# 2002 Nissan Altima conversion



## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

Just bought donor a couple days ago.... nailing down functional requirement specifics with my first build-to-suit client!

The Altima is in great shape, has a lot of highway miles so motor is tired, but that was great from our perspective as it brought the price down! It has big 'ol 3.5L v-6 motor and manual 5-speed. Body and interior are nice, should be fine with no major mechanical restoration needed.

Unfortunately, CanEV.com does not have an adapter design for the Nissan v-6, they only have the little 4-cyl adapter.... so, I am faced with trying to design/fab an adapter at a local machine shop unless anybody has a better solution off the shelf in stock somewhere? I really like the simple approach CanEV uses with plate adapter and plain keyed motor hub retaining stock clutch/flywheel, perhaps removing starter ring and lightening flywheel if I can find somebody local to re-balance. If anyone else has been considering a build w/ Nissan v-6 motor (model vq35de), please contact Randy at CanEV.com and let him know there is a demand!

Other than that, it will be a pretty standard build.... probably 144v x 130ah battery pack, Warp9, zilla, 3000w cabin heat, battery warmers for winter, electric power steering pump, electric brake vacuum pump, remove A/C (not that hot in Santa Fe, especially for short in-town trips).


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Interesting. DT, quite a number of Mazda b series pick-ups have been converted and I believe that era of vehicles had the same Mazda /Nissan v6 motor. Try those builds first. 

Big warning from feedback on canev adapter kits, the keyed boss is not suited to clutch conversions as it can move on the motor shaft. A taper lock bush is best.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

tylerwatts said:


> Interesting. DT, quite a number of Mazda b series pick-ups have been converted and I believe that era of vehicles had the same Mazda /Nissan v6 motor. Try those builds first.


I don't think so... the old nissan pickups had 2.4L 4-cyl. The garage has lots of that size, and thats the adapter that is on the shelf. The newer bigger ones like the Titan, Pathfinder, 350zx use the 3.5L v-6, which is NOT available, and I haven't found any completed conversions using that motor (the vq35de).



tylerwatts said:


> Big warning from feedback on canev adapter kits, the keyed boss is not suited to clutch conversions as it can move on the motor shaft. A taper lock bush is best.


I would consider this pure hearsay unless you know of some examples. The CanEV adapter uses a keyed hub, but has set screws to prevent slippage/rotation. I don't know of any failures of their system. I have read several accounts here of the ReBirth design failing however.... A simple keyed hub is a pretty standard solution, so I am wondering what you base this comment on.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

I understand that issue was wit the clutch release pressure steadily pushing the hub along the shaft. Maybe hearsay. 

South Africa had the v6 probably because of emitions.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

tylerwatts said:


> I understand that issue was wit the clutch release pressure steadily pushing the hub along the shaft. Maybe hearsay.


not possible with the CanEV designs I have seen, the hub is backed up with a collar/spacer to the shoulder of the motor shaft shoulder, it cannot push back along the shaft.... thats important to maintain the correct distance from clutch pressure plate to clutch. I wouldn't make statements like that unless you have first-hand experience.....


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## tomofreno (Mar 3, 2009)

I've been using a canev adapter and hub for 4 years/30k miles with no issues. Quite irresponsible to say such things that could hurt a company's business without solid supporting data. In the event of such an incident it would have to be known whether or not the set screws were properly tightened with loctite applied.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

tomofreno said:


> I've been using a canev adapter and hub for 4 years/30k miles with no issues. Quite irresponsible to say such things that could hurt a company's business without solid supporting data. In the event of such an incident it would have to be known whether or not the set screws were properly tightened with loctite applied.


exactly my point, I don't want to beat this to death, but these types of issues are exactly the type of thing we all need to stick to first hand information, and try to get to the root of mechanical failures... we are on the cutting edge, learning some hard lessons, and developing 'de facto' standards as we go.

I have had no issues in 15k miles with CanEV in my Swift, so thats my only real reference point. I like the simplicity, have faith in a properly installed hub w/ keyway, and doubt any extra thrust bearing is needed.

I HAVE seen failures documented here on clutchless designs, cracking of welds in solid couplers, problems if things aren't concentric and balanced, and similar issues that lead me to believe the clutched design is superior in safety, shifting, and durability.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Apologies gentlemen. Only wanted to mention a possible risk. I've never seen the collar that spaces to hub out. That would almost make the screws only a safety redundancy feature as the clutch bearing would hold the hub towards the motor and the collar keep it in the correct axial location. I'll move I'm again my apologies. 

Have you thought to cross check what vehicles used the same transmission as your Nissan to see if a kit for an alternative vehicle is available? That could get lucky.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

tylerwatts said:


> Apologies gentlemen. Only wanted to mention a possible risk.
> Have you thought to cross check what vehicles used the same transmission as your Nissan to see if a kit for an alternative vehicle is available? That could get lucky.



no problems... yes, I went thru the list of vehicles using that motor, no completed projects online I could find using the vq35de motor; several abandoned projects. These motors went in the larger 'mid-size' vehicles that are not the first choice for the average EVer. Also, its arelatively new motor, and the vehicles it went into are just now starting to be the right age for conversion....

so, still trying to get CanEV to pick it up as a new model, or dig up a local shop capable of quality mill/lathe work needed.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

finally got my garage cleaned out to start on the Altima.... stay tuned for progress pix. Client settled on 38(120v) x 130ah CALB battery pack as a good compromise of performance/range... using Warp9 and Zilla, it should be fun.

Challenges that I have not had with other builds will be:
- tranny adapter is not available off the shelf from usual suppliers
- needs power steering pump for sure
- needs battery box heaters for winter as it will be stored in open carport


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

IMHO 50S (160v) x 100Ah is WAY better compromise.
Same range, same price, same space (or less) and more performance...


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

Yabert said:


> IMHO 50S (160v) x 100Ah is WAY better compromise.
> Same range, same price, same space (or less) and more performance...


I am unfamiliar with those batteries, or where to get them.... so stuck with CALB from calibpower.com

anyway, parts are all purchased now.... de-ICING has begun


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

I was talking about CALB 100Ah...

130Ah sag to 2.7v per cell = around 100 Kw and shorter power band
100Ah sag to 2.5v per cell = around 120 Kw and longer power band

Anyway, keep us informed about your good work on this conversion.


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## mk4gti (May 6, 2011)

pics 

Hope you will document as well as your other builds


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

mk4gti said:


> pics
> 
> Hope you will document as well as your other builds


probably not QUITE as step-by-step as the Swift, but certainly will set up a gallery on my website, and post major milestones/questions here as design challenges come up and get solved.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

no website set up yet, but I thought I would throw in a note before I forget.... pulling the motor on these Altimas is a bit of a challenge. very tight motor bay, filled with P/S, A/C, etc.

current challenge is that predictably frozen exhaust bolts made it problematic to pull exhaust system from closest connection to motor. I got one side, but stripped/broke second side of the v-6 and the drop from manifold in the back of the motor curls around the CV shaft.... going to have to pull CV to pull the motor!

detail here is that contrary to many sources, you need a 32mm socket (not 35 or 36) for the CV axle nut.... sigh. not expensive, but two trips to the hw store to get the right size....

second big tip is.... loosen the axle nuts before you even jack up the vehicle, at least on the passenger side, as you will PROBABLY have to either replace CVs while you are there, or at least remove to pull the engine and consider how to fabricate connection to engine mount for CV carrier bearing that is common on most FWD vehicles direct to old ICE engine block. You really need either a second person with foot on brake, or wheel on the ground to get enough leverage to loosen the axle nuts!

I'll take some pictures.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

just a little followup on the CV removal..... had to go buy an impact wrench! a 4' breaker wouldn't work, and girlfriend standing on the brakes couldn't hold it. I went to Harbor Freight and picked up a heavy duty impact wrench for $93 (1200 ft-# torque) and spun that axle nut right off!

so.... challenge now is how to disconnect the PS so I can try to pull the engine. I have everything else disconnected I think... but reaching the PS connections to rack is hard, and reaching connections from pump is pretty tough as well. Not sure how to proceed at the moment; shop manual is 'in the mail', so I don't know what the recommended procedure is to do the final disconnects before lifting out the motor.


just found youtube video on removing PS connections.... youtube is an amazing resource! this video confirms what I was about to try.... but some of the brackets holding hose are tough to reach!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W57fhk23XN4


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## Russco (Dec 23, 2008)

dtbaker said:


> finally got my garage cleaned out to start on the Altima.... stay tuned for progress pix. Client settled on 38(120v) x 130ah CALB battery pack as a good compromise of performance/range... using Warp9 and Zilla, it should be fun.


Are the CALB 130's still available? Maybe only in the old blue design. Don't think they were ever available in the new superior gray design.


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## z_power (Dec 17, 2011)

If proper disconnecting of PS pipes/hoses caused to much PITA I'd consider cutting them in accessible area. They probably won't be reusable in present shape after conversion and will need some bending, custom length of elastic sections and proper fittings for new pump. Some $$$ to leave in hydraulic shop but rather hard to avoid it when doing right way.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

Russco said:


> Are the CALB 130's still available? Maybe only in the old blue design. Don't think they were ever available in the new superior gray design.



yes, blue ones.... price was right tho


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

C'mon, post some pics already!


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

evmetro said:


> C'mon, post some pics already!


ok, ok, I only have a few since I'm in the middle of de-ICEing and it's not too interesting yet. Only interesting thing right now is how hard it is to get to the power steering connections....


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

It might be nice to have before and after pics to compare once the project is complete.

It's kinda interesting how much harder the ICE version is to work on compared to a nice EV conversion. When you go to remove those steering lines, I would bet that you are asking yourself why they had to build it like that... Everything I build when I do a conversion I try to imagine myself working on in the future.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

*getting tranny dimensions for adapter....*

this page shows all the vehicles this motor was used in:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine#VQ35DE

I spent some time sifting around the internet looking for a transmission part number, but not having great luck, and no dimensional drawings so far. there is no gasket between motor/tranny, so I can't order one to measure from.

I found some with an end view on eBay like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-02-Ni...Transmission-3-5L-V6-JDM-VQ35DE-/131091711768

I hate to pull the whole tranny and ship it back and forth to a shop.... does anyone have any better ideas to obtain dimensions, or cheap source for bell housing core I could buy and ship to avoid removal/re-install of mine?


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## rtz (Jul 3, 2013)

Contact this place and tell them of your adapter plate situation:

http://evwest.com/


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

rtz said:


> Contact this place and tell them of your adapter plate situation:
> 
> http://evwest.com/


they just resell.... mostly from CanEV.com, and they are not willing to start a new design right now.


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## rtz (Jul 3, 2013)

This place says they will make an adaptor:

http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/adaptors.shtml


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

rtz said:


> This place says they will make an adaptor:
> 
> http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/adaptors.shtml


I don't particularly like the taperlock motor hub design... just a plain keyed coupler is fine. I have found a shop ready to make the adaptor at a reasonable price http://www.eleccarspartscompany.com .... the problem I asked about is whether anyone has either a dimensional drawing of my specific transmission, or ideas on where I can find one or make one accurately enough, so I don't have to ship my bellhousing back and forth.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

finally getting back to spending some time on this.... still finalizing tranny adaptor and motor mount design. 

I now have a template marked out for the adaptor plate, and can pull the clutch/flywheel off the motor to get the 'magic number' for the hub. The back of the flywheel/starter ring is just about flush with the mating face surface, so I think the plate is probably going to require a little milling or a spacer ring for clearance.

The second issue is bigger.... designing the motor mounts.

The stock setup uses 4 mounts. one at end of tranny, one at other end of motor hanging off the chassis near a shocktower, which I think will be fairly easy to use with a plate dropping down to the face of the electric motor. HOWEVER, the torque mounts are going to be a bit of a challenge as they are close to the adaptor/tranny face.... I'm not quite sure yet whether I should design arms from the adaptor, or go with a ring-clamp with arms to meet up with the mounts.

I am a little nervous about a ring-clamp friction mount holding against all the torque..... any comments on this?


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: 2002 Nissan Altima conversion - EVERYTHING FOR SALE*

Ya'll have probably been able to tell from my lack of posts that I have done almost nothing on this build since last post. Way too busy selling Solar. I have come to the sad realization that I cannot finish this in a timely manner.... and haven't sold my eMiata yet, so I have got to get rid of something.

I've decided to try selling the Altima as is, plus the EV parts gathered so far, then junk it if nobody wants to pick up the project and finish from where I've left off.

So..... I am putting a post in the For Sale board


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