# 500lbs shipping from US to NZ? Any suggestions?



## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

This is a bit out of my immediate experience but I have shipped stuff from the UK - USA, the USA - UK and finally UK - NZ,(twice)
I contacted the bigger companies like "Pickfords" and I was surprised at how little it cost to ship a container, and by how much you can pack into a container!

The second time I shipped UK - NZ 
I didn't have as much to go and it was the minimum quantity (about 12 big cardboard boxes) for about 300 sterling
In both cases the company was not interested in the weight - just the volume

I would suggest you contact Pickfords or your local moving company
Just to see what they quote


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## Green Machines (Mar 4, 2009)

You may need to use a freight forwarder to clear customs, pay the gst, etc. I have used a few over the years, charges vary greatly. 

Most recently I've used Sneddons, they were really good, and the price was fair. They did a door-to-door service for me. Good luck.

Garry Snedden
Sneddens Airocean Services Ltd
14A Rennie Drive
P O Box 107-057
Airport Oaks
Auckland
New Zealand
64 9 2569598
64 9 2569597
www.sneddens.co.nz


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## xp_lynx (Aug 17, 2009)

Thanks Duncan and Green Machines for your replies. I'll contact both firms you mentioned and let everyone here know the outcome for their future shipping expectations and budgeting.

Just for all to know, FYI, i went with FedEx Economy Air Freight for my ~400lbs shipping and it looked something like this:


Box Sizes

No. Length Width Height DIM (Pounds)
1	18 in. (46 cm)	15 in. (39 cm)	12 in. (31 cm)	20
2	24 in. (61 cm)	12 in. (31 cm)	12 in. (31 cm)	21
3	16 in. (41 cm)	13 in. (34 cm)	13 in. (34 cm)	17
4	21 in. (54 cm)	22 in. (56 cm)	11 in. (28 cm)	31
5	14 in. (36 cm)	14 in. (36 cm)	6 in. (16 cm)	7
6	25 in. (64 cm)	14 in. (36 cm)	11 in. (28 cm)	24
7	23 in. (59 cm)	18 in. (46 cm)	12 in. (31 cm)	30
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total DIM Wt: 150.0

If the DIM weight is greater than the actual weight. You will be billed the DIM weight.

Actual Weight:	391.00
DIM Weight:	150.0
Bill Weight:	391.0 or 177.7 Kg

It cost me around $1,2000 USD  for that which i thought (and still am) that its a big ouch!!!

Considering the fact that i got a quote from a container freight forwarder in Oregon (in the US) that does something like 2100lbs of LCL to NZ for around ~$550 USD for that weight and dimensions of 1.4cbm.

A word of advise, be smart when it comes to shipping and look out for what is being charged DIM or weight depending on your items and what exactly you intend to get. Not only that, different US ports have huge variances in shipping prices. So it might apparently even pay to get road transport first to an economic shipping port and then there from to NZ.

In my case, i'm looking for those giving cheap DIM quotes irrespective of the weight. Any one know of those particularly for Oklahoma and Massachusetts? End of the day, i might just have to land transit my stuff to Oregon and get it here from there.


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## xp_lynx (Aug 17, 2009)

Ok you guys, after extensive and intense price search, the best value to money (taking into account all services (not purely only based on price) like clearances at both ends of shipping, documentation handling etc...) is the following firms:

*Schumacher Cargo Logistics *- can import a car for USD $2300 from say NY port, USA to AKL NZ with all paperwork and clearances

www.overseascarshipper.com - for USD $2,750.00, can do the same service as above (including a door to port service, thus picking it up from somewhere in the US near a port and shipping to AKL port w/ handling)

shipping-worldwide.com can offer a 500lbs sea freight service for around $1070, dirt cheap believe me. I haven't found any better or cheaper to date, based on 0.23cfm.

These are all either US or international companies so if anyone can give me a lead of a kiwi firm that can compete at a better rate/service, why not keep the money within the economy, right? I'd love for us to help out one another so if anyone has/knows a kiwi firm, i'd like to hear from you.

If anyone knows of any cheaper rates, i'd love to hear from you please. I have the same ~500lbs and an EV car coming from the US and need the best deal. I am still waiting from quotes from Allied Pickfords, Sneddons, as suggested by Duncan and Green Machines (thanks a lot guys) 

Cheers!


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## samborambo (Aug 27, 2008)

xp_lynx, I'm having trouble posting a reply to your private messages - 1000 char limit, etc. I hope you don't mind me posting this here as there's probably something others can learn too.



> Getting my complete AC drive system very very soon within (fings-crsd) 30-45 days depending on how the captain of the titanic spots NZ from a distance....lol
> 
> Looking at the new car http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=243683453 as the donor, what do you think?? Some feedback i'll be gr8! Given that the wife's gonna chill a bit and relax and stop thinking that i'm gonna wreck it  'll help make it be the donor o/w i'll have to respin the wheel of fortune to find another donor


The Pajero for around-town and commuting is probably the worst choice of vehicle to convert to electric. I'll compare it to a good choice EV donor like my Toyota MR2.

It has a CdA of 1.28 (sq. metres) compared to the MR2 having 0.53. Combine that with a weight of 2700kg after the conversion and the truck will use 25kW at highway cruising compared to 9.5kW for an MR2. Low rolling resistance tyres are not an option for an SUV either so the Crr (rolling resistance) increases a lot, combined with the weight of the vehicle, gives very poor efficiency at low speed also. I hope your AC drive is powerful because you'll need at least 100hp to retain some reasonable acceleration. The motor / controller also needs to be rated for at least 25kW/35hp continuous to maintain 100km/h. To get a firm 100km of range you'll be shelling out US$14,000 on a 42kWh lithium battery pack + duty + shipping + BMS would be around US$17,500. You could halve that cost with a better choice of vehicle. Compare that to my MR2 - I'm looking at a 26kWh battery to get close to 200km of range and at least 100kW motive power (overkill but it's a sports car).

Have you defined exactly what you want the EV for? Commuting? Off road? Impractical proof-of-concept?
Have you done any calculations on what motor, battery, donor vehicle you need?
Have you defined a set of goals for this project?


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## Green Machines (Mar 4, 2009)

I see xp_lynx bought the Pajero. 

I am in complete agreement with samborambo about the (un)suitability of that particular vehicle. The main criteria for donor selection should be:
1. Low weight
2. Low rolling resistance (ie: tyre width)
3. Low wind resistance 
4. Mechanical simplicity (ie: not 4wd or power steering) 

I'm afraid the Pajero fails spectacularly on all of these measures.


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## xp_lynx (Aug 17, 2009)

Thanks Green and Sam for your inputs. At this stage, the Pajero is one of two cars i intend to buy. (Pajero already having bought it and flying to pick it up tomorrow and sniffing around for a low-rider sportish car for a 2nd EV along the same lines as yours Sam)... give me some leads on good deals of donors on TM if you spot any, u too Green, please.

However, i hate to disagree with you guys in regards to the Pajero. Look, both of you are more experienced than i am as this is my first EV mod, and its all about it being a learning experience. I hate to have to learn things the hard way, so please, please, please, hit me on the head if i'm wrong with your comments, they are more than welcome all the time on anything, have no mercy

Although i understand that the theoretical calculations are something (a nice pinkish dream world) and the practical world (and in actual reality of things when they are implemented is something else), hopefully let us allow for a reasonable margin of error on matters. Thus, beginning with my calculations and system (refer here)... 

As for the replies to the comments above:



samborambo said:


> The Pajero for around-town and commuting is probably the worst choice of vehicle to convert to electric. I'll compare it to a good choice EV donor like my Toyota MR2.


Let me tell you below why i disagree with the above statement Sam



samborambo said:


> It has a CdA of 1.28 (sq. metres) compared to the MR2 having 0.53. Combine that with a weight of 2700kg after the conversion....


 Aaaaahhhhh... stop here for a moment Sam, my calculations show a very VEEEERRYYYY different ending curb weight, no where near that. My motor and controller are only a *138kgs*, together. The battery pack i'll be using will either be a *Ni-Cad* (Sub-D Cells) *443Kgs *for a 30kW system or a *LiFePo4 *(cylindrical cells headway,or similar brand around *330kgs *for a 30kw system). 

I'm more likely to go 37kW though??

The car's original *curb weight* *with ICE is 1970 kg* (*4343 lb*). Refer here for more of the Pajero's details( especially see under engine info of max torque which matches "nearly" my peak torque).

Thus, safely assuming that post dissection () we take out some *400-450Kgs* of engine weight of the front bay one shot, some *100~120kgs *of other misc parts (fuel tank, exhausts, radiator, other unnecessary), so i'm safe to say/assume that i still am kinda where i first started with (in terms of weight of course!) with a LifePo4 pack, slightly more approx *100Kgs *above curb with Ni-Cads.



samborambo said:


> Low rolling resistance tyres are not an option for an SUV either so the Crr (rolling resistance) increases a lot, combined with the weight of the vehicle, gives very poor efficiency at low speed also.


I've known about this problem from the start, but considering that the LRRT you mentoned only adds 7% power savings (to range, or power), i had completely ignored it in the sense i knew with an AC drive at low speeds and constant breaking, i'll end up with (my motor and KEYWORD "*boostcap capacitors"*) having around 25-30% (conservative) regen, thus my assumption that 7% spending is nothing compared to my 25-30% savings (hopefully,if you know what i mean, i could be screwed up in my head  thinking this, very possible option, correct me here if i am wrong)



samborambo said:


> I hope your AC drive is powerful because you'll need at least 100hp to retain some reasonable acceleration. The motor / controller also needs to be rated for at least 25kW/35hp continuous to maintain 100km/h.


Not in a rush, no need to push the new baby hard, i'm a "chill" driver so no issue there needing 100hp+ accelerating, i'd be very happy with 85HP (63kW) or even less, although mind you my motor can and will; while it  back at me handle 120kW(160HP) peak for a while, so yeah!!



samborambo said:


> To get a firm 100km of range you'll be shelling out US$14,000 on a 42kWh lithium battery pack + duty + shipping + BMS would be around US$17,500. You could halve that cost with a better choice of vehicle. Compare that to my MR2 - I'm looking at a 26kWh battery to get close to 200km of range and at least 100kW motive power (overkill but it's a sports car).


I'm in the mindset for somewhere on or around 30-37kWh battery bank, so not far from your estimates there on my bank, but i'm not really sure on your calculations here of the range given the battery bank size though???

What i mean to say is assume i use 25kW continuous power (motor way driving), assuming the next to impossible ridiculous scenario of non-stop from AKL to Hamilton, i believe, with a 37kW bank at 25kW consumption per hour (assuming const 25kW consumption at 100km/h driving for 1 hr) i can get a range of 37/25= 1.48 (thus 1hr 28mins driving or range of 148Km). This is of course the "perfect world scenario's calculation" in reality i'd expect 110-115Km to be on safe side (taking into account accelarations, stops, blaa blaa blaa)
 


samborambo said:


> Have you defined exactly what you want the EV for? Commuting? Off road? Impractical proof-of-concept?
> Have you done any calculations on what motor, battery, donor vehicle you need? Have you defined a set of goals for this project?


1 and 3 you mentioned above (with a big  on 3)



Green Machines said:


> The main criteria for donor selection should be:
> 1. Low weight
> 2. Low rolling resistance (ie: tyre width)
> 3. Low wind resistance
> 4. Mechanical simplicity (ie: not 4wd or power steering)


 Alright, (let me prove where my mindset is here for a second) assume all what i said above is false, so you say Green and so does Sam, and let me go with the flow and agree with you guys, the Pajero is no the one for the above reasons, fine!!!! 

Could someone PLEEEASEE explain to me how these guys achieved this kind of range (same as my target range) with this kind of system (theirs is a DC, inferior to AC "u know that"), with this heavy weight (like mine very close), with this car (same like mine more or less), with only 37kW (same as my intention.




Green Machines said:


> I'm afraid the Pajero fails spectacularly on all of these measures.


Please tell me where i went wrong so i can learn and not fall into poopoo and its too late !!


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## samborambo (Aug 27, 2008)

xp_lynx said:


> Thanks Green and Sam for your inputs. At this stage, the Pajero is one of two cars i intend to buy. (Pajero already having bought it and flying to pick it up tomorrow and sniffing around for a low-rider sportish car for a 2nd EV along the same lines as yours Sam)... give me some leads on good deals of donors on TM if you spot any, u too Green, please.
> 
> However, i hate to disagree with you guys in regards to the Pajero. Look, both of you are more experienced than i am as this is my first EV mod, and its all about it being a learning experience. I hate to have to learn things the hard way, so please, please, please, hit me on the head if i'm wrong with your comments, they are more than welcome all the time on anything, have no mercy
> 
> ...


The data I was working on was for an older Pajero at around 2300kg curb weight. The GVWR was around 2700kg which is more sensible to model for realistic conditions. I'd agree about the weight taken out from a V6 though. Running the model again with 2300kg still isn't much better.



xp_lynx said:


> I've known about this problem from the start, but considering that the LRRT you mentoned only adds 7% power savings (to range, or power), i had completely ignored it in the sense i knew with an AC drive at low speeds and constant breaking, i'll end up with (my motor and KEYWORD "*boostcap capacitors"*) having around 25-30% (conservative) regen, thus my assumption that 7% spending is nothing compared to my 25-30% savings (hopefully,if you know what i mean, i could be screwed up in my head  thinking this, very possible option, correct me here if i am wrong)


If 80% of your energy is spent in maintaining cruise speed then 7% savings from LRRTs will result in an overall energy savings of 5.6%. Leaving 20% energy used for accelerating, a savings of 25% from your (very expensive) ultracap bank regenerative braking will result in an overall 5% energy saved.

I'd invest in the LRRTs. 



xp_lynx said:


> Not in a rush, no need to push the new baby hard, i'm a "chill" driver so no issue there needing 100hp+ accelerating, i'd be very happy with 85HP (63kW) or even less, although mind you my motor can and will; while it  back at me handle 120kW(160HP) peak for a while, so yeah!!


Expect 0-100km/h in around 25 seconds at 63kW constant from 25km/h. That's tricky to maintain constant power in a manual.



xp_lynx said:


> I'm in the mindset for somewhere on or around 30-37kWh battery bank, so not far from your estimates there on my bank, but i'm not really sure on your calculations here of the range given the battery bank size though???
> 
> What i mean to say is assume i use 25kW continuous power (motor way driving), assuming the next to impossible ridiculous scenario of non-stop from AKL to Hamilton, i believe, with a 37kW bank at 25kW consumption per hour (assuming const 25kW consumption at 100km/h driving for 1 hr) i can get a range of 37/25= 1.48 (thus 1hr 28mins driving or range of 148Km). This is of course the "perfect world scenario's calculation" in reality i'd expect 110-115Km to be on safe side (taking into account accelarations, stops, blaa blaa blaa)


You'd never want to take your battery pack below 80% DOD. Combine that with an allowance of 20% energy spent in stop-n-go, cornering, etc, 100km firm is a sensible figure for 100km/h driving with the Pajero on 42kWh.



xp_lynx said:


> 1 and 3 you mentioned above (with a big  on 3)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The car you refer to in the EValbum is hardly relevant. The car was built to compete in a solar race, ie: ideal conditions. Also, there's no mention of what speed that range was acheived at. Modelling the Pajero, at 50km/h with the 42kWh pack you could get at least 250km sensible range.




xp_lynx said:


> Please tell me where i went wrong so i can learn and not fall into poopoo and its too late !!


There are many wiki pages on this forum dedicated to learning what kind of car makes a good donor. Particularly, the "Donor Car Selection" page has this link http://www.mayfco.com/tbls.htm to a bunch of cars with CdA data. I copied all the (481 cars) data out to a spreadsheet and sorted it by CdA. My MR2 ranked 12th. The Pajero (US: Montero) ranked 477th, hence my concern. For interests sake, the 1993 H1 Hummer ranked 481st with a CdA=1.6775.

Good, cheap older cars to consider ranked by CdA:

93 Mazda RX-7 0.52
91 Holden Calibra 0.52
86 Toyota MR2 0.54
91 Toyota MR2 0.54
90 Nissan 240 SX 0.55
95 Mitsubishi Eclipse 0.55
Any Series 2 RX-7 0.55

SUVs typically have a CdA >1.1

I don't have any data on anything past 1995 which is quite limiting.

I'd really appreciate it if someone had some info on later models.

Sam.


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## Green Machines (Mar 4, 2009)

xp_lynx - well done, you obviously have your eyes open. I guess my position relates to efficiency. 

No doubt you could (and yes I know many Americans have) successfully E-power a light truck for commuter use. I often think such conversions are typical of the American 'shock and awe' mindset, you know, having the biggest horns in Texas, etc. Also, they epitomise the belief that we can maintain the status quo with regard to the use of over-engineered, under-efficient vehicles. 

For me, the appeal of E-conversions, is the efficiency, the smart thinking, the clever technology, the way we can 'thumb our noses' at those who gobble more than their share of the world's resources. 

Now your Pajero has already been built (and used), so your use of it is recycling - commendable. And your finished conversion will use (mainly) hydro power to run it - again commendable. And anyone that takes on an E-conversion should be encouraged and congratulated- well done. But IMHO it's not going to be a terribly efficient set up, and the same $ could provide you with more range, and perhaps an even sumgger e-grin?

But what do I know, my E-car project is a 500kg Fiat Bambina. I wonder who will go further on a kw? Mind you, you'll have air con, radio and other such comforts. I have a folding sun roof for ventilation and gear-box whine to sing along with. 

As long as you have done your maths (which you obviously have), and you think it'll suit your situation - then I'm right behind you.


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## evlowrider (Jul 23, 2009)

The over ruling requirement for chosing a donor car imo, is to chose a car that you want to drive. Its no good getting an rx7 when u really want to take a pajero for a bit of surf casting on the beach.


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