# Wolfswagen '69 VW Beetle / Baja Build



## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Welcome fellow Bugger! Looks good so far! What do you have in mind for motor, batteries, range, and typical use?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Be sure to replace all the bushings and get a real good set of shocks. You may want to upgrade the front sway bar to a heavier duty one. Urethane bushing will give you long life but will be a bit stiffer. I chose to use urethane bushings. Be sure your doors shut solid and that you replace all your rubber seals including the pan to body seal. Be sure you have a good steering box. Transmission mounts are now available in urethane as well as bushings. Have used them for years. Nice to see another VW being converted. 

Pete 

Love photos. Keep em coming.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> Welcome fellow Bugger! Looks good so far! What do you have in mind for motor, batteries, range, and typical use?


Thanks! I've been comparing notes between the WarP 9, the Kostov 10" and the ME1002 for a motor. I hope to be able to reach 70 mph (with quick acceleration to 40) and get a minimum of 50 miles out of it. I want to build it as a 120V initially, with 10 AGMs (Optima D27M or similar), with an upgrade to lithium and 144V when the AGMs give out in a few years. We live a quick 6 miles from work, so this car will become our daily driver (selling all other vehicles to fund the project - I just sold my '71 LeMans beast).


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> Be sure to replace all the bushings and get a real good set of shocks. You may want to upgrade the front sway bar to a heavier duty one. Urethane bushing will give you long life but will be a bit stiffer. I chose to use urethane bushings. Be sure your doors shut solid and that you replace all your rubber seals including the pan to body seal. Be sure you have a good steering box. Transmission mounts are now available in urethane as well as bushings. Have used them for years. Nice to see another VW being converted.
> 
> Pete
> 
> Love photos. Keep em coming.


Thank you, Pete. The car is getting 100% new bushings, bearings, and even stainless bolts where possible. The car had its original fenders... I tore out all the seals years ago before putting it in storage, so it'll have all new rubber everywhere. I'm converting to one-piece windows for a cleaner look (and less weight). I'm going to tighten up the steering box when I align the front, but I may replace it soon. 

During the winter, I'm going to find another tranny and rebuild it with custom ring & pinion - it sounds like gearing is the number one issue with Bug conversions. There's plenty of power at low speeds, but it wraps up quickly. If I can spread the gears out a bit and make 1st actually useful...


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

How much are the AGMs you're looking at? You're not going to get close to 50 miles with them. Especially with how short your commute is, you'd be best off going with a small lithium pack for starters, then adding on to it later.

I don't think you'll be saving much with the AGMs, and the amount of rework it causes will be significant.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> How much are the AGMs you're looking at? You're not going to get close to 50 miles with them. Especially with how short your commute is, you'd be best off going with a small lithium pack for starters, then adding on to it later.
> 
> I don't think you'll be saving much with the AGMs, and the amount of rework it causes will be significant.


Batteries and chargers will be the last thing I decide upon, and it'll be based on what's remaining in my budget. The Optimas are $200 - $220 each, but I've seen a few AGMs that are cheaper with better rating for amphours (the best Optimas are 66ah if I remember correctly). The problem is that the other batteries are around 80 lbs, while the Optimas are just over 50...


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

These are marine batteries, correct? If so, they will not last long as they are not intended for traction applications. My first pack was marines (29DC) and they lasted about a year. I would expect a 14-22 mile range (50-80% DOD when new) with a group 27 battery pack, but I don't know how those optimas are rated.

Building the battery racks/boxes takes longer than any other part of the project, so it's not really something you want to redo.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> These are marine batteries, correct? If so, they will not last long as they are not intended for traction applications. My first pack was marines (29DC) and they lasted about a year. I would expect a 14-22 mile range (50-80% DOD when new) with a group 27 battery pack, but I don't know how those optimas are rated.
> 
> Building the battery racks/boxes takes longer than any other part of the project, so it's not really something you want to redo.


Although I've built many cars and several motorcycles from a bare frame, this will be my first EV, so I definitely appreciate any/all guidance, assistance, and recommendations! I expect to make mistakes, but thru your comments I should make fewer of them.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Today's update. I've installed the transmission, removed the rear suspension and added more parts to the front suspension. Next will be reinstalling the rear suspension with new bushings (and paint), dropping the torsion arm two clicks per side (it is a Baja BTW), and bending the new steel brake lines.

I'm waiting on a few small parts to arrive, which is why it looks like I'm working haphazardly. If only shipping from California didn't take so long...


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

I just noticed, but you can see the chopped off rear end in the upper part of the photo...


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Weekly update. The brakes and suspension are installed, minus master cylinder and steel lines. I installed the rear wheels, but the fronts need to be cleaned/painted first. Next is finishing the brakes and installing the axles that just arrived.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

You've been busy. Looks great. What seats are you using? I see you're not using stock seats. Is the transmission a freeway flyer or stock? I am using a stock gear ratio but 3.44:1 R&P in my Pro Stock tranny. I got all the goodies in my tranny.


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## ricklearned (Mar 3, 2012)

Wolfswagen said:


> I just noticed, but you can see the chopped off rear end in the upper part of the photo...


Do you mean the apron? I chopped mine off and some day will get a fiberglass one without the exhaust indents. 

Those are some big tires. In the interest of weight and efficiency I am sticking with the stock tires for less rolling resistance. I am thinking that I might want to go with alloy rims. This is also my first EV.


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## ricklearned (Mar 3, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> You've been busy. Looks great. What seats are you using? I see you're not using stock seats. Is the transmission a freeway flyer or stock? I am using a stock gear ratio but 3.44:1 R&P in my Pro Stock tranny. I got all the goodies in my tranny.


What do you mean by all the goodies? I have heard of things like welding some of the gears. I have a new tranny in my future, (In a year or so, after my 2nd batch of batteries to get me to 180Ahrs)


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> You've been busy. Looks great. What seats are you using? I see you're not using stock seats. Is the transmission a freeway flyer or stock? I am using a stock gear ratio but 3.44:1 R&P in my Pro Stock tranny. I got all the goodies in my tranny.


Thanks for giving me the opportunity to show off the seats that have been sitting in boxes in my garage for over three years now... These were intended for my LeMans project (sold a month ago), and they're about half the weight of stock seats (maybe less).

The tranny is stock - the original that came in the car from the factory with 4.125 ring & pinion. In my spare time this winter, I'm thinking of building my version of a freeway flyer. I've been looking at custom gears and even the upgrade to a Porsche 902 5-speed if I find one (simple conversion - see http://www.aircooled.net/vw-transmission-porsche-5-speed-conversion/ ).


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

ricklearned said:


> Do you mean the apron? I chopped mine off and some day will get a fiberglass one without the exhaust indents.
> 
> Those are some big tires. In the interest of weight and efficiency I am sticking with the stock tires for less rolling resistance. I am thinking that I might want to go with alloy rims. This is also my first EV.


It's the whole back end. I'm converting to baja. The front end will be cut as soon as I jump headfirst into the real bodywork (I cut the back early just to have more room in the garage). If the finished car, with batteries, is still over 2,000 lbs., the sawsall is coming out again. I considered a one-piece tilt front end, but I'm going to try it first with just the wide-eye kit.

The tires may be temporary. I have a VW wheel that won't hold air (rust along the rim that I've tried to fix), so to get the chassis rolling I slapped on some Cragars. I do have some that are more narrow from the front of the LeMans, but the tire height doesn't meet the VW stock 15s...


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

It may look like I'm getting nowhere since I haven't posted in a few weeks, but I've been traveling and just doing bodywork when I get a few minutes. The baja will be Rat Rod Satin Black, and later I'll add some John Deere Green undertones. The theme is the Bride of Frankenstein, so I'm looking for a local airbrusher...

I plan to order the motor this weekend, and I'm still up in the air between a Kostov 10", WarP 9, or the newer MotoEnergy ME1002 (which is ~$400 less but heavier).

I still have about two vacation days worth of solid bodywork before the body is ready to go back on the pan - possibly this weekend. Next will be the final paint job, then the 12v wiring.


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## ricklearned (Mar 3, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> Be sure to replace all the bushings ....


Great advice. I replaced all the bushings except the rear ones and they are the ones now making all the noise. It would have been easier when the transmission was out of the car because everything is more accessible. Welcome to another Battery Bugger.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Here are some photos of the current state of the project. The pan is rolling, and other than some work on the brakes and clutch release it's ready for the body. It's covered up in the picture, but the pan now has a layer of Dynamat added.

I installed the baja fenders to check some clearances. I'm basically working on the body from the inside out and from the bottom up. I'll do the general primering/sanding of the exterior after it's back on the pan, but it's much easier to finish the interior paint now.

Another photo shows underneath the front hood. I'll be using this photo to sketch out the new wiring harness from Rebel Wires - complete with blade fuses. These wires are marked every six inches, so the install will almost not need instructions... http://rebelwire.com/ 

Since this is a baja, I plan to install the controller and the other important 144v gear inside in the area that used to be behind the seat. It'll be ventilated with two 120mm fans to the outside, and boxed in to keep the interior quiet.

I couldn't find a source that could deliver the Motoenergy ME1002 motor for less than ~$350 shipping, so I'll be keeping it light with the Kostov 9".


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Here's the latest from today - the body is back on the pan. This may not be much for the people looking for e-car info yet, but we'll get there...

I found a finned aluminum heatsink for mounting the Curtis on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-UNIT-LARG...483?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc991c983 

Next is to finish the bodywork/paint, then install the glass and new 12v wiring.


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## machineguy (Sep 4, 2012)

Very nice.!


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Time to pull the trigger on a motor purchase... I've been digging up research to compare motors, and I simply can't find enough "impartial" EV'ers providing data on the Motoenergy (Mars) ME1002. Shipping at it's lowest is $362 (~200lb motor), making it almost as expensive in total (total $1,660) as the Kostov 10" ($1,856).

The Kostov 9" is light enough to ship cheaply (total $1,430). My only concern is that it'll be underpowered.

I could squeeze the budget a bit and go for the Kostov 10", Impulse or Warp9. The difference is it'll take longer before I'm ready to buy batteries... My middle name is Overkill, but there's no sense buying a motor that'll never see it's potential in a 144v Baja with a Curtis 1231 setup.

Thoughts?


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

I'm happy with a 6.7, so I think any 9 or better should be great.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Wolfswagen said:


> Time to pull the trigger on a motor purchase... I've been digging up research to compare motors, and I simply can't find enough "impartial" EV'ers providing data on the Motoenergy (Mars) ME1002. Shipping at it's lowest is $362 (~200lb motor), making it almost as expensive in total (total $1,660) as the Kostov 10" ($1,856).
> 
> The Kostov 9" is light enough to ship cheaply (total $1,430). My only concern is that it'll be underpowered.
> 
> ...


Any 9" motor will be good in your Baja Bug. I used a Warp9 Impulse in my MG and it was a great motor. I used a 9" GE motor in my First Ghia and it was great. I used an 11" Kostov in my black bug and it is great. I have a 7 1/2 in motor and it is weenie for a Beetle. For a fiberglass buggy it would be fine for street and some freeway with at least 96 volts. Some have 8" ADC motors and like them too. I think that 11" is way overkill for the VW. For my Bus I think it will be fine. 

Did you see my last movie? 

Pete


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> Did you see my last movie?
> 
> Pete


If you mean the "Last Drive", I think that was the number one reason I had to ask if the Kostov 9" (144v version) would be sufficient. There's a big jump in performance between their 9" and the 10". With my setup and the hopes to keep under 2,000 lbs, the 9" may still be more than enough.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> I'm happy with a 6.7, so I think any 9 or better should be great.


 
Thanks! To the sound of roughly $550 less after shipping to Ohio than the other motors I listed, the Kostov 9" sounds like the best deal around. I was also tracking the ES-31B, which would be another $200 lower in overall cost - just didn't feel that the power was there (this is uncharted territory for me, so I could be way off and the ES-31B could be a surprise).


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

For just $200 less the D&D would not be a good deal. I wasn't aware of Kostov's when I got mine. What are the specs on the Kostov 9? It must be crazy light to affordably ship overseas. I'm still a year or two from even maxing out my little motor but it's always interesting to know how things stack up.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Don't hesitate one more second... the Kostov 9 is way more attractive for your conversion compare to the long 6.7'' D&D motor.
With 100 lbs-ft of torque and 78% of efficiency at 500A (over 84% peak), the K9 will give you a good motor. http://rebirthauto.com/kostovmotors.aspx
The Impulse 9 and the Warp 9 can also be a good choise.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> What are the specs on the Kostov 9?


The 9" is 92 lbs (220v version is just over 100 lbs, but $1,700 plus shipping). Here's a link showing the info on the Kostov models: http://www.electriccarpartscompany....r-144-250V-176-270A-DC-br-EV-Motors_p_37.html


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Yabert said:


> Don't hesitate one more second... the Kostov 9 is way more attractive for your conversion compare to the long 6.7'' D&D motor.
> With 100 lbs-ft of torque and 78% of efficiency at 500A (over 84% peak), the K9 will give you a good motor. http://rebirthauto.com/kostovmotors.aspx
> The Impulse 9 and the Warp 9 can also be a good choise.


I just paid for the Kostov 9" - that's the same company I was tracking already for that specific motor (shipping was only $80). Other than working on the paintjob and 12v stuff, I can now start researching batteries...


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## MN Driver (Sep 29, 2009)

Wolfswagen said:


> I just paid for the Kostov 9" - that's the same company I was tracking already for that specific motor (shipping was only $80). Other than working on the paintjob and 12v stuff, I can now start researching batteries...


Did you just put your order in? I was planning to put my order in but they usually group the shipment when they have multiple orders to fill and then usually stock some Kostov 144v motors and the others they stock on their site but they don't keep stock of the 220v(not sure why, it's one of the best motors for lighter conversions and allows power into a higher RPM band and about the best IMHO you can pair with a Soliton Jr). If they've already filled the order with Kostov, I might be out of luck for about 3 months or whenever the next shipment is placed for them to be imported. Did they give you a estimated shipment timeframe?


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

MN Driver said:


> Did you just put your order in? I was planning to put my order in but they usually group the shipment when they have multiple orders to fill and then usually stock some Kostov 144v motors and the others they stock on their site but they don't keep stock of the 220v(not sure why, it's one of the best motors for lighter conversions and allows power into a higher RPM band and about the best IMHO you can pair with a Soliton Jr). If they've already filled the order with Kostov, I might be out of luck for about 3 months or whenever the next shipment is placed for them to be imported. Did they give you a estimated shipment timeframe?


I did get the email receipt with the order number, but nothing yet that gives me a rough delivery date. If they run out often, they should mention somewhere that they're out of stock. I'll post again when I get a delivery date.


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## MN Driver (Sep 29, 2009)

Wolfswagen said:


> I did get the email receipt with the order number, but nothing yet that gives me a rough delivery date. If they run out often, they should mention somewhere that they're out of stock. I'll post again when I get a delivery date.


Wait, I may have missed it but it depends on which Kostov 9" you ordered from Rebirth. If it was the 144v or any motor they show on their site, it should ship quickly as they stock those. If you special ordered the 220v from them, then I would expect that they would have said something about the lead time since those specifically aren't in stock and that they need a 12 week lead time in order to bundle stock orders with the custom order to keep shipping costs reasonable.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

MN Driver said:


> If it was the 144v or any motor they show on their site, it should ship quickly as they stock those.


I resolved for the 144v version, just because the Curtis I have is limited to 144v as well. At 92 lbs, the 144v keeps to the "lightweight by any means" concept, although if I was truly serious about that I could use a few pounds myself before I get this on the road.

Now that I'm looking into batteries during my breaks between hand sanding, I need to decide if I'm going to start at 144v or just get it on the road with a smaller pack (96v or 120v) and upgrade the pack next year (requiring another charger of course). Does anyone know if the Zivan chargers are easy to modify, or are they (and others) hard-wired at the single voltage/battery type?


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## MN Driver (Sep 29, 2009)

I can't help you decide too much on the initial voltage but depending on your needs, a charger like this is low cost and adjustable. http://www.russcoev.com/product.html

One of the guys in my local EAA chapter is using an older 120v input version of this in 156v car, he's switching from lead-acid to lithium right now and he is planning to continue to use the charger and if I'm not mistaken, he might be using a slightly higher nominal voltage and will probably have to adjust it, easy enough with this one, it seems.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

MN Driver said:


> I can't help you decide too much on the initial voltage but depending on your needs, a charger like this is low cost and adjustable. http://www.russcoev.com/product.html


Thanks! Looks like a good piece of gear - I'll definitely add that to my list. I've read a while ago that some other chargers can be modified internally (within a specified range), but that charger can be adjusted in mere seconds...


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Another busy weekend, although with all the other projects and events I was only able to spend a few hours on the car today. The first two pictures are the car's final color (Rat Rod Satin Black). The third photo gives a good idea what the rest of the car looked like before the primer.

I had some trouble with the clutch arm, so I had to replace the whole assembly. I also picked up some Artic paste for between the Curtis and the heatsink.

I still have to cut the front to fit the fiberglass front end - hope to have it done by this weekend, and then start on the 12v harness.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Bodywork nearly done, starting on 12v wiring harness. I know that Jack at EVTV doesn't like supporting the pouch battery manufacturers (politics of all things), but I am considering building a smaller pack just to get on the road. I'll have all winter to save and build a much larger pack.

The Kostov 9" was shipped via UPS from Rebirth Auto yesterday, so I might have it before next weekend. I'll be mounting the Curtis 1231C to the oversized aluminum heatsink using a standoff design, and two 120mm fans pushing (I''l be sure to take pictures before/while building the box).

Today, I painted the front fenders, cut the nose and installed the Baja front end, installed the rear quarter windows, installed the steering column, and ran the 12v wires that go to the rear lights. The carbon fiber seats will be a tight fit - I may have to either offset them or shave some of the shoulder off one or both.

The first photo shows the test fit of the fiberglass hood (blurry - sorry). The second has the wires for the rear lighting looped thru the back window just to keep them off the ground.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

If you just want to get it on the road I'd suggest just using some small prismatics. You're not going to get anywhere quick building a pouch pack, and people are already having problems with them.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> If you just want to get it on the road I'd suggest just using some small prismatics. You're not going to get anywhere quick building a pouch pack, and people are already having problems with them.


I not only took your advice, but I talked to the folks at EVTV about battery selection. I ordered a handful of CALB's CA60FI batteries to get started, and it looks like they'll already be arriving this Friday. I plan to eventually build three 48v packs - after the second pack (96v for those like me who need a calculator) I'll be able to get the car rolling.

The Kostov 9" arrived today (photo provided), and after taking the picture I've attached the adaptor from Rebirth Auto and the flywheel. I'm still working on the 12v harness.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Here is the oversized aluminum heatsink I converted into a stand for the Curtis 1231C. Underneath, I attached two 120mm computer case fans. The second picture shows the Curtis installed.

The clutch is installed on the motor, but I don't plan to bolt it on until I test it with 12v first...


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

The Kostov has been tested with 12v, and is now bolted onto the transaxle. I have a few feet of 4/0 welding cable and some lugs, but I'm not going to build any sections until I get either some proper heatshrink tubing or some marine-type caps. I know that 4/0 may be overkill for this build...

I also received the first batch (15 batteries, ~48v worth) of the CALB CA60FIs. It looks like I'll be keeping it at 96v until next spring - but at least I should be able to get it rolling by the original deadline (Thanksgiving).

I welcome any input on anything I've done so far. Thank you to those that have thrown in their two cents already.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

That's a nice lookin rear end.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Looking good Wolf! That's a handsome adapter too, hope it was trouble free.

What are your battery mounting arrangements? I'm thinking either side the motor in boxes, and in rear storage of car, and upfront wheel well maybe?

Also, I HIGHLY recommend when you design your engine guard, as is typical on Baja bugs, you encore orate a sturdy rear motor mount, and ensure the guard is rigidly tied into the chassis/body to prevent any flexing and support the rear of the motor. Scares me the thought of that poor little motor being bounced about off road. Just my suggestion.

Very handsome bug you're building sir!


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> That's a nice lookin rear end.


Thank you sir - I think the bumper (inbound from California Import Parts), LED taillights/reverse lights, and the stainless firewall is going to finish it up.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

tylerwatts said:


> Looking good Wolf! That's a handsome adapter too, hope it was trouble free.
> 
> What are your battery mounting arrangements? I'm thinking either side the motor in boxes, and in rear storage of car, and upfront wheel well maybe?
> 
> ...


Thank you! The adapter is the billet model from Rebirth Auto, and I had no issues at all. I also think it all went together well because I'm using almost all new parts (new flywheel, clutch system, gland nut, etc.).

I have a tubular baja-style rear bumper coming that will just about finish it up back there. I had the same thought you have towards some type of support, but the ICE is much heavier than this motor (at 92 lbs) and the ICE does pretty well offroad with the four bolts. I'm not arguing by any means - this baja is built for the street.

Regarding the batteries, each 48v group will only be 14" long x 9" wide x 10" high. I'm planning to put the first two groups as low as possible, but in the area where the rear seat used to be. I never planned to put a rear seat back in - originally I was going the lead AGM route. Each 48v group will be about 60 lbs each (27 kg)... I am building a box around the controller that I'll either vent to the outside thru the firewall or to the inside with another computer fan. I'm trying to keep the outside as clean as possible, and now it seems the interior will also be fairly simple (looking).

I will be adding a 12v auxiliary battery (high AH rating) to the front where the fuel tank used to be. At this point, it will remain separate from the HV system and require its own charger.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Ziggythewiz said:


> That's a nice lookin rear end.


+1

Despite your low peak power at 48v (I guess 15-20 hp), I'm sure you will have a lot of fun moving around at 30-35 mph.
Really good cells choice (my opinion).


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Yabert

I think you misunderstand. it is more than one group of 48V, I think 4.

Wolf, my concern was not the mounting of the motor/adapter to the trans, no question that's over-engineered for the diddy Kostov9. My concern is over the length of the motor, any flex between each end flange would twise/misalign the end bearings, and potentially close the air gap until the rotor jams, or the bearings overheat. But tht was for off-roading. If only a street car, there's no worries I don't think!


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Yabert said:


> +1
> 
> Despite your low peak power at 48v (I guess 15-20 hp), I'm sure you will have a lot of fun moving around at 30-35 mph.
> Really good cells choice (my opinion).


I'm planning on getting it rolling once I have 96v worth of batteries (was just saying 48v since I'm going to build separate boxes for groups of 15). At 96v, I can get it rolling and work out the kinks - if I'm satisfied with the acceleration and top speed at 96v (not likely), I'll be looking into adding 30 more in parallel next spring just to increase the range.

If I'm not happy with the acceleration/top speed, I'll be adding 15 more in the spring to see what 144v can do.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

tylerwatts said:


> Yabert
> 
> I think you misunderstand. it is more than one group of 48V


Oh! right. My misunderstood.

So, 96v with Calb CA 60Ah able to supply 600A will be fun in this lightweight buggy... 144v will be really fun!..


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## drivin98 (May 9, 2008)

Nice build with a great balance of components and excellent battery strategy.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

drivin98 said:


> Nice build with a great balance of components and excellent battery strategy.


Thank you! I'll keep up with the photos whenever there's obvious progress, but installing the 12v harness is a slow process (at least I'm making it that way).

Now the race for me is to get everything installed before it snows. The weather is already turning that way - we had our first frost last night...


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

tylerwatts said:


> Yabert
> 
> I think you misunderstand. it is more than one group of 48V, I think 4.
> 
> Wolf, my concern was not the mounting of the motor/adapter to the trans, no question that's over-engineered for the diddy Kostov9. My concern is over the length of the motor, any flex between each end flange would twise/misalign the end bearings, and potentially close the air gap until the rotor jams, or the bearings overheat. But tht was for off-roading. If only a street car, there's no worries I don't think!


There won't be any issues with the adaptor or motor hanging free with no end support. The old VW engine just hung there too with no issues. The adaptor has a support bearing in it too so it removes the load from the motor shaft bearing to the bearing in the adaptor. The adaptor is a killer one and I too am using the same except I have an 11" Kostov attached to mine.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

onegreenev said:


> There won't be any issues with the adaptor or motor hanging free with no end support. The old VW engine just hung there too with no issues. The adaptor has a support bearing in it too so it removes the load from the motor shaft bearing to the bearing in the adaptor. The adaptor is a killer one and I too am using the same except I have an 11" Kostov attached to mine.


Pete, did you find any purpose for the double shaft in the VW? I ordered a single, but received a double...


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

I will be utilizing it for my tach. That is about it. Not much room but I could most likely put on a pulley if I decided I wanted air. The problem is I do not have my FAN attached to the motor. Normally that shaft is for the FAN. To make it fit in the space provided in the Bug I had to leave the fan off and now I have a usable extra shaft but I must make a cover with a hole for pumping in cooling air to keep the sucker cooled off. That I have not done yet. If I use my 9" GE I will have to be creative in coming up with a way to install the tach sensor. I really need that tach sensor on my Kostov. Mine is the old style and does not share the same bolt pattern and is also rated for lower voltage and RPM. But has plenty of grunt which I really like. The transmission is set to utilize the lower RPM but still allow a good quick speeds and top speed in 4th. 

So only the tach sensor for now for the extra shaft you see. 

Pete


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Again gents, my concern was not at the adaptor end of the motor, but the brush end, with the weight of the rotor and stator trying to twist this end down and out of the other end attached to the adapter. No question about the quality of the adapter!

How many bolts hold the Alu ends and the body/stator together? How are they interfaced? These structural details concern me a bit. Remember normally the motor is mounted off its body, so any weight and force is carried through the body (where the main mass resides) and only the rotor forces (already stabalised by their rotation) are carried through the end caps. Still somehting to consider, BUT if onegreenev has lots of running his car liek that then it should not be a problem.


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## ricklearned (Mar 3, 2012)

tylerwatts said:


> Again gents, my concern was not at the adaptor end of the motor, but the brush end, with the weight of the rotor and stator trying to twist this end down and out of the other end attached to the adapter. No question about the quality of the adapter!
> 
> How many bolts hold the Alu ends and the body/stator together? How are they interfaced? These structural details concern me a bit. Remember normally the motor is mounted off its body, so any weight and force is carried through the body (where the main mass resides) and only the rotor forces (already stabalised by their rotation) are carried through the end caps. Still somehting to consider, BUT if onegreenev has lots of running his car liek that then it should not be a problem.


I also have a VW and have run it pretty hard during my three month testing period with no problems. The electric motor is lighter than the ICE and if you search the EVAlbums you will see there are many VW conversions. I have yet to see or hear of any failures. HPEVs aand the other well known motor manufacturers also have had quite a bit of experience and I for one will trust that at face value.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

There have been failures, but without a transparent aluminum housing and NASA grade sensors it's impossible to say what caused the failure.

In my case I had a shaft coupler fail after 2K miles. I've heard that could be caused by excessive torque, misalignment, or (welding) temp related metal fatigue.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

In a Beetle the motor is supposed to hang off the transaxle, like this:


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Today's update - thanks to some work-related travel and not having electricity for five days (Storm Sandy), I'm a little behind on my goals. I've included some pictures, but I'm still working on the 12v system and preparing to order the rest of the batteries. 

I have a JLD404, but I haven't decided where to install it. The dash looks bare, but it's about 50% done. I just bolted on the LED taillights and finally sanded/primed the passenger door. The HV part of the project is nearly finished, and I plan to have the boxes built before the second half of the batteries arrive.

If the weather is good, I hope to install the headlights, horn(s) and turn signals tomorrow. As I rushed to get ready for the storm, organization went out the window...

I'm thinking of using a PowerLab 6 or 8 to bottom balance the pack before connecting everything up. Is there any reason to go for the PL8, or is the PL6 good enough?


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Looks great! Be sure to place check the placement of the wheel before mounting anything on the dash there. What seems like an easy to see/reach location may not be.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> Looks great! Be sure to place check the placement of the wheel before mounting anything on the dash there. What seems like an easy to see/reach location may not be.


I know exactly what you mean. I did install the wheel first - note that it'll be an aftermarket Grant 3-spoke wheel that does a much better job of allowing me to see the dash. I removed it again just to keep it out of the way until I finish that area.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Although I'm nearly done, work on the car has slowed down a bit. I'm still waiting on contractors to fix my roof and chimney after Sandy passed thru...

I did receive the second set of batteries (15 CALB CA60FI), and I'm slowly going thru the process of bottom balancing the 48v packs before installing them both in the car. Each battery box will go directly behind the seat, as low as I can install them. I can't believe how light each box is - less than 80 lbs for 15 batteries.

I still have some 12v wiring to finish, and I'm waiting on a custom marine 12v battery box from eBay that I'll install in the front where the gas tank used to be. I have some painting to do (bumpers), but now that it's getting cold out I'll probably just install them and wait 'til spring to paint.

I picked up a spare used Curtis 1231C-8601 from eBay - couldn't resist the price! I also have a 96v charger on its way, which should be the last "large ticket" item I have to buy until I add more batteries next summer.


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

Keep up with the good work.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Just an update...

I'm having trouble with the installation of the aftermarket 12v harness (now that it's nearly completed). I've decided to take a step back and order a completely different harness from American Autowire (Highway 15 kit). Since the entire car is custom, this harness should make installation/adaptation much easier.

I've also been taking my time bottom balancing the batteries per Jack R's instructions. I've built simple boxes for the batteries, and they will still go behind the seats as I originally planned. Also, the Elcon charger is being programmed now and should be shipped in the next week or so.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Except for the lights, the 12v harness is almost done. Here is a picture of the custom dash, one of the temporary battery boxes and the enclosure for the controller:


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

Very nice.
I am working on wiring the EV components and integrating them with the original wiring. I may be able to test my water heater today , I hope to have it ready to be daily driven by this weekend.
Friday I did another "drive test"  , 6 EV miles , I got it up to 39 mph on a 35 mph street. I love it  .


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Looks good! I finally have 1 wood batt box (of 3) and a wood bench on the some others (should have made that day 1) but still haven't had time to insulate and box the rest in spite of super cold (for Houston) weather.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Thanks, gents! Regarding the battery boxes, I thought I could build something simple with aluminum sheeting and I didn't get the results I thought I'd have.  I can at least get the batteries in place now just to get the car moving, but I will definitely be building different boxes soon. I watched a 6-part video on YouTube for building acrylic aquariums, and I think I may get better results.

I still have to cut the holes in the front fenders for the headlight buckets. They didn't come with a template, and I haven't found one anywhere, which is why I've taken this long to do anything about it. I'm going to make some templates tonight - once that's done and the holes are cut I'll be one huge step towards getting it on the road.

I have been waiting to install the carpet until I have the wiring done, but I'm almost there. The charger arrived (ElCon PFC1500), and it will go in the front next to the auxilliary battery box. The 12v charger is on its way. After the carpet goes in, the second battery box will go behind the passenger seat and I will finally be able to test the controller and motor.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Today I finally installed the second battery pack (completing the 96v set) and charged them in series to 100%. It took close to 6 1/2 hours with the ELCON PFC1500. While I was waiting for the charge, I installed the passenger seat, passenger door, a bit more carpeting, and re-installed the hood.

I can only think of a few small 12v wires that still require attention - the interior lights, the electronic speedometer, the horn, and the alarm. I'm also having issues with the brake switches, but I'll be installing a new reservoir this week that should solve the fluid imbalances.

By the end of this week, I plan to jack up the rear and test the system. If I can get the brakes where I trust them and all else goes well, I might just take the car around the block...


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

Congratulations, I have 500 miles on mine, is my daily driver.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Wolfswagen said:


> I can only think of a few small 12v wires that still require attention - the interior lights, the electronic speedometer, the horn, and the alarm. I'm also having issues with the brake switches, but I'll be installing a new reservoir this week that should solve the fluid imbalances.


Don't worry, you'll think of more 

I had issues with my brake switches. They never triggered the error light when something was wrong but instead melted a hole in the switch and drained all my fluid leaving me swerving over dividers to dodge a truck and a stupid cop.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> Don't worry, you'll think of more
> 
> I had issues with my brake switches. They never triggered the error light when something was wrong but instead melted a hole in the switch and drained all my fluid leaving me swerving over dividers to dodge a truck and a stupid cop.


I might just change the switches from three-prong to the older two-prong version just to avoid such a predicament. I can't get the warning light to turn off, so I don't have power going to the switches at the moment. I'll try bleeding them once more (always fun solo, esp. with the dual bleeders on the front calipers). Another thought is to give in and take it to a shop. It needs an alignment anyway...


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

That's what I did (2 prong). The alignment took a dozen tries, but after reading about lots of people who paid good money for a crappy job I figured it was worth it.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

I finally figured out a wiring problem, and the Baja now moves with electric power for the first time. Here are some updated photos, including the rear bumper now installed, along with the batteries behind the seats and the speaker/controller box with the trap door open.

I hope to be ready for a test drive this weekend... I also started a simple webpage where I will be continuing my progress (www.wolfswagen.me). If you get a chance to check it out, feel free to let me know what other info I should put out there. I should have the Facebook link working soon as well.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Excellent. Glad to see it is ready to drive. Good that you have a site so others can have a look at the continuing progress. Makes it easy for blogs and photos. Good job


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

I like it!
Enjoy your first test drive!


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Yesterday afternoon, the weather was finally nice enough to finish a couple small things on the Baja and take it for a spin. In all, I went about four miles. Here's a picture of the car parked outside a great little Mexican restaurant.

I'm starting to get an idea of what you mean by "EV Grin". After I parked where the car sits in the photo, a kid riding his bike had to do a doubletake - and almost slammed straight into a telephone pole! I took my wife for a ride around the block, then took a neighbor who has been following the project since inception.

I'm now re-motivated to get a few more of the little things done so the car can be tested further. Thanks again for all your support since I started this project - this new adventure is going to be fun.


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

Congratulations for your first drive.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

Now that I have the JLD404 connected and I'm watching amp hours, I've been able to test the car a bit more. I'm not past the problems with the faulty master cylinder (it stops, but the brake lights don't turn off), but I have a new one coming from Chirco that should be a step up.

My first test from 100% charge to the 80% point resulted in 13.0 miles. I was able to get it to 41 mph in 3rd (in a 35), and I guestimate I could push it to 50 with a bit more effort. Also, it only takes 4 hours to charge...

I have been driving it around town more often. Today included the inevitable drive to DMV where I had to verify the VIN (transferring from NC to OH title). I'd say the lady at DMV freaked out, but that actually isn't a surprise - everyone freaks out when they see it. There were high school kids that just got out of school for the day yelling at me from every corner I drove past, which would have normally made me think I was losing a fender or something.

I have a few more things to finish on it before I can leave it parked out of sight (front windows, Viper alarm, etc.), but now I think I could see a market in this area for NEVs. I'm close enough to downtown that there's no need for additional range - not really - and 20 miles tops is all I normally drive except on Saturday.


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

Congratulations !


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

I've found some conflicting instructions for wiring up the JLD404. Could someone send a picture of the back of theirs installed, showing how it has been wired to display voltage and AH? I think I have it right, but before I start changing settings I want to be positive.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Not a great pic of the JLD, but there are 2 in there if you can make em out!

It's really straightforward. 2 leads for 12V power, + pack lead near the middle. Shunt leads on the end.


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

I'm closing in on 300 EV miles - mostly from just cruising around town. The car definitely gets attention, and most folks are obviously confused when they see the back end and the electric motor sticking out. In fact, today I rolled up behind three kids as they were riding bicycles - they didn't hear me at all, but they all were shouting "nice car" as I passed them. 

I've attached one of the latest photos... I still hope to add another 15 CALBs soon to take this to 144v. Thanks again for all the assistance as I built this monster!


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

Nice to see you getting EV miles  .


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## Wolfswagen (Jul 2, 2012)

I know it's been a few months - I've been working on other projects and haven't been back to this site in a while. The Baja is still working great, although the snow we've had in Cleveland so far has kept it in the garage.

Ekthor,
Thank you for the comments, and congratulations on your build. Cost was not as much of a concern for me as trust, so I followed a different path than you. Starting your post with "something must be very wrong" makes me wonder if you fully understand my build or the goals I've achieved (for myself and nobody else). The car has passed 1,200 miles as an EV, and after aligning the front end the performance is much better. As I've mentioned on the car's Facebook page, I would not change a thing I've done with the car build. The only changes I have on the horizon are to add a heater (maybe) and to increase the battery pack *from 96v to 144v*. Thanks again for your comments and criticisms...


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