# BMW 2002e - my conversion of a BMW2002 using a Leaf -> 2002e



## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Dear DIY EV community, 

I am working on a conversion to create a BMW 2002e in celebration of the first electric BWM from 1972. My aim is to meet the 50th anniversary of this visionary vehicle in 2022. 

My story is that I believe in EV's and have a strong connection to the BMW 1602/2002. Last year I visited the Munich BMW museum and saw the 1602e. This was demonstrated in 1972 for the Munich Olympics. 
See: 








Meet the all-electric BMW… of 1972







www.topgear.com












1972 BMW 1602e: BMW’s First Electric Car Detailed In New Video


BMW’s first electric car, a 1602 with its engine swapped for an array of batteries, in this case ordinary 12-volt car batteries, made its debut at the 1972 Olympic Games held in the automaker’s home town of Munich. Two examples were used to shuttle VIPs and serve as support cars in various...




www.motorauthority.com












The surprising history of BMW's electric cars


This German automaker has been testing electric car technology for over 40 years.




www.businessinsider.com





I would like to recognise @Tremelune in particular for his recent work and inspiration for me to start with the Nissan Leaf. 








Tremelune







www.diyelectriccar.com





See below some photos of the current status: 





































Current plans are to use the Leaf OEM parts (including possibly power steering, brakes, etc).

Fingers crossed I may have some assistance with getting the VCM re-programmed (watch this space .....) and re-use the charger/ inverter etc. 

I am hoping to reuse the BMW gearbox with a simple converter (using Fiat/BMW clutch). I plan to reuse the display & gear selector from the leaf. 

At the moment:


Nissan Leaf still works & is almost stripped of excess components. I have an I-key alarm but it seems Ok. I have not pulled the parts from the Leaf yet. The Leaf will provide the "heart and lungs".
BMW is stripped - ready for the transplant (heart and lungs).
Next steps are to plan the mounting motor in the BMW, work out where to mount the batteries, and strip as much as possible from the Leaf.

I would love to ask the community for experience in: 


Dealing with wiring looms (and how to stripping what is not needed)
Battery housing (box or covers) to cope with "crash loading" so I can comply with transport regulations in Australia
Experience using Leaf power steering/ brakes in an EV conversion
Similar experience with BMW 2002/1602 EV's
What have I missed
Comments


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

That looks like a good start 



matthew.stead said:


> I am hoping to reuse the BMW gearbox with a simple converter (using Fiat/BMW clutch). I plan to reuse the display & gear selector from the leaf.


I'm not sure why you want to retain the whole BMW gearbox (the Leaf works with only a single gear ratio, and in 1969 BMW didn't use the gearbox), but it is the easiest setup to mount... and takes the most engine compartment space.

The Leaf shifter doesn't actually change gears - it won't work with the BMW transmission. Getting suitable messages for Park and Reverse to the rest of the Leaf system will be a challenge if you want to use the Leaf control systems intact. If you use the BMW transmission's reverse the Leaf stuff may not need to know it's not still going forward. There is no equivalent to "Park" in a manual transmission car, but the Leaf may need to think it's in Park as part of the shutdown and startup sequence. This has been solved by other builders, but they may be using various approaches to working with the stock Leaf controls.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

brian_ said:


> That looks like a good start
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why you want to retain the whole BMW gearbox (the Leaf works with only a single gear ratio, and in 1969 BMW didn't use the gearbox), but it is the easiest setup to mount... and takes the most engine compartment space.
> ...


Thanks Brian for the response. Much appreciated. You have got me thinking about the re-use of the gearbox. I understand the BMW (Getrag) gearbox ratio is 1st to 4th gear = 3.7/2.0/1.3/1. The differential is 3.6 ratio. Are you suggesting I use the output from the Leaf = 1:1 ie 4th gear straight to the differential? I see the low speed torque is great in the leaf. 

The leaf performance (2012 model from ORNL) - page 12: 


https://www.energy.gov/sites/prod/files/2014/03/f13/ape006_burress_2013_o.pdf



Compared with BMW 2002 ICE: 









My post was not clear re intentions for the Leaf gear selector. I was going to leave the BMW gearbox in a fixed gear(I was thinking 3rd or 4th) & then use the gear selector from the Leaf for actually driving day to day. In this case the BMW gearbox does not really do anything.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

The Leaf motor's torque is great, but not great enough to make 1:1 between the motor and the axle very satisfactory, whether that is the BMW transmission stuck in 4th gear (making the transmission just a space-consuming pile of ballast), or simply a shaft from motor to axle (omitting the transmission). The original 1602e omitted the transmission, but they probably had a motor which couldn't safely run fast enough to use much lower gearing, and they may have had a different axle ratio. The 1600 came stock with a 4.11:1 axle ratio, which would make 1:1 transmission ratio more acceptable, and even shorter gearing likely exists.

If you are not going to shift the BMW transmission you don't need a clutch; I assume the note about using a clutch meant just using the splined hub of a clutch plate to make a shaft adapter.

The stock Leaf runs around 7:1, so the BMW transmission in the 2:1 second gear (with the 3.6:1 axle) is comparable to the stock Leaf setup; first gear is too low to use all of the time (the speed of the car would be limited by the motor's maximum speed), third gear would give less torque at low speed (and thus less acceleration) but allow higher top speed if there is enough power (which is unlikely), and fourth gear is just pointless.

In any gearing comparisons, tire size must also be considered, but the 2002 and Leaf are not wildly different in that respect. Stock Leaf tires are about 10% taller (overall diameter) than stock 2002 tires, so the BMW would need 10% less gear reduction to get the same motor speed to road speed relationship.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

brian_ said:


> The Leaf motor's torque is great, but not great enough to make 1:1 between the motor and the axle very satisfactory, whether that is the BMW transmission stuck in 4th gear (making the transmission just a space-consuming pile of ballast), or simply a shaft from motor to axle (omitting the transmission). The original 1602e omitted the transmission, but they probably had a motor which couldn't safely run fast enough to use much lower gearing, and they may have had a different axle ratio. The 1600 came stock with a 4.11:1 axle ratio, which would make 1:1 transmission ratio more acceptable, and even shorter gearing likely exists.
> 
> If you are not going to shift the BMW transmission you don't need a clutch; I assume the note about using a clutch meant just using the splined hub of a clutch plate to make a shaft adapter.
> 
> ...


Some great points there. Thanks


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: I now have what I think is the almost bare minimum system - interior wiring / control / body components. The car still drives and after some mistakes in disconnecting too much I think I have the parts I need. 

Most external parts which are not needed also have been removed (lights, abs sensors, A/C - except heater and compressor). 

The car is from Japan and imported to Australia. It came with an Electronic Tolling system which seemed to be hard spliced into the stock wiring looms. Does anyone have experience with removing that system?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Some more progress over the weekend. 

At the start:









Lifting the motor. The drive shaft joints (CV's??) "pulled out" from the gearbox. I won't be using the gearbox so not an issue if I have damaged them. 









Lowering the battery. Note the furniture dolley's under the timber supports. 3 jack points. 









Battery out. I actually pulled it out frontwards after jacking the front of the car. It is on furniture dolley's. 









Engine bay wiring loom (very carefully labelling before removal). I can probably remove a few extra bits. 









Finally bits & pieces that will need to go into the BMW 2002. I have the body wiring loom in the box on the left and engine bay wiring on the right. Also the A/C compressor, brakes & dash components (including gear selector). I will try to reuse the brake booster if I can. The A/C compressor will need to go.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

After removing the gearbox I thought I would try a test fit of the motor. 










It is a very tight fit.









Looking from above there is plenty of room front & back - but the steering box & water pipes are almost clashing. 
















View from below. The old gearbox will bolt-on. The motor is sitting on the old engine subframe. 









This is the most worrying angle. The charger cover sits up too high. I am pretty certain it will clash with the bonnet. I think I can lower the engine subframe to get a little bit of extra height.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

matthew.stead said:


> The drive shaft joints (CV's??) "pulled out" from the gearbox. I won't be using the gearbox so not an issue if I have damaged them.


Yes, they are CV (constant-velocity) joints, and they normally pull out of the transaxle... but you have pulled them apart, leaving the stubs in the transaxle. These are of the tripod type. The transaxle should be fine, and even the joints and shafts may be okay if cleaned, repacked with grease, and reassembled with new boots.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Nice. That thing looks great in there! Are you planning to fool the Leaf into thinking it's a Leaf? It's a somewhat all-or-nothing proposition.

I've had good luck using (clamped) metal elbows for the tight spots in the cooling...though you'll at least need room for the elbows.

For the PDC (the top box on the motor), you can gain some millis by pulling the cover off and replacing it with something thinner. one thought I had was to use the cover, but cut off the top so it was just over even with the highest electronics bit, then cover the whole thing back up with a simple piece of 2mm ABS plastic or aluminum. It doesn't hold coolant or anything; it's mainly there to keep out dirt and fingers. You could even angle it to slope with the hood if that makes the difference.

The PDC is also something you could pretty easily put in the trunk. It doesn't need to be close to the motor to charge and power 12V electronics (though I think it needs coolant). I would do one of these two things before modifying the hood or lowering the transmission. It looks like you're close.

I'm still not sure why you'd bother with Leaf brakes. I would just use the BMW stuff, and if there really isn't room for a vacuum pump, put one in the trunk and run a hose.

I've been ruminating about a front-engine, rear-wheel-drive conversion, and my plan has been to mate the motor to the transmission with no clutch, more or less only using 2nd and 3rd. It just doesn't seem like a big deal to come to a stop and shift from 2nd to 3rd at some point before getting on a highway, and then back at some point after getting off. You can also change the rear differential gears to kind of tune the revs and speed tradeoff...

I built a little gearing grapher...It's buggy and goofy, but helps me visualize with real numbers. I believe the EM57 gearbox is 8.19:






Gear Wars







gearwars.net










Nissan LEAF Teardown: Comparison of the Gen1 and New EV electric units (with photos) - MarkLines Automotive Industry Portal


MarkLines Automotive Information Platform



www.marklines.com


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> Are you planning to fool the Leaf into thinking it's a Leaf? It's a somewhat all-or-nothing proposition.


Watch this space. I have some outside assistance that is looking positive ie I might be able to use key components and discard others. I will proceed with all-or-nothing in the interim.



Tremelune said:


> For the PDC (the top box on the motor), you can gain some millis by pulling the cover off and replacing it with something thinner. one thought I had was to use the cover, but cut off the top so it was just over even with the highest electronics bit, then cover the whole thing back up with a simple piece of 2mm ABS plastic or aluminum.


Great idea. I had not thought about that. Do you know how much could be saved? I can probably gain 20 to 40 mm with some spacers between the body and engine subframe.



Tremelune said:


> I'm still not sure why you'd bother with Leaf brakes. I would just use the BMW stuff, and if there really isn't room for a vacuum pump, put one in the trunk and run a hose.


I take your point. I was partly trying to get rid of the BMW vacuum boosters x 2. You can see one in the following photo. The other is below. It would be good to have it all in one system. The BMW actually had a neat removable panel where the existing master cylinder, clutch pedal is so it may actually be super easy to mount the Leaf booster there (along with the Leaf pedals).




























Tremelune said:


> 've been ruminating about a front-engine, rear-wheel-drive conversion, and my plan has been to mate the motor to the transmission with no clutch, more or less only using 2nd and 3rd. It just doesn't seem like a big deal to come to a stop and shift from 2nd to 3rd at some point before getting on a highway, and then back at some point after getting off


This is the current plan. My thinking is that I use the old clutch & the spline from the Leaf gearbox to make an adaptor. Or alternatively (as some other people have suggested on this forum) use a "Fiat clutch" and mate it with the BMW clucth to form an adaptor.











Tremelune said:


> I built a little gearing grapher...It's buggy and goofy, but helps me visualize with real numbers. I believe the EM57 gearbox is 8.19:


Cool - I will plug in the numbers & see how it looks.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

matthew.stead said:


> Great idea. I had not thought about that. Do you know how much could be saved? I can probably gain 20 to 40 mm with some spacers between the body and engine subframe.


It might only be a centimeter or two, depending on what's under the black plastic:






My main concern is the driveshaft angle. The angle at the differential has to precisely match the angle at the transmission or wear will accelerate greatly...so I've read. If you lower the transmission, you have to make sure it doesn't tilt at all.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Tremelune said:


> For the PDC (the top box on the motor), you can gain some millis by pulling the cover off and replacing it with something thinner. one thought I had was to use the cover, but cut off the top so it was just over even with the highest electronics bit, then cover the whole thing back up with a simple piece of 2mm ABS plastic or aluminum. It doesn't hold coolant or anything; it's mainly there to keep out dirt and fingers.


But isn't that top cover cast aluminum, as shown in the video posted later? While components within it are individually enclosed, I would still expect the top cover to have a shielding function, because Nissan probably would have used a plastic cover if they could.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

It is aluminum. My guess is that it's more about physical protection from crushing (based on the honeycomb reinforcement), but I don't know much about RF one way or the other.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Tremelune said:


> My main concern is the driveshaft angle. The angle at the differential has to precisely match the angle at the transmission or wear will accelerate greatly...so I've read. If you lower the transmission, you have to make sure it doesn't tilt at all.


Yes, mostly...

Traditionally a propeller shaft has universal joints (U-joints), which are used in pairs and mounted in phase. With U-joints, if the input (transmission output shaft in this case) and output (final drive pinion shaft in this case) are parallel, then the variations in angular velocity cancel out and the system runs smoothly; if they are not parallel the speed varies during each revolution causing vibration and increased wear. Despite this, they do tolerate some out-of-parallel, which happens with suspension travel in every live beam axle system.

Some cars don't use U-joints; at least at one end there is a flexible disk a.k.a. rubber doughnut a.k.a. giubo a.k.a. rag joint (known by brand names such as Rotoflex). With independent rear suspension the final drive doesn't move with the suspension, so the joints in this shaft need to accommodate only the minimal movement due to mounting bushing deflection. These joints need to run as straight as possible, and the angle at one end doesn't matter to the other end.

As is often the case with German cars, the 2002 shaft appears to add an unnecessary degree of complication: it has a shaft with a U-joint at each end, but the front joint is well behind the transmission, with an extra shaft section from transmission to this U-joint. There is a flex disk joint between the extra shaft and the transmission. If that's what you have, you want the flex disk to run straight, and the extra shaft section and the final drive's pinion shaft to be parallel. To be fair, it could be worse: some newer BMWs have all three types of joint (flex disk, U-joint, and CV joint) all in one two-piece shaft, for maximal complication and cost, minimal reliability, and inherent vibration. 

What all of this means is, if I have the right shaft design, lowering the transmission also requires lowering the intermediate bearing carrier (where the forward U-joint is)... as well as keeping the transmission at the same angle.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

There were 3 mounting points for the engine (2 mounts) and gearbox (1 mount). If the new Leaf motor is lower (and bolted to the gearbox) I can also put in a spacer to lower the gearbox mount as well (this is via a rubber mount). This will then lower all the components (shaft/ rubber doughnut) & with some care I should be able to get it all straight.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 

I have started putting the systems back together. I hope that I got all the parts needed.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

matthew.stead said:


> If the new Leaf motor is lower (and bolted to the gearbox) I can also put in a spacer to lower the gearbox mount as well (this is via a rubber mount). This will then lower all the components (shaft/ rubber doughnut) & with some care I should be able to get it all straight.


That will keep it level (or at least parallel to what it was originally, but then there's this:


brian_ said:


> ... if I have the right shaft design, lowering the transmission also requires lowering the intermediate bearing carrier (where the forward U-joint is)... as well as keeping the transmission at the same angle.


For the flex joint to stay straight, the intermediate bearing carrier must be lowered, or the motor and transmission assembly must be tilted (front end lower) as it is lowered.
For the U-joints to run at equal angles, if the motor and transmission are kept parallel to what they were originally, then the the intermediate bearing carrier must be lowered the same amount.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: Very excited to say that I have proof of life!!!

Everything (needed I think) from the 2014 Nissan Leaf is reconnected.

It turned on ("brake pedal" on). 

I got the "green car". 

It went from Park to Drive & also Reverse. The motor was spinning. 

Then it started to go wrong. The motor kept spinning and I could not put it in Park. I managed to get it into neutral but it still was spinning. 

At this point in time the selector did not work. 

My only option was to disconnect the 12 V and Leaf battery..... then it stopped. 

Any suggestions for what may have gone wrong?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

After the need to cut power yesterday I was brave enough to reconnect the 12V and main battery (without putting into D or R). Thankfully it fired up and seems to be ready for action.










I have not reserached the DTCs ...but this is what I have. It does not appear that these are critical.


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## [email protected] (May 25, 2020)

Nice!

I'm following your progress and will be venturing converting my BMW.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> It is aluminum. My guess is that it's more about physical protection from crushing (based on the honeycomb reinforcement), but I don't know much about RF one way or the other.


@Tremelune Just checking do you have tips for removing the cover? I undid the bolts - do I cut the seal & remove the cover - or is there another process?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

[email protected] said:


> Nice!
> 
> I'm following your progress and will be venturing converting my BMW.


Great - what do you have? 2002 or another model?


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## wjbitner (Apr 5, 2010)

matthew.stead said:


> @Tremelune Just checking do you have tips for removing the cover? I undid the bolts - do I cut the seal & remove the cover - or is there another process?


Yes. I think there are a few places that a screwdriver fits nicely. The sealent is quite good.. A little at a time in a few places and it comes apart.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

While waiting for the coupler & adaptor (gearbox <-> Leaf motor) I have cleaned up the engine bay and removed the engine subframe. I have also been thining about where to put the batteries. Inside the car or in the boot? I know the weight distribution won't be great but it would be so much simpler to mount. Any thoughts?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

While waiting for the gearbox adaptor/coupler I had a go at checking out the battery. It is a very neat package. Now to plan the new arrangement in the car.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 

The system has been re-assembled outside the battery pack. Unfortunately, when I tried to start the system it came up with some fatal faults and would not start. Looking back I had disconnected the two wires that come with the main motor power cable (at the battery). I also did not have earthing for the HV battery and some electronics. After addressing these issues I was able to start the motor putting it in reverse and forward. The only issue was that I was not able to stop the motor without disconnecting the HV battery. 

I am planning to install batteries in close to the original arrangement with the horizontal pack where the rear seat was and the 2 lower "flat" packs in the boot. The HV battery will be flipped from the arrangement below. 

I have some BMS extension cables and now sourcing power cables to connect between the motor & HV battery. 

Next step will be to extend the wiring loom for instruments, brake, selector and motor.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Nice use of vertical space!

Now would be a wonderful time to document the exact components needed to get the motor to spin...


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Thanks for the prompt @Tremelune 

Current status. I am hoping to be able to remove some of the remaining components.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)




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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)




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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)




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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)




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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Many lessons learnt so far. Please let me know if you have any questions.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

@Tremelune - while this does spin - as I have said previously it does not stop because there are no brakes and for some reason, the motor keeps going at a low speed.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Postscript - a couple of updates. I have now removed more - steering orientation, accelerometers & radio sensors. Possibly also the movement sensor? These have all been removed and the system still works.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Dash with various errors - but still the green car and no turtle (which I did see previously).


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

p.p.s. - I was also able to remove the Air Conditioning compressor and all is still well.


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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

matthew.stead said:


> ... and for some reason, the motor keeps going at a low speed.


Could it be that this is a normal function? Some EVs do have that "creeping-mode", as if it was an ICE with automatic. It should disappear when you switch in "N"-position.
Markus


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## wjbitner (Apr 5, 2010)

The Leaf motor will continue spinning in no load situation if the RPMS are above 400, in either direction. Below 400, it coasts to a stop. When I coupled a Miata transmission to the Leaf motor, the motor coasted to a stop. So it appears that a minor load will slow it down enough to behave as you would expect, that is, zero throttle, coast to a stop. Your mileage may vary... lol


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update; Finally I have a machine shop that is keen to manufacture a coupling and also an adaptor between the BMW gearbox and Leaf motor. I have given the go-ahead and will post the CAD files once received.


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## Evbeddy (Jan 5, 2020)

Hi Matthew

Awesome project. Any chance you could measure the height of the leaf motor without the inverter on top please?

Keep up the great work and happy new year from the otherside of the ditch


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

This is the gist:


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## Evbeddy (Jan 5, 2020)

Thats perfect Tremelune.
Thank you 😀


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## Greenbeast (Jun 23, 2009)

Tremelune said:


> This is the gist:


handy, what's the length?


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Lotta Leaf info in my build thread:









Nissan Leaf into Rover Mini...🤞


"Trying is the first step towards failure." - Homer "I've made a huge mistake." - Gob There is no amount of research that will give you the knowledge and experience of actual doing, so I'm shrugging at my ignorance and naïveté and jumping in. Instagram: @RaidenMotors (though the Mini content...




www.diyelectriccar.com


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update::

In Australia it is summer holidays hence I have been able to make some progress. 

1) Batteries are now in the BMW. This was a huge task to make sure the weight was supported and they are restrained in the case of an accident. 
2) Wiring looms have been packaged into an (Ikea) box. This is now placed in the passenger seat area. 
3) I have ordered a Leaf computer Resolve EV to replace most of the wiring looms. 

Batteries in boot: 









Batteries in the place of rear seat & wiring loom in the passenger seat:









Gear selector/ on button/ pedals/ etc (just need the seat back in): 









Next steps are: 

1) to complete re-wiring the battery. 
2) Connect all the original wiring again (now that it is in the car) & hope that is still goes. 
3) Wait for the gearbox coupler/ adaptor. 
4) Build motor mounts. Hopefully, the gearbox adaptor can incorporate this. 
5) Wait for a new computer - see Resolve controller — Resolve-EV. Re-wire and get rid of the original Leaf looms. 
6) New Tesla electric brakes. See: All Brakes & wheels products - EVcreate (page 1)


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Progress! Why not turn the trunk box around so more weight is towards the center of the car?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> Progress! Why not turn the trunk box around so more weight is towards the center of the car?


I am being lazy. The arrangement I have means that I can reuse all the BMS cabling without modification. I only needed to drill a hole & pass cables through.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

matthew.stead said:


> I am being lazy.


Laziness and efficiency are sometimes indistinguishable. 



matthew.stead said:


> The arrangement I have means that I can reuse all the BMS cabling without modification. I only needed to drill a hole & pass cables through.


That makes sense - the current arrangement of modules is the stock arrangement in a Leaf pack, but turned front-to-back and with the lateral stack (under the rear seat of the Leaf, replacing the rear seat in the BMW) slightly separated from the rest.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 

Batteries, wiring, etc (except motor) are now in the car: 























Well that is the good news. 

The bad news is that the system did not come back to life. 

Current DTC's (Current DTC's when the system is now working): 









The bad news is that these DTC's all existed previously (screen shot from when the system still worked): 









It seems the BCM / Charger / HV Battery / IPDM / etc are now not talking anymore. I don't think that I have actually changed anything. 

Help! ..... any suggestions?

ps - I am happy with the way that the Isolator & Pre-charge circuits fit into this case.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Hm. The only thing I can think of is noise over the CAN bus, but that seems unlikely....Are you getting the right voltage in the right places at the right time? Precharge, pos, negative contactors? All 12v components plugged in and grounded? Good 12v battery?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Thanks @Tremelune 

In moving everything to car I have bundled the wiring looms together. It is possible there are some EMC issues - however they are a long way from the motor/ inverter. 

I will triple check all the earthing is in (12V). I think I have picked them all up & linked back to the battery components. I did not earth the pedal assembly but I assume that should not be an issue. I will try that just in case. 

The main display does not come on at all. That would suggest that BCM as an issue? 

Re the precharge - any suggestions for checking that safely? 

12V battery was freshly charged. I will re-check as it was previously playing up. 

I am more a mechanical guy - so this is getting outside my comfort zone.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Could put a multimeter on the relay posts...This is a hard thing to troubleshoot because of the proprietary nature of the communication...No charging when plugged in and no display when in "Drive" or whatever? Make sure there are no components still on the bench somewhere...

I think the CAN stuff is unlikely, due to the fact that my CAN wiring was super ugly for a while and it still worked fine...I would try and keep as much away from thick power lines—definitely away from the HV lines. It just seems like a long shot, despite everything I read about CAN saying it was important. The only CAN issue I ever had was reversing the twisted pair wires by mistake.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Thanks for tips. There is nothing obvious in what I have done.

My to-do-list was:

1) to complete re-wiring the battery. Complete.
2) Connect all the original wiring again (now that it is in the car) Complete. & hope that is still goes. Fail.
3) Wait for the gearbox coupler/ adaptor.
4) Build motor mounts. Hopefully, the gearbox adaptor can incorporate this.
5) Wait for a new computer - see Resolve controller — Resolve-EV. Re-wire and get rid of the original Leaf looms.
6) New Tesla electric brakes. See: All Brakes & wheels products - EVcreate (page 1)

I will try a fresh look at troubleshooting wiring/ control systems - however it looks like step 5 new computer will be necessary.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 
3) & 4) - The gearbox adaptor, coupler and engine mount steps are in progress with a third part fabricator. Hopefully, I will see some computer models this week. 
5) I completely gave up on the original Leaf wiring. It was just too hard to get it going again after I moved it into the car. I ended up purchasing the computer from Resolve EV and it has arrived. I am very pleased with the quality of construction, support from Isak @ Resolve EV and level of documentation. 

See photos of the completed wiring, computer and my junction box. This is ready to go (if I have not made any mistakes). 






























I need to re-assemble the Leaf battery pack & energise the system again. This will be the big test of the Resolve EV system. I hope to report back in a few days. 

The benefit of the Resolve EV system over the Thunderstruck computer is the ability to re-use the Charge (PDM). 

6) Re the brake booster I decided on the Honda CRV ibooster. I have one on the way. This was very cost effective compared to the Telsa system. 

For more information on the Bosch ibooster see:


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## scottherrington (Jul 3, 2020)

Thanks for showing how your project is going. I'm following with interest as I'm a little behind you in my build.
I'll be particularly interested in how the resolve system works.
Good luck

Sent from my moto g(8) power lite using Tapatalk


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Very cool! The Leaf charger (particularly the 6.6kW) is waaay cheaper than any aftermarket charger I've seen. Can you confirm that the DC/DC converter and BMS are also working (though it looks like it requires the full 24kW pack)?

For US$1,000, I could see buying this for DC/DC and charging alone:









Resolve Controller — Resolve-EV


The Resolve controller makes converting electric cars easy by using recycled parts from Nissan Leafs. The EV conversion kit makes it possible to use the motor, inverter, charger and battery pack from Nissan Leaf models from 2014-2017.




www.resolve-ev.com


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> Very cool! The Leaf charger (particularly the 6.6kW) is waaay cheaper than any aftermarket charger I've seen. Can you confirm that the DC/DC converter and BMS are also working (though it looks like it requires the full 24kW pack)?


I will be using the full/ original battery (with BMS) and the 3.6 kW charger. I will report back when I turn it all on.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Time has passed. Since the last post - I completed the wiring of the Resolve Controller, battery, etc. 

My first attempt did not turn on. 

Given the high stakes (400 V) I decided to take a logical approach and called in a second pair of experienced eyes and also called on Isak from Resolve to help out. 

After careful review it turned out that:


All of my connections to the Resolve controller were correct.
I had purchased switches (to select drive/ neutral/ reverse) which were push button. I assumed that they were normally open - but they were not (and they were normally closed). I believe this was the cause of my issue.
My OBD2 wiring was wrong - I had 12V going to the wrong pin. I don't believe that mattered.
I had not connected a charger sensing cable. This may have been a secondary error on my part.

The good news is that I now have the Resolve EV controller working and I am ready to start the next steps. 

Thanks to Isak from Resolve and also Jake for helping me with the trouble shooting.


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## RustedB&B (Feb 15, 2021)

this is a great build - I like the brake iboosters idea I may have to steal that


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Proof of life: 









I had the motor spinning forward & reverse. Once started it did not stop. When the power was removed from the Resolve Controller it all stopped. Very happy & moving to the next step of mounting everything in the car.


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## imwoody36 (Sep 25, 2011)

matthew.stead said:


> Proof of life:
> View attachment 122100
> 
> 
> I had the motor spinning forward & reverse. Once started it did not stop. When the power was removed from the Resolve Controller it all stopped. Very happy & moving to the next step of mounting everything in the car.


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## imwoody36 (Sep 25, 2011)

I am installing a 2015 leaf into an antique Chris craft. I had the following problems and solutions:

HV interlock error, checked the orange plugs and found them okay, the problem was the inverter to motor fasten point... that original plastic cover needs to be installed. it seems to have a long plastic straw that is an interlock
multiple hv communication codes. connecting and soldering all the body grounds together fixed it.( I measured 5 ohms between some of the case and body grounds before fixing this, now when working it is closer to zero or the limit of my multimeter)
note I am direct driving the prop shaft and my next issue is reversing the spin.
also note...I abandoned the "openinverter version 3 inverterboard because I wanted to keep the nissan charging system. 
here is a link


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 

My machine shop has created a timber template for the connector between the Leaf motor and BMW gearbox. See image of the mockup: 










Time for some more test fitting. The good news is that with the gearbox/ motor adaptor there is no clash with the firewall. 









The iBooster from the Honda CRV fits nicely - or in other words very snugly. The iBooster is the same as Tesla brake booster. Time for a bracket to be fabricated. 









I also ordered a charger but made the mistake of ordering a Type 2 plug rather than Type 1. 🙁


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

I am now looking to use a more simple adaptor - by reusing part of the original gearbox & a simple plate. The machine shop are quoting 3 weeks!!!


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 

The Resolve Controller is now working as the battery, motor, inverter and charge controller. Very happy to have this running. Well done Isak at Resolve controller — Resolve-EV 

I was able to charge the battery today after my new portable Type 1 charger arrived. I also connected the cooling system with the original Leaf water pump and BMW radiator. 

Finally, LeafSpy was also able to connect again. 

Some great progress. 

Nest steps are: 

gearbox/motor adaptor & coupling (still being manufactured)
Engine mounts once the final motor location is confirmed
Respray the engine bay
iBooster brake & new hydraulic lines


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Nice. Is the pump being controller by the original computer? I never could get mine to spin.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> Nice. Is the pump being controller by the original computer? I never could get mine to spin.


@Tremelune - I followed the instructions that Isak put together: 








Wiring Diagram & Fun Facts


Wiring Diagram & Fun Facts Preamble This is the wiring diagram for the Resolve controller that controls the Nissan Leaf charger, inverter, motor and BMS. The inverter and motor have to come from the same car otherwise those components won’t work. Identifying the battery pack can be difficult. Yo...




docs.google.com





I was confused at the start as the pump did not start immediately when it had 12V. As per the documentation from Isak, there is something like a 10-second delay before the pump starts. 

The Nissan Leaf pump does not need any computer control - just power.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update - there has been lots happening: 

- Engine bay respray 









- Adaptor plate designed and constructed. Note that I am using half of the original gearbox from the Leaf.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

- Dashboard fully refurbished. It looks fantastic.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

- iBooster brake fitted (still need hydraulic lines) - this is from a Honda CRV - but same as from Tesla. This means I don't need the vacuum boosters anymore. This was a significant challenge because I had to line up the brake pushrod, avoid the steering column and mount it to the firewall. I used 16 mm Aluminium which had been water cut. 
















- Suspension reconditioned - may as well do it now!!!









- Preliminary engine mounts - I am trying to use the original mount plus the a new 16 mm AL plate as shown.


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

That fits amazingly well. Very cool that you can keep the full power stack intact, and you can probably get some battery up front, too! This car is gonna fly.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

@Tremelune I am not sure on the clearance at the top of the charger to the bonnet. As you have previously suggested I could make a new lid & cut down on the honeycomb.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

I own a BMW 2002 and I leased a 2017 Leaf.
My approach would be mid engine (trunk/rear seat) with battery and controllers forward.
Keep on this forum did a space limited leaf front wheel drive train in an old Mini Cooper.
You are at the point where you can still consider these changes. The BMW trans, drive shaft, diff, rear axles are not the strongest bits nor do they add anything except complexity, weight and problems for battery placement. Just my opinion and either way I applaud your efforts.


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## gary32 (May 19, 2020)

There are 2 BMW 3.0 Coupe projects I have seen where a Tesla based rear sub frame and motor assembly were fabricated with forward mounted batteries, charger and controller. 50/50 weight distribution and simplicity (least number of parts) in a 2002 is the key to a great end product you can drive anywhere including the track. I love your creative thinking and open minded approach.
Thanks for letting me borrow your thread.


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

HI Matthew,

Nice project you have, very clean. I to have a 1973 2002 on going project, bit of start -stop project ( mainly stop ). 

Currently doing what you are, fitting a leaf motor to the current gearbox, The Resolve google link brought me to your page.

I went ahead and bought the Thunderstruck Vcu some time ago as that was all that was available then. Very impressed with the Resolve controller as a all one solution.

Id like to see how to making up the motor mounts as Im stuck there at the moment, there doesn't seem much space over the original mounts.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

@zippy500 great to see someone else doing a 2002 & leaf conversion. I am very happy that the Resolve controller came onto the market as I was not that keen on the Thunderstruck VCU. 

I had a plan for engine mounts however my automotive engineer (who is required to sign-off the build) did not like it. I am working on my plan B. 

My new plan (B) is an Aluminium C Channel beam bolted across the front of the motor & supports down to a new steel member which is fitted between the chassis and the engine/ suspension subframe. 

See concept images below. Note the first image is upside down & will change slightly.


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

Does the engineer have to pass your design before to can make it up ?

I did consider something similar to what you are thinking. I just thought that it would a lot of weight at just one end, the gearbox mount isn't very substantial, thought it might strain in the middle on the adapter plate. I am more thinking to try if possible, to make some mounts centre of the motor.

How does your motor coolant inlets line up. mine look dangerously close the original motor mount that sticks up, I am half tempted to cut the original mount down.

I did the same with using half leaf gearbox as a adaptor and made a 20mm ali plate to mount the two together.

have you made your coupler ?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

The engineer does not need to approve the design before I proceed - but if he does not like what I have done then I need to change it. 

The engineer was much more concerned about torque than the weight of the motor. This is why the mounting points need to be nearer the body. This is because of the improved torque over the ICE.

I did actually cut out the original LHS engine mount because of the cooling pipes. I figured I could not use it anyway so may as well get rid of it. My first plan was to enable a return to ICE but I have gone too far now. My priority is now to make it look as elegant as possible. 

I looked at various coupler options. I ruled out mating the old Leaf spline with the BMW clutch because I could not get a clutch with a plate on it. 

The coupling in the photo below looks great. It was however expensive (nearly 1200 AUD). It has a bearing which goes into the half leaf gearbox.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

"Power plant" completed.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Mounting plate for the front of the Leaf motor. I will mount an aluminium Channel across this plate & take the motor (including torque) load at 2 rubber isolators.


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## Bratitude (Jan 23, 2020)

Nice project, I have leaf couplers available. Machined out of 4140 steel

For Sale: em57 leaf motor couplers


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

@Bratitude thanks for the post. 

I had a very good look at your couplers. My issue was that I was using half the Leaf gearbox with a bearing. I also needed to make a spline anyway for the BMW gearbox side. Unfortunately, that meant that I needed a custom coupler - with the female splines on both ends. 

I tried to find a plate BMW clutch but the way they were manufactured did not provide a mating face.


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## Bratitude (Jan 23, 2020)

matthew.stead said:


> @Bratitude thanks for the post.
> 
> I had a very good look at your couplers. My issue was that I was using half the Leaf gearbox with a bearing. I also needed to make a spline anyway for the BMW gearbox side. Unfortunately, that meant that I needed a custom coupler - with the female splines on both ends.
> 
> I tried to find a plate BMW clutch but the way they were manufactured did not provide a mating face.


if your salvaging the parts of the leaf gear box, why not the splines from that as well?

also, I don’t see an issue with the bmw clutch disks. Just machine the spline centure down, and do a interference fit into a bored out shaft. then tig weld.

plenty of bmw conversations done this way


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

@Bratitude - some good points there. I could have taken that approach. 

I don't the ability to do the work myself & was let down by a couple of machine shops. I think I took the path of least resistance (which was probably also the most expensive). 

Next time!


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Motor frame and support complete. Ready for installation of the electric motor & gearbox.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

The motor is in place. Electronics almost there. Just need some brakes & should be able to do a test drive soon. I am waiting for new brake lines after I installed the iBooster and got rid of the vacuum booster.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Huge step forward today. The wheels are spinning!!

Now it is time to get some brakes and I can get it out of the shed just like Dala did.


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## gotham (May 26, 2019)

Looks great! Subscribed.


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

Nice work


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 

After getting everything running the next step was to secure the batteries. 

In Australia there is a condition of registration that the batteries need to be restrained to cope with a 20G load in the case of a front-on crash. 

After much consideration of options & desire not to rewire the BMS, I came up with the following solution: 


Split the 24 cell pack in two & mount them vertically in the boot.
"Fold" the two 8 + 4 packs into a 6 high x 2 wide pack. The two packs are located behind the two front seats.
Use M8 threaded high tensile rod to hold down the packs.
Remove some bodywork to allow mounting of packs behind the seats.

The 12 cell packs are 50 kg each. This equals 10 kN force to be restrained. This can be achieved with 8 x M8 high tensile mounts/ treaded rods. 

See:


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

I am happy with the battery pack mounting. 

The only issue is that after the battery change the system is now not starting. 

It seems the precharge contactor is closing - but not the second one. I am getting no DTC's from the BMS - but I am getting one from the Motor/Inverter. 

I am working with Isak at Resolve EV to do some troubleshooting. 

See LeafSpy DTC: 









Any ideas?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

ps - my mechanical engineering skills are at my limit on this one. I think I need some specialist help.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Video/ audio for all that I am getting:


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## imwoody36 (Sep 25, 2011)

I have my Leaf Boat functioning, I suggest posting what if any changes have been made to the battery bms wiring.
( mr. obvious...sorry!) pay attention to grounding the bms case. and in my case...all the LEAF grounds must be good and together. this was a big help to me once I took care to join everything ( grounds) solidly


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## imwoody36 (Sep 25, 2011)




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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

imwoody36 said:


> I have my Leaf Boat functioning, I suggest posting what if any changes have been made to the battery bms wiring.
> ( mr. obvious...sorry!) pay attention to grounding the bms case. and in my case...all the LEAF grounds must be good and together. this was a big help to me once I took care to join everything ( grounds) solidly


Thanks @imwoody36 - I will check all the earthing. This could actually be the issue as the BMS is currently not bolted down and in the changes (re-arranging) I took out some earthing. 

The good news is that LeafSpy is actually talking to the BMS and there are no errors there. 

At Isak from Resolve's suggestion, I checked the pre-charge resistor and found it was no longer functioning. I have ordered and new one and it will arrive in the week of 30th August.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

My only change to the BMS wiring was to extend the wires by soldering a length in the middle. This was required when I split the 24 horizontal cell pack into two. 

I was able to fold the other packs and make sure the BMS wiring was not changed (except for the HV connections).


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 

With the support of Isak @ Resolve I have resolved the issue.

Despite all my careful work (labelling etc) I made a major mistake in reversing the polarity of HV wires to the Motor/Invertor. I feel stupid admitting this but hopefully, it is a reminder to double and triple check. 

The good news was that the pre-charge resistor acted as a fuse and no additional damage was done (at least that I am aware of). 

There are now no DTC's and the motor spins. The voltages & resistance etc are as expected per Isak's video.

Everything took a while because the first (and second) precharge resistor had to come from the UK to Australia. I blew up two resistors before realising my mistake. 

For reference, this is the replacement resistor I used. I could not get an OEM one from Japan. It was almost a swapin-swapout as they have the same dimensions but needed an extra lead termination. 
https://au.element14.com/cgs-te-con...ton/res-33r-5-40w-radial-wirewound/dp/2805379 

I now have a couple of resistors spare.


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## gregski (Sep 6, 2011)

nice work


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 


iBooster brakes now have hydraulic fluid & are operational
Battery, motor, etc are in their final location
I was able to move the car under its own electric power for the first time. This is such as massive milestone.

I gave the car some air by driving it out the doors: 























The next steps are: 


Reduce the height of the charger cover (so the bonnet will fit & close)
Tidy up LV wiring & mount precharge / isolator boxes
Restoration (carpet, headliner, interior trim, windscreens, etc)
Complete engineering certification


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## gotham (May 26, 2019)

Congrats! Very inspiring. Keep it up.


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## gregski (Sep 6, 2011)

my Gawd such a clean build, and that battery placement in the cabin to offset the weight of the driver, brilliant I tell you brilliant, ha ha


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## G00se (Mar 19, 2020)

matthew.stead said:


> My only change to the BMS wiring was to extend the wires by soldering a length in the middle. This was required when I split the 24 horizontal cell pack into two.
> 
> I was able to fold the other packs and make sure the BMS wiring was not changed (except for the HV connections).


I'm looking to do exactly the same rearranging of the modules.

So I think this answers my question - I just need to keep the wiring the same.

Do you have details on how you jointed the 8 + 4 packs into one?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

G00se said:


> I'm looking to do exactly the same rearranging of the modules.
> 
> So I think this answers my question - I just need to keep the wiring the same.
> 
> Do you have details on how you jointed the 8 + 4 packs into one?












See photo of the final arrangement. I also responded on your thread. 
The folding involved:- 


removing longer busbar between stacks
cutting excess plastic cover (various locations)
removing bolts
with terminals facing up fold the cells on themselves
reinstate shorter busbar to connect packs
cut the bottom steel plate to to only be 2 cells wide
reinstall M8 bolts (with plates above and below for compression)

I hope that makes sense. I did not need to redo any BMS wiring.


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## G00se (Mar 19, 2020)

matthew.stead said:


> View attachment 124217
> 
> 
> See photo of the final arrangement. I also responded on your thread.
> ...


Perfect, thanks.

That’s exactly what I need to achieve size wise.

I’ll give that a go when I next get back in the garage.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Update: 

Done: 

Reduce the height of the charger cover (so the bonnet will fit & close)
Restoration (carpet, headliner, interior trim, windscreens, etc)
The cover over the charge is made from polycarbonate. I am very happy with the way it looks. The bonnet now closes. There is a small safety microswitch that needs to be pressed with the new cover. 
















I also updated the instruments to include the screen/ switches to change gears & isolator. See: 










The next steps are:

Tidy up LV wiring & mount precharge / isolator boxes
Fix a few items like the bumper bar, batteries, ie tidy up. 
Complete engineering certification
It is now getting close.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

I am also covering the batteries inside the car to improve safety and also reduce the direct sun.


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## windraver (Aug 29, 2021)

matthew.stead said:


> Update:
> 
> Done:
> 
> ...


Are there no heat issues with using polycarbonate as a cover for the PDM? Also what is the total height of the PDM with the new cover? (I have the same height issue and was going to relocate the PDM/Charger.)


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

windraver said:


> Are there no heat issues with using polycarbonate as a cover for the PDM?


I'm not surprised if there's no temperature problem, but I would want to confirm that the cover doesn't need to be conductive for shielding - do the slotted panels visible inside handle that? I've seen the stock cover, of course, but not got my hands on one to determine what it is made of.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Polycarb is not going to be an arcflash barrier...


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

windraver said:


> Are there no heat issues with using polycarbonate as a cover for the PDM? Also what is the total height of the PDM with the new cover? (I have the same height issue and was going to relocate the PDM/Charger.)


@windraver I have been out of action. Sorry for delay in responding. 

The cover is 87 mm high total (including flange and seal).


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

brian_ said:


> I'm not surprised if there's no temperature problem, but I would want to confirm that the cover doesn't need to be conductive for shielding - do the slotted panels visible inside handle that? I've seen the stock cover, of course, but not got my hands on one to determine what it is made of.


I have not had any EMC issues with the resolve controller. The charging is obviously on a stationary vehicle thing.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

remy_martian said:


> Polycarb is not going to be an arcflash barrier...


@remy_martian from my limited reading arcflash is predominantly caused by mechanical related issues ie dropping something across bus bars. The cover should address that risk. There is also a metal bonnet or hood to cover the top of the charger. Can you elaborate a little more on what the concern is? The contactors and other HV junctions are in PVC boxes. Sorry if I have missed your point.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Almost at completion. 









Legal requirement to have the nice little EV triangle and the number plate. 









Showing the reinforcement and high tensile bolts going through the vehicle floor and holding the batteries down.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

BMW2002E is now at the Auto Electrician for safety review & also to resolve a low voltage issue. 

I was able to drive at the speed limit on the way there with no issues at all. 

Some helpful feedback from the auto electrician: 


A few more protective covers for the HV cables are needed when it runs through the passenger area (no surprise)
More frequent fixing is needed to support cables.
A protective barrier in the boot is needed to stop loose metal from hitting the battery/terminals in case of an accident

Engineering certification is scheduled for 2 weeks time.


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## mons2b (Nov 17, 2015)

matthew.stead said:


> Almost at completion.
> View attachment 127385
> 
> 
> ...


the bolts going through remind me of some on my e36 but yours are neatly just long enough where as mine poke down. The rules you follow in AU are broadly similar to ours. We have to put massive high voltage stickers front and rear though. Funny as new electric cars dont. I guess they will just assume everyone knows a factory ev on sight..


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## eBIMMER (Feb 28, 2020)

Very nice build! From one Leaf powered BMW owner to another -- nice work!!


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

After a very very long time my auto electrician completed the review and made modifications to improve safety and operations. This very long delay was partly for my convenience and partly as it was a project for the electrician and not a priority (for them). 

The majority of changes were in the 12V systems and also some additional support for HV cables. I was generally pleased with the quality of my work and the minor HV changes they made. 

The suspension has now been fully checked. 

Brakes are being overhauled as the front callipers have been grabbing a bit. 

The engineering review is scheduled for this week. 

All this is working towards this classic car run which has just opened up an EV category: 








EV Conversion Category


In a world-first, and in alignment with a shift within historic vehicle circles, the Bay to Birdwood will welcome electric converted historic vehicles into the 2022 event. What is an EV? An EV (electric vehicle) is a vehicle that is powered by an electric motor and battery or series batteries...



baytobirdwood.history.sa.gov.au





A deadline is good!


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## UglyCarFan (8 mo ago)

Matthew: I admire your persistence, and attention to detail. You have a great project. With the experience you have gained during the conversion, if you were to do the project again, would you still mount the motor up front, or would you place it behind the seats as someone else suggested? I'm not considering a BMW conversion of any kind, but it might be valuable insight to others who are considering conversion of a RWD vehicle. I've gotten into the habit lately of looking at the back seat area of cars I like, and imagining the seat completely removed, and the space taken up by either a battery pack, or a Leaf motor. 

Good luck with your project!


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## gnx_greg (5 mo ago)

UglyCarFan said:


> Matthew: I admire your persistence, and attention to detail. You have a great project. With the experience you have gained during the conversion, if you were to do the project again, would you still mount the motor up front, or would you place it behind the seats as someone else suggested? I'm not considering a BMW conversion of any kind, but it might be valuable insight to others who are considering conversion of a RWD vehicle. I've gotten into the habit lately of looking at the back seat area of cars I like, and imagining the seat completely removed, and the space taken up by either a battery pack, or a Leaf motor.
> 
> Good luck with your project!


i've been ruminating on rear motor placement on a bwm as well. seems doable but have yet to see it done on anything other then an old vw. anyone try this or know of someone who did?


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Were any of those wiring changes notable for the rest of us, or just like...fuses in the right place, etc?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

^^ Damien McGuire did a rear motor on one of his Beemers. It's on his Youtube channel.


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## gnx_greg (5 mo ago)

remy_martian said:


> ^^ Damien McGuire did a rear motor on one of his Beemers. It's on his Youtube channel.


sorry, should have clarified, i'm looking for someone who used leaf motor/gearbox and maybe axles on a bwm with the motor/gearbox in place of the dif.


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## Pehr (Jun 6, 2021)

gnx_greg said:


> sorry, should have clarified, i'm looking for someone who used leaf motor/gearbox and maybe axles on a bwm with the motor/gearbox in place of the dif.


Similar as to Isak has done on his Porsche 924.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

UglyCarFan said:


> Matthew: I admire your persistence, and attention to detail. You have a great project. With the experience you have gained during the conversion, if you were to do the project again, would you still mount the motor up front, or would you place it behind the seats as someone else suggested? I'm not considering a BMW conversion of any kind, but it might be valuable insight to others who are considering conversion of a RWD vehicle. I've gotten into the habit lately of looking at the back seat area of cars I like, and imagining the seat completely removed, and the space taken up by either a battery pack, or a Leaf motor.
> 
> Good luck with your project!


@UglyCarFan - Thanks! I would do it the same way again. I did not want to cut into the bodywork in a major way which would be required for the motor in the back. It is actually a pretty good use of space where the old ICE was. If I had the motor in the back I would have to do a lot more work separating and housing the batteries.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Tremelune said:


> Were any of those wiring changes notable for the rest of us, or just like...fuses in the right place, etc?


@Tremelune There was no rewiring of the HV. It was only the way the cables were mounted (or not). More around stopping rubbing and the potential to cut the insulation. 

On the LV side, it was pretty standard things like getting windscreen wipers, lights etc to work properly. There we also some issues with the colour of LV cables. The earthing points were also improved which was an issue in the original BMW.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

gnx_greg said:


> sorry, should have clarified, i'm looking for someone who used leaf motor/gearbox and maybe axles on a bwm with the motor/gearbox in place of the dif.


At least for my BMW this would have required major major structural work right where the rear suspension & rear seat is, which I was not prepared to do. I did not really see the benefit of this approach over re-using the gearbox in my case.


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## UglyCarFan (8 mo ago)

matthew.stead said:


> @UglyCarFan - Thanks! I would do it the same way again. I did not want to cut into the bodywork in a major way which would be required for the motor in the back. It is actually a pretty good use of space where the old ICE was. If I had the motor in the back I would have to do a lot more work separating and housing the batteries.


 Matthew: That makes perfect sense. The Leaf really fits nicely in that space. A couple of my friends have suggested trying to do a dual motor/awd set up, which has me thinking of various possibilities. Frankly, I don't think I'm up for the challenge of trying to mate that much stuff in any particular car. And then there is the expense....

The Leaf seems like an ideal platform for a lot of projects. I am very concerned with the topic Remy has mentioned a few times...shortages of parts. We already have a massive real estate project on hold due to lack of some critical roofing materials, so the last thing I need is to wait on some chips or a harness.

I hope you continue to post updates on your project. It is very interesting reading.


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## Cooly_Chris (10 mo ago)

@matthew.stead - Cheers for the inspiration! I'm in the process of getting a Leaf to do a resto/mod on an old Toyota, so I read your posts with interest, particularly regarding engineering standards for Oz.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

Cooly_Chris said:


> @matthew.stead - Cheers for the inspiration! I'm in the process of getting a Leaf to do a resto/mod on an old Toyota, so I read your posts with interest, particularly regarding engineering standards for Oz.


My engineer did a detailed inspection last Friday and will come back with some assessments. The initial focus was on: 


Clearance between steering and new motor
Sharp edges which could cause a maintenance risk
Fixing of the battery

just waiting for additional information required


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## scotta1725 (Nov 9, 2017)

Did you get the engineering sorted out?


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

@scotta1725 - I have been a bit slow with the finishing touches. In terms of the final engineering approval, I believe most items have been accepted. I need to do some tidy-up works which in the overall scheme of things is not major. 

Importantly the battery fixing method (M8 high tensile rods) with 50 x 75 mm plates (rounded edges) has been accepted. The M8 rods go through the batteries with a spreader plate on top (see previous posts) and through the floor of the car. 

The rear set of batteries has a top and bottom restrain (plus the structure between the boot / rear seat area). 

I don't have to upgrade the suspension (as I have deleted the rear seat). 

Electrical wiring is fine as I have reused the original HV Nissan setup (with an extension to cables).

Finally, I have had a very nice test run doing 140 km in one day. I was very very pleased. 

The tidy-up works include: 

Vent for lead acid battery
Extend bolts & install plates for the batteries
Pack beneath battery reinforcement generally
Fit new steering tie rod to provide additional clearance (same geometry)
Fit sticker for brake fluid specification
Confirm wheel offsets & look at new tyres
Clear oil from differential
Fix new brake lines to body


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)




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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

This was the grand launch of the BMW 2002e!


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## scotta1725 (Nov 9, 2017)

matthew.stead said:


> This was the grand launch of the BMW 2002e!


Congrats on getting the car to the event. Plus I understand congrats are in order for coming first in the new e-category.


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## matthew.stead (Jun 8, 2020)

@scotta1725 unfortunately I don't believe I was eligible for the new e-category as I had not completed all the engineering and approval processes! My aim was jut to finish and was very happy with the outcome.


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