# Sonic 7 EV Aussie build



## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

So that photo was after a lot of hard work.

I ordered the Kit from a company in Perth in 2013 which took about 10 months for chassis to get made up and modified to meet Australian regulations.

Basically and open roadster 2 seat Chassis weighs approx 130 Kg it has a lot more bracing than the original from the UK.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

from the beginning.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

So first order was shopping list:

motor HPEV ACx35 twin
Battery Winston 46 x 160 Ah
Diff BMW E-30 LSD ratio to change

first job was to try and mount and fit everything in the Chassis.

and come up with a bullet prove coupling.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

here is a quick video


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

So the top of photo is to the rear I welded up battery frames out of 50 x 25 mm 2mm RHS. BMS installed and poly carbonate lid to hold every thing down. I use 2mm so I could tap a thread for lid stainless screws.


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## stealthhack (Aug 18, 2011)

Combined power of both motors?
From the clips in youtube i think it can do better.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Evsonic
looks great
I have a "cut price" version - Duncan's Dubious Device" 
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...-dubious-device-44370p8.html?highlight=duncan

I worry about your motor - diff coupling
The diff and motor will move at least a little bit relative to each other 
I used a propshaft - its only about 300mm long but that means that when the diff and motor move the misalignment is OK


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

stealthhack said:


> Combined power of both motors?
> From the clips in youtube i think it can do better.


165 hp

And 190 ft lbs

I will post move video soon

Cheers


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Duncan said:


> Hi Evsonic
> looks great
> I have a "cut price" version - Duncan's Dubious Device"
> http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...-dubious-device-44370p8.html?highlight=duncan
> ...


The thread is behind the build I ended up using a spline cushion coupling it's 3 parts 1 for motor 1 nylon spider in the middle and 1 for the diff it's good for 380 nm and 1 to 1.5 mm of misalignment.

Thanks for comments your build looks great.

Cheers Conrad


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

So I thought I would post some more build Pictures, Any comments welcome I'm not sure I'm on a winner or not.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

As you can see the steering wheel was low I had to move it up and change mounts due to using seats with extra padding.

The large orange conduct is for the battery pack 50 mm2 wire there was about 20KG in this wire.

Cheers


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## palmer_md (Jul 22, 2011)

very cool project. Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to see how this turns out.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Seats in and a nice picture of my messy wiring


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

here is a fire up video after 3 months of mucking around. I had a curtis hand hand programmer and was trying to program electronic throttle and zapped the VCL program. Too much power in a newbie and no idea
Lucky I got taking to Micheal EV West and he helped me out I sent the controllers back to him and he got them re-programmed for free thanks heaps mate AWESOME 

So video you can hear the coupling mark 1 model it was the original BMW tail shaft UNI with a a collar welded in the end to fit the 1 1/8" motor shaft.







Revving to 8500 rpm in under .4 of a second.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

here is a teaser video

I was sorting out Diff ratios trying to work out good acceleration and top speed.

In my excitement I left the hand brake on, and the Diff was shipped from Perth didn't check the oil level it was out of a wreck.

Anyway Ratio is 4.44:1

Enjoy I totally F*&ked the Diff BTW 

Cheers


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Looks like fun
I had everybody saying how quiet mine was - on the inside with no sound deadening at all it was not that quiet

I only wear a helmet when I'm on the track - or it's raining otherwise just sunnies


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Thanks Duncan we were hitting 135kph just before the Diff let go thank god it wasn't on the straight could have been a wee bit messy.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Nice work
What does it weigh ?


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Thanks Guys

As always was the hope was for less than 600 Kg but it ended up around 790Kg, if I blew some $$$ I could get 20 Kg off with lighter wheels.
The split is about 480Kg on the rear and the rest on the front so when it breaks traction that's lots of torque more than 1000 ft/lb at the wheels. I turned down the Accl rate to stop this. Also can get the front wheels off the ground if I give it.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)




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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Above is what $4500 buys you

A BMW racing Diff out of Germany 5.44:1 LSD 180 mm Its a lot bigger than the 166mm but still takes the smaller output shafts.
I had to enlarge mounts a PITA job especially after I have powder coat the chassis.
But only I will no its not powder coated there, BTW the out put shafts were made in Perth they have Ford splines and CVs on outer and BMW on inner another $2000.
All to save a gearbox but I am really pleased with the end result It is sooo easy to drive.

Cheers


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

The clear plastic box in the top of photo is a Shunt to run SOC meter from EV West.
The controllers have a shunt built in BTW, So according to the hourglass read outs I can pull 550 Amps out of each controller at around 152 volts including SAG.
So thats 167Kw !!!! in


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

$4500!!! for the diff!
Plus $2000!
The wife would have killed me - twice!

My budget
Motor - $100
Controller - $1600 (took several goes to get it working but I now have a 300v/1500amp unit and a spare 150v 500amp unit)
Batteries - $3500
Charger - $150 - its a bodge but it works
Adjustable suspension - $1200
All of the "car" bits including an LSD (Subaru) - $200 
Subaru LSD's are common nearly every GT has one 

Chassis/Bodywork - $2000
Not as pretty as yours!

And I still get earache about the cost

I'm currently voltage limited - once I manage to slide some new batteries past the wife I will get up to 200v

Currently 1000amps and 130v - 130Kw!
Takes off like a scalded rat - then kind of runs out of puff at 100Kph


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Nice Duncan

I guess that's the down side of DC and direct drive.

I could potentially got to 10,000 rpm with controller mods and a better coupling.
The great thing about AC is REGEN I can dump back in over 500amps a bit like a over sized Jake brake.

I had it up at the engineers for REGO he had a air strip there and a GT3 Porsche. 
We beat the Porsche from start to stop on the 900 meter strip this included braking. 

So the Iphone app 0-100 best times were 3.2 to 3.4 so allowing for the GPS a good sub 4 I think. and 100-0 in under 4 seconds was starting to lock up.

Quite happy with this.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Great results!

I aim to get down there - I'm very fast off the line - then I start to voltage limit
Once I get that sorted I'll see what I can do

My top speed will be limited by max revs on the motor - probably OK about 130Kph - bit dodgy after that!

How are you doing your brakes?
Do you have a balance bar front/rear on the hydraulics?
How do you cope with variable re-gen braking?

My brakes are off a Subaru (1400Kg) so I'm running totally unpowered but with 740Kg that's OK
With my present balance I seem to be able to lock up front and rear at the same time

Same with the power steering - not needed
One thing that could be handy
I have used a Subaru steering column - I modified the up/down tilt mechanism 
Not for driving but so I can tilt the column out of the way to make it easier to get in and out (I'm a bit old and stiff these days)

It's a lot easier to get in then drop the wheel back into position


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Yes I have a balance bar adjusted all the way to the front.
I have 2 forms of regen

1 is foot off accelerator with a switch on the dash to give 2 set-ups so I can program forward revs reverse revs regeneration and neural regeneration as well as acceleration rate.

Sort of like a sports economy mode

2 regen is with a variable pressure transducer on the brake circuit.

Brakes are twin pot Hispec all round,

Love your idea for the steering wheel I have to step in passenger side and slide under steering wheel.

The rack is low geared 2.5 turns lock to lock not idea for hill climbs but I think good for the street.

I can get to 70 kph on my 40 meter drive way and stop in the last 10 meters with the regen.

The thing I have learnt with these controllers is if you plant your foot get the car going to6 around 1000 to 1200 rpm then back off and give her again it accelerate harder and spins the wheels again .
It's like the program sees the motor speed and instead of acceleration being 0.1 to 8500rpm at zero its 0.1 from 1200rpm to 8500 so it's quicker.

Maybe the Tech boffoms can explain this better.

Cheers Conrad


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Sorry I have been away at my real job for a few weeks.
I will try and fit electronic sensor for Speedo off the input 4 bolts to Diff tomorrow has anyone done this as I don't have a Speedo output from gearbox .

I had a Hummingbird GPS Speedo in that even worked in my steel shed. But they are not Australian design approved.

Any input welcome.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
Speedo - GPS is not legal here I used a "Cycle Analyst" - its my only instrument!
Its just under the grab handle (I said I was getting old and stiff)

I do have "Lee Hart Batt Bridges" - that is the box nearest the wheel

1518
This shows the wheel in the operating position
1519
Top view - you can see where I have ground metal away on the top of the column
1520
Operating position
1521
Highest operating position
The column is locked - and can be used like this
1522
Up for entry
The column is not locked and cannot be used like this (the wheel won't go round)
1523
looking into the cab
(The red spade handle is the "Oh Shit" lever - it physically unplugs the battery


I used a Subaru legacy column and simply cut away the limit stop and the metal that stopped the column from going up
That included the metal the springs hooked into so I drilled two new holes to hook the springs - increases the force a bit


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

Isspro make a speedo Hall effect sensor kit which allows you to glue some magnets to the driveshaft etc. to produce the speedo drive pulses.

I have a transmission and it turns out that the GM/Mopar electronic speedo sender unit fits my Toyota 5 spd with a minor mod (cutting the end off the old speedo cable to enlarge the Mopar unit's drive shaft to fit), so that's what I used.


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## Baratong (Nov 29, 2012)

EVsonic said:


> Sorry I have been away at my real job for a few weeks.
> I will try and fit electronic sensor for Speedo off the input 4 bolts to Diff tomorrow has anyone done this as I don't have a Speedo output from gearbox .
> 
> I had a Hummingbird GPS Speedo in that even worked in my steel shed. But they are not Australian design approved.
> ...


I went with a 'programmable' speedometer. It takes in pulses from a hall effect sensor, but lets you tell it how many pulses per mile (or kilometer). You could put the sensor right on your motor's tail-shaft. You can tell it how many pulses per mile it should use, or you can put it in 'program' mode and drive exactly one mile while it counts pulses.

Here's where I bought mine : http://stores.ebay.com/industrialstuffs/Gauge-Speedo-and-Tacho-/_i.html?_fsub=4675295017

And there are a variety of sensors from just generic hall-effect, to transmission senders, or even GPS sender. http://stores.ebay.com/Industrial-s...491719017&_sid=20027877&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Thanks guys 

Duncan your steering wheel mod is impressive.

So I tried the car out tonight on driveway with new LED light bulbs the are awesome, I just have to get use to looking at lights being so low. Not that I will be doing much night time driving with Kangaroos wombats and deer around.

I have another problem the side panels make any noise from bumps and the road noise really loud I need to fill with something.

Any ideas?.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

So I have done a couple of 10km runs on our dirt road this thing is awesome it accelerates from any speed even 120kph and spins the back wheels on the dirt at this speed.
I am trying get my e-pert pro battery monitor to synchronize.
Because every time I key switch it asks to synchronize again

Any ideas

Cheers KIWI


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

I got hold of Michael from EV West it turns out I have to battery power to monitor all the time not key switched.

A quick wiring job and should be right.

Only drama now is my Kingpan charger stopped working.

Ifs in the post back to EV Works, if got me thinking I could get 10 solar panels that would give me around 160 volts at 17 amps for $4100 or I could go 20 panels for 34 amps at $8200 that should charge the pack in 3-4 hours for nothing. EV works have done this with no solar controller but you have to watch battery volts and manually un-plug.

Has anyone else done this would like your thoughts.

Cheers Kiwi


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## stealthhack (Aug 18, 2011)

I want video with the new differential. 
Eye candy machine.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Will do Stealthhack

need to get some gopro and drone footage planing on registration around September in the spring.

Cheers Kiwi


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

EV works came good on replacing charger new one one the way

So next week I can get back to getting my expro battery monitor working.

Cheers Kiwi


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

I think your solar panel direct charging method could work, with a cell by cell BMS to stop the charge. Or if your pack is bottom balanced and you know which cell tops out first every time and at what pack voltage you can stop charge reliably without that cell going over, then you could just use the HV alarm on your EEPro to trip a contractor to stop the charge at that voltage.

Impressive machine! Enjoy it!


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## Thalass (Dec 28, 2007)

Oh wow that is one expensive vehicle you've got there. Brilliant build, mate! Very nicely done.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Thalass said:


> Oh wow that is one expensive vehicle you've got there. Brilliant build, mate! Very nicely done.


Thanks mate!!

I finally took her to my first hillclimb after numerous toilet stops and nerves we did 2 runs first was 52 seconds and second run was 49 seconds, I won the open car class and being the only EV won that class. The car went fast it was the driver getting use to the track that was the issue.
to give you an idea see below.
But I was only7 seconds behind all wheel drive Subaru race cars.

Cheers Kiwi


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## galderdi (Nov 17, 2015)

I Love them both!!!!

They are a little different from mine and there are a few aspects that wouldn't work for me, like the roll bar (wouldn't meet CAMS requirements). But I wish I had seen this before I built mine as I might have done a few things differently. Having said that mine might be lower power but it is also looking like being around 530KG.


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

galderdi said:


> I Love them both!!!!
> 
> They are a little different from mine and there are a few aspects that wouldn't work for me, like the roll bar (wouldn't meet CAMS requirements). But I wish I had seen this before I built mine as I might have done a few things differently. Having said that mine might be lower power but it is also looking like being around 530KG.


Thanks mate

The car is actually CAMs rated for speed events you dont need roll over unless you are racing with other cars at the same time.

Most of my weight is in batteries over 280kg with connectors and boxes, I did run the car with a small pack there was not much difference in acceleration but I couldn't go WOT for more than 30 to 40 seconds because lower Ah C rating.

The Car feels more locked on the track than with the light pack it use wheel spin more and I had to lower the slew rate on the controllers.
Cheers Kiwi


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Just a quick update the Sonic is off to canberra tomorrow for SummerNats

Come and check us out.
Cheers Kiwi


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

SummerNats was a blast a mate done up this video for me.
Cheers Kiwi


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## Vanquizor (Nov 17, 2009)

Man I feel so cheated- you had the car on a dyno... I watched the whole thing in anticipation but in the end you didn't share the data  I spent the whole time anticipating some honest to got rubber meets the road figures on the AC35x2 but nothing.

You're an even bigger tease than my wife!


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Vanquizor said:


> Man I feel so cheated- you had the car on a dyno... I watched the whole thing in anticipation but in the end you didn't share the data  I spent the whole time anticipating some honest to got rubber meets the road figures on the AC35x2 but nothing.
> 
> You're an even bigger tease than my wife!


Lol so sorry I was waiting on chart to be emailed but haven't received anything yet 

The results were 138hp at the wheels and 1908Nm at 48 rpm at the wheels

Cheers Kiwi


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## EVsonic (Aug 14, 2014)

Still waiting for VIN to get registration 

Cheers Kiwi


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## SWF (Nov 23, 2007)

Hi. Nice job on the build!

I am considering the HPEV dual motor setup for a conversion and have a few questions on your project.

Can you tell me which controllers you are using? I assume you have the 1239-8521 controllers since you mention at one point in the thread a sagged voltage of 152V. The 1238-7601 controllers can also apparently be used with these motors but they have a voltage limit of 120V.

I am trying to decide between the 1238-7601 which has 650A and 120V limits versus the 1239-8521 which has 500A and 170V limits. So the 1238 produces higher peak torque (and initial acceleration) but the 1239 produces higher peak hp and pushes peak hp out to higher rpm. This is all based on power curves on the hpevs web site.

Can you also confirm you are using the non-vented version of the AC35x2? What peak temps are you seeing with aggressive driving? I am not sure if I will use the vented or non-vented version in my build.

Thanks.


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