# about rivnut purchase/install



## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

It is looking like I am going to have to install a few fasteners in sheet metal for my rear battery box. The strongest support I can use is a hollow 'bulkhead' which is thin sheet metal... too think to weld to.

Moly bolts seem to require a thicker material for grip to work correctly, so I have been looking for RivNut which come in various designs.... But nobody local near me seems to carry them.

Does anyone have a favorite online store that might carry 1/4-20 rivnuts for thin sheet metal application (like .02 or .04 inch thick body metal)

How about installation tips for a non-industrial shop? It looks like the 'tool' is a very expensive air gun with a tip to keep the body from spinning when drawing tight the nut. Can it be done with regular shop tools or cheap manual tool for low volume work?

.... or should I go back to considering purchase of a MIG welder capable of body welds without burning through?


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## peggus (Feb 18, 2008)

mcmaster.com has them, search for rivet nut. They also have a plier style installation tool that works well up to 5/16 size. Part number: 95585A300


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

peggus said:


> mcmaster.com has them, search for rivet nut. They also have a plier style installation tool that works well up to 5/16 size. Part number: 95585A300


perfect, thanks!
There are several choices for both the nut types and the stud types.... excellent. I found some other choices at boltdepot.com, but it looks like the selection at mcmaster.com is better.


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## morvolts (Jun 19, 2008)

Once you have one you'll wonder how you got by without it.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

actually us el cheapo guys just use a grade 9 bolt and a nut. thread the nut on the bolt, put the bolt into the rivnut with the flange facing up into the appropriate sized hole and tighten nut until it gets really really tight remove nut and bolt. rivnut SHOULD NOT spin.

a tool would be nice, but if i am installing just 2 or 3, it doesn't pay to buy the tool.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

piotrsko said:


> actually us el cheapo guys just use a grade 9 bolt and a nut. thread the nut on the bolt, put the bolt into the rivnut with the flange facing up into the appropriate sized hole and tighten nut until it gets really really tight remove nut and bolt. rivnut SHOULD NOT spin.
> 
> a tool would be nice, but if i am installing just 2 or 3, it doesn't pay to buy the tool.


I am not following what you are suggesting.... I am trying to use the rivnuts in areas where I cannot get to the back side; inside a hollow x-member/bulkhead. I tried a couple different ways to hold on to the head of the rivnut, but not having much luck yet. I cant see a way to grab the head and prevent it from spinning when I first get started.

I got two different kinds of rivet nuts. Some fairly heavy duty ones that are pretty hard to collapse, and then some much lighter 'jacknuts' that will probably be easier, but not as strong.

If you could explain your installation technique in more detail, going into a blind hole?


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

if you can get a bolt to the rivnut in your blind hole, you can install it.

after assembling the nut onto say a 2" all threaded bolt all the way up to the head, you thread the rivnut onto the bolt also. with the rivnut flange against the nut. Place the rivnut into the hole and tighten the nut against the rivnut until it gets really hard to tighten any more. the nut functions exactly as the rivnut installer tool. I've installed 1/2-13 steel rivnuts this way and while it wasn't fun, it was still cheaper than the tool by a hundred bucks.

BTW you need two wrenches, one to hold the bolt from turning and the other to turn the nut


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## peggus (Feb 18, 2008)

I did a few rivnuts that way but I also had to use a shim between the nut and rivnut to keep the rivnut from spinning. Hold the shim with one hand to keep it from rotating, use a wrench to hold the bolt still with the other. With your third hand, tighten up the nut against the shim/rivnut.

It is a timeconsuming and fiddly way of installing them but it works in a pinch.

The plier style tool is well worth the cost ($55)


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

piotrsko said:


> after assembling the nut onto say a 2" all threaded bolt all the way up to the head, you thread the rivnut onto the bolt also. with the rivnut flange against the nut. Place the rivnut into the hole and tighten the nut against the rivnut ...
> BTW you need two wrenches, one to hold the bolt from turning and the other to turn the nut


..aha, now I can visualize. You are tightening the middle nut, not the bolt.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

well... by the time I had read the previous post, I had completed installing the 7 rivet nuts I plan to use, so I did not try the 'extra nut' technique. I did use a very time consuming alternative that involves drilling small holes in the flange and using finishing nails to prevent the rivet nut from spinning. It works, but may not be the best way.....


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

actually IMHO: excellent solution, especially to the 1/2 tight spinning rivnut problem. I have never thought of that at all, and you could use teensie screws to make the stoopid things FOREVER.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

I also got some much lighter duty 'jacknuts' that come with a little 'installer/holder'. They are WAY easier to install, but not as strong. I wanted to use the heavy-duty ones for the battery rack.


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