# cheap again, contactor-!teseract?



## Coley (Jul 26, 2007)

If you are going to use it for your MAIN contactor....forget it.

You need a much stouter contactor than that.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

Watch the DC rating for contactors. Units rated for 24 volts DC are likely to fail the first time you really need them to work. Units rated for 240 volts AC are equally likely to fail the first time you really need them. 

There are some Chinese made copies of the Albright SW200 contactor out there that likely would work and are not that expensive. Here is an EV supplier with the SW200 and the DC rated copy for sale.


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

lou-ace said:


> hey guys what do you think of this contactor for my 144 volt system.
> 
> http://shopping.murcal.com/Catalog/Bear-DC-Contactor-Family/114-1211-020


Is this like the spotlight to signal Batman or something? 

Well, the above contactor has a 100% duty cycle rating, which means it can remain energized continuously without the _coil_ overheating. 

The continuous current rating is 225A, which is probably adequate for a budget conversion.

But, _this contactor will fail if it ever has to interrupt a fault!_ Since that is one of the primary functions of the main contactor, I'd say nope, can't use it. And when I say fail, I mean that if the controller shorts and you hit the E-stop button to open this contactor, an arc will form between the contacts and current will keep flowing until the contactor catches on fire - literally.

So, carry a fire extinguisher (ABC type only!) with you or else get a proper contactor  

The Albright SW200 is a good choice (dunno about the Chinese copies... contact plating is very important for this application) but my personal favorite is the Tyco/Kilovac EV200.


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## lou-ace (Jul 21, 2009)

Soooo. is that what is meant when they mention " with blowouts" in the advertisement?

But, _this contactor will fail if it ever has to interrupt a fault!_ Since that is one of the primary functions of the main contactor, I'd say nope, can't use it. And when I say fail, I mean that if the controller shorts and you hit the E-stop button to open this contactor, an arc will form between the contacts and current will keep flowing until the contactor catches on fire - literally.


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

lou-ace said:


> Soooo. is that what is meant when they mention " with blowouts" in the advertisement?


Yep... magnetic blowouts, or just "blowouts", are magnets arranged so that if an arc forms when the contactor opens the magnetic field pushes the arc away. They are pretty much a requirement on any contactor rated to interrupt more than 36V.

You pretty much want to use a contactor that is made for this application. Alternatively, you could maybe get away with putting a bunch of automotive starter contactors (aka "solenoids") in series with capacitors across each one. Say, 10uF polypropylene film. But this is getting awfully complicated just to save, maybe, $20. And it still won't be more reliable than a single Tyco EV200.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

I tried using 6 Ford Truck starter relays to control 36 V and only about 200 Amps. They would get really hot in just 10 minutes or so. My generic contactors (look like an Albright SW200) stay nice and cool.


Tesseract said:


> Yep... magnetic blowouts, or just "blowouts", are magnets arranged so that if an arc forms when the contactor opens the magnetic field pushes the arc away. They are pretty much a requirement on any contactor rated to interrupt more than 36V.
> 
> You pretty much want to use a contactor that is made for this application. Alternatively, you could maybe get away with putting a bunch of automotive starter contactors (aka "solenoids") in series with capacitors across each one. Say, 10uF polypropylene film. But this is getting awfully complicated just to save, maybe, $20. And it still won't be more reliable than a single Tyco EV200.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Just get an EV200aaana on ebay and be done, you'll wish you had one to begin with.

After using Albright, White Rogers and Tyco Kilovacs, the Tyco Kilovac EV200 is my favorite, and I haven't had any problems. If you are patient, you can get them for under $100 on ebay.


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## Guest (Jun 4, 2010)

Picked up two at the VW show that were from an electric bus along with two huge fuses for $5 bucks. Work perfect. That was a score. I now have 5 of them. Nice to have spares. 

Pete


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## lou-ace (Jul 21, 2009)

frodus said:


> Just get an EV200aaana on ebay and be done, you'll wish you had one to begin with.
> 
> After using Albright, White Rogers and Tyco Kilovacs, the Tyco Kilovac EV200 is my favorite, and I haven't had any problems. If you are patient, you can get them for under $100 on ebay.


 Great responces guys. thanks to all I will try to find that ev 200 and thanks to all again.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

http://wesgarde.com/

just got a quote, $110 each

ebay is cheaper sometimes, but I only see Lots available. Might not hurt to wait.


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## electrabishi (Mar 11, 2008)

frodus said:


> Just get an EV200aaana on ebay and be done, you'll wish you had one to begin with.
> 
> After using Albright, White Rogers and Tyco Kilovacs, the Tyco Kilovac EV200 is my favorite, and I haven't had any problems. If you are patient, you can get them for under $100 on ebay.


I prefer the A4NAA version ;-) They have studs for the coil connections which is a convenient location to put the suppressor diode. ;-)

Ryan sells the LEV-200 for $90 at http://www.evsource.com/tls_relays.php

Been working great in the Electrabishi for 5 years now.

Mike


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Mike,
I got a quote for the EV200 with economizer (lower holding current).... the LEV200 needs a coil suppression diode, the EV200 has an economizer and its built in, it doesn't need the diode.

For the EV200, it beats EVSource. If you don't need the economizer and want to buy a diode, the LEV200 is a great choice.


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