# Tesla A/C Compressor Questions



## 242 (Dec 10, 2016)

Hello,
Any information going around on the Tesla's air conditioner compressor?

I am looking for the a/c system options for my conversion.
I settled on driving a typical Sanden R134 compressor from the tailshaft of the motor.
Yet maybe the Tesla compressor is good?
Any idea what voltage it takes in? How many amps could it draw?

Any positive/negatives you see on this plan?
I once checked about the Nissan Leaf setup, and I believe it's more complicated than typical auto a/c systems.
I think the Leaf has two expansion valves and a "special" evaporator with two different loops inside?
I have no idea if this is correct, please do correct if I'm wrong!

Thank you!


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## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

242 said:


> Any information going around on the Tesla's air conditioner compressor?


I haven't seen much information to-date but it is on our open source development list 

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?p=923082#post923082


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## 242 (Dec 10, 2016)

Thank you Kevin!
In my way to check out that link.

I also found this other option, using the Toyota Prius compressor:

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-controller-04-09-prius-c-140346p2.html

EDIT: Kevin! From your thread last night was that the Tesla compressor got me thinking!
Haha forward with your car! Those 800 series are gorgeous!


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## 242 (Dec 10, 2016)

I just saw the: 
Benling 27cc a/c scroll compressor (from evtv.me)

It states it's 15,700 Btu... 
Anybody got an idea how many BTUs are "typical" 2017 vehicles?
Something like a Toyota Corolla, not a Cadillac Escalade.
Any thoughts on the BTU number of those systems?


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## itchyback (May 28, 2014)

I've been looking into this recently too. 

I dont believe the Tesla system has been hacked yet. I dont know about other cars. I read a post here, maybe Dr Jeff with the delorian that he plugged it in but it required CAN communication or something else fancy to work. 

I had three options
Masterflux
EVTV scroll compressor
one more i cant remember but it was the most expensive.

All i think were capable of 15000BTU's, and i havent seen much higher than that. Since i'm converting a sedan i want that. I also want 400v so i can plug it straight to my battery and have a smaller DC-DC converter. The complete masterflux system with controller is about $1500ish. 
I've decided to try the EVTV compressor, its the cheapest, one of the most powerful and runs straight from battery. 

I wish i could provide you links for the products and better descriptions but i'm on a different computer and having made a decision, i've quickly forgotten all the details why 

PS dont forget to size your evaporator and condensor appropriately, all that power wont go anywhere otherwise.


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## Fasteagle (Dec 12, 2018)

Has anybody found any technical data about this compressor lately ?
The last post on this thread was a few years ago. 
I am interested in hacking this compressor for EV conversion projects. I live in Florida and it gets excruciatingly hot and AC is a must have option. I plan to use this compressor on a 1999 Corvette for now until I get my act together on a full blown EV conversion.
I have a compressor on my bench now that I am dissecting. It looks like it uses two phase electrical as an input. They are heavy gauge wires that can handle about 100 amps or so.
I need to know what that source is for sure. How many volts ? 
AC or DC ?
The motor uses three phase input and is attached to a board that looks like a speed control. There is a plug off to the side that has four 18 gauge wires. I am thinking it is the motor control. How does the motor control work ? I will post some pictures of the board when I take it off. It has to be de-soldered first. I don't want to damage it unless I have to.


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## tiger82 (Sep 23, 2015)

Not sure what model you have, but the easiest to hack will be the pre 2014 Denso ES34C which is PWM controlled. Later compressors are CANbus controlled and will require access to a functional vehicle. I have an ES34C and will also be looking at it shortly. I've attached a snip from the Tesla wiring diagram.


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## tiger82 (Sep 23, 2015)

Success! I got the ES34C running. It is very easy to control and very tolerant of input conditions. It takes a PWM signal anywhere from 35 to 400 hz. Control range is from 5% (max speed) to 85% (min speed) duty cycle. 

I supplied 12V to Pin 7 (VIgn), Grounded pins 1 (Gnd) and 6 (On/Off), and left pins 3 (Diag) and 5 (Power (FB)) unconnected. The 12V PWM signal was input to pin 6 (PWMin). 

Note that the colors on the wires coming out of the compressor body do not agree with the Tesla wiring diagram I attached in the previous post (colors may change at the mating connector).


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## 242 (Dec 10, 2016)

thanks tiger!!


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## 242 (Dec 10, 2016)

jsimonkeller,
Maybe in a site like RockAuto.com?
You could check 2015 model year, then compare with 16, 17, and 18.
Maybe those part numbers change?


Keep us posted!


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## 242 (Dec 10, 2016)

From my uninformed opinion: I doubt the compressor runs its main motor on 12volts.
I would imagine it wants high voltage, a la battery-packs.
What that high voltage is? That's the question. (300 volts? I don't know!)

Maybe tiger can answer us.


I wouldn't see a problem testing the compressor without the full refrigerant loop... yet just for short testing cycles. Remember the refrigerant loop also contains diffused compressor oil... which an open-loop wont be providing.


Yet I wouldn't mind testing it in a couple of short bursts.


As for the PWM controller, I don't know what tiger did, yet if I had to do it right now, I would grab a raspberry pi (or an Arduino) and go to town.


Let us know what you plan on doing next!!


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## tiger82 (Sep 23, 2015)

As far as a I know, all Denso ES34C compressors are PWM controlled. Don't look at the date ranges on the Ebay listings. Try to find units for sale that show a picture with the same label that I posted.

You need a HV source connected to test the compressor for it to operate. 12V is only for control. As far as a PWM controller, search for "PWM Generator" on Ebay. There are a number of low cost boards available for less than $10.


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## tiger82 (Sep 23, 2015)

You need a HV DC source to test with. Not sure what the minimum requirement is, but I tested with 360V. If I remember correctly, the load with the compressor at max speed (but unloaded), was in the around 10 amps - so 3.3kW.


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## mfor1000 (Aug 22, 2017)

tiger82 said:


> Success! I got the ES34C running. It is very easy to control and very tolerant of input conditions. It takes a PWM signal anywhere from 35 to 400 hz. Control range is from 5% (max speed) to 85% (min speed) duty cycle.
> 
> I supplied 12V to Pin 7 (VIgn), Grounded pins 1 (Gnd) and 6 (On/Off), and left pins 3 (Diag) and 5 (Power (FB)) unconnected. The 12V PWM signal was input to pin 6 (PWMin).
> 
> Note that the colors on the wires coming out of the compressor body do not agree with the Tesla wiring diagram I attached in the previous post (colors may change at the mating connector).


I see you have pin 6 grounded and PWM? In the telsa diagram On/Off was pin 2, but you said that was 6... is this a typo?

Thanks...


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## tiger82 (Sep 23, 2015)

Yes, typo! Pins 1 (Gnd) and 2(On/Off) were grounded.


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## mfor1000 (Aug 22, 2017)

tiger82 said:


> Yes, typo! Pins 1 (Gnd) and 2(On/Off) were grounded.


Thanks for the confirmation on that. I'm planning to hook up my compressor as follows:

Pin 1: Ground
Pin 2: To be grounded by the AC thermostat
Pin 6: Hooked to PWM board (in pics)
Pin 7: +12 V 

Should this work for controlling it?

I'm thinking about running it at 50% PWM since my system is likely much smaller than a model S.

Thanks,


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## pfoxhound (Jun 24, 2020)

tiger82 said:


> Yes, typo! Pins 1 (Gnd) and 2(On/Off) were grounded.


Can you tell what main voltage you supply to compressor (12V DC or something else) and what is max and min A it consumes.
Thank you!


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## tiger82 (Sep 23, 2015)

This is connected to the HV battery (360V) via a contactor. PWM control input is 12VDC. Current draw at maximum load is in the neighbourhood of 12 amps @ 360V, so somewhere around 4.5kW draw.


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## pfoxhound (Jun 24, 2020)

tiger82 said:


> This is connected to the HV battery (360V) via a contactor. PWM control input is 12VDC. Current draw at maximum load is in the neighbourhood of 12 amps @ 360V, so somewhere around 4.5kW draw.


Is it AC or DC?
I was planning to place a second electric compressor in parallel with mechanical on a semi-truck and add a fan, place Harbour freight gasoline generator in the back of cabin and add charger to truck batteries, this way I was going to use stock Air conditioner system without much additional devices.
If you say it is DC, do you think simple transformer from AC 110V to AC 300V through DIODE and Capacitors will work? 
Thank you for attention!


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## pfoxhound (Jun 24, 2020)

On connector you probably have stamped name of connector. I had similar for 2 contacts, it was written on it...


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## pfoxhound (Jun 24, 2020)

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## arturk (Jan 19, 2017)

Female connector for control signals is Sumitomo P/N: 6189-1240

















8-Way Kit


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## arturk (Jan 19, 2017)

Can someone please share details on polarity (*+/-*) of the orange High Voltage connector?


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Thanks for confirming the control connector! I shared that with @jsimonkeller in a PM but since mine is not in yet I was not 100% sure and only wanted to post online once I did. Regarding the HV, I think the left one is HV+ and the right one is HV-
















But then the next question is: What is the HV connector? Will look into that.


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## arturk (Jan 19, 2017)

Thanks for quick response on polarity, this was last bit of information preventing me from testing my compressor.

As far as control plug I happened to use those Sumitomo connectors a lot since they are used in Lexus/Toyota. Very nice to work with and readily available.
HV connector is another story. Those again are used on Lexus/Toyota hybrids. I would love to know who makes those and where to get them from. If anyone knows please share the info.
I have compressor high voltage cable from Lexus GS450H (Denso ES27C) which has the right plug so I am going to use it on this project.


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## Davidmansor (Sep 24, 2020)

What are you using for the high voltage battery? How is it charged? I’m trying to put a Tesla compressor in a 79 Winnebago Brave with a Carrier EM-7 evaporator and CM 2 condenser. 



tiger82 said:


> This is connected to the HV battery (360V) via a contactor. PWM control input is 12VDC. Current draw at maximum load is in the neighbourhood of 12 amps @ 360V, so somewhere around 4.5kW draw.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

You have 110V appliances in a motorhome. 

Why on earth would you use a 360V compressor when you can repackage a $130 5,000BTU 110V window unit or two?

EDIT: or 240V mains if you're across the pond


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## Davidmansor (Sep 24, 2020)

Well the idea was I wanted to be able to use it without the generator being on or the home being plugged in. I thought the ones from electric cars like a Tesla we’re running on 12v so that was possible. I could run the Ac when we were driving with no generator, plugged in, or on the generator.

if I go with a repackaged fridge or AC one, I guess that would work but the idea was flexibility. . .


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

No. You need around 12 amps at 360V to run the Tesla compressor. The 12V is only to control it.


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## Davidmansor (Sep 24, 2020)

I understand that now. 

so a 134a compressor from a commercial fridge should work? And I should just run it hotwire and switch in from the 110v panel?

like it could be that simple?

I think I read it’s possible to have two condensers in a system? Could I try to put a compressor on the motor, and a second compressor on this 110 V circuit?

If that’s possible I could have AC, while driving without generator, while plugged in and when the gen is on.


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## Wojtek (Sep 25, 2020)

242 said:


> I just saw the:
> Benling 27cc a/c scroll compressor (from evtv.me)
> 
> It states it's 15,700 Btu...
> ...


Probably 48v. I doubt that government would allow such device to work on 400v with simple orange wire sleeve. Get a variable voltage controller and keep applying higher n higher voltage.


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## Classic Style (Nov 28, 2020)

Howdy all, I'm fairly new to this forum, but wanted to give back since I've only been lurking for the last 2 months.
I built a small touch-screen interface that runs on an Arduino Mega 2560 R3 which acts like a climate control system for Tesla PWM-based A/C compressors based on the specs in this thread. Here's a simple run-down of its functionality:
OVERVIEW

On boot-up, it will start in "Auto" mode, and update the interior and exterior temps. Interior is designed to represent your vehicle's interior, and exterior should be obvious 
The "Auto" button will go into whichever mode it needs to after a few seconds once temps are checked against the "desired" temp.
The PWM output of the arduino needs to go through an H-bridge to step up to 12v for the A/C compressor signal wire, I used a L298N easily found on Amazon (Amazon.com: WMYCONGCONG 5 PCS L298N Motor Drive Controller Board Module Dual H Bridge DC Stepper Module for Arduino: Computers & Accessories)
I'm _going to_ use a BTS7960 driver module to power the blower motor in my under-dash A/C unit. That logic hasn't been written but will be in a few days, because I want this control panel to do everything HVAC on the vehicle.
Pressing the blue down arrow will drive the desired temp down, and make the A/C run more, the red arrow will do the inverse. If the desired temp is achieved, the system goes to sleep.
I may need to improve this logic a little bit to let the temp go one degree Fahrenheit past the desired temp to keep the system from cycling constantly and killing the traction battery faster than it should, since I imagine start up is considerably higher current than running.

Pressing the "Off" button will send the system to sleep. Pressing the Sleep button or either temperature change button will wake the system into it's proper state.
You will soon be able to control the blower motor power by using the Fan - / Fan + buttons.
While in "Cool mode" the arduino outputs a 122.55Hz PWM that scales with fan intensity from 5% duty cycle at a delta of 5 degrees from desired temp, up to 85% at 1 degree from delta. When the system goes into sleep, off, or heating mode, the output pin goes "LOW".
Here's a reference photo of the UI









To Do Still:

Setup PWM on pin 45 to drive the BTS7960, which will operate the blower motor as mentioned in #4
Drive the electric heating coil relay so heat mode actually does something other than turn the "Auto" button red...
Maybe futz with the UI a little bit to make it cleaner. I'm no UI designer, but I recognize this is almost as utilitarian as it gets.
Improve the responsiveness for the touchscreen with better main loop optimization.
3D printable housing for all the components.
B.O.M.

Arduino Mega 2560 R3
MCUFriend 6890 2.8" LCD Touch Shield for Arduino (This order comes with an extra shield and Arduino Uno R3 that are pretty unnecessary for this project)
2x 4.7kOhm resistors
2x DS18B20 water-resistant thermistor probes with breakout boards
1x L298N H-Bridge driver
1x BTS7960 43A Driver
Tesla Model S / X PWM-based A/C Compressor
A/C under-dash evaporator kit sans compressor (this is what I intend to use)
Here's my Arduino platform.io project folder. It's a little large cause it includes libraries I ended up not needing or weren't compatible with my touch screen. If you use a different touchscreen, try to get one that is compatible with URTouch, as it's a very nice library.

If anyone feels so inclined, here's my bitcoin address 
btc: 3PdnT2GpKpkB86kwPas9NhZHCbPHK41c97

If you have feedback, please let me know!!


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Very nice. Thanks for offering the share. 

I did use the word "offering" - you forgot to enable access to your G drive, lol.

thanks!


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## jsimonkeller (May 15, 2018)

Classic Style said:


> Howdy all, I'm fairly new to this forum, but wanted to give back since I've only been lurking for the last 2 months.
> I built a small touch-screen interface that runs on an Arduino Mega 2560 R3 which acts like a climate control system for Tesla PWM-based A/C compressors based on the specs in this thread. Here's a simple run-down of its functionality:
> 
> If you have feedback, please let me know!!


Very cool! I just requested access to the Google Drive folder to check this out. For my build, I am also using an Eberspacher 6KW High Voltage PTC Coolant Heater out of a Karma Fisker, which is PWM controlled and I wonder if this would work for the heater control as well.


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## Classic Style (Nov 28, 2020)

Thanks for that, I updated the link with the _now public_ sharing.


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## jsimonkeller (May 15, 2018)

I know this post has been dormant for a little while, but I finally have my Denso ES34C installed and I am connecting things up to my aftermarket Restomod HVAC system. The HVAC system includes a 4 wire trinary switch. The way Restomod would have me hook this up would be to ground out one of the wires, use the other ground to activate the radiator fans through a relay, connect the remaining 12V wires back to their ECU and to the compressor. 

Here is my question. From the earlier posts, it appears that PIN 2 (ON/OFF) would be the pin to attach the trinary switch to, BUT it seems that Pin 2 is looking for a GROUND TRIGGER and not a 12V+ signal. Can someone confirm this. If so, I can use an inverter to change the 12v+ to GND to achieve my end goal.

Thanks to anyone who wants to jump in to help.


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## DANTM (Feb 4, 2019)

jsimonkeller said:


> I know this post has been dormant for a little while, but I finally have my Denso ES34C installed and I am connecting things up to my aftermarket Restomod HVAC system. The HVAC system includes a 4 wire trinary switch. The way Restomod would have me hook this up would be to ground out one of the wires, use the other ground to activate the radiator fans through a relay, connect the remaining 12V wires back to their ECU and to the compressor.
> 
> Here is my question. From the earlier posts, it appears that PIN 2 (ON/OFF) would be the pin to attach the trinary switch to, BUT it seems that Pin 2 is looking for a GROUND TRIGGER and not a 12V+ signal. Can someone confirm this. If so, I can use an inverter to change the 12v+ to GND to achieve my end goal.
> 
> Thanks to anyone who wants to jump in to help.


Hi jsimonkeller, 
I am about to get my ES34C and Vintage Air system charged on Monday. I have it hooked up as you mentioned and simply used a relay to change the +12V coming from the Trinary Switch to a Ground input. This is hard to test until the system is pressurized as the Trinary switch shouldnt activate until it sees some kind of pressure. After I provided a ground signal, the compressor worked. Now, the real question is at what speed to run the compressor via the PWM signal, and of course if all my crimps will hold the pressure!


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## jsimonkeller (May 15, 2018)

DANTM said:


> Hi jsimonkeller,
> I am about to get my ES34C and Vintage Air system charged on Monday. I have it hooked up as you mentioned and simply used a relay to change the +12V coming from the Trinary Switch to a Ground input. This is hard to test until the system is pressurized as the Trinary switch shouldnt activate until it sees some kind of pressure. After I provided a ground signal, the compressor worked. Now, the real question is at what speed to run the compressor via the PWM signal, and of course if all my crimps will hold the pressure!


Thank you for that response. I was feeling good about my hypothesis, but having you confirm it makes me feel a lot better. I am also wondering at what speed to run the PWM signal, but I also wondered if I can tap into the control harness for the Restomod (similar to Vintage Air) and have the signal adjust as I move the lever to colder air. I may be misunderstanding the purpose of the compressor motor speed, but assumed you want it running harder for colder air. 

I am using an old Fisker Karma coolant heater to provide the heat for the car and it is PWM as well and in my dream world, moving the temp lever toward hot would kick up the coolant heater PWM % duty and when I moved it to the middle it would be off and when I moved it to the colder side the AC compressor would kick up its duty cycle. Am I crazy?


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## jsimonkeller (May 15, 2018)

DANTM said:


> Hi jsimonkeller,
> I am about to get my ES34C and Vintage Air system charged on Monday. I have it hooked up as you mentioned and simply used a relay to change the +12V coming from the Trinary Switch to a Ground input. This is hard to test until the system is pressurized as the Trinary switch shouldnt activate until it sees some kind of pressure. After I provided a ground signal, the compressor worked. Now, the real question is at what speed to run the compressor via the PWM signal, and of course if all my crimps will hold the pressure!


With my Restomod system, which is similar to Dan's Vintage Air systems, I am using 0-5V slide potentiometers to mimic the effect of the sliders on the HVAC controls for Temp, Mode and Fan Speed. I was wondering if I could use a similar potentiometer for the compressor, so when I slide the potentiometer to colder temp, an interim device converts the 0-5 voltage output to a PWM signal, so the compressor motor adjusts as needed.

I found this on Amazon, but the PWM frequency is 2kHz to 20kHz, which is outside the range the compressor is looking for. Wondered if you had any thoughts about this.


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## DANTM (Feb 4, 2019)

jsimonkeller said:


> With my Restomod system, which is similar to Dan's Vintage Air systems, I am using 0-5V slide potentiometers to mimic the effect of the sliders on the HVAC controls for Temp, Mode and Fan Speed. I was wondering if I could use a similar potentiometer for the compressor, so when I slide the potentiometer to colder temp, an interim device converts the 0-5 voltage output to a PWM signal, so the compressor motor adjusts as needed.
> 
> I found this on Amazon, but the PWM frequency is 2kHz to 20kHz, which is outside the range the compressor is looking for. Wondered if you had any thoughts about this.
> View attachment 123571


Not sure why you need the compressor to constantly change speed. On an ICE motor it changes with respect to motor RPM and as long as it is set at a high enough RPM it should reach pressure as needed. . Raising the RPM just makes it reach that pressure sooner and you may notice introduces more vibration. My tesla compressor is way too loud even when mounted with rubber isolation mounts at 80% speed. I just set it at about 40% and it's duty cycle is fine (not on all the time) and is quiet. The system is pretty simple but i only desire an A/C system that is on or off, not trying to re-create an automatic, 2 zone, self adjusting climate control like in my Audi. I already have too many wires behind my dash!


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## jsimonkeller (May 15, 2018)

DANTM said:


> Not sure why you need the compressor to constantly change speed. On an ICE motor it changes with respect to motor RPM and as long as it is set at a high enough RPM it should reach pressure as needed. . Raising the RPM just makes it reach that pressure sooner and you may notice introduces more vibration. My tesla compressor is way too loud even when mounted with rubber isolation mounts at 80% speed. I just set it at about 40% and it's duty cycle is fine (not on all the time) and is quiet. The system is pretty simple but i only desire an A/C system that is on or off, not trying to re-create an automatic, 2 zone, self adjusting climate control like in my Audi. I already have too many wires behind my dash!


Dan, thanks for the quick response. I appreciate that insight and I guess I was overthinking it. I will try it your way and see how it goes. I agree with the wires comment. I am drowning in a sea of wiring!!! I guess the nice thing about what we are doing is that we can always tweak and experiment until we find what we are looking for. I hope I can control my noise and vibration sounds as well as you have.

Any other tips to report after firing up your system? Trinary switch working as it should?


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## DANTM (Feb 4, 2019)

jsimonkeller said:


> Dan, thanks for the quick response. I appreciate that insight and I guess I was overthinking it. I will try it your way and see how it goes. I agree with the wires comment. I am drowning in a sea of wiring!!! I guess the nice thing about what we are doing is that we can always tweak and experiment until we find what we are looking for. I hope I can control my noise and vibration sounds as well as you have.
> 
> Any other tips to report after firing up your system? Trinary switch working as it should?


Jsimonkeller, My system is working quite well. Other than the vibration issues, the trinary seems to be controlling everything as necessary, only it doesn't run the elec fan long. The fan stops shortly after the compressor shuts down in the cycle. I recommend installing a manual fan switch to trigger the radiator fan or just trigger the fan to run constantly from the A/C thermostat control. The condenser gets pretty hot and is in front of my radiator which cools my motor/inverter coolant so that probably needs a little more help to dissipate heat to the air rather than into my elec motor!


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## jsimonkeller (May 15, 2018)

DANTM said:


> Jsimonkeller, My system is working quite well. Other than the vibration issues, the trinary seems to be controlling everything as necessary, only it doesn't run the elec fan long. The fan stops shortly after the compressor shuts down in the cycle. I recommend installing a manual fan switch to trigger the radiator fan or just trigger the fan to run constantly from the A/C thermostat control. The condenser gets pretty hot and is in front of my radiator which cools my motor/inverter coolant so that probably needs a little more help to dissipate heat to the air rather than into my elec motor!


Dan, thanks for that tip. I am wiring up the trinary switch this weekend, so I will make sure to add the wire to the manual fan switch. I saw that option in the instructions for the relay hookup.

One other question and I apologize for the simplicity of it, but when you turn on the ignition, is the AC condenser basically running all the time at 40% duty cycle until the trinary switch shuts it down or does the compressor have any other trigger to turn it on, since it is not wired into the HVAC controls. Again, I am sure this should be clear to me, but sometimes I lose sight of the trees for the forest. Thanks for the continued assistance.


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## DANTM (Feb 4, 2019)

jsimonkeller said:


> Dan, thanks for that tip. I am wiring up the trinary switch this weekend, so I will make sure to add the wire to the manual fan switch. I saw that option in the instructions for the relay hookup.
> 
> One other question and I apologize for the simplicity of it, but when you turn on the ignition, is the AC condenser basically running all the time at 40% duty cycle until the trinary switch shuts it down or does the compressor have any other trigger to turn it on, since it is not wired into the HVAC controls. Again, I am sure this should be clear to me, but sometimes I lose sight of the trees for the forest. Thanks for the continued assistance.


My system works like this: Nothing happens when I turn on ignition. When I turn on the blower (air handler) Fan control knob of the Vintage Air controls, the A/C knob sees 12v but sends nothing to the trinary yet. When I twist the thermostat knob to the right, it signals the trinary switch to control the compressor sending 12v to the compressor as needed. Only when the compressor is switched on (goes to ground via a relay triggered by the 12v sig from trinary) it uses the PWM signal from the signal generator module that I power from the air handler fan switch so that it is on whenever the system is on. 
Hope this helps.


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## DANTM (Feb 4, 2019)

DANTM said:


> My system works like this: Nothing happens when I turn on ignition. When I turn on the blower (air handler) Fan control knob of the Vintage Air controls, the A/C knob sees 12v but sends nothing to the trinary yet. When I twist the thermostat knob to the right, it signals the trinary switch to control the compressor sending 12v to the compressor as needed. Only when the compressor is switched on (goes to ground via a relay triggered by the 12v sig from trinary) it uses the PWM signal from the signal generator module that I power from the air handler fan switch so that it is on whenever the system is on.
> Hope this helps.


"does the compressor have any other trigger to turn it on" - The compressor is triggered by the on/off wire, in this case on being ground, off being a lifted ground. Sending the compressor a PWM signal constantly is fine.


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## alexbeatle (Jul 28, 2020)

Hello folks.
Has anybody been able to figure out the CAN version of the compressor?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

^ ?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Anyone know if the Tesla 1028398000-00 AC compressor is CAN or PWM?


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

The 1028398-00- (E, F or J as far as I know) is the HVCC ESC33N.
Mostly used on model year 2015 / 2016
It’s CAN controlled.


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## DANTM (Feb 4, 2019)

Using Tesla thermal management system parts - EVcreate


Use Tesla parts in your electric car conversion to reduce costs and increase quality. Learn how to reuse Tesla thermal management system parts in your build.




www.evcreate.nl




About 3/4 of the way down this page says CAN Control.


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## DANTM (Feb 4, 2019)

That was weird


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Does the 34C require any compressor oil added before charging the system with refrigerant?


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## DANTM (Feb 4, 2019)

remy_martian said:


> Does the 34C require any compressor oil added before charging the system with refrigerant?


The system will need oil but would need a special non-conductive type.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

What and how much?


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## 57Chevy (Jan 31, 2020)

remy_martian said:


> What and how much?


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## alexbeatle (Jul 28, 2020)

Hello, folks. 
Did you need refill the compressor with oil? According to Denso, compressors need to be flushed for lube oil and refilled....https://www.denso-am.eu/products/automotive-aftermarket/ac-thermal/ac-compressors/practical-tip-on-compressor-oil/


Any good instructions\suggestions on how to do it?


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## alexbeatle (Jul 28, 2020)

Tesla compressor is Denso ES34c. Anybody knows how Denso ESA34c is different?


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## dlud (Jul 19, 2021)

DANTM said:


> "does the compressor have any other trigger to turn it on" - The compressor is triggered by the on/off wire, in this case on being ground, off being a lifted ground. Sending the compressor a PWM signal constantly is fine.


On the hv side did you wire directly to the battery pack? Or did you use a contactor?


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## Nmstec (4 mo ago)

Just realized if all you need for gen 1 is pwm signal, my power steering controller has two generic outputs, with configurable frequency and PWM. I can rewrite the sw to control it. Has dual canbus for input, pressure, temp and analog inputs. Pretty much dead perfect for this application if I write fw for it. I can also work on the can protocol for the newer compressor, but gotta source one to start with it.


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