# How to repair FLA Battery posts



## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

SECOND STEP: -WEAR A MASK!

Preparation of the battery is where it all is at. 

Cut off the old post with a SawzAll/SabreSaw or grinder.










Use a grinder with a stiff wire brush to do the clean-up and final surfacing.








Go easy, wear a mask and glasses. LEAD is not good to injest.

The biggest area for failure is to have your mold leak. SILICONE is awsome.








Use pure SILICONE, (not siliconized). It is extremely heat resistant. Other stuff will not be...LOL (Lots of stories about this part)....

DO NOT SKIMP. You are making a seal. Keep it from the actual bond area. 








Leave a small 1/16" gap around the inner bond area.

CONTINUED:


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion! Same bat time...same bat channel!


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Part Deus:

NOTICE: Gloves, eye protection and a stupid helper are mandatory. 

Set your kettle *1 step* from your pour site as the lead in the dipper begins cooling as soon as you lift it from the kettle. If you do two steps, you are screwed and will make a mess for nothing.

You fire up the old turkey cooker, (everyone has one sitting around)








Set it to Warp factor 10 and tell Sulu to take a break.

Tip 1: *There is no such thing as too hot* with lead. This is the only thing you have to make everything weld together. Wide open, smoking hot. 

I use wheel weights. Melt your lead. Stir for 2 minutes to re-blend the mix. (Most lead alloys separate easily) Drop in a chunk of wax or paraffin, while keeping your nose (and face) well back. Stir again to pull out impurities. Scoop off most of the surface crap. 

Enlist a brave helper (or stupid, either works.) 
Place the block/mold over the site. Press it and hold. Make sure it is flat so it will not leak....much...








This is a reenactment, as I was the holder and am not talented enough to get a 1 handed picture while dodging 400 Degree molten metal.

Dont mess around. Dip, turn, pour. Hold the dipper 1 inch above the block, the drop speed helps fill the mold and melt the lead together. If a little gets spilled, wait for the yelling to stop, then gently spray a water mist on it from a spray bottle. It will not eat through the plastic and will peal up easily.

*Hold the block for at least 1 full minute or more.* Then go on to the next.

After ten minutes or so, You can dress the top off with the grinder and wire wheel. Wear a mask. There is lead dust flying around.








After dressing the top, you can remove the block by splitting it with anything, 


Here I used a wood chizel.








Dont be real rough with it, but it should withstand this or it was a bad joint anyway.

The raw casting. You can sawzall it to height and grind it smooth easily.








Drill it with the same 5/16" drill bit.

Done.

You have a post that will withstand more than the stock 75 amps and will not melt unless you have a loose bolt.

Some HP cart guys even make a 1" X 3" X 1/8" aluminum with a hole in it to bolt onto the connection for a heat sink. 

We did about 20 posts. 20 more to go, 6 were melted, But it would be a shame to wait for them to fail domino like.

NOTE: If given a choice, I always go with the automotive Top posts. They seem to not have this problem.


There you have it. It is actually easy and beats losing a $1,800 battery pack.

My wish is that one day we all will not need to use these batteries. Until then, at least you can repair them.

Miz


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## gsmith191145 (May 1, 2011)

You make it look easy........ Thanks for the demonstration......


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

It *is* easy, once you get past the molten lead, wire brushes flying apart and the toxic lead dust in the air...LOL

Miz


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

I love the straight forward, non technical, common sense write up!

Don't have a turkey cooker though.


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