# Finally found matching lift motors, please look!



## Georgia Tech (Dec 5, 2008)

Brett,
The Littel wires are brush ware indicators...if you want to get real safisitcated with your intsrament panel you can hook these up and it can tell you how many miles or in this case hours you have left on your brushes...


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## Georgia Tech (Dec 5, 2008)

These are awsome looking motors from the outside...how much did they cost? When you take them apart take good photos and post them...This what I would like to use for my go Kart project....


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## Georgia Tech (Dec 5, 2008)

the other littel connector in front of the motor is a temperature sensor...another nice thing to connect to your instrument cluster..


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

I know, I actually thought of you when I found these motors. I figured the little wires were wear sensors, thats awesome!! And the temp sensor is sweet too!

Anyway, I'll be totally rebuilding if I get them, I'll have plenty of picks. I'll ask the guy to find one for you as well. I'll let you know.


Anyone else see anything that might be a problem? Thanks!


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## Georgia Tech (Dec 5, 2008)

take pictures of the insides book and post em...

I found an 11 incher for littel or nothing in good shape too....except the reare end housing piece is cracked in several places...but I think I can get another one of these..


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

booksix said:


> Found a pair of matching 9" motors (for inline coupling) from Hyster lifts. The motor model number is 339128. Some pics are below, please help if you can. Thanks!


This motor looks almost the same as mine. Mine is also a Hyster, number 368579. The only thing that looks different on mine is the C/E plate and shaft. Mine was splined both ends and the plate didn't protrude as much as this one. The secondary mount and rest of it looks the same though. Jim Husted said that it would be a very good motor for an EV. Pics of mine below. I cut off the mount and turned the barrel on a lathe. I have some good details on the motor rebuild on my thread. I also turned and keyed both shafts.


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## Georgia Tech (Dec 5, 2008)

book,
lets look at the insides of these things man....looks good on the outside but lets look at what kind of guts they have...


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

yeah, I'll have plenty of pics. But the motors are in IL right now. I need to get them shipping to San Diego. It'll probably be a couple weeks.


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## Georgia Tech (Dec 5, 2008)

Believe it or not booky I have a motor I bought last week for 187 bucks...its an 11 inch motor...I'll get pics of its insides in a few days...


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

holy crap! that's sick! You'll be doing crazy gokart wheelies in no time! So where are _your_ pics?!?


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

Anyone have any idea what the max rpm on these motors would be? I'm going direct direct drive so I need rpm. I don't mind adding banding, but I'd like to know the max rpm without banding before hand


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

booksix said:


> Anyone have any idea what the max rpm on these motors would be?


Hi books,

You might live at 6000 RPM. But I wouldn't take the chance. If it were me, I'd use 5000 for absolute max and 4500 for top speed in the vehicle. The armature might hold together faster than that, but up at those RPM, you'll see increased motor losses and brush/bearing wear.

My opinion,

major


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

Yeah, I didn't think I'd go above 4500, 5000 as an absolute max for moments. Would you suggest banding anyway (as I'll be doing a complete rebuild)?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

booksix said:


> Yeah, I didn't think I'd go above 4500, 5000 as an absolute max for moments. Would you suggest banding anyway (as I'll be doing a complete rebuild)?


Hi Brett,

I think those are GE motors. And I think there is steel banding on the armature. You're probably not going to come close to reproducing the integrity of the GE factory band job. I'd leave it alone unless there is obvious damage or defect. Anyway, the real worry is the comm. And not much you can do there. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Regards,

major


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

what's the deal with the comm?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

booksix said:


> what's the deal with the comm?


Just it is usually the weak link in the overspeed condition. The first to go boom. Comms come in different construction. And different quality. Hard telling what yours would do, but as how they were intended for lift trucks, probably good for the RPM we're talking about.

Comms are copper segments (bars) with keys (kinda like dovetails) on the bottom. Mica is placed between the bars. Then the copper ring is either insert molded or built-up. The built-up comms have mica V-rings and are compressed with a large rivet or threaded tube and nut. The nut type comms can actually be heated and tightened. The rivet or molded cannot.

Anyway, even though the comm is smaller diameter, the mass of the copper bars and construction makes for a likely suspect to fail first. Although I have seen cases were the armature conductors opposite the comm (the knuckles) mushroom out. There should be a band around those.

Little commutator lesson for ya.

major


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