# Advice on automatic transmission - need your help!



## Roy Von Rogers (Mar 21, 2009)

This may be a stupid question but I'll ask anyway....is the motor spinning in the same direction as the ice motor ???


Roy


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

First: 

If you have already installed your motor adapter plate and bolted it to the bell housing, you might have damaged the transmission pump gears if the torque converter snout was not exactly aligned with those gears.

Think....When putting this together, did it go together easy and not have a small gap? Could you push it all up and everything touched? OR did you have to pull it together that last 1/2" with the bell housing bolts?

If you did use the bolts to pull it up, even a small 1/2", you probably did not have it perfectly aligned and have broken the pump gears. 

There would be no oil flow and the wheels would not turn.
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Next:

If you have a gauge set, do you have any pressure at the test port when trying to run it in drive or reverse?

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Also:

It is a slim chance, but that "OIL" warning light might be setting off a signal not letting you drive the car. It is trying to save your ICE motor.
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You can measure the old ICE motor, block face (where the bell housing meets) to crankshaft flange (where the flex plate rides)and get the reading.

With the electric motor installed to the adapter plate and the coupler adapter on the electric motor: Measure your adapter plate (the face where the bell housing would touch) to your flange of your adapter (where the flex plate goes) The two need to be the same.
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I am here for the next 5 days working on my car. I will keep watching your thread and trying to get you through this.

Miz


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## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

Roy Von Rogers said:


> This may be a stupid question but I'll ask anyway....is the motor spinning in the same direction as the ice motor ???


You are not the first to ask, so its not stupid! I confirmed the direction on the Porsche forums, their answer aligns with the direction driven by the starter motor on the ICE.


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## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

mizlplix said:


> If you have already installed your motor adapter plate and bolted it to the bell housing, you might have damaged the transmission pump gears if the torque converter snout was not exactly aligned with those gears.
> 
> Think....When putting this together, did it go together easy and not have a small gap? Could you push it all up and everything touched? OR did you have to pull it together that last 1/2" with the bell housing bolts?
> 
> ...


The TQ fit onto the trans smoothly and it was placed by hand. I then screwed the flex plate to the TQ which had the custom aluminum coupler already attached and a pocket to accommodate the TQ snout. I then maneuvered the DC motor into place and it took some effort to line up the shaft with the aluminum coupler. Once aligned I applied a lot of force to move the shaft farther into the aluminum coupler. Once the adapter plate reached the trans bell housing, I tightened a set screw that holds the key tight in the key way and key seat. I then put in the bolts that hold the adapter plate together.

When I idle the motor, the ATF fluid is pumped out of the sump, and I can pump more in through the fill hole. When I turn the motor off, the extra ATF drains out the fill hole.

So, I am not confident that I did not damage the pump, but because the ATF seems to be pumped up into the system, I suspect its working.



> If you have a gauge set, do you have any pressure at the test port when trying to run it in drive or reverse?


There is nothing in the driver console that shows pressure, I will have to check if there is a pressure test port.



> It is a slim chance, but that "OIL" warning light might be setting off a signal not letting you drive the car. It is trying to save your ICE motor.


The manual for the trans says that if you disconnect the electrical interface, the trans goes into emergency mode and defaults to 2nd gear in D and R should still work. To eliminate any electrical ECU headaches, I've been running in emergency mode for now.



> You can measure the old ICE motor, block face (where the bell housing meets) to crankshaft flange (where the flex plate rides)and get the reading.
> 
> With the electric motor installed to the adapter plate and the coupler adapter on the electric motor: Measure your adapter plate (the face where the bell housing would touch) to your flange of your adapter (where the flex plate goes) The two need to be the same.


I will measure this and come back for more.
Thank you for your help thus far!


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## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

Dang, I found this online:


> A few transmissions do not have any pressure taps at all. The Mercedes 722.6 transmission is one that doesn't.


(this is the stock trans in this car)


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## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

Good news - I put the car in Park today and let it idle for like 10 minutes, continuing to pump in ATF in the filler hole as much as it would swallow. I then put the car into Drive and it went into gear right away! I tested reverse and that worked too. So I am thinking the ATF pressure just wasn't present or enough?

All the previous times I was trying to get the wheels to spin, I was idling the car while in the D or R position, does the pump not pump while you are in gear if the pressure was too low to start? or is there a different latent issue that this exposes?
Link to video


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## cpct (May 31, 2012)

Kurtdiver said:


> Good news - I put the car in Park today and let it idle for like 10 minutes, continuing to pump in ATF in the filler hole as much as it would swallow. I then put the car into Drive and it went into gear right away! I tested reverse and that worked too. So I am thinking the ATF pressure just wasn't present or enough?
> 
> All the previous times I was trying to get the wheels to spin, I was idling the car while in the D or R position, does the pump not pump while you are in gear if the pressure was too low to start? or is there a different latent issue that this exposes?
> Link to video


Do you mean that there was no or very little ATF in the transmission during previous tests?


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

That's what it sounds like, not enough fluid.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

The fluid level is 3/4" above the pan to case gasket level. You need to pour it in and run the motor some while filling to fill the converter. Some take 8-12 Qts. of fluid.

Make sure the fill hole is plugged before shutting everything off or you will lose some.

That is why auto transmissions are checked while running (so the converter is filled.

Miz


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I seem to remember prefilling the TC to speed the process.


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## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

I was able to test drive the car by driving around the block yesterday. There is a video on my project page: http://kurtsprojects.blogspot.com or the direct youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PK95tBxgDk&feature=plcp

I did notice that after a certain RPM, the transmission starts to make a lot of racket. I will try to get a recording later today and approx. RPM so we can discuss further. Thank you for all of your help thus far!!

-K


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## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

So, after rev'ing to 1500RPMs I get a terrible noise from the transmission. Any ideas about what is going on? It severely hinders my driving ability...

Here is a youtube video that is the sound of the car idling at 1100RPMs, then rev'ing to 1500RPMs which is where the loud noise occurs, then returning RPM down to 1100. The vehicle is in Park during the entire video. The same noise occurs when I am in Drive or Reverse.

http://www.youtube.c...bed/PkcTzYiLDBc


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