# Tachometer installations



## rwaudio (May 22, 2008)

I used this exact sensor on my Warp 11HV feeding the Soliton1 which translates the signal to run my dash tach.

The bracket is designed to bolt right up to the Warp motors, install takes a couple minutes, I couldn't be happier with it.

Even if I didn't have a dashboard tach I would still use this sensor for over rev limiting in the controller.


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

Does anyone have experience installing this hall effect rpm sensor on ADC motors like 4001?

Txs, -Y.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Just make sure you buy the double shaft motor as you need a stub shaft to mount it on.

You will need to order the correct sensor ring for the motor shaft diameter and probably drill & tap two 1/4" NC holes in the motor's end plate.

Pretty simple. Miz


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I think HPEVS has or will have a tach output for their AC systems.


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## swoozle (Nov 13, 2011)

You can put one of these together yourself by buying one of the sensors for $30:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=GS100701virtualkey54010000virtualkey540-GS100701

adding the appropriate pullup resistor per the datasheet
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/gs1005_1009.pdf

tapping through the wall of a section of aluminum tube out and adding the appropriate set screws/machine screws and fabbing up a mounting bracket like so.








This is the installation on my Del Sol. A direct connection to the tach input works great. It wanted 2 pulses per rotation, hence the two machine screws and two set screws.


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## gojo (Feb 1, 2011)

I made a tach for a couple of pennies. I figured out my RPM's per mile in every gear. Then I made a list showing the optimal speed in each gear, and the range in each gear. 

I then taped the list over my non working tach. I call it a poor man's tach, and it does everything a real tach could do for me, but I'll admit, it's not as much fun.


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Love it!


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

Hey guys, lot of info...  thank you so much


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

gojo said:


> I then taped the list over my non working tach. I call it a poor man's tach, and it does everything a real tach could do for me, but I'll admit, it's not as much fun.


Mine's even cheaper as I skipped the paper and tape 

Unfortunately, it doesn't work well in neutral or with the wheels up.


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## dladd (Jun 1, 2011)

I installed that same sensor from rechargecar on my conversion. It feeds a 4 pulse/rev signal to my Synkromotive controller for overrev protection, and also feeds directly to the tach (bypassing the ECU). Unfortunately the tach requires a 6 pulse/rev signal, so the gauge reads 4/6 too low.  I just know that 3300rpm = 5000rpm redline. I initially wanted to make a custom overlay, but it's a pain in the butt to get to the gauge face, so I'll just add that to the LONG list of things I will never get done.  Not really too important anyway as my car is well out of the power curve by 4000rpm, not much chance of me accidentally overspeeding it. Maybe down a big hill?

I think the biggest challenge of getting a tach working again is knowing what signal is required for it. There is no one size fits all standard here. Fwiw, in a 4 cylinder Saturn, you need a 6 pulse/rev signal fed directly to the tachometer, it's the white wire feeding the instrument cluster behind the dash.


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## PTCruisin (Nov 19, 2009)

Here's another DIY approach using an optical sensor.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76707


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## ndplume (May 31, 2010)

Anyone understand the signal needed to run the Tach on a 92 VW Rabbit? My controller (DC Raptor) has a pulsed output, but the tach doesn't respond at all. I've seen some reference to needing a coil sensor???


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## mk4gti (May 6, 2011)

It's a negative signal (common), you should be able to make it work. The coil reference is from the ICE, the tach would go directly on the coil negative. If I recall correctly, the tach has 4 impulses per revolution.


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

in lot of cases Tachometer has 3 flat mail connectors on the back:

- Positive 12v
- Negative Ground
- Input ( this is looking for to be grounded by distributor when it closes contacts and it could be 4, 6, 8 times per revolution )

My 2c


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## ndplume (May 31, 2010)

Thanks, so what I'm envisioning is that the tach signal line it normally 12V, and then has 4 neg pulses each revolution? Yes?

I'll check my Raptor Manual, but it may be as simple as putting a pull up resistor on the tach output signal. I'm noticing that the other outputs on that Controller seem to simply "ground" when activated.


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

Hey swoozle,
Question here,
Did you put any thread-lock on sensor thread?
I think it could get loose with vibration... or small nuts should hold it???
Txs, -Y.



swoozle said:


> You can put one of these together yourself by buying one of the sensors for $30:
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=GS100701virtualkey54010000virtualkey540-GS100701
> 
> adding the appropriate pullup resistor per the datasheet
> ...


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

Also, I think in every car out there there are Power supplied to every electric component and computer "ground" it to operate, but 1 component is getting power applied by computer... Injectors, due to the safety regulations (no power - when crash occurred)

-Y.



ndplume said:


> Thanks, so what I'm envisioning is that the tach signal line it normally 12V, and then has 4 neg pulses each revolution? Yes?
> 
> I'll check my Raptor Manual, but it may be as simple as putting a pull up resistor on the tach output signal. I'm noticing that the other outputs on that Controller seem to simply "ground" when activated.


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## swoozle (Nov 13, 2011)

1-ev.com said:


> Hey swoozle,
> Question here,
> Did you put any thread-lock on sensor thread?
> I think it could get loose with vibration... or small nuts should hold it???
> Txs, -Y.


Hmmm, I did not. And they are kinda weenie little nuts. I should do that. 
I did think about getting larger nuts (those little ones came with the sensor) but that hasn't bubbled up to the top of my to-do list.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

The half nuts that come with the sensor are totally adequate. They are thin to allow you a wider adjustment range. I only am using the thin lock washer provided and use two wrenches when tightning.








I use a dime to set my sensor gap.

The 6 pulses/revolution you quote represents a V12 engine.....

The 4 pulses/rev you now have mimics a V8.

If your controller needs the 4 pulse and the tach needs a 6 pulse, another ring and sensor will be necessary. Redrilling and threading the ring for 6 screws is easy.

Miz


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