# 1992 Toyota Celica Conversion



## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

Here is where I'm at with the car. 

1. I've removed all of the ICE components. 
2. I've degreased and pressure washed the entire exterior and engine bay. 
3. I've removed all of the interior components to shampoo and clean. 
4. The previous owner had a fender bender that damaged the bumper. I've got everything back together properly. 
5. Other misc improvements. (Removed peeling tint, replaced shifter boot, etc). 

Here are a few pictures of the cars current state. 

Pulling the engine.









Engine Bay Before.









Transmission Before.









Engine Bay After.









Transmission After.









*What's Next*
The next thing I need to do is tackle the wiring harness, metering and removing all of the components I don't need anymore and getting it out of the way. 

In the mean time I need to start buying EV parts, specifically a motor and controller to start. I don't want to go out and spend thousands on a Warp9 or 4001A if I can get by with something used from a forklift. 

I've contacted all of my local forklift shops and come up empty. I have one more lead to follow on monday. 

Is anybody selling an old motor, or know of any eBay listings that look promising? I can spend the time cleaning, rebuilding and advancing brushes if needed. 

I was also thinking about buying a D&D motor in the 750-1000 dollar range and just calling it a day. It's just hard to pass up the idea of a free motor if I can find the right forklift and scrap the metal. 

-Mike


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## EVEngineeer (Apr 11, 2012)

I do not really have any input for you as of now, but you should post your car in the http://www.diyelectriccar.com/garage/ It may help people get a visual when you post pictures of the car. They may notice things that you didn't just with pictures. 

BTW Great Car Purchase I wish I could find a car for that price or less in such good condition.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Budget looks tight, but may be doable with your resources. Definitely 2nd the open revolt to let you do a 96 if you want and bump up later. There are DIY chargers out there also that would help out.

I think the forklift motor's required to stay in your budget, so keep lookin!


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

Time for a little update:

Work has been slow but steady on the car. I've finally got the wiring harness all figured out. I've got headlights, blinkers, tail/brake lights, dash, radio, and wipers all working on 12V power like they should with all of the excess harness removed. 

The car is officially ready for electronic parts.

So far I've ordered:

*Open ReVolt Controller $635
*
*Volvo UP-28 12V Vacuum Pump $60*

I think I've found a lead on a motor, just waiting for a callback tomorrow morning. 

With the UP-28 I've read that it can go without a reservoir, and that you can even bypass a pressure switch by wiring directly to the brake relay. But, I'd rather set it up properly with a pressure switch. So, I'll be ordering one of those tonight. 

I'm also looking for a Pot Box for the throttle. kta-ev has the pb-5 for $73 and the pb-6 for $86. What's the difference between the two?

Also, is there any issue using a 5k pot box from something like an ez-go golf cart? Those can be found on eBay in the $50 dollar range. 

Next step is finding the motor so I can begin work on the coupler/adapter. 

-Mike


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## ricklearned (Mar 3, 2012)

mmoyer2655 said:


> Time for a little update:
> 
> .........
> I'm also looking for a Pot Box for the throttle. kta-ev has the pb-5 for $73 and the pb-6 for $86. What's the difference between the two?
> ...


The PB5 has no microswitch. I am going to use one for a regen brake control.


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

ricklearned said:


> The PB5 has no microswitch. I am going to use one for a regen brake control.


What does the microswitch do? Is there any benefit in having them?

-Mike


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

Add a Curtis PB6 and vaccuum switch from KTA to my ordered parts.


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## ricklearned (Mar 3, 2012)

mmoyer2655 said:


> What does the microswitch do? Is there any benefit in having them?
> 
> -Mike


I think it depends on your controller. My 1238R prevents the motor from turning if the pedal is depressed prior to the contactor closing. It is a safety feature.


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

*Huge Development*

I got extremely lucky today and found a guy on craigslist selling off some EV parts locally. He was an awesome guy that helped me plan my build and then gave me an unbelievable price on a motor, controller, and contactor. 

Here's what I got:

_D&D ES-31B 72/144V Motor
__*Soliton Jr.* Motor Controller w/ POT_
_Albright SW-200 Contactor 
_
all for the the price of....drum roll

*$1800.00*

Even though it completely blows my budget out of the water, I think it is well worth it. 

I've emailed Paul to see if it's too late to cancel my ReVolt order, and I can even return my PB-6 saving 85 bucks. 

He also hooked me up with a machine shop locally that can build a coupler for cheap. 

I'm super excited to get to work. I now have almost everything I need. Just missing wire, gauges, dc-dc, and a charger. 

-Mike


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## skooler (Mar 26, 2011)

Bargain!

watching with interest


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

Quick question:

I'm trying to figure out if I need, and how to use relays in my car. I've seen people use them to power on the vacuum pump, controller, and contactor. 

My question is why I need them? Why can't I just wire each device directly to my 12v ignition source (switch)?

And if I need them, which type do I get (if anyone has a link that would be great). Do they need to be 12v to 12v relays? 144v to 12v relays?

Thanks for the help!

-Mike


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## Jesse67 (May 12, 2009)

If the amp load isn't too high you can certainly wire and switch any 12V accessories directly but it depends on the item.

For a vacuum pump you probably want the vacuum switch which cycles the pump on and off to go through a relay and not switch the pump on directly as the vacuum switch likely can't take that kind of load. A standard 12V 40A automotive relay can be found at most parts stores for ~$5 or so and will work great for any 12 accessories. 

If you want your car to start like a normal car, as in you have to turn the key to start to get it to turn on as opposed to it starting when you just turn the key to run then you need a standard 12V relay that is powered by the start 12V signal to latch on. Once the relay gets 12V from the start circuit the switched side provides power to the coil which keeps it latched and on until the key turns to off. This relay will provide 12V power to your contactor and controller if it needs it. You should be able to get a wiring diagram for the soliton which will help you out a lot. 

What you need depends on your controller and your preferences. Doesn't the soliton have a built in contactor? Were manual brakes an option on a 92 celica? Then you wouldn't need a vacuum pump. If you just want the car to start when the key turns to run and not worry about the start circuit then you don't need that either. Check out the wiring diagram for the soliton.

Good luck!


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## Jesse67 (May 12, 2009)

Read this cover to cover, explains a lot!

http://www.evnetics.com/downloads/Soliton_Manual_1v4_rev2.pdf

Looks like you just need to provide a 12V signal direct from the key switch to turn this controller on as it has a built in contactor, that makes it really easy!

Jesse


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## skooler (Mar 26, 2011)

I'd recommend installing a new relay that comes on with ignition stage 2 (between acc and start). Anything that you add to the car can then be powered through this relay. The problem with using existing relays is that you do not know how close to the limits they already are.

You can often find something to tap into in the existing fusebox to control the coil on the new relay.

Made my 12 volt systems much simpler.

FWIW. I installed 3 new relays, one for ignition live components such as the controller another for the vacuum switch and another for the motor cooling.

I have a diagram on my home PC, will post it up later on.

Cheers,

Mike


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

Thanks for the info on the relays. Never thought of amp load or the option of using the "start" turn of the key. 

In other news a made another purchase today.

*Batteries!*

I found a guy on craigslist selling is solar power system. He had 26 Trojan T-105's for sale for $65 a piece. I offered $1200 for all of them and he took it. 

They are 2 years old, and were just tested in late June to be 100% operational. (One was bad, but replaced under warranty.)

So, now I've got to figure out how to fit 24 t105s in the Celica. Initial measurements seem very tight. Max in the trunk looks about 17, leaving 7 to place elsewhere on the car.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

There's always the passenger seat! 

24 batts is a lot to stuff in a car.


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> There's always the passenger seat!
> 
> 24 batts is a lot to stuff in a car.



Yea, I'm thinking worst case scenario, I'll fold down the back seat. But I think I should be able to find room in the hood and possibly build a box where the gas tank used to be. 

I also have the option of going to a 120V system and losing 4 batteries.


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## Jesse67 (May 12, 2009)

You may be able to find space for them but I think with a celica the problem will be weight. What is the GVWR of your car? 62lbs each for a T105 x 24 is 1488lbs! Also, you can take up the back seat with batteries but they should be in a sealed box to avoid any issues with gas venting in the cab and spilled acid in case of a rollover. They also need a sturdy frame and clamping system to keep them in place. If you have to take up the back seat I would take the seat right out and try to keep your batteries as low as possible in the car. 

It can be done, but try to stay below your GVWR and make sure those batteries are secure if you have any in the cab space. If you have access to a scale where you can weight your car and then weigh all the ICE stuff you strip out of it you'll know how much extra GVWR room you have for batteries, motor, etc. 

Here's some inspiration although you may have seen these already,

http://www.evalbum.com/613
http://www.evalbum.com/3974/
http://www.evalbum.com/4093
http://www.evalbum.com/2400

Looks like a popular conversion! Most seem to have 8V or 12V batteries though.

Good luck!


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

Yea, I'm going to figure out the battery placement Friday. Then I can order my charger. 

I emailed those guys on EvAlbum and got two responses. Hopefully I can get some pictures and ideas from them.


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

*Updates:
*


I worked on my adapter plate this weekend. I had a custom coupler made from a machine shop that turned out amazing. Only charged me $100. 

Unfortunately, he wanted $900 for the adapter plate. Seeing how he would sell me that materials for $30, I opted to spend a morning wrestling with a jigsaw and grinder. The finished product isn't perfect, but should work nicely. 



















I also discovered that I'm able to fit 16 batteries nicely in the trunk of the car, which leaves 8 hopefully in the hood. 










Unfortunately, my new #1 priority is an upgraded suspension.










I think I'm still pretty close to being "ok" GVWR-wise. Curb weight is 2800lbs, GVWR is 3800lbs stock. Minus a 500lb motor, plus 1500lb battery bank and I'm there. I guess I won't be taking too many passengers. 

The plan is to go find some springs from a small pickup at the junkyard, and upgrade the shocks to a racing brand. We'll see how it goes. 

I'll be working tomorrow on mounting the motor to the adapter plate. Hopefully I'll get to see the drive shaft spin before sundown...

-Mike


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Wow, you are moving fast.

120V should be enough. That would only require 4 under the hood.


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## Jesse67 (May 12, 2009)

Good progress, but you're going to be way over on your GVWV, a chevy small block weighs ~500lbs, your 4 cyl will be around 300lbs or less, plus you're adding in a ~100 lbs+ DC motor, your controller, charger, battery brackets, adapter plate, cabling, etc etc. 

A car is made to have most of it's weight carried in the middle between the axles, 16 batteries in the trunk puts a good deal of that behind the rear axle! Even if you can get springs to make it ride level you'll be breaking shock mounts and suspension components and are you confident your brakes are up to the task? A truck can generally handle a bit of overloading beyond the GVWR but a Celica should not be loaded that much! 

I would recommend going with 120V max and fitting as many of the batteries as you can under the hood and the rest in the trunk, this will help to maintain your weight distribution. A celica is supposed to be a fun sporty car, 16 lead batteries in the trunk will kill it! 

I really hope you can make this work because it'll definitely be worth it but 1500 lbs of lead is not the answer in a celica.... Good luck!


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

@Jesse 
Yea, it's definitely a lot, but I think I'm gonna go for it since all of my parts have been purchased for 144v. I definitely know my limits, so if it's not working right, I'll dial it back. 

*Updates:*

Made some progress today, including the suspension. But, most exciting is I got the motor mounted and the wheels spinning. 

http://youtu.be/ziZIKKgrU_o

I also spent the afternoon at the junkyard searching for heavy duty springs to handle the extra weight of the batteries. It took a little while but I found that the rear springs from a 2002 Ford Explorer match perfectly to my existing rear struts. 

For $32.00, problem hopefully solved. And no modifications are needed.


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## bcbeaver (Jul 7, 2014)

Is that it?

Does any know how it turned out?


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