# Converting Yamaha FZR600



## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Maybe dont go for a golf cart because they dont have a drive end motor frame. Thats supplied by the golf cart gearbox which you wont be using.
Unless you can make a motor mount frame that has a bearing in it.


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## Torkrench (Aug 10, 2011)

Yeah, I was looking at that... I could make a bearing holder and come up with a shaft for the motor, but that seems like way too much work for a system that won't end up in there permanently... My energy would be better spent using the right components...

Now, I hadn't though about it earlier, but I have some connections with forklift/manlift companies. I hadn't thought about forklift systems, but is there any reason I couldn't use the motor *and* speed controller from a forklift? I know the motor would work, though I'd have to get the specs... But is there any reason the speed controller wouldn't work?


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

If you can get a forky motor for free, yeah but forget about a forky controller.
this stuff is going to be heavy,think about a Mars dc motor with alu cases
much better for a bike


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## Torkrench (Aug 10, 2011)

That makes sense. I'm hoping to find a motor for free, but we'll see what happens with that. I've been working on a basic overall wiring diagram of how everything will be connected. What do you all think of this? 

The battery disconnect will be a removable key style battery disconnect easily accessible from outside the bike when I want to store it with the electronics completely disconnected. The ignition switch will be the standard key switch on the bike and the run/stop is the switch on the handle bars which now I realize is connected to the grip throttle assembly. Do they make Potentiometer style grip throttles with a switch built in? I'd like to keep that as my contactor control, that way I can turn the key on which will turn on accessories as well as provide power to the precharge resistor before switching on the run switch.

Also, what does the contactor coil use for the B- side? I'm assuming it's not chassis ground because I'm pretty sure chassis ground isn't going to be the battery ground, right? Of course by chassis ground I mean the bike frame.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

fuse the DC-DC input, and make sure the disconnect and the "ignition" are rated for 48VDC. Make sure you have an isolated DC-DC converter.

Don't ground anything to the frame at all. It makes it difficult to work on the bike. Although at 48V you're not at much risk, higher voltages when you upgrade could be issues. the contactor coils go from B+ to B-, the contactor contacts go in between the B+ of the battery and B+ of the controller. 


If you want, I have a friend that has a motor for sale. it's a K91-4003 motor by Advanced DC. Tons of torque and a good RPM and a HP between 25-35, depending on how many volts you go. It's barely been used. He's parting out a project.


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## Torkrench (Aug 10, 2011)

Frodus:
Good call on the ignition switch voltage capacity. I don't think the voltage would be much of an issue, but I don't think that it will handle the current that it will see with that configuration. I'll have to adjust a few things on the diagram to compensate for that. The +48V feed to the contactor should be after the battery disconnect and before the ignition switch. That means I'll have to feed the precharge resistor differently, but that shouldn't be a problem. I'll probably use the same feed as the DC-DC converter.

I did leave out a few things on this diagram because it's so early on in the build. I figured the DC-DC converter would have a fuse on the input, and if not I'd just put one on the +48V side. I'll update the diagram and repost later.

I might be interested in the motor your friend is selling. PM me with the price if you don't want to list it here.

I'm still wondering where the contactor coil gets it's B- from though.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

yeah, you don't want your ingition switch inline with the contactor contacts to feed the controller.

You want B+, fuse, contactor contacts, Controller B+. Precharge resistor is always on. The controller doesn't use hardly any current once the capacitors are charged inside the controller. No reason to switch. They go across the contactor contacts.

Then you want a separate circuit from B+ through a switch, to the enable pin on the controller. It all depends on the what the controller wants. 


The contactor coil could be on the same feed as the enable pin, so Contactor Coil + goes to the same place as the Enable pin. The Contactor coil - goes to B- (same place as B- on the controller).


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## Torkrench (Aug 10, 2011)

You don't think it's an issue to have the precharge resistor always fed power(as long as the battery disconnect is on). I would think that if I was to park the bike somewhere for a couple of hours and turn off the key, but not the battery disconnect, it would have a significant affect on my battery voltage. Would it not?

As for the additional switchable power to the DC-DC converter, I figured I'd leave that off until I knew exactly what I was going to use. It looks like some don't have a switchable input and others do. I'll update that once I decide which model I will be using. I also need to look at the ignition switch on the bike and see how many separate sets of contacts it has. Hopefully it will have enough and I won't have to start using relays for everything. That would just double the wiring needed and I'm trying to keep it as clean as possible.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Tork,

it depends on what controller you use. Most manufactures i've seen have the precharge always on. it's not switched. It doesn't drain any power once the controller is precharged. It wouldn't drain enough, even overnight. For months at a time, use the disconnect. They're designed this way.

Just PM'd you. I'd get it if I had a need for it.


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## Torkrench (Aug 10, 2011)

I got your pm and I'm going to check the specs on the motor and see what the performance would be at 48V. I'm tempted to go higher voltage, but I'm just not looking for a rocket. It's just going to be to cruise around on nice days. It might be just what I need. Where is the motor located? I'm in Central Cal.

Here's the updated diagram. It still doesn't have some of the smaller components listed, just the basic overview of how things will be connected.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Motor is in Washington, I could pick it up and ship from Portland while I'm up there the weekend after next. Just let me know.

It's a great motor, just figured I'd mention it. I'm not making money, I'll just hook you up with him. It's good HP, good torque. What you don't want, is something sluggish and wish you had more "pick up". 

I used the same one on 72V and it was great, and I wasn't building for speed before..... now I am. He just never used this motor, so he's selling.


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