# White Zombie Performance Build



## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

If you want to match the Zombie, you certainly can't have too much motor.

The controller would have to be the Zilla 2K, or maybe a Soliton Shiva.

Lead isn't even an option. You'll need lithium, and lots of it!

I think the most important factor in any build is the budget. Do you have one? Hopefully a large one?


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

Ziggythewiz said:


> If you want to match the Zombie, you certainly can't have too much motor.
> 
> The controller would have to be the Zilla 2K, or maybe a Soliton Shiva.
> 
> ...


Well the donor vehicle cost $150 and needs about $500 more or less in work. So my budget is $10k over time. I do believe that Lithium is the way to go, but even with 1700 lbs of lead acid battery and 1000 lbs of car w/motor and other parts I'm at say 2700 lbs. So a sacrifice in performance in range and 0 - 60 would be fine, lets say 40 mile range (use the generator to extend (or charge) a few extra miles if needed) and 0 - 60 in under 5 seconds? Or go for it and spend the $ on lithium? Are my motor choices off? I figure aim high and make compromises, so nothing is set in stone. No transmission, so less parts to worry about for breaking and weight savings. Thanks!


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## rwaudio (May 22, 2008)

Tedktis said:


> Well the donor vehicle cost $150 and needs about $500 more or less in work. So my budget is $10k over time. I do believe that Lithium is the way to go, but even with 1700 lbs of lead acid battery and 1000 lbs of car w/motor and other parts I'm at say 2700 lbs. So a sacrifice in performance in range and 0 - 60 would be fine, lets say 40 mile range (use the generator to extend (or charge) a few extra miles if needed) and 0 - 60 in under 5 seconds? Or go for it and spend the $ on lithium? Are my motor choices off? I figure aim high and make compromises, so nothing is set in stone. No transmission, so less parts to worry about for breaking and weight savings. Thanks!


I would start the design around lithium, A123 20ah cells would be good in this application. My car will have around 50 mile range and the pack will only weigh 350lbs including the box and all connections. My car is heavier but I should still be able to get ~5 second 0-60. (my pack cost is just over 7 grand)

Just think what you could do with that kind of power in a 1400lb car instead of a 2700lb car!


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## Jimdear2 (Oct 12, 2008)

Tedktis,

I can tell you from past experience in tractor pulling and drag racing that the 10 bolt most likely won't do the job for very long. You are describing a build with some SERIOUS torque. Look into a big Dana or a 12 bolt or a beefed Ford 9 inch. Best bet is to talk to some of the custom differential shops.

My opinion is lithium is your only choice for the kW (HP) you need for the times you want and the distance you describe. I can also suggest that you make battery purchase your LAST decision. Decide on the voltage and current (kW) you will need and build the car around that. Wait until the car is pretty much done before you drop the big bucks into the build. You will find, like me and Ron (Lithumaniac) and Crodriver and all the other high performance builders, that battery tech will pass you by in one year. Batteries are EXPENSIVE, and last years wonder battery just won't cut it against the new stuff.

Your motor and controller choices are a bit more limited, There are only a couple of choices controller available to handle that kind of power and each has it's pluses and minuses. I would suggest that you also look into a rebuilt GE for the 13 inch. My 13 inch motor weighs about 300 pounds I would guess that two 9 inch would be close to that.

Good luck.
Jim


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

You need to study the Plasma Boy Racing web site to see the kind of power the Zombie has installed and the resulting performance. Less amps would be less power and less performance. Less voltage would be less power and less performance. What you are proposing isn't lighter than the Zombie so it won't save your need for power. 

With the Zombie just shy of 2700 lb. and packing 60, 16 amp hour Genesis sealed lead acid batteries it ran in the high 11's down the quarter mile for a year and then age started catching up with the pack and it slipped back into the 12's. That is $6000 worth of lead for perhaps a 30 mile range for a couple years. 

You will need a Manzanita Micro Zilla Z2k-EHV or a Soliton Shiva controller for the kind of performance you are proposing. You need to be able to put a lot of amps to the ground with a high voltage pack. It will require the best lead acid has to offer or high power lithium cells. Golf cart batteries, or even CALB LiFePO4 cells, won't get you the kind of screaming performance you are proposing.


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

Jimdear2 said:


> Tedktis,
> 
> I can tell you from past experience in tractor pulling and drag racing that the 10 bolt most likely won't do the job for very long. You are describing a build with some SERIOUS torque. Look into a big Dana or a 12 bolt or a beefed Ford 9 inch. Best bet is to talk to some of the custom differential shops.
> 
> ...


 
Yes I agree, the GM 8.5" will not last very long at the strip and eventually I will go with a 9". But, I have the axle sitting here for free right now. The battery will be last item I buy of course. I will look into the rebuilt GE 13". So 300 lbs for that then, okay.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

Jimdear2 said:


> Tedktis,
> 
> I can tell you from past experience in tractor pulling and drag racing that the 10 bolt most likely won't do the job for very long. You are describing a build with some SERIOUS torque. Look into a big Dana or a 12 bolt or a beefed Ford 9 inch. Best bet is to talk to some of the custom differential shops.
> 
> ...


+1 lots of good points.
(1) Zombie uses a custom dutchman motorsports rear-end, I would look into that
(2) get batteries last, great idea actually. it may take you longer than you think to get the car completed enough where batteries are holding you back, and even then you can always get some cheap Lead Acids to test the car on while you're waiting for your lithium shipment.

I would stick to dual motors, the smaller motors like the white zombie uses are impulse9's.

The graph shows that with ~320V (160V to each motor) the Impulse9 can spin up to 5500rpm and still draw 1000A!

Per another chart, WZ has about 1100ftlbs of torque total from 2000A through each Impulse9. That breaks down to 550ftlbs per motor and then bad math could break that down further to 2000A = 550ftlbs then 1000A = 225ftlbs.
So thats 225ftlbs @ 1000A * 2motors = 550ftlbs @ 1000A @ 5500rpm = 578hp @ 5500rpm

So far I have not seen that kind of curve form a large single DC motor.


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

rwaudio said:


> I would start the design around lithium, A123 20ah cells would be good in this application. My car will have around 50 mile range and the pack will only weigh 350lbs including the box and all connections. My car is heavier but I should still be able to get ~5 second 0-60. (my pack cost is just over 7 grand)
> 
> Just think what you could do with that kind of power in a 1400lb car instead of a 2700lb car!


 
True, that would be insane! But I'm not looking to go that extreme and spend that much (although I am tempted to) and I am fine with heavier battery pack. I was shooting for high expectations with the understanding that I would have to make compromises. But, the next battery pack may be what you are suggesting. That will be years from now and will hopefully exceed my expectations after I get this build under my belt. Thanks for the info, I didn't realize they could be that light-weight.


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

EVfun said:


> You need to study the Plasma Boy Racing web site to see the kind of power the Zombie has installed and the resulting performance. Less amps would be less power and less performance. Less voltage would be less power and less performance. What you are proposing isn't lighter than the Zombie so it won't save your need for power.
> 
> With the Zombie just shy of 2700 lb. and packing 60, 16 amp hour Genesis sealed lead acid batteries it ran in the high 11's down the quarter mile for a year and then age started catching up with the pack and it slipped back into the 12's. That is $6000 worth of lead for perhaps a 30 mile range for a couple years.
> 
> You will need a Manzanita Micro Zilla Z2k-EHV or a Soliton Shiva controller for the kind of performance you are proposing. You need to be able to put a lot of amps to the ground with a high voltage pack. It will require the best lead acid has to offer or high power lithium cells. Golf cart batteries, or even CALB LiFePO4 cells, won't get you the kind of screaming performance you are proposing.


 
I'm not concerned with 1/4 mile times and don't pretend to be doing many runs, save a few to get times. I just want the *capability* of doing 0-60 real quick and still retain highway speed for commuting. So even if the car could do it under 4 or 5 seconds I would like to drive it daily and program/build it to do say 5 - 6 second 0 - 60 runs. I should have clarified that a bit more in the begining. I am wondering if a Warp9 with high end lithiums may be the way to get the "real world" performance/ 40 mile range? I can lighten the chassis a lot more, maybe shave 200 lbs max by going to aluminum, but that raises budget costs. Looks like I will need to go over budget with the Z2k controller. I was hoping weight reduction was going to work as a greater advantage. This is great input, so I can go back to the drawing board. Keep it coming. Appreciate you all!


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

Bowser330 said:


> +1 lots of good points.
> (1) Zombie uses a custom dutchman motorsports rear-end, I would look into that
> (2) get batteries last, great idea actually. it may take you longer than you think to get the car completed enough where batteries are holding you back, and even then you can always get some cheap Lead Acids to test the car on while you're waiting for your lithium shipment.
> 
> ...


That's interesting. So, go with 2 Impulse 9s, Zilla 2k, temporarily run lead acid and in due time purchse high end lithium when price drops. You don't recommend the Kostov dual set-up?


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

As much as I prefer Kostovs, if they have interpoles, they won't be able to absorb as much abuse as a modded impulse. Now if we were talking 400 to 500 motor Volts, it might be a different story, but I know of no experiments that way.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

Tedktis said:


> True, that would be insane! But I'm not looking to go that extreme and spend that much (although I am tempted to) and I am fine with heavier battery pack. I was shooting for high expectations with the understanding that I would have to make compromises. But, the next battery pack may be what you are suggesting. That will be years from now and will hopefully exceed my expectations after I get this build under my belt. Thanks for the info, I didn't realize they could be that light-weight.


http://www.onesourcebatteries.com/gexe0712vo16.html
Here is a source to the batteries the WZ was using before it went lithium...
158$ each, but you could negotiate for a bulk order discount, maybe 10% off, 143$ each. The WZ uses 60 of them 30 in series and 2 in parallel, 360V & 32AH. 

plasmaboy website says each can deliver 750A so 1500A with 2 in parallel.
60 batteries = 852lbs according to the website.
11.5kwh total, so with discharging to only 70%, that's now 8kwh, if your lightweight car gets 200wh/mile then you could go 40 miles per charge.
60 batteries * 143$ = 8,580$

You might want to rethink going to lead if RW's lithium pack only cost 7K$ and is 500lbs lighter and has more range. EDIT* I didnt see your latest post, yes the best deal is to go with the A123 20AH cells, they are super cheap for the power & capacity they have. You can get 500$ worth of lead to test the car (slowly haha) while you wait for the lithium. But the idea is to wait to buy the lithium as technology continues to improve quickly and prices are trending downward...


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

piotrsko said:


> As much as I prefer Kostovs, if they have interpoles, they won't be able to absorb as much abuse as a modded impulse. Now if we were talking 400 to 500 motor Volts, it might be a different story, but I know of no experiments that way.


According to Plamen (Kostov Motors) and George (Netgain) the biggest problem with DC motors is not higher voltage handling ability its the RPM. DC motors cannot physically spin much faster than they are now due to the centrifugal forces pulling apart the armature.

IF only there was a way to reduce the rpm/volt! We need the higher voltage to be able to draw more current at a higher rpm, but we don't want to the rpm to get too high or the motor explodes, so the answer is to reduce the rpm per volt as much as you can until the rpm and voltage are both difficult variables.

IF that is possible then we should be able to see, 400V or 500V DC interpoled motors comfortably spinning up to 6000rpm while drawing maximum current.
According to EVsource an 11" interpoled DC motor @ 1400A = 415ftlbs
Now imagine if that 1400A was drawn at the 6000rpm *redline*, that would equal 474hp. From a single motor with a beautiful flat long torque curve!
http://www.evsource.com/tls_warp11HV.php


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

Bowser330 said:


> http://www.onesourcebatteries.com/gexe0712vo16.html
> Here is a source to the batteries the WZ was using before it went lithium...
> 158$ each, but you could negotiate for a bulk order discount, maybe 10% off, 143$ each. The WZ uses 60 of them 30 in series and 2 in parallel, 360V & 32AH.
> 
> ...


Good point.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Ted

You should plan on light - less is more!

I am planning on $6000 and 500Kg

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...-dubious-device-44370p2.html?highlight=duncan

Presently awaiting the roll cage - the sports car club changed the roll cage specs and it has cost me 3 months!

If I was not such a coward and I had a lighter motor I think 350Kg is doable


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

Duncan said:


> Hi Ted
> 
> You should plan on light - less is more!
> 
> ...


 
Great build! Yes, keeping it light is what I was going for too. I am going to read through the rest of your posts when I have time. So you are using contactors for reverse? No transmission? I guess I should read thru before asking....lol. Thanks!


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

rwaudio said:


> I would start the design around lithium, A123 20ah cells would be good in this application. My car will have around 50 mile range and the pack will only weigh 350lbs including the box and all connections. My car is heavier but I should still be able to get ~5 second 0-60. (my pack cost is just over 7 grand)
> 
> Just think what you could do with that kind of power in a 1400lb car instead of a 2700lb car!


Great build! Enjoyed the videos on your page. More tech stuff to learn  I am going to research the A123 20ah cells. If your figures are accurate, and you can get 50 mile range and 5 second 0-60, I will probably be where I want to be with a lighter vehicle using a similar setup. I am wondering about installing a transmission, although I would rather not. What made you go with a larger motor instead of dual 9" ?

On another note what are thoughts on a Soliton 1? I would probably need 2, but I heard they are better and less install hassle then a Zilla.


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## drgrieve (Apr 14, 2011)

In regards to controller choice I'm in the same boat, two Soliton 1's for dual motor or 1 Zilla 2K.

Or delay project for another 6-12 months to save for Shiva?

Would be nice if Evnetics made a 1500 to 2000 amp controller.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Bowser330 said:


> According to Plamen (Kostov Motors) and George (Netgain) the biggest problem with DC motors is not higher voltage handling ability its the RPM. DC motors cannot physically spin much faster than they are now due to the centrifugal forces pulling apart the armature.
> 
> IF only there was a way to reduce the rpm/volt! We need the higher voltage to be able to draw more current at a higher rpm, but we don't want to the rpm to get too high or the motor explodes, so the answer is to reduce the rpm per volt as much as you can until the rpm and voltage are both difficult variables.
> 
> ...



Ok, what happens if we limit rpm by some artificial/external means. Does this mean we can now do that 1400 amps at 400V? Or alternatively, can the vehicle be geared highly and have enough traction to not exceed the rpm limit? Another possibility would be, say, a 6 ft long motor about 9 inches in diameter.


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

drgrieve said:


> In regards to controller choice I'm in the same boat, two Soliton 1's for dual motor or 1 Zilla 2K.
> 
> Or delay project for another 6-12 months to save for Shiva?
> 
> Would be nice if Evnetics made a 1500 to 2000 amp controller.


 
What's your build?


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

I have a gasser Camaro with that axle. About every 60k miles I have to have the bearings changed -- it would have been cheaper to buy a full price Ford 9 inch (modified to be a bolt in to the Camaro) by now. I have also had to replace the C-clips and the axles (admittedly it has seen hard autocross and road racing track use, but most cars don't have this trouble). Something else to consider is the C-clips are not legal on cars above a certain E.T. -- if something breaks nothing restrains the axle and it can pull right out. You don't want that to be your "will not last very long!"

For something as fast as you are talking about, for safety's sake I would go straight to the Ford 9 inch (plus you are going to have to eventually repair or replace the GM axle anyways, might as well do it now). You can also get a bigger range of rear end ratios for the Ford. If you only want 70 mph, then a lower gear ratio is free acceleration and easier on the electric motor.


Tedktis said:


> Yes I agree, the GM 8.5" will not last very long at the strip and eventually I will go with a 9". But, I have the axle sitting here for free right now. The battery will be last item I buy of course. I will look into the rebuilt GE 13". So 300 lbs for that then, okay.


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## drgrieve (Apr 14, 2011)

Tedktis said:


> What's your build?


Just in planning mode.

Donor: BMW 320Ci Auto (2001-03) http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/bmw-320ci-2003-11908304?sort=~Price&silo=Stock&cr=2&eapi=2&vertical=Car&__N=1216%204294729572%201282%204294967079%204294967051&page=1

Motor: Kostov Dual K11 400v http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?product=MOT-KOS-R20D

Transmission: Direct drive. Rear donor diff ratio is 3.46. Have OEM options of 3.96 and 4.44 if need more gearing.

Controller: ?

Batteries: Depending on controller but 28 to 32kwH of A123 20ah. 5p100s if using dual solition 1.

Aim to track and run 1/4 miles but also daily drive. Suspension and brake upgrades after conversion is running and I start to turn the power up.

My inlaws are mad racing nuts with cars running over 600 rwhp. So the bar is raised pretty high.


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

DavidDymaxion said:


> I have a gasser Camaro with that axle. About every 60k miles I have to have the bearings changed -- it would have been cheaper to buy a full price Ford 9 inch (modified to be a bolt in to the Camaro) by now. I have also had to replace the C-clips and the axles (admittedly it has seen hard autocross and road racing track use, but most cars don't have this trouble). Something else to consider is the C-clips are not legal on cars above a certain E.T. -- if something breaks nothing restrains the axle and it can pull right out. You don't want that to be your "will not last very long!"
> 
> For something as fast as you are talking about, for safety's sake I would go straight to the Ford 9 inch (plus you are going to have to eventually repair or replace the GM axle anyways, might as well do it now). You can also get a bigger range of rear end ratios for the Ford. If you only want 70 mph, then a lower gear ratio is free acceleration and easier on the electric motor.


Yeah, I am reconsidering everything after all the educational input. I have an LS1 powered camaro and thank God the axle hasn't gone on it. Putting a Ford 9" would cost too much in modifications, so I would go with a specific axle. Since it still handles the abuse I have not changed it. But, it is an auto and no drag tires. I may just go with a less powerful set-up or maybe even AC motor then work my way into more power over the next few years. I just want the quickest acceleration I can get without going to overboard and at least 50 mile range that I could drive daily. Then eventually just let loose and put something extereme.


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## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

If you are building a daily driver I'd copy the blue meanie (johns other car) not the zombie. The blue meanie helped shape some of my choices.


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

Thaniel said:


> If you are building a daily driver I'd copy the blue meanie (johns other car) not the zombie. The blue meanie helped shape some of my choices.


 
Yes, thanks. I did check out Blue Meanie while I was researching, but I will check it out again. I usually have his site up in one of my tabs for inspiration.


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## adamj12b (May 4, 2009)

After reading through your thread, I thought I would throw my 2 cents in.

You haven't mentioned what the vehicle you plan to convert is yet. It would be good to see what you plan to work with. It sounds VERY small, could you even fit the same lead pack in it that Zombie was running? You might only be able to fit lithium. 

With the light weight of the vehicle, it sounds like a single Warp11HV might be the motor you want. They already make this motor in a transwarp style too. You would just need to mount the motor and connect the drive shaft to the slip yoke. The motor is rated at 288V nominal. Crodriver uses a modified version to achieve 3.4 second 0-60. 

There isnt much choice for controllers in the power range your looking for. pretty much your only option is the Z2k. The Shiva is only made in batch's and isnt something you can just buy off the shelve. I know originally they wanted to build 25, but I think I remember reading something saying they only made 9. Plus, Its $9500 for the prototype price, and I believe this has gone up since its no long in prototype stage. 

Another option would be dual 9" motors and dual Soliton 1 controllers. 


-Adam


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

adamj12b said:


> ...There isnt much choice for controllers in the power range your looking for. pretty much your only option is the Z2k. The Shiva is only made in batch's and isnt something you can just buy off the shelve. I know originally they wanted to build 25, but I think I remember reading something saying they only made 9. Plus, Its $9500 for the prototype price, and I believe this has gone up since its no long in prototype stage. ...


A few corrections: the pre-order price for a Shiva was $7500 and _now_ it is $9500. We have sold 6 Shivas so far, not 9, though 3 other people are kicking the tires, so to speak. We cancelled the plan to build a single batch of 25 Shivas both because only one person - DIYguy here - paid for one in full during the prototyping period and because the same components are used to build Juniors, and since we won't be getting another shipment of IGBT modules until late May to mid-June, we don't want to tie up inventory in one product or the other until then.

That said, a Shiva is *way overkill* for this project anyway. A single Soliton1 fed with a 300-340V*/800-1000A peak ampacity pack and driving two 8" or 9" motors, or, perhaps, a single WarP-11HV, would be more than enough to achieve the stated goals in an EV weighing ~2400# (ie - around 300hp is needed to do 0-60 in 4 seconds).

I have noticed over the last few years that people who have never experienced a performance-oriented EV - more specifically, one in which the power capability of the battery pack, controller and motor are all well-matched (such as Rebirth Auto's Porsche 911) - tend to overestimate the amount of controller current they will need to achieve their acceleration goals. Yes, more current always gives you more torque - at least when starting from 0rpm - but more current also requires more voltage per RPM. In one of those weird-but-true twists you wouldn't guess unless you actually felt it for yourself, an EV with a 300V pack and a 1000A controller tends to have a much better driving feel than a 150V pack and a 2000A controller, though the total power may be the same in both cases.

* - I always refer to actual voltage, not nominal, as nominal voltage is meaningless unless the cell chemistry and charging voltage is also specified.


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

adamj12b said:


> After reading through your thread, I thought I would throw my 2 cents in.
> 
> You haven't mentioned what the vehicle you plan to convert is yet. It would be good to see what you plan to work with. It sounds VERY small, could you even fit the same lead pack in it that Zombie was running? You might only be able to fit lithium.
> 
> ...


I am glad you put your 2 cents in! Your post was what I was leaning toward (Warp11 or 2 Kostov 9" to driveshaft or transaxle). The vehicle is just a modified sand rail (dune buggy). I will post pics. The rear was modified to accomodate a larger axle. We measured where we would put the motor (front) and how the pan would be modified for custom driveshaft (or maybe find the correct length). Most of the batteries would fill the rear, above the axle with HD suspension. Components that are smaller would be installed around other parts of the vehicle. I will be going with Lithiums most likely. If Crodriver is getting a 0-60 under 4 seconds with mods and a heavier weight vehicle, I would presume to get to 0 at 4 - 5 seconds, that would be great. we were also considering using aluminum instead of the current steel set-up, but the cost would be to high and i don't want to spend anymore time with soaring gas prices. Thanks!


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

Tesseract said:


> A few corrections: the pre-order price for a Shiva was $7500 and _now_ it is $9500. We have sold 6 Shivas so far, not 9, though 3 other people are kicking the tires, so to speak. We cancelled the plan to build a single batch of 25 Shivas both because only one person - DIYguy here - paid for one in full during the prototyping period and because the same components are used to build Juniors, and since we won't be getting another shipment of IGBT modules until late May to mid-June, we don't want to tie up inventory in one product or the other until then.
> 
> That said, a Shiva is *way overkill* for this project anyway. A single Soliton1 fed with a 300-340V*/800-1000A peak ampacity pack and driving two 8" or 9" motors, or, perhaps, a single WarP-11HV, would be more than enough to achieve the stated goals in an EV weighing ~2400# (ie - around 300hp is needed to do 0-60 in 4 seconds).
> 
> ...


Beautiful! Soliton 1 and a Warp11 or dual Warp9 set-up! I think the dual 9s may be too long. How about lending me a Shiva? LOL. So why not a Zilla 1k? Oh and I am selling the GM 10 bolt axle and looking for a Ford 9". I could also throw the VW transaxle back in place and use the transmission (although I'd rather not) and a single 9" or 11" with Soliton or Zilla 1k and Lithium. I'd have to modifie the transmission. I think we are getting some where.... so thoughts so far? Pics coming. I'm wanting to place order on motor and controller soon, while we sand and paint the chassis and install lights, new brakes (disc), gauges etc.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

Tesseract said:


> In one of those weird-but-true twists you wouldn't guess unless you actually felt it for yourself, an EV with a 300V pack and a 1000A controller tends to have a much better driving feel than a 150V pack and a 2000A controller, though the total power may be the same in both cases.


Of course you know the first deranged thought running through the head of an American electron rodder is how to get 2000 amps out of the 300 volt pack.

(internal) resistance is futile


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## Tedktis (Jan 20, 2012)

Lol.


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