# 2007 Lamborghini Gallardo advice needed



## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

Looking forward to the progress.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Your 0-60 will be in 1st gear, so that says, if your tires can hook up, you get 0-60 in ~3s with a 315ftlb (2.75s with 350 ftlb) motor if you can keep the weight down to no more than 600lb for the pack. Given your reasonable range expectations, doing the numbers in my head say you can get there. 

Top speed is determined by HP.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

This could win for highest original retail price of a car converted in this forum 



Ragingbull55 said:


> I was thinking of hooking up a tesla drive unit directly to the cv axles, or keeping the Graxiano transaxle and coupling a motor to the input shaft.


Either approach can work. I assume that what you want to achieve by keeping the original transaxle is the AWD, with a single motor (most Gallardo variants are AWD). Almost no production EVs use a multi-speed transmission; the notable exception is the Porsche Taycan which has a two-speed rear transaxle to provide greater reduction for higher performance at low speed and less reduction to allow a higher top speed without exceeding the motor's limit.

The Graziano (which is probably the L140 model) might be of significant value (several thousand dollars in the U.S.) if sold, since it is usable as a replacement part in both the Gallardo and the Audi R8, and can be used in various mid-engine kit cars (Factory Five GTM, various Superlite models, etc).

As is always the case, the stock ratios in the Graziano are not great for any modern high-voltage motor: even first gear is not low enough, and the top gear or two are pointless. There are different ratios available, but changing them could be very expensive.

The drop gear set (which transfers from the driven shaft to the pinion shaft, so this is what you're calling "pinion drop") is replaceable to shift all of the ratios, but unfortunately the replacement ratios are generally taller (for higher top speed, or to better suit GM V8's instead of the Audi/Lamborghini engine), and you would want much shorter. I note that you list 1.240:1 as the drop gear ratio, but HCF Auto Parts lists 1.32:1 as stock... there are gearing variations in this transmission, and the 1.32:1 drop is part of other gear sets, such as the later Gallardo LP and at least some Audi R8s. Also, you didn't mention the final drive ratio (ring and pinion), but that appears to be 3.077:1... perhaps 40/13.

If it is turns out to good for nothing else, sorting this out has been an interesting education in this Graziano transaxle.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

remy_martian said:


> Your 0-60 will be in 1st gear, so that says, if your tires can hook up, you get 0-60 in ~3s with a 315ftlb (2.75s with 350 ftlb) motor if you can keep the weight down to no more than 600lb for the pack.


The pack... and the motor and inverter and everything else?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Motor is only 100lb. Bolt it to the transaxle. Run the car in 1st gear most of the time, higher gear on highway and for top speed.

He's sub 100 mile range, so...yes on the weight of inverter & pack.

Sports car - keep the weight & balance near stock or might as well sell that Lambo roller to me and do a C10 pickup truck.


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

brian_ said:


> This could win for highest original retail price of a car converted in this forum
> 
> 
> Either approach can work. I assume that what you want to achieve by keeping the original transaxle is the AWD, with a single motor (most Gallardo variants are AWD). Almost no production EVs use a multi-speed transmission; the notable exception is the Porsche Taycan which has a two-speed rear transaxle to provide greater reduction for higher performance at low speed and less reduction to allow a higher top speed without exceeding the motor's limit.
> ...


Yeah, i guess the main reason for wanting to keep the graziano is to keep it simple. Ive seen the lovejoy couplers that connect the electric motor to the input shaft. The cv shaft flanges that connect to the graziano don't seem to be a standard Audi part like everything else and the cost of new custom length axles were pretty steep (about 2k vs $100 coupler). I suppose that could be offset with the sale of the transaxle though. I see them going for around $8,000 on ebay. Part of me does want to hang on to it though as I want to leave the door open for putting an ICE back in. At the moment, the 5.0 v10 is hard to find and a new one costs about what I paid for the car.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Where would you get custom axles from?


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

remy_martian said:


> Where would you get custom axles from?


Cant remember the name but it was some shop that scpecialized in driveshafts. I think I found some spacers that will work though to make the cv flanges longer


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

I may go with a tesla drive unit after all. I made a cardboard template of the dimensions and it fits quite nicely. Looks like I would just need to mount it and make the cv axles and/or flanges longer. Is the tesla unit worth it in terms of cost/benefit compared to other motors like netgain? Are there any other production ev motors that might meet most or all of my criteria?


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

I don't know anything about them, but one shop that specializes in Graziano transaxles offers custom axles:
HCF Autosport - Graziano L140 products (see "Custom Axles")

In this case you would want the normal Gallardo outer joints with inner joints adapted to the EV transaxle, which is the reverse of what they usually do (normal Graziano inner joint with outer joints adapted to some vehicle), but in this case the same type of joints are used at both ends. It's basically a matter of either adapting the Tesla output stubs to this style of CV joints and making up the right length of shaft, or making a shaft which fits the Gallardo outer joint at one end and the Tesla inner joint at the other end.


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

On behalf of everyone, I demand pictures.


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

MattsAwesomeStuff said:


> On behalf of everyone, I demand pictures.


Here the tesla cutout I made. I want to try and find a way to mount everything without having to cut and/or weld the stock frame or atleast keep it to a minimum.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Leaf motor would do it for a lot less money, though torque would be limited to 210 ft-lb without a custom controller board for the inverter.

The tricky bit in either case is getting enough battery modules in the car to get the voltage high enough for an OEM motor, and to get the power out of the batteries. Motor torque is usually limited by how much juice the batteries can provide when you put your foot down.

I got my axles here:






The Driveshaft Shop - Home Page - Driveshaft Shop


DriveShaft Shop engineers built driveshafts for 30 years leading to many record-setting race-car builds. We specialize in the impossible.




www.driveshaftshop.com





They were about $1500. Some people cut, sleeve, and weld two sets of axles (one from the electric motor's gearbox and the other from the stock car's gearbox).


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

I don't think the axles will be as big of a deal as I thought. So far im looking at buying

-Tesla conversion kit (comes w/ tesla S motor, drive unit controller, accelerator pedal, wiring)
-2 Chevy volt batteries
-Custom axles
-Charger

Any other high dollar items (over $1000) that im missing so far?


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

DC/DC converter, BMS, charge controller.

If you mean 2 Chevy Volt battery packs, is there space? If you mean 2 Chevy Volt modules...You're gonna need a lot more battery.


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

Ragingbull55 said:


> So I currently have a 2007 Lamborghini Gallardo rolling chassis with the factory Graziano transaxle. I recently started toying with the idea of an EV conversion, but am starting to get overwhelmed by all of the information/possibilities. I have a fair bit of diy experience with ICEs but EV's are new to me. My main goals are:
> 
> -Keep costs as low as possible. I plan on doing most of the work, but may have someone help with welding/fabrication of motor mounts.
> 
> ...


You may want to do the exotic car a favor and use solid state batteries. They are half the weight and last many years. They also fast charge and fast discharge. They also will not need much battery management, due to no heat developed, when charging or discharging. They will be out there, in a couple of years or use the latest Tesla Panasonic batteries.


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## RodgerThat (May 4, 2020)

I’m pretty sure that the new Karma uses the solid state batteries. For the 2021 models.


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)




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## ev-swap (Jan 31, 2020)

I think a Tesla Large Drive Unit is the way to go on this project. A base unit will put out 450 hp out of the box, which will give you the 0-60 number you are looking for and a higher top end speed.

In the space of that cardboard cutout there is a super powerful OEM motor, controller AND transaxle all wrapped up in a single unit, you can't get more simple than that. 

A single Volt Battery pack will get you the range you want at a cost of about $3K and will weigh about 350 lbs. 



> > Any other high dollar items (over $1000) that im missing so far?


As Tremelune mentioned, the BMS can be expensive. I went the route of Orion (from StealthEV) and one of their integrated charger/DC-DC converters. So including a Performance Tesla Large Drive, BMS, Charger and all the other goodies StealthEV sells I was at $14K. add $3K for the batteries, and I think all the large expenses are covered. Its all high end stuff, but for goodness sake, that's a Lambo sitting in your garage. The car is awesome, so make the drivetrain awesome too. (please don't put a leaf drive in it.)

You could cut some corners and buy an eBay drive and add your own controller, but for me, doing my first conversion, it seemed smart to buy a 'kit' that provides some level of support.

Good luck and keep us posted, that's an awesome project!


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## dwolvin (Jun 7, 2009)

Was just coming here to say- Solid state will be great and seems closer than fusion... But call me when I can buy one.


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## mdrobnak (Mar 19, 2020)

Note that if you get a full Chevy Volt pack, you can use SimpBMS and use the slave boards as-is with no rewiring necessary. SimpBMS is like $400 US (creator is in UK, I forget the exact price). Unfortunately we don't know how to to control the OEM BMS yet as far as I know.

-Matt


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

ev-swap said:


> I think a Tesla Large Drive Unit is the way to go on this project. A base unit will put out 450 hp out of the box, which will give you the 0-60 number you are looking for and a higher top end speed.
> 
> In the space of that cardboard cutout there is a super powerful OEM motor, controller AND transaxle all wrapped up in a single unit, you can't get more simple than that.
> 
> A single Volt Battery pack will get you the range you want at a cost of about $3K and will weigh about 350 lbs.


450 horsepower would require 336 kW at perfect efficiency... perhaps 370 to 400 kW in reality. That Volt battery may carry adequate energy to reach the range, but I don't think that it can reasonably deliver that much power (GM rates it for 120 kW for up to 10 seconds), so the large drive unit seems pointless. Other projects have used two Volt battery packs to power a single large Tesla drive unit.

A Tesla Model S/X small drive unit would be an equally tidy single unit, with less bulk and weight, still capable of using what a single Volt battery can reasonably deliver.

Perhaps a small drive unit could even mount as it does in the Tesla - behind the axle - freeing up the entire engine space for battery?


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

To whom it may concern: *the power is in the batteries*. The Tesla motor won't put out 450hp unless it can pull it from the batteries. Teslas pull over 1000A to get the power out, and that's not easy to do. I don't know the specs on Volt batteries, but I suspect you'll go through a lot of trouble to put a Tesla motor in and find it won't put down the torque of a Leaf. Research here will pay off.

PS - The Leaf motor is better in every way but size vs the aftermarket motors being put in various Porsches and Ferraris by EV West and the like. Don't get hung up on brand bias. Folks are getting 300hp out of Leaf motors with upgraded inverters and better batteries.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

brian_ said:


> 450 horsepower would require 336 kW at perfect efficiency... perhaps 370 to 400 kW in reality. That Volt battery may carry adequate energy to reach the range, but I don't think that it can reasonably deliver that much power (GM rates it for 120 kW for up to 10 seconds), so the large drive unit seems pointless.


I'm not sure about that one, pending state of charge. Seems like a decent match for two full Volt packs. 



https://avt.inl.gov/sites/default/files/pdf/phev/batteryVolt1078.pdf


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Tremelune said:


> ...
> The Tesla motor won't put out 450hp unless it can pull it from the batteries. Teslas pull over 1000A to get the power out, and that's not easy to do. I don't know the specs on Volt batteries, but I suspect you'll go through a lot of trouble to put a Tesla motor in and find it won't put down the torque of a Leaf...


If you want to look at this from a current standpoint, 360 kW at 360 volts would be 1,000 amps... so yes, that current requirement makes sense.

The Volt pack is reportedly internally fused at 400 amps. GM's 120 kW rating implies 333 amps at the nominal 360 volts, or 300 amps at the maximum 400 volts. So the Volt pack can deliver at least 300 amps, but no more than 400 amps... which is not enough to run the large drive unit at even half of the desired 450 horsepower.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

coleasterling said:


> I'm not sure about that one, pending state of charge. Seems like a decent match for two full Volt packs.
> 
> 
> 
> https://avt.inl.gov/sites/default/files/pdf/phev/batteryVolt1078.pdf


Interesting 
Yes, you can get a lot more power in a brief pulse, which is interesting from a battery analysis point of view but not helpful in operating a vehicle. At the end there's a comparison of discharge power to usable energy, which shows that trying to get substantially more than rated power out is futile... unless you're just drag racing.


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## coleasterling (Feb 29, 2012)

brian_ said:


> Interesting
> Yes, you can get a lot more power in a brief pulse, which is interesting from a battery analysis point of view but not helpful in operating a vehicle. At the end there's a comparison of discharge power to usable energy, which shows that trying to get substantially more than rated power out is futile... unless you're just drag racing.


Sure, but you're probably only using high power on acceleration, too. In an electric supercar, you'll probably be doing some serious acceleration runs. 10s at 400kW is plenty to get yourself arrested on the street.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

coleasterling said:


> Sure, but you're probably only using high power on acceleration, too. In an electric supercar, you'll probably be doing some serious acceleration runs. 10s at 400kW is plenty to get yourself arrested on the street.


Absolutely... but 400 kW is over three times the GM rating for the Volt battery over that time period (10 seconds). My guess was that even the time needed to accelerate to highway speed (a few seconds) would probably be long compared to the DOE's "pulse", but that pulse period is also 10 seconds, according to the DOE's Battery Test Manual for Plug-In Hybrid Electric Vehicles. So GM rated the Volt battery well below what the DOE found it can provide, but the DOE only has to complete a test cycle before discarding the vehicle (with an hour of rest between pulses), and GM has to support a vehicle with a battery which lasts a decade or more driving in traffic.


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

I ended up ordering a Tesla large rear drive unit and Polykup vcu/mcu. Still trying to decide what battery and bms


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## mdrobnak (Mar 19, 2020)

Wow, I'm in the wrong business. 
Have you spoken with Electric GT? They have batteries for sale now. OX Drive Batteries - Electric GT - Electric Vehicle Systems
-Matt


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

Is there any benefit to going with two chevy volt packs over a complete Tesla model 3 battery pack given the same price?


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Ragingbull55 said:


> Is there any benefit to going with two chevy volt packs over a complete Tesla model 3 battery pack given the same price?


Yes: you have some hope of fitting two Chevy Volt packs in the car.

I can see the appeal of the Model 3 pack, since it has more the double the capacity of two Volt packs, is capable of similar current output, and doesn't require a parallel string configuration and the BMS complications that result. On the other hand, have you seen the length of the Model 3 modules? I can't imagine where these would go in a Gallardo. Well, I can imagine a Gallardo lifted like a 4X4 truck with an entire pack slung under the floor, but I would rather scrub that horrible image from my mind... 

From the first link I found with dimensions (measured by Jack of EVTV)...


> ... Tesla Model 3 modules are in rectangular shape, the two modules on either side are 67.5 in (1715 mm) long and weight 191 lbs (86.6 kg) each and the two center modules are a bit longer and heavier i.e. 73 in (1854 mm) and 207 lbs (98.9 kg). All four modules are 11.5 in (292 mm) wide and 3.5 in (90 mm) thick.


In short, the modules are *six feet long*.

The Chevrolet Bolt modules (by LG Chem, like the Volt, but with different proportions an a different cooling arrangement) have similar energy density to the Model 3 modules. The Bolt modules are smaller (because there are more of them), and so might be easier to package.


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

brian_ said:


> Yes: you have some hope of fitting two Chevy Volt packs in the car.
> 
> I can see the appeal of the Model 3 pack, since it has more the double the capacity of two Volt packs, is capable of similar current output, and doesn't require a parallel string configuration and the BMS complications that result. On the other hand, have you seen the length of the Model 3 modules? I can't imagine where these would go in a Gallardo. Well, I can imagine a Gallardo lifted like a 4X4 truck with an entire pack slung under the floor, but I would rather scrub that horrible image from my mind...
> 
> ...


Interesting.... I knew there had to be a catch. I wonder if thats why the model 3 packs are cheaper (less demand bc of configuration being undesirable to ev swaps).


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

Got the drive unit in. Looks like its not as wide as I thought it would be. I thought I would have to figure out a way to scoot it far enough back so the half shafts arent pointing backwards, but it clears the rear gussets allowing it to slide far enough back to center the half shafts.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

No grass growing under your feet, lol. Looks like you'll have a nice amount of room midships to keep the polar moments low (handling) and weight & balance proportioned.


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

Brainstorming potential ways to bolt the motor in. Hoping someone with some engineering experience/background could help point me in the right direction. The frame is all aluminum and appears to place all of the engine/trans weight pressing down in 4 locations circled in red. The tesla motor has 3 mounting points. The rear mount on the tesla looks easy, i drew in yellow along the lines of what i was thinking. The front and side mount look a bit more tricky as they dont line up with the stock mounting locations as well. Third pic shows distance between the front tesla mount and the stock mounting locations. Thinking of making a tubular steel frame for the tesla motor but open to ideas suggestions. Also, theres some aluminum sub frame (3rd pic) but im guessing I shouldnt really mess with that at all. Let me what you guys think. Thanks!


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

Heres a video to help paint a better picture.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Your chassis mounting points are meant to load vertically only, no moments. So those pickup points will work, but you need to join the front and rear mount brackets to keep them from producting a moment on the mounts to keep them from rocking when the DU reacts to the torque it makes. A chrome-moly pipe over that "pass" (as in mountain pass) in the gearcase, between your two mounting brackets should work to stabilize those brackets.

You probably know that the Tesla uses three mounting points, the third being on the end of the motor housing...looks like you already have some nice points on the chassis to mount a bracket to there. That keeps the DU from rolling in its mount when you hit a pothole due to a difference in mass between the motor and the inverter, and maybe yawing/rolling when you encounter traction differences between the two half shafts.


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

remy_martian said:


> Your chassis mounting points are meant to load vertically only, no moments. So those pickup points will work, but you need to join the front and rear mount brackets to keep them from producting a moment on the mounts to keep them from rocking when the DU reacts to the torque it makes. A chrome-moly pipe over that "pass" (as in mountain pass) in the gearcase, between your two mounting brackets should work to stabilize those brackets.
> 
> You probably know that the Tesla uses three mounting points, the third being on the end of the motor housing...looks like you already have some nice points on the chassis to mount a bracket to there. That keeps the DU from rolling in its mount when you hit a pothole due to a difference in mass between the motor and the inverter, and maybe yawing/rolling when you encounter traction differences between the two half shafts.


Thanks for the reply! I figured the mounting points are only meant to support the weight vertically, but how can I get the weight on the front mounts vertical. The front mount point on the DU isnt centered perfectly over the mounting points. I was thinking something like this but wasnt sure if that angle of the tubing facing backwards and up would be to much weight horizontally. Excuse the crude mockup, 2x4s would be the steel tubing. Thanks!


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

It doesn't need to be centered. I would run a transverse (cylindrical) tube across your front mounts, another transverse (cylindrical) tube across the back mounts. Drop some plasma-cut brackets from each tube down to pick up on the Tesla mounts.

Then run one backbone tube over the DU through the valley to join the front tubes to the back to keep the front and back tubes from rocking. Or, you could run two tubes, one at each end of your transverse tube, but that'll take up space above the DU that you might use for battery modules, as your 2x4 mounts do. You'll regret taking up space like that...


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

This is probably a dumb question, but can the chevy volt modules be oriented any way or do they need to stand upright?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

As long as you purge air out of the system, should be able to flip them any way you want.


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

Another dumb question... When you say purge the air, you mean the cooling system right?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

yes


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## TeZla (Feb 18, 2021)

Ragingbull55 said:


> I ended up ordering a Tesla large rear drive unit and Polykup vcu/mcu. Still trying to decide what battery and bms


I have a question regarding the Polykup MCU that you may be able to help me with.
I've just bought a Tesla SDU for my build and im looking at the Polykup MCU as part of my build.

Does the MCU control the Tesla motor directly? Or do you still need another system to control the motor itself with the MCU just being a fancy visual display and control interface?
I've been trying to find this information everywhere and haven't had much luck in getting a definitive and explicit answer to the question.


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## gunns (Sep 1, 2021)

TeZla said:


> I have a question regarding the Polykup MCU that you may be able to help me with.
> I've just bought a Tesla SDU for my build and im looking at the Polykup MCU as part of my build.
> 
> Does the MCU control the Tesla motor directly? Or do you still need another system to control the motor itself with the MCU just being a fancy visual display and control interface?
> I've been trying to find this information everywhere and haven't had much luck in getting a definitive and explicit answer to the question.


Have you look at the AEM VCU200 EV controller that forms the basis of the ElectricGT's kit?
It caught my attention because it integrates the motor control with SW that seems straightforward enough for anyone who has done their own ICE engine ECU tuning (you can download the SW from the website and play with it for free even without an actual VCU to talk to). 





VCU200 Programmable Electric Vehicle Control Unit | AEM EV







www.aemev.com





It also talks to an AEM BMS system (PDU-8)








Tesla Motor Swap System


Electric GT is now offering a complete Tesla Motor Swap platform (DIY) for EV builds and conversions. EGT’s package includes a large base Tesla Drive Unit inclusive of AEM’s new control board pre-installed, tested, and ready to go! The drive unit is paired with AEM’s Battery Management System...




electricgt.com





I'm about to start my first EV build and I believe I am the target type of customer for a build kit like this.
There is still plenty of work around stripping the donor car, building the necessary brackets to hold the LDU, the axles, the battery boxes, and the other secondary system (12V vacuum boosting for the brakes, etc), that I don't mind throwing money at some parts of the problem to simplify things.

I'm curious if you take a look at this ECU and if you have decided if its worth it or not.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

You're inviting a threadjack of this build with your last two paragraphs when you should be starting your own thread on this AEM stuff -- assuming there isn't one alteady


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## gunns (Sep 1, 2021)

remy_martian said:


> You're inviting a threadjack of this build with your last two paragraphs when you should be starting your own thread on this AEM stuff -- assuming there isn't one alteady


I didnt mean to threadjack. i suggested looking at the AEM VCU as an alternative to the polykup. im just getting started so if you have already disregarded this controller for your build, id be curious to know why.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

The Polykup has a much sweeter driver interface, for starters


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## gunns (Sep 1, 2021)

remy_martian said:


> The Polykup has a much sweeter driver interface, for starters


So you integrated the tablet into your dash vs trying to setup converters (canbus or other) for the donor vehicles gauge cluster? hrm. thats interesting.

the polykup doesnt seem to integrate the BMS though... what did you choose to manage your battery modeules? The OP raging bull selected the polykup but not a BMS yet..


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## TeZla (Feb 18, 2021)

lets not threadjack his build thread yea?

I have since later heard from Sam (Polykup) with an answer to my question. I'll post it here for the sake of anyone else who may be searching this later.
The Polykup MCU does NOT control the tesla motor, its just a central interface and display using CAN to all the other onboard control modules. Its got a lot of cool features, but it still requires a separate motor control system. They sell a VCU that interfaces with the tesla drive unit. Sam mentioned that its 'typically' plug and play, but may require a firmware reflash of the logic board to work properly. They usually ship the VCU and drive unit already tested and working as a pair.

A quick look over the AEM VCU200 seems to show that it needs a replacement logic board to be put inside the tesla drive unit.


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## [email protected] (Sep 19, 2021)

I want to put an electric motor setup on my 2007 Lamborghini Gallardo & Possible my Maybach. If had to pick a shop to build the most dependable setup. Who would you use & does anyone have a 3 motor with a long range solid state battery?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Sounds like you can easily afford to have someone mine the unobtanium and build your solid state battery cells for you. Craigslist ad under "help wanted" should work nicely.

Even the spammers are now threadjacking this interesting project. It is a real one, not a 12 year old's fantasy. Read and learn.

If you have your own project in mind or questions on your project, it doesn't get posted in this one if you expect serious answers/advice.


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## Scotty274 (Jul 1, 2020)

Hey mate,

Had a quick read of the thread, very keen to hear your progress and discuss any information you have gathered on the Gallardo and how all the electrickery to the dash and stuff ticks. I have an inkling that they use the same VAG protocols as the rest of the VAG lineup, but I'm not sure.


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## captainbenis (10 mo ago)

Heya, I have a gallardo spyder that I'm getting a shop to convert to EV for me. I'm planning to use a tesla model 3 motor connected direct to the transaxles, RWD only, and removing the entire old drivetrain. Did you get very far with this project? Can you give me an email to chat [email protected].




Ragingbull55 said:


> So I currently have a 2007 Lamborghini Gallardo rolling chassis with the factory Graziano transaxle. I recently started toying with the idea of an EV conversion, but am starting to get overwhelmed by all of the information/possibilities. I have a fair bit of diy experience with ICEs but EV's are new to me. My main goals are:


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Lambo Spyder V10 AWD -> Tesla M3 2WD done by a shop

how sad


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

Update: ended up scrapping the project and doing a complete 180 when my adhd kicked in. I dropped in a jdm subaru ej20x with a 2wd modified transmission and megasquirt. Got it running/driving recently but cant get the EV conversion possibilities out of my head. So.... the conversion is back on but this time im going with:

Tesla small rear drive unit
Openinverter board
1 complete gen 2 volt pack
Simpbms

Already have these three things ordered and on the way but trying to figure out what else I need. My main question right now is how much of the gen 2 volt battery/electrical components can be reused(atleast easily). Im going to be using simpbms with 6x tesla balance boards. How easy would it be to have the simpbms outputs control the charger, dc/dc conv, contactors, etc or should I just toss all of that and only keep the batteries themselves?


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## TeZla (Feb 18, 2021)

Did you end up getting all the bits from Polykup? What did you think of them and their product?
We would be interested to hear your thoughts and experience on that, especially given some of the recent events with Polykup


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## Ragingbull55 (Oct 25, 2020)

TeZla said:


> Did you end up getting all the bits from Polykup? What did you think of them and their product?
> We would be interested to hear your thoughts and experience on that, especially given some of the recent events with Polykup


I ended up never using it but it took several months to ship.


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