# [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Paul, typical set-screw position is on the key and a second one at 90' 
relative to the first one.

Most of the listers will recommend a taperlock bushing; it depends on what 
you are planning to do with the vehicle. Racing? Taperlock for sure! Street 
commute? A taperlock isn't necessary, a lovejoy or a chain-drive coupling 
will work just fine.

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [email protected]
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:46 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub


> First:
> I am looking for opinions on the merits of a set screw motor adapter
> hub vs. taper locking type motor shaft adapter. I have been advised
> by one well respected list member than a set screw hub is a better.
> Most list advise leans the other way.
>
> One thing about the set screw hubs is that I have never seen a torque
> rating for them. The Dodge-PT web site gives torque data for
> Taperlock and QD style taper locking shaft adapters. I have used a
> set screw hub in the past, on my second EV, and it seems to still be
> in service without issue. That design was more or less the standard
> in 2000. My first EV used a Ruland shaft coupler, a design different
> from either but less appropriate for an EV that is retaining the clutch.
>
> Second:
> If I choose a set screw motor shaft coupler what is the best position
> for the set screws? If the key is at the 12 o'clock position and the
> shaft rotates counter clockwise shaft end it seems to me that the
> best position for the set screws would be at about the 5 o'clock
> position. My logic is to pull against the key side, with the
> direction of rotation being the most forcefully clamped edge. I might
> be completely wrong so I'd like advice on that option.
>
>
> My motor adapter is being built from scratch for an unusual
> application. The shaft adapter will extend 2 inches past the end of
> the motor shaft. I can't really change that unless I make a 3/4 inch
> hole in center of the motor shaft (to put the pilot bushing there,
> but also run a high risk of splitting the 1-1/8 inch motor shaft
> under the key.)
>
> If I chose to go taper the likely choice would be an SH series Dodge-
> PT QD bushing. It will be holding 1.31 inches (the length of the
> taper bushing) of the end of the motor shaft (and rated for 3500 in/
> lb. of torque.)
>
> A set screw hub would extend over 1.75 inches of motor shaft and be
> held in place by the key and set screws at the "best" locations (to
> the extent I can determine the best locations.)
>
> Recommendations and advice is welcome!
>
> Paul Gooch
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
>
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>
> 

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----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

HI- Paul, Most power transmission manufacturers a location over the key and
a second one 90 degrees away.
Some companies used 120 degrees in the past,but don't go more than that.
The idea is to create force agianst
the greatest amount of surface area possible opposite the set screws. 180
degrees will cause the coupling to
work louse.
hope this helps FT.


> [Original Message]
> From: Paul <[email protected]>
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
> Date: 11/20/2007 6:44:15 PM
> Subject: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub
>
> First:
> I am looking for opinions on the merits of a set screw motor adapter 
> hub vs. taper locking type motor shaft adapter. I have been advised 
> by one well respected list member than a set screw hub is a better. 
> Most list advise leans the other way.
>
> One thing about the set screw hubs is that I have never seen a torque 
> rating for them. The Dodge-PT web site gives torque data for 
> Taperlock and QD style taper locking shaft adapters. I have used a 
> set screw hub in the past, on my second EV, and it seems to still be 
> in service without issue. That design was more or less the standard 
> in 2000. My first EV used a Ruland shaft coupler, a design different 
> from either but less appropriate for an EV that is retaining the clutch.
>
> Second:
> If I choose a set screw motor shaft coupler what is the best position 
> for the set screws? If the key is at the 12 o'clock position and the 
> shaft rotates counter clockwise shaft end it seems to me that the 
> best position for the set screws would be at about the 5 o'clock 
> position. My logic is to pull against the key side, with the 
> direction of rotation being the most forcefully clamped edge. I might 
> be completely wrong so I'd like advice on that option.
>
>
> My motor adapter is being built from scratch for an unusual 
> application. The shaft adapter will extend 2 inches past the end of 
> the motor shaft. I can't really change that unless I make a 3/4 inch 
> hole in center of the motor shaft (to put the pilot bushing there, 
> but also run a high risk of splitting the 1-1/8 inch motor shaft 
> under the key.)
>
> If I chose to go taper the likely choice would be an SH series Dodge- 
> PT QD bushing. It will be holding 1.31 inches (the length of the 
> taper bushing) of the end of the motor shaft (and rated for 3500 in/ 
> lb. of torque.)
>
> A set screw hub would extend over 1.75 inches of motor shaft and be 
> held in place by the key and set screws at the "best" locations (to 
> the extent I can determine the best locations.)
>
> Recommendations and advice is welcome!
>
> Paul Gooch
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev



_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Thank you Joe and Father Time. I think I have the general idea behind 
the set screw hub. The force is being placed more or less opposite 
the key and any tendency to be able to rock or fret is being eliminated.

How much torque can a set screw hub (with set screws on the key and 
90 degrees away) really handle? I plan to slap about 160 ft/lb of 
torque out of the motor (1000 amps into an ADC 8 inch.) I've found 
only one source (Grainger) that provided a torque rating for a 1.125 
inch diameter set screw hub. They only list them as good to 1200 in/lb!

Grainger also provides the torque rating for Ruland one piece clamp 
style shaft couplers for a 1.125 inch shaft. (this style of coupler 
is what I use in the EV Buggy, its a round sleeve split down one side 
with 4 small screws trying to close that gap around the shaft) This 
coupler is rated for 4400 in/lb, for both the version with the key 
and the version without the key! <http://www.ruland.com/ 
ps_couplings_rigid_clc.asp> to see what I'm talking about.

Full torque without a key? That scares me but if its a sound idea 
perhaps I could make the required motor adapter using one. The 
flywheel hub will have a 13/16th inch hole down the center for the 
pilot bushing. The adapter will extend past the end of the motor 
shaft 2 inches. Since its hanging a fair bit I need good centering. 
This is the part that concerns me with a Dodge-PT QD style taper 
bushing (it grabs a lot less motor shaft, and wobble issues and not 
unknown with a taper bushing.)

Thanks for all your help,
Paul Gooch



> [email protected] wrote:
> 
> > HI- Paul, Most power transmission manufacturers a location over the
> > key and
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hello Paul,

One thing I forgot to mention about the QD taper lock bushing is after I had 
the machinist install a taper in the coupler to accept the taper lock 
bushing is have him place the bushing over the same size shaft that the 
motor shaft is. He then torques the set screws to the recommended torque 
and place it into a CNC machine to see how every thing is center.

He then checks one position, and then turns the bushing to another position 
to see how it's centers to the same reference of the first position. He 
then checks each position to see which position the of the bushing should be 
place in the coupler. He then marks that position with a punch, so when I 
assembly the coupler on my motor shaft it is the in best centering position.

We are talking center line positions that may range from 0.001 to 0.0001 if 
a inch.

As for the set screw coupler that was made by GE and came assembly on my 
motor ran from 1976 to 1985 with no problem. The problem was is in getting 
it off. Had to use a large locking type wheel puller and try a 3/4 inch 
socket on a long breaker bar. No luck, it did not even began to budge.

I had to get a large reverse air impact wrench and it started to barely to 
come off and finally a load explosion that blast me back and it then started 
to move.

This coupler has a harden liner with a brass liner that is in contact with 
the motor shaft. It shave off the a layer of brass when it was take off. I 
found that the brass liner was machine for about 0.0001 under for a extreme 
press fit. I had to take this coupler to a machine shop and had it reline 
with a brass coating that they spray on hot and than is machine for a 
extreme press fit.

To install this coupler, I had to place the whole motor in a 20 ton press 
which press on both ends of the double end motor shaft. The machine shop 
had to made up brass protectors to put over the pilot shaft and one on the 
coupler.

The coupler has four hex head set screws place at 90 degrees apart around 
the coupler. Each is torque in a sequence tighten one at 0 degrees then the 
other at 180 degrees, the next at 270 and the one on the key at 90 degrees 
in 5 ft lb increments.

Each set screw extends from the motor shaft at the same distance. The one on 
the key is shorter because the 5/15 key would raise it up to high.

The key is not a standard key. I find the standard key is too soft and 
after the first 10 years it was worn some. The machinist gave me a piece of 
5/16 inch tool steel that lathe tools are made out of.

In 2002, I had to go through the whole procedure to remove the coupler, but 
this time, the key was still perfect, still have very sharp edges and I had 
a hell of a time to remove it from the motor shaft.

Yes, you can use a key shaft if its done right.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" 
<[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub


> Thank you Joe and Father Time. I think I have the general idea behind
> the set screw hub. The force is being placed more or less opposite
> the key and any tendency to be able to rock or fret is being eliminated.
>
> How much torque can a set screw hub (with set screws on the key and
> 90 degrees away) really handle? I plan to slap about 160 ft/lb of
> torque out of the motor (1000 amps into an ADC 8 inch.) I've found
> only one source (Grainger) that provided a torque rating for a 1.125
> inch diameter set screw hub. They only list them as good to 1200 in/lb!
>
> Grainger also provides the torque rating for Ruland one piece clamp
> style shaft couplers for a 1.125 inch shaft. (this style of coupler
> is what I use in the EV Buggy, its a round sleeve split down one side
> with 4 small screws trying to close that gap around the shaft) This
> coupler is rated for 4400 in/lb, for both the version with the key
> and the version without the key! <http://www.ruland.com/
> ps_couplings_rigid_clc.asp> to see what I'm talking about.
>
> Full torque without a key? That scares me but if its a sound idea
> perhaps I could make the required motor adapter using one. The
> flywheel hub will have a 13/16th inch hole down the center for the
> pilot bushing. The adapter will extend past the end of the motor
> shaft 2 inches. Since its hanging a fair bit I need good centering.
> This is the part that concerns me with a Dodge-PT QD style taper
> bushing (it grabs a lot less motor shaft, and wobble issues and not
> unknown with a taper bushing.)
>
> Thanks for all your help,
> Paul Gooch
>
>


> [email protected] wrote:
> >
> > > HI- Paul, Most power transmission manufacturers a location over the
> > > key and
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Paul, the torque is taken through the keyway on both types of hubs. 
The setscrews just lock it in place on the shaft to keep it from moving
along the shaft lengthways, they don't transmit the torque. Taper
locks develop a lot of friction, because they grip all around the
circumference. In fact, they develop so much more friction than just a
couple of setscrews, that they have developed "keyless" taper locks
that transmit torque entirely through the friction that they develop on
the shaft, but all the hubs for ADC/WarP motors I have seen all have
keys.

A single key can transmit a LOT of torgue. As a completely ficticious
example, mild steel has a shear strength of about 0.6 * 60000 = 36000
psi. The torque is taken as shear across the area. For a 1/4" key 1"
long, this could take 36000 * 1 * 0.25 = 9000 lb. For a 1" dia. shaft,
this means 9000 * 1 / 2 = 4500 in-lb. of torque (375 ft-lb). And most
keys are made from stronger stuff than mild steel. This is why you
rarely see a key fail unless there is also a misalignment between two
parts involved.


--- Paul <[email protected]> wrote:

> Thank you Joe and Father Time. I think I have the general idea behind
> 
> the set screw hub. The force is being placed more or less opposite 
> the key and any tendency to be able to rock or fret is being
> eliminated.
> 
> How much torque can a set screw hub (with set screws on the key and 
> 90 degrees away) really handle? I plan to slap about 160 ft/lb of 
> torque out of the motor (1000 amps into an ADC 8 inch.) I've found 
> only one source (Grainger) that provided a torque rating for a 1.125 
> 
> inch diameter set screw hub. They only list them as good to 1200
> in/lb!
> 
> Grainger also provides the torque rating for Ruland one piece clamp 
> style shaft couplers for a 1.125 inch shaft. (this style of coupler 
> is what I use in the EV Buggy, its a round sleeve split down one side
> 
> with 4 small screws trying to close that gap around the shaft) This 
> coupler is rated for 4400 in/lb, for both the version with the key 
> and the version without the key! <http://www.ruland.com/ 
> ps_couplings_rigid_clc.asp> to see what I'm talking about.
> 
> Full torque without a key? That scares me but if its a sound idea 
> perhaps I could make the required motor adapter using one. The 
> flywheel hub will have a 13/16th inch hole down the center for the 
> pilot bushing. The adapter will extend past the end of the motor 
> shaft 2 inches. Since its hanging a fair bit I need good centering. 
> This is the part that concerns me with a Dodge-PT QD style taper 
> bushing (it grabs a lot less motor shaft, and wobble issues and not 
> unknown with a taper bushing.)
> 
> Thanks for all your help,
> Paul Gooch
> 
>


> [email protected] wrote:
> >
> > > HI- Paul, Most power transmission manufacturers a location over the
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I can provide some real life experience for set screw and keyed hubs. On our 
old set up in the "Maniac Mazda" with an interference fit we had a machined 
hub that you had to pound on. The key, when we removed was shifted almost 
50%. In other words it was almost twisted off. This was with one of Otmar's 
first 1000 amp controllers with a single nine inch ADC. If you are going to 
use a 1000 amp controller or above use only a taper lock hub with a key.

Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" 
<[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub


> Thank you Joe and Father Time. I think I have the general idea behind
> the set screw hub. The force is being placed more or less opposite
> the key and any tendency to be able to rock or fret is being eliminated.
>
> How much torque can a set screw hub (with set screws on the key and
> 90 degrees away) really handle? I plan to slap about 160 ft/lb of
> torque out of the motor (1000 amps into an ADC 8 inch.) I've found
> only one source (Grainger) that provided a torque rating for a 1.125
> inch diameter set screw hub. They only list them as good to 1200 in/lb!
>
> Grainger also provides the torque rating for Ruland one piece clamp
> style shaft couplers for a 1.125 inch shaft. (this style of coupler
> is what I use in the EV Buggy, its a round sleeve split down one side
> with 4 small screws trying to close that gap around the shaft) This
> coupler is rated for 4400 in/lb, for both the version with the key
> and the version without the key! <http://www.ruland.com/
> ps_couplings_rigid_clc.asp> to see what I'm talking about.
>
> Full torque without a key? That scares me but if its a sound idea
> perhaps I could make the required motor adapter using one. The
> flywheel hub will have a 13/16th inch hole down the center for the
> pilot bushing. The adapter will extend past the end of the motor
> shaft 2 inches. Since its hanging a fair bit I need good centering.
> This is the part that concerns me with a Dodge-PT QD style taper
> bushing (it grabs a lot less motor shaft, and wobble issues and not
> unknown with a taper bushing.)
>
> Thanks for all your help,
> Paul Gooch
>
>


> [email protected] wrote:
> >
> >> HI- Paul, Most power transmission manufacturers a location over the
> >> key and
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Roland, after reading your message I would have to agree with you, but who 
in their right mind would go to this much trouble to add this much extreme 
torture to their life when a much simpler solution is available. Well maybe 
it wasn't available back then. If it was then I guess there are masochists 


Roderick Wilde


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roland Wiench" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>; 
<[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub


> Hello Paul,
>
> One thing I forgot to mention about the QD taper lock bushing is after I 
> had the machinist install a taper in the coupler to accept the taper lock 
> bushing is have him place the bushing over the same size shaft that the 
> motor shaft is. He then torques the set screws to the recommended torque 
> and place it into a CNC machine to see how every thing is center.
>
> He then checks one position, and then turns the bushing to another 
> position to see how it's centers to the same reference of the first 
> position. He then checks each position to see which position the of the 
> bushing should be place in the coupler. He then marks that position with 
> a punch, so when I assembly the coupler on my motor shaft it is the in 
> best centering position.
>
> We are talking center line positions that may range from 0.001 to 0.0001 
> if a inch.
>
> As for the set screw coupler that was made by GE and came assembly on my 
> motor ran from 1976 to 1985 with no problem. The problem was is in 
> getting it off. Had to use a large locking type wheel puller and try a 
> 3/4 inch socket on a long breaker bar. No luck, it did not even began to 
> budge.
>
> I had to get a large reverse air impact wrench and it started to barely to 
> come off and finally a load explosion that blast me back and it then 
> started to move.
>
> This coupler has a harden liner with a brass liner that is in contact with 
> the motor shaft. It shave off the a layer of brass when it was take off. 
> I found that the brass liner was machine for about 0.0001 under for a 
> extreme press fit. I had to take this coupler to a machine shop and had 
> it reline with a brass coating that they spray on hot and than is machine 
> for a extreme press fit.
>
> To install this coupler, I had to place the whole motor in a 20 ton press 
> which press on both ends of the double end motor shaft. The machine shop 
> had to made up brass protectors to put over the pilot shaft and one on the 
> coupler.
>
> The coupler has four hex head set screws place at 90 degrees apart around 
> the coupler. Each is torque in a sequence tighten one at 0 degrees then 
> the other at 180 degrees, the next at 270 and the one on the key at 90 
> degrees in 5 ft lb increments.
>
> Each set screw extends from the motor shaft at the same distance. The one 
> on the key is shorter because the 5/15 key would raise it up to high.
>
> The key is not a standard key. I find the standard key is too soft and 
> after the first 10 years it was worn some. The machinist gave me a piece 
> of 5/16 inch tool steel that lathe tools are made out of.
>
> In 2002, I had to go through the whole procedure to remove the coupler, 
> but this time, the key was still perfect, still have very sharp edges and 
> I had a hell of a time to remove it from the motor shaft.
>
> Yes, you can use a key shaft if its done right.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Paul" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" 
> <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 4:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub
>
>
>> Thank you Joe and Father Time. I think I have the general idea behind
>> the set screw hub. The force is being placed more or less opposite
>> the key and any tendency to be able to rock or fret is being eliminated.
>>
>> How much torque can a set screw hub (with set screws on the key and
>> 90 degrees away) really handle? I plan to slap about 160 ft/lb of
>> torque out of the motor (1000 amps into an ADC 8 inch.) I've found
>> only one source (Grainger) that provided a torque rating for a 1.125
>> inch diameter set screw hub. They only list them as good to 1200 in/lb!
>>
>> Grainger also provides the torque rating for Ruland one piece clamp
>> style shaft couplers for a 1.125 inch shaft. (this style of coupler
>> is what I use in the EV Buggy, its a round sleeve split down one side
>> with 4 small screws trying to close that gap around the shaft) This
>> coupler is rated for 4400 in/lb, for both the version with the key
>> and the version without the key! <http://www.ruland.com/
>> ps_couplings_rigid_clc.asp> to see what I'm talking about.
>>
>> Full torque without a key? That scares me but if its a sound idea
>> perhaps I could make the required motor adapter using one. The
>> flywheel hub will have a 13/16th inch hole down the center for the
>> pilot bushing. The adapter will extend past the end of the motor
>> shaft 2 inches. Since its hanging a fair bit I need good centering.
>> This is the part that concerns me with a Dodge-PT QD style taper
>> bushing (it grabs a lot less motor shaft, and wobble issues and not
>> unknown with a taper bushing.)
>>
>> Thanks for all your help,
>> Paul Gooch
>>
>>


> [email protected] wrote:
> >>
> >> > HI- Paul, Most power transmission manufacturers a location over the
> >> > key and
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

That why I am using a taper lock now. It is a night mare to try to install 
and remove this type of coupler. With the taper lock, I could just slip it 
on and off as needed.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub


> Roland, after reading your message I would have to agree with you, but who
> in their right mind would go to this much trouble to add this much extreme
> torture to their life when a much simpler solution is available. Well 
> maybe
> it wasn't available back then. If it was then I guess there are masochists
> 
>
> Roderick Wilde
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Roland Wiench" <[email protected]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>;
> <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 6:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub
>
>
> > Hello Paul,
> >
> > One thing I forgot to mention about the QD taper lock bushing is after I
> > had the machinist install a taper in the coupler to accept the taper 
> > lock
> > bushing is have him place the bushing over the same size shaft that the
> > motor shaft is. He then torques the set screws to the recommended 
> > torque
> > and place it into a CNC machine to see how every thing is center.
> >
> > He then checks one position, and then turns the bushing to another
> > position to see how it's centers to the same reference of the first
> > position. He then checks each position to see which position the of the
> > bushing should be place in the coupler. He then marks that position 
> > with
> > a punch, so when I assembly the coupler on my motor shaft it is the in
> > best centering position.
> >
> > We are talking center line positions that may range from 0.001 to 0.0001
> > if a inch.
> >
> > As for the set screw coupler that was made by GE and came assembly on my
> > motor ran from 1976 to 1985 with no problem. The problem was is in
> > getting it off. Had to use a large locking type wheel puller and try a
> > 3/4 inch socket on a long breaker bar. No luck, it did not even began 
> > to
> > budge.
> >
> > I had to get a large reverse air impact wrench and it started to barely 
> > to
> > come off and finally a load explosion that blast me back and it then
> > started to move.
> >
> > This coupler has a harden liner with a brass liner that is in contact 
> > with
> > the motor shaft. It shave off the a layer of brass when it was take 
> > off.
> > I found that the brass liner was machine for about 0.0001 under for a
> > extreme press fit. I had to take this coupler to a machine shop and 
> > had
> > it reline with a brass coating that they spray on hot and than is 
> > machine
> > for a extreme press fit.
> >
> > To install this coupler, I had to place the whole motor in a 20 ton 
> > press
> > which press on both ends of the double end motor shaft. The machine 
> > shop
> > had to made up brass protectors to put over the pilot shaft and one on 
> > the
> > coupler.
> >
> > The coupler has four hex head set screws place at 90 degrees apart 
> > around
> > the coupler. Each is torque in a sequence tighten one at 0 degrees then
> > the other at 180 degrees, the next at 270 and the one on the key at 90
> > degrees in 5 ft lb increments.
> >
> > Each set screw extends from the motor shaft at the same distance. The 
> > one
> > on the key is shorter because the 5/15 key would raise it up to high.
> >
> > The key is not a standard key. I find the standard key is too soft and
> > after the first 10 years it was worn some. The machinist gave me a 
> > piece
> > of 5/16 inch tool steel that lathe tools are made out of.
> >
> > In 2002, I had to go through the whole procedure to remove the coupler,
> > but this time, the key was still perfect, still have very sharp edges 
> > and
> > I had a hell of a time to remove it from the motor shaft.
> >
> > Yes, you can use a key shaft if its done right.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Paul" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
> > <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 4:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Set screw vs. taper lock motor hub
> >
> >
> >> Thank you Joe and Father Time. I think I have the general idea behind
> >> the set screw hub. The force is being placed more or less opposite
> >> the key and any tendency to be able to rock or fret is being 
> >> eliminated.
> >>
> >> How much torque can a set screw hub (with set screws on the key and
> >> 90 degrees away) really handle? I plan to slap about 160 ft/lb of
> >> torque out of the motor (1000 amps into an ADC 8 inch.) I've found
> >> only one source (Grainger) that provided a torque rating for a 1.125
> >> inch diameter set screw hub. They only list them as good to 1200 in/lb!
> >>
> >> Grainger also provides the torque rating for Ruland one piece clamp
> >> style shaft couplers for a 1.125 inch shaft. (this style of coupler
> >> is what I use in the EV Buggy, its a round sleeve split down one side
> >> with 4 small screws trying to close that gap around the shaft) This
> >> coupler is rated for 4400 in/lb, for both the version with the key
> >> and the version without the key! <http://www.ruland.com/
> >> ps_couplings_rigid_clc.asp> to see what I'm talking about.
> >>
> >> Full torque without a key? That scares me but if its a sound idea
> >> perhaps I could make the required motor adapter using one. The
> >> flywheel hub will have a 13/16th inch hole down the center for the
> >> pilot bushing. The adapter will extend past the end of the motor
> >> shaft 2 inches. Since its hanging a fair bit I need good centering.
> >> This is the part that concerns me with a Dodge-PT QD style taper
> >> bushing (it grabs a lot less motor shaft, and wobble issues and not
> >> unknown with a taper bushing.)
> >>
> >> Thanks for all your help,
> >> Paul Gooch
> >>
> >>


> [email protected] wrote:
> > >>
> > >> > HI- Paul, Most power transmission manufacturers a location over the
> > >> > key and
> ...


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