# AC Conversion



## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Hello,

I have been doing a lot of research and will start working on a AC conversion (will probably really start/finish by next Summer).

Starting with a Honda Civic 95 EX (2213 lbs Curb Weight)

Have been looking into either:
1. Solectria AC 42
2. Azure Dynamics/Solectria AC 55 (www.evcomponents.com)
3. HPG AC55 


However, have a few questions. 

1. Does any one have a link (pdf etc) to the Solectria AC 42 product info?
I am having an extremely hard time finding information on this product line ( i could easily find information on the AC24,AC55 etc). I did find a few documents using the AC42 but no direct documents like say: http://www.azuredynamics.com/products/force-drive/documents/AC55_DMOC445ProductSheet.pdf

2. Which of the above system would be the best one?
Ideally what i would like to do is eventually move the AC system to a 
better looking car (Mitsubishi Lancer 6th+ Generation, curb weight range:
2,910-3,527 lbs or Subaru Impreza 05-07 Curb Weight range: 3085-3,263llbs)


All in all, i might just leave the Civic as is and do a 2nd conversion on another car.

Any input (opinions, suggestions etc are greatly welcomed/appreciated).

Thank you!


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Well i have e-mailed www.azuredynamics.com/ requesting for information regarding the AC 42 model and the person who replied said they might have an old data sheet but the said person on/going vacation.

So should hopefully have something by next week.


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Well landed on a Solectria AC 42 (with direct drive gearbox).

Should have it in a few weeks, not really rushing into anything (as far as building goes).

Any one know of a quick way to get at least 144 volts DC without buying batteries (ie plug a rectifier to say 2 house hold 115/120 AC volts outlet)?

Would like to make sure it works 100% etc.

Thanks


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Received the PDF for the AC42 from www.azuredynamics.com
Checking to see if they have the documentation for the UMOC440TF controller as well.

Great company!


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## Guest (Sep 9, 2009)

Kinda jumped in with both feet before any one here had a chance to respond. This is not the best way to go but since you have we will help with the conversion. I am not sure how to check the motor for an AC without batteries. DC motors are usually checked with just 12 volts directly. Controllers are usually checked with the minimal power requirement with batteries. You should have let the seller prove that the motor and controller works and show you in person before forking over money. Now it is in your ball park. Someone here should be able to help for testing without batteries. 

Pete


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Hello Pete,

Thank you very much for your input.
Correct on everything!

Pretty sure i could find a rectifier to at least try to get close to the 160VDC minimal operational voltage, or like 1 rectifier and 2-3 12 volt batteries.

Thanks


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Ok, finally got my AC42+AT1200 (motor reduction) and UMOC445TF.
Any one knows where i could get the Wiring Interface Kit for controller?

I tried www.electroauto.com which has it for the DMOC445 but does not carry it for the UMOC445TF. I previously tried www.azuredynamics.com but they don't have/sell them anymore (i will check again).

Or if you have any other ideas, please let me know.

Thank you.


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## 80N541 (Jan 11, 2009)

they sell motor+controller without wiring harness?


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Well i do have the wires that go from the motor to the controller (encoder etc ), but not the the ones for the acceleration pedal and forward/reverse (etc :-( ).


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## 80N541 (Jan 11, 2009)

ha!, that's better
you can found them in every evshop


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

hehe, i would love for it to be that easy :-D

They are proprietary cables/pins from Solectria/AzureDynamics.
I will list the exact type of cables and number of pins on my next post.

Thanks


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Silly me, I actually have the newer controller which is the DMOC445 which http://www.electroauto.com/ does have the complete wiring interface kit (although a bit pricey).

I was also speaking to www.evcomponents.com and apparently they have fabricated the one for the UMOC445, waiting for a reply to see if they have it for the DMOC445.


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Not much progress yet (don't have the dedicated time and money to continue), so just doing lots and lots of research etc.

On another note, i have two cars about to be sent to the junk yard and was wondering if ya could suggest things to take out before i do. I already took out the alternator from the 1st car and about to take out from the 2nd (apparently actually has 2).

The two cars/trucks are:
mercedes 300 sel (~ 1990 model)
chevrolet blazer k5 (2nd generation).

Thanks


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

By any chance, does any one know "Travis Travelstead" from evcomponents handle here (or even if he has one)? Or if you are reading this, please contact me.

We were in contact via e-mail (before) but not sure if i should contact you in your evcomponents e-mail.

Thank you.


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Finally in contact with Travis.
Removed the engine/transmission from the Civic about 2 weekends ago.
Will try adding pics soon.

Now my battery question. Since this is my 1st conversion, will be sticking to Lead for
the 1st round and will then upgrade to Lithium.

Is it better to get a bit bigger deep cycle batteries (for ~156 volts) or just use regular (small) car batteries for higher voltage (say for 300-336v)?

As the civic originally used size group 51:








which are pretty small and i could fit more!

Generic information for size group battery (from interstate);
Product ID:	MT-51R
Amps:	625
Cranking Amps:	625
Cold Cranking Amps:	500
Voltage:	12
Termination:	A
Weight:	27.9
Width:	5.13
Length:	9.38
Height:	8.88

Thank you very much!

Edit: I know from a performance view, higher voltage will be better for my AC system but more interested in distance. My targeted distance is not far; ~15.4 miles round trip, which i know the higher voltage should be able to do but still trying to balance best solution.


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## Guest (Jun 17, 2010)

Auto batteries are a NO GO for your conversion. You need batteries for deep cycle and don't go with the marine deep cycle either. You need the real deal They will be heavy but you can go with 12 deep cycle to help in the voltage department. You won't need as many for high voltage. What are you expecting for distance?


Pete


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

gottdi said:


> Auto batteries are a NO GO for your conversion. You need batteries for deep cycle and don't go with the marine deep cycle either. You need the real deal They will be heavy but you can go with 12 deep cycle to help in the voltage department. You won't need as many for high voltage. What are you expecting for distance?
> 
> 
> Pete


I would be ok with 20 mile range but of course the more the better if it doesn't make much of a difference. I am not expecting for either the Deep Cycle ones or regular ones to last a long time. Is just to get the car moving/on the road. I will eventually opt for Lithium etc.

I will NOT use "true" deep cycle ones, as with a bit more $$ i could go the lithium way. Will use Wall-mart ones (regular ones or marine ones etc).

Thanks


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## Guest (Jun 18, 2010)

Check out the Sam's Club Deep cycle Golf Cart batteries. The prices are very good and the quality is fine. Auto batteries will die real fast and that would be expensive and wasteful. At least the deep cycle ones will live a better life. When I purchased mine they were 68 bucks each plus core for the 6 volt GC2 batteries. Energizers come in 6 or 8 volt and the 8 volts are the better way to go if you need 120 or more volts and you have a smallish car and limited space for batteries. 96 volts of 6 volt batteries makes for a heavy car. An extra 1020 lbs of batteries or so. In a little VW Ghia it is a lot of weight but really moves the car just fine. 

Pete 

I too plan on lithium. Still don't have quite enough and I am a bit hesitant to purchase now from unknown sources. Our one source has screwed it up for all the rest of the group and any future groups. It really sucks. 

Pete


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Thanks for the replies Pete!

Don't have Sams club around here (NYC) but do have Walmart/BJs near by.
Will probably end up with the Maxx 29 from Walmart or hold off a bit and start
with Lithium.

Thanks


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## Guest (Jun 18, 2010)

How about a Cosco? If not I'd suggest you start with Lithium. 

Pete


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Ah yes, there is a Costco a bit further but don't have membership to that one (because of greater distance).

Same here wouldn't want to start with Lithium either. I'll try to gather more information etc.

Thanks!


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Seems Azure Dynamics has changed the wiring interface kit from potbox/pedal control to CAN control. Apparently this made the price drop considerably, however, not sure yet if it would mean more work/parts in the long run (and pricier).

Currently gathering all the information I can to see how it would be all connected using CAN. Apparently one connects the CAN to the VCU (vehicle control unit) but not sure yet if this is something that my Honda already has (i know there's an ECU) or something extra that i will need to get/connect.

If anyone has any experience/links regarding the DMOC445/CAN (ie an actual build using it), please let me know.

Thank you.


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## wenowhavepower (Dec 24, 2008)

Well looks like i'll have to stick to the old wiring interface kit or get a car which is CAN bus compatible (mostly everything after 2006/2008)

Still doing more research.


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## Timhawk33 (Feb 23, 2012)

Hey I'm working on a project that uses the CAN controlled version of the DMOC445. I was curious if you have figured out or already know what exactly it takes to make it work properly.

I'm also having difficulty finding someone who has done a build that controls the DMOC via CAN.


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## salubrious (Apr 4, 2012)

Have you had success using the older pedal control with the DMOC?

I have a project that is nearly finished. Only thing is, the controller seems dead in the water. I have verified that there are voltages, that its wired correctly but there is no life of any kind- and won't talk to my terminal program either; the program reports that the port is 'locked' whenever its connected.


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