# Motor Mounting Advice for Dual Kostov K11 in Supra



## browncamaroz28 (May 14, 2014)

Nice setup! IMO if you put rubber mounts on the front mount you should have them on the rear as well. Or vice versa, if one is solid the other should be. Otherwise like you said the rear will be taking more load.


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## samwichse (Jan 28, 2012)

Wow, is this car going to be used for drag racing? That's a beast of a setup.

It looks like you're going to attach the driveshaft directly to the motor without a gearbox, is that correct? So you won't have any gearbox/transmission mounts and adapter plate taking on torque?


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## SupraEV (Mar 14, 2013)

samwichse said:


> Wow, is this car going to be used for drag racing? That's a beast of a setup.
> 
> It looks like you're going to attach the driveshaft directly to the motor without a gearbox, is that correct? So you won't have any gearbox/transmission mounts and adapter plate taking on torque?


Yes, going to be direct drive. Had to remove the W58 5-speed gearbox, because it wouldn't be able to handle the power. Will be used for street driving as well as smoking some ICE cars down the drag strip.


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## skooler (Mar 26, 2011)

Needs to be either solid at both ends or on mounts at both ends.

What controller(s) are you going to be using?

That is going to be quick. I have half of this with a soliton jr in the rx8 and that's not exactly slow.


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## SupraEV (Mar 14, 2013)

browncamaroz28 said:


> Nice setup! IMO if you put rubber mounts on the front mount you should have them on the rear as well. Or vice versa, if one is solid the other should be. Otherwise like you said the rear will be taking more load.


Cheers man. Will look into it a bit more. There's nothing much out there on dual motor mounting. Think I might just remove the engine mounts and extend the front mount down to chassis.


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## samwichse (Jan 28, 2012)

SupraEV said:


> Cheers man. Will look into it a bit more. There's nothing much out there on dual motor mounting. Think I might just remove the engine mounts and extend the front mount down to chassis.


If you don't mind transmitting a little extra vibration, direct chassis mounting would be your safest bet with all that power.


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## SupraEV (Mar 14, 2013)

skooler said:


> Needs to be either solid at both ends or on mounts at both ends.
> 
> What controller(s) are you going to be using?
> 
> That is going to be quick. I have half of this with a soliton jr in the rx8 and that's not exactly slow.


Well initially I was going to go two Soliton 1 controllers. One on each motor, but then decided to go Zilla 2k and have it switch parallel or series to get the most out of the motor. Best bang for buck. 

Awesome job with the RX8! Was really impressed by it's acceleration with just a Soliton Jr.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

You might consider some gussets welded to the mounting plate for extra strength. I'd use heavy duty rubber motor mounts on both ends. I know someone who is putting a dual AC-35 in a CADDY. Custom mid mounted motors and connected to a modified PowerGlide then a very short drive shaft to the diff. The car was originally a front wheel drive vehicle. Its going to be killer when done. Mounted on rubber mounts.


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## browncamaroz28 (May 14, 2014)

Here's the build thread for the car mentioned below. http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/cadillac-eldorado-86066.html



onegreenev said:


> You might consider some gussets welded to the mounting plate for extra strength. I'd use heavy duty rubber motor mounts on both ends. I know someone who is putting a dual AC-35 in a CADDY. Custom mid mounted motors and connected to a modified PowerGlide then a very short drive shaft to the diff. The car was originally a front wheel drive vehicle. Its going to be killer when done. Mounted on rubber mounts.


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## arklan (Dec 10, 2012)

SupraEV said:


> Well initially I was going to go two Soliton 1 controllers. One on each motor, but then decided to go Zilla 2k and have it switch parallel or series to get the most out of the motor. Best bang for buck.
> 
> Awesome job with the RX8! Was really impressed by it's acceleration with just a Soliton Jr.


u could almost buy 3 zila 1khv's for the price of the 2 soliton1s
the built in contactor must have gold in it

now for "the question"...
what batteries are u gonna put in it


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

arklan said:


> u could almost buy 3 zila 1khv's for the price of the 2 soliton1s
> the built in contactor must have gold in it...


Manzanita Micro lists the Z1K-HV for $2675 and RebirthAuto lists the Soliton1 for $2975...


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## arklan (Dec 10, 2012)

Tesseract said:


> Manzanita Micro lists the Z1K-HV for $2675 and RebirthAuto lists the Soliton1 for $2975...


sol1 is 3400 here :/

so what batteries r u gonna put in?


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

I'd recommend rubber mounting. Unless your motors are absolutely perfectly balanced, even the tiniest bit of vibration will make it sound like you inside a speaker at a rock concert. OK, I exaggerate, but it can be surprising noisy. Also, a car can twist a surprising amount under hard cornering forces, bumps, and motor torque. I think rubber is best to let the car "twist around" the motor. No sense second guessing the big car companies on this one, don't they rubber mount even their electric cars?

Jegs has lots of good motor mounts:

http://www.jegs.com


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## SupraEV (Mar 14, 2013)

arklan said:


> sol1 is 3400 here :/
> 
> so what batteries r u gonna put in?


Will definitely be going Headway 38120, they have a much higher discharge rate compared to the other LiFe batteries out there. Just not looking forward to wiring them all up.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

SupraEV said:


> Will definitely be going Headway 38120, they have a much higher discharge rate compared to the other LiFe batteries


*Noooooooo! 
*Please don't do this error. The high discharge rating of those batteries is based on their capacity to dissipate heat... not because there are powerful.
So, my understanding is a single 38120S can be discharge at 10C, but not because the internal resistance is low, but because the metal casing can dissipate all the heat generate. Of course, his 10C capability is annulate when they are build in pack of many cells because they can't dissipate the heat.

Don't be fool... 38120S cells aren't more powerful than typical Lifepo4 cells!
And by the way, those cells are obsolete. Please consider other cells (advice from a guy with 40 000 Km of driving with Headway) 



Oh! and I'm for the rubber mount for your motor...


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## SupraEV (Mar 14, 2013)

Yabert said:


> *Noooooooo!
> *Please don't do this error. The high discharge rating of those batteries is based on their capacity to dissipate heat... not because there are powerful.
> So, my understanding is a single 38120S can be discharge at 10C, but not because the internal resistance is low, but because the metal casing can dissipate all the heat generate. Of course, his 10C capability is annulate when they are build in pack of many cells because they can't dissipate the heat.
> 
> ...


Cheers Yabert! Will do a bit more research into these batteries once I get to that stage. Still scratching my head around this motor mounting. I'll have a look at what these drag racing EVs are using. 

*Black Pearl. **ET:* 9.952 sec. *Specs:* Dual 11-inch WarP motors, 396 volts, HTS lithium batteries, 2 Zilla Z2k-EHVs
*Lemon Juice. **ET:* 9.80 sec. *Specs:*_ Four 10 HP GE Motors sharing a single chain, direct drive. Two 2K Zilla controllers. Flight Power 333 volt 3500 amp lithium battery pack. 9-inch Posi Rearend.
_*DC Plasma. **ET:* 10.461 sec. *Specs:*_ 1984 Pontiac Fiero, 333 volts A123 lithium polymer batteries, Dual Zilla 2K speed controllers, TransWarp 9 with Warp 9, Lincoln Mark VIII IRS 8.8 spool rear, Brusa charger.
_*Black Current. **ET:* 9.5132 sec. *Specs:*_ VW Bug, 1600 pounds, 360 volts, Zilla 2K motor controler, twin 9-inch motors 2-speed gearbox, FlightPower Lithium Polymer® EVO Ultra Nano cells.__*
White Zombie. *__*ET: *10.542 sec. _*Specs:*_ 355 volts,192 Dow Kokam lithium manganese cobalt polymer cells. Each cell is 3.7V @ 30 Ah, Zilla K2, Siamese 9" motors_*Current Eliminator. **ET:* 8.801 sec*. Specs:*_ 336 volts, Johnson Controls "Inpira" 12V batteries, Zilla 420 kW controller, custom modified electric motor, real wheel chain-driven direct drive_


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## sholland (Jan 16, 2012)

arklan said:


> sol1 is 3400 here :/
> 
> so what batteries r u gonna put in?


Sol1 is $2849 here


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Yabert said:


> *Noooooooo! *
> Please don't do this error. The high discharge rating of those batteries is based on their capacity to dissipate heat... not because there are powerful.


+ 1
Cylindrical cells are crap. Everything they do is wrong.
Too heavy
consume too much space
terminals are fragile, loosen
and they can vent their electrolyte so you cant mount them inside the car because they stink.


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## arklan (Dec 10, 2012)

pouch cells then? lower weight to get more ah?


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