# My first post. 93 Eclipse build



## rfengineers (Jun 2, 2008)

Hey HotRodder,

It looks like you are off to a great start. Keep us up to date. If you don't mind visitors I may drop in on you on my way out to Lost Wages in the Spring to see the EV. It will be done by then, right?


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## Zemmo (Sep 13, 2007)

This website might help you along the way. He did a 94 Eclipse which is pretty much the same thing you are doing. He is in our EAA chapter (NTEAA.org)

http://www.texomaev.com-a.googlepages.com/mitsubishieclipseconversion


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

HotRodder said:


> I'm also building a 39 Chevy hot rod so this will be an on and off project.


On and off? Hah! Until you start and become completely addicted like the rest of us.

Every step you get closer to completion draws you in a little more until you can't sleep or do anything except thinking of what you need to do next to get it running.

Have fun man and keep us posted!


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## HotRodder (Jan 30, 2009)

Come on by RF, if your takin' I-20 you can throw a rock and hit my shop. If the EV isn't ready, I'll take you for a real ride in something around here. 

Thanks for the link Zemmo. I sent the guy a message and asked him about his build.

The next big problem is the controller. After reading here, I don't trust any of 'em. Maybe the Electrocraft is the way to go. I don't know what $895 Canadian equates to in US$ but its got to be cheaper than the others. Don Stamper


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## HotRodder (Jan 30, 2009)

Update 2/12/2009. Got the motor out Wed., no thanks to the $27 Chiltons repair manual. It was of no use what so ever. The engine did come out of the top but would have been much easier and faster to drop the whole chunk out of the bottom. I had originally thought the Clutch had blown but I got a sinking feeling when I noticed that cutch was brand new and after a quick check found the transmission was toast. I went ahead and pulled it while I was already greasy. I had my mind made up that if a good tranny was gonna cost too much that I'd just pull the little red rice burner down to the woods and get me another glider. 

Today was a better day as I found a good trans in the local you-pull-it yard and it only set me back $76 tax and all. Tomorrow I'll try and fab up a temporary adapter to extend my input shaft so I can locate the center of my Ho-made adapter plate. That may take all day since I never work past noon on Friday. Heck if the winds not blowin' I may just go fishing instead. Early retirement is like that! 

Maybe I'll add some car pictures tomorrow. Seeya, Don


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## HotRodder (Jan 30, 2009)

Well, I finally got around to uploading some pictures to show my progress. I have dial-up so making a picture post is really a slow and painful process. I have the motor/tranny ready to mount into the car as of this morning but I'll go back to the start to show how I got there. I anyone wants to build thier own motor adpater I highly recommend Steve Clunn's DVD available from GrassrootsEV.com. It's really some good shade tree tech that will work as good or better than most machine shops can produce. It took three trys and over a month the get a working, unbroken DVD so I had already completed the adapter and coupler before it arrived. 

The motor is gone









How do you cut the 3/4 inch aluminum plate? A skill saw with a regular carbide blade works great and will still cut plywood like nothing happened.









I used a 4 inch hole saw and a spray bottle of Diesel to cut a hole in the ruff cut adapter and centered it over my transmission. Close counts but not really important. Then I used some welding clamps to hold it while I drilled some 1/4 inch holes and located the plate with some spring pins. This solves any problems with alignment later since the bolt holes will be slightly larger and not give the accuarcy needed.









Close up of the spring pins. I use them on both the tranny plate and the motor plate. Everything stayed perfect while I drilled the mounting holes.









Next I found a 7/8 collet that fit tight on my input shaft and used a washer driven tight over it to locate my motor mount.









This next picture has a lot of info packed into it. First I turned an accurate 4.001 inch hole in the motor plate that mounted tightly over the center ring/hub on the ADC 9 inch motor then used that to locate my mounting bolts. (BTW, The 9 inch red motors use the same mounting pattern.) This middle hole will keep the motor in place no matter how big the holes are. Next I made a very tight and accurate "donut" that fit the 7/8 collet that was on my transmission input shaft and into the 4.001 inch hole to line up the motor plate onto the tranny plate. First checking the Collet with a dial indiator and make a few adjustments with a couple of light taps from a brass hammer. After the Donut located the motor plate to the input shaft I clamped and drilled for some sping pins. This assured me that placement was held while I drilled holes to connect the plates.









My coupler fab will follow. Enjoy, Don


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

Congrats on the progress!


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## HotRodder (Jan 30, 2009)

After reading everything I could find about making a motor/tranny coupler, I did my own thing. I figured if it came out bad I would be out nothing but time. I took the oil pan off the motor, removed one connection rod, and used a recip saw to cut off the end of the crankshaft. Then used a blue flame wrench to cut off the extra web that I didn't need.









Next I trued it up in my little lathe. This was way longer than I needed in the end but better safe than sorry.









Then I flipped it around and got serious. I indicated it in and then bored a 1.125 hole into it after first drilling a 1/2 inch hole through it. I used a small boring bar (Actually a 1/2 inch by 4 inch piece of HHS) to start out and the a 3/4 inch bar to keep the finnal size accurate.










Then I found a machine shop to cut the 1/4 inch keyway into it. After some fuzzy math, I cut down the length of the coupler to fit with no spacers need between the plates. The neck is cut small enough to fit against the motor bearing so I don't have to worry about the key slipping and it should make it more solid. I drilled for three set screws and used blue Loctite. 









After all that my coupler is was only off 0.002 on the side and 0.004 on the top. I hooked up a 12 volt battery, used a sharp fine file, and had the top perfect in less that 30 seconds. (Loads of great ideas like this on Steve Clunns DVD.) The end runout is better than a new car and cannot be changed unless you file the flywheel bolt holes. This would be the solution but not nessisary (can't spell and don't care!) in my case.









Controller and charger are on the way. Trojan battery prices have come down so thats a nice break. $135 for 1275's. Found some heavy duty cable lugs on Ebay for less than a buck each today, 3/12, and already bought the welding cable on the same place for half of local of EV retailers prices. Ebay also was the source for my breaker, pot box, and Tyco contactor. 

Seeya, Don


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## neljoshua (Oct 21, 2008)

Wow. This is some good info. Nice pics!

I thought about trying to make my own adapter plate as well, but I do not possess the knowledge you seem to...

Btw, IMO Haynes manuals are much more informative and useful than Chilton. That may be experience, however.


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## HotRodder (Jan 30, 2009)

Well, I finnaly drove the car today and it went without any problems. Drives simular in performance as the gas motor that I removed. I put 19 miles on it and it still had good performance left. I've been busy on some other projects lately so yesterday I decided it was time for a test drive so I just stuck it together and got a little time on it. Still lots to do but I'm slowly working at it. 

I've been planning on posting some feedback on my EV dealer experiance as I have had very few that have been positive. I bought my ADC motor through Steve Cloud in an Ebay auction. I called and talked to Steve in hopes of ordering the bulk of my other componets. Long story, short, He recommened a Kelly controller as he said they were "cheaper" and refered me to his web site to order anything I needed. Hell, I needed to talk to someone! He sounded busy and short. No paperwork, no specs, no drawing, no reciept, and no writen warranty on the motor. I contacted ADC and got a drawing and they said contact Cloud for the warranty. No more business for Cloud from me. 

Next I called EV America and ordered a Curtis contorller and a Quick Charger. I got the contoller fast but after 4 weeks I called Quick charge and the said they never got an order from EVA. No manual, no specs, no warranty on the Curtis. Scratch EVA. 

I ordered a set of gauges and a shunt from Electro automotive. After two weeks I called and they said "sorry" they forgot to ship it. I got it after 10 more days. I still like Electro since their web site was a big factor in my desire to build an EV. I think they have done a lot for the hobby. 

Moving on, I ordered a vaccum switch from EVparts.com's website. The order was completed but after 10 days I got an email that said the item was out of stock and backordered. They said it sould be here by May 1. We'll see. 

The only company that did right so far has been EV Source. evsource.com . I called to order some Curtis Contactors and they told me about the Nanfeng that is a Curtis Knock-off. I was told they have tested them and promised that they are as good as the Curtis and almost half the price. I like saving money and they shipped fast. Finnaly some good folks.















































A car in the south has to have an Air Conditioner. Its a policy! 









I used the N.C. terminal on the Pot microswitch to activate the exciter circuit on my 100 amp altenator. Any time I'm off the pedal, It sends a signal to the Alt to start charging. It coasts really good too. When I'm on the pedal, the switch is open so there is no drag from the Alt. It also activates when I turn on the head lights. I put a diode in each circuit to keep things from turning on. Its a low amp draw but I used a relay to be safe.

I know it messy now but I'll clean things up after some more testing.


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

Congrats on getting it rolling! Always a good feeling.


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## CFreeman54 (Jan 14, 2009)

Nice work Hotrodder! Question on your alternator setup; are you using that just to charge your 12 V battery/systems, or are you using it for regen on the traction pack batteries? If so, how did you get the voltage up above your pack voltage?


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