# help needed ,confused!



## wsv3424 (Apr 3, 2011)

hey folks ,not sure where to write about whats going on w/my 97 nissan ev w/144vdc200ah system w/quick charger ,warp 9 ,motor controller and unsure of the name brand of accelerator potentiometer.
I have no clue to my tech issue currently.
had no issues at all and was attempting to drive the ev over to re-install ac in it when I had no juice after always seeing "cc" and assuming all was fine . Then checking see no water at all,dry cells throughout . filled w/dist and back on the charger and overnite back to "cc" so assumed I would be alright and no power to do anything movement wise other than to jerk a bit and if I keep pressing the accelerator my meter in cab goes way up and I turn it off .
today same thing shows "cc" but no power to move just jerks a bit .
WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST ?
have I damaged the potentiometer or why am I experiencing this ?
checked cells yesterday to find 6.7 v all throughout the pack .
I recall yesterday a loud pop when I kept trying to go but dont see anything .
should the charger get warm/hot during charge? I wonder if I need to take it [tow] somewhere, I'm in dallas .
thought I knew a bit about this but alas


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

What kind of batteries do you have? Do you have a Voltmeter on the pack?

You should have a good idea of the total voltage before and after a charge, which should clue you in if there's an issue.

As for the quickcharger, yes, it gets very hot while charging. What profile do you have it set to? One of the biggest faults in the quickcharger design is that there are several error conditions where it turns off and drops to CC.

If you dried all your batteries out, they may be toast. Where'd you get them?


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## wsv3424 (Apr 3, 2011)

sure appreciate the fast reply,what a godsend this forum is !
they are us battery xc2000 red tops 6vdc200ah x 24.
has a meter but if memory serves it shows a very high number when I attempt to start..maybe 7-800.
I am searching for the manual on the meter so I can know what I'll be looking at ,what the numbers relate to .
This ev was awesome ,could go 50-60 miles driving normal speeds but only have been able to drive a short distance bringing it home from the drop off when I got it from Ken in ohio since the ac had been removed and it was 115 here last summer and I don't do over 100 to well so it sat on tricle and showed "cc" so I was stoked assuming all's well when actually I guess the electrolyte was being burned up as all were totally dry when I went to take it for the ac install last friday,bummed for sure since I sold my ice tacoma just recently and had decided to use the ev from the day it sold forward and now bang upside the head.
It set to profile F3 . When I charged yesterday after trying to drive it and same readout "cc" . When they dried out and were filled and charged again does the quick charger complete charge and then dis-charge if the ev is not driven ,works as a minder right ? I fail to see how I get 6.7 v each cell and the only detrimental noise ever has been the pop[no idea what that was] I guess asking it to go when there may not have been a complete charge even tho it showed to be floating ,real confused for sure .Now it just jerks a bit and after the charger shows a much lower number til today when after the episode of jerks I put it back on and showed "cc" again .Would you take it off charge tonite ,let it sit and check the cells tomorrow morning or just tow to an ev shop where I might learn something cause obviously I am not up to par on troubleshooting it myself too well....still sitting,lol!! THANKS AGAIN ,I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP AND FOR THIS FORUM OF LIKE MINDED FOLKS MOVING TOWARD A GOAL WE CAN RESPECT AND ENJOY .LATER FRIENDS,
WILL


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## wsv3424 (Apr 3, 2011)

sure appreciate the fast reply,what a godsend this forum is !
they are us battery xc2000 red tops 6vdc200ah x 24.
has a meter but if memory serves it shows a very high number when I attempt to start..maybe 7-800.
I am searching for the manual on the meter so I can know what I'll be looking at ,what the numbers relate to .
This ev was awesome ,could go 50-60 miles driving normal speeds but only have been able to drive a short distance bringing it home from the drop off when I got it from Ken in ohio since the ac had been removed and it was 115 here last summer and I don't do over 100 to well so it sat on tricle and showed "cc" so I was stoked assuming all's well when actually I guess the electrolyte was being burned up as all were totally dry when I went to take it for the ac install last friday,bummed for sure since I sold my ice tacoma just recently and had decided to use the ev from the day it sold forward and now bang upside the head.
It set to profile F3 . When I charged yesterday after trying to drive it and same readout "cc" . When they dried out and were filled and charged again does the quick charger complete charge and then dis-charge if the ev is not driven ,works as a minder right ? I fail to see how I get 6.7 v each cell and the only detrimental noise ever has been the pop[no idea what that was] I guess asking it to go when there may not have been a complete charge even tho it showed to be floating ,real confused for sure .Now it just jerks a bit and after the charger shows a much lower number til today when after the episode of jerks I put it back on and showed "cc" again .Would you take it off charge tonite ,let it sit and check the cells tomorrow morning or just tow to an ev shop where I might learn something cause obviously I am not up to par on troubleshooting it myself too well....still sitting,lol!! THANKS AGAIN ,I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP AND FOR THIS FORUM OF LIKE MINDED FOLKS MOVING TOWARD A GOAL WE CAN RESPECT AND ENJOY .LATER FRIENDS,
WILL


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Obviously the meter is not setup properly if you get 7-800 on a 144V nominal system. You should be sitting around 165 fully charged.

How long was it sitting plugged in?

F3 is a gas and float mode, so it will act as a battery minder, but depends on the d value as well. To check that you can disconnect the charger circuit (on either end or in the middle if you have some disconnect) and plug it in. Press the button until it shows the F value (F3 you said) and then the d value.

I can imagine a scenario where if set to d0 or d2 it could boil the batteries to death if left in long term storage with a flakey power grid. If the power were to go out one or more times a day the charger would start a 3 hr gas cycle each time.

As for the jerkiness when trying to start...what controller do you have? Do you have a DVM to check voltage on the entire pack? Also you can check (with the car off) the values coming off the throttle pot for it's full range of motion.


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## wsv3424 (Apr 3, 2011)

Obviously the meter is not setup properly if you get 7-800 on a 144V nominal system. You should be sitting around 165 fully charged.
*where would I see this figure?

How long was it sitting plugged in?
since I was told to leave it plugged in any time not in use[builder/previous owner] I did ,all summer here w/temps up to 118 .I put box fans under the trucks bed area and in the front grill since 3 batts are in front ,so every time I opened the hood always had cc showing and w/my minimal ev experience and having numerous mc's all w/battery minders it stayed on all summer til it cooled off and now its going to be my only pick-up I knew to get ac back in soon and that's when this was found ,dry battery's and all.

F3 is a gas and float mode, so it will act as a battery minder, but depends on the d value as well. To check that you can disconnect the charger circuit (on either end or in the middle if you have some disconnect) and plug it in. Press the button until it shows the F value (F3 you said) and then the d value.
thanx, will do asap!
* meaning charge and dis-charge over and over and so if not programmed correctly this is the outcome ,drying the electrolyte out entirely even tho cc showed all the entire period til this .


As for the jerkiness when trying to start...what controller do you have? Do you have a DVM to check voltage on the entire pack? Also you can check (with the car off) the values coming off the throttle pot for it's full range of motion.
yes, have DVM ,checked yesterday and each cell shows approx. 6.7, but dont recall how long it had sat off charge
how/where would I check the values ,what should I see there ? what am I looking for and why would those have changed when no adjustments have been made at all since getting it last summer when it drove back home from picking it up from the shippers location ,just a few miles but enough to really get me excited about the future for conversions . I'm working w/some folks currently trying to get a school together in dallas to teach current mechanics familiar w/auto electronics this field of study so they'll be able to teach to students to start careers in this field as the ev becomes more known about . I really feel like the private sector ,little guys are to be the ones to carry the torch ,to bring conversions into the mainstream . If thru this a biz becomes available I'd like to involve my 40 year old son . The hardest worker on the planet 22 years same job at the top of the profession and he'll be a great teacher after he can get educated on ev's . Had thought about using this truck as a basis for advancing this idea going forward . well, nuff of dreams .
Really appreciate your help 
Guess I've got work to do now and have NO clue as to why and how this occured.
will


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## wsv3424 (Apr 3, 2011)

logi Systems controller 
HB 404 DC power /wattage meter by Ammex Depot
he wrote down 1000amp shunt 50mv along w/a password


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

(Typical) Chargers do not discharge batteries, but with lead the gassing cycle is performed when the batteries are essentially full. If you didn't have any power issues, it should not have been a problem. The charger would just float the batteries for months on end. I don't know if an endless float cycle can dry the batteries, it shouldn't if the batteries match the charger voltage. 

When I say check the pack voltage with DVM, I mean the entire pack, so you see what the controller sees, not just one at a time. I'm not familiar with your controller or meter, most controllers have a low voltage cutoff that could cause jerkyness if there is an infinite sag under load on one or more bad batteries. A typical meter just shows your voltage, or if it has several functions will cycle through them by pressing a button.


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