# 12 Volt system not starting/draining Chinese EV Greatland controller



## Utah_Germany (Sep 17, 2015)

Hello,

did you get any further with you problem meanwhile?
(we know this post is aged somehow now...)

Best regards.


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## kotzilla (Sep 4, 2015)

Thanks for following up. Maybe I expressed it in an overly complicated way.

It is still not working, but I learned and researched a bit (I am not at all a car repair guy, but I am not afraid of wires and voltmeter and with Google Translate I even read Chinese  ).

My idea is that the DC-DC converter is acting up. Big problem is I can't find it! I don't see it under the hood, it is not under the steering wheel either.

I have no manual for my car, but luckily the AC Charger TCCH-96-18 (http://www.tccharger.com/english/Product/T34/28.html) got one. And this manual happens to be a combo manual that includes info about the TDC-320-12IG DC-DC converter. And there I can see that there is a supposedly yellow cable that runs through the ignition switch to the battery plus.
If this cable connection is broken this would explain why my car doesn't budge on key turn and even if bridged that the 12V 20Ah battery (and thus power steering, lights, wipers) runs empty quickly.

Anyway now I need to find that sucker  I am still hesitant to remove the big batteries, or the greatland controller, which might require removing the front spoiler/bumper etc.

What confused me somewhat that the manual said that the DC-DC-converter has an input voltage of 280-380V, while my car runs on 96 V. Is that common, or is the manual maybe not a match? TCCharger has also DC-DC with an input of 96V.

Thanks!

PS: I think I located it, but it's buried under the batteries, which are a major procedure to remove. Will get some help these days. It was hot despite the car being "off" - no key, only the main switch was on. Should be a good sign that I am at the right location.


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## Utah_Germany (Sep 17, 2015)

Hello,

matter with Baoya cars is, that several backyard companies copied these cars and brought it out as Baoyas, but some solutions are really different from original Baoya design.
So please apologize for beginning many of the following sentences with phrases "generally" and "normally", since your very car may differ from those we know here.
Even more, this Baoya EV03 is a conversion from chinese petrol car Changan Mini, with is at least helpful for you to find all spare parts not regarding the electric drive train, but some changes may even result from Changan's design changes during series production.

About DC/DC converter:
Baoya normally uses converters like these:
http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/view/pic0017zq3jk7y9e0.jpg
This one has 2, one is additional for aircondition (its a Baoya02):
http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/view/pic00189kzruxs1y3.jpg
We only have this reference picture of EV03s motor bay, were we find again DC/DC converter in a "normal" position:
http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/view/dscf1226w2i4cyfoxg.jpg
But you do not have to locate it, when finishing the following simple test:
generally DC/DC converter recharges the secondary 12V battery during drive mode, sourcing power from 96V main battery.
Therefore, DC/DC brings out approx 13.8 Volt when shifted.
So secondary battery shows some 12.xV at Voltmeter in standby mode, and 13.8V in drive mode.
If you can measure more than 13V at 12V batt. poles in drive mode, DC/DC conv. probably works well!
If not, this unit may have failed.
The mentioned TC Charger is high-end DC/DC for Lithium battery voltages at 320V, this one is quite surely not used for 96V Baoyas. 
You definitely look for one or more units labelled with "96V->12V", if necessary. Generally, such are from third-party manufacturers.

How did you manage to reload 12/20A battery meanwhile? By extra charging tool? Under some circumstances, it may be defective also.

Normally the Baoyas come with antitheft module: this relay inhibits motor start, power steering and brake assist system (again, generally...), and it can be bridged with the described jump cable action with +12V connected to somewhere-near-"ignition".
Do you have this problem: no start/ready shifting, no steering and brake help, but all lights and instruments working in dashboard?
If yes, your antitheft may cause problem. It is normally triggered by remote control of key, or key itself. And it has non-documented extra fuse in its own power line.
- check key and RC
- check for antitheft: if not installed, forget next
- locate antith. module (generally located behind drivers dashboard, rather below steering or close to fuse box)
- check fuse, this one may be very hard to find up to windshield, you will see parts of your car you never knew.

GENERALLY, Baoyas workmanship of all electrical connections is more than poor; even if you find all parts and fuses being o.k., double-check ALL relevant connectors, plugs, cables etc. , as we found unconnected terminals, lose cables, flying contacts and slipped-"this looked tight!"-connections more than 20 times in Baoyas, causing funniest things.

Hope you get it, if not, describe what you found,

best regards

Utah Motors


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## kotzilla (Sep 4, 2015)

Hi,
Wow I am not the only being with this car out there! I knew they had to be somewhere!  Thanks for your very informative reply!

I understand that photo 1 is the underneath view of photo 3, right? This thing I thought is the "aircon-brain" - as I said I am not a car mechanic. It turns to action (fans) once I start the aircon.

The 3rd photo (yellow car) is btw exactly how my car looks like. I suspect my DC-DC converter being underneath the two batteries. I can see a large cooling grill below them and to my surprise it was almost hot, master power switch on (thus only the battery level indicator on), all dash lights off no ignition key, no jump cable (after two hours in that state). Fact that it is hot, it could mean it is still alive? Or is it in short-circuit mode?

Yes, when it was new, I had to exchange basically all fuse sockets (the ones for those large "classic" fuses) in the car against ceramic ones, as the fuses jumped loosely around in those. So I had some funny effects (motor turning off while driving, air-con off, power brakes off) in the first two months of owning the car, but once those were fixed, it was running smoothly for two years.
Therefore I am still hoping that I maybe still missed a fuse socket or connection somewhere, which might do the BAT+ IGN connection of the DC-DC converter. On the TC Charger website some installation diagrams suggest a 20A fuse on the ignition-DC-DC circuit.

Regarding your test: My battery feels disconnected from the DC-DC-Charger, even if I "jump" the car on, the voltage remains unchanged and keeps on going down the more I use the car. Once the EPS warning light comes on, the screen wiper start shivering, lights dim etc.
I do charge the 12V battery currently with a solar panel while parking the car at home.
I also bought a new 12V battery to rule out a weak battery.

No I don't think I have an anti-theft problem. My lights are all off until I activate the jump cable and once I do, the car behaves normally except the 12V battery charging. I am still using it every day, but sometimes I have to hurry home, especially in the evening (rain, dark).

I have two solo fuses in that area, one directly attached to the steering wheel and the other high up in the back, they should be ok. Is the anti-theft module a small unlabled black plastic box that has a single wide connector with 6 or 8 wires (forgot) and tiny "reset" button next to and something like an antenna (a cable) scotch taped on the outside of the box?

Well it really boils down that I need to follow that cable from the DC-DC converter to the ignition or better yet do a test on the DC-DC-converter, if it still provides 13 Volts. But I get a mechanic for that, cheap here in the Philippines.
If the DC-DC is ok, it might be easier to just run another new wire to the IGN/Bat+ than locating the original one.

Thanks again for your help!


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## kotzilla (Sep 4, 2015)

Just as a small update: We got the batteries out and found two more fuses, one of them burned. There are two (!) ipDCIS 9612 (iGreatway brand as it seems) converters, one of them seems wet throughout.

I am somewhat surprised to find two units as the aircon has another one - the longish one in you photo. Anyway I have to import now and will keep this topic updated, for future reference of other readers.


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## Utah_Germany (Sep 17, 2015)

Great to hear that you are on best way: we never heared and believed that Baoya could place 3 converters into car, and into such location.
But it seems that you have got it.
Our pictures showed different cars (sorry for bad image quality); nr. 1 Shows T-King model, were 1 (silver) converter unit works well for whole car.
Next Picture was a Baoya with 2 converters, the "better" one for A/C, and the other looks like ipDCIS also.

Baoya seems to have taken 2 of weak ipDCIS to bring out enough power for car's standards, strange idea and really Baoya style...

It might be a better idea to replace both by a powerful new one, there are many offers now, if repair does not work anymore.

Hope it works well again soonest,
best regards.


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## kotzilla (Sep 4, 2015)

Well, let's hope it's over soon. Thinking about it yes, I should have just gotten a bigger DC-DC unit. But I was quick in ordering the same, maybe also to save me from understanding how their parallel wiring works 

I tried to google for T-king but didn't find the device or company. Is there any other name for it? Would be interested how much load it can take, wiring diagram etc. Just in case I make it the sole DC-DC converter (I am even willing to opt out the air-con, as we live in the cool highlands). Anyway, I can remove the unit from the car and check the label later, so don't do any further effort on it unless you remember more.

I guess they have not thought about a bigger DC-DC-converter, as the aircon is a rare add-on option of the car, that is probably not so common in China. So, as they add an aircon, they need add more converter power and are maybe lazy in removing/rewiring the cheaper IPDCIS.

Wie immer: Vielen Dank!


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## Utah_Germany (Sep 17, 2015)

Sorry for not replying earlier:
T-King is another EV car brand from China, but not a DC/DC converter brand.


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## kotzilla (Sep 4, 2015)

Hi,
The new IPDCIS arrived yesterday. It is a newer version with a new casing design. We removed the old one today (once again we had to squeeze out those heavy batteries and mounting bracket to get there...) and the old IPDCIS was releasing about 100ml of burn-smelling water. The new converter had the same mounting holes and was a few mm slimmer, which helped greatly. The car worked immediately! Happy end!
Thanks to Utah, you may claim your free beer(s) in the southern Philippines any time 
Cheers!


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