# Use hall effect pedal on a controller looking for a potentiometer input.



## toper (Jul 12, 2018)

Hey everyone,
I've been working on my EV conversion, and if you want to see my current progress, here's a link to my latest video on it (https://youtu.be/V86oAZzfwRE). 

I'm working on wiring it all together and getting the motor to react to the throttle pedal. After trying for a bit, I came to the conclusion that my controller requires a potentiometer input, whereas I was directly wired to the gas pedal output which is hall effect. From what I understand, hall effect is inductive and doesn't result in the same characteristics as a potentiometer, so I'd like to find a way to get this to work. 

My question is, what would you do in this situation? I really don't want to install a whole new pedal assembly, but there's no throttle cable or easy way I can see to get the controller to communicate with it. 

The two thoughts I've had so far is:
A) use the throttle wire and an arduino to control a digitally controlled potentiometer, but I am worried about what happens if the arduino suddenly freezes up or something. 

B) Attaching a throttle cable to the current gas pedal, so as you press the pedal, it moves the cable. Then run that up to a Curtis style pot box. That would likely work, but seems like the one that requires the most amount of modifications. If there's an easier way, I am all for it. Let me know what you guys think.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Without having us go research every detail of your built in other threads/forums/websites:
1) What controller
2) What hall effect are you using?


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## toper (Jul 12, 2018)

The hall effect pedal is the stock pedal used in my e46 BMW 325xi. It outputs a voltage between around .5-4v. The controller is the EP1000 (http://www.ep-1000.com/images/EPC_Controller_Manual.pdf) which has a wire that takes in 0-5v from a potentiometer like the Curtis PB-6. 

I also did try turning on the controller before connecting the pedal, as it has protection to stop the motor if it notices the pedal isn't at 0% on startup. It didn't seem to make a difference. I just got some potentiometers to test if it works correctly using them, I'll update the thread when I am able to test that.


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