# Motor mounts



## the slashmaster (Feb 24, 2008)

TimT said:


> When mounting the motor is it necessary to use some type of rubber mount. Or can I just make solid mounts. It doesn't seem to me that vibration is a big issue with an electric set up. Or am I wrong?
> 
> Tim


I know that on cars where motor mounts break easy like volvo's people build solid motor mounts all the time. Should get better results with a electric.


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## Mastiff (Jan 11, 2008)

I think the norm is to build solid mounts, electric motors shouldn't vibrate nearly as much as an ICE with it's crankshaft and it's pounding pistons.


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## Alex Everett (Dec 26, 2007)

Just thinking out loud here but the motor *causing* the vibrations would not be a problem. However, the road conditions and vibrations of the moving vehicle playing against a solid mount electric motor??? I have driven around this entire country (Over The Road Truck Driver Retired) and have hardly ever come across a great road. F.W.I.W. how many pot-holes have you hit?


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## ww321q (Mar 28, 2008)

Another thing to consider is in cars or trucks with frames that they do twist , mostly when turning in driveways and such . A couple rubber washers would work and then use nylock nuts on the bolts. J.W.


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## helixev (Nov 7, 2007)

I can't remember who but someone did advise me to use the stock rubber motor mounts. I mean it gives you some cushion between the frame and the motor/transmission, remember the transmission is also mounted with a rubber block under it (in my truck anyway) so if you make solid mounts on the motor then it is locking the transmission as well...


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## O'Zeeke (Mar 9, 2008)

Tim, check out Nick's Jeep, i think he used solid mounts, thats what i'm doing too in my mustang http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/home.php


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## xrotaryguy (Jul 26, 2007)

I would also recommend rubber mounts. Solid can be nice for race cars because they enable you to set the motor lower in the car, they can take more punishment from a high output motor than stock rubber mounts, etc. They are really crap for a street car though. Do what the previous poster suggested by placing rubber pads on either side of a mounting surface and passing a bolt through it all like a sway bar link kit.


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## Carroll_1 (Dec 18, 2007)

I built a solid motor mount for my S-10. http://www.ev-solutions.net/wp/?p=13#more-13 . My primary consideration was to control the torque produced by the motor, so I designed the mount with enough support to clamp solidly around the motor and simultaneously utilize the threaded lifting hole in the motor to control the torque. I also considered the main purpose of the original rubber mounts was to control ICE vibration, so I felt them unecessary. As far as road vibrations and stress, I feel the suspension is adequate to control those. I've had the vehicle on the road for a few weeks and haven't encountered any problems. However, these are only my opinions. I'll know more as more mileage accumulates.

With that said, I do think it would have been much easier to have utilized the stock rubber isolated mounts. As long as the motor torque is controlled with a seperate torque rod or other mechanism, I think they would be just fine. Just my opinions. If my mount breaks in half next week, I'd probably sing a different tune.


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## John (Sep 11, 2007)

If you go for rubber mounts then all the mounts on the motor and transmission should be flexible. If you go for solid mounts then all the mounts on the motor and transmission should be rigid. For me I think the original rubber mounts are unnecessarily compliant and would allow the motor and transmission to move around too much causing clearance issues with my batteries. I also don't want to go completely solid with my mounts mainly to prevent the transmission of noise from the gearbox to the vehicle body so I'm going to make up some ridged rubber mounts using suspension bushes to hopefully give me the best of both worlds.


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## Coley (Jul 26, 2007)

Working with a front wheel drive, the mounts were already there, so I used them. 
I also added a twist-stop brace or two and would do it again.

It would have been more work, to mount it solid and then change the transaxle mounts to solid also.

The electric motor is much lighter than the original ICE, so they should last a long time (also, no oil dripping on them to soften them up).

But that is just my opine....


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## TimT (Apr 10, 2008)

Great info guys. Thanks. I was considering using some polyurathane inserts like from Energy Suspension or Prothane. And fabing up something. I have some various left over inserts from some of my past cars laying around the garage and was thinking of recycling them .

Tim


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## alisha (Apr 30, 2008)

motor mounts comes into play under heavy launching. Power hopping, or wheel hop, is one of the main problems. Soft motor mounts can act like rubber bands during hard launches.


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