# Controller Whine



## Guest (Jun 28, 2011)

What kind of vehicle? I'd suggest a new Synkromotive controller. Totally silent and fully configurable. 750 amp 156 volt controller. So you can do 120 now and upgrade later if you so decide. The controllers are very good and priced well. They are not for racing but will make any medium sized vehicle scoot along real nice. I have one in my MG. Love the Synkromotive. 

Pete


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## Qer (May 7, 2008)

lowcrawler said:


> Okay, I watched a few videos and heard what I assume is a Curtis 1231C controller make a whining noise at low speeds.


As fas as I know it's only the 1231C that makes the 1.5 kHz squeal so you could get anything else and it'll be quiet. I see gottdi has already plugged Synkromotive so to be fair I'll mention some others too, like Kelly (cheap and with a mixed reputation), Logisystems (ditto), Zilla (out of production, very good reputation otherwise), Netgain (don't know much about those, haven't seen it used much) and, of course, Soliton (modesty forbids me to claim that they're best  ).

You can find an incomplete list here, but it might be a start at least. And as I said, as far as I know only the 1231C makes the squeal. Searching the forum for experience with the different controllers might also be a good thing, to get an idea of how they behave out in reality too.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

Curtis 1221C and 1231C controllers make that hideous squeal. I thought I would toss in the other Curtis squeaker Qer.  

Some motors are louder than others, the controller is just the amp and the motor is the speaker. The Advanced DC 9 inch motor is notorious for making a racket.


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## Qer (May 7, 2008)

Oh, 1221C too? Didn't know that. Thanks for the info, always fun to know trivia like this. Never know when it'll come in handy for some chit-chat at the Nobel prize dinner or so.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Yes, my 1221C does it as well, but it's rather rare as that's only when throttle is applied under 10%. I hear the squeal 2-3 seconds a day, unless I get stuck in bad traffic.


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## lowcrawler (Jun 27, 2011)

Given the squeal and the availability of alternatives ... why do people go with the curtis controlers? They seem to be the most popular, so there has to be a reason...


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## Guest (Jun 29, 2011)

.....Because the curtis is comfortable and has a good following and proven reliable. Not really a strong power house but reliable and available and been used for a long long time. Folks are reluctant to move away from the comfort zone. I prefer to use something designed for automobiles. Yes it is a risk but one worth taking for a nice usable controller. Not many to choose from really. 

But some of the new boys on the block have a proven record. No known failures for the Soliton1 or Synkromotive. Zilla is pretty much a good choice but not available any longer. The Warp controller I am sure will be a good choice too. So you really have three power house controllers available. Synkromotive, Warp and Soliton1. I guess you can add in the Soliton Jr if you like. Synkromotive is only air cooled but reliable. No failures and it has been pushed to the limits. 

Pete


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## gojo (Feb 1, 2011)

I like the whine. It gives a little warning to others that the car is there, and about to move. Once I get started it goes away. 

Electric cars are too quiet, and that can be dangerous in parking lots and such. 

Also, the whine helps me manage the accelerater, so I can make smoother starts.


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## lowcrawler (Jun 27, 2011)

That is a good point -- but if I just need it as warning, I could get a buzzer and then have the ability to turn it off. (actually, not a bad idea for parking lots and such)


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## Qer (May 7, 2008)

gojo said:


> Electric cars are too quiet, and that can be dangerous in parking lots and such.


Imo pure nonsense. Have you heard modern gas cars? They're more or less silent in a parking lot too and in a city, with all the environmental noise, it's definitely hard to hear a single car in time to jump out of it's way. Despite that you don't hear about the mass slaughter going on in the parking lots in the big cities.

It is, after all, the DRIVERS business to keep track of pedestrians, other cars and other obstacles like pillars and generally they apparently do a decent job doing that. After all, it doesn't matter how much noise a car does, a pillar won't jump out of it's way anyway and yet car-pillar collisions are rare.


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## m38mike (Dec 27, 2008)

I'm using a Soliton Jr and on any of the settings I've tried I have not heard any whining. In fact it's so quiet that I'm finding the cooling fans annoying (just kidding!). I did add the liquid cooling to it, and bought low-noise fans for the radiator since all of this is in the cab along with me. The cooling fans do make a low hum that is not audible outside the vehicle and only noticable when it's stopped. 

But since I switched to the Jr. there is noticably less operator whine!!


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## Qer (May 7, 2008)

m38mike said:


> But since I switched to the Jr. there is noticably less operator whine!!


Yeah. I guess there's very little point in removing one source of noise without removing the other ones too...


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## DaveAK (Jun 28, 2009)

Would just like to point out that the Zilla is soon to be back in production:

http://manzanitamicro.com/


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## Snakub (Sep 8, 2008)

Whatever you do, do not buy a logisystem controller!


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## dogstar74 (Dec 6, 2008)

I have noticed also that video picks up and magnifies many sounds that in real life are muted and not noticable. I believe the whine in Gav's Kiwi EV videos is a lot louder on the camera mic than in person. 

This happens a lot with pumps when people are videoing their aquariums. The pumps sound more like the engine room of a cruise ship than a quiet aquarium pump. 

Personally, I wouldn't pay it any mind. It's the reliability you're buying. 

As for blind kids in parking lots and such, well they can probably feel the sound system in the car if they need any warnings of my approach.


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## brainzel (Jun 15, 2009)

I had a Curtis 1221C which was replaced by an 1231C and I can confirm the "whine".
It is only noticeable at start or in heavy traffic (approaching), so during the ride, there is no sound.
Nevertheless I would shut it off, if i could.

Our New Beetle is more than 2800 pounds _(~1300 kg) and I don't see much more than 350 amp peaks during my daily drive._
Effectiveness is more relevant to me, than a overwhelming acceleration, I think.
80mph+ is no big thing.

The Curtis 1231C @ 144V does a googd job. If I would start again convertiong a car, I would take a Soliton Junior due to the flexibility, feature list and it's developed for on road vehicles, not forklifts or so.
I read much from Evnetics-guys here, but nothing from Curtis collaborators ... I like uncomplicated help, if I need some, so my personal recommendation would be a 144V system (I would never again take lead-acid!) with a Soliton junior and a motor like the NetGain WarP 9.


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## Roy Von Rogers (Mar 21, 2009)

I know not too many use it....but the Curtis EVC255 also has that anoying whine.

Roy


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## Frankencar (Nov 17, 2008)

So I just got my conversion moving for the first time (yay!) and noticed the same whine. My question then is, how much padding/noise insulation can you put around the controller before running into thermal issues? Because I do find it annoying, but changing controllers at this point isn't really an option.


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## gojo (Feb 1, 2011)

Frankencar said:


> So I just got my conversion moving for the first time (yay!) and noticed the same whine. My question then is, how much padding/noise insulation can you put around the controller before running into thermal issues? Because I do find it annoying, but changing controllers at this point isn't really an option.


People do get used to things. The only time I am now aware of my Curtis whine is when I back the car out of the garage. The rest of the time it goes in one ear and out the other. Kind of like back when I was married.

In other words, just drive your Curtis a month or two, and see if it still bothers you before you start adding sound insulation, and risk over heating your controller. Make sure you give it enough air to keep it no hotter then what is tolerable to hold your hand on, or better yet check it with a IR gun. 

I have been very happy with my Curtis after replacing a Kelly.


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## madmike8 (Jun 16, 2011)

I thought the controller caused the whine, but the motor is where the whine comes from? Insulating the controller would't help then. You would insulate the motor instead. Still doesn't sound like a good idea for heat reasons.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

As I understand, the controller is the driver, and causes the noise, but the motor is the speaker that produces it. Neither should be insulated though, any insulation should go on the firewall.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

...but I'm just a little Cursit, I can't make any real power 

(I keep thinking that every time I read the thread title)


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## Frankencar (Nov 17, 2008)

EVfun said:


> ...but I'm just a little Cursit, I can't make any real power
> 
> (I keep thinking that every time I read the thread title)


 HAHAHA- Hey wait, don't make fun of my Curtis, it's all I got!


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