# GE motor forklift 36/48 volts need help to build 1ev



## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi everyone happy to be here, first I ave a project car as Mini Cooper 2010 manual 6 speed transform to ev so I ave a GE forklift motor 36/48 volts and the car for now so I need help to transform this car the motor 13inch diameter and 17 inch long big 200 pounds, so for all the welding and the fittings of the motor no problem for me at all , the thing I need to know is witch controller I need and how many battery and what kind ( here is the tag on the motor)
HP/ KW 12.5
Duty 1hr @ 140C
AU 1840 ?
So if someone can tell me what to buy and where whit a link I will appreciate, so as you can see I need everting 
Thank you very mutch


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Showbill said:


> ...here is the tag on the motor)
> HP/ KW 12.5
> Duty 1hr @ 140C
> AU 1840 ?


It's hard to interpret the information on a nameplate without context. The "AU" item is meaningless to me without more information. Can you post a photo of the nameplate where you are reading this?


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi Brian thank you for repliant ,here is the sticker on the motor, and my English is not to good


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

By the way I am building thi car for summer only and, and I saw some posts ho the says advance the brunch I don’t know what it’s mine


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Showbill said:


> here is the sticker on the motor...


That's a good photot, but it's one of the least useful motor placards I've seen - I was hoping for some context for at least the "AU1840", but there isn't any. Perhaps someone else will recognize this specific GE style and have more useful information.

Without some indication of operating speed, it's hard to tell how much current it would require.

That appears to be exactly the motor - including the specific serial number - in this eBay listing:
GENERAL ELECTRIC 5BT1362B144, BT1362B144 MOTOR NEW 
I suspect that what they list as "SER NO." isn't really a serial number, but rather a more specific model number.

You might need to just assume that it is similar to other brushed DC motors in this voltage range of about the same size. What is the outside diameter of the motor?


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Yes that’s the one


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

13 diameter and 17 long


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

And I ave this one to


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

9 inch diameter and 17 long


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)




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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

This is mine dirty whit different serial number, and thank you very mutch for your help


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

That 13 inch motor looks excellent - but it will need enough voltage to get to a useful rpm

I would suggest a minimum of 144 volts and 500 amps

in the forklift it will be more like 48 volts and 200 amps - but that will only work at low rpms - as in 1500 rpm

I'm using a slightly smaller motor (an 11 inch Hitachi) and I'm feeding it 1200 amps and 340 volts - but that is a bit extreme

Brush advance
You will need to advance the brushes because of the higher voltage and rpm - its not that difficult


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Yé thank you Duncan yes this mini it is for summer only, so how can I advance the brushes , and I want to be a bit crazy and more if I can, but if you can give me 2 alternative I will appreciate


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Need pictures of your motor
they are usually in three parts
A rear piece with bearing 
A center section with the field coils mounted to it
A front part with the front bearing and the brushes mounted to it

The way I advanced my motor was by drilling and tapping some new holes in the center bit so that the front part could be mounted about 8 degrees more advanced than its initial neutral position

There is a sticky thread in the motors section about using a forklift motor - I suggest spending an evening (its a long thread) just going though it


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Ok thank you I will post a picture tomorrow, an if you can give me the link to do it it will be perfect 
Thank


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Ho i Forget do you ave a place ho the ave good Price for controller, batterie, all I need to do my project ?


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

Showbill said:


> Ho i Forget do you ave a place ho the ave good Price for controller, batterie, all I need to do my project ?


Imma let you sober up and try that sentence again.


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## Frank (Dec 6, 2008)

Showbill: lots of people use batteries from wrecked EV's ex. Leaf, Volt. You can buy prismatics from online vendors. 500A would probably give very mild performance, even in a lightweight car. Manzanita Micro sells excellent controllers: the Z1K is available in a couple of different pack voltage levels and can output 1000A. It all depends on your specific goals.


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## lawrencerhodes (Mar 31, 2008)

Showbill said:


> Hi everyone happy to be here, first I ave a project car as Mini Cooper 2010 manual 6 speed transform to ev so I ave a GE forklift motor 36/48 volts and the car for now so I need help to transform this car the motor 13inch diameter and 17 inch long big 200 pounds, so for all the welding and the fittings of the motor no problem for me at all , the thing I need to know is witch controller I need and how many battery and what kind ( here is the tag on the motor)
> HP/ KW 12.5
> Duty 1hr @ 140C
> AU 1840 ?
> ...


It might be better if you salvaged an EV for the drive train. By the time you get the controller you might have to spend big money. You will also get better performance from let's say a Nissan Leaf drive train.


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Ok thank you but how mutch can cost a Nissan Leaf drive train and will it fit in a Mini Cooper?


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Ok i just check on salvage and found that set up from a VW E Gulf 2018 batterie, charger , and bms 

Capacity: 111AH

Dimension : 14" x 6" x 4.25"

Weight : 25 pounds

About the cell :

Manufacturer : Samsung SDI

Nominal Cell Voltage: 3.7 V

Maximum Cell Charge Voltage: 4.2 V

Minimum Cell Discharge Voltage: 3.0 V

Capacity: 37AH

Can it be good for my project? 400$


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Each module contain 12 x 37AH cells in a 4S3P configuration

About the module (12 cells)

Nominal Module Voltage: 14.8 V

Maximum Module Charge Voltage: 16.8 V

Minimum Module Discharge Voltage: 12.0 V

Capacity: 111AH

Dimension : 14" x 6" x 4.25"

Weight : 25 pounds


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

I found that from a salvage do you think it could be good for my project?

Battery module from a 2018 VW E-Golf.
Each module contain 12 x 37AH cells in a 4S3P configuration

About the module (12 cells)

Nominal Module Voltage: 14.8 V

Maximum Module Charge Voltage: 16.8 V

Minimum Module Discharge Voltage: 12.0 V

Capacity: 111AH

Dimension : 14" x 6" x 4.25"

Weight : 25 pounds

About the cell :

Manufacturer : Samsung SDI

Nominal Cell Voltage: 3.7 V

Maximum Cell Charge Voltage: 4.2 V

Minimum Cell Discharge Voltage: 3.0 V

Capacity: 37AH


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## lawrencerhodes (Mar 31, 2008)

Showbill said:


> Ok thank you but how mutch can cost a Nissan Leaf drive train and will it fit in a Mini Cooper?


You get them in the junk yard. The price is highly variable. If you could transplant the whole system you would have fast charging and a 24kw or larger battery. Integration into your mini would be the challenge. But since both are FWD you basically would be building a mount for the front suspension and simply transplant in the Leaf drivetrain. Many have done this on both electric and gas.


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## lawrencerhodes (Mar 31, 2008)

Here is a Porsche conversion.


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Duncan said:


> Need pictures of your motor
> they are usually in three parts
> A rear piece with bearing
> A center section with the field coils mounted to it
> ...


5BT1366B107A motor identification 









this is my motor GE 325744


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## lawrencerhodes (Mar 31, 2008)

The reason I have brought up using existing EVs as a basis for a conversion is these drive trains rarely break and the used price is low as the used market is small. They are robust and you can get rid of the stock transmission if you mount the unit either in rear drive or front drive modes. You can if you are cleaver use the Nissan OEM controls and basically make a 2002 BMW into a Nissan Leaf. Many advantages. Chademo fast charging among them. Not to mention Nissan has made a vehicle much better than the fork lift motor conversions we did 20 years ago. I own 2 Nissan Leafs and to be honest these are comfortable vehicles which are so much better than anything we can make. But if you want a body style other than a hatchback then a drive train swap is much better than overvolting a forklift motor. Been there done that. Lawrence Rhodes' 1997 Ford Aspire


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Thanks for the module information - it's good to see dimensions and configuration - but it isn't necessary to post the same thing three times.

The energy density of these modules is relatively typical of modern EVs, although perhaps a little on the low side; it's much better than the first-generation e-Golf (which had different 25 Ah cells from Sanyo or Panasonic). The configuration could be useful for DIY EV conversions, because the battery is split up into so many small modules (accommodating the intricate packaging arrangement of the e-Golf pack), so they can be arranged to fit available space; also, any desired system voltage can be roughly matched by changing the number of modules in series.

The first-generation e-Golf had the same overall cell configuration (88S 3P), in a total of 27 modules, with some of them being half the size (2S 3P instead of 4S 3P). If salvaging from a used e-Golf, be aware that there are likely 17 4S3P modules and ten 2S 3P modules.

The e-Golf has a rated motor power (probably only for a brief period) of 100 kW; at 323 V that's 310 amps, so the modules must be able to safely deliver that in bursts. To use them at a low system voltage you would need to arrange in them in parallel strings; for instance, two strings at 310 amps each could safely deliver 620 amps total. With eight modules per string, you would be using about two-thirds of the e-Golf pack, delivering up to 73 kW to the controller.


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi can someone tell me witch contactor i should buy for a 80 volts controller whit 600 amp


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## Frank (Dec 6, 2008)

I would look at the ev200 line or gigavac. 

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi again everyone I need information on what I should buy for my project 


1- controller dc 80 volts 500amp ?
2- throttle pedal 
3- contactor ? 
Thank you


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Showbill said:


> Hi again everyone I need information on what I should buy for my project
> 
> 
> 1- controller dc 80 volts 500amp ?
> ...


NO!! - 80 volts will give you a top speed of about 40 mph

You need 144 volts PLUS
500 amps is OK
The throttle will depend on the controller

You will need 
A Reversing contactor - this is a funny two coil device to enable you to reverse the motor
If you are using a gearbox with reverse you don't need a reversing contactor

A Contactor for each end of the battery
A contactor (smaller) for the pre-charge


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Thank you Duncan as you can see I don’t know to mutch , i will ask you a favour so if you can make me a drawing how to connect all of this if you ave time if you don’t ave time it is ok or if you know where I can find a drawing it will be perfect 
Thank you very mutch ⚡


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi I found one for starting project and I will do more next summer but there is a question I needs to know for now is how can I boust my motor to accep 144v now it is a 36/48 volts and my motor as I said before it is a GE motor 17 inch’s long x 12inch 
Thank you for your help


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Showbill said:


> Hi I found one for starting project and I will do more next summer but there is a question I needs to know for now is how can I boust my motor to accep 144v now it is a 36/48 volts and my motor as I said before it is a GE motor 17 inch’s long x 12inch
> Thank you for your help


The only thing you need to do is to advance the brushes - if you read the thread on "Using a forklift motor"









Using a forklift motor, and choosing a good one


Hey all I thought I'd chime in and discuss the basics on choosing a forklift motor. In general, I advise people to look for a motor that weighs between 100 to 150 lbs. The heavier the car, the heavier the motor needs to be to push it around. The way I see it is, you don't want Peewee hermin...




www.diyelectriccar.com


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Frank said:


> I would look at the ev200 line or gigavac.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk


Thank you Frank but witch voltages and Amp should I buy? And how many do I need 
Thank you


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## Frank (Dec 6, 2008)

As Duncan mentioned earlier you should have one contactor in each battery wire. Typically the one in the negative lead turns on with the ignition key and the one in the positive lead is turned on after the controller is pre-charged. I have used Tyco EV200 AAANA style but there are others. They must match your battery voltage and controller current limits. You may need reversing contactors if you do not use a transmission. 

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi again everyone I found 3 Honda Civic battery pack 144 volts in good condition I would like to know if you know how can I use this 3 pack for my project but I will start whit 1 to see if everything works correctly and I will ave to change my controller 80v 600A


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Ho i forget do you know if I can modify the front of the battery pack where are the fuse and the terminals, the it came from 2005 civic


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)




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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)




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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Showbill said:


> Hi again everyone I found 3 Honda Civic battery pack 144 volts in good condition I would like to know if you know how can I use this 3 pack for my project but I will start whit 1 to see if everything works correctly and I will ave to change my controller 80v 600A





Showbill said:


> ... it came from 2005 civic


According to the Wikipedia article on the Civic Hybrid, this is a 6.0 Ah battery... that's 144 V * 6.0 Ah = 864 Wh (or 0.864 kWh) per pack. That's normal for non-plug-in hybrid (although low voltage compared to Toyota hybrids), but not enough energy to drive a battery-electric car more than 3 miles per pack, and it won't even briefly deliver much more than the 10 kW (13 hp) per pack needed for the Civic's hybrid system motor. Great for a go-kart or golf car... not so much for a real car. The relatively small wires connecting to the battery are a hint...

As with most non-plug-in hybrids, this is a nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) battery, consisting of 120 1.2-volt Ni-MH D-cells wired in series. The big fuse mounted on the pack is rated at 100 amps, and is to protect the wiring - the battery can't deliver that much.

Maybe one of these to start the project and make sure everything works at this voltage, and an entirely different and much larger battery to finish?


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Thank you Brian I will check for something else


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Frank said:


> Showbill: lots of people use batteries from wrecked EV's ex. Leaf, Volt. You can buy prismatics from online vendors. 500A would probably give very mild performance, even in a lightweight car. Manzanita Micro sells excellent controllers: the Z1K is available in a couple of different pack voltage levels and can output 1000A. It all depends on your specific goals.


Hi Frank I found this battery for kia optima hybride or Hyundai sonata hybride de 2011 à 2016. Do you think it could be good for me ?
Thank you


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

An


Showbill said:


> Hi Frank I found this battery for kia optima hybride or Hyundai sonata hybride de 2011 à 2016. Do you think it could be good for me ?
> Thank you


And this one I found Hybride Battery from Toyota Prius 400$ can I used on of them or it is no good 
Thank you


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi everyone I am back for answers 
So I return the 80 volts controller and 600amp 

I just found another controller ho can go to300A 200V 72V 96V 144V DC motor PWM speed controller high power current limit and I will need your experience to guide me whit this controller it ok for me
Thank you


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## Frank (Dec 6, 2008)

Showbill: I know little about the batteries you mentioned a couple of posts up in this thread. Can you post more details about this controller? Also, where do you live? There maybe someone close to you who can help advise you.


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi fFank thank you for answering my questions here is more detail about this controller 
*
We have several type of DC motor PWM controllers!
Simple forward or reversible version. up to 300A and 200V with programmable USART and other useful functions and more...





























Please check our ebay store:

>>>Click here to see our store and more type of motor controllers<<<





Very important: 




Because of some missunderstandings for those customers who does not need the programing registers and the serial communication they dont have to learn and deal with the programing! 
The controller is fully working without doing any programing. In the datasheet you will find information about the programing but telling you again that is not important to you if you just want to use a simple potentiometer or throttle controlling your motor. You just need to choose the controll mode with the red DIP switch 1-2 on the board. The controller's registers are optional for those users who need this function for their application. 

Click to expand...


Donwload the datasheet with this link:

www.dropbox.com/s/s4oyzcjho60zfda/HL200200%20v1.01%20full.pdf



Use this controller for any brushes motor!
Like: trolley, outboard, electric bicycle or more....

Advantages against other motor controllers:

True heavy load copper track can handle very high peak currents and 200A continuous current.
Isolated RS232/485 connection with full access of controll registers and much more usefull adjustable parameters.
Advanced PCB layout technique.
High speed 32bit Cortex processor.
Connection with high current M6 screws.
Built with ultra low resistance MOSFETs
2 quadrant operation (drive CW and regenerative brake CW)
Low warming and capable to accept heatsink.
20kHz switching frequency no switching noise
Duty cycle: 0-97%
Universal 0-5V speed controller input. You don't have to use the potentiometer to controll the speed. You can use PLC
output or any analog signal or PWM signap from uPC or RC receiver PWM signal.
Regenerative braking (you can brake the motor and get back all the kinetic energy into the battery)
For the highest safety the regenerative braking never substitutes the ordinary brake!
Adjustable ramp speed. 0-20sec. (acceleration limit)
Normal current continuous limit is adjustable between 0-200A
Switchable peak current ON or normal strict current limit 
Peak current 300A for 5 seconds.
Adjustable regenerative current.
Universal supply voltage between 22-200V DC.
Dimensions: 220 x 135 x 50 mm
Note: For the maximum power you have to add extra heatsink to the aluminium block. The aluminium block is predilled with M3 holes. 
850g
You can choose between 6 operation modes with the red DIP switch on the PCB board:



1. Normal potentiometer mode 0-5V 0-97% output voltage
2. Magnetic hall throttle mode ( 0.5-4,5V input) or programable input voltage like 1-3V or anything you want.
3. Simple PWM signal (0-95%) from arduino or a RC receiver. 
4. RC receiver PWM input 1,5ms +/-1ms 
5. RS232 controll with simple commands recommended for beginner programmers for example Arduino.
6. RS485 advanced controll for precise industrial controll. With the optically isolated connection and CRC protected communication you can communicate with the device and get access for the all controll registers.

Click to expand...

Adjustable and saveable parameters with RS232/RS485 read/write commands: 

Motor speed
Current limit/regenerative current limit
Acceleration/deceleration limit
Turn ON/OFF minimum and turn ON/OFF maximum voltage levels for example turn off the unit at low battery voltage
Heatsink and Motherboard temperatures
Supply voltage
Potentiometer input voltage (you can use this input for an analoge measurement input if you are controlling the speed with RS232/485 commands )
Output current
Input frequency on PWM input
Input duty on PWM input
I x R compensation (this if for speed regulation compensation the load drop voltage)
Top output voltage / supply compensation (maximum speed limit) (this can be very usefull in more cases. As you give a maximum reference voltage (maximum RPM) what the output can be with the maximum gas setting. This value becomes a reference voltage and archive perfect supply voltage compensation. This means if your supply voltage drops of raise your motor PRM remains the same. Using the supply compensation and the I x R compensation together you can archive perfect speed regulation without any closed loop feedback and no tachogenerator is needed.
Status register
Configuration bits
Adjustable RS485 address controlling more controllers on one line.
Current calibration register
For more information and how to use the RS232/485 communication please read the datasheet with the controll registers.


Why choose this controller?

On the ebay there is many type of controller the most piece is a chinese simple and cheap controller. They are great until you put a large load to theirs output. 
-That controllers don't have supply filtering what is very important! Without it the most of the chinese controller regularly burning down. 
-They haven't got proper freewheele diode against the motor inductive current! 
-The most of them don't have any current limit function which is very important by a motor.

This unit is a current limited speed controller for any brushed DC motor with great LOW ESR capacitor supply filtering and a syncgronous switching freewheel diodes!

 
How can you controll the motor speed with this controller?

With the current limit potentiometer you can very fine adjust the current what the motor can maximum consumes.
For example, you have 2000W 24V DC motor. Your motor nominal current is 83A. Than you adjust the current limit to 80A.
After them your motor and PWM driver is fully protected against the burning down and over load. Additional protection is the temperature protection. The controller measure the temperature of heatsink. If that exceed the maximum than the controller will shutting down.
You can easily control the motor speed between 0-95% with the motor speed controller potentiometer which is connected to the potentiometer terminal. Of course if you have a throttle you can use it ot if you have a special project and you want to controll the unit with your PWM signal which comes from your uPC unit you aslo can do taht. 



If you have any question special request or something, please feel free to contact, we are electrical engineers there isn't problem what can't solve. We will see what can we do.

If you need more pieces please contact I can give you discount!


Warranty: 6 months

Ho i live in Sherbrooke QC Canada 
*


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

the one I was looking for is the second one picture


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## Frank (Dec 6, 2008)

I've only ever used "name brand" items (Curtis, Zilla, Sevcon, Rinehart), all of which have a proven track record. 200A continuous current sounds pretty low to me but it also depends on your motor (which I assume is pretty "torquey") and batteries. The big motor you have could easily take 1000A and probably much more. If it was my project, I would rather pay a bit more for something I know will work.


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi again everyone I am looking to buy cheap battery pack what can you tell me if I can use this kia optima hybride ou Hyundai sonata hybride de 2011 à 2016.
Do you think it could be good or not or can you tell me where I can buy a pack not to expensive 
Thank you


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Frank said:


> Showbill: lots of people use batteries from wrecked EV's ex. Leaf, Volt. You can buy prismatics from online vendors. 500A would probably give very mild performance, even in a lightweight car. Manzanita Micro sells excellent controllers: the Z1K is available in a couple of different pack voltage levels and can output 1000A. It all depends on your specific goals.


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

lawrencerhodes said:


> The reason I have brought up using existing EVs as a basis for a conversion is these drive trains rarely break and the used price is low as the used market is small. They are robust and you can get rid of the stock transmission if you mount the unit either in rear drive or front drive modes. You can if you are cleaver use the Nissan OEM controls and basically make a 2002 BMW into a Nissan Leaf. Many advantages. Chademo fast charging among them. Not to mention Nissan has made a vehicle much better than the fork lift motor conversions we did 20 years ago. I own 2 Nissan Leafs and to be honest these are comfortable vehicles which are so much better than anything we can make. But if you want a body style other than a hatchback then a drive train swap is much better than overvolting a forklift motor. Been there done that. Lawrence Rhodes' 1997 Ford Aspire





Frank said:


> I've only ever used "name brand" items (Curtis, Zilla, Sevcon, Rinehart), all of which have a proven track record. 200A continuous current sounds pretty low to me but it also depends on your motor (which I assume is pretty "torquey") and batteries. The big motor you have could easily take 1000A and probably much more. If it was my project, I would rather pay a bit more for something I know will work.


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Frank said:


> As Duncan mentioned earlier you should have one contactor in each battery wire. Typically the one in the negative lead turns on with the ignition key and the one in the positive lead is turned on after the controller is pre-charged. I have used Tyco EV200 AAANA style but there are others. They must match your battery voltage and controller current limits. You may need reversing contactors if you do not use a transmission.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk


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## Showbill (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi again everyone I need info I will used this 1253 8001 controller for starting my transformation this winter and see what I will do next summer but I really don’t know how to wired this controller to the rest of my stuff so I will put a diagram here so if someone can help me righting witch wired go where I will appreciate
Thank you


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