# 2006 Chevy AvEo with AC50/Curtis 1238 Build



## tomofreno (Mar 3, 2009)

Seems like a nice car for conversion, though I haven't looked closely at space for batteries, etc. I lusted after them while I was looking for a car to convert, but they were more than I wanted to pay for a donor. I ended up with a 2001 Suzuki Swift with the AC50/Curtis (see the build thread here "SwiftE", also in the garage, and on www.evalbum.com/3060, also see JRP3's Fiero build with an AC31). Finished ev weight is about 2250 lb. 

I'm surprised that since you were willing to pay $4500 for a donor you aren't going with LiFePO4 cells to keep the battery weight and volume down. Both JRP3 and I are using higher voltage, nominal 115V (36 nominal 3.2V cells), and HPEVS is using 108V on the Wheego Whip Life. A 96V pack will not have as good of acceleration, especially at 2600 lb, but maybe you don't need much. Should make a nice ev with such a late model car in good shape.


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## electrabishi (Mar 11, 2008)

For the price I think you can do what you are planning. Just as a point of reference I built a Mitsubishi Mightymax near 6 years ago with a WarP9, Zilla 1K, PFC-20 charger and Deka Intimidator battereis for just over $12k. $1k was for the donor. And I was able to get the 35 miles you are estimating. So it is possible. And if you could find a less expensive donor you could do it with the components you describe for a lot less 

http://www.evalbum.com/756

Mike


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## Jesse67 (May 12, 2009)

Sounds good and you have reasonable goals which is very good! You're getting yourself a nice motor, why put it in a $1000 car? Your choice of a late model vehicle is a good one, it will look nice and should also have a decent ride and hopefully won't rattle around allowing you to enjoy your EV silence without a bunch of extra noises all of a sudden becoming aperent. There is certainly a lot of value in a good starting vehicle, nice seats and interior, doors and windows work properly etc etc. You do want to enjoy driving this thing after your done.

I would recomend keeping the clutch with the AC motor to allow easy down shifting for regen braking.

Good luck!

Jesse


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

Thanks for the responses! I am probably making the classic "style over substance" decision. First I want it to be a car that I want to drive. $1k of batteries and a $4000 car(after selling the ICE) vs a $1K car and $5k for batteries and BMS.
Tomofreno I have casually studied your build of SwiftE more than any other so far and have been very impressed with it. Fantastic! It seems that the batteries were the most complicated part of the build at least to a newbie like me. I just don't think I am smart enough for the new batteries. I appreciate your input and could well upgrade after living with it a while, but with a convenient watering system and a 350lb pudge factor I might at least try the lead sled approach for my first pack. As I said I might very well repeat the build a few times.
I may well have to cut the rear seat perch(pretty sure that where the gas tank currently resides) to get a flat rear compartment (cutting torch time) as those 8vs are tall, but we can weld in some supports for the box and the weight will be low and well located. 
Are you satisfied with the power brake vacuum pump solution? Seems expensive but not as much as not being able to stop.
I have a fairly hilly terrain but not really any long ascents so regen maybe can squeeze me a couple of miles. If my DoDs remain OK I would love to add HVAC later as I live in Nashville,TN and climate is an issue.
Again I really appreciate your help!


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## tomofreno (Mar 3, 2009)

> ...but with a convenient watering system...


Flooded lead acid can be trouble - corrosion, forgetting to keep filled, fumes/outgassing...AGMs would be more convenient if you go with lead acid. The LiFePO4 may sound complex, but they are not really. You just have to avoid the exponential part of the charge/discharge curves. So charge to 95% or so (about the start of the exponential rise part of the curve), and discharge to about 30% SOC. Set the limit voltage on your charger to do the former, and use an Ah gauge like the TBS, Evision, or Dimitri's new one as your "fuel" gauge to do the latter. A simple bms like the minibms will provide added protection from over-charging or over-discharging a cell. But maybe lead acid will fit your needs.

The regen will add very roughly around 10-15% range I think, depending of course on type of driving. If you want to add air conditioning and carry 4 or 5 people in a 2600 lb car, the AC50/Curtis may be a bit sluggish in acceleration, expecially with 96 Volt.


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

Again thanks for the response. I agree that there are many tradeoffs with the battery decision. I hope to minimize the watering chore with a Flow-Rite device and will have a sealed aluminum box vented outside the car for fumes for the rear battery bank.
Th weight is the biggest downer and and just going to work around 816lbs for the 16,320watt 8v pack. I asked about adding more volts but not recommended by Curtis with FLAs as the 8vs can be possibly charged to 10v. I am going to lose the rear seats thus max passengers of 2 and wait on the air decision till I see how the car behaves.
Obviously the battery choice is driven chiefly by cost. I want a repeatable build and can see some interest from friends, family, employees, etc. for a $15k 60mph 25mile range car. $20k for 65mph 40mile range less interest as a waiting for a Nissan Leaf starts to make real sense.
Speaking of AC is the grassrootsEV Blue solution ($900 for the unit and AC adapter) is best option?


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

some people use the cars stock AC compressor and set up by running it off either the motor's tail shaft or an additional small acc motor (like from a treadmill).


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

*Ac motor for Compressor pump*

I like the idea of a separate motor for driving the stock system. Any links to information to size the motor required?
Thanks


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

Would a 90v DC 2.0 to 2.5hp motor coming off the 96V pack work?


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

*Underway*

I picked up the donor Aveo today. I bought 3 Peugeot/Landrover brake vacuum pumps(shipping from UK much more than cost of pumps). I am purchasing a DC treadmill motor 2.8hp @130VDC should be around 2hp with 1500w draw @ 96V. This will drive the stock AC compressor/stock power steering pump/ and brake vacuum pump.
I talked to grassrootsEV today for the AC50/Curtis and should get that on the way to get me fully committed.


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

The 2.8 hp 130VDC motor came in today. Nice and only 9.8lbs without the 5lb flywheel. Brake vacuum pump only 2.65lbs and looks to do the job. The donor had some paintwork,new wheels, and shocks this week and I hope to de-ice this coming week. Pics to follow.


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

*Battery Decision*

I am rethinking my 8V battery decision and going to 6Vs. Although 8s should take care of most of my range needs I would like a bit of room. For a 192lb weight gain I can gain 6KW of storage and have 35-40 miles of range at 50-60%DOD.
I am thinking 16 US Battery 2200XCs with 232AH 20hr. My planned weight will be now be 2800lbs still leaving a useful load of 600 to be under the gross weight rating for the vehicle. My wife and I come in at 420 with me 10 to lose. Not expecting a swift car but I have others for that.
I believe I can manage 6 in the front with 3 over the AC-50 and 3 low and in front of the motor. The remaining 10 will be 4 in the passenger footwell and 2 rows of 3ea still low with the rear seat perch cut out and fore of the rear axle.


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

Check sent to GrassrootsEV for AC50/Curtis 1238 and a contactor and order placed for 16 Trojan T-105s. With a better Peukert #, solid reputation, and a decent enough deal from the local distributor decided not to pinch too many pennies so hail Trojans.
After having the car a bit and being able to measure for battery placement I will be able to save the rear seat it appears. The seat sits on a perch over the gas tank and I can sink 6 there. A bit aft of that there is a cross member and directly behind I can get 4 there and still be fore of the centerline of the rear wheels. I can get 3 next to the firewall and the remaining 3 low where the current radiator resides. My only possible passengers will be my dog or small children. 80% of time just me. 
The CG will definitely move toward the rear which is not ideal for a front driver but still should be front biased. If the commercials for the car with four NBA players getting in it is true, the rear seats are design for at least 500lbs and the gas tank full of fuel and mufflers/exhaust another 150lbs. So the 620lbs of batteries should be within design limits.
I have a friend that is a Volvo dealer and he has a bay I can use to deice along with better equipment to do it. Hopefully it goes in tommorow.


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

*Pics of "Coprtop"*


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I'll be interested to see how this performs with the LA pack. I kind of liked the look of the Aveo, you should change it to EVao or something . Good luck with the build.


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

How about aEVo?:
The design is solid Ital Design studios by Guigiaro just not so brilliantly executed by Daewoo. Thanks for looking in on me as I need help.


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## tomofreno (Mar 3, 2009)

*Re: Pics of "Coprtop"*

I like the way the rear seat is hinged - would give easy access to cells. If mine had been fastened like that I likely would have set the battery box a bit lower and kept the back seat. Doesn't seem to be much room between the seat front and the rear suspension though. Any photos, measurements of this space? I like the looks of the Aveo, and thought they would make a nice electric car - if there is enough space for batteries.


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

*Back from journey to Scandanavia and on the job*

Should be getting motor and controller in this week or next. I was able to get the new AC50 with the double shaft by waiting a few weeks so I am planning to run the power steering pump and brake vacuum pump off the main motor. The 2.8hp DC motor will then be dedicated to the AC compressor only and only switched on when AC is in operation yet be able to cool when the car is stopped.
As far as battery placement I am planning to go under the rear seat with 6 T105s in the hump area that you see where the gas tank currently resides. There is a steel crossmember for the rear suspension under the car behind that and I plan 4 behind it where the spare tire area is. The floor height may be up about an 1 1/2 inches but still be a flat floor. I have the capacity to weld the trays in either steel or aluminum and am thinking of enclosures of .100 thick FRP. It wears like iron but I am unsure if the batteries get hot enough to melt or burn them. Any experience here would be appreciated.
I decided to wait on the de-ice till the AC50 arrives since the car actually is pretty fun to drive.


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## rillip3 (Jun 19, 2009)

Your Aveo looks so much different than the Aveos I have seen in NA. This is what ours looks like, and it's a total peice of #$^#%^&.










On the inside it's just very very cheaply made. Your interior looks a lot better than what I've seen in the NA Aveos. Why would Chevy make such a lame vehicle to sell in their own country, and make a better car with the same name for export? Go figure, that's GM for you.  Sounds like you're making good progress and planning, I hope the actual work turns out that nice for you!


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

Your picture is of the "newer" designed sedan. The hatchback is better but as with most updated mid life cycle facelifts an abomination of the original design. My interior is quite simple and plain but at least clean and not too cheap looking. The new bling bling is just awful in my opinion. GM has a new deign for next year that actually is kinda cool but the new Ford Focus and Festiva will probably smoke it.


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## Anaerin (Feb 4, 2009)

belair said:


> Your picture is of the "newer" designed sedan. The hatchback is better but as with most updated mid life cycle facelifts an abomination of the original design. My interior is quite simple and plain but at least clean and not too cheap looking. The new bling bling is just awful in my opinion. GM has a new deign for next year that actually is kinda cool but the new Ford Focus and Festiva will probably smoke it.


I think you mean the new Ford Fiesta (Not the Festiva, those were an unholy union of a Ford and a Kia). They've been around in Europe for years, and it's good to finally see a decent Ford car follow the Focus across the pond (And be called a Ford. Let's not forget the "Merkur XR4Ti").


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## mrcshbs (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi,

It's kind of late... I just saw this post..

I did an Aveo while back

check at:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/garage/cars/292


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## belair (May 24, 2010)

FANTASTIC JOB!!!! You are the get it done quy I had hoped to be. Still have the Aveo with ICE sitting in my garage and the double shaft AC50/Curtis combo still in the crate. I have had 2 other builds and no spare time since I got them and will either get started or sell them both in the next couple of months.
I really thought this could be a successful platform with accessories. Thanks for proving it! I really want to study your build for battery placement and such.


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## mrcshbs (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi, 

Sure, I will be happy to share it with you... believe me, this aveo turned out like a BMW, everythig fits really nice and tight.

I was able to fit 24 - 6 Volt batteries in this car... hahahha, but when you first look inside, you have no idea where they all are... it looks a factory EV...

BUT, if I had to it over again, I would not use 6V batteries, even though I was able to fit them all inside, they are REALLY heavy... believe me!! which affects the range... it drives GREAT with a 1000 amp controller and the acceleration is AWESOME... 

but if you have extra few bucks (which I didn't have at the time of the built) I would go with a 288V conversion using a Soliton1 controller.. and you can still use the Warp 9 Motor at 144V.

The controller can be programmed to only output 170 volts so it won't hurt your motor, but you pull half of the amps.

For this aveo, since I can't afford lithium, I would go with 24 AGM batteries, about 75 AH - 12V ... just to make the pack lighter.

or of course, go all the way, with 288V, 100 AH Lithium pack... that would be ultimate.

send me an email at [email protected]

thanks

Marcos


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