# Entire EV Wiring Diagram - Questions, Comments



## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

Nice diagram!
Have thought about using a safety inertia switch?


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I don't crash. 

I'm not sure if the airbags are hooked up or work anyways.

Where would it go? Do you need to be able to reset it from the drivers seat? Can you reset it? What if I hit a big pothole in the road? There are quite a few of those this year.


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

A 12volt 1980 MGB inertia switch could be used to power a normally closed high voltage relay for automatically disconnecting the battery pack. This could provide redundancy during an accident. 
I wrecked an MGB when a Ford Mustang hit head-on and the inertia switch worked perfectly.


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## sergiu tofanel (Jan 13, 2014)

I have a Raspberry Pi that displays an instrument cluster (for an ICE engine) on an LCD screen. The engine data is relayed by a PIC18F4550 to the Rpi via USB, and the Rpi displays the gauges in real time. I never messed with CAN, but I am curious to know how do you connect the Rpi to a CAN network.


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

Will the Raspberry Pi wirelessly connect to an iPad?


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## sergiu tofanel (Jan 13, 2014)

sunworksco said:


> Will the Raspberry Pi wirelessly connect to an iPad?


I log into the Rpi via tightvnc. VNC (virtual network computing) allows the user to run a virtual desktop from any machine, any operating system that has a VNC viewer. Yes, you should be able to install a VNC viewer on the iPad.


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

Thanks you!


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

VNC was what I was going to use, but over Bluetooth if I can get that working. I will have to write a program that displays the charger string as an image.

When I purchase this charger, it will come with an interface device that has USB out. It might cost a little more, but the testing and info they provide is worth it.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Here is the serial data stream.


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## palmer_md (Jul 22, 2011)

There is something not right about the battery cells on the right side and the way that the charger interfaces with them. Please review this section. To many jumpers and connections going various paths. Check all three cells and the charger terminations.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

sunworksco said:


> A 12volt 1980 MGB inertia switch could be used to power a normally closed high voltage relay for automatically disconnecting the battery pack. This could provide redundancy during an accident.
> I wrecked an MGB when a Ford Mustang hit head-on and the inertia switch worked perfectly.



any inertia switch (usually intended for cutting off the fuel punmp in a crash) will work. they should be mounted VERTICALLY with red reset button 'up'. they retail for $50ish, but are often on eBay for $15-20.


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

Bluetooth uses less power.


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## palmer_md (Jul 22, 2011)

palmer_md said:


> There is something not right about the battery cells on the right side and the way that the charger interfaces with them. Please review this section. To many jumpers and connections going various paths. Check all three cells and the charger terminations.



Actually the entire pack is not correct. You have a total of 3 volts between the most positive and the most negative in a "verticle" series. Then you have a negative voltage pack on top and a positive in the middle and a negative on the bottom (relative to the negative at the controller being zero volts).

I'm assuming you wanted to have three parallel packs, but that is not what you have drawn. If you did, you need to connect the three plusses on the left side together, have three strings down to the right side and then connect the three negatives together at that side. What you have drawn is nonsense, and I hope you don't try and hook it up like that.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

These cells have 7.5 Volts each from what I've read. And yes, I am trying to connect 3 of these 65 Ah rows in series. I was trying to avoid having multiple connections, but I may have been connected to the wrong terminal in the first version anyways. I also added a few fuses in the middle of the battery pack. I'm not sure if this is right or why they are needed. Getting to those once the pack is installed will not be easy...

But, that is why I had to put this together. It is much easier to move things around on a computer screen than deal with the mess of getting some wiring wrong. And after looking at it again, I moved quite a bit around and added the missing components. But, please say something if I missed something. Well, I still need to connect the gauges with their proper wiring, but that is also something I don't know for sure.

I added the inertia switch to where I think it goes. Will it get mounted someplace in the cabin or under the hood though?

Thanks


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## palmer_md (Jul 22, 2011)

pack wiring looks much better. is the shunt you show by the charger used for totalizing the pack Ah? It is shown where it will only measure what the charger puts into the pack and not what the controller and other items remove from the pack.


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

I'm thinking that it might be best to have the inertia disconnect relay next to the manual disconnect for redundancy.


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## sergiu tofanel (Jan 13, 2014)

Caps, let me know if you find a VNC interface via bluetooth. I have had no such luck.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Version 4:

I cleaned up the 12V wiring and fixed a few mistakes.

This is all I have found so far for the Raspberry Pi audio:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-your-Raspberry-Pi-into-a-Portable-Bluetooth-A/

As for VNC, I don't know. WiFi would be a messy back-up option that would work.

Here is what I have found so far:
http://www.netlife.co.za/archived-articles/39-bluetooth-and-gprs-on-linux-nokia.html



> pand: runs TCP/IP over Bluetooth (--listen for the server, --connect for the client).
> *
> 
> /etc/bluetooth/pan/dev-up: pand invokes this script when bringing up TCP/IP. This script can contain a command like ifconfig bnep0up to configure the Bluetooth interface with an IP address.


http://razzypi.blogspot.com/2013/03/ipad-remote-connection-using-rdp-to.html

And it would be nice to have a speedometer program using the GPS chip inside the iPad w/ cell. I've used it on a bike and a boat before to track my speed. I'm not sure about hooking up all the other gauges though.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

palmer_md said:


> Is the shunt you show by the charger used for totalizing the pack Ah? It is shown where it will only measure what the charger puts into the pack and not what the controller and other items remove from the pack.


That is a good question, and I don't have an answer of how it is wired up to produce the serial stream of data (Amps portion) into the CANbus or charger. 

I am missing the shunt for the JLD404 on the diagram to measure Amps used while driving. I need to figure out where it goes, and I am thinking it will go to the left of the main contactor.

Here are the wiring diagrams I had to go on.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

With the fuses in the middle of the battery, is 500A the right size? Are they slow-blow fuses? The controller can handle 650A, although I'm not sure how often I would ever get up to 500+Amps. 

I also don't know about the 3 packs in parallel getting to 500A over one fuse. Would it be divided by 1/3rd because the power could go over the other two 'packs' (16 batteries in the row)?


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Caps18 said:


> But, please say something if I missed something. Well, I still need to connect the gauges with their proper wiring, but that is also something I don't know for sure.
> 
> I added the inertia switch to where I think it goes. Will it get mounted someplace in the cabin or under the hood though?
> 
> Thanks


The inertia switch can be physically mounted anywhere in the car. I would place it right next to the main contactor and wire it such that when it opens it opens the main contactor. In other words it needs to go in series with the low voltage side of the main contactor wiring. The inertia switch only purpose is to stop the motor from running away should you have an accident. Where you have it now it has to carry all the 12v DC power and I am pretty sure it was not designed for that. Also you would still want to be able to operate the hazard flashers in the event of an accident and current placement has all your 12V disabled I believe.

The three 500 amp fuses in the middle of the pack can go away. They will do nothing for youin that placement. They might as well be bus bars. You already have a fuse between the pack and the motor controller and one between the battery and the charger. Both of those will protect the wiring to their respective devices.

I am sure there is more but that was what jumped out at me in the time I have to write this reply.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I have updated it with what I believe is where you said to place the inertia switch. It would disable to Main Contactor in it's current position I believe. You were right in suggesting that it was in a bad position previously.

I just found out that there was a big discussion over to have the DC-DC converter always on or after the ignition key. I will have to figure out that still, but I am leaning towards this.

And for a normal battery pack, the fuse in the middle probably would work to break half of the pack and try and save some cells if something goes wrong, but with the three of them wired in parallel, I agree that I don't think that they would do much. I also wonder how often that fuse is actually useful preventing a real situation.

I placed the wires to the gauges that I think are right. I haven't seen any diagrams or pictures of the wiring of those yet (or it has been months). Does the HV shunt work in this way?


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

Caps18 said:


> With the fuses in the middle of the battery, is 500A the right size? Are they slow-blow fuses? The controller can handle 650A, although I'm not sure how often I would ever get up to 500+Amps.
> 
> I also don't know about the 3 packs in parallel getting to 500A over one fuse. Would it be divided by 1/3rd because the power could go over the other two 'packs' (16 batteries in the row)?


I often see more than 500 amps with my AC 74 and 7601 controller. My pack is only 108 volts, so my amps will be a little higher, but I do see all 650 amps pretty often, even though it is only a metro. 6% grades at freeway speeds, 100 mph+ speeds on flat ground, taking off from red lights, spirited driving on country roads. Most freeway driving is around 150 amps. My pack fuse is a shawmut 300 volt 500 amp


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

I probably would have made groups of 3 cells in parallel and then wired the 16 groups into series, but there are a lot of things that I don't know... If you had 16 "585 ah" cells, your bms could be a little simpler. Why the 3 groups of 16?


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## palmer_md (Jul 22, 2011)

evmetro said:


> I probably would have made groups of 3 cells in parallel and then wired the 16 groups into series, but there are a lot of things that I don't know... If you had 16 "585 ah" cells, your bms could be a little simpler. Why the 3 groups of 16?


Parallel first then series is the preferred method. He's working with an existing pack that has 48 modules in series that has 3 blocks of 16 modules. Its pretty easy to just separate the three blocks and put them in parallel instead of series, but probably not the preferred way to parallel the cells. It could be done parallel first, but it would require a lot of reconnections of the individual modules, and they already have a very nice interconnection system on top of the blocks. It would be a shame to see that go to waste in order to parallel them first.


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Caps18 said:


> I just found out that there was a big discussion over to have the DC-DC converter always on or after the ignition key. I will have to figure out that still, but I am leaning towards this.


My preference is to have a buffer battery and only turn the DC-DC on when the car is running. You leave it on all the time if you don't have a buffer battery.

You may have an issue with the pack voltage and the 1238 controller. My understanding is that 36 LiFe cells is the typical max number. I have heard of 38 causing occasional issues (129.2 volts.) At full charge voltage 36 cells would be 122.4 volts (36 cells * 3.4 volts). Your pack is comprised of 16 cells each of which is 8.4 volts when fully charged giving a pack voltage of 134.4 volts. It seems like it might be on the edge of working which is why I mention it. I would talk to Brian Seymore about max acceptable voltage on that controller. I would hate for you to have an issue like this. If that turned out to be a problem a less desirable solution would be to drop back to 15 cells. Another solution would be the 1239 controller which tolerates a higher voltage but the downside is less current so less torque. And I could be all wrong about what is acceptable on the 1238 controller.

About your shunt and the JLD 404. The JLD will sense current flow in both directions so it will sort of keep track of your regen with it wired this way. What it wont do is keep track of the charge current so you will need to manually reset it after a charge. (I suspect you probably have to do this anyway as errors will accumulate in the coulomb counting.) To get it to count the charge current you will want to move the point where the charger connects to the battery to encompass the shunt. In my car I have the shunt directly connected to the negative of the battery and the charger negative is tied to the car side of the shunt so the shunt will see the charger current. Also your current placement of the shunt does not count the energy taken out of the pack by the DC-DC converter.


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

I know that I am known as the j plug troll, but have you considered adding any other inlets for more charging opportunities?


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

I really admire your schematic. What would I need to get to be able to make schematics like that? Right now all I have is paper out of my printer tray and a pen....


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Sorry, I have been away from my computer for the past few days.

I used Apple Keynote to make the schematic, but Powerpoint works too And is better in some line length instances...why does Keynote not let me make the wires the correct length sometimes?

I have a 120V AC Level 1 J1772 charger that I am borrowing for a few months right now. And all the places around town would be J1772 Level 2. I don't believe that will be an issue finding charging stations to plug into. I'm just surprised that the chargers don't come wired up like this already.


I am concerned about the high voltage as well. I was told 120V is no problem. 15 in a row wouldn't be a big deal if I had to do it that way.

I doubt I will be going higher than 70mph, so I should be fine on the amps side of things I hope.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

dougingraham said:


> My preference is to have a buffer battery and only turn the DC-DC on when the car is running. You leave it on all the time if you don't have a buffer battery.
> 
> You may have an issue with the pack voltage and the 1238 controller. My understanding is that 36 LiFe cells is the typical max number. I have heard of 38 causing occasional issues (129.2 volts.) At full charge voltage 36 cells would be 122.4 volts (36 cells * 3.4 volts). Your pack is comprised of 16 cells each of which is 8.4 volts when fully charged giving a pack voltage of 134.4 volts. It seems like it might be on the edge of working which is why I mention it. I would talk to Brian Seymore about max acceptable voltage on that controller. I would hate for you to have an issue like this. If that turned out to be a problem a less desirable solution would be to drop back to 15 cells. Another solution would be the 1239 controller which tolerates a higher voltage but the downside is less current so less torque. And I could be all wrong about what is acceptable on the 1238 controller.
> 
> About your shunt and the JLD 404. The JLD will sense current flow in both directions so it will sort of keep track of your regen with it wired this way. What it wont do is keep track of the charge current so you will need to manually reset it after a charge. (I suspect you probably have to do this anyway as errors will accumulate in the coulomb counting.) To get it to count the charge current you will want to move the point where the charger connects to the battery to encompass the shunt. In my car I have the shunt directly connected to the negative of the battery and the charger negative is tied to the car side of the shunt so the shunt will see the charger current. Also your current placement of the shunt does not count the energy taken out of the pack by the DC-DC converter.


I am re-working it to move the shunt around. But I am worried about how the charging will work, and if I should tie into the HV battery cables and have a SSR relay that would open to prevent the power from going to the main contactor. Then again, maybe there would be something in the controller that would prevent the motor from working when it is being charged, even if the throttle was pressed.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I have moved the charger cables around. Do I have to worry about the three packs evenly charging in this setup?


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Caps18 said:


> I have moved the charger cables around. Do I have to worry about the three packs evenly charging in this setup?


The packs will charge just fine. An optimum arrangement would be to parallel the cells in the strings but it will work fine without doing this.

In a previous note you were concerned about the possibility of turning on the motor while charging. There is a normally closed relay contact on the AVC2 which is the device used to enable the EVSE. You can loop the main contactor signal through this normally closed contact. If the J1772 is plugged in the main contactor won't close because the normally closed contacts will be open.

I was trying to figure out what the extra shunt to the right of the charger is for since you don't show it connected to anything. Also there should be a fuse in one of the high voltage lines running to the charger sized for the wire used there. It should be at the battery end of the wire. You should fuse every circuit that leaves a battery with a fuse sized for the current capacity of the wire or device, whichever is lower.


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## palmer_md (Jul 22, 2011)

Here is the same controller with the suggested wiring diagram.

http://hpevs.com/Site/images/jpeg/Schematics/513-up/1239/auto1239_513-up_revb.pdf


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## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

Your wiring diagram is better than mine so I will comment quietly...Wondering about using a single fuse for the power steering, vacuum brakes and DC-DC output? I also would think its good to put a fuse rating for your traction fuse, and maybe you need another fuse for your DC to DC input.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

palmer_md said:


> Here is the same controller with the suggested wiring diagram.
> 
> http://hpevs.com/Site/images/jpeg/Schematics/513-up/1239/auto1239_513-up_revb.pdf


Yes I had seen that and there is some good information there, but it doesn't cover everything, and is missing a lot of the details that people have helped me with here.



sabahtom said:


> Your wiring diagram is better than mine so I will comment quietly...Wondering about using a single fuse for the power steering, vacuum brakes and DC-DC output? I also would think its good to put a fuse rating for your traction fuse, and maybe you need another fuse for your DC to DC input.


That is a good question. Maybe using one fuse is definitely wrong. I will update it here.

The question is, can I figure out the existing wires to use the fuse box built into the truck, or will I need to start over and create a new one...

With this wiring diagram, I will hopefully be able to tell what wires I need and what wires can be removed.



dougingraham said:


> The packs will charge just fine. An optimum arrangement would be to parallel the cells in the strings but it will work fine without doing this.
> 
> In a previous note you were concerned about the possibility of turning on the motor while charging. There is a normally closed relay contact on the AVC2 which is the device used to enable the EVSE. You can loop the main contactor signal through this normally closed contact. If the J1772 is plugged in the main contactor won't close because the normally closed contacts will be open.
> 
> I was trying to figure out what the extra shunt to the right of the charger is for since you don't show it connected to anything. Also there should be a fuse in one of the high voltage lines running to the charger sized for the wire used there. It should be at the battery end of the wire. You should fuse every circuit that leaves a battery with a fuse sized for the current capacity of the wire or device, whichever is lower.


Thank you for pointing out the AVC2 relay. That makes a lot of sense and is correct.

I was wondering about that shunt too. The charger manual has it in there, but doesn't say where it goes to. Maybe it goes to the CANbus controller so it can read how much current is going into the battery when charging...

But, I believe the fuse on the red + HV wire coming off the left side of the battery is there already and in the right location. It would be used if it is charging or in operation. Is it not correct?


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

sabahtom said:


> Your wiring diagram is better than mine so I will comment quietly...Wondering about using a single fuse for the power steering, vacuum brakes and DC-DC output? I also would think its good to put a fuse rating for your traction fuse, and maybe you need another fuse for your DC to DC input.


The primary point of the fuse is to protect the wiring from a short. A lot of people think the fuse is there to protect the device at the other end of the wire. That is not really the case. Can you protect the wire going to multiple devices with a single fuse? Yes, but you need to be careful in calculating the wire and fuse sizes and sometimes one size does not fit all. Look at it this way. The DC-DC converter will only draw a few amps at most from the traction pack and its input will track its output. The power steering pump could have large transients. The vacuum pump could have large starting currents but then tapers off as the vacuum increases. You need to wire to handle average currents and fuse for the peaks. And are you ok with losing all three systems at the same time when driving down the road?


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

It isn't looking quite as neat as it once did. I would have to move around a lot of stuff to make the wires look good.

But, I hope that it is getting closer to what is correct.

(I added the individual fuses, and the existing lights, wipers and such already have fuses that aren't shown on the diagram.) I forgot to move the fuse from next to the key ignition to the key relay. I don't want to lose everything if one fuse blows.


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Caps18 said:


> I was wondering about that shunt too. The charger manual has it in there, but doesn't say where it goes to. Maybe it goes to the CANbus controller so it can read how much current is going into the battery when charging...
> 
> But, I believe the fuse on the red + HV wire coming off the left side of the battery is there already and in the right location. It would be used if it is charging or in operation. Is it not correct?


If that shunt next to the charger connects to the charger then you need it but run the shunt sense wires back into the charger. My guess is that the charger knows what the current is.

The large fuse on the HV+ line leaving the battery would be fine if you run the same size cable to the charger as you run to the motor controller. If that is a 500 amp fuse and you run 6 gauge wire to the charger then it is like no fuse at all on the wires between the charger and the traction battery because it will never open in the event of a short between those devices or if the output stage of the charger fails shorted. The charger fuse should be set just above the maximum charging current. The motor controller fuse should be selected for the draw of the motor. Very different currents and probably different cables sizes. A battery pack needs a fuse for every circuit that leaves it. Since we often use a common negative we tend to not fuse the common so you should have N-1 fuses on a battery pack where N is the number of wires connected to the pack.

In my car I have two battery packs in series so I have two huge fuses to protect the 2/0 cable leaving the batteries. One fuse is inside each pack. This protects the wiring between the packs and the wiring to the high voltage terminal strips. I don't have a separate fuse to the motor controller, it is protected by the battery fuses. I have a separate fuse for the Charger, DC-DC converter and to the heater sized appropriately for each device connected to the HV terminal strip. You can fuse these on either side but by convention we normally have a common negative and fuse the positive side.

Hope that is clear.


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## sabahtom (Mar 1, 2011)

Thanks Doug. I had a question earlier today regarding this so I copied your post over to the other thread.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/can-charger-and-dc-dc-share-94488.html


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

Dougingraham, that was a really good catch on the JLD shunt. I actually got halfway done wiring one of my rigs before I caught the fact that my charger was not in the loop, and my DC DC was already wired in outside the shunt. I really like where my shunt was located, so I wired all my HV grounds to that location, but I made a note to self to just put the shunt on the HV negative terminal right on the pack on my next build. Another circuit that I added to the JLD was a circuit to turn on the JLD with the charge enable so that I can see the current flow while it is charging, even though the JLD shuts down with the ignition key.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

So, I have been working on this over the past 2 months. I probably should have posted some updates in that time, but it has been busy around here. I have purchased a lot of the parts, so I have a better sense of what connectors and wires they have. I will be buying the DC-DC converter this weekend. And I have decided to not use the power steering system and instead switch to a manual one. The power requirements and cost to keep the power steering weren't worth it in the end. (I haven't removed it yet however)

I am looking into adding a push to start system, so that would mean adding auto door locks. It would make the car a little more modern, but would be done after it is all working. There are quite a few things listed on the wiring diagram now that don't need to be done right away.

The other big issue I just found out about is that the blue and orange wires going to the main contactor are 48V, not 12V. I will need to make sure the AVC2 and inertia switch can handle 48V or figure out someplace else to put them.

And I forgot to label the charger in the bottom right...


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Why are you connecting the avc2 to the contactor? Nothing else should be on that circuit..... It's for Contactor only and nothing should be allowed to interrupt it. If you need to stop the controller, use the interlock input on the controller.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

It was a suggestion in post #22.

I read some of the controller manual yesterday, and I was wondering about that interlock wire and what it was used for. 

The specs on the 12V disconnect are 240V (DC? AC?) and 10A, so that will probably need to be moved too.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Thats what you'd do if you had a controller that didn't control the contactor. 

For the Curtis AC drives which control their own contactor, use the interlock to stop the controller. Ask HPEVS if you're unsure I'm right or not, but this is how they've advised people to disable the controller. 

The interlock will disable the drive. I would wire the inertial switch and the avc2 disable in series to the interlock. If any are active, you cannot drive. That's the whole idea an interlock.


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

If the controller loses its mind the interlock input might not do anything. Opening the contactor will stop the motor from running if all else fails. It all depends on how paranoid you are.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

It's HPEVS and Curtis themselves that say to do it this way. I mean, feel free to call them both up and see what their recommendations are if you don't believe me. I've gone through this with them before, and they say use interlock to disable the controller, don't put anything else in the contactor circuit and don't kill the ksi under load.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I'm not sure how paranoid I should be... My co-workers might be more paranoid of me building something this complicated . But everything works great eventually. I just have blown up some parts in the past. I am trying not to do that this time, and I appreciate all of the help.

Should the 12V disconnect go on the same green interlock wire? It wouldn't see the amps that it is being exposed to where it is now (which it can't handle).

Did I wire up the Key Switch Input replay correctly? It just seems odd that there is a lot of voltage on that wire. What voltage limit should the fuse have? And why wouldn't Curtis or HPEVS send one with the controller...? I just dealt with a company at work not sending a .02 cent resistor that took me 30 minutes to buy this week and two days waiting on it... it is annoying.

The other annoying part is that I received a coolant pump, but with no wire connector and no pin assignments. Same with my electronic throttle. 
Luckily I have a connector from my old air intake that fits, and I was able to find the pin assignments on-line. But, this needs to be supplied with the part when you buy it.
http://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...at-exchangers-circulation-pumps-connector.png


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Since I was using the wrong color wire for the main contactor, and now have to connect the coil return to the brake light relay when regen is active, I have updated the wiring diagram to version 15.


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## davidmillin (Dec 14, 2013)

Hi Caps

What is the 50 microhenry inductor on the DC DC converter input for?


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Here is what EVTV says the inductor is for: "Inductor filters voltage spikes from the motor controller from entering DC-DC converter"


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Here is the latest version for my wiring diagram. I am finally on the wiring part of my conversion project.  I have also updates that switched 12V wiring to the industry standard yellow. Although I'm not sure if everything is 100% correct yet. There is a fuse panel and other switches that I'm looking into.

The gauge cluster might be changing now that AI-Display's has a GPS speedometer and battery/controller gauge now.


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## Matteo80 (5 mo ago)

I need help on my project, please. I would be very grateful to you. mail: matteo _ lcn at yahoo . it


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Post a new build thread on this forum if you need help. Help is for many, not for one.


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## kennybobby (Aug 10, 2012)

i looked at your diagram @Caps, and have some questions/suggestions.

Do you need to have a precharge resistor circuit between the pack and the motor controller? Almost all EVs do.

Is the Main contactor wired correctly--wouldn't the A1+ terminal go the the high side, i.e. the Pack + and the A2- goes to the motor controller?

The 12VDC output of the DC-DC Converter (Yellow wire)--i think a single large gage wire should go directly to the 12V battery + terminal; then any/all the 12V loads should come off the + terminal thru Red wires to fuses, relays, etc. Don't try to supply any loads directly from the DC converter, it's purpose is to charge the 12V battery.

The HV + input for the DC Converter should be taken after the pre-charge and Main contactor circuits; as shown the DC converter is always Hot with HV. Some cars use a Main Contactor on the Negative side also, in order to totally isolate the pack when the car is Off.

Whoa, it looks like you don't have a BMS unit, and it looks like you are trying to parallel four 115V batteries? More research is needed here before wiring this up.

It is not clear how the charger is connected to the Pack. 

i don't see a gear shift selector, how to you change to Forward or Reverse or Neutral or Park?

The key relay appears to have HV input that is switched to send HV to the controller (Blue wire), so that connector has mixed voltage level signals, HV and LV and control inputs. That will require careful routing and insulation to ensure isolation.

i would recommend that you create some additional diagrams, likes a separate page just for the HV circuits and devices, then another page for the LV circuits and devices, then a third page for the interface circuits, wiring harnesses and connectors, etc which have involve both the High and Low Voltages.


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