# 5bt1362a92 forklift motor



## redcelt007 (Oct 2, 2008)

Anyone have any info about this motor? It came from a 1969 Clark forklift. It is an 11" frame and has A1 and A2 connections as well as S1, S2, and S3 connections. All GE and Clark could tell me is that it is rated for 36-48 volts. I have searched the internet and queried local motor shops to no avail. I have it installed in a 1993 Mazda B2200 pickup. It runs at 4000 rpm at 48 volts according to my optical tach. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

redcelt007 said:


> Anyone have any info about this motor? It came from a 1969 Clark forklift. It is an 11" frame and has A1 and A2 connections as well as S1, S2, and S3 connections. All GE and Clark could tell me is that it is rated for 36-48 volts. I have searched the internet and queried local motor shops to no avail. I have it installed in a 1993 Mazda B2200 pickup. It runs at 4000 rpm at 48 volts according to my optical tach. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Sounds like a series motor with a field tap. 3 S terminals. Is there a problem with it? I doubt anyone will recognize a 40 year old GE motor part number. Some pictures might draw some comments.

Regards,

major


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## redcelt007 (Oct 2, 2008)

major said:


> Sounds like a series motor with a field tap. 3 S terminals. Is there a problem with it? I doubt anyone will recognize a 40 year old GE motor part number. Some pictures might draw some comments.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> major


Thanks Major! I checked the connections with a multi meter and found no internal connections between the A terminals and the S terminals. A1 to A2 showed .2 ohms and the same for the S1 to S2 to S3. The motor will only run when wired externally in series. I'll follow your suggestion about the photos as soon as I have some to post.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

redcelt007 said:


> Thanks Major! I checked the connections with a multi meter and found no internal connections between the A terminals and the S terminals. A1 to A2 showed .2 ohms and the same for the S1 to S2 to S3.


Hi redcelt,

That is because that is as low as your meter will read. Actual resistance is much lower, like below 0.02 Ohms. Probably lower. You need a bridge to read down to the milliOhm level.

major


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## bbf3 (Apr 30, 2009)

I think i have a similar motor. just picked it up for a hundred bucks off a guy tearing apart a clark ec500-40F type E forklift. Haven't found much info yet, or messed with any wiring, but the five terminals confuse me... here's some pics of the motor and nameplate. is this motor like yours?

blake


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## redcelt007 (Oct 2, 2008)

Blake,
That is basically the same motor I have. The 7 or 8 sided section that is resting on the pallet is identical to mine. The connections are also in the same location. The other end (pointing up) is different, however. Does the 7 or 8 sided end have a large helical type gear on the shaft? Mine had one until I had a machine shop mill it off to a 30mm diameter to accomodate a standard size bearing. If you need to alter that end of the shaft, the armature should be capable of removal from the shaft with a press. I have mine mounted in my truck and my connections are as follows:

A1 to battery +
A2 to S3 or S2
S1 to battery -

That got mine turning in a clockwise direction for the transmission. You are fortunate to have a plate with part numbers. Mine had no plate.


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## bbf3 (Apr 30, 2009)

that shaft end is actually an E-brake mechanism around the end of the second shaft.... the other (facing down in pic) shaft is splined...

blake


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## bbf3 (Apr 30, 2009)

do you find the 48 volt setup sufficient for running your pickup? are you planning to increase voltage? what kind of top speed/distance do you get if you've been road driving? 

sorry for all the questions, i'm excited someone else has the same motor.


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## redcelt007 (Oct 2, 2008)

I haven't driven mine much because of some controller issues. I'm trying to build my own. That's why I have issues. What I have seen are speeds of 35 to 40 mph in city driving. My optical tach indicates 4000 rpm at 48 volts with the transmission in neutral. I installed my motor with a stock clutch and flywheel. I prefer to shift gears. Don't yet know what I'll get in 4th and 5th. That Mazda has a LOW first gear. Once I get a better controller set up, I'll be driving more. What vehicle are you installing yours in?


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## bbf3 (Apr 30, 2009)

'85 fiero... so far, just have the car and the motor.


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## bbf3 (Apr 30, 2009)

redcelt007 said:


> I have mine mounted in my truck and my connections are as follows:
> 
> A1 to battery +
> A2 to S3 or S2
> ...


So that basically means you're wiring the two coils in series, right? I hear that that is weaker overall. Ive been reading about shunt wound motors (pretty sure thats what we've got) and if you use a separately excited motor controller, instead of series, you can get regenerative braking, higher motor efficiencies, and better torque curves.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

bbf3 said:


> Ive been reading about shunt wound motors (pretty sure thats what we've got)


Hey bbf3,

See post #2. I don't think that is a shunt motor.

Regards,

major


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## bbf3 (Apr 30, 2009)

major said:


> Sounds like a series motor with a field tap. 3 S terminals. Is there a problem with it? I doubt anyone will recognize a 40 year old GE motor part number. Some pictures might draw some comments.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> major


I see. Major, could you explain this in a couple of sentences because I'm having a hard time finding much info on the web about this type of motor. How is it different from a plain series and a sepex? 

Does it need a particular type of controller? Are there advantages/disadvantages over regular series wound?

Any info you could give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Blake


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

bbf3 said:


> I see. Major, could you explain this in a couple of sentences because I'm having a hard time finding much info on the web about this type of motor. How is it different from a plain series and a sepex?


Hi Blake,

I have seen other motors of the tapped field design. I have not seen this one, so cannot be certain it is. But there is a high probably it fits. So take it for what it's worth.

It is a series wound motor. Verify by taking field resistance measurements. At S1, S2, S3. Series fields are on the order of millOhms. So a multimeter on the resistance scale won't give an accurate measurement. But if it shows like 0 to .2 Ohms, it is a series field. A shunt field will read in the 100's of Ohms and a sepex field in the 10's of Ohms.

So a tapped series field is where 3 terminals are used instead of the usual 2 (S1 & S2). The third terminal provides a method to energize only part of the field winding, usually half, but not necessarily. This is a method by which the application can employ field weakening without the use of an external shunting resistor. I cannot tell which terminals (S1, S2, S3) are for full field or half field. I could if I could see the inside of the frame. But from here, no.

And, it is not possible for me to tell (form here with the data at hand) which would be the preferred connection for you. It is very likely that however you hook it up (as a series motor, field in series with armature) it will perform well for you.

Ideally, you could use full field for starting as that gives you the most torque per amp. And then switch to half field for cruising which gives you a little higher speed and a little less field heat. Efficiency wise, only maybe a percent or two difference between the two modes. Hope that is enough for ya.



> Does it need a particular type of controller?


Standard series motor controllers will do just fine.



> Are there advantages/disadvantages over regular series wound?


As explained above. Using the field tap requires an extra full current rated contactor. And in an EV with shifting tranny, probably won't be worth the trouble, IMO.

Regards,

major


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## redcelt007 (Oct 2, 2008)

I don't know if this will help in identifying the tap, but on my motor the S1 and S2 are grouped closed to each other. The S3 is that lone terminal near the A2 connector. At this time I have the A2 connected to the S3 via a .5 ohm current shunt for metering. Battery - is connected to the S1 with nothing connected to S2.


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## bbf3 (Apr 30, 2009)

redcelt007 said:


> I don't know if this will help in identifying the tap, but on my motor the S1 and S2 are grouped closed to each other. The S3 is that lone terminal near the A2 connector. At this time I have the A2 connected to the S3 via a .5 ohm current shunt for metering. Battery - is connected to the S1 with nothing connected to S2.



On my motor which literally just came out of a forklift, the middle S terminal (S2 I believe), appears to have never been hooked up. The other four terminal bolts are loose and relatively clean, while S2 is completely tightened down and has a layer of grime over it. So it appears that S2 (again the middle, not the lone, S connection), was not used to drive the forklift.


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## Matej (Dec 4, 2015)

major said:


> Hi Blake,
> 
> I have seen other motors of the tapped field design. I have not seen this one, so cannot be certain it is. But there is a high probably it fits. So take it for what it's worth.
> 
> ...


Sorry to bump this thread from years ago, but how can one tell which terminal is used for full power?

If unsure, could both terminals be connected in series to A2 (A2-S3-S2) or in parallel (S2-A2-S3)? Or is that a big NO?

Thank you.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Matej said:


> Sorry to bump this thread from years ago, but how can one tell which terminal is used for full power?
> 
> If unsure, could both terminals be connected in series to A2 (A2-S3-S2) or in parallel (S2-A2-S3)? Or is that a big NO?
> 
> Thank you.


Unless you want to open up the motor, you'll have to try different connections. Secure it. Use a 6 or 12V battery. Get an ammeter. Look for proper rotation and lowest current. 

major


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## Matej (Dec 4, 2015)

major said:


> Unless you want to open up the motor, you'll have to try different connections. Secure it. Use a 6 or 12V battery. Get an ammeter. Look for proper rotation and lowest current.


Opening it up is not a problem, since I will need to clean it out anyway.
What should I look for once it is open?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Matej said:


> Opening it up is not a problem, since I will need to clean it out anyway.
> What should I look for once it is open?


Take detailed photos and draw wiring diagram of how they're connected and coil winding direction. Likely you'd want to check polarity with compass.

major


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## Matej (Dec 4, 2015)

Sorry to bump this once again, but could the unused fifth terminal somehow be taken advantage of for electric reverse?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Matej said:


> Sorry to bump this once again, but could the unused fifth terminal somehow be taken advantage of for electric reverse?


There is what is called a split series motor in which one field is used for forward and the other for reverse. Yours would most likely need reconnection of the coils inside.

major


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## Matej (Dec 4, 2015)

major said:


> There is what is called a split series motor in which one field is used for forward and the other for reverse.


That sounds interesting.

My thinking was that if the fifth terminal only delivers partial torque, it could be useful for reverse so the car would accelerate backwards more tamely.
It would still require a reversing contactor, it would just need to be connected differently somehow.


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