# Series motor control



## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

I have a series motor with an A1 and A2 terminal for the armature, and S1 and S2 for the field. Is it possible to connect A2 to S1, and control it with a PM controller powering A1 and grounding S2 without melt down or other adverse effects?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Dink said:


> I have a series motor with an A1 and A2 terminal for the armature, and S1 and S2 for the field. Is it possible to connect A2 to S1, and control it with a PM controller powering A1 and grounding S2 without melt down or other adverse effects?


Yes, that is how it should be wired. "Grounding" is a bad term for EV motors. The controller needs a connection to both motor terminals, in this case A1 and S2. 

But proper motor wiring does not insure against melt down or other adverse effects


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

Major,

Sorry,I was meaning A1 to positive and S2 to negative on the controller output. Just stated it wrong. (auto mechanic habit) Thanks again.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

yes, but you need to connect A2 to S1 as well.

Thats how series wound are connected anyway.

Look at a manual for your controller. It should show how to connect a series wound.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

frodus said:


> yes, but you need to connect A2 to S1 as well.
> 
> Thats how series wound are connected anyway.
> 
> Look at a manual for your controller. It should show how to connect a series wound.


 
Allready had the A2 to S1 part covered and its a PM not Series controller so the manual is of no help. But thank you for the help.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

what controller?


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

frodus said:


> what controller?


 
Its a Yi Yun YK42-4.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

uh, hold on.

What kind of motor are you wanting to run with that controller? I mean, what size is it? voltage? current?

Seems like an awefully small controller to be running a series wound motor.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

frodus said:


> uh, hold on.
> 
> What kind of motor are you wanting to run with that controller? I mean, what size is it? voltage? current?
> 
> Seems like an awefully small controller to be running a series wound motor.


 
Its a series wound GE, the plate says 36v, 50amps, @ 2800rpm.

I agree its awfull small, and over volting, but I got it used for $10.00 with the throttle. Was thinking of using it to get the trike rolling to work out any steering,braking, or misc. bugs.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

If that's on the nameplate, that's 50A continuous. Does the controller limit current? 

the motor will draw much more than 50A when starting, so I hope the controller limits current, or it'l overload .


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

frodus said:


> If that's on the nameplate, that's 50A continuous. Does the controller limit current?
> 
> the motor will draw much more than 50A when starting, so I hope the controller limits current, or it'l overload .


The controller is rated 40-100 amps, doesn't mention current limiting. So I'm assuming 40 cont and 100 peak short term,( 10-30 sec.) and has under voltage protection at 42v. (I'm assuming for the batts.) I've wasted alot more than $10.00 on things that were lesser thoughts/ideas. So what do you think, will I be sending 10 bucks to the Blue smoke Gods trying this set up?


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

nah, just don't gun it the first time you hook it up. Hook a clam meter on it and measure the current ..... if it keeps going up, stop.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

frodus said:


> nah, just don't gun it the first time you hook it up. Hook a clam meter on it and measure the current ..... if it keeps going up, stop.


Sounds good. I don't have a clam meter. Would tapeing a inductive ammeter I have from mechanicing for testing alternators work? It's good to 100amps? If everything goes well, I'm thinking Kelly KDS or small Allltrax for final controller.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

oops, clamp....

That might be OK.... just keep an eye on it.


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