# [EVDL] inertia switch



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

In an ICE the inertia switch is used to stop the fuel pump
and/or unlock all doors in case of a crash (large acceleration).

In an EV you can use the same to kill the "fuel" by running
the main contactor(s) coil power through this switch so that the
contactors drop out and your EV is safe outside the battery
box in case of a crash, no danger from electrocution when
sheet metal has ripped insulation from wires or the responders
need to cut through the vehicle to rescue trapped occupants.

Hope this clarifies,

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP: +31877841130
Tel: +1 408 383 7626 Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of J Bills
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 2:32 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: [EVDL] inertia switch

my EV is down for a battery swap and I'm taking the chance to change a
couple of things design-wise. adding some things it was missing from
the previous owner's base design - circuit breakers, fuses in the right
places, etc.

came across these:
http://store.kta-ev.com/Circuit_Breakers_Fuses_Safety_Switches/Inertia_S
witch.aspx

just curious if anyone has any opinions on them?

I have to say, I don't quite understand how it would work, would it just
act as a trigger for a breaker or ?

I assume that this would be helpful, because a breaker + in line fuses +
double contactors and all that jazz just protects me from shorts and
runaways, ya? but in the event of an impact, the pack could still be
live and possibly exposed without necessarily shorting?

pardon my ignorance, but I've just never heard mention of any sort of
impact sensor before coming across this, but at first glance it seems
like a good thing!

does anyone know if this is standard issue in Leafs (leaves?), Teslas,
etc?
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> J Bills wrote:
> 
> > my EV is down for a battery swap and I'm taking the chance to change a
> > couple of things design-wise. adding some things it was missing
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

BTW, I have once set off the inertia switch in my
1983 Renault 9 when being hit sideways (at low speed) by 
another car, denting the passenger door and pushing
the front wheels out of alignment.
I did not notice the red button that had appeared 
under the steering column, below the dash, but found
it annoying that the automatic door locks were no
longer working, I suspected that the dent in the
passenger door caused a short until I was reading
through the user manual of the car and found the
paragraph about the automatic door unlock in case of
a collision. (That model did not disable the fuel
pump, it was probably still a mechanical pump on the
engine instead of electrical inside the tank)
After pushing the button back, flush with the panel
under the steering column, all door locks worked again.

I think that the EV inertia switch should work as
directly as possible on disabling the pack voltage.
If you use it as an input to the logic of the
controller then it may not disable the pack if the
controller fails (though the simultaneous failure of
controller and crashing may not be likely).
My preference would be to install the inertia switch
on the controller *output* that enables the main
contactor(s) or simply have the aux power supply
of the controller go through this switch.
Any G forces over the specified limit will disable
the pack and that is what you want in such a case.
Since it is resettable, there is no problem as long 
as you can easily access it in case the G force did
not disable the car, only the inertia switch did.

Take note of the position and orientation of the
switch in the vehicle where it came from or in the
documentation that must be supplied with the unit
so you can mount it properly or it might not work
as specified. Most switches are not triggered by
Z axis (vertical) bumps, only by X and Y (forward
and sideways) unless you install it incorrectly...

It may not be so important *where* you mount it,
for example it does not matter if it is under the
back seat or under the dash, but you should take
care of mounting on a solid surface of the car and
in the same orientation.

Success,

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP: +31877841130
Tel: +1 408 383 7626 Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Martin WINLOW
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 3:10 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] inertia switch




> J Bills wrote:
> 
> > my EV is down for a battery swap and I'm taking the chance to change a
> 
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I have one on my EV but disconnected it after it has tripped several times
due to bad roads. I've heard mistrips can be avoided/reduced by placing it
near the vehicle's center of mass, away from the axles that are bouncing
around.

--
View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/inertia-switch-tp3659026p3659437.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

cool - thank you all. Sounds logical - I'm going to add one.

Anyone have any opinion on this one that KTA sells specifically? or another
brand you've had success with that has tripped reliably or is otherwise
adjustable?



> Lee Hart <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > On 7/11/2011 4:02 AM, J Bills wrote:
> > >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I use one, and drive on rough roads daily and I haven't yet set it off. Mine is connected to my negative contactor (I have two -- one for negative controlled by key-on and another controlled by the controller), so if it goes off it turns off power for the contactor and thus the controller/motor.

corbin



> J Bills wrote:
> 
> > my EV is down for a battery swap and I'm taking the chance to change a
> > couple of things design-wise. adding some things it was missing from the
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Cor van de Water wrote:
> 
> > Take note of the position and orientation of the
> > switch in the vehicle where it came from or in the
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I used the one from EvolveElectrics:

http://evolveelectrics.com/Miscellaneous%20Components.html

Looks the same as the KTA one.

corbin



> J Bills wrote:
> 
> > cool - thank you all. Sounds logical - I'm going to add one.
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 12:59 PM, Roger Stockton <[email protected]> wr=
ote:
>> Take note of the position and orientation of the
> Where you mount it is indeed also important. Inertia sensors (like air=
bag sensors) will be designed to trip at a specific G-force, and the trip

The common Ford fuel pump switches need to be mounted with the reset
button facing up. They are equally sensitive in both X and Y
directions. They are less sensitive to Z motion, though they will
trip if the vehicle rolls or inverts.

The sensor is just a steel ball resting on a magnet. The magnet sits
at the bottom of a upwards facing cone. At the topside of the cone is
a release switch. The sensor must receive a sharp shot (to break the
ball free of the magnet, and enough (de)acceleration to run the ball
up the cone hard enough to trip the release. They are not prone to
false trips, it takes a solid, sharp, impact.

The sensors are not precision devices, and where they are located in
the car is not critical (as it is with an airbag sensor). Place them
somewhere where they are not likely to be damaged in a crash, or
accidentally impacted by the occupants (lot of false trips on Ranger
pickups where the sensor was above the passenger's feet) and are
convenient to reset if they are tripped.

-- =

Mark Farver
REVOLT Custom Electric Vehicles
Austin, TX
Parts store now open: http://www.revoltevc.com/

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*[EVDL] Inertia switch*

I do not normally contribute to the EV Digest, but Electric Vehicles of 
America (EVA) was probably the first to sell the inertia switch almost 20 
years ago. We were founded in 1988.

Our design for on-road EVs uses two contactors; one on each side of the 
battery pack. The primary contactor (negative side of the battery pack) 
closes with the ignition; the secondary contactor (positive side of the battery 
pack) closes with the microswitch on the PB-6 potbox. To even out wear, 
the contactors should be alternated annually.

The logic is that if someone thinks they may be in an accident, their 
natural instinct is to take their foot off the accelerator. This de-energizes 
the controller as the secondary contactor opens. Now there is the 
potential in an acident that the individual's foot could get jammed against the 
accelerator. That dictated the need for the Inertia switch. Upon impact, it 
removes the 12V power from both contactors and the contactors open. This 
removes the power from the controller. We locate the inertia switch on the 
inner fender (passenger side).

Naturally, if the battery pack shorts to the frame, the fuse(s) should 
blow. But beware. Some fuses take three times (3X) their rated current to 
blow. So a 400 amp fuse may require 1200 amps to blow. An 800 amp fuse may 
never blow. Talk with the supplier. 

The inertia switch is part of the EV safety that we have promoted for 23 
years. For more details, you can read "Safety First" in our tech papers 
_http://www.evamerica.com/02evamericatechpapersfall20061.pdf_ 
(http://www.evamerica.com/02evamericatechpapersfall20061.pdf) 

I hope this encourages EV owners to consider safety because EVs have 
accidents.

Bob Batson
Electric Vehicles of America, Inc.
Wolfeboro, NH 03894
_www.EVAmerica.com_ (http://www.ev-america.com/) 

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] Inertia switch*



> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Upon impact, it removes the 12V power from both contactors and the con=
> tactors open.
> 
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] Inertia switch*

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] Inertia switch*

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] Inertia switch*

thanks - found what you were trying to link to -
http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/InertiaSwitch.htm



> [email protected] <[email protected]>wrote:
> 
> > Trying the link again
> >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] Inertia switch*

Yep, that's what I was Trying to do.
I shouldn't have made it in frames but im no web designer.

Stub
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

J Bills <[email protected]> wrote:

thanks - found what you were trying to link to -
http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/InertiaSwitch.htm



> [email protected] <[email protected]>wrote:
> 
> > Trying the link again
> >
> ...


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