# Kelly Controllers - Should we be running away?



## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

Yup. I was considering a Kelly but I think I'll pass this time around. What is it with the Chinese companies???


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## Little Rhody (Jun 17, 2008)

ElectriCar said:


> Yup. I was considering a Kelly but I think I'll pass this time around. What is it with the Chinese companies???


I deal with Chinese manufactures on a daily basis. From my experience, I can say there are some good ones and most of them are so-so to terrible. Now I have not had any controllers made there, but if I did, It would have to go through a very tough testing period before I released it to the public. For the most part if you tell them what you want made, show them how to make it, and double check there work, your usually OK. 

LR


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

The idea I am working with is to suspend the controller/w/heatsink in a poly container (a sportsbox that I picked up at a local mega-wally-world), I was thinking that with a venting situation running airflow into and out of the box at high volume, I keep the controller cooled and away from metallic contact with the body/frame of the vehicle. The box will contain the controller, a contactor, and shunt. The box is approximately 6"-w x 12"-h x 12"-l. And using high temp polymer materials to make stand-offs and brackets should allow for good electrical insulation... thoughts anyone?


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## joseph3354 (Apr 2, 2008)

KiwiEV said:


> This guy recently posted his video on Youtube regarding the Chinese made Kelly controller:
> http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=3fpQVAS8A9k
> 
> From his description it looks as though his brand new $1500 controller was recommended to be stuck to a heat-sink (makes sense) but when you do that, it puts the pack voltage in contact with the body of the car.
> ...


why didn't he insulate (isolate) the heatsink from the rest of the vehicle.i think that would solve the problem,wouldn't it?


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## Twilly (Jan 22, 2008)

Stupid question... If the heatsink would connect pack voltage to the cars chassis... I guess any contact with the chassis of the controller to the cars chassis would connect the 2??? So the chassis is not isolated???


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## 3dplane (Feb 27, 2008)

Hey Guys!
From previous posts I understand that the kelly INTERNALLY connects the ground for HV to share with low voltage ground. I was thinking the same thing just mount the controller to a heat sink then mount that to an isolated surface,but if the internal connection is true then your chassis will become the HV ground anyways! Barna


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

Any electrical device should have the power isolated from the sink. There's an isolator placed between the transistors and heat sink normally. The screw is routed through a sleeve if I recall correctly. It's been over 10 years since I worked on power supply's.

On the other hand, the vehicles chassis is connected to the negative of the battery all over the car. Therefore if it were connected to ground it should be the negative terminal. 

I've been wondering if the guy was hacking, didn't know what he was doing or a wire slipped his grip and grounded out across the control. Who really knows. 

However today I spoke with a dealer who sells Curtis and Kelly and he says the guy if full of it. He says Kelly's customer service is excellent. 

BTW, the guy I spoke to is at Cloud EV. He says Kelly is coming out with a controller that he should have in a week or so that is rated at 450A continuous and 600 max. They're also coming out with a 156V controller. He's having it put up on the site. He also owns Beepscom.com and they operate in the same building, same address.

I spoke with an engineer at Advanced who says he's seen the FB1-4001 running at 192V with no problems! I think I'm gonna jack my pack to 156V and go with the Kelly.


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