# 1995 BMW 328i SE Conversion (NZ)



## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

I'm doing a '96 bmw 316 myself and i can say both the bently and haynes manuals are rubbish. I'll give you a few pointers that i found. Firstly , pull the engine and gearbox as one unit. Forget removing the gearbox on its own. If you have the rubber coupler between the drive shaft and gearbox you'll need an 18mm deep socket , knuckle joint , 18mm spanner and a long power bar to shift the 3 clinch bolts. I couldnt stop the engine from turning even with the handbrake on so i removed the plugs and filled the cylinders with oil. Not an option for yourself as you want to sell the engine so i'd have a friend in the driver seat with both feet on the brake pedal.

Fuel tank removal is real fun. Forget the manuals unless you *really* want to sell the tank. Remove the driveshaft and disconnect the handbrake cables and pull them through. Then inside the car remove the back seat and the two hatches and cut everything in sight. Under the car chop the straps (forget trying to undo the bolts they will be rusted solid) then undo the center bolt. Tank will sit on the two trailing arm bushes. Get a good stout rope and wrap it around the center of the tank. Then get a few friends and go tug of war on its ass! Tank will fold in the center and squeeze out past the bushes. Emptying the tank is best done prior to engine removal by connecting a hose to the high pressure line at the fuel rail and holding the fuel pump relay closed with a croc clip. Be warned i did this and thought the tank was empty. Well it was except for the 4 gallons of fuel it still contained!

Not sure how much of this will apply to yourself but hope it helps. I have a few vids on youtube may be a help.


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## CroDriver (Jan 8, 2009)

Hi.

A BMW 3-series is a great donor!

I'm converting a E30

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28287

If you'll use a Kostov, I can make you all the motor-to-gearbox adapter parts you need




























I can post photos of the finished parts later, I don't have them on this PC

Good luck!


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## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

I think 3 series BMW's make great cars to convert. 

Not sure about all the trouble described in removing the tank. Mine came out very easy. But then again none of the bolts on mine were rusted. 

Good luck with the swap and I'll second the Bently manual being not very good. They haynes manual is ok (for the money) but does not cover much in depth.

If you haven't pulled the motor yet one tip I can give you is to leave the entire harness connected to the motor/trans until out of the car (just undo the big plug by the fuse box and remove the relays on the side of the fuse box, the cover attached in the middle of the car and the connectors to the DME). I cut mine of the motor when I did one car and after it was out realize how easy it would have been to remove the thing together.

Oh other thoughts. Leave the hood on just put in the full vertical position (may have to remove one screw that locks it out of this on the linkage if no one else has and not put it back). Also removing the bumper and nose panel make access much easier and does not take all that long.

Thaniel


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## CroDriver (Jan 8, 2009)

The aluminum adapter plate isn't finished yet










This components are the hardest part of a conversion. At least they where the biggest issue for me


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

*Front bumper is off...*

Thanks for the help, guys - makes me feel a bit better. I've come to this knowing that I know nothing about cars, so any advice is useful 



jackbauer said:


> I'm doing a '96 bmw 316 myself and i can say both the bently and haynes manuals are rubbish.


May be, but to someone with no prior experience, anything is better than nothing 



> Firstly , pull the engine and gearbox as one unit. ... i removed the plugs and filled the cylinders with oil...


As you say - not an option. Although I did find a website where they were talking about preserving unused engines in a barrel of oil, so I guess it's not necessarily all bad...



> Fuel tank removal is real fun.


Judging by your description, I don't think "fun" means what you think it means  I'm expecting a lot of "fun" during this project...



> Not sure how much of this will apply to yourself but hope it helps. I have a few vids on youtube may be a help.


Got a link? I had a quick look but couldn't find you...



CroDriver said:


> A BMW 3-series is a great donor!


I hope so...



> I'm converting a E30
> 
> http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28287


I've been watching - yours is a bit out of my league, though 



> If you'll use a Kostov, I can make you all the motor-to-gearbox adapter parts you need


I'm using an Advanced DC FB1-4001A, so I guess that won't work...



Thaniel said:


> Not sure about all the trouble described in removing the tank. Mine came out very easy. But then again none of the bolts on mine were rusted.


The car is in pretty good nick(for 335,000 km), so I'm hopeful that there won't be any rusty bolts (or body etc). Haven't found any yet...



> ...leave the entire harness connected to the motor/trans...
> 
> ...Leave the hood on just put in the full vertical position...
> 
> Also removing the bumper and nose panel make access much easier and does not take all that long.


All useful tips - in fact, tonight after work I removed the front bumper 

I decided to leave the radiator for a bit - I need to do some easy jobs first to build up some confidence (and yes, I know it's not hard for you guys with your workshops and toolkits, but remember all my tools are bright and shiny! And Oh! for a double garage. Or even a single garage that I could get the car into...). 

The grill/front panel is next - little baby steps for me. Hopefully the weekend will be fine...

(pictures later...) (not that a missing front bumper is very exciting for anyone except me, and maybe the guys at work with a sweepstake on when/if I finish this )


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

http://www.youtube.com/user/pooey1911
happy viewing


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: Front bumper is off...*



CrunchTime said:


> All useful tips - in fact, tonight after work I removed the front bumper
> 
> I decided to leave the radiator for a bit - I need to do some easy jobs first to build up some confidence (and yes, I know it's not hard for you guys with your workshops and toolkits, but remember all my tools are bright and shiny! And Oh! for a double garage. Or even a single garage that I could get the car into...).
> 
> The grill/front panel is next - little baby steps for me. Hopefully the weekend will be fine...


We don't all have huge garages and workshops. I'm doing mine on an open air rubble driveway with tools and skills I haven't used in anger for nearly 2 decades.
It is amazing what is possible when you stop caring what the neighbours think of the developing 'junk yard' on their doorstep!


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

jackbauer said:


> http://www.youtube.com/user/pooey1911
> happy viewing


Thanks (having trouble with my connection - I'll try later  )



Woodsmith said:


> We don't all have huge garages and workshops. I'm doing mine on an open air rubble driveway with tools and skills I haven't used in anger for nearly 2 decades.
> It is amazing what is possible when you stop caring what the neighbours think of the developing 'junk yard' on their doorstep!


Hmmm - at least mine's not rubble, but concrete 

And at least you *had* the skills 20 years ago - I've never had them 

Speaking of tools - do I actually need any of the special BMW tools I keep reading about (or is there always an alternative)? The one that concerns me most (so far) is the one for removing the fuel line connector, when I get to it...

Got the front grill and panel off, and finally bit the bullet and wiggled under the car far enough to find what I think is the engine block coolant drain plug. (By leaving the radiator cap on until I was back out from underneath, I managed to (mostly) avoid the toxic shower I read about - it slowed the flow down to a trickle) I'm not convinced it's all out, since it's nowhere near the 10 liters I apparently should have had (more like 6)...


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

CrunchTime said:


> Hmmm - at least mine's not rubble, but concrete
> 
> And at least you *had* the skills 20 years ago - I've never had them


Ahh but 20 years ago it didn't hurt so much crawling under the car in the cold and wet. 

Basic mechanics isn't overly complex but it is worth reading the manual and following the steps through. For potentially dangerous parts of the job, make sure a friend is around to help out. Lifting the engine out is definately an occasion when a second pair of hands and eyes helps.

As for special tools, sometimes a little inginuity helps when you can see what sort of tool is required. If the job is only to dismantle one part that you are not keeping then it isn't worth the purchase of a tool.
For the fuel line in particular you could just cut it off unless it has great resale value.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Yeah you need one special tool. BMW part number H-A-C-K-S-A-W-12". It works on:
Coolant hoses, fuel lines , brackets , engine loom.


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

jackbauer said:


> Yeah you need one special tool. BMW part number H-A-C-K-S-A-W-12". It works on:
> Coolant hoses, fuel lines , brackets , engine loom.


Actually today someone suggested the power version - a-n-g-l-e-g-r-i-n-d-e-r... It was just after I mentioned having seen rusty exhaust bolts while crawling around underneath...

Radiator's out - ignored the book in the end and took the radiator out. Couldn't get the fan nut undone - requires a special tool (apart from the reverse-threaded spanner  ) to hold the coolant pump stationary - my screwdriver didn't work - it bent, instead 

Found some more of that pesky coolant, too - it was in the pipes...


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## Jimdear2 (Oct 12, 2008)

CrunchTime said:


> Actually today someone suggested the power version - a-n-g-l-e-g-r-i-n-d-e-r... It was just after I mentioned having seen rusty exhaust bolts while crawling around underneath...
> 
> Radiator's out - ignored the book in the end and took the radiator out. Couldn't get the fan nut undone - requires a special tool (apart from the reverse-threaded spanner  ) to hold the coolant pump stationary - my screwdriver didn't work - it bent, instead
> 
> Found some more of that pesky coolant, too - it was in the pipes...


You all might try the non OEM generic version of the tools you mention, a battery operated 3.5-i-n-c-h-s-t-r-o-k-s-a-w-s-a-l-l. The power cord version works as well, it's just not quite as handy.

You would be supprised at how versitile a disassembly tool it is. You can take about 95% of a car apart with this one tool


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

You need a 32mm spanner for the fan. its a left hand thread. the jackbauer method was to attach spanner then use a few belts of the hammer to loosen.


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## evlowrider (Jul 23, 2009)

Hey Crunchtime! good to see your project is underway. I'm in Lower Hutt too so if you need a hand or want to check out my project gimme a shout. I have a 2ton engine crane if you need to borrow it for lifting the engine out. 

I'm working on my MX5 currently, a few steps ahead of you since I have my engine out now. 

WRT tools, one of my best investments has been an air compressor + rattle gun (impact wrench), its great for undo'ing those rusty and seized bolts that you'll no doubt encounter.

Pete.


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

Got some more stuff out: Disconnected the main loom (basically the way you suggested, Thaniel - thanks  ); removed the heater switch and related pipes (found some more coolant, too). 

I seem to be at the point of needing to disconnect the fuel lines (to remove the injector header before removing the inlet manifold before...) - any hints for this?

Learning all the time...

(Got to go let off the fireworks - it's Guy Fawkes night  (or it was on Thursday, anyway...))


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## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

Glad something I suggested was useful. I can do car mechanics but struggle with a lot of the EV electrical details.



CrunchTime said:


> I seem to be at the point of needing to disconnect the fuel lines (to remove the injector header before removing the inlet manifold before...) - any hints for this?


Removing the inlet manifold? Why? I took mine engine out all in one piece.

Here is a pic of what I took out from my blog.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_nEnkWndwKqA/RnW6VscjzNI/AAAAAAAAAAM/JOcI6MTYaOw/s1600-h/154-5447_IMG.JPG

Looking at it I'm reminded i took of the throttle body just to not break it. To disconnect the fuel lines.....you don't need them. hack saw through the rubber lines. I don't remember how I did it but any rubber lines connecting to the engine I basically just cut through. To lift the motor out you can see in the picture I put the spreader bar cross wise and attached to the motor mount locations then a strap back to the trans to balance it. worked reasonably well. 

Thaniel


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

Thaniel said:


> Glad something I suggested was useful.


So was I 



> Removing the inlet manifold? Why? I took mine engine out all in one piece.


#@$&% Didn't read your post until now - the manifold is out already 



> To disconnect the fuel lines.....


It turned out to be easy - no special tool required - simple screw clamp like most of the other pipes etc. 



> To lift the motor out you can see in the picture I put the spreader bar cross wise and attached to the motor mount locations then a strap back to the trans to balance it. worked reasonably well.


Nearly there, I think. Exhaust manifold to be detached, and maybe some other bits and pieces. I have one wire that doesn't seem to have a connector, from the main loom going towards the back of the car. If I can't find a plug, I'll just cut it, but haven't actually done that to anything yet. In theory, I could still put this thing back together - Yeah, right...

Once the ICE is out, this will turn into an EV thread - at the moment it's more of a "newbie fiddling with cars" sort of thing - sorry about that. I appreciate the help, though!


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## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

CrunchTime said:


> So was I
> Nearly there, I think. Exhaust manifold to be detached, and maybe some other bits and pieces. I have one wire that doesn't seem to have a connector, from the main loom going towards the back of the car.


I left the exhaust manifold on as well. Just disconnected it from the down pipe (exhaust pipe). cut the bolts off if you have to.

Looking at some pictures I took of it out. Yup exhaust manifold and all accessories still on it. I really didn't spend much time taking it out.

The wire going to the back is probably either going to the back up switch (if you have a manual trans) or the O2 sensor. Should be easy enough to see. If it is to the back up swtich it'll come out with the trans so don't worry about it. The o2 sensor should have a plug somewhere. I forget where. I think under the car near the trans. Remove the exhuaust and you find it.

I'll attach some picts to show I'm not making this stuff up


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Two cables run from the wiring box under the windscreen to the back. One is the oxygen sensor. it has 3 wires other is the reversing light switch with two wires.


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

So I cut the wire - it had 2 cores, so I guess the reversing-light-switch...

and now I can see that I didn't need to take out anything I took out yesterday (comes from slavishly following the book). oh well, live and learn...

Yes - I was intending to split the exhaust at the down pipe (if the bolts aren't too rusty - haven't got any of the "Special Tools" discussed above, yet), so I had that right at least 


AC Compressor is the only other thing I think - I didn't get it drained before starting, so can't take it out... Don't intend to use it, though, at least initially until I see what the range is like...

Update 12-Nov-2009: Sure enough, the bolts are rusty  I'm spraying WD40 every day until the weekend, then I'll have another go. If that doesn't work, I'll get a blowtorch, but I'd rather not have to (I don't like the lack of room for getting away from underneath in case of something catching fire...) Might borrow/buy some bigger/better stands and get the car up a bit higher, too - mine are pretty small...


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

Not much happening recently. Managed to get the exhaust manifold undone (took the blowtorch approach in the end, and didn't have much trouble after that. Oh, and a bit of pipe on the end of the wrench helped as well  )

Ended up getting the Air-con drained - guy came round, took 15 minutes, charged me NZ$67.50 - worth it for the peace of mind, even if not strictly necessary.

Took the exhaust assembly off today - couldn't see any wires connected anywhere, so I guess I don't have any oxygen sensors (none up by the coolant plug either)  Could this be correct?


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## roflwaffle (Sep 9, 2008)

The O2 sensors tend to be in the exhaust manifold/s if they aren't in the pipes.


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## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

CrunchTime said:


> Took the exhaust assembly off today - couldn't see any wires connected anywhere, so I guess I don't have any oxygen sensors (none up by the coolant plug either)  Could this be correct?


does not seem right. At least in the states the o2 sensor location is as in the attached pic.


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

Thanks guys - the car was NZ-new, and it appears that New Zealand was a bit slack back in '95 and didn't require all this fancy O2 monitoring etc. There are definitely no connections to the pipe, nor on the exhaust manifold that I have seen. I can see from the photo how the sensor should get in the way of removing the engine-block coolant-plug - this didn't happen either. I'm fairly sure there are none...


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves...


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## karlos (Jun 30, 2008)

How's the progress? What motor and controller have you decided to use?


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

karlos said:


> How's the progress? What motor and controller have you decided to use?


+1 , update?


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

karlos said:


> How's the progress? What motor and controller have you decided to use?


Curtis 1231C with an ADC FB1-4001A for historic reasons...



Bowser330 said:


> +1 , update?


I guess after nearly two years I probably should do an update...

I haven't been here much in the last year or two, mainly because of embarassingly slow progress. However, I have


stripped *all* the petrol-related junk out (tank, fuel-lines etc);
removed all the aircon stuff as well (might have to put it back eventually,but it'll be a mission...);
bought another loom (except it's auto vs my manual so a bit different) and stripped off all the ECU related wiring - saved a few ounces there; hopefully didn't take out anything I'll need;
got hold of another instrument panel and wasted lots of time making it work from a PIC micro connected via USB to my PC (ostensibly to make sure my instruments are correct, especially the tach, but has possibilities for Live for Speed) ;
had the motor mounted by a local engineer (clutchless with tranny);
decided to go with lead (12 Trojans), then 2 weeks later convinced myself to get Lithium instead (which I got delivered on time and budget by Dave from CurrentEVTech  although the BMS was a different story that all worked out in the end though);
had battery boxes built and installed by another engineer since the first was too busy;
he also mounted (in the front) the power steering pump, vacuum pump and (in the boot) charger;
built the controller board and mounted the major components to it.

There's still a long way to go. I still have to

Decide how to secure the 144V cables (batteries, charger etc) between the front and rear of the car;
Add a breaker to the controller board;
Add a myriad fuses to the 12V circuit on the board;
Decide what control I want (if any) on the power steering pump e.g. switch on the dash? something speed related?;
Connect the batteries;
Go up and down the drive way with EV grin in place .

I admit to being a bit confused by NZ's new EV rules (currently, specifically about maintenance switches, emergency disconnects, and the like), but will be querying both the local certifier and the LVVTA forum for clarification...

I also need to flog the ICE and its paraphernalia - I need more space in the garage.


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## karlos (Jun 30, 2008)

How's the progress?


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## CrunchTime (Feb 13, 2009)

karlos said:


> How's the progress?


Good question - after another year of still embarrassingly slow progress:


Hooked up the the batteries (including BMS);
Driven up and down the driveway with a passenger and EV grin ;
Installed and tested the ceramic heater core;
Installed the ammeter and voltmeter temporarily (needs a permanent mounting solution) - ammeter doesn't work for some reason ;
Installed and tested the EVWorks FGD+ on the fuel gauge (but not for a full charge/disharge)
Made, installed but not tested a Hall-effect RPM sensor connecting to the tach (with switch to change between RPM, and Battery Amps from the FGD+);
Tested my new replacement Zivan controller chip - batteries charged to the required level at the required speed and then stopped, so it seems to be working correctly;
Wired and plumbed the PS pump (switch in cabin controlling a relay) and added ATF (Need to test it - hope it doesn't explode ATF everywhere );


Still to do:


Testing of various components (see above);
More insulation as required (terminals etc);
Waterproofing (i.e. probably a belly pan, front grill dam etc);
Battery ties and covers (perspex is expensive);
Sundry other minor jobs.
Certification


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## mons2b (Nov 17, 2015)

CrunchTime said:


> Good question - after another year of still embarrassingly slow progress:
> 
> 
> Hooked up the the batteries (including BMS);
> ...


I have been hoping to finish a e36 for years. I would be extremely keen to know what you learned. About a million different things. Did you finish the car?


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## mons2b (Nov 17, 2015)

This is a old thread but id like to add theres a far easier way to remove a e36 fuel tank if you dont care to resell it. Drill a hole in it (carefully) . Use a air drill if your really paranoid . I wasnt . Let the fuel drain into a container. Stick a garden hose in the fuel filler wash the tank out a couple of times. Plug in your angle grinder. Cut the tank into two pieces. Remove the tank. No drive shaft lowering required. No brake cable to be moved. Of course you need to unscrew the caps under the rear seat and some other cables etc but that takes 5 minutes. This may not suit everyone but it worked for me.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Angle grinders and gas tanks/drums? 😬

Full of water, ok, but any fumes and pockets and it could be a bomb. Water & gas don't mix, so how to wash the gas out without detergent?

I'd also suggest a sawzall vs an angle grinder - if you're gunna blow yourself up, at least get your name in the paper as a failed catalytic converter theif.


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## 57Chevy (Jan 31, 2020)

mons2b said:


> This is a old thread but


That's a marathon build! I'm doing two Tesla LDUs in a Chevy, two years in and hoping to finish in three more. What part of NZ are you in?

[edit] sorry realised it isn't your build


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## mons2b (Nov 17, 2015)

57Chevy said:


> That's a marathon build! I'm doing two Tesla LDUs in a Chevy, two years in and hoping to finish in three more. What part of NZ are you in?
> 
> [edit] sorry realised it isn't your build


Im doing a e36 316i . I am in Christchurch. Started in 2016 and still going. A marriage breakup didnt help (didnt help a lot of things actually)


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## 57Chevy (Jan 31, 2020)

mons2b said:


> Im doing a e36 316i . I am in Christchurch. Started in 2016 and still going. A marriage breakup didnt help (didnt help a lot of things actually)


I'm up the top for the last 21 years, from Chch originally. Trying to put an LDU, Impreza rack and Model S suspension onto the front of a Chevy chassis. It doesn't really want to go. Time to get the grinder out soon...


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## mons2b (Nov 17, 2015)

57Chevy said:


> I'm up the top for the last 21 years, from Chch originally. Trying to put an LDU, Impreza rack and Model S suspension onto the front of a Chevy chassis. It doesn't really want to go. Time to get the grinder out soon...
> 
> View attachment 126027


Grinders make many things better. So you are using a Tesla motor? Fancy.


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## 57Chevy (Jan 31, 2020)

mons2b said:


> So you are using a Tesla motor?


I'm using two, there's another one in the back end... Got a good deal on two P100D tricycles


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

SDU or M3 makes more sense up front. If not, relocate the inverter


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