# ideas on mounting my motor



## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Is that the new Warp Stealth motor?


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## tomcameron (Sep 24, 2011)

Ok this is embarrassing it’s not letting me load up any pictures. How do you load up pictures?


Any way my motor is an AC induction type


http://www.everything-ev.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_77_97&products_id=279


I don’t think I can use the feet, but there are two holes on the top which is used for a crane. It’s in front of the control box in the centre. Any ideas?
thanks


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Click Go Advanced, then the paperclip to add attachments


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## tomcameron (Sep 24, 2011)

finished heres the pictures, turned out they were too big to be loaded.
so what do you guys think?


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## njloof (Nov 21, 2011)

If you want your pictures to be small enough to post without being the size of a postage stamp, try saving them as JPEG with a lower "quality" setting.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Is the motor already mounted to the transmission? How was the transmission mounted originally?


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Use the existing mount on the transmission side first off.

Re use the original mountings removed from the ICE and adapt them to support the motor from its foot mount.

You can make up a plate with bolt holes for the foot, bolt it in place. 
Fit the motor/trans in then motor bay using the rubber trans mount.
Fit the original ICE mounts to the vehicle frame in their original positions.
Work out the steel work required to join the ICE mounts to the plate bolted to the motor foot. 
Tack weld the new metalwork in place and then unbolt the plate from the motor foot and the rubber mounts from the vehicle frame and fully weld adding gussets and braces as required.
Refit to the vehicle.


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## tomcameron (Sep 24, 2011)

there is a problem. the fan case sticks far out almost to the wall. there is only a 70mm gap, so I cant fit any piece of metal throught without blocking the fan. 

the pieces of metal would have to come round the motor, it will be going right over the top holes. 

the top holes can take the wieght, I will install a tourque bar somewhere. It will cut allot of wieght out of the mount by not going all the way down to the feet.

do let me say the feet cant come off and does look a be silly with the feet hanging, but nobody has spotted it yet. Lolz


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

I wouldn't rely on just the top holes to mount the motor. They are designed for lifting just the motor when fitting it but not really for taking dynamic loads when you hit a pothole or speed bump.

I would still use the foot and take a frame around the sides of the motor to above the motor and then sideways to the rubber mounting. 
The torque bar can be fitted to one of the bell housing bolts to resist the torque. That would be the largest radius from the axis of the motor shaft.


Another idea would be to turn your motor upside down so the foot is at the top. You can then go straight from the foot to the rubber mount. It does mean the terminals are underneath but that shouldn't be an issue if you can get to them from under the car.


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## TTmartin (Feb 7, 2012)

Woodsmith said:


> Another idea would be to turn your motor upside down so the foot is at the top. You can then go straight from the foot to the rubber mount. It does mean the terminals are underneath but that shouldn't be an issue if you can get to them from under the car.


Good call from woodsmith putting motor upside down, but if you don't want connection box at the bottom you could also mount the motor so the feet are at 90degrees to the ground then fab steel work to suit


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

I guess it depends on how waterproof the engine bay is!

Side ways would work well but could make the mounting design awkward due to the torque that the weight would impose on the mounting frame, needs to be very stiff to counter that.


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## tomcameron (Sep 24, 2011)

what I could do is: get my metal parts from punchbag mounts? they can lift up to 150Kg to 200Kg. the motor is 65Kg. if I cut it to lenght, so the welder could create a frame for it. 
will this be lighter and a cheaper that angle iron? angle iron will do the job but it is very heavy.


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## tomcameron (Sep 24, 2011)

or howabout a ladder or a ladder stand

will this do the job, way cheaper than angle iron

http://www.amazon.co.uk/V-Type-Ladder-Stand-Off/dp/B005GTNYFS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_diy_2


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

You really can't be comparing stationary load ratings with motor mounts. I think you're best off using what's there. It shouldn't be too difficult to protect the terminals.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

If cost is an issue you could source your steel from a scrap yard, that is how I get pretty much all of the stock for my tractor and trike projects.

If it were me I would use square box section steel, probably 1 1/2" x 1/8" thick.

Mount the motor sideways, bolt two bits of box section to the foot mount so that they point upwards to the same height as the rubber mount. Join them at the top, with more box section, to form and inverted 'U'. Then take two more lengths of box section, to the mount, forming a triangle. Then triangulate the triangle to the upright box section near to the motor foot.

It all depends on how much space you have above the motor and if you have any plans to use that space for the controller or batteries.


I would avoid using bits of ladder or ladder stand off brackets. The aluminium, if you can weld it, is a bit on the soft side.


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## tomcameron (Sep 24, 2011)

Had a look in the engine bay and I think it would be best to turn the motor upside down and using box section. Do you think the feet would still be good to take the weight, it doesn't say in the manual to not place it upside down?
Also it would cut the wieght of the mount more than 1/2. With the motors feet faceing up it gives a flat surface for my batties to sit on.
I don't want to put the batties up front because it's dangerous in case of a crash.

thanks guys, i think that's the way to go.


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## jk1981 (Nov 12, 2010)

It's not just the motor weight you need to support, equally important is the very large gearbox output torque.

Where are the original mounts, above the gearbox, above the ICE cam drive and low on the firewall?

jk


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

I like batteries in the front, they'll go through the other guy's car before I do.


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## tomcameron (Sep 24, 2011)

of coures, I will make sure that everything is is safe, with the right mounts and torque bars.
I will get it checked so its safe to use on the road aswell.


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