# Degreasing frame and POR-15 paint tips



## Ivansgarage (Sep 3, 2011)

Thats a sand blaster at harbor frieght, You DONT want sand every place.
Think pressure washer (rent) even wash the drive way afterwards.


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## alvin (Jul 26, 2008)

Yes a pressure washer is what I used. It took several times of washing and using degreaser.


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

+1 pressure washer.

Spray engine degreaser, pressure wash, repeat. 

Don't expect your clothes to make it though...


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Will 1500 PSI water be enough? Will it strip away rust or just the loose stuff?

This will get quite messy since it is inside my garage.


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## mmoyer2655 (Apr 15, 2012)

I can't say for sure, but I used 3000psi and that required basically running the tip of the nozzle in lines back and forth an inch away from the metal.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I know someone here that has one I can borrow to see if it works.

I guess I can find something else to do tomorrow.


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## Joey (Oct 12, 2007)

I used engine degreaser with 10 minutes of soak-in time, and a steam wand, with a small 1 inch diameter wire brush attachment. Thick areas with pools of dirty sludge took a few repeat treatments. I think steam is less messy than a pressure washer, but it is a dirty job no matter what.


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## TomA (Mar 26, 2009)

Yup, steam is the best. It doesn't foul electrical systems, and nothing removes grime better.

Very hard to find, though. The home steam kits are kind of a joke, and not really up to the job. Try to find a professional steam cleaning facility. Its worth trailering the car over there if you have a trailer.

When I was a young hot rodder in Chicago 25 years ago, there was a place near Archer Avenue that steam cleaned engine bays. The wand had a 1/2" bore and could blow the flesh of your bones instantly, or so they said... There was always a line of cars from dealers and taxi companies waiting for the job, which was a 10 minute deal for the engine bay only, and 25 if they put it up on the lift and hit the undercarriage. The cars emerged spotless, dry, and so clean that painted areas would pass a white glove test. No pre-soaping, brushing, nuttin' but superheated steam.

Short of that, there are a couple of degreasers I like- There's something called Oil-eater or something close that Costco sells by the gallon and works well enough. Lestoil works better for me, and after that I use Dawn dish soap. It works well and safely enough that they use it on oiled animals after a crude spill. I don't like the pressure washer because its hard on systems and forces water into seams, wiring, fasteners, bearings and bushings, but that's just me. One thing about cleaning at home- I do mechanical removal first, with rubber scrapers, scrap towels wrapped around screwdrivers, old ropes, popsicle sticks, whatever, but I don't spray the degreaser on until I've already REALLY wiped or scraped off (over a plastic tarp under the car) everything I can. Much cleaner and actually faster that way. And you have to scrub degreaser with a brush, no matter what the package says.

As for the POR-15, I don't use it very much any more. Now I use the various rust converter products. The Loctite is thinner and makes a better surface, but the Rustoleum bites in more, seems more permanent, and makes a blacker, flatter finish. 

The trick to these things is they work much better over a solid coating of rust. Don't clean it all off first. I actually use a saltwater wash or two to establish an even rusty surface if I don't have one, brush that with a bristle (not wire) brush to get the loose oxide off, and hit it with 3-5 light coats of converter. I like the finish, and haven't had anything flake or re-rust in a decade of doing it that way. Plus, its cheaper than POR-15, easier to use, probably a fair amount lighter, easier to clean-up and doesn't look like undercoating. But POR is fine, too. 

POR-15 doesn't need top-coating except for UV protection, so if you aren't exposing it to sunlight, its OK in basic black.


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

The last thing you want to do is sand blast if you are planning on panting afterwards. Any grease or oil will be permeated into the metal by the blaster. Steam is good if you have access. Removable parts can be dipped. A machine shop or auto rebuilder will most likely have a tank they would clean parts for you for a price of course. And then there is good old soap and water. Mean Green cuts trough a lot of stuff.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks for the tips, we will see how this goes. I never thought about scraping it off... So, that is the next thing I will try. and then use paper towels to get the rest. I think I overestimated the amount of sludge and gunk I actually have to remove. It isn't quite as bad on the remaining parts. 

The big job will be brushing off the loose rust. I went to the store today and looked at an angle grinder with this twisted metal brush that might go through the frame.  But it would defiantly remove the rust. It would cost $45 and make short work of it. So, if things don't go quick enough, I buy it to move the job forward. I went with the $4 cheap version that will attach to my drill. I just have to keep in mind that I don't have to strip it to bare metal like I do for the exterior panels...

I hope this will work. Steam sounds good, but I would rather get this done now until waiting until after it was all put together and drive over to a steam cleaning place. I bet they exist here though. And water blasting would make a mess, so I'm hoping to avoid it.


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

I used the KBS Rust Seal. It's better than Por15. They sell a 3 step process with cleaner, rust remover and coating. I was a bit hesitant to buy the whole kit, but I'm glad I did. The cleaner is amazing and I use it on all kinds of things. I'm on my second gallon jug. 
There are some instructional videos which show some of it's amazing attributes. It takes high heat also. I once painted my brake calipers and had to use heat to break a bleeder screw loose after paint. . . and the paint didn't even come off with the heat.
Check it out. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal-directions.html

You can't buy it in a store. Oh, one other point.... if you want to buy a gallon... buy it in 4 x 1 quart cans. It is cured with moisture in the air and if you don't clean the lip of the can and use some plastic wrap to seal . . it will harden up on you. Use latex gloves and if you get some on your skin and it dries. . nothing will remove it, except time. . . it has to wear off. (ask me how I know)


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## Jan (Oct 5, 2009)

To remove grease or oil, Petrol or Diessel will work fine. I never used Diessel, but they say it's better because Petrol cleans it so very well, that the metal starts to rust very quickly again. It will smell awful, but the petrol evaporates very quickly. Oh, and I use a simple steal brush in that proces. Not on the drill. The underground becomes a problem. Think of that ahead, and not like me, always afterwards.


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## Brute Force (Aug 28, 2010)

Gasoline works great if you don't mind burn wards and skin grafts. 

I prefer non-flammable methods myself.

Old rodder's trick for removing grease from framework: Easy-Off Oven Cleaner. Scrap the heave crap off with a putty knife. Hose it down with the oven cleaner and scrub good with a brush (use safety goggles and latex gloves). Clean up with Simple Green and water.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

The hard '5-in-1' scraper that I purchased in the paint section at the hardware store was the best thing I used to get the gunk off. It took about 2 hours.

Then I used my drill bit abrasive wheel to remove the loose rust and to scratch the surface of the smooth metal.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

The Olympics and business travel slowed my progress down the last few weeks, but I did get some help to remove the bed of the truck today. 

Now to de-rust the bad sections, and finally get to painting.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I am going slow at this, but yesterday I did grind down the back under bed part of the frame (I did have to remove the truck bed, which should have been done earlier looking back at it)

I am going to borrow an air compressor in order to blow off the rust dust that is still all over the frame. I'll go over it all again to see if I missed any spots, the use this metal ready stuff and start painting hopefully on Friday.

They have changed the name since I bought it I guess. That just shows you how ahead of myself I was. 
http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY/productinfo/MRG/


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Wet Blaster...

There is a sand feed attachment for a pressure washer. I cleaned 150 GM metric frames that way once. They come out sparkling clean.

We had a rotisserie for the frames to save time.

You have to keep it fairly dry afterwards or it will heavily rust really fast.

Miz


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Soda blasting works great and you can get one for home use and it is not toxic to the ground and it leaves a small layer on the metal that remains and prevents flash rusting. If you can use high pressure, up to 100psi then it will work better at removing gunk. Real hard dry gunk will be tough for anything but you can do this to remove paint too and not ruin the metal. Any residue washes away with water. It will not remove DEEP RUST. Deep rust just needs to be removed and replaced with clean metal. Will be bustin out my soda blaster here real soon. 


Pete


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

We use soda blasters for removing paint overspray from chrome and glass. It is really good for carbs and other delicate stuff too. There is a local guy that comes around mobile and does blasting jobs like paint removal from brick walls. You might get a price and compare...

Miz


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## 5T3 (Jul 29, 2012)

i have sandblasted some machine parts before now with glass bead and if the metal is thin it will tear it apart
also if they are gunked up it will not work the bead or sand just sticks to it and then you would end up with a huge mess i agree with steam or getting it dipped 
steam will take time as well as patience but will save a lot of work as getting it dipped could mean you have to weld and refinish


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

That is why most of the world went to "wet blasting". Sand for aggressive, glass beads for medium and baking soda for fine stuff. There is no dust and the sticky stuff does not stick as with a dry blast. 

We were doing frames this way back in 1996.

Miz


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I spent another 2.5 hours on it tonight, but I used my stiff paint scraper and it worked great. I also borrowed an air compressor, and when it isn't the middle of the night, I will be able to use it without bothering my neighbors. I did try it a few times, and it was able to blow off all of the dust and is the right tool for the job.

I'm going to be painting this weekend as the first step to putting this thing all back together.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I spent about 20+ hours this weekend scraping, sanding, and cleaning this *$#^! frame...

Everyplace I looked, there was more flaky rust or dirt or grime... It was a dirty job, and it took about 3 times longer than I had guessed.

Now it is finally ready for me to use this Metal Ready stuff, then wash it off, and then paint it with POR-15. I'm going to use this self etching primer and a spray can to paint the hard to get areas and the hidden parts.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

But every time you look at it, you will get a "warm fuzzy" knowing it was done well. It is the first real step of your build.

Miz


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## lockduke (Dec 25, 2009)

Just a little extra info. There is also plastic bead blasting, walnut shell and corn cob media for the softer metals. It doesn't leave a lot of dusty media behind and it is not hard to clean up after when working with it. And after using it all you need to do is blow it off and wipe down with a Tac rag then paint the surface it is perfect to take paint.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Caps18 said:


> and it took about 3 times longer than I had guessed.


That sounds normal. Any job having to do with an automobile will take at least a minimum of 3 times longer than expected. Your right on track. Keep up the good work.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

It ended up being closer to 10x longer. 

It is finally painted! 

Well, at least the 1st coat of POR-15... I had to scrape quite a bit more since the last post, it was about 30-40 hours of scraping, air compressor blowing, shop vac vacuuming, and degreasing with a foaming degreaser. Then I got some Marine Clean from POR-15 and mixed it with hot water. I started at 8pm last night and finished at 1am just getting all of the oil residue off, but it worked really good. I thought that it was already to go, but the Marine Clean stuff and lots of paper towels worked. You just spray it on and keep spraying it for 30 minutes and it comes off pretty easy (after you have scraped off the thick stuff)

Then I waited for it to dry and started spraying the Metal Ready stuff at 3am-4am. I washed off the stuff with a water mister bottle. I'm not sure if that is enough or not. I went back once everything was dry with a stiff plastic bristle brush to remove the white dust.

Then I started painting at 10:30am I thought it would take 2 hours... 8 hours later, I got one coat down on everything. But it looks good. Now I am going to put a topcoat on the 'easy' parts that might be visible, and find any little spots where I missed (not too many). I used 1 quart of POR-15 paint to do one full coat on my frame and other metal parts. I am also going to used some rubberized undercoating on the bottom of the cab and the wheel wells.

I do have some pictures and will post them in the next few days.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I promised pictures, so here they are. This was done on Saturday, Sept 1st.

Frame dry after getting sprayed with Metal Ready (Prep & Ready). 90% of a quart spray bottle.



















You can see the mess that is my garage right now...

It turned out well. I also painted under the cab and inside the engine compartment. I am considering painting the firewall with the paint as well, we'll see.










I should have gotten around to painting the underside of the cab with rubberized paint this weekend, but there is always next weekend. Plus, I need to start removing unneeded wiring and labeling the good wires.

I will be painting every place that is easy to get to with a top coat. I will have to buy a spray can of the top coat to spray in certain spots. As well as use a q-tip to get paint in other places where I missed. I will also want to paint the battery box frame once that get's built and installed.

I used 6 foam paint brushes to paint most of the frame. The 1.5" brush at the end works a little better though. Make sure you wear gloves, a vapor respirator and have low humidity.


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## max mariner (Jan 23, 2020)

I will recommend you to use a spray degreaser it will work best in such condition. Because spray degreaser will remove the dirt and they are easy to use I have been using Rx spray degreaser for last 5 years and in such situations it works best for me and it will work best for you too . Hope this helps


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