# 36v Hillman



## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Hi,

I'm not sure the controller will be very suitable but if you are on a budget I guess you need to make do.

You would have more luck is you posted all the infomation on the controller, the truck you got it from and plenty of photos of everything in a thread in the controllers forum.

Having the photos in the thread will help people to help you as they may recognise it or how it works.

Good luck.
PS: A photo of the car would be nice.


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

hi; thanks for your reply. No idea what type of forklift; serial no's on heatsink? #1 type 801 3A ser no JC136.
heatsink? #2 type 622/1B ser no BD194
controller ? type 7051-3 ser no S70 8036. All British Patents. I will try to attach photos. Cars are not mine, but the brown one is the color and the black one is an English one the same as mine thanks


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Ahhh, my Father used to have one of those when I was a kid.

Did you make up all the adaptor and coupling yourself? If so, how did you make sure it was true and aligned?

I'm not certain but does your controller have big contactors and big resistances? Just wondering if it was switching in steps through a resistor bank or tapping off 12,14,36 volts straight off the batteries.

Either way that would make the car lerch forward with each step of accelleration. The pedal would be like a switch , off, slow, fast, faster in set increments. That would not be good as it would be very difficult to control.
Old milk floats used to be controlled like that but they were about 4 tons in weight and only did 20mph tops.

I think it would be worth looking out for an electronic controller.
Where are you?
I know of a chap in the UK who may still have a 36v Curtis 1214 controller for sale.


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

Thank you; The shaft was aligned the aussie bushman's way; one eye closed and hope for the best.The motor is mounted by bracket to the original 1725cc mounts. The generator/alternator setup is optimistic but the generator is hooked up through the original voltage regulator to an auxiliary battery and with lights on it does flare the headlights when moving. The geny warning light does not quite go out . As you can see I have ideas but lack the expertise to carry them out. Interestingly, my temporary setup is through the throttle box with an extra micro switch to activate the contacts, with neg closing on first increment, then one of the centre ones. The other centre contact is reverse direction, so it would appear to be the type you have described.Connecting 12 +12+12 in steps was a thought but would'nt it overload the first battery? Using 3 old lead acid batteries top speed is 20km and 250metres range. Still more research needed. As to the Curtis, once again, we have a saying in Oz, "champagne taste , beer budget . " What would it be worth? Thank you for your help.


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## TheConverted (Jun 20, 2009)

Mate, interesting project, looks more like a home brew budget...

Mate, scrap the old mechanical controller (they are not worth the time and effort) and get yourself a budget electronic controller. Check out Curtis and Alltrax controllers, they are relatively affordable up to 72v ratings.

Add *another* three 12v batteries and that Hillman will do some decent speed along your dirt tracks.

You can follow my build here, http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=1815

Where abouts in Australia are you? Im in Brisbane.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

I use the same 'bushman's technique myself sometimes. You can see on my Tractor project in my sig how I made up my motor shaft and chain drive.

Yep, scrap that controller and just use it for any useful parts it may have, contactors etc.
That type of controller isn't good for the batteries either as most of the load is handled by the first battery, a bit less by the second and least by the third. It means that the batteries are never balanced and the first one will always have deeper cycles then the other two.

I think the shipping for the Curtis would be prohibative even if it was free, I can find out for you but as TheConverted says you may be better off with a higher voltage controller, it will bring your current down and improve things all round.

As for money saving, there is a chap here, Simon Rafferty, who negotiated with a local scrap yard for his batteries. He is using Optima Red Tops. He buys them at £3, when he has tested they are still good, and sells them back at £2 when he has used them to death. £1 per battery net is a good cost in any book.


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## rmay635703 (Oct 23, 2008)

Woodsmith said:


> Yep, scrap that controller and just use it for any useful parts it may have, contactors etc.
> That type of controller isn't good for the batteries either as most of the load is handled by the first battery, a bit less by the second and least by the third. It means that the batteries are never balanced and the first one will always have deeper cycles then the other two.
> 
> I think the shipping for the Curtis would be prohibative even if it was free, I can find out for you but as TheConverted says you may be better off with a higher voltage controller, it will bring your current down and improve things all round.


Personally if the controller WORKs and you can determine how to control it (likely need the original speed selector) I would keep it and use it to test your vehicle. If you find the vehicle works as you want (except maybe uncontrolled acceleration) then take the next step.

I think it very foolish when on a budget to blow cash on an electronic controller until everything else is figured out.

Also because you are running 36v you will likely find the performance of your antique controller much better than a modern equivalent anyway.

My C-car ran half its life on contactor only, well enough I say. It could burn rubber after the D$D upgrade on contactors, though likely not a good idea.


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

TheConverted said:


> Mate, interesting project, looks more like a home brew budget...
> 
> Mate, scrap the old mechanical controller (they are not worth the time and effort) and get yourself a budget electronic controller. Check out Curtis and Alltrax controllers, they are relatively affordable up to 72v ratings.
> 
> ...


At huntervalley but visiting currumbin til fri working at piggabeen rd kingdom hall.


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

Hi I know this has been discussed before , so please answer or could you direct me to a previous answer. Connecting a DC Series motor direct drive; if it is allowed to coast will it short out? I can remember a similar question approx 6 months ago but did not read it. Can you help?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

poprock1 said:


> Hi I know this has been discussed before , so please answer or could you direct me to a previous answer. Connecting a DC Series motor direct drive; if it is allowed to coast will it short out? I can remember a similar question approx 6 months ago but did not read it. Can you help?


Hi pop,

I never remember this question. But no. It will not short out. Coasting is just fine with a series DC motor. Both when you remove the voltage from the motor, as in taking you foot off the accelerator, or if you go downhill faster than your normal speed. Just be careful of going too fast and overspeeding the motor.

Regards,

major


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

major said:


> Hi pop,
> 
> Thank you Major; I have submitted a recommendation for your promotion to half colonel. Seriously, that is good to hear. I developed my 36v hillman as far as I could with this motor and my new test bed is an 89 Subaru L 4wd wagon . It will be an illegitamised hybrid; I have disconnected the rear drive shaft and hooked the motor directly to the rear diff using rubber mounts to the rear floor pan and a short tailshaft connecting. The grand plan is to start off using front wheel drive to a speed where the electric motor can power comfortably and leave the ICE motor idling to supply ancillaries. A charging system is yet to be thought of. The Hillman ended up with no controller but three contactors; 24v, 36v, 48v. On the 48v setting the pot box was simply three micro switches supplying power to the 36v solenoid of each contactor with all nine batteries providing power at full opening. With junk lead batteries it reached 30 kmh and 4.2 ks travel. I have basic knowledge of electrics but good mechanical knowledge. Ben Nelson said that his forkenswift ? was at one stage direct drive and would pull away from standstill but veeeeeery slowly. The reason for this arrangement is that I will use this to travel from Cessnock nsw to Tamworth ( 265 kms) and this seemed simpler than a pusher trailer. Also it can very easily be returned to 4wd for onsale . Thank you.


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

*Re: 36v top rpm*

Hi; still fiddling with this old St Marys Cray 9" Electro dynamic motor. Part no is 4165-0106 serial no is 25c4144. Took it out of the Hillman, fitted it to an L series Subaru wagon (3.7:1 diff) both in series mounted to the diff as a hybrid and in place of the ICE as an EV. Now it is in my 88 Dyna 150 as a hybrid mounted on the rear of the gearbox handbrake drum with a shortened tailshaft. 4.11 diff? Because of third world finances I have used the original contactors as per attached wiring diagram found on a post here. The issue is that no matter what steps in the contactors or top volts( have tried 42, 60,72, the top speed has been 40kmh=25mph in each vehicle. At the present i am using 8x 6v Century 105 + 2x 12v in parallel=60v. After charging it will take off on a flat surface at 24v then to 48v then 60v and reach the 40k, but is very weak on the slightest slope. What is the rpm at which this motor runs normally?


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