixed with set screws or wedge type that clamps the shaft as well.


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## ga2500ev (Apr 20, 2008)

One way that's DIY that makes a lot of sense uses two steel plates separated by aluminum spacers. The motor and the transmission are coupled using a lovejoy coupler.

A YouTube of the process is here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BI0292l71o

Hope this helps,

ga2500ev


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

One of the most secure methods of attaching to the keyed shaft is with a taper lock bushing and hub. With this arrangement clamping force is applied to the shaft by tightening a number of screws that pull a tapered bushing into a tapered receiver hub. This arrangement also uses a key and usually a set screw on top of the key. I personally like this better than the through hubs with set screws only as they have been known to come loose. Spacers can be made to take up any un-used shaft length if desired. I have some details on my thread if u want to look. http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/good-ohmn-here-we-go-23492.html

Cheers.

Gary


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## ga2500ev (Apr 20, 2008)

Where would I start for a plate/coupling for a 1990 Honda Civic DX Hatchback? I'd prefer to DIY if possible.

ga2500ev


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## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

I was going to link a picture of my motor adapter here but seems I haven't loaded that picture yet. I'll place this post here so I remember. 

I went with a taper lock modified machined by a local machinist. For the adapter plate I made it out of 2 plates. One for the motor (with a little machining) and one for the trans (which I made by match drilling and jig saw) Then aligned them using the clutch and motor and bolted together. 

With machining I think I've spent about $250 though one of the plates I started with was free (piece of scrap metal I had) so add maybe another $60 if I had to buy that new. So if you can find an adapter (plate and motor coupler) for $600 it's probably worth it to just buy it.

Thaniel

Edit: Here is the pic of my motor to flywheel adapter.


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

I spent $90 for the aluminum for my adapter plates and did the work myself with a drill press and a handheld jigsaw... here's the video that explains most of what I did...

there are also many pics and more detail on my cardomain site (page 6 - link in sig line)


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## fast_eddie_72 (Nov 29, 2008)

PatricioIN said:


> here's the video that explains most of what I did...


That's actually really helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do that while you were doing your build!


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## peggus (Feb 18, 2008)

Here's my solution

Adapter plate:
http://www.electric-lemon.com/?q=node/203

Coupler:
http://www.electric-lemon.com/?q=node/213
http://www.electric-lemon.com/?q=node/218


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## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

PatricioIN said:


> I spent $90 for the aluminum for my adapter plates and did the work myself with a drill press and a handheld jigsaw... here's the video that explains most of what I did...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## ClintK (Apr 27, 2008)

PatricioIN said:


> I spent $90 for the aluminum for my adapter plates and did the work myself with a drill press and a handheld jigsaw...


I did similar for my adapter. (Although I wouldn't necessary recommend my method for dimensioning the plate .)

IMHO... the adapter plate is very doable by yourself at home, but you need a good machinist / machine shop to make the coupler.


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

after having done it, I totally agree with Clint.. I paid $260 for a VERY professionally done coupler and just did the plate myself. I'm not worried about either one of them failing!


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## drdonh (Aug 8, 2008)

If its any help, here's my attempt at an adapter plate and coupler. You will see it very DIY and simple. Just search through to find the relevant pictures in my blog at:

ev-a40.blogspot.com

Don.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

ga2500ev said:


> Where would I start for a plate/coupling for a 1990 Honda Civic DX Hatchback? I'd prefer to DIY if possible.
> 
> ga2500ev


I don't have access to a mill or lathe... so went commercial to CanEV.com as they seem to have it down to a science. Probably run you around $750-900 depending on specific and whether they have done exact one before.

I have a series of pix on my site starting with
http://envirokarma.org/ev/gallery/080619_02.layout.htm
that cover the assembly.


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