# Cooling Examples



## simey_binker (May 13, 2009)

I personally employ one of these:










she's small enough to fit in the engine bay...

in all seriousness, I'm not familiar with the EXACT dimensions of the ADC motor; but you could get really creative and mount some fins/fan blades on the shaft that comes out the backside of the motor. with a proper casing, the rotating fins would force the air OUT, while fresh air would be drawn into the casing from the opposite end. several ways of designing it; think about how dust-busters work.

Sim


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## neanderthal (Jul 24, 2008)

I have been thinking about using something like this, but modified for the adc motor. I have the same motor as you. This one is for a warp9.


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## neanderthal (Jul 24, 2008)

then just find a nice blower and some ducting, and you are done surplus center's website has good prices on blowers that would work


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

http://www.evsource.com/tls_motor_accessories.php

Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in the success or failure of EVSource.


neanderthal said:


> then just find a nice blower and some ducting, and you are done surplus center's website has good prices on blowers that would work


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## esoneson (Sep 1, 2008)

simey_binker said:


> in all seriousness, I'm not familiar with the EXACT dimensions of the ADC motor; but you could get really creative and mount some fins/fan blades on the shaft that comes out the backside of the motor. with a proper casing, the rotating fins would force the air OUT, while fresh air would be drawn into the casing from the opposite end. several ways of designing it; think about how dust-busters work.
> 
> Sim


Nothing wrong with adding more fan (air moving) capability to the shaft of the motor. However, when the motor is pulling high amps at low speeds (going up hills or acceleration from stop) you need MORE cooling when the motor rpms are low. Having the cooling capability independent of the rpm of the motor would probably be more advantageous in these circumstances. I.e. an additional electric motor running the fan (for air cooling) or pump (for liquid cooling).

Eric


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

esoneson said:


> Nothing wrong with adding more fan (air moving) capability to the shaft of the motor. However, when the motor is pulling high amps at low speeds (going up hills or acceleration from stop) you need MORE cooling when the motor rpms are low. Having the cooling capability independent of the rpm of the motor would probably be more advantageous in these circumstances. I.e. an additional electric motor running the fan (for air cooling) or pump (for liquid cooling).
> 
> Eric


I was thinking of doing a ram air solution, but then your point applies there too. Now I'm dependant on vehicle speed for better cooling.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

DavidDymaxion said:


> http://www.evsource.com/tls_motor_accessories.php
> 
> Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in the success or failure of EVSource.


450$ for a fan and a tube 

no one said it was DIYC, (Cheaply)


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## RKM (Jun 9, 2008)

Brian,

I'm using a 5 speed cabin blower with an air filter connected to the inlet to force feed the motor with clean air. The cover band has a pair of 1.5" OD tubes to connect the hoses from the modified blower. This is a low cost solution for me ($20 for the blower). The view is from the bottom side of the car. I'll post painted photos soon.

Rob


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

RKM said:


> Brian,
> 
> I'm using a 5 speed cabin blower with an air filter connected to the inlet to force feed the motor with clean air. The cover band has a pair of 1.5" OD tubes to connect the hoses from the modified blower. This is a low cost solution for me ($20 for the blower). The view is from the bottom side of the car. I'll post painted photos soon.
> 
> Rob


I like your setup and saw it a few weeks back when you posted. Originally I was thinking doing the same but with ram air only. Now I'm thinking the blower is a must as well for low speed full throttle cooling. 

Any idea the amp draw, and CFM of that blower?


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

RKM - I like your setup... probably because I'm going to rig up something similar for our dyno : A blower feeding a plenum that feeds 4 flexible hoses aimed at each brush holder (with a band, of course).

bblocher, et al.: you probably need a blower that delivers 150 cfm, at least. That size blower will typically draw somewhere between 4A and 8A at 12VDC, depending on the style of the impeller (some are optimized for low head pressure (less amps) and others for high CFM and head (higher amps)).

West Marine, etc., will likely have such blowers in stock (although, as you might imagine, anything for boats is automatically more expensive - not as expensive as that evsource kit, though!).

Hmmm.. I just hopped over to West Marine and they have a bunch of inline blowers that are very reasonably price.... Check out, for example:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...ue&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=12&classNum=12111


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## DaveAK (Jun 28, 2009)

I don't understand the $450 kit. If you price everything individually it comes to $200. Still too much, but half the kit price.


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## bblocher (Jul 30, 2008)

Tesseract said:


> RKM - I like your setup... probably because I'm going to rig up something similar for our dyno : A blower feeding a plenum that feeds 4 flexible hoses aimed at each brush holder (with a band, of course).
> 
> bblocher, et al.: you probably need a blower that delivers 150 cfm, at least. That size blower will typically draw somewhere between 4A and 8A at 12VDC, depending on the style of the impeller (some are optimized for low head pressure (less amps) and others for high CFM and head (higher amps)).
> 
> ...


Funny, I was looking at that exact ducted fan.

I didn't think about aiming at each brush holder, but that makes sense. I was just going to go in with one large tube. But, again, that's the whole reason I started this thread.


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## RKM (Jun 9, 2008)

Brian,

Sorry, I can't quantify amp load or CFM. There is no amperage rating on the blower motor. I haven't checked the fuse panel to see what amperage fuse is used. I like being able to adjust the fan output if needed. I'm going to start at the second lowest setting. I suspect that will be more than adequate while keeping amp draw low. I can switch terminals and feed more air if needed. I'd speculate that the blower will be drawing <5A.

Tesseract,

The two ports on my cover band are over the lower pair of brush holders. I don't have the room for a second set on top. I think it would be overkill for my application. I won't be racing or testing limits (most of the time!). I believe I have at least twice the port area of the optional WarP 9 factory cover band.

My primary concern is to cool with clean air.

Rob


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## tomofreno (Mar 3, 2009)

I recently purchased one of these Attwood blowers for about $23.00 shipped (around $16.00 for the blower) from Home Depot's on line store. The local marine store had them for $38.00.

Tom


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## tomofreno (Mar 3, 2009)

I bought the Attwood blower to get a bit of cooling of battery boxes. Haven't worried about motor cooling since it's not running yet. You can get 4.7" axial fans at Wholesale Fans that are 220 CFM for about $20.00. How 'bout mounting one of these on standoffs at the back end of the motor on axis to blow into the air intake opening? I just bought a couple 151 cfm 4.7" axial fans at Electronic Surplus for $7.50 ea plus shipping. Plan to use one to cool the controller ($15.00 minimum order). 

Tom


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

tomofreno said:


> ... You can get 4.7" axial fans at Wholesale Fans that are 220 CFM for about $20.00.


Sounds real good - how about a link?




tomofreno said:


> How 'bout mounting one of these on standoffs at the back end of the motor on axis to blow into the air intake opening? I just bought a couple 151 cfm 4.7" axial fans at Electronic Surplus for $7.50 ea plus shipping. ...


That'll help keep the brushes cool, true, but it won't do much for the rest of the motor. Hose to a cover band with ports is really the best method. If there are only 2 ports, arrange them opposite each other and in between each pair of brush assemblies, that way air will bounce off the commutator and cool each brush assembly off more or less equally. Actually, I like that idea more than 4 hoses and ports... hmm.


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## tomofreno (Mar 3, 2009)

Link for wholesale fans, see item 2:
http://www.fanwholesale.com/120mm-fans-c-9.html

I guess the DC motors are a bit different. My motor (AC50) only has openings at the motor end for air intake and at front circumference for outlet. No other openings. Case is welded steel tube. Since there was a $15.00 minimum, I ordered two fans, so may as well mount one on the end of the motor since I have room. The other is for the controller.

Tom


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