# UMOC Wiring help



## rclugnut (Aug 11, 2011)

Hi,

I'm hoping you can guys help us, I'm part of an engineering team that competes in the SAE clean snowmobile challenge. We are working on rebuilding our old sled...

A bit of history first, before I was on the team the sled was controlled by a solectria UMOC 325, the year before i joined a DMOC445 replaced that and is mated with the solectria AC-21 motor. We have since built up a new sled we purchased another umoc second hand. This DMOC is giving us issues (see the other thread i just posted "DMOC help"). So we're also looking to drop in the old umoc controller however wiring it somewhat of a snag of us and we could use some direction.

Based on the attached manual (page 141 per the manual 149/162 in adobe) We can follow most of the wiring except where the 12v supply goes in. We're geussing it's pin 14 "main ignition switch to digital enable".

Our biggest issue that we have is the encoder, currently the encoder is setup for the dmoc through the 9 pin ampseal connector, we know all of those pins. What we dont' know is where those 9 pins should go on the umoc controller so we can make an adapter. Does anybody know what the pin out for the encoder input is on the umoc? 

Thanks


----------



## zaxxon (Jul 11, 2009)

The main 12 volt input goes into the cable coming out of the box on page 80 Figure 4 labeled : 2 Pin Packard from Keyed 12V DC.


The pin out for the UMOC encoder cable is: 1 – (no connection), 2 – (GND), 3 – (A-), 4 – (A+), 5 – (GND), 6 – (6 volts), 7 – (B-), 8 – (B+), 9 – (TC+)

Note, the encoder signal that goes to the A+ and A- and B+ and B- must be a bi-polar signal that goes plus and minus with respect to ground.


----------



## rclugnut (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks I was directed to page 141 and haven't read through the whole manual yet as that seemed like the logical place for all that information to be. We probably won't be testing the encoder for a while with finials and winter break coming up. This will be connected to an encoder that originally went with a DMOC 445, do you know if this will cause any issues, the pin's seem mostly similar/compatible.

Thanks


----------



## zaxxon (Jul 11, 2009)

I am not familiar with the DMOC 445. I have experience with the UMOC 445 and CAN based DMOC645 and they require different signals. 

I would say if the DMOC 445 Encoder or the Motor documentation shows four wires with two pairs having a + and - connection each, then I would say it will work. If just two wires UA1 and UA2 are shown that use the ground for reference return, then I would say no, and you will need to add a circuit to convert the 0 to 5 volt signal pulses from the motor to bipolar 
 + / - 5 volt pulses.


Note: 
On the DMOC 445 issue you’re having. What you describe sounds like it could be a signal grounding issue. Make sure to check all your grounds and signal and switch return wires. If the controller requires a reference connection to your frame and 12 volt battery ground make sure you have one. Make sure your DMOC case is also grounded if the manual says to do so.


----------



## rclugnut (Aug 11, 2011)

It looks like it has 2, i've attached the manual where we're basing our pin outs for the encoder off of (see page 19) and it looks like it should have those along with a few other things but i can't imagine we'll need temp, i'm not sure if we have the motor position on our current harness. We'll have to check after break. 

Also thanks for the input on the grounding, a lot of our testing has been done with an DC power supply wired through the leads that our 12v pack would run through. We've had terrible luck with 12v packs... We'll pick up a regular lead acid and see if that helps things.


----------



## zaxxon (Jul 11, 2009)

Looks like the manual attachment did not work. I did find a copy however and it looks like the DMOC 445 has the four connections same as UMOC. If you do end up going back to using the UMOC, you should hook up the temp sensor too. Without the temp sensor the UMOC is likely to derate the output. 
 
Getting the battery and hooking every thing up with proper grounding is your best bet. If you want to use an external power supply. Make sure its output is isolated and make sure you tie all ground and return connections to the power supply negative voltage terminal. My guess on your DMOC problem is not all returns and grounds are connected.


----------



## rclugnut (Aug 11, 2011)

zaxxon said:


> Looks like the manual attachment did not work. I did find a copy however and it looks like the DMOC 445 has the four connections same as UMOC. If you do end up going back to using the UMOC, you should hook up the temp sensor too. Without the temp sensor the UMOC is likely to derate the output.
> 
> Getting the battery and hooking every thing up with proper grounding is your best bet. If you want to use an external power supply. Make sure its output is isolated and make sure you tie all ground and return connections to the power supply negative voltage terminal. My guess on your DMOC problem is not all returns and grounds are connected.




Thanks and we'll give that a shot the DMOC would be a bit nicer to have ccshell is nice to have... I also heard back from an alumni of the team and now we know what the old encoder looks like so we may *may* be able to dig it up if not install it but who know's we've moved spaces since it was last used...

We'll try using the battery hopefully that does it... It's interesting that our other dmoc doesn't have this issue powered in the same manner...

Thanks and i'll re-attach the manual (i probably forgot knowing me) just as a reference for anybody else...


----------



## joeboxbaytown (Dec 5, 2013)

Contrex www.contrexinc.com provided encoders to azure Manuals on their site and free Tech support-Glen at 1 800 342 4411

dmoc 445 came in pedal control first easy install and sold well but as gasholes murdered azure dynamics they made it can only like the 645. You can set cc shell in test mode and use an analog pot but only to debug. then ford promised them a lot of work they would never get. They invested money preparing and never recovered from it. A lot of frankenstien units were created and sold with parts pilfered as they flopped. I have all the manuals and will attach them in case u need. Tritium ws 200s are better but so expensive. If you have 300volt batt bank surplus industrial 220v vfds are a better value and seem to install quickly


----------



## rclugnut (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks we'll give them a shout, it may have to wait until next semester as finials start next week :/


----------



## rclugnut (Aug 11, 2011)

Also thanks for the direction on those other controllers unfortunately they're a bit out of our budget, and the 200 is a bit much for what were doing and the 22 is just too small :/


----------

