# [EVDL] Still looking - MeterMaid Power Meter or something else.



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

This is what I don't like about the Kill-A-Watt and Watts Up meters. They
are rated at 15 amps and probably should take less than that for continuous
charging.

Right now I'm charging on a 20 amp circuit at home and running the Russco at
15 amps. I did install a heavy-duty (but not commercial grade) outlet. I do
plan to upgrade the circuit to 30 amps so I can run the Russco at 100%. I
suspect the Kill-A-Watt is not going to stand up to that very well. The one
I've borrowed is already beginning to show some signs of the heat.

This is why I like that the MeterMaid is rated at 30 amps.

I still need to find out what the rating on the circuit at work is. I
suspect 20 amps.

The other solutions I've been considering is to either put a regular house
utility meter permanently in the trunk (from John Blair) - cheap, but bulky
(https://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-
Battery-Monitors/Power-Meters/GE-Solar-Panels-KWHR-Meter-240V-100A-EZ-Read-M
eter/p3918/); or use a submeter as David Nelson suggested
(http://ekmmetering.com/EKM_Metering/Products.html).

With the house meter, I don't like the idea of having to open the trunk
every charge at the start and finish to check the kWh reading. With the
submeter, at least I could mount that on the dash somewhere. However,
submeters also tend to get expensive and I'm still trying to figure out if
they require 110V to the meter. If so, I'm not sure I want to run 110V AC
into the passenger compartment. If I keep it under the hood, or in the
trunk, I'm back to opening something every time I charge.

I like the simplicity of and the amperage rating of the MeterMaid. Don't
like the cost and cord looks wimpy which bothers me.
http://www.powermeterstore.com/p5650/metermaid_power_meter.php 

Sure wish I could find someone who has used the MeterMaid with an EV.

Any other thoughts? Anyone?

Thanks. 

Greg
http://www.evalbum.com/2695 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf
Of SLPinfo.org
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 1:18 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] MeterMaid Power Meter

Jon,

I've used my Kill-A-Watt meter for several months and routinely draw 12.5
amps with no problem. But I plug into a 20A circuit which may make the
difference.

Something else to consider. One thing I did right at the beginning was
replace the standard household outlet with a commercial grade one (not
particularly expensive, maybe $5-6). I read somewhere (perhaps on this
list?) that standard household outlets are not intended to be used for
drawing amp loads near the circuit maximum for extended periods. Perhaps
the heat problem you experienced was due to the outlet you're plugging into
rather than the Kill-A-Watt meter itself?

- Peter Flipsen Jr
Pocatello, ID
http://www.evalbum.com/1974







> Jon Glauser <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > I used my kill-a-watt for a little while, but at 13-15 amps for a
> > couple hours the connections got hot enough to melt the plastic
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hello Greg,

Go to your local power company meter shop. You may even get one free. They 
are replacing the old horizontal dial type up to 200 amps and the digital CT 
type which uses a Current Transformer that uses a donut type transformer 
where one of the AC power wire go through with new meters that can be read 
remotely from the street.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Tyler" <[email protected]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 11:36 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Still looking - MeterMaid Power Meter or something else.


> This is what I don't like about the Kill-A-Watt and Watts Up meters. They
> are rated at 15 amps and probably should take less than that for 
> continuous
> charging.
>
> Right now I'm charging on a 20 amp circuit at home and running the Russco 
> at
> 15 amps. I did install a heavy-duty (but not commercial grade) outlet. I 
> do
> plan to upgrade the circuit to 30 amps so I can run the Russco at 100%. I
> suspect the Kill-A-Watt is not going to stand up to that very well. The 
> one
> I've borrowed is already beginning to show some signs of the heat.
>
> This is why I like that the MeterMaid is rated at 30 amps.
>
> I still need to find out what the rating on the circuit at work is. I
> suspect 20 amps.
>
> The other solutions I've been considering is to either put a regular house
> utility meter permanently in the trunk (from John Blair) - cheap, but 
> bulky
> (https://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-
> Battery-Monitors/Power-Meters/GE-Solar-Panels-KWHR-Meter-240V-100A-EZ-Read-M
> eter/p3918/); or use a submeter as David Nelson suggested
> (http://ekmmetering.com/EKM_Metering/Products.html).
>
> With the house meter, I don't like the idea of having to open the trunk
> every charge at the start and finish to check the kWh reading. With the
> submeter, at least I could mount that on the dash somewhere. However,
> submeters also tend to get expensive and I'm still trying to figure out if
> they require 110V to the meter. If so, I'm not sure I want to run 110V AC
> into the passenger compartment. If I keep it under the hood, or in the
> trunk, I'm back to opening something every time I charge.
>
> I like the simplicity of and the amperage rating of the MeterMaid. Don't
> like the cost and cord looks wimpy which bothers me.
> http://www.powermeterstore.com/p5650/metermaid_power_meter.php
>
> Sure wish I could find someone who has used the MeterMaid with an EV.
>
> Any other thoughts? Anyone?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Greg
> http://www.evalbum.com/2695
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On 
> Behalf
> Of SLPinfo.org
> Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 1:18 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] MeterMaid Power Meter
>
> Jon,
>
> I've used my Kill-A-Watt meter for several months and routinely draw 12.5
> amps with no problem. But I plug into a 20A circuit which may make the
> difference.
>
> Something else to consider. One thing I did right at the beginning was
> replace the standard household outlet with a commercial grade one (not
> particularly expensive, maybe $5-6). I read somewhere (perhaps on this
> list?) that standard household outlets are not intended to be used for
> drawing amp loads near the circuit maximum for extended periods. Perhaps
> the heat problem you experienced was due to the outlet you're plugging 
> into
> rather than the Kill-A-Watt meter itself?
>
> - Peter Flipsen Jr
> Pocatello, ID
> http://www.evalbum.com/1974
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 22, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Jon Glauser <[email protected]> 


> > wrote:
> >
> > > I used my kill-a-watt for a little while, but at 13-15 amps for a
> > > couple hours the connections got hot enough to melt the plastic
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

You can also buy refurbished power company style meters for about $35 from
Hialeah meter company on line. Add $20 for a socket, and you have a
mechanical kWh meter for alot less than most of these electronic ones. You
also have to be able to wire it up, which may require an electrician if you
are not trained in this yourself though.

Z



> Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > Hello Greg,
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I melted my Kill a Watt meter running it at ~13 amps. The meter still works, but the plastic case of the meter is warped and discolored. The easiest way to track your consumption is to charge with an Avcon ;-) I had acess to one at my old job for almost 2 years. Nobody else used it and it would audibly tell me what the KWH consumption was at the start and finish of every cycle.

TiM '61 Corvair Rampside

http://www.evalbum.com/656





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Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Greg,

If you get a meter like this one:
http://ekmmetering.com/EKM_Metering/EKM-15EDS-N_v.2.html . the only
120V wiring you need for the meter is small wiring. You could email
them and ask how much current the meter it self draws but I suspect is
is really low. You could put in a very low current fuse in the line
that powers the meter. It does need to be powered by your source power
so it knows what the voltage is and can properly read the current.

FWIW, I have no connection with the company. I have just inquired
about their meters for use in my conversion.

HTH,

David

On Wed, Jul 22, 2009 at 11:36 AM, Greg Tyler<[email protected]> wrot=
e:
> This is what I don't like about the Kill-A-Watt and Watts Up meters. They
> are rated at 15 amps and probably should take less than that for continuo=
us
> charging.
>
> Right now I'm charging on a 20 amp circuit at home and running the Russco=
at
> 15 amps. I did install a heavy-duty (but not commercial grade) outlet. I =
do
> plan to upgrade the circuit to 30 amps so I can run the Russco at 100%. I
> suspect the Kill-A-Watt is not going to stand up to that very well. The o=
ne
> I've borrowed is already beginning to show some signs of the heat.
>
> This is why I like that the MeterMaid is rated at 30 amps.
>
> I still need to find out what the rating on the circuit at work is. I
> suspect 20 amps.
>
> The other solutions I've been considering is to either put a regular house
> utility meter permanently in the trunk (from John Blair) - cheap, but bul=
ky
> (https://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Mete=
rs-
> Battery-Monitors/Power-Meters/GE-Solar-Panels-KWHR-Meter-240V-100A-EZ-Rea=
d-M
> eter/p3918/); or use a submeter as David Nelson suggested
> (http://ekmmetering.com/EKM_Metering/Products.html).
>
> With the house meter, I don't like the idea of having to open the trunk
> every charge at the start and finish to check the kWh reading. With the
> submeter, at least I could mount that on the dash somewhere. However,
> submeters also tend to get expensive and I'm still trying to figure out if
> they require 110V to the meter. If so, I'm not sure I want to run 110V AC
> into the passenger compartment. If I keep it under the hood, or in the
> trunk, I'm back to opening something every time I charge.
>
> I like the simplicity of and the amperage rating of the MeterMaid. Don't
> like the cost and cord looks wimpy which bothers me.
> http://www.powermeterstore.com/p5650/metermaid_power_meter.php
>
> Sure wish I could find someone who has used the MeterMaid with an EV.
>
> Any other thoughts? Anyone?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Greg
> http://www.evalbum.com/2695
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Beh=
alf
> Of SLPinfo.org
> Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 1:18 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] MeterMaid Power Meter
>
> Jon,
>
> I've used my Kill-A-Watt meter for several months and routinely draw 12.5
> amps with no problem. But I plug into a 20A circuit which may make the
> difference.
>
> Something else to consider. One thing I did right at the beginning was
> replace the standard household outlet with a commercial grade one (not
> particularly expensive, maybe $5-6). I read somewhere (perhaps on this
> list?) that standard household outlets are not intended to be used for
> drawing amp loads near the circuit maximum for extended periods. Perha=
ps
> the heat problem you experienced was due to the outlet you're plugging in=
to
> rather than the Kill-A-Watt meter itself?
>
> - Peter Flipsen Jr
> Pocatello, ID
> http://www.evalbum.com/1974
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 22, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Jon Glauser <[email protected]> wrot=
e:
>
>> I used my kill-a-watt for a little while, but at 13-15 amps for a
>> couple hours the connections got hot enough to melt the plastic
>> housing. Drawing more than 10 amps through it for more than a few
>> minutes is more than it can handle, though it says up to 15 amps. I
>> suspect it's like your outlets. Up to 15 amps peak, but less than 80%
>> continuous.
>>
>> -Jon Glauser
>> http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
>> http://www.evalbum.com/555
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/ Usage guidelines:
>> http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>>
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> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/ Usage guidelines:
> http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>



-- =

David D. Nelson
http://evalbum.com/1328

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> TiM M wrote:
> > I melted my Kill a Watt meter running it at ~13 amps. The meter still works, but the plastic case of the meter is warped and discolored. The easiest way to track your consumption is to charge with an Avcon ;-) I had acess to one at my old job for almost 2 years. Nobody else used it and it would audibly tell me what the KWH consumption was at the start and finish of every cycle.
> >
> > TiM '61 Corvair Rampside
> ...


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