# Started 1978 Austin Mini conversion



## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Hey, looking like a good conversion.

Good move on using a different transmission, so much easier then trying to work around the integrated one.

Keep hold of the Mini drive shafts as you may need them for reference and to convert the Honda outer ends once you know how long they need to be.

I would be interested in seeing how your pack fits in the boot. I am planning on the same number and size of batteries for my trike.


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## antidigerati (Jul 13, 2010)

Thanks Woodsmith. Good advice on the driveshaft reference. I believe I've found some hybrid axles for sale that should work for me. A little pricey to get them pre-made but at this point I'm thankful for daunting tasks that can instead be purchased.

I'm going to repack the lithium batteries into groups of 6 and have 5 columns. That will give me a nice rectangular shape and less fuss when getting a metal containment box made for them. Randy at CanEV gave me enough 8-pack metal straps that I can trim down to size for this task.

By my calculations that should give me a final battery pack that is (WxDxH) 50cm X 40cm x 22cm and weighing 240lbs. Quite compact really. 

I'm still keeping a flicker of hope that I can pack the batteries above the motor and transmission at the front. That would be better as it would keep the weight distribution essentially stock and would free-up the trunk for storage. Under the hood is *tiny* though so I'm really just deluding myself.

Thanks again,
Dylan


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## rillip3 (Jun 19, 2009)

I think you could get a significant amount of batteries into the front. It'll be easier to tell with the engine out of the way and the motor in place, but just eyeballing it, I bet you could fit 10-15 minimum in the front. That would help with weight distribution, but could be annoying trying to split the pack. You'll have to make a decision on that which fits your ability and needs.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

antidigerati said:


> By my calculations that should give me a final battery pack that is (WxDxH) 50cm X 40cm x 22cm and weighing 240lbs. Quite compact really.
> Thanks again,
> Dylan


I work it out at about 725x400x220 based on the cell size I have looked up. For a 100ah I was working the basis of 220 high, 145 wide and 65 thick. Maybe we are looking at different suppliers.

It would be good to get the cells in the front, the only way to tell is to try once the motor is in place. Use a card board mock up of a cell to save accidental shorts against the body work.

Do clean and retap the cell terminals before connecitng them though. I helped connect up a pack of 153 x 200ah cells and most of the terminal holes were not tapped square or deep enough. 
We decided on getting some socket screws, M10x30 and winding them in to the terminals posts and then using nuts and washers to make the connections. It saved on any wear on the threads in the aluminium terminals as connections were made, batteries tested, connections remade, and then remade again once the pack was in the car.


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## antidigerati (Jul 13, 2010)

Hi Woodsmith. I knew I'd mess the numbers up somewhere. My width is 90cm -- and not 50cm. 

So my final dimensions in cm are: WxDxH = 90x40x22

It seems you may have found different specs than me.
My specs are from: http://canev.com/KitsComp/Components/images/Lithium100.pdf

Dylan


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## antidigerati (Jul 13, 2010)

rillip3 said:


> I think you could get a significant amount of batteries into the front. It'll be easier to tell with the engine out of the way and the motor in place, but just eyeballing it, I bet you could fit 10-15 minimum in the front. That would help with weight distribution, but could be annoying trying to split the pack. You'll have to make a decision on that which fits your ability and needs.


Yeah I'm not sure I want to split the pack. As all the batteries weigh just 240lbs I'm hoping that the rear placement won't be too noticeable.

Dylan


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Make up a card board mock up of your battery box and see if it will go in the boot.
Also make up a mock up on one cell with clearance for the connections to make sure 30 of them fit in the battery box.

Doing that saved a lot of pondering when working on my friend's Citroen Berlingo.


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## antidigerati (Jul 13, 2010)

Woodsmith said:


> Make up a card board mock up of your battery box and see if it will go in the boot.
> Also make up a mock up on one cell with clearance for the connections to make sure 30 of them fit in the battery box.
> 
> Doing that saved a lot of pondering when working on my friend's Citroen Berlingo.


Well, I am making progress. I've gotten the Honda transmission mounted, the new axles connected and a space cut out of the body interior side panel for the electric motor.

I document a lot of this on http://evmini.tumblr.com/ but here is a photo of my batteries in the box I had made... and it fits in the Mini trunk!


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Nice looking battery box.
Good to hear you are still progressing with this conversion.

Have you allowed space to insulate the batteries if you need to?
It is worth having some electrical insulation covering the exposed top part of the box to make connecting the cells a little less risky.


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## MalcolmB (Jun 10, 2008)

Hi Dylan
Really good to see a classic mini being converted! I've just been looking through the photos and build description on your website. That's impressive work for someone who reckons they've no experience working on cars. It was a good move getting professional help to build the subframe. Nice work on the battery box too. I've been planning to convert my own mini for some time now and am just about ready to make a start. Alec Issigonis didn't leave much space to spare when he designed this machine did he? I'm trying to work out where to put 60 odd 60 Ah cells without splitting them up, and it looks like the boot is the best option. I did toy with the idea of slinging them in a single layer under the floor, but there are too many damned speed bumps around here.

Looking forward to the next installment!

Malcolm


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

Now chop the top ALA Cooper Race Group and you will have much less frontal area.A belt-drive system with the LSD internals out of the Honda transmission would have created enough low cg and space for some of the batteries.The Honda limited slip differentials are very popular in the race car communities and are installed inside a custom case.
Regards,
John

http://www.westgarage.co.uk/news/news.html


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## MalcolmB (Jun 10, 2008)

Westgarage actually do a mini-specific diff conversion for chain (or belt) drive: http://www.westgarage.co.uk/forsale/kits/kit1.html
The problem again is finding enough space. There's only enough clearance to fit a 200mm diameter sprocket before you hit the rear of the subframe and the steering rack. To get a decent reduction ratio this means you have to look at either a two-stage reduction or use an 8mm pitch belt or 3/8" pitch chain.


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## antidigerati (Jul 13, 2010)

Woodsmith said:


> Nice looking battery box.
> Good to hear you are still progressing with this conversion.
> 
> Have you allowed space to insulate the batteries if you need to?
> It is worth having some electrical insulation covering the exposed top part of the box to make connecting the cells a little less risky.


Thanks!

There is space, yes. I've got a large sheet of 0.5" closed-cell polyethylene foam ready to line the box with. And I was planning on lining the lid as well to avoid any chance of metal contact.

Dylan


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## antidigerati (Jul 13, 2010)

MalcolmB said:


> Hi Dylan
> Really good to see a classic mini being converted! I've just been looking through the photos and build description on your website. That's impressive work for someone who reckons they've no experience working on cars. It was a good move getting professional help to build the subframe. Nice work on the battery box too. I've been planning to convert my own mini for some time now and am just about ready to make a start. Alec Issigonis didn't leave much space to spare when he designed this machine did he? I'm trying to work out where to put 60 odd 60 Ah cells without splitting them up, and it looks like the boot is the best option. I did toy with the idea of slinging them in a single layer under the floor, but there are too many damned speed bumps around here.
> 
> Looking forward to the next installment!
> ...


Thanks Malcolm. Your feedback is appreciated. Good luck with your conversion and hopefully my diary helps you out in some way.


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## antidigerati (Jul 13, 2010)

I just wanted to let people know I've made great strides with this conversion and have now gone for a few test drives. 

I have a few tweaks here and there, not to mention the general (non-EV-related) restoration of the vehicle, but the car drives!

http://evmini.ca/


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## sunworksco (Sep 8, 2008)

Too bad you can't delete the tranny.
Great job, though, all things considered.
In less than two years, with the newly redesigned anode/cathodes, lithium batteries will nearly double in density and be half the weight.
MIT and Northwestern Universities are leading the race.

Kind regards,
Giovanni


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## antidigerati (Jul 13, 2010)

sunworksco said:


> Too bad you can't delete the tranny.


I was advised against it, but would consider trying that if it makes sense in the future.



sunworksco said:


> Great job, though, all things considered.


Um.. I sure thought so.



sunworksco said:


> In less than two years, with the newly redesigned anode/cathodes, lithium batteries will nearly double in density and be half the weight.
> MIT and Northwestern Universities are leading the race.


I look forward to it!


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