# My EV Project has started!



## Qer (May 7, 2008)

This is exactly why I have to fix my garage before I start to build an EV, weather is a very unconvenient enemy + that here we have winter! It's no fun fixing cars in the winter, if you're not careful you'll get stuck to the metal if your skin is moist and the moist freezes when it touches the metal. Been there, done that, painful to get un-stuck again...

However, fun to see others progress! Cute video too.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

While a garage would be nice, I really don't mind being outside. The rain makes it annoying, and I don't even want to think about snow, but overall it's going great. Tomorrow I plan on pulling the engine as I just finished all the small parts and made sure to keep what I want. I'll be posting my updates and pics later tonight.

Of course it is supposed to rain again tomorrow afternoon, but hopefully my gutting will be done and I can work on the plates inside. Or I can work some more on my controller and get the new and improved prototype all laid out and the code ironed out.


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## ClintK (Apr 27, 2008)

Removing the engine is a ton of fun, but those things sure are heavy! I recommend an engine hoist or you and 3 big friends.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I am at the point where I can take the engine block out, but I need something to do it! I have a winch cable and a come-a-long and a very iffy tree branch. But I think I am going to dig out the swing set and use that. It was built by my dad and can probably take 400 lbs, so this little Civic egg beater shouldn't be a problem.

The only thing left in the car is the engine block and gas tank!


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Engine is out! Coupler should be ready tomorrow and I hope to get the plates all drillled out this weekend. Tomorrow I plan on removing the gas tank and gas lines, which is the last things left.


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## TX_Dj (Jul 25, 2008)

Awesome.

BTW, you have convinced me that I should build an A-Frame (lacking any suitable tree limbs) instead of buy an engine crane, because I already have a manual winch "come-along", and have other things I need to lift besides the ICE (i need to pull the cab so I can repaint the frame).

Keep up the good work, and keep the updates coming!


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

TX_Dj said:


> Awesome.
> 
> BTW, you have convinced me that I should build an A-Frame (lacking any suitable tree limbs) instead of buy an engine crane, because I already have a manual winch "come-along", and have other things I need to lift besides the ICE (i need to pull the cab so I can repaint the frame).
> 
> Keep up the good work, and keep the updates coming!


The A-frame actually worked out really when because when we had the engine about 1/2 out re realized we were off a bit with it, so we picked it up and moved it over to recenter it. (I didn't take into account the lowering of the car, and it shifted quite a bit.


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## xrotaryguy (Jul 26, 2007)

lol, love the engine hoist. Welcome to the temperate rain forest where everything is made of wood... even engine hoists.

Are you sure that you really need to keep your radiator? That's going to be unnecessarily heavy once you've got it full of coolant. I think you'd probably be better off with a small after-market oil/transmission cooler. You can probably pick up a unit that isn't terribly expensive and that works better than the stock unit.

I don't envy your working conditions. Rain sucks.


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## TX_Dj (Jul 25, 2008)

I agree with xrotaryguy. The auto trans cooler integral to radiators is typically nothing more than a little tank inside one of the tank ends of the radiator, and depends on constant flow of coolant running thanks to the water pump on the ICE. There are small-ish air oil coolers available for the $30-60 range that would be far lighter and consume less space in the engine bay.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have been considering a small transmission cooler, but I haven't really looked yet. I do have a liquid cooling heatsink designed for massive IGBT modules that may work for the transmission. I just might have to add a finned heatsink to it. Or if someone knows of an inexpensive cooler for transmissions.


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## TX_Dj (Jul 25, 2008)

There's one that's about $30 brand new, designed to fit in a frame rail, which I don't think your car has, but it looks like it's about as long as a radiator is wide. Now, whether this 2-pass cooler is enough for your transmission or not, I can't tell you- it's designed to be an auxiliary cooler for a vehicle that tows loads. shouldn't be difficult to put a thermocouple on it and monitor its temperature during use, though, and if it gets hotter than you like, another $30 and you can stack a second one in there and still probably be lighter than the radiator when it's empty.


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## TX_Dj (Jul 25, 2008)

Here's a link to the cooler I'm talking about.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEDYDO


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## Telco (Jun 28, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> I have been considering a small transmission cooler, but I haven't really looked yet. I do have a liquid cooling heatsink designed for massive IGBT modules that may work for the transmission. I just might have to add a finned heatsink to it. Or if someone knows of an inexpensive cooler for transmissions.


Summit Racing or Jegs can supply you with one, they sell whatever size you think you need for under 100 bucks, some as low as 50 bucks. Stacked plate style is the most efficient type.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Just an update- I have been working on creating the bracket to hold the 1.5 HP accessories motor, P/S Pump and A/C Compressor. I took the Idling Pulley off the old ICE, and it fit perfectly onto the shaft of the 1.5 HP motor! The accessories motor has a shaft and then a threaded end to it, but the threads are reversed  so I have to find a nut that also has reversed thread and then bolt it down.

I have also bought the material for the rear battery racks and started to plan that out. 

And on Monday I should be getting my coupler! The machine shop e-mail me on Saturday saying it was done, but they closed before I got to me e-mail. Once I get the coupler, I plan on creating the plates this week with my dad and with any luck, I will have the motor installed this weekend or next week!


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## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Any pictures of your acc bracket setup? I'm trying to figure out a way to do that myself.

Ben


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

TelnetManta said:


> Any pictures of your acc bracket setup? I'm trying to figure out a way to do that myself.
> 
> Ben


I don't have pics yet as I am still getting my meaurements, but I should have a template made out of aluminum done today or tomorrow.


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## Tom W (Jun 9, 2008)

Where did you get a 1.5 Hp motor? I think this might be better than using the drive motor. Thanks.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I got it from SurplusCenter.com

I actually got many things there, including my drive motor, back in December when they had a few EV capable motors.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Ok so I have my motor in, rear battery rack painted and drying, and working on the motor mount this afternoon. But here is my problem of the week. Last night I went to do a test spin of the transmission with the car up on jacks, and the left front wheel is stuck! It has been sitting for about a month, so the brakes probably rusted to the rotor, and the wheel also is sticking to the rotor so I can't get it off.

My next attempt to unlock the wheel is going to be pushing the car down the drive way and hope it moves. I did spray penetrating oil on the calipers yesterday, so it might have taken effect.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I did my first limited test drive today! I went up and down the driveway using my Kelly KDH09401 at 60 volts. It was a prelim test to check out the adapter alignement, and it needs a little tweaking. There is a ticking sound coming from the motor/transmission and I believe it to be the bolts on the torque converter hitting the bolts on the motor plate. It must has slipped back slightly, which is something I pretty much expected. It should be a relative easy fix, like a push and then lock it into place. 

Later this week I will be pulling out the electronic setup so I can get to the motor and adapter and see what exactly is going on. Once that is taken care of, I will reassemble for another run and hopefully hit the street.

As for everything else, the automatic transmission seemed to work fine. I will try to log the time is takes for the pressure to build up and then try and see if I can either live with the "lag" or get the Kelly Controller to IDLE the motor. But I have a feeling I won't need to idle it because my tests didn't seem to lag too badly. I was also being VERY easy on the throttle.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

The ticking sound ended up being my coupling. The coupling was supposed to grip the shaft of the motor, but it was not tight enough and broke the key. So now I have to dismantle everything and take the coupling back to the machine shop to have it fixed. I haven't seen the damage yet, but I am hoping its small and easily repairable. 

It's real dissapointing, but things happen. I also have to work on a better control board as plywood isn't great and everything is open to the elements. But the first order of business is repairing the coupler ASAP.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I haven't updated this thread in a while, so here goes:

I have used the K99-4007 for 6 months with decent results. I added a blower and drove it 40 MPH and below with no problem, except for some of the larger hills.

I am now upgrading to a ADC FB1-4001A that found locally for a steal, it was actually a whole lot of EV parts, motor, charger, cables, contactors, DC/DC etc. I couldn't refuse and adding a 9" motor to a Civic will be awesome.

The FB1-4001A and the transmission has been at the machine shop for the past few weeks, but nothing has happened yet because of them being busy. While it's there, I have been working more on the engine compartment. I removed the old Cruise Control unit and working on a real control board with the DC/DC added. I have been extremely busy and haven't worked on the EV in a while, but things should calm down soon enough. 

The automatic transmission has been working fine, and I now have a way to simply increase the RPM shift points thanks to Dimitri! With the adjustments I should be able to use first gear up to 25 MPH, 2nd up to 45, 3rd up to 65 and 4 up to 75. Though, I never plan on taking the EV past 45 MPH.


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## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> Though, I never plan on taking the EV past 45 MPH.


Never say "never" my friend 

Can't wait to see how Civic will go with 9" motor. Although, from my experience you might have to upgrade the controller too...


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

It looks like this weekend I will FINALLY be driving the Civic with a 9" in it! 

I have the new plates completed and there are just a few little things to make up, then I will have to install everything. Probably a good 6 hours of work left, but I am hoping for a Sunday night jaunt to visit the cousins, EV style. Most of the that I hope to complete this week so Saturday is a pure component installation day and not another manufacturing venture.

My controller should be fine for now, since it did a decent job of delivering AMPS to the little K99. (little motor and batteries weren't happy when I floored it!) I think the 96 volt version of the Kelly's hold up better to their ratings than the higher rated ones. I can pull an easy 220 AMPs from the batteries before they cry and the controller still wants to give more.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

Awesome blog! I bow in your general direction! I like your incremental and diy approach.


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## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

SGC,

I see you updated your blog, glad you are finally on the road again.

How's transmission shifting? Did you hook up TPS "trick" ?

20 miles with hills is awesome with your pack. What's the typical amp draw on flat road?

Give us some details, will ya?


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

dimitri said:


> SGC,
> 
> I see you updated your blog, glad you are finally on the road again.
> 
> ...


I did do the TPS "trick" but I found a little snag with it. If I leave the TPS set to where I want it, the shifter will lock itself in place until I set the TPS to 0. So every time I start I have to put the car in Drive and then set the TPS. Not a big deal, but also not something I thought would happen.

The shifting is really entertaining. Since the motor has gobs of torque at low RPMs, the EV rockets forward after each shift, which makes it really fun to show off. When I first tried it out, the motor started to lose torque when it reached 20 MPH in first gear, so I stepped on it, and when it shifted into second I was thrown back in my seat like an roller coaster ride. 

I don't have my AMP meter properly setup yet, but I do have a few data points:
25 MPH Cruising AMPS = 50 AMPs
30 MPH Cruising AMPs = 62 AMPs
40 MPH Cruising AMPS = 97 AMPs

This is the average AMP draw at 96 volts, but not on a completely flat road. This Friday I am hoping to try to get in some long flat roads on the EV's first major voyage (28 Miles round trip, with charging when I get there).

Now for performance, if I leave the EV is D3, it accelerates almost like the original engine and is pretty good. I am still adjusting the TPS, but right now it does 1st until 20 MPH, then 3nd until 32 MPHm then it switched to 3rd. I usually force it to 2nd gear after getting up to speed and cruising 45 MPH or below to best efficiency.


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## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

There must be some actuator that locks the shifter. What if you just disconnect it permanently? Do you need to lock the shifter for any reason?

If I set my TPS too high, then I also get the "boost" when it goes from 1st to 2nd, so I set mine just right to avoid a strong boost, which also happens to be a good level for all other speeds/gears. My TPS signal on OBDII scanner reads 37%. I found this to be optimal for my car.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

dimitri said:


> There must be some actuator that locks the shifter. What if you just disconnect it permanently? Do you need to lock the shifter for any reason?
> 
> If I set my TPS too high, then I also get the "boost" when it goes from 1st to 2nd, so I set mine just right to avoid a strong boost, which also happens to be a good level for all other speeds/gears. My TPS signal on OBDII scanner reads 37%. I found this to be optimal for my car.


The shift locker is part of the PCM and Reverse system. I really don't get it, but if your shift lock doesn't function or you blow a bulb in your reverse lights, the PCM will not allow the transmission to engage. Annoying, but a safety feature. I may make a little PIC with a Digital POT that will activate when the car in taken out of Park to make things easier, but for now this works just fine.

I have found that setting it to 30-40% does lessen the "boost" a lot, but I like to idea of a manual override if I need to stay in 1st for a excessive amount of time for some of these wicked steep driveways and ramps.


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## Nomad (May 8, 2009)

Really Sexy thread. This TPS trick. are you fooling the ODBII? Link? Details? Glad to see you have an Auto, that will give alot of people something to work with.

What are you running for a bat pak?? I looked around on your Blog spot but didn't see anything.


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## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> The shift locker is part of the PCM and Reverse system. I really don't get it, but if your shift lock doesn't function or you blow a bulb in your reverse lights, the PCM will not allow the transmission to engage. Annoying, but a safety feature. I may make a little PIC with a Digital POT that will activate when the car in taken out of Park to make things easier, but for now this works just fine.
> 
> I have found that setting it to 30-40% does lessen the "boost" a lot, but I like to idea of a manual override if I need to stay in 1st for a excessive amount of time for some of these wicked steep driveways and ramps.


I'm sure you can just connect a dummy load, like a relay or resistor in place of actuator, to fool the PCM. But its not as much fun as making a custom PIC to control the TPS value in real time 

Nomad, auto tranny stuff has been covered in "How to do an Auto Tranny EV..." thread in technical forum, look for it.


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## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> I don't have my AMP meter properly setup yet, but I do have a few data points:
> 25 MPH Cruising AMPS = 50 AMPs
> 30 MPH Cruising AMPs = 62 AMPs
> 40 MPH Cruising AMPS = 97 AMPs
> ...


This is pretty impressive for 96V Lead Acid pack. I hope one day you'd put in a higher voltage Lithium pack into that Civic and it will beat original Civic hands down.

I am so glad I followed your lead with Auto tranny, its awesome. Where are those naysayers who said auto was no good in EV, huh???

I think keeping TC is a great idea, it smoothes out high torque from electric motor at low RPMs and allows the motor to run more efficiently at lower amps during acceleration, saving the battery and possibly improving the range.

Congratulations on your upgrade, glad you are back on the road!


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Nomad said:


> Really Sexy thread. This TPS trick. are you fooling the ODBII? Link? Details? Glad to see you have an Auto, that will give alot of people something to work with.
> 
> What are you running for a bat pak?? I looked around on your Blog spot but didn't see anything.


I have a 96 volt battery pack of 8 WalMart MAXX29 12 volt 125 Ah deep cycle batteries. I keep them nice and charged, and I have never taken them below 50% DoD and they have held up quite well.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

dimitri said:


> This is pretty impressive for 96V Lead Acid pack. I hope one day you'd put in a higher voltage Lithium pack into that Civic and it will beat original Civic hands down.
> 
> I am so glad I followed your lead with Auto tranny, its awesome. Where are those naysayers who said auto was no good in EV, huh???
> 
> ...


I really do like the auto, and I have no plans to change that. 

I do want to upgrade to a LiFePO4 pack when the price comes down, and change to a 156 volt controller, but that is a ways off. First I need a better suspension system, so I am considering selling my leftover EV parts to purchase a nice system.

Now I am working on getting a plug at school. I sent off an e-mail last week and then called them yesterday and they said "We will contact you when we have an answer". From that I gathered that they are either working on something, or are stumped at the request for a plug for a car. My dad already has acquired three plugs are his work, so once the charger is built into the EV, he will drive it until I get my own plug.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have posted a quick video of my EV in action in my blog.

Tomorrow I will be removing all my battery cables and checking water levels. Today I noticed one cable was considerably warmer than the others, so I removed it and found a lot of corrosion. I really didn't a good job of cleaning them in the first place so tomorrow they will all get a decent sanding cleanup. I spent about 15 minutes cleaning just one and the resistance improved greatly.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have over 900 miles on my EV, but I am now running into some problems. My brakes are dragging and the other day I experienced low batteries so I had to pull over and let my batteries recover. My brakes are dragging so bad that I takes a lot more power to cruise that it should. 

It normally takes 80 AMPs to cruise at 35 MPH, it was 110 AMPs during my last run. And getting up to speed was a joke, I was pulling 200+ amps trying to get up to 35 MPH and it wasn't happy. I was driving home from school on Tuesday and halfway home i smelled something that I thought was a passing construction truck then my EV dropped from 35 MPH to 25 MPH really fast and I had to push the pedal pretty far to keep up with speed. Not good.

My brakes have not been great since I started the EV project, and there has always been brake scrapping from what I thought was just rust. It turns out my rotors are warped, pads are shot and drums are pretty bad. I have no idea what the calibers are like, but this weekend the EV is getting a full brake job. I can't drive it until the breaks are fixed and that has been real annoying as I love driving it.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

SO quick update:

I replaced all my brakes, rotors, drums and shoes and then my transmission died two days later. The transmission lasted 244,130 miles including over 1,000 EV miles. I have installed a replacement with 104,000 miles on it and should be driving within a week. See "Pop Goes the Tranny" thread.

I also have ordered up a Zilla 1K-LV to replace my teeny weeny Kelly which can't climb the hills on my commute to school for the life of it. The Zilla is due to ship this coming week. 

I have also designed my own BMS for my lead acid pack and have been testing it out for the past 6 weeks. They seem to be working great, but I will be removing them for the winter because I want to upgrade them and at there current settings they do not allot for the temperature compensation of the charger, so they kick in way too early in this cold weather.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Update:

My replacement transmission is a dud. It took my two weeks to install it, and now I have to remove it and return it. I have so many well chosen words it's ridiculous.

My Zilla 1K-LV has arrived and awaiting a new transmission before I install it. I was hoping to install it during Thanksgiving break, but that's when I found my new transmission not engaging and spewing fluid out the rear. Ugh.

I also came across a very interesting find today. Now that my Kelly is getting replaced by the Zilla, I have no need for it and one of my professors offered to trade a Solectria AC24 motor system for it!!!!!! On Monday I get to see the goods, and it might even come with a controller, if he can find all the pieces. There is a story to the whole thing, but that's for another day.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

I'd be interested in details on the lead acid bms if available?


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

jackbauer said:


> I'd be interested in details on the lead acid bms if available?


I'll have to write up something when I get the time, but basically it will work on any 5-20 volt battery supply, will shunt up to 1.16 AMPs currently, and uses a PIC processor to determine the basic State of Charge on the battery and when to shunt the battery to limit overcharge. It is programmable, but I will be completely redoing the software this winter break for a more efficient code structure, going from Basic to C++.

First things first, get the transmission replaced and the Zilla in!!!


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Another update:

My transmission is in and so is the Zilla! I was experiencing some interesting problems with my shift adjustments and my idle that I am working on. I fixed the Idle control (it was a loose solder) and I am breaking in the batteries again. I do have another thread on the Zilla performance (which is AMAZING!) but I haven't done a lot of driving until I break in the batteries. 

I have been doing a lot of little driving, 1-4 miles round trip, but I have to be careful because I have been punching the Zilla more than my batteries should handle on the moment. 

I have found a new way to break in the batteries, just leave the EV on to idle! It takes about 7-8 AMPs to idle from the batteries, so it does take a while to drain them a bit, only to about 75% State of Charge, and then charge them back up at 13 AMPs. I plan on putting on as many cycles as possible on the EV during my winter break before I go on any crazy and long drives. I also need to get working on installing the heat.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have been working on my heat and after testing out a Ceramic heater core at 96 volts, decided to go with a water heater setup. I have purchases a Kats 1500 watt heater and a water pump. I still need to get all the plumbing and fittings, but it should be better than the ceramic setup.

I also purchased a new suspension system, Skunk2 Racing coilover setup. I will begin installing today, starting with just the rear. I am due for an inspection this month, so I would like to get the rear suspension installed and the car all leveled out before that. The front suspension may wait until the spring, unless the rear installation proved fast and easy.

I have been putting a small amount of EV miles in this past few weeks, but I need more. I want at least another 60 EV miles before I attempt going 55 MPH and any serious inclines. I have a test route, 3.8 miles long, that has lots of stop and go, 1.5 miles of 35 MPH and decent inclines. I have run this route a few times already, and each time my Estimated range from the SOC from the Paktrakr increases.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have been collecting lots of Data regarding my WH/Mile me EV uses. I found that with the Kelly I was averaging 333 Wh/Mi during my test routes and daily runs. Then with the Zilla, that number had decreased to about 312 Wh/Mi and I was quite happy. 

Then I installed my new Skunk2 suspension system and took the EV out again twice today to confirm my results. My EV is now averaging 270 Wh/Mi doing the same test runs! I knew my rear wheels were creating drag, but I didn't think it was THAT much! For reference, the Kelly data was taken in the Fall with in about 55-65F weather and this new data has been taken in 25-40F weather. I also keep my front tires at 36 PSI and rear at 38 PSI. I also did not baby any of the drives, I tried to drive as "normal" as possible. I wonder what I could achieve with EV-friendly driving.

Basically, upgrading to the Zilla and the new suspension *appears* to have a net efficiency increase of 19%, or about 4 more miles of cruising. I will be taking a lot more data to verify this during the next few weeks, and hopefully I can make some sort of a write up of my findings.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I am almost done with the water heater for the cabin, tomorrow I should be getting the last components for the electrical and plumbing. I am making a valve attachment that will allow me to fill up the water heater system and have access for easy maintenance. I will make making a decent posting on my water heater setup once it is completed, I don't want to leave anything out.

I have also ordered up Farnam Battery Heater Pads from KTA to heat my batteries before my morning drive. I haven't been able to drive my EV to school because the batteries are too cold, and there is no cabin heat, all things I hope to fix in the coming weeks. I need my batteries to be at least 67F, 70F+ would be ideal.

I now have over 100 miles and 5 cycles on the Zilla setup, and my best efficiency run for my 4.8 mile test route was 267 WH/Mi with the batteries at 50F. It was a somewhat warm day, and the insulation helped. It has been soo cold the past week that I haven't done any EV driving, but this week seems a little warmer, so more testing and breaking in the batteries is underway.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have installed the Farnam heater pads, and what a difference! I can keep them upwards of 75-80F, and I did a few test runs yesterday with my biggest EV grin yet. It was actually accompanied by an EVil EV Laugh as I got to test the full performance of my Zilla 1K-LV while going up the largest hill around. With my Kelly I could barely get up it at walking speeds, maybe 5 MPH if I got a running start of 45 MPH, but with my Zilla I was pulling 265 battery AMPs and holding at 30 MPH!

Of course I found a problem with my temperature control circuit I made for the battery heaters. The circuit shutdown when the voltage regular gets below freezing! What good is that!?!?! I thought I was using an LM7805CT which is rated for use from -40C to 125C, but instead it was an LM7805C, which is rated for a measly 0C to 70C! When I woke up this morning my batteries were down to 63F, where last night they were at 80F. What happens is that the batteries get warmed up to about 75-80F, then the heaters shutdown until the box reaches 71F. However, that took probably 4 hours to cool down that far, so the electronics were all freezing by them. So what I did was open up the circuit and poked at it with my volt meter, then just placed my finger on the LM7805C and within 5 seconds it all started up again, keeping the LM7805C hot at 42F. So now it's a going to be a Mouser order for proper LM7805CTs.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have been really busy recently breaking in my batteries, going on drives one or two times a day for 12+ miles each time. I have been babying two very stubborn batteries that were sagging below 10 volts at 4 miles, and then after some work they were fine until 8 miles, now I can go 12.9 miles without any problems, and increasing each time I drive. I am hoping that at the end of the next two weeks I will have the 17 miles of reliable range I need to travel to school.

I have also repaired the problem with the voltage regulator on my battery heaters, and the temperature has been increasing nicely over the past week. I still need the battery warmers at night, but during the day I have not needed to heat my EV at all. I have spent my EV time actually driving it instead of working on my heater, but break is coming up next week so things might actually happen. 

On another note, my charging extension cord bought the farm yesterday. It was a 12/3 50 ft 15 AMP cable that just couldn't handle the 12 AMPs I was punching through it. It can handle 10 AMPs fine, which is what I use to charge anywhere else but at home. Now I am using my Dad's 10/3 heavy duty 15 AMP cable that barely plugs into my EV, but allows the current to flow nicely.


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## Dave Koller (Nov 15, 2008)

David 
Just lurking and thought i would get on this thread to keep a better eye on all your progress.. (Now Ii will get emails LOL)

Weather has been in 50's here .. Great for this neck of the woods! Looks like things are working with the warmers - HA we won't need them soon !!

Tested my board all works!! Now I need to figure out what voice to use - Hal9000 would be nice -- but Most of the good ones have too much background of the spaceship!

"You can"t do that Dave" perfect for us Dave's ----

Might synthesize something - my voice is "Not gonna do it" - it was ok for test but _____ 

I do voices for some of my robots but tweak them to high or low LOL...
hmmm will see how that sounds......

Keep up the reports...


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## Dave Koller (Nov 15, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> I will be completely redoing the software this winter break for a more efficient code structure, going from Basic to C++.


forgot to ask what program you use for the pic for C++?


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Dave Koller said:


> forgot to ask what program you use for the pic for C++?


I am currently using HI-C that came with my PICKit 3. So far it seems pretty straight forward, but obviously way more complex than the BASIC I was using before, so now I have to read through the PIC data sheets and gather information on all the registers before I really can get started.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have been driving the EV around town quite a bit, but I have been driving a max of 12-13 miles due to two low batteries. Well, according to the PakTrakr, they are low. 

I have been testing batteries, swapping PakTrakr remotes, equalizing, etc to try and see if I can fix these low batteries. This afternoon I was towards the end of the charge cycle after a 9 mile run, checking the voltages through the PakTrakr when I checked the Temp for the heck of it, and it was 104F! That was 3 hours after driving! I had the remote ontop of the cable, which got roasty and has 9 times the resistance of the other cables. So I swapped it out with another and did a small 3.7 mile run and did see an improvement, but I need to do another 12-13 mile run to really see if anything has changed.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I did swap the remotes and did find a little improvement, but I am going ahead with a battery upgrade to 8 volters. What I have found is that if I draw more than 218 AMPs during acceleration and cruise higher than 85 AMPs I only get 12-13 miles of range out of my current pack before the two oldest batteries give in. 

I did find that if I set my Zilla to 220 AMPs max and I took it slow like I did with my Kelly, I could get the 16-17 miles, but the performance really stunk and hills were pathetic. This renders the entire point of the Zilla, so I need larger capacity batteries.

I designed up the new battery rack and got the material ready. My dad is trying to find a welder this week and if he can't I have a few options that I will try. Once I get the rack welded I will paint it up then purchase the batteries, probably from Sam's Club unless I get some really good quotes from the dealers I contacted.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have my rack all welded and painted, and my batteries (8VGC XC) are arriving this week. I do have to make new cables because the new batteries do not have SAE Automotive posts on them, but the threads. My current pack has both, and some of my cables use the SAE post and some use the threaded lugs. Also, these new batteries have the posts a lot closer to each other, so they need to be shortened. I also need more cables and one ones I have, have about 10 years of corrosion on them and need to be re-lugged anyways.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Tomorrow I will be removing my MAXX29 battery pack and installing the new rack. I was also going to build my bracket for power steering as I now have the parts, minus the belt. Well, I can't find my power steering motor! Last month I was working on it, then the basement flooded and everything got thrown around to get it out of the water I misplaced it! 

My power steering motor also had my pully on it, so I really need to find it.


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## Dave Koller (Nov 15, 2008)

Rolling along David - hope you find the motor!!

Did you have any acid spills that you noticed when you took out the Max29's?

Reason I asked was I looked at Atzi's Saturn as he removed his 8 volt LA batteries and it looks like it was corrosive on his battery box framework :

http://www.saturn.offical.net/node/391

He might have had some boil-over ....

He is going to replace with LiFePo4....


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Dave Koller said:


> Rolling along David - hope you find the motor!!
> 
> Did you have any acid spills that you noticed when you took out the Max29's?
> 
> ...


I did not find any evidence of acid spills. There was a little acid corrosion on one of the terminals, but nothing I didn't expect. All my batteries have been removed and I will fully charge them again with the smart charger. I am cleaning out my trunk (lots of junk) and I even found two full rolls of electrical tape under the racks....

I have placed my new tray in the EV, but I haven't mounted it yet. My dad will help out as he wants to change a few things up for more strength. 

Oh, and my US8VGC XC should be here within 30 minutes!


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

My batteries arrived yesterday! I didn't get anything done yesterday after my batteries arrived, other things go in the way. 

But today I was able to cut and crimp all my cables and get the rack installed. The cables took a few hours and my homemade crimping block worked great. The crimps appear solid and have minimal resistance and they are all about the same in that aspect. I have to one more lug to crimp, but it will have to wait until tomorrow.

I estimate I need another two hours to get the batteries in. I need to cut the floor for the batteries to rest on for more support then comes placing them in, strapping the them in and wire them up. I want to finish up tonight, but it got dark and the bugs came out so I called it a day!


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have installed the US 8VGC XC and have about 100 miles on them so far. I have a list of things to do on my EV before I am satisfied for daily commuting, such as finishing the front suspension, extra strappings on the batteries and installing a check valve on the vacuum pump.

I also had to send my Zilla 1K-LV to Cafe Electric to get a software update. I was going to do it a few months ago, but I was still doing a lot of EV testing and I didn't want to give it up. I am finishing up finals this week, so I decided it was a good time to send it for the updates and this weekend I can finish up my suspension and other things.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Well, my EV is like 95% done! That last 5% is the heating and power steering, but I don't need that for summer driving! 

Today I officially start commuting in my EV! Yesterday I drove 17.1 miles just to make sure I could make it, and I didn't suffer any performance loss in that drive! I usually start losing power after 12 miles, but I was still ripping at 40 MPH at that point, all the way home!


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Congrats!
Can't wait til i am in the same boat, will probably be next Summer though.
Unless i get lucky and have something drivable by the end of this one.


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## Travdude (May 11, 2009)

Congratulations, feels good to drive it huh?

What update does your Zilla need? Is it an older model?


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Travdude said:


> Congratulations, feels good to drive it huh?
> 
> What update does your Zilla need? Is it an older model?


It did feel great! I did get this cranky guy in a Ford F250 riding my rear, so my accelerations were not EV friendly. I was punching it each time (260+ AMPs) just to keep the gas guzzling, late-for-work guy happy. I definitely need to relearn how to drive EV style all over again. I was able to maintain the speed limits with ease, but it did take some time to get up to 45 MPH and not abuse my batteries. My PakTakr said I had 17% left after 16.8 miles, but the battery voltage said I had a little over 50% left. 

My Zilla was not an older model, it was from the first batch of Z1K-LV back in October 2009. There was a piece of fail safe coding that would shut off the controller if it didn't see an OFF Pulse every 1000 pulses and it didn't see one at full duty cycle, so it shut down. I found the bug back in November, and was told that I could send it in anytime, I was just too lazy until recently.


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## Dave Koller (Nov 15, 2008)

Nice one David !!!!!


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have nearly 2,000 miles on my conversion and have three gas free commuting weeks! I have also watered a few cells because they all weren't level to begin with. This weekend I will be going through the EV checking all my cables, bolts and water levels before I do the recommended equalization charge.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have cleared 2,200 miles of commuting and over 4 solid weeks of EV driving. I am estimating about 30 miles to 80% DoD but I haven't needed to drive further than 17 miles before charging. 

I only had one frustration. On the day of my amazing 2,000 mile mark some dimwit blew the breakers on the exterior of the building I charge at and didn't bother to fix them or tell anyone. I usually finish charging about 1:30 and leave around 2-3PM to avoid the evil traffic. I went out at 1:30 to unplug and found that I only had an hour of charging! I found another working plug and charged the EV until 6:00 when I went off to challenge the traffic and it did well.

This prompted me to start prototyping a new toy. I have been wanting to build a more accurate EV State of Charge meter to calculate KWh used instead of voltage drop to determine proper range estimates. After my charging incident I decided to add an extra feature to it, WiFi connection. I am waiting to the WiFi adapter to come in the mail and start to read through all the Microchips App Notes on UART/SPI and the TCP/IP stacks.


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## Dave Koller (Nov 15, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> I
> 
> This prompted me to start prototyping a new toy. I have been wanting to build a more accurate EV State of Charge meter to calculate KWh used instead of voltage drop to determine proper range estimates. After my charging incident I decided to add an extra feature to it, WiFi connection. I am waiting to the WiFi adapter to come in the mail and start to read through all the Microchips App Notes on UART/SPI and the TCP/IP stacks.


Nice, you have seen Dimitri's meter thread right? http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/dc-wh-meter-44227.html

But I like the WIFI part - so keep me informed as my new PCM will have that for info... Like to see how you do it !


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have been away on vacation for a while, but I have managed to rack up 6 weeks of solid EV commuting, installed my small DC/DC and have been enjoying my EV.

I should be nearing 2500 miles by the end of the week and hope to have many more. However, I have started to find some issues with the Civic itself, mainly electrical wiring for the doors. I will try and sort them out, but I will not be buying any replacement parts for them. I have priced the replacement outs and it would be about the same price to buy a shiny new 2001 or 2002 Civic, and in a year or so that might be a way to go. I only paid $600 for my current donor and all that was paid back within the 8 months my Dad drove it as an ICE in gas savings, and at least that much in my EV commuting.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

So I have been away for a while having quite an adventure, but yesterday was a very interesting day for me. For the past week people have been blowing my breaker, so I usually have to move to another plug and wait the extra few hours. Well, I was so busy working that I didn't do my usual lunch time check and when I went out to leave at 4 PM and my EV had charged for a whooping 15 minutes. 

So at this point the pack had 16.6 miles on it, then I drove to my dad's work 6.6 miles away and charged for 3.5 hours, before going the rest of the way home. I had put 37.2 miles on the pack with only a 3.5 hours charge! And there was no power loss, and about 40% of the pack left when I got home.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Thank god I drive an EV!

I have nearly 2,800 miles on the conversion and today was the first full day of classes. Parking was chaos for all those gas guzzlers, having 1,000+ more cars than parking spots! I literally spent 30 minutes in backed up traffic going onto the campus parking lots, and the lot I park in had the FULL sign active. Well, my ID still lets me in! I don't count towards the parking quota, so I just opened the gate and went to my happy EV spot!

There are about 400 less parking spots than last year (and a lot more commuters and residents w/cars), so these next few years are going to be parking hell, so I have to do everything I can to keep the EV going! I am finally getting serious on installing my water heater, hopefully I will get the control circuit picked out with temperature limits and safety systems to keep from boiling out.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I just cleared 3,000 miles!

I am now working on my heater control board, hoping to have it done either tonight or tomorrow. I still need to find a 15 PSI relief valve for the fluid setup, but I have everything else. 

Today I had planned on checking the ATF, removing my batteries to check on my heating pads, top off the water, check tire PSI, etc, because I have been noticing a rather large increase in power consumption and little flakes of dust where my battery heaters are.

Well, I didn't get past checking the ATF. I was 1.3 quarts low! I didn't some research and it appears that my transmission holds more ATF than the manual and service guide says it does. I noticed a major improvement right away after adding less than a quart, and tomorrow I will see what the full ATF fill works like.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Every time I go to work on my heater, something else gets me. Now I have to replace my tires after running over at least one, maybe two nails. On my way home Friday I had 4 miles to go when I passed a Comcast truck working on new poles and my car seemed to take more power than usual to drive up the last few hills. I decided it was just the rain messing with my efficiency, but once I got home I found my right rear tire looking very low. Pumped it up, went to watch shows and came out to plug in the car for the night and it was nice and flat. 

The mechanic said the tire was not repairable (and it had dry rot, d'oh!) so I need a new set. Tomorrow I am putting my EV on blocks and driving down to Sears to get a new set of tires.

Maybe some day I will get to the heater...


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Well, I now have over 4,000 EV miles and I am finally getting to the heater. I have all the plumbing done, I just need to get two relays and some anti-freeze and I will good to go installing it on Saturday. 

By this time last year my EV was parked because it became too cold to drive it, the transmission blew and my Zilla was still being built. Now I just need my heater installed, and it will be an all season EV! 

Temps have been in the 30s-40Fs at night and 40-50Fs during the day, but the batteries are happy with their insulation, just I am not.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Now I finally have heat in my EV! I am using a KATs 1500 watt heater, a 12 volt RV hot water pump and running it off my 96 volt battery pack. I can get up to 85 F in about 2 minutes, but my relief valve goes at that point (15 PSI). I found that I need to get an expansion tank to deal with the pressure better. The Civic heater setup runs at 15 PSI, but has the expansion tank to deal with higher pressure (60 PSI). My pump will shut down at 35 PSI, but that has not happened yet, but my pressure is somewhere between 15 PSI and 35 PSI, and an expansion tank should fix that. 

The setup only draws about 9 AMPs @ 96 volts, so it's a far cry from the 1500 watt rating, but it seems to be getting hot and warms up the cabin. Of course it's like 60F out today, so I don't need the heat yet, but in two or three weeks, the snow will be here.


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## rwaudio (May 22, 2008)

I'm glad to hear your Kats 1500w heater is working well, I'll be using a pair of them in my car. (I'm in Canada and it's -20F right now so I thought two was a good idea) good info on the expansion tank, I was trying to decide how to configure the system and now I'll be using an expansion tank and not just a relief valve. Hopefully I don't over power the heaters I'll have them in series off of my 288v pack. I guess if the current draw is too high when I test it I'll have to get a 3rd to drop the voltage/power to each one.

I look forward to hearing how well it works when you get some cold temperatures.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have done a few trials with the heat, and higher voltage would be much better. The heater will defrost the windshield, and slowly warm up the cab, but it takes about 15 minutes to get any real heat out of it. It's only ~900 watts of heat, but so far it makes me comfortable in the 28F drives. 

Also, I have been running my heat with my fans on full. This week I am going to try them on low to see if I can get more heat faster. The heater is basically a liquid cooling system, and if I cool the water too fast, it takes longer to heat up. But so far I am happy, and the real test will be when the snow comes.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

So far my EV has been treating me pretty well, but on those cold 10-18F days the heater just barely keeps the windshield defrosted. I have not been to daring to drive it during a snow storm yet, I am afraid that the heater won't keep up enough. I am going to try and insulate the heater tubing, heater element and coolant tank to keep as much heat in as possible. 

I also have been experiencing a problem with my 12 volt Thomas vacuum pump. It just doesn't give more than 15" HG, which really isn't enough for the way I drive. I did some research and picked up a VW/Audi Vacuum Pump from eBay this morning and it's supposed to pull 27" HG in a few seconds, and be a lot quieter than the aircraft carrier I am using now.

I have well over 5,000 miles on my EV now, (4,000 on this pack) and I am hoping to get at least 10,000 miles from this pack. I am in the process of planning another Civic, this time a Generation 7 (2001-2005 model years) and I will be using most of my current Civic parts, but a higher voltage system. It will use lithium batteries, probably TS cells and I hope to build it either the end of this summer or next year depending on my funds and when my lead pack is no longer useful. I also picked up a Kilovac EV200 contactor to use for the new Civic, I got a price I just couldn't refuse.


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## Jimdear2 (Oct 12, 2008)

SGC,

Just some thoughts off the top of my head for your heater. 

Do you have an 12 to 110 volt inverter that would handle that 1500 watt heater. Go from your accessory battery to the inverter to the heater and see if the extra voltage helps you find that 500 or so watts of heat. If that does it then you have a couple of paths. Beef up the 12 volt system to handle the load and perm install the inverter. Or you could find a 96 volt to 120 volt DC to DC.

Can't see how you could go wrong by insulating the heating system. The gerbil living under the hood really doesn't need it. Running in that wheel keeps him warm enough.

If you go the inverter route then you might be able to engineer in a preheating set up to run the heater and blower off the mains on a timer and have a toasty car in the morning.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Wow, you just gave me an idea on making a DC/DC step up converter! If I can jump up to 120 or 144 volts, that should do it! HHmmm time to start designing a 2,000 watt 96 volt to 144 volt boost converter for my heater.


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## Jimdear2 (Oct 12, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> Wow, you just gave me an idea on making a DC/DC step up converter! If I can jump up to 120 or 144 volts, that should do it! HHmmm time to start designing a 2,000 watt 96 volt to 144 volt boost converter for my heater.


SGC,

Hope I helped.

Hope i works.

Post the results.

Jim


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I have been driving my EV on and off for the past couple months due to crappy weather. Now I am getting is going again for commuting and I have found two low batteries. 

I am now re-breaking in the batteries and driving with low AMPS and short distances, then when I return I put the low batteries on individual chargers for a few hours to bring them up, then I charge the whole pack up again. the low batteries are about 0.3 volts under the rest while under 75 A load, which is a huge difference. So far I have brought them up from a cranky 3.3 miles to nearly 9 miles, so I have hope.

I do have lithium on the future plans, possibly along with a new Civic chassis.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Well it's been awhile and I have been driving my Civic EV up until this week. I have put over 6500 miles on it and the main brake lines decide to rust out. The repair cost is $850 for the lines and there is a good chance that other brake parts need replacing once the lines get touched.

So I have decided to retire this Civic. For the cost of repair I can put that money towards a new donor. I started my search for a new Civic this week and right now I got my eye on a 2004 Civic VP 2 door coupe, we'll see how things go but I should have a new EV all done by September and the start of the new semester.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Wow, its been a while, time for an update.

The Civic is getting retired tomorrow. The battery pack is now dead and I'm been thinking about doing a full rebuild anyways. I got a little over 7,000 miles before having problems with the brake lines, then DC/DC died, then batteries got toasted by a charger problem. Lightning struck 20 feet from my EV while it was plugged in so that may have done most of the damage.

I now have a 2001 Civic EX that I will be converting soon, so the deconstruction of the 1996 Civic is my first step. I'll be starting a new thread soon on the new build.


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