# Volvo Amazon wagon EV conversion



## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

The de-ICEing was completed a while ago, the weight delta before and after de-ICEing has been measured and the adapterplate to mount the gearbox to the engine is ready.
Furthermore have I decided on the layout of the controller and batterybox in the front.

Currently I am working on the motor mount and have build a prototype.








It will of course be upgraded (10mm steel plate covering all engine mounts in front of the engine and stronger "flaps").

Do you think the design will do?
(Engine is 90kg and produces 300 Nm).

Or do I need an additional stay between the upper bolt of the motor/adapterplate and the engine mount rubber?

Or do I need a completely different design with a frame around the motor and engine mounts on the side like the original B20 has.


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## Studebaker (Jan 22, 2012)

Great car mate. Really cool


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Thanks! 
Another update. I came to the conclusion that the design will do and have finalised the prototype. Next week I will visit some companies that can actually produce it.






















Next step is to change the pedal box for the conversion from hydraulic clutch to cable clutch.


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## Studebaker (Jan 22, 2012)

Hi mate. 

First… it’s a great project. Amazons are the coolest cars ever . In my book at least. 140 series is great too. Don’t know why, but I like 140 series even better. I mean, those were the days. They build cars back then. Now… they just make gadgets. New every season. Four times a year. 

To be honest, I thought you was asking if those rusty angles were OK for motor mounting. Now I see full picture (you need to take pics, so there’s something to relate to). I think it’s quite sufficient. Don’t suppose you had a go at vectorizing it, but I think it’s really neat design. Will work 100%


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## Eric (Sep 9, 2012)

Hi Lars, 

Nice to see another dutchmen convert something to electric. Have you figured out how to get it to pass RDW/APK after the conversion?


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Yes have done some research before deciding to actually start the project.
See http://www.oudevolvo.nl/2015/03/11/...-amazon-combi-naar-elektrische-auto/#kenteken (in Dutch)
Most important is the EMC certification. Therefore I have purchased my Siemens DMOC645 set at New Electric and have chosen them as partner for the project.
They had the Siemens+DMOC tested and it passed the test. So they will provide me with a certificate that all my components meet the EMC criteria. I can use that at the RDW. This makes it a paperwork exercise without the need for me to take the actual tests myself with my build.
Furthermore it is about handling, braking and weight but that is a matter of best efforts, calculations and estimates and a little trial and error.


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## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

Becareful to start informing the RDW on tiem. The rules are shifting to having the complete vehicle EMC certified instead of just the components. 

So informing about the up coming rule changes is a good thing to do.


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## Eric (Sep 9, 2012)

The emc is the biggest deal, but rules are constantly changing like tomdb says so keep asking for the latest changes before you build something that is not going to pass all tests.
Interesting build so far!


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Thanks! I will check with both RDW and discuss it with New Electric. One advantage for me is that I'm in the slipstream of another conversion they are doing at the moment. However, thanks for the advice! A moving target or even worse a target changes later on that requires other design decisions are not very pleasant. Thought that since in The Netherlands we have one of the most strictest rules already it would not change much...


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Back to your "rule changes" for getting your car on the road
Do you not have a mechanism for commenting/critiquing the proposed new rules?

Here (NZ) all proposed changes are published for comment

If you make sensible suggestions they have a very good chance of being acted upon - you are citizens and your votes do count

On a subject like rules for electric cars just a few sensible comments can make a lot of difference


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Wow, that is a good approach!
Over here it is a little more "top down" I'm afraid (as far as I know). Probably there are some interest groups that actively try influence the way forward. However, for me it is just working with the rules as they are. During my research on the feasibility of getting my EV registered, I even found lawsuits where somebody had to meet new (much stricter) criteria since a certain date was passed because the organisation managing registrations did not have sufficient capacity or measurement equipment. 
I think nowadays it is much more open and dialogue already so I am quite positive it will all work out. Nevertheless it is still good to gather information on new rules since I did not know yet they are coming. Might be an important input factor for the planning of my project.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

An update on my project. With regards to rules, the Dutch organization might move towards an integrated test of all components working together instead of EMC tests of individual components but this has not been confirmed yet.
My parts were tested and certified as a whole so even if it moves into that direction I have the right paperwork in place thanks to New Electric.

In terms of progress, the motor mount is ready:









Currently I am working on mounting the controller.


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## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

Sorry to break your bubble, it is the whole *CAR* not the Drivetrain. So contact with RDW is a good idea, however using an EMC certified drivetrain as from New Electric greatly improves the changes of the RDW being helpful.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

The whole car for each conversion? That is quite strict and would add EUR 2700 to the budget and will kill most of the DIY conversion projects. Can't imagine that the RDW is up to that but you never know. I will ask again later but for now I just continue assuming having a certified drivetrain is sufficient.


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## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

It should be sufficient for now.

However Holland wants to be a fore runner for rules and regulations. Getting any DIY car on the road is a pain in the ass in Holland. Also even "certified" kit cars.


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## dcb (Dec 5, 2009)

nice wheels! did I see 30xcalb? anyone run a siemens and a dmoc on 96v before?


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Thanks! Those are 5,5J Kronprinz wheels (were available as an option).
Standard wheels on a Volvo Amazon wagon were 4,5J.

I'll be using 90 cells in total (thus 288V). 30 in the front and 60 in the back.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

After quite a while another update on my project. In the meantime I explored the possibilities of using Tesla modules instead of the CALBs in some separate topics.
After 1,5 years of welding, last week I finally came to the point where the body is my car is solid and rust free, so now the project can really get started.
I also managed to sell the CALBs so now I will continue my quest with the Tesla modules.
Will post more frequent updates from now on since they do really become EV related.

Two relevant updates from during the restoration.
The type 2 socket is mounted where the original gas cap was, still using that cap as the cover.








Blogpost about it (in Dutch): Restauratie Amazon combi sprint 3-daagse

And the CHAdeMO socket is mounted in the right front wing.








Blogpost about it (in Dutch):
CHAdeMO snellaad aansluiting geplaatst
For the EV conversion I will also publish more on the English section of my blog and translate some more of the previous posts.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

I noticed it has been a while since I updated my thread.
As mentioned in the Controlling Pierburg CWA50 speed topic, I am now able to PWM control my Pierburg CWA 50 pumps using Arduino.

Next step was to look into the cooling system as a whole. My idea was to mix the controller loop and the batteries loop as long as the batteries were not in their desired operating range. Once I got down to the details is was not as straightforward as I had hoped.
All details in my latest blogpost (in English): Test fitted Tesla battery module and designing cooling
This is my current concept:








In short, I want to use a heat exchanger and use waste heat from the motor loop. 
At the moment I a still looking into whether a standard thermostatic mixing valve can be used to limit the heat that can come from the heat exchanger (to add an additional safety barrier in case the valve that should close the heating loop once the batteries are about 15 to 20 degrees fails).


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

It's been a while since my last post here but have been making some progress.
Links to my blog for the long version of the story:
1- First Tesla Model S batteries are in and progress cooling system
2- Layout engine bay and remote control via iPhone
3- DC-DC converter mount, flowtest and batterybox support
4- Controller mount, roofrack, Tesla technology and innovation
5- Wiring diagram design and weighing again
6- Weighing wagons and battery distribution decision

The summary of all that:
I have received my 12s Tesla modules, thanks Boekel!
Furthermore have I build a proof of concept for remotely monitoring and to some extend control the car (pre-heating the cabin).
I have mounted the DC-DC converter and did some flowtests for the cooling circuits. Also have I mounted the DMOC. Everything is falling into place now.
I started building the dummy battery front box. As part of that I also worked on the wiring diagram. I doubted whether I would put 3 battery modules in the front and 5 in the back or 2/6.
After some calculations and weighing cars I decided to stay with 3/5.

Some pictures with links to full story:


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Another update from my end. After determining the weight and thus battery distribution I started working on the rear battery box.
First step was a prototype made from wood and metal.


My spare wheel area was rusted too much so I removed that. But the Tesla modules are smaller than the total number of CALB cells intended in the rear end before. So now an original spare wheel area would be nice so I removed that from a donor vehicle.


In the end however that turned out to be not usable enough.
I decided to also build new sides. However it is going to be very very tight, so my mockups were not accurate enough. I decided to continu learning to do 3D drawing and design my batterybox first. Including the direct surroundings of the car and the tow bar.


In the end I also started drawing the front box and got better at it. It gave me a lot of insights and things that I would have missed using the wooden prototype only. Still work in progress, but here is an impression.

More details and photo's/screenshots can be found in my blogpost: 3D CAD drawings of the battery boxes and later on in the next blogpost.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

A couple of questions: 

Do you guys add contactors to the battery boxes in order to shut down all power of both boxes in case the slap switch or inertia switch is triggered?
I can for example add the main - contactor to one box and a midpack contactor to the other.

How fast are the Tesla cell fuses?
Will the A50QS400 provide sufficient protection?
http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_38&products_id=182
I want the A50 to blow up first, does anyone have a clue whether that will be the case?

Thanks in advance for thinking along.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Another update on my project with a summary of my blogposts over the last couple of months. More details can be found in the links.

September 1st: *Progress front battery box design and cooling system*
Did a flowtest of a thermostatic mixer to be able to limit the temperature in the battery coolant loop. And worked on designing the distribution blocks









September 8th: *Redesign cooling & highvoltage, battery box, Jaguar E-type Zero inspiration*
I further worked on designing the cooling diagram, high voltage diagram and the front battery box.

















September 22nd: *Designing contactor box and rear battery box & Keep it Simple*
Worked on designing the contactor box and the rear battery box and concluded that I had to keep things more simple. Therefore I dropped the idea of adding a heat exchanger to be able to heat up the battery circuit with the waste heat of the motor cooling loop.









October 11th: *Further details of my electric Volvo Amazon wagon*
Getting some more parts in from New Electric and deciding on using a Mes Dea 70/6E2 vacuum pump and not the Hella UP-28 or even an iBooster from a Tesla.


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

The cell-level Tesla fuses will blow almost instantly.
I saw a video of some yahoos who shorted out the pack and after a big spark, it was all over, and they read 0Volts. 

I don't exactly understand what you mean by wanting the AC50 to "blow first". I think we discussed on the battery thread that fuses like the one you show are slow - shrug.....



oudevolvo said:


> A couple of questions:
> 
> Do you guys add contactors to the battery boxes in order to shut down all power of both boxes in case the slap switch or inertia switch is triggered?
> I can for example add the main - contactor to one box and a midpack contactor to the other.
> ...


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

It' been quite a while since I posted here in my topic, but have been working on my project and updating my own blog.
You can find all the details on https://www.oudevolvo.nl/english/ but here are some highlights:

After a lot of versions and mockups I finalised the battery boxes:

Rear design v2
Prototype rear v2
Mockup front box
Redesign battery boxes
Prototype front box v4
Battery box designs final

















And after some waiting it was exciting to unbox the lasercut and bended parts when they arrived.









And both the rear frame as the front frame and box and rear frame are now also welded (welding credits to Mischa from Garage71).
















Will add another update on the forum soon.


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