# Curtis 1204-020 160A controller help!



## I-Jess (Jun 27, 2014)

Hi guys I need a lot of help! This is the first time I'm doing an electric vehicle and I need wiring help.
I have a 36v 1.4kw series wound motor and I haven't had any luck yet with wiring. 







I am using this wiring diagram







I have connected the 5k ohms pot box ( I checked it is working using a multimeter)
I have connected a 150A fuse and a 36v contactor from the positive end of the batteries to B+ and the negative end of the three 12v batteries to B-,
I connected the two remaining terminals on the motor one to b+ and one to m-
I did not connect the A2 terminal on the motor to anything as I read in the manual that that is done only for plug breaking and I don't want that. 
Can you please tell me how I should wire this as I think I'm doing something wrong. I'm guessing there is a problem with the control box
I really need your expert opinions guys! Thanks


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

The A2 terminal must be hooked up to something in order for there to be armature current. In a typical series DC config one of the A's connects to one of the S's and the other A and S connect to the motor controller. In a motor requiring separate excitation of the field the A's both connect to the appropriate terminals on the motor controller and the S's both connect to the appropriate terminals on the motor controller. The kind of controller needed is determined by the kind of motor.

Good luck!

I don't know about that particular Curtis controller but I would hook it up like the diagram.


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## nimblemotors (Oct 1, 2010)

Just to say the samething as doug in a different way,
A2 isn't connected to the CONTROLLER if you don't need plug braking,
but A2 on the MOTOR must be connected to one of the two S terminals on the motor, which one determines what direction the motor will spin.

A serial DC motor is called that because the current flows through armature (A terminals) and then through the field (S terminals).
Is that motor a serial DC motor?

Note also the controller is turned on/off with the top spade connector, which can just be connected to the +36v (B+) as shown in the diagram.


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## I-Jess (Jun 27, 2014)

Thanks guys, this is a series wound motor. I have taken out the contractors and this picture shows how I am wiring it up.






























the pot box is working. Is there anything wrong with my wiring? Can you please tell me what I have done wrong. I know I need to secure the motor In place I will do that when i can wire it properly.
Thanks for your help guys.


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## nimblemotors (Oct 1, 2010)

Note also the controller is turned on/off with the top spade connector, which can just be connected to the +36v (B+) as shown in the diagram.

I only see the pot box connections on the lower two spade terminals.
If the top connection is not connected to +36v, controller stays turned off.


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## alvin (Jul 26, 2008)

You should not try this motor at 36 volts without a load on it.


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## I-Jess (Jun 27, 2014)

Ok thanks guys I didn't notice that and I am using 24v now. I connected the top spade connection to the B+ but still no luck. I was just wondering Is there any safe way of taking off the cover of the controller? I'm guessing no as it's very securely sealed.what other problems can you see in my wiring guys? Thanks for the help


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

You can verify the motor turns by disconnecting the cables from the controller and connecting them directly to a 12 volt at most battery. Anything more than that and it is possible to over rev the motor. At the very least you will know that the motor will run.


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## I-Jess (Jun 27, 2014)

Yeah I did and the motor is working great


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## nimblemotors (Oct 1, 2010)

The controller has a "high pot test" and will wait until the throttle is 'off'
until it will start to work. So check your pot and make sure you power up
with it 'off', have to check the manual what that is exactly.

Or the controller can just be shot, they are not made to come apart, they are sealed up with epoxy.


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## I-Jess (Jun 27, 2014)

Thanks nimble motors!!! I'm bench testing it with led lights. The pot box is doing something weird where the resistance doesn't gradually rise just shoots up suddenly at a certain point leaving me like a mm gap as I turn it where the voltage given to the light shoots up from 0 to 25v.


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## I-Jess (Jun 27, 2014)

Oh no worries I found out why, the potiometer is fried. My brother ran it in series with the light...







Thanks for all the help guys, best forum by far


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## yatravis (Oct 5, 2020)

I-Jess said:


> Hi guys I need a lot of help! This is the first time I'm doing an electric vehicle and I need wiring help.
> I have a 36v 1.4kw series wound motor and I haven't had any luck yet with wiring.
> View attachment 21746
> 
> ...


I’m trying to do this exact same thing right now. In the wiring diagram image it shows a KSI relay. What is that?


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## morvolts (Jun 19, 2008)

key switch power on to tell the controller to power up.

my question is does the KSI need to be pack voltage or can it be 12v?


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