# Mechanical Breaker for 230VDC



## Zuglet (Oct 17, 2009)

I will be increasing my nominal pack voltage from 168VDC to 217VDC.

Currently, I am using an Airpax breaker as the mechanical emergency disconnect -- but it is only rated at 160VDC…
http://store.kta-ev.com/circuit_breakers_fuses_safety_switches/airpax_250amps.aspx

I like having a switch type (purely mechanical) breaker as an emergency disconnect -- but have not been able to find one with the appropriate ratings.

I am aware of the Kilovac contactors -- is there a mechanical type of breaker that will work with my new configuration.

Thanks for any thoughts.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

Zuglet said:


> I will be increasing my nominal pack voltage from 168VDC to 217VDC.
> 
> I like having a switch type (purely mechanical) breaker as an emergency disconnect -- but have not been able to find one with the appropriate ratings.


this is right around where a typical photovoltaic array disconnect is rated... try looking on PV sites.


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

Zuglet said:


> I will be increasing my nominal pack voltage from 168VDC to 217VDC.
> 
> Currently, I am using an Airpax breaker as the mechanical emergency disconnect -- but it is only rated at 160VDC…
> http://store.kta-ev.com/circuit_breakers_fuses_safety_switches/airpax_250amps.aspx
> ...


Hey Zug...check out post #118 on my thread. 250 volts DC, adjustable trip limits, cable to remote set/reset and shunt trip...which is a really nice way to wire up the red mushroom button in the cab.... 

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...mn-here-we-go-23492p12.html?highlight=breaker


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## Zuglet (Oct 17, 2009)

DIYguy said:


> Hey Zug...check out post #118 on my thread. 250 volts DC, adjustable trip limits, cable to remote set/reset and shunt trip...which is a really nice way to wire up the red mushroom button in the cab....
> 
> http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...mn-here-we-go-23492p12.html?highlight=breaker


Thanks for the tip DIYguy.

I found one of these (Cutler-Hammer KDB2400) on eBay and it certainly will do what I asked. I really like that I can break both legs of the battery pack.

What surprised me the most was how big and heavy it is. Since this is going into a car, I was hoping for something smaller and lighter -- but if I can't find anything smaller, I will find a way to make it fit. I know, some people are impossible to please 

For comparison, the AirPax breaker is rated at 160VDC @ 250 amps, weighs about 1.75 lbs and measures 7" x 1.5" x 3"

This Cutler-Hammer breaker is rated at 250 VDC and 400 amps. weighs just short of 10 lbs and measures 10" x 5.5" x 3.5" -- it's much bigger in person than it appear in pictures. I've attached a picture of the two for a size comparison.

Thanks again for the suggestion.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

That's a nice looking breaker.

It looks like the sort of thing that should give a satisfying 'kerdunk' when the lever is flipped.

Where are you going to put it? It's not really pretty enough to be visible.


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## Zuglet (Oct 17, 2009)

Woodsmith said:


> It looks like the sort of thing that should give a satisfying 'kerdunk' when the lever is flipped.
> 
> Where are you going to put it? It's not really pretty enough to be visible.


It makes quite a 'kedunk' when flipped.

I will put it under the hood near the controller -- not totally sure exactly where it's going to fit.


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

Hey Juglet,

Mine is actually smaller at 10"x4"x4". Its rated at 250 amps 600VAC/250VDC. Model HMCP2LWS10. still big enough, but narrower than yours. Probably a few pound lighter also. I put mine behind my Soliton and u cant see it unless u look. One other nice thing is the set-able instantaneous trip current limits. Mine has settings A thru I, 9 settings. The lowest one being 1125 amps and highest being 2250 amps. I have mine set on the lowest setting and have tripped it about 4 times... )) (I'm rather proud of that.... ) lol
U'll love the remote shunt trip also. 

It is rather large...but there is no other breaker I've seen at 250VDC. The guys running higher voltage don't typically use a breaker from what I've read.


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## Roy Von Rogers (Mar 21, 2009)

Take a look here...........

http://www.filnor.com/tech/literature/knifeswitch/Knife-Switch-Catalog-Full.pdf


Roy


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Roy Von Rogers said:


> Take a look here...........
> 
> http://www.filnor.com/tech/literature/knifeswitch/Knife-Switch-Catalog-Full.pdf
> 
> ...


That is just what I am looking for to make my 'steampunk' reversing switch.


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## coryrc (Aug 5, 2008)

dtbaker said:


> this is right around where a typical photovoltaic array disconnect is rated... try looking on PV sites.


Be wary of the peak break current, as PV panels don't have high short-circuit currents, unlike batteries.


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## PhantomPholly (Aug 20, 2008)

Zuglet said:


> It makes quite a 'kedunk' when flipped.
> 
> I will put it under the hood near the controller -- not totally sure exactly where it's going to fit.


Maybe not a bad idea to have it automatically trip any time you pop the hood as a safety feature? That way you could just have the hood pop cable in series with the breaker - first detent, breaker; second detent, hood. That would preclude the necessity for a new and possibly ugly lever inside the cabin.


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

PhantomPholly said:


> Maybe not a bad idea to have it automatically trip any time you pop the hood as a safety feature? That way you could just have the hood pop cable in series with the breaker - first detent, breaker; second detent, hood. That would preclude the necessity for a new and possibly ugly lever inside the cabin.


Not too handy for working on stuff. 
I did hook up the lever and mounted it under the hood. It has a lockout hasp which is nice. It has remote shunt trip so, you connect this to a mushroom button inside the cabin. That's it.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

DIYguy said:


> Not too handy for working on stuff.
> I did hook up the lever and mounted it under the hood. It has a lockout hasp which is nice. It has remote shunt trip so, you connect this to a mushroom button inside the cabin. That's it.


But it would be safe.
You could still reset the trip after the hood is propped open if you needed to power up.


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## PhantomPholly (Aug 20, 2008)

Woodsmith said:


> But it would be safe.
> You could still reset the trip after the hood is propped open if you needed to power up.


Yes - that is what I was trying to say. Most hood releases are spring-loaded, so once you let go of the lever you could re-set the breaker if you actually intended to have full power available.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Any sources for these breakers? Only one on ebay i could find was 1500usd


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

jackbauer said:


> Any sources for these breakers? Only one on ebay i could find was 1500usd


Yes, they aren't cheap. Look for any place that has used automation for factories, particularly spot welding panels. I guess, u don't have much in the way of manufacturing there any more though eh? Isn't it becoming the IT capital of the world or something>? I have another one...but I don't really want to part with it.. 

As for the hood switch... for sure, it would work and be safe, yup. All depends what u like. You would just have to have a way to reset the switch.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

I'll keep my eyes open. More like the bankrupcy capital of the world


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

Me likey those Filnor contraptions!


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

jackbauer said:


> Any sources for these breakers? Only one on ebay i could find was 1500usd


I don't think that this one has the remote trip feature, but otherwise is similar.

http://cgi.ebay.com/GE-Industrial-C...uit_Breakers_Transformers&hash=item2c563029a9


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## carambo46 (Oct 12, 2010)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Cutler-Hammer-D...uit_Breakers_Transformers&hash=item483df34655

http://cgi.ebay.com/Westinghouse-40...uit_Breakers_Transformers&hash=item588bff8d49

I beleive cutler hammer and Westinghouse are the same.


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