# 6.7" GE motors



## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Dink said:


> I was wondering how many volts/amps can be semi safely thrown at these motors? At 36 volts it's rated 10hp/1350rpm/320amps--3.5hp/2900rpm/95amps. Will it handle 72 volts 600amps for short duration such as 1/8th mile drag racing?


Hi Dink,

I see nobody else has responded. So I will. Answer is maybe.

GE makes a variety of models of 6.7 inch motors. If this is the low end golf cart model, it probably won't take too many runs at 600A, 72V before it zorches. Maybe not even the 10 to 15 seconds needed to make the first run.

If it is a sturdier forklift 6.7 with double wide brushes, then you have a better chance. You may need to advance the brushes. 

It is possible to push this size motor way beyond the nameplate. Example is KillaCycle. Bill uses two 6.7's. ADC brand, I think. Modified. But pushed to 2 or 3 times what you're talkin' about. Even higher. But then he has them rebuilt often.

I'd say go for it. Maybe start at 48V and then to 72. Don't blame me if you damage a motor, or two. Hey, that's racing. Break things, fix them better and go faster 

major


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

I have one, with slightly lower ratings though. I think mine is rated for 2.5hp, at 2700 rpm, 71 amps. It has a single, somewhat, narrow row of brushes. Sturdy little motor though, and I only paid $70 + shipping; so I'm not complaining. I plan to run it at 72 volts (with advanced brushes) but not for any serious performance - just a little cruiser (motorcycle).

I have considered finding another one to do the series/parallel switch thing but they're usually pretty expensive on Ebay! I saw an identical motor once, for a little over $500!

I did some research before buying mine and found out that the specific model I have was used in an aircraft transporter. The little asphalt "tugboats" that pull the planes around. I didn't bookmark the site though and can't remember how I found it.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

This is my first attempt at an EV. The motors are from Taylor-Dunn B2-48's, I have 2 of them with 36v-400amp controllers,and a rear axle. Looking to hook them together,running direct drive to the rear axle. Using a seperate controller and 36v battery pack for each motor. Jumping to 72v as funds allow controller purchase/purchases. That is another topic. 1 or 2 controllers, and series or parallel wiring.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

The brochure on the Taylor Dunn site specifies SepEx motors. Is that what you have? I have a series wound 6.7" motor, though I do have an 11" SepEx. The biggest issue with SepEx is mating a controller to it, if you don't have a field map or the original controller (which is sounds like you have).

Another is with dual motored drag racing applications you can do a series/parallel switch giving a sort of electronic gear shift. Not sure that's possible with SepEx, and what you would do for a controller is it is.

Do you have any pics of your motors? Specifically of the brush area. Seeing what size brushes and comm you have is the best way to determine how much they can take. Also, if it doesn't specify on the label, pictures of the coils and/or connections inside the motor, can help determine whether they're series or SepEx.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

They are series wound.(I can't figure out how to upload pictures.) If you go to evparts.com, part # MT1823 looks like it, or I can send them regular e-mail


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

You have a PM.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

No they're series wound motors. How do I upload pictures? It keeps asking for a url something.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Dink said:


> No they're series wound motors. How do I upload pictures? It keeps asking for a url something.


I always click on the "quote" box at bottom right of the post to reply. Then on the reply screen, upper middle is a paper clip icon for attachments. Then browse to the jpeg file on your computer and attach.

I never can figure out how to embed pictures in the text of a post. There really should be better instructions for us computer dummies on how to use this format.

major


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Dink said:


> No they're series wound motors. How do I upload pictures? It keeps asking for a url something.


You have to have them already hosted on the internet. If you have a picuture sharing account somewhere, you can get it from there. If not, and you need someone to help you get them on here, I sent you a Private Message (PM) with my email address. Look in the upper right hand corner of this screen by your name and click on "Private Messages".

Edited in response to major's post. I didn't know you could upload to this site directly. My pics show up in the text because I hotlink them from my site. Not sure how to do that with the uploading process.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

toddshotrods said:


> Edited in response to major's post. I didn't know you could upload to this site directly. My pics show up in the text because I hotlink them from my site. Not sure how to do that with the uploading process.


Like this example.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

major said:


> ...I never can figure out how to embed pictures in the text of a post. There really should be better instructions for us computer dummies on how to use this format.
> 
> major


Okay, I have a round-about way for you.  When you upload the pictures, and while you are still in the manage attachments window, right-click on the attachment, click properties, and copy the address, come back to the reply to thread window, click the insert image button (yellow box with a mountain in it, under and to the right of the paper clip), paste the address in that pop-up window, click "OK".

You will probably get a warning the first time you click the insert image icon. Click the yellow bar that pops up and select temporarily allow..., then click the insert image icon again. You only have to do that once in a reply, then you can post up to ten images (counting emoticons).

Simple 

OOPS! I didn't actually mean to post that. I was using it to figure out how to get the images in the post, like this:









That is my 6.7" GE anyway.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

major said:


> Like this example.


Got it. Now go back and edit your post and get the picture in the actual post. Right-click on the picture itself, select properties, copy the address, and use the insert image button...

Don't forget to explain what motor and assembly is that you posted.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Posting these for Dink:



> Here are 2 that I have now. Will take more and figure how to do it on site. Between yourself and Major, I think I can do it.





















I used the paper clip, uploaded them, copied the addresses, posted in the reply using "insert image" button, and "removed" the images in the manage attachments window (then closed it), before clicking submit, to see if I can prevent the little thumbnails - let's see if it works...


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

toddshotrods said:


> Posting these for Dink:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Didn't work that I can see  I'll give it a try later. And that is an EV1 motor by GM.  

major


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

major said:


> Didn't work that I can see  I'll give it a try later. And that is an EV1 motor by GM.
> 
> major


You'll get it. EV1 motor - interesting.

The drive system really caught my eye because I shared with Woody my plans to do something similar with one of my small motors and a Toyota diff. I plan to use an open belt drive though, so I can change ratios like a quick change - and so it's clean and quiet.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

toddshotrods said:


> You'll get it. EV1 motor - interesting.
> 
> The drive system really caught my eye because I shared with Woody my plans to do something similar with one of my small motors and a Toyota diff. I plan to use an open belt drive though, so I can change ratios like a quick change - and so it's clean and quiet.


 What is an EV1 motor? Why interesting? Is it a good starting core for race type set-up? I liked the rear motor/diff. assembly. 9" ford w/disc brakes and a seperate parking brake. Thought about using a timing belt as you, but will have to see. I have the wet chain already, and have concerns of possible belt walk and strength without having to use my 6-71 blower drive set.(race a 65 Pontiac) So I have the set up in my head for motor power/drive set-up. Can those motors be altered to perform under high volts and amps? Correct me if I'm wrong, dc volts/amps work like water through a hose, the volts being psi, and amps being gph, and watt hrs is mpg? So then to increase performance in an EV, that higher volts gives a possible higher rpm, and amps give torque.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Dink said:


> What is an EV1 motor? Why interesting? Is it a good starting core for race type set-up? I liked the rear motor/diff. assembly. 9" ford w/disc brakes and a seperate parking brake. Thought about using a timing belt as you, but will have to see. I have the wet chain already, and have concerns of possible belt walk and strength without having to use my 6-71 blower drive set.(race a 65 Pontiac) So I have the set up in my head for motor power/drive set-up. Can those motors be altered to perform under high volts and amps? Correct me if I'm wrong, dc volts/amps work like water through a hose, the volts being psi, and amps being gph, and watt hrs is mpg? So then to increase performance in an EV, that higher volts gives a possible higher rpm, and amps give torque.


Your thinking "water through a hose" seems to be right. For comparison, most of the fast street cars are running around 300 volts (some getting clos eto 400 now), and around 2000 amps. They've been in the low 11s, and I expect to see 10-second passes this year. That's what is takes to push a 2500-3500lb vehicle down the quarter-mile.

The big question is what are you putting the motors in? How big of a vehicle and how heavy is it?

Also, pics of the brush area would go a long way in determining how much your motors can take. Major or Jim can tell you more about the pros and cons of an EV1 motor.

Edit = I forgot to mention: for racing, the chain is probably a stronger setup. I was building a little cruiser that wouldn't see any serious performance usage (single 6.7" motor, very lightweight). You would need a heck of a belt to stand up to instant-on electric motor torque in a racing environment.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Dink said:


> What is an EV1 motor? Why interesting? Is it a good starting core for race type set-up? I liked the rear motor/diff. assembly. 9" ford w/disc brakes and a seperate parking brake. Thought about using a timing belt as you, but will have to see. I have the wet chain already, and have concerns of possible belt walk and strength without having to use my 6-71 blower drive set.(race a 65 Pontiac) So I have the set up in my head for motor power/drive set-up. Can those motors be altered to perform under high volts and amps? Correct me if I'm wrong, dc volts/amps work like water through a hose, the volts being psi, and amps being gph, and watt hrs is mpg? So then to increase performance in an EV, that higher volts gives a possible higher rpm, and amps give torque.


Hi Dink,

I just grabbed the first decent picture I could find for an example post. It just happened to be the EV1 motor which I had lifted from some web site long ago and saved on my computer at work.

That motor is an induction motor made by Delphi (GM at that time) back in the 1990's for the EV1 electric car. Didn't you ever see the movie "Who killed the electric car"? Maybe look it up  GM pulled all the EV1s in and crushed them. Very few components escaped. So, motors like this are basically unobtainium.

And while it is possible to design electric motors for differing characteristics relating to voltage, current, speed and torque, it is difficult to alter these relationships by physical modification of the machine once it has been built. Usually not worth the money, or poor results.

major


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

major said:


> Hi Dink,
> 
> I just grabbed the first decent picture I could find for an example post. It just happened to be the EV1 motor which I had lifted from some web site long ago and saved on my computer at work...major


Ohhhh! The confusion is probably my fault! I asked Major what the motor was in the picture he posted. I asked in the middle of talking about your application Dink, and he responded the same way! 

Major I think we both though you meant Dink's motor was an EV1 motor! 




major said:


> ...while it is possible to design electric motors for differing characteristics relating to voltage, current, speed and torque, it is difficult to alter these relationships by physical modification of the machine once it has been built. Usually not worth the money, or poor results.
> 
> major


So the success the EV drag racers have had with forklift motors, and the success of forklift motors in EVs in general, is because the requirements are similar enough? If so, that would make sense that the companies who sell motors for EVs all pretty much sell forklift motors.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

toddshotrods said:


> Your thinking "water through a hose" seems to be right. For comparison, most of the fast street cars are running around 300 volts (some getting clos eto 400 now), and around 2000 amps. They've been in the low 11s, and I expect to see 10-second passes this year. That's what is takes to push a 2500-3500lb vehicle down the quarter-mile.
> 
> The big question is what are you putting the motors in? How big of a vehicle and how heavy is it?
> 
> ...


My first auto shop teacher explained dc to me that way, to give a physical repersentation of something you don't see. I'd love to do what White Zombie, and Suck Amps postal van are doing up here in the northwest. But that is what my big block is for. That may change in time though. Looking for the conversion vehicle/victim at this time. Cheap, the lighter the better and low drag I hope. Want to stay under 2000lbs. Thinking Honda civic, Geo metro,Toyota tercel, etc. Would realy like something rear wheel drive, but that's hard to get these days. See if i can play with the import tuners till the 1/8 mile. (They don't seem to want to play with the Pontiac.) I'll get the brush info. and better pictures.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Dink said:


> My first auto shop teacher explained dc to me that way, to give a physical repersentation of something you don't see. I'd love to do what White Zombie, and Suck Amps postal van are doing up here in the northwest. But that is what my big block is for. That may change in time though. Looking for the conversion vehicle/victim at this time. Cheap, the lighter the better and low drag I hope. Want to stay under 2000lbs. Thinking Honda civic, Geo metro,Toyota tercel, etc. Would realy like something rear wheel drive, but that's hard to get these days. See if i can play with the import tuners till the 1/8 mile. (They don't seem to want to play with the Pontiac.) I'll get the brush info. and better pictures.


Your first issue is going to be weight. I had assumed since you were using the smaller motors, and relatively low voltage/current goals, that you were looking for something smaller and lighter than a full-bodied car. 72 volts and 600 amps isn't going to move even 1500lbs very quickly.  You might snap off the line okay, and then just putt to the 330ft mark.

Killacycle uses dual 6.7" motors but that's a 700-800lb package, and running massive voltage and current. Granted he's also running in the high 7s, but...

What kind of eighth-mile performance are you looking for? Maybe you should work backwards here. A look at the brush/comm setup will allow Major or Jim to take an educated guess at how much abuse the motors can take. Then working that information with your performance goals in a simple drag race calculator would reveal what type of vehicle you can use.

Off the cuff, I would guess something like an altered-style Topolino or T-bucket would put you in the right weight range.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

toddshotrods said:


> So the success the EV drag racers have had with forklift motors, and the success of forklift motors in EVs in general, is because the requirements are similar enough?


Well, I suspect it is more the case of the EV drag guys making do with what they can get  And fashioning their system around pushing those motors to the limit, and beyond. I like to call it machine abuse  



> If so, that would make sense that the companies who sell motors for EVs all pretty much sell forklift motors.


At least on the DC side of things. Your big guys, like GE don't seem the least bit interested in the EV market. Smaller motor companies like ADC did a small effort (in that it didn't cost them much to alter a fork motor and sell it for an EV). Warfield was a rebuilder of motors and did fork motor rebuilds. I think they did get into manufacturer of them. And also took those fork designs to the EV market as EV motors. But again using existing tooling.

In all these years, I am unaware of a clean sheet DC motor design intended for an EV. But the use of the fork motor has been fairly successful, I'd say. I guess when you get down to the electromagnetic interaction in the air gap, the requirements are pretty much the same  Flux, current and torque, you know?

major


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

major said:


> Well, I suspect it is more the case of the EV drag guys making do with what they can get  And fashioning their system around pushing those motors to the limit, and beyond. I like to call it machine abuse
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Yes, I agree with you. It is machine abuse. Drag racers try to get the most power at the least weight and cost. The brush size is 1/2"x9/16". What are the possible volt/amp end limits? 144v/600a? More? I don't want to burn or blow them up. This is just a small scale learning experiment in a different power source. Before buying big motors and Zilla controllers, etc.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Dink said:


> ...The brush size is 1/2"x9/16"...


Sounds like what I have.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Dink said:


> The brush size is 1/2"x9/16".


Too bad  That is the small size, like the low end golf cart motors, however the rest of the motor looks beefier. The heavy duty 6.7s have like twice that brush size.

It's a crap shoot. Yeah, you probably can do 600A for a short period. Go up in voltage and I would advance the brushes. Like 5° for 48 to 96V and 8° for higher voltage.

But if you got brushes the size Todd shows, they likely won't last too long with the kind of abuse you're talkin' about. And break in those suckers in real good. Or you'll end up with problems like CroDriver.

major


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

major said:


> ...they likely won't last too long with the kind of abuse you're talkin' about. And break in those suckers in real good. Or you'll end up with problems like CroDriver.
> major


Is that what happened to CroDriver at the recent drag race event he went to, that resulted in him running with one motor?

Is that the likely extent of the damage - fried brushes? In other words, is it a simple matter of frequently replacing brushes or does the motor have to come apart and be reconditioned/rebuilt each time it happens? I asked those questions because replacing brushes frequently may not be out of question for some drag race vehicles.

You guy are making me want to find a matching 6.7 and run series/parallel on my bike.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

toddshotrods said:


> Is that what happened to CroDriver at the recent drag race event he went to, that resulted in him running with one motor?
> 
> Is that the likely extent of the damage - fried brushes? In other words, is it a simple matter of frequently replacing brushes or does the motor have to come apart and be reconditioned/rebuilt each time it happens? I asked those questions because replacing brushes frequently may not be out of question for some drag race vehicles.
> 
> You guy are making me want to find a matching 6.7 and run series/parallel on my bike.


 Your thinking my way now. Is there a way to put in a larger brush set? New brushes every race or so is cheap and easy, compared to having to adjust valves, check or replace valve springs, plugs, timing, etc, etc. Not counting the cost of fuel. 9's-11's in the 1/8th mile with nothing left would be great. I understand it's only going to be a golf cart on steroids.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Dink said:


> Your thinking my way now...


I'm a drag racer, from the old world (ICE). 

One thing you're certain to encounter in the land of EVs is intense concentration on cost. I had to keep hammering the point home that where I came here from the adage "you have to pay to play" rules. Just learn to distinguish the people trying to save you a dime from the people trying to save your neck.

I agree with you on changing brushes - no big deal. What you have to weigh that against though is having a bigger stronger motor from the start. Just because the motor is big, doesn't mean you have to have a big controller and battery pack. I have an 11" GE forklift motor in my street rod that I am going to start experimenting with at 48 volts, with a golf cart controller (400amp Alltrax). I will continuously step up the power as desired without worrying about hurting it (within reason). The brushes are massive, by comparison. Everything is massive by comparison. 

I'm not saying don't run the dual 6.7s, just consider all options and make an informed decision that best fits your goals.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

toddshotrods said:


> Is that what happened to CroDriver at the recent drag race event he went to, that resulted in him running with one motor?


Not sure, but I saw a comment to or from Mike in that regard.



> Is that the likely extent of the damage - fried brushes? In other words, is it a simple matter of frequently replacing brushes or does the motor have to come apart and be reconditioned/rebuilt each time it happens? I asked those questions because replacing brushes frequently may not be out of question for some drag race vehicles.


Likely extent of damage? Tough call from 5000 miles away. But I'd say no. Most zorch events take out much more than brushes. You can get a plasma around the comm. I have seen results where this plasma has severed cast pieces of metal. Not always the same damage. But rarely just the brushes. If lucky, maybe a comm turn. Worst case, new armature and other various motor guts.

Spare brushes would be a good idea to have at the race track. But would likely only come in handy if you blow the shunt (pigtail) out of one or something like that. Zorching (catastrophic commutation failure) ain't going to be fixed with new brushes.

If you're in that zone, and don't want to pack up early, you better have spare motors, well broken in 

major


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Dink said:


> Is there a way to put in a larger brush set?


No, not practical. It requires a longer commutator. Meaning a new armature. Which means a new motor.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Sorry Dink, I didn't realize you had sent these. I thought it was a notification of a post here, not an email.
















































Insulation class B - definitely doesn't seem to be up to the challenge of high voltage/amps. I think mine is "F", but with the same little brushes.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

toddshotrods said:


> Sorry Dink, I didn't realize you had sent these.


Hi Todd,

The 2 posts from you which had pictures of Dink's motor did not work for me. All I can see is a blue box with a red X in it. I get the feeling you can see them on your machine, but not me. I have not seen one photo of Dink's motor. I can see photos of yours when you post them.

major


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Attempted a fix - let me know if it worked...


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

toddshotrods said:


> Attempted a fix - let me know if it worked...


No change on this end  except I see your edit note.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

It could be because your browser has the old versions cached. You can try holding control (PC) or shift (Mac) down and refreshing the page, but the easiest way is just for me to post them again with the thumbnail method. I deleted the images on my first attempt, but they were cached on my computer, so I saw pics and you saw Xs.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

toddshotrods said:


> You can try holding control (PC) or shift (Mac) down and refreshing the page,


That didn't work.



> but the easiest way is just for me to post them again with the thumbnail method


That works.

Looks like yours and his both have the small brush and short comm. But his appears to have fewer comm segments. Meaning higher RPM and higher armature current capability (as in a continuous rating vs 15 second overload stuff). 

major


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

major said:


> ...Looks like yours and his both have the small brush and short comm. But his appears to have fewer comm segments. Meaning higher RPM and higher armature current capability (as in a continuous rating vs 15 second overload stuff).
> 
> major


Continuous rating is higher with fewer comm segments; is 15 second overload the same? I don't plan to push mine hard, just trying to learn something. 

How big of a problem, if any, is his Class B insluation rating for pushing it to the extremes?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

toddshotrods said:


> Continuous rating is higher with fewer comm segments; is 15 second overload the same? I don't plan to push mine hard, just trying to learn something.


Well, not always, apples and oranges. But the armature with fewer comm segments in this case has quite a bit larger cross section of armature conductor, so can carry more current for a given temperature rise. The fact that it is a lower class of insulation will negate that to some degree. And a higher current rating is not necessarily a higher power rating if the other motor is designed to run at higher voltage, which it might be. Generally speaking, on these single turn armatures, less comm segment count, bigger conductors, more current.

But that armature current has to go thru the brushes. And short time base ratings (like 10 minutes or less) are likely to be determined by the brush temperature rise. Get down to 15 second high overload, brushes go first. So two motors with equal brushes would do close to the same current for 15 seconds.

Kinda rules of thumb. All sorts of other things might enter into it. Maybe yours with higher number of comm bars will commutate better and therefore have less temperature rise in the brush. And there is also the black art of carbon. You know, the secret recipe used to conjure up the brush material.



> How big of a problem, if any, is his Class B insluation rating for pushing it to the extremes?


It ain't good. But may not enter into it by being brush limited on drag duty. Actually his motor looked like it carried pretty decent longer time base rating. If he was running ovals or road courses, class B would be a problem.

major


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

major said:


> No, not practical. It requires a longer commutator. Meaning a new armature. Which means a new motor.


 Just a thought.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

major said:


> Well, not always, apples and oranges. But the armature with fewer comm segments in this case has quite a bit larger cross section of armature conductor, so can carry more current for a given temperature rise. The fact that it is a lower class of insulation will negate that to some degree. And a higher current rating is not necessarily a higher power rating if the other motor is designed to run at higher voltage, which it might be. Generally speaking, on these single turn armatures, less comm segment count, bigger conductors, more current.
> 
> But that armature current has to go thru the brushes. And short time base ratings (like 10 minutes or less) are likely to be determined by the brush temperature rise. Get down to 15 second high overload, brushes go first. So two motors with equal brushes would do close to the same current for 15 seconds.
> 
> ...


 Any other info needed, comm numbers, dia. of armature? For an educated guess as to max volt/amp limit for short duration machine abuse,(understanding regular brush maintance) without going beyond?


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

toddshotrods said:


> I'm a drag racer, from the old world (ICE).
> 
> One thing you're certain to encounter in the land of EVs is intense concentration on cost. I had to keep hammering the point home that where I came here from the adage "you have to pay to play" rules. Just learn to distinguish the people trying to save you a dime from the people trying to save your neck.
> 
> ...


 My ICE doe's 11.30/40s in street trim. (wrong forum) Yes, you have to pay to play, and you also get what you pay for. Just because it's the new cheap craze does't mean it's the rightway. Just dealing with what I have available to me. Will put together with a 36v 400amp curtis controller on each motor to work out the bugs, then new controllers and more batteries if performance increase is worth the cost. If not I'll just play with gearing and keep it to drive around localy. Then search into bigger motor/motors, etc.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

major said:


> ...It's a crap shoot. Yeah, you probably can do 600A for a short period. Go up in voltage and I would advance the brushes. Like 5° for 48 to 96V and 8° for higher voltage...


Going with that advice, you have some room to play. Run it on the ragged edge until you find the limit! 

The other option, which I have kept in mind is upgrading to a more internally stout 6.7" motor later. In your case, since you'd be running dual motors, you can have a couple ADC (or similar) motors race-prepped and swap them in; if you like the car and want to keep going with it. The two GE motors will give you a cheap way into the game, and quick setup to test/tune the vehicle. That's also a great selling point if you decide to get rid of it later.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

toddshotrods said:


> Going with that advice, you have some room to play. Run it on the ragged edge until you find the limit!
> 
> The other option, which I have kept in mind is upgrading to a more internally stout 6.7" motor later. In your case, since you'd be running dual motors, you can have a couple ADC (or similar) motors race-prepped and swap them in; if you like the car and want to keep going with it. The two GE motors will give you a cheap way into the game, and quick setup to test/tune the vehicle. That's also a great selling point if you decide to get rid of it later.


 You just said it in a nutshell. I guess it's 36v for start-up, then probably 72v that way I can just rewire the 2, 36v parellel battery packs to a single 72v one. I'll loose range, but will work for testing, and might be good race wise. (less pack weight) Depends on controllers. Warp/Trans warp combo, 7"or9" sounds good for an upgrade. The 7" has a better rpm potential but it's give and take. I'll see what happens. I have everything to set up at 36v. Just need the appropriate victim for machine abuse. Then it's game on.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

major said:


> Too bad  That is the small size, like the low end golf cart motors, however the rest of the motor looks beefier. The heavy duty 6.7s have like twice that brush size.
> 
> It's a crap shoot. Yeah, you probably can do 600A for a short period. Go up in voltage and I would advance the brushes. Like 5° for 48 to 96V and 8° for higher voltage.
> 
> ...


  Thank you very much Sir. You gave me true honest knowlege and let me decide myself, thank you. It doesn't take long to see who knows and who don't.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

toddshotrods said:


> Going with that advice, you have some room to play. Run it on the ragged edge until you find the limit!
> 
> The other option, which I have kept in mind is upgrading to a more internally stout 6.7" motor later. In your case, since you'd be running dual motors, you can have a couple ADC (or similar) motors race-prepped and swap them in; if you like the car and want to keep going with it. The two GE motors will give you a cheap way into the game, and quick setup to test/tune the vehicle. That's also a great selling point if you decide to get rid of it later.


 Thank you. You and Major both get one. You both gave sound advice. I will probably keep the thing once it's built. I still have the 327, I built when my son was born in 1989. (true 350hp 327) If it works good, what the hell. If your still interested in ICE's I'll send pic's of the 65 GTO.


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Thanks Dink. Are you familiar with the concept of doing a series/parallel switch with dual motors?



Dink said:


> ...If your still interested in ICE's I'll send pic's of the 65 GTO.


I'm a certified car nut and diehard racer - I like anything that looks good and goes fast!  That Goat sounds like fun, by the way. Looking forward to the pics.


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## Dink (Jun 3, 2010)

toddshotrods said:


> Thanks Dink. Are you familiar with the concept of doing a series/parallel switch with dual motors?
> 
> 
> I'm a certified car nut and diehard racer - I like anything that looks good and goes fast!  That Goat sounds like fun, by the way. Looking forward to the pics.


 I understand the water hose theory, for how to wire it and the current path, for the series/ parallel. But how it react's concerning the motors and thier output, that is part of why I posted my first question. I know ICE's, this is new ground for me. I'm not trying to be Plasma Boy, but looking at it that way, not transpo. So want a little sleeper.... understand? Learn though R and D, and experence. Papa always said, "engage brain before operating mouth", and "it's better to be thought a fool than to open mouth and remove all dought". (thank's on the cheap/save your ass comment) PS. I'll send the gto pic's how I know they'll make it.


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