# Fisher Fury 160KW



## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Hi all Efans 

I am Arnaud from Paris / France , nice to meet you

To start I want my car to go fast and be exciting

here I did manage to 
http://kitcar.bb-fr.com/t7261-fisher-fury-zzr

now I want it to be astonishing so it will be converted 

I have 2 power train & loads of lith battery
talking 400V 400 A 4x4 AWD WTF twin motor Front & Rear

I would be honored to show the process in your forum
It will be so helpfull to share infos with your Car Intelligency America

I thank you in advance for all your Welcoming


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

As it was before 









Kawa 1100 ZZR keihin flatslide 41mm 150hp 450kg


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

now a stripper


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Motor asynchrone no magnet 
reductor & diff combo

controller 400V 400 Amps

both liquid cooled


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Loved my toy 









hope it will be wilder


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

first work on the Rear subframe


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)




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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Here I go to the bitch party

















































beuuurk job


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

I was planning on swapping a ZX14R but never end up


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

to end up gas stories my ZX14R engine will go on a Buggy

here a blown zx12R matched to a transaxle gearbox

























note billet crankcase , nice

here the euro champ buggy W16 engine from Bentley or bugatti veyron ?























those duds are not kidding


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Problem is that the reductor is supposed to run flat 
line of gear has to be oiled by deeping
in my case I will have to think about a seperate tank & a pump to activate a flow wich will drain the fullfilled gearbox






















body is waiting to run silently on one of my other project
glastron carlson cvx20 jetboat V8 Jaguar XKR powered






















but it's another story
Wish I have 4 hands & 2 heads


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Chassis is barely clean , electro guns have to finish the job

















rust primer & paint by spray bomb , no time & money for a powder coating
all panels are pop riveted to much work to disassemble


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## sholland (Jan 16, 2012)

Very interesting... What motor and transaxle is that?


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

I have no much infos about the motor
It comes from a serie of peugeot dlivery vehicule order by LA POSTE wich is our nationale service , in 2007
at that time credit where high to devellop electric vehicule for the administration since none of our french car company where offering some.
Venturi in Monaco gain the market & built +/- 50 peugeot Partner 
it was one of the first big order for this type of vehicule not going through french big constructor like renault or peugeot citroen etc
Then Venturi had to prove its savoir faire & develloped the power train with excellence , they asked MES SA in switzerland to built it 
I think they were already in business together since Venturi was implicated in EV from long time , they did the Tesla roadster with the Lotus elise chassis , Venturi sold the Tesla brand to where it is now..

Venturi 
http://www.venturi.fr/


MES 
http://www.cebi.com/cebi/content/index_en.html?a=5&b=9&c=20

MES power controller
http://www.mes-sa.com/
the MES french division of power electronic management 

Motor asynchrone cell rotor written 90 Volt 150 Amps 25 KW 
Controler written 400V 400 Amps looks like hand built
motor will take 400V & 400 amps for sure , no magnet to be demagntized
All is watercooled 
Reductor was able to hold 2 tonnes of car & loads, Fury will be around 400kg , concern about the non lsd diff ... will see on time 
I hope that will blast


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## kennybobby (Aug 10, 2012)

Tres bien! Thanks for sharing the photos of your awesome project(s).

i'm sure you will figure out a way to recirculate oil in the gearbox--be sure to take pictures when you open it up, there may be some internal oil circuits already that could be modified or routed to work.

It won't have the sound of the kawi motor but you will love the electric motor torque.


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Merci ! yes there are no problems only solutions...

Can't wait to mix toooorque & sileeeeence


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Painted the drive train

 

New LHD steering rack high ratio 2,4 heavy duty competichone as they say 300€ ebay.uk


Front spindles are modifyed shortened MK2 ford escort
Rear Hub carrier , Wishbones F & R , are hand made by Fisher
shocks are GAZshock uk 
Upper wishbone rocker type , first model plain steel compares to the new one tubular
My chassis is out of the antique made , built in 1998 registred in 2001


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Fury

I am an old cynic - 
If I was in your position I would do some measuring and modeling of that suspension system

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Competition...3287/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1361138211&sr=8-1

The reason I say this is that one of my friends bought a very fancy single seater with pushrod suspension 
When he drove it - it was terrible

We analyzed the suspension and it was all wrong - falling spring rate - wheel camber change

The car had been "designed" as "monkey see monkey do" with no understanding of how it actually worked

We made new bell-cranks and moved some of the suspension attachment points and it became an enormous amount better 
But it's initial horribleness put my friend off and it was sold

From what I have seen a lot of "kit" chassis have been "designed" purely by looks,
It will not take long to check it and the initial analysis will be very handy when you start to improve it


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Sure that the rear "Chapman strut" seem to have a poor simple design 
But it works ok , I did several track days & car was handling very great
here at Monthlery for a parade the only vid I have

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nm...DvjVQa1PpcFOebkpvIcDUy0BKRNos3_rnipgih-V3GJI=

More recent chassis got double wishbone on rear & more sophisticate rear frame
but it would have been more problematic to insert the motor....
I'm eventually planning on ad traction bars on the side to free the wishbone & the shock from excess torsion on loads


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Fury
Looks good in the video, 
I'm a measurement freak (Quality Manager) so I would be checking and recording anyway 

In my experience from doing hillclimbs and sprints a few decades ago more sophisticated suspension at the club motorsport level tends to lead to worse performance


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

I did a full geometry at a time & achieve a good alignement & camber angle, measurments where ok , Fisher is known to offer good quality kits , like many other on UK market. This is the dud who build it that makes the difference at the end  !

Same vid on the way to Monthlery , with my mates , Lotus 11 replica hayabusa faaaaaaast & Tvr cerbera 4.5 superfaaaaaaaaaast

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6f9cCFfDwq4


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Lotus 11 after the busa swap , trying to solve a power problem , finally we found that the fuel pump was not clearing the defect mode on the ecu.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-t...-6kj2mFs3Iysy__4WM62RxpILOmaF9kBZ3iQUCBPZT7lw

something that I guess won't happen with the furylectric


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

sunday meeting in chateau de vincennes, sorry for the poor vid quality

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcD...NzR0VzKawTYdL8XLJJizQHRIOFyZS7qscVEeWVktOahJQ


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

bebert came up


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

le reducteur italien 
























we test drive a vette after he worked the whole rear train


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

http://www.carrarodrivetech.com/en/


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

http://www.carrarodrivetech.com/en/

View attachment TB_transmission_1.pdf


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

les ritals
View attachment CV_1.pdf


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Bottom motor mounts are solved


























































had to cut away to free the bush
2 more fix points on the upper side , clean all of that & the cradle is ok 







starting point


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Now LHD


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Cradle fits ok













motor also


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

what left to do
rear motor mounts







upper cradle fix







rear cradle tubes to cage the whole thing












but enough for a sunday


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

I did it all blue



















Really think it's cool


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Fury
That motor looks like quite a lot of weight high up - could you have mounted the "gearbox" lying down?
Low C of G is goood
I spent a lot of time ensuring that all of the heavy bits on the device were on the floor

Also with the motor bolted to the gearbox you need to resist wheel torque - a lot more than motor torque - is your frame designed to resist wheel torque and feed it into the chassis?

It does look pretty substantial - is it rubber mounted?


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Duncan said:


> Hi Fury
> That motor looks like quite a lot of weight high up - could you have mounted the "gearbox" lying down?


Could be an oil level requirement that the gearbox is upright, might even be a breather, the CG showed up on my design radar too. I cringe when I see all that steel trellis but it seems to go alright on the track.
Nice job, impressive how much work you get done.


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## samwichse (Jan 28, 2012)

Furylectric said:


> I did it all blue
> View attachment 55817
> 
> Really think it's cool


I think you might be color blind...


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Yes duncan I wish I could have lowered this mass...
But it would have push it back "en porte a faux arierre" (sorry) like a Porsche ok
How would I ve done to build a cradle so back off the rear wheel base ...?
It would have stressed the rear upper chassis too much
I did compromise between simplicity & best technics
& in fact the trans/reductor is less weight than my ex sierra diff , the combo motor/trans a bit more than diff & gas tank with 25L wich was implanted quiet high 
I was really concern in the position of the motor and had to take a route
Put it on the left side so i would convert to LHd , before with bike engine on the front left it was hard to achieve a LHD & btw a 90kg engine offcentered like it was is not at first sight a good option , ok with the driver only but with a passenger ....but it was working great 
This car is very low , it doesn't show on pics but you really watch under skirts when riding
So high weight level is to be relativised & compares to my billy & my wide shoulders sticking out the seat .. it will be flooded
No chassis was not planned to this but I think ( & I hope!!) it will support his conversion
Solid tubes are surrounging the upper back , diff cradle at first was on rubber bush
I will ad some upper fix & a triangle frame on the back of the cradle as I tried to show in a last pic , motor is also rubber bushed in cradle & chassis , so rubber everywhere I'm also concern in life !!


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Yes with the gearboxe in this position the lube is critical
When layed down flat the 3 shafts are bathed with oil & lube by wading 
Then i have to fill the case up & create a lot of pressure & drag from the oil
What my options Big breathers , lines & tank , pump to make a circulation ?
Get a psy to solve a depression ?? 

But what a nice forum is made for then ?


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

samwichse said:


> I think you might be color blind...


Really  ???


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Fury
You probably already know this but talking about your rubber mounts

With an IC engine the mounts are very soft - they need to be to soft as a engine is a nasty thing which keeps trying to jump up and down
The rubbers are trying to isolate a fairly low frequency

With an electric motor rubber mounts are still a good idea but they can be much much stiffer as the vibrations that they are trying to isolate are of a much higher frequency

Most track cars do have much stiffer rubbers but with an electric motor you can go stiff with no problems


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

OK it's not like that I have much of choice... I take auto parts & mix all that 
For instance I'm going to the dismantler to find some bars ended with bushs so I could build the rear triangled frame. as you must have seen ? I'm not an expert in welding....I only have a little inverter..so as simple as building a tube with a bush end is bothering me...For the bottom motor mount I had to machine a special dimension tube ,hard to find, to insert the bush , it took me for ever ! could have been faster if i've bought material on those website


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

went to the my breaker friend













Found used shocks that are pretty thin & long as I need



















& also a lil lookheed tank

He dismantle all kind of car







ma ma ma ma ma breaker
he taught her four sons







To handle there guns






right !!


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

drilled the discs to 







huge loss of weight 

130G...

& huge gain in look






heavy!!


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Orange Mechanic rippens


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## gileadgarage (Feb 26, 2016)

Very cool car, love it.
Great project!


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Thanks !

Was thinking of swaping the wheels 
they aren't the right offset on front & look not right anyway
I like deep dish it gives an old look & center cap also
Found that








could do with a paint job like that


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

Duncan said:


> Hi Fury
> You probably already know this but talking about your rubber mounts
> 
> With an IC engine the mounts are very soft - they need to be to soft as a engine is a nasty thing which keeps trying to jump up and down
> ...


Interesting. Just discovered this with my KM3 Sherpa.Have replaced l/s gearbox mount with an: NPR450 Isuzu engine mount and it stabilized the transmission. So now I'll replace the engine mounts with the same mounts. Any noise to the cabin will still be less than the I.C.E.


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Well...the wheels






cheap&fit






looks like BMW's






Could end cool


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Finished the motor mounts using the shocks I've found at the breaker


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## jacksdad (Apr 13, 2015)

nice i like those mounts


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Thanks Jack ! This was very easy to do , Did all that today








Right tube is too close the motor.. I had to bent it & put some washers to align correctly













I will finish the rear frame with an horizontal tube for rigidity







time to dissasemble to finish weldings 







subframe is falling apart Motor hanging on














It stays lot of work on it....2 more upper mounts & an overall welding/cleaning







Had to cutaway someway to install the gearbox


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Put a sheet of Dybon to cover the butt holes














There's one still ?!? Ha it's me

I like the rear duct


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Was thinkin of those trailer tailights






a shiny butt with 2 ray....of light

http://www.amazon.com/2-red-Lights-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00HEZNMZE


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Hi Got my nervs out to end the subframe











































Loads of welding & hesitations I wish I could have done a new one but it will be ok


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

did work on the dauphine made in US in the 70'
here with a bunch of Renault , clio & Zoe
It will be exposed by Renault Com on the Formule E Race in Paris next week
Thanks for the brand new Zoe pack !!!


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

welded everywhere , will be strong but not very good looking welds..


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Well let's try the motor fit
this is very heavy for such a little piece


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

then the subframe 














all is very tight not very easy in fact
But all axles are going more or less good , thanks the rubber blocks














Had time to try the whole suspension before the night 














good night


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Good morning but today you get out !!!







































First time you breaze since a while


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

I had to ruin a pair of dump drive shaft to bolt the wheel














Stays a lot of room for the battery







I am planning on installing 4 divided packs of 25 x 4.0 V 
each will be around 25kg
2x on each side of the lower chassis







& 2x on the front


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

You need a skirt with this good weather





































& a bonnet D as well !





















I certainly will get rid of the big bulk on it while redoing the holes






HI Ben with his Nsr 125 that we have all redone


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)




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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

I've been working on my boats lately http://offshorev8.goodforum.net/t1117-jag-boat but still in E-progress

I'm going to use this battery 















100 of them will be 400V , they are given for 100 amps/H 

I will pack them tight x 25 with fiber sheet 10mm thick

Also bought the pedal box 







I won't use the clutch as you guessed well


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Furylectric said:


> I won't use the clutch as you guessed well


Regen !

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200psi-P...r-Brand-New-/251734710217?hash=item3a9c8ed7c9

How much did you pay for the Kokams ? and what AH are they


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Ho yes regen you're right !


http://www.proev.com/P1Batt.htm

I am using free battery for demos cars.................


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Great psi sender but I've picked a cable pedal clutch ....
Concerned about the $$ part , it was already 320€
I would need a simple linear potentiometer ?


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Furylectric said:


> Great psi sender but I've picked a cable pedal clutch ....
> Concerned about the $$ part , it was already 320€
> I would need a simple linear potentiometer ?


Yes Ive got one of those but the pedal will feel sloppy, too much travel.
Hydraulic is better, feels like a disc brake.

http://www.p3america.com/linear_motion_potentiometers_text.htm


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

Hum I should have bought the hydraulic clutch...
well I may adapt a little master cylinder because this idea having a strong regen on left foot is teasing me , could be usefull on traffic driving without using brakes !!
Thanks Rip


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

I'm concern also about the stability of the battery 
Heard that an explosion may occur if there is a shock or shortcut...
I will be sit on a pur bomb 
well a normal car has a gas tank full of extremly flamable product but it's very rare that it explodes
So much lithium around me !!!


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## Furylectric (Jan 24, 2016)

These cells can be continuously discharged at 500 amps and can safely deliver bursts of up to 800 amps. Even at 500 amp currents, these cells can deliver 86% of their rated capacity.

wooooo !!!!!!!!!!


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

Design it well, but don't be concerned about the safety of the battery. Gasoline cars don't blow up often, but electric vehicles blow up even less often. As long as you don't over-charge, keep good isolation and wire protection on both the B+ and B- sides of your high voltage pack, have a disconnect you can operate from the driver's seat, use a BMS for charging and an Ah meter to monitor your state of charge, you don't have much to worry about. I feel safer without 80 pounds of gasoline separated from me by 18 inches of space and a piece of 3mm thick fiberboard covered with vinyl- and with a flip-top lid! I was very glad to be rid of that bomb- the batteries don't scare me one bit.


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