# Ready for crimping, Do I put Noalox inside lug?



## madderscience (Jun 28, 2008)

I assume noalox is an oxidization preventive coating.

I forget the name of the stuff I used (red liquid goo) but I did coat the inside of my lugs before crimping. So far (1+ years and 3200 miles) so good.

I used a hammer crimper and though the crimps are ugly, none have failed.

Making your cable slighty longer than necessary isn't a terrible idea.


----------



## O'Zeeke (Mar 9, 2008)

Hi Willit, I used noalox, filling the lug about 1/2 full and hammering away. Over 1000 miles, no hot spots or any problems so far


----------



## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

Definitely use NoAlOx, or similar. This will prolong the life of your crimped connections tremendously.


----------



## willitwork (Apr 9, 2008)

Thanks for the replies, I will fill lugs up half way then crimp away!!


----------



## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

I didn't use any oxidation preventer but stripped the cable and crimped the connectors right away then closed up the cable end with heatshrink.

I might kick myself later for not using any NOalox (didn't have any at the time). Now I rationalize that if the original cable covering kept that copper that clean and shiny for all the time since it was manufactured til the time I stripped it, the lack of any air/moisture/contaminants getting into the wires after the cable was crimped and heatshrinked would be pretty darn remote.

But putting NOalox on it certainly seems that it wouldn't hurt as an ounce or two of prevention would certainly seem to be worth a pound or two of cure...
---
On a side note, one interesting thing I've found is a difference in the charging times between using the crimp on terminal lugs connector that bolted on the top of the battery terminal compared to the crimp on automotive style battery terminal (that I whacked off the threaded bolt portion off so the insulation boots would fit properly).

















A freind of mine did a conversion at the same time as I and we both used the same brand and type of batteries as well as the same 120V/10A Quick Charger.

His charge time was always around 12 hrs and mine has never gone past 8 at the same charge setting.

I use a 20amp circuit with 10Gauge SO cord extension wire and he used a 12Gauge extension cord.

I'm thinking that the automotive style battery terminals I use and extension cord have less resistance compared to the threaded lug style on the battery terminals. My belief is that the automotive style terminal has more contact area than the smaller diameter threaded portion of the battery universal post.

My guess is that there's less resistance making it easier for the current to flow out of the batteries when driving and easier to push it back in recharging.

OBTW, I bought my automotive style terminals and some other supplies here and got a good price and fast, free shipping at this eBay store: 

http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz

---

I also used a hammer style crimper and recommend crimping toward the bottom end of the socket first so that the cable will be less likely to back out of the terminal when hammering. Because I used the automotive style, I had to make the cables pretty exact as having them too short or too long seems to feel like they would put a lot of stress on the battery terminals.

Less stress on the battery's terminals for longer/shorter cables is the only advantage I can see using the universal threaded style of battery post terminal connectors IMHO. 

If you do use the threaded terminals, get rid of the wing nut and go with a self locking nut so it won't loosen up easily.

Here are a few other tips:

-For cutting the cable to get a clean cut and for stripping the insulation off, I used a ratchet style cable cutter like the one shown here. I had bought it a few years ago to do commercial type electrical work. Maybe you can borrow or rent one somewhere. It sure made the job go a lot easier.










If you decide to go with socket style automotive battery terminals, make sure you get enough positive and negative ends to do the job (and maybe a spare or two of each for screw-ups or battery jumper cables-you know a jumper to skip over a battery that is gone bad in your pack in an emergency situation). Positive and negative battery posts/terminals are different sizes. 

-Do the long cables first like the motor cables/contactor cables because if you screw up, you can cut them down and still use one end for smaller cables.

-When doing cables for your control board or other penetration holes, make sure your holes are drilled big enough for the cables with the heatshrink/connectors/bent connectors on them to pass through.

-When crimping, I placed the crimper tool on the concrete floor and held the cable so the wire wouldn't back out of the socket once it was in the crimper. I held the cable with my and last three fingers, the back side of the crimper with my thumb, and used my index finger on the front side of the crimper to keep the cable in the socket and from rotating out of position and also to keep the crimper steady.

-Make sure you have your terminal boot on and heatshrink sleeve installed before doing the second end of each cable.

-Make sure the terminal angles are positioned/angled how you want them. If you have to twist the cables to line them up, they may put more stress on the battery posts/devices you're going to attach them to.

-Use a real hot air gun on the big cable heatshrink. My wifes 1850w hair-blower didn't get hot enough and using a propane torch isn't a good idea. A real hot air gun does a better job.

-Trying to pull up the boot over the heatshrink might be a little tough so using a little vaseline will make it slide up easier.

-Some cable ends need to be bend upwards to a 90 degree angle for things like the controller/shunt/motor cables. I put the socket terminal in a vise and bent them down by inserting the chuck end of a suitably-sized drill bit in the socket and used the twist end of the drill bit to bend the terminal down to the degree of bend needed.


----------



## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

tj4fa.... Fabulous details! Your comments echo instructions by KTA. Nolox should not be required between cable and lug as they are 'similar' and will not corrode. Heat shrink and tight crimp should prevent oxidation.

Very interesting to note your differences in charge times with different lugs; no other differences in how charger is connected? How abuot brand, capacity and age of batteries? I would be fascinated to know if it also affects your maximum output amps. KTA recommends the SAE auto lugs because of greater surface area and reduced chance of loosening... I'm sold on it, and about to start making cables, so the confirmation was timely....


----------



## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

Those KTA people must be pretty smart. 

I picked up a few tips from the EVA people on crimping the wires and then some from mistak...err...experience.

I'll have to check with my friend to see what size breaker and extension cord length and guage he had his charger connected to as compared to mine.


----------



## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

tj4fa said:


> Those KTA people must be pretty smart.



I dunno, but Ken has been doing EVs for like... 20 years or something. I still like to get group verification though!

d


----------



## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

tj4fa said:


> ...I've found is a difference in the charging times...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The reason his charge time is longer is resistance. Resistance consumes power, whether in the connections or the smaller #12 cable. The net result is more expensive recharging. I suspect most of the difference is the #12 wire. 

We're using a Zivan NG5 for 208-240V use and will size the wire appropriately. In fact I hope to turn it on for the first time tomorrow!


----------

