# Metro transmission adapter plate



## jmath (Nov 19, 2013)

Sorry for the repeat if it's already out there somewhere: Does anyone have precise measurements for an adapter plate for an automatic transmission for the 93 Geo Metro (w/the 3 cylinder engine)?


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

wow, no, not the automatic.... It might be simpler/cheaper to get a rebuilt manual tranny and the standard adapter from CanEV.com ?

If you go automatic, how do you plan to tell it when to shift? will you be using a zilla or soliton controller to provide 'idle' at all times? Or do you have another way around that?


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## jmath (Nov 19, 2013)

You think the engine connection pattern is different for the automatic?

I looked up Zilla and Soliton... no, I am not planning to buy a $2000-$5000 motor controller!

I don't know that much about transmissions, but I think the physical changes in an automatic transmission are effected by solenoids. I considered making a "one-speed" setup, because my design parameters are pretty undemanding (I really only need ~30mph). But it seems like it shouldn't be that hard to build a basic transmission controller that tells it when to shift, maybe by making it quasi-manual (controlled by the driver).

The adapters sell for about $800. That seems high for a plate. I would like to commission someone to make one, but I don't know if I can make precise enough measurements.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

jmath said:


> You think the engine connection pattern is different for the automatic?


I dunno, I would expect so because the torque convertor etc in an automatic will be completely different depth than the clutch/flywheel.



jmath said:


> I looked up Zilla and Soliton... no, I am not planning to buy a $2000-$5000 motor controller!


you'll probably end up having to step up to a sophisticated controller ($2000) to handle the 'idle' and other user-settable parameters that set the big boys apart from the simple cheap old ones like the Curtis if you really intend to go with the automatic tranny. Hence my comment on lower cost overall build to switch to a rebuilt manual tranny, where you COULD use a$1000 Curtis if you wanted to.



jmath said:


> The adapters sell for about $800. That seems high for a plate. I would like to commission someone to make one, but I don't know if I can make precise enough measurements.


seems high... until you commission a machine shop to make the measurements and build a high precision adaptor plate and hub for the clutch/flywheel; then it starts looking more reasonable.


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## jmath (Nov 19, 2013)

I see your point. Actually I forget where but I found adapter plates for about $360. You seem to be suggesting it won't get any better than that, huh.

I'd like to replace it with a manual, but if I'm going to chuck the existing transmission anyway I am tempted to return to my original idea of no transmission at all, or maintaining the "shell" just for the differential and somehow linking directly to the output shaft. Is that crazy? It would save a lot of weight to remove it or most of it.

*I think I don't understand what "idle" means in the context of electric power.


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## mk4gti (May 6, 2011)

jmath said:


> *I think I don't understand what "idle" means in the context of electric power.


you need something to keep the a/t pump running, if not, the car won't move. get the m/t, much easier!


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

jmath said:


> I see your point. Actually I forget where but I found adapter plates for about $360. You seem to be suggesting it won't get any better than that, huh.


some places quote the plate separate from the hub. to get quality job on both is going to be right around $800-900.



jmath said:


> I'd like to replace it with a manual, but if I'm going to chuck the existing transmission anyway I am tempted to return to my original idea of no transmission at all,


you will be unhappy.... you need at least two speeds to obtain decent accel from stop and road-worthy top speed. As well as reverse without 'frankenstien' multiple reversing contactors....



jmath said:


> *I think I don't understand what "idle" means in the context of electric power.


you have to keep the motor turning, even at a stop, to maintain fluid pressure in an automatic tranny.... makes it less efficient, etc.


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## jmath (Nov 19, 2013)

Thanks! I took your advice and picked up a manual transmission. My question becomes valid: does anyone have the specifications for an adapter plate to match the 1993 metro 1.0L? I couldn't find one in the other threads.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

jmath said:


> Thanks! I took your advice and picked up a manual transmission. My question becomes valid: does anyone have the specifications for an adapter plate to match the 1993 metro 1.0L? I couldn't find one in the other threads.



i don't know if the transmission is the same/different in the 1.0L than the later 1.3L like was in my '97. I would suggest contacting Randy at CanEV.com and ask......


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

The 5 speed metro transmissions are interchangable from 89 to 2001. I have boxes of transmission adapter plates for metros if you need one. If you need one, message me.


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## Russco (Dec 23, 2008)

evmetro said:


> The 5 speed metro transmissions are interchangable from 89 to 2001. I have boxes of transmission adapter plates for metros if you need one. If you need one, message me.


There were, however, different transmission ratios and final drive ratios available. The '95 up Metro's with the 13 inch tires used a steeper final drive ratio than the earlier 12 inch tire Metros.

My Metro EV is automatic. Changing over to a manual is not so simple, different half shafts, calipers. Best to have a donor car and even then the mounting brackets factory welded on the frame are different.

Best to purchase the car with the equipment desired. 

And be sure to get a car than doesn't need a whole bunch of work.

Spend a little more; get a lot more.


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

The metros fall into two types, early from 89 to 94 and late from 95 to 2001. The transmissions are still interchangeable with all of those years. You can get nice new half shafts for about $100 for the pair. Russco, do you have a link to your metro? I gotta check it out!


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## Russco (Dec 23, 2008)

evmetro said:


> Russco, do you have a link to your metro? I gotta check it out!


I don't have a link to my Metro, but here's the URL for the 1994 test of my exact car performed when BAT had just converted it:

http://www1.eere.energy.gov/vehiclesandfuels/avta/pdfs/fsev/eva_results/batmetwt.pdf

I purchased this car about a year ago with just under 6000 miles. So, it's 1994 again, with the exception of the CALB batteries.

Back to the future.


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

Russco, it looks like you have a pretty cool ride! It looked like those specs were for lead... did you lithium upgrade get you any more range?


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## jmath (Nov 19, 2013)

Thanks for a comments--I missed the more recent ones (I wasn't checking regularly enough!)

I started making the adapter plate myself from a ~15" aluminum disc. I measured out all the holes with potentially 0.01mm precision, and I'd like to share my CAD file. Is there a place on these forums for that kind of thing?

The half-shafts are different? That's a shame. I didn't try them yet, I was still hoping I could use the old ones.


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## inventorx (Feb 20, 2017)

jmath said:


> I see your point. Actually I forget where but I found adapter plates for about $360. You seem to be suggesting it won't get any better than that, huh.
> 
> I'd like to replace it with a manual, but if I'm going to chuck the existing transmission anyway I am tempted to return to my original idea of no transmission at all, or maintaining the "shell" just for the differential and somehow linking directly to the output shaft. Is that crazy? It would save a lot of weight to remove it or most of it.
> 
> *I think I don't understand what "idle" means in the context of electric power.


I wouldn't go through all the extra work of trying to directly link to the output shaft. It is quite simple to connect the electric motor to the transmission. I agree with you that adapter plates are really expensive. I have included a link where you can download the PDF spec-sheet on the adapter plate. Take it to a machinist and have him drill you some holes in 1/4 - 1/2 steel plate. use Nuts to space the motor appropriately when attaching it to the steel plate. The Second PDF at the link indicates a "flywheel" adapter. it looks almost just like the timing gear at the end of the original crankshaft. As far as the use of an automatic or manual transmission and their interface with each other, the hole pattern should be the same as the automatics and manuals used similar engines.
The link to the aforementioned PDFs is http://canev.com/a5122.php
I would also check out my website and youtube channel at www.EclipseComputerSolutions.com


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## inventorx (Feb 20, 2017)

jmath said:


> Thanks for a comments--I missed the more recent ones (I wasn't checking regularly enough!)
> 
> I started making the adapter plate myself from a ~15" aluminum disc. I measured out all the holes with potentially 0.01mm precision, and I'd like to share my CAD file. Is there a place on these forums for that kind of thing?
> 
> The half-shafts are different? That's a shame. I didn't try them yet, I was still hoping I could use the old ones.


Could you please indicate all measurements including: Spacing, diameter of drilled holes ect.?

Many Thanks


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