# Kelly KDHD new controller?



## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Hi all

I research and shop for EV parts since three years now and I always understood than Kelly controller are cheep and with them you have the reliability and the performance for your money.
I always saw people, like on evalbum, has poor performance with their KDHA and KDHB controller.

So now, they have a new type of controller in the Kelly familly. The KDHD/E seem improve and better than the old model. Kelly seem realy proud to anounce in his home page than some TTXGP racer use that type of controller (some team like Mavizen and Crystalyte).

I'm realy interested by the KDHD 156v 800A or 1000A controller for use in a small car. The prices are realy attractive.

Well, some of you have more detail about the quality and the performance of those contollers? What do you think about those controllers?

Thanks


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Hummm!!! No comments?

Here you can see what I mean : http://www.kellycontroller.com/Racing-news.php


Kelly writing : Please continue to focus your attention on the good performance of kelly controllers in the
TTXGP Championship! 


Kelly KDHD/E high power brushed motor controllers provide high efficient, smooth controls 
for electric vehicles.They can drive a car or a truck easily. KDHD high power brushed motor 
controllers with simple interface will be the lowest price and easy to use. KDHE brushed motor 
controllers have extended functionalities. They are the updated version of KDHB controllers. 
We believe we can compete with any controllers on price, efficiency, reliability and functionality. 

Top quality and best price controllers are waiting for you!


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Yabert said:


> Hummm!!! No comments?
> 
> Here you can see what I mean : http://www.kellycontroller.com/Racing-news.php


Hi Yabert,

I have never bought or used a Kelly controller. But I have seen and heard about them for a number of years. I appreciate the exposure for the TTXGP that the Kelly web site has. But having been in the paddock with those teams using the Kellys, I can tell you it was not all roses. Electric Race Bikes had a failure at Mosport which I attempted to repair with them. They had a replacement Kelly delivered overnight and made the race with it. However by the next race had switched to a Zilla.

Here is a recent post mentioning problems with a Kelly. 


hondo said:


> Major, your "giant pot" made me laugh, but it also reminded me of my first controllor I built for my Fiero. For those of you who can get several GOOD contactors cheap, it actually works pretty well. You have 3-4 "banks" of resistors (I used 1/8" nichrome wire about 2 ft long) and you set up your throttle with a cam to turn on micro switches that activate the contactors. The secret to making it work is to have a series/parallel switch so you can start out at half voltage until the motor gets up to speed then switch to full voltage only if you need to accelerate quickly. I set up the contactors so that when I first stepped on the throttle, all the juice had to pass through all the resistors. A little farther and the second contactor would kick in bypassing the first resistor bank and so on until I had direct current from the batteries to the motor. You have to set up your micro switches so the next contactor makes contact before the previous one shuts off. This system worked fine but you really had to be on your toes. I melted the posts off of several batteries while in full voltage mode with too low of motor rpm. I have a 1000 amp meter and it would peg if you jumped on it too soon. I eventually bought a 800 amp Kelly controller and have had nothing but trouble with it and am thinking of switching back to my old setup. At least it never left me stranded, even when I melted a post off I could always limp home on half of the battery pack.
> 
> Hondo


Overall, from what I see, it is like 50/50. Some users like them, some hate them. These are just my bystander observations. I have no monetary interest in any controller company.

Regards,

major


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## PTCruisin (Nov 19, 2009)

If I'm not mistaken, I believe Jack Rickard of EVTV fame used a Kelly controller in one of his conversions. I suspect that like the Logisystem controller you have to be able to handle the heat load a little better than what was designed, i.e. a better (larger) heat sink or active cooling. I think Jack mounted his to a chunk of aluminum that extended into the airstream beneath the car.


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## Guest (Oct 7, 2010)

Kelly Controllers in the beginning for EV conversions were weak and under powered and not up to the task. However they listened and did a wonderful job of revising their controller line. Every single one of them. I am quite sure that the newest line would be even better than the last. I own one of the first early sepex controllers and one of the later models. Quite a bit of difference but my early model is still going strong. You must with any controller like these put on a nice fined heat sink to remove heat. Without it you will toast your controller. I was amazed at how many folks did not put on a proper sink and had troubles from the start. I am still amazed at how many don't put them on still even after years of saying you need them. They do not come from the factory with a proper sink. Each application is different and requires different designs but a good solid sink will save your butt in just about all the cases. Also don't go beyond the limits and don't run them at the limits either. Run your controller within the limits and not at the edge. Wow, a 156 volt 800 amp controller. I must go have a look. 

Pete


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## Hondacrzy (Mar 15, 2008)

I have to say that even though I did have some problems with my Kelly controller over the last two years I went through two 12600b models. They have excellent customer service, that goes a long way with me. The 12600b units were still underpowered for my car. The last time it blew was in the beginning of September. It was still barely under warranty and I could have got the same unit, but I decided to upgrade to the new 12800D unit. The new controller has a lot more power then the old unit. It seems the throttle is a little too sensitive and I get a little surging , but I like the power output of the new unit. They have even sent me a new firmware to try and fix the problem but it is still there, not real bad, I can just notice it. As for longevity?????? time will tell. I did add a 120mm fan to help keep it cooler. Make sure you give lots of air with the heat sink.


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## Guest (Oct 7, 2010)

Your Kelly has a nice heat sink but you need to turn the whole thing over and mount the controller with stand off's and then mount a nice fan on top of the fins like I did with my older GolfTech Controller. When I did that I had no further troubles. My sink was just like yours. As yours sits now your controller can't dissipate the heat fast enough and gets hot. Your controller will balk and you push it knowing youre setup is proper but its not and poof goes a controller. That happens when you run things on the edge. Ouch. 

Pete


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

gottdi said:


> ....your controller can't dissipate the heat fast enough and gets hot. Your controller will balk and you push it knowing youre setup is proper but its not and poof goes a controller. That happens when you run things on the edge. Ouch.


Hi Pete,

You would think a quality product would have internal thermal monitoring systems and protection cutback included 

major


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2010)

They do but if you continue to ride the edge then poof goes another controller. Controllers can be pushed to the edge and if done enough times it will not survive. I am sure Kelly is on the lower end of controllers but still doing quite well and improving. All my controllers will and have cut back when they got to hot because of an improper heat sink except my Synkromotive controller. That one never over heated, ever. It will cut back and even shut down if it overheats. 

Pete 

I know of no controller that has no thermal safety cutbacks but you still need a killer heat sink. Most just put the controller on a metal sheet and expect it to work. OUCH.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

gottdi said:


> They do but if you continue to ride the edge then poof goes another controller.


Then not very effective are they


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2010)

Well my original controller was first hooked up with no heat sink and it heated up and cut back. Then I installed a very large thick solid block of aluminum and it still heated up and cut back but it took a bit longer. Then I got my finned heat sink and fan and it never over heated again. But folks will continue to use the controller even during cutbacks and continue to drive it until it does cut back. Each time getting nearer the brink of failure. It is not that the controllers are not doing the job but that the owner is ignoring the issue and continues to drive until it overheats. This is one of the greatest failure points of most basic models of controllers including the most common of all the curtis. Folks think that it is fine to just slap it onto a metal plate like you might do in an underpowered golf cart that sees very little high current and will live just fine but in the car it will over heat and cut back. If it continues the life of the controller is shortened and the owner is not heeding the need to fix the issue. If it smokes I have no pity on the owner. If the controller was used will within the parameters of the controller with proper heat sinking and it smokes then I have pity. Otherwise not. Many will say they were setup correctly but were not. A flat plate is not going to cut the mustard. Get the sink on and go have fun for many years to come. If not be prepared to buy another controller or two. 

My golftech was a very nice controller. The current owner must be a super happy camper as it will not over heat with the sink I installed on it including the fan. They got a damn good deal. It will last a long time. Fully water tight too. I'd run it under water, that is how water tight it is. That is how it should be. To bad they don't make them any longer. It was an old skool company. 

So it's not the controllers fault but the owners fault most of the time. No all but most. 

Pete 

I'd say even the most basic controller is quite effective if it cuts back on overheat. It's the owner that is not effective.


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

Seems to me that doing the thermal analysis and providing the means for the controller to shed heat should be the responsibility of the controller manufacturer, not the customer.


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2010)

Tesseract said:


> Seems to me that doing the thermal analysis and providing the means for the controller to shed heat should be the responsibility of the controller manufacturer, not the customer.


I can't disagree with this and thought the same from the very beginning but as you know most of the controllers on the market require the customer to custom fit a heat sink to to the controller to suit the application. The reason most never provided a proper heat sink is that the manufacturer had no control of the application and also wanted to keep the costs down. Very few provide that level of control. Lets see, TWO maybe THREE!

All have thermal cutbacks but that is minimal protection. Shut down is better but I think many have that too at the extreme. 

So with that if you have one of those controllers that require a customer installed heat sink then you REALLY REALLY need a good one and drive it within the parameters and not at the utter edge like many want to do. 

Pete


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Yabert said:


> What do you think about those controllers?


Well Yabert,

You have some opinions now. Obviously Pete is in the 50 which likes Kelly. And according to Pete, all you need to do is put a massive heat sink and fans on the Kellys.

I don't want to badmouth Kelly, but I will mention that the failure at Mosport was not related to MOSFET overheating. And if you search this site for _Kelly problems or failures_ or search similar sites or the web in general you will find some interesting stuff. Also, when I nosed around about it, Kelly does seem to offer customer support, but not refunds.

As a motor controller consumer, research it and make the best decision you can 

major


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2010)

Yes and you will also find just as many failures of the controllers others are using like the curtis which by the way you need to mount on a real good heat sink with a fan too. Unlike others who continually run their controllers on the edge I run them within the specs and not on the edge. Hence no failures to date of any of the three controllers I have owned. Two of which I still own the other was sold and is being used successfully. So, yes I like Kelly Controllers and Yes the newest controllers are just fine. They successfully made a decent line of controllers. Good cost and good performance. Yes even in race situations and they are continuing to build better controllers that can withstand the rigors of the race world. So what if a few controllers smoke. Many good companies have had that happen and they continue to sell good controllers. Most of the failures were from a few years ago anyway and most of the newer ones work just fine and the customer service just absolutely perfect. They will replace or fix a defective controller and will not stiff you. If you don't operate it within parameters you are the one at fault and not the manufacturer. Be sure you get what you NEED for the application you intend to put it into. If you need a race model you should really contact them first and let them know what you need. Will Curtis do that for you? Hardly. Do you really have much choice from Curtis? Well that is to be seen. They do have some AC controllers which is nice. Some good golf cart controllers too. But what about taking your ride to the track? Kelly likes the track. They even offered me one that I can use at the track. 

I like the newest offerings. My Kelly is a 72 volt 600 amp SepEx controller that has been software modified to run the military starter generators. I am still waiting to take it out on the street. I have a killer heat sink too. 

Pete 

Yea! Don't badmouth them because they do stand behind their product. If you kill it and then can make the new ones withstand that then they are moving in the right direction. Curtis is where it was years ago. Still good but not really moving forward. Just supplying the needed parts is about it. Zilla is still once again up in the air. Soliton is a top notch controller that was badmouthed but has proven it's worth. Logitech is a dead horse. Others are just not available yet and one has no real following yet but made by a killer motor company. Synkromotive is good as far as all the beta units so we shall see how much better the production models are. I am just as much a fan of all the good controllers as I am of Synkro and Kelly. I'd love to have a Zilla and a Soliton1 too. But since I went another direction with no hardships I am a happy camper. 

No known Synkromotive controller failures yet. That is a good sign knowing many are out there after two years of on the road testing and driving daily.


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2010)

Yes and you will also find just as many failures of the controllers others are using like the curtis which by the way you need to mount on a real good heat sink with a fan too. Unlike others who continually run their controllers on the edge I run them within the specs and not on the edge. Hence no failures to date of any of the three controllers I have owned. Two of which I still own the other was sold and is being used successfully. So, yes I like Kelly Controllers and Yes the newest controllers are just fine. They successfully made a decent line of controllers. Good cost and good performance. Yes even in race situations and they are continuing to build better controllers that can withstand the rigors of the race world. So what if a few controllers smoke. Many good companies have had that happen and they continue to sell good controllers. Most of the failures were from a few years ago anyway and most of the newer ones work just fine and the customer service just absolutely perfect. They will replace or fix a defective controller and will not stiff you. If you don't operate it within parameters you are the one at fault and not the manufacturer. Be sure you get what you NEED for the application you intend to put it into. If you need a race model you should really contact them first and let them know what you need. Will Curtis do that for you? Hardly. Do you really have much choice from Curtis? Well that is to be seen. They do have some AC controllers which is nice. Some good golf cart controllers too. But what about taking your ride to the track? Kelly likes the track. They even offered me one that I can use at the track. 

I like the newest offerings. My Kelly is a 72 volt 600 amp SepEx controller that has been software modified to run the military starter generators. I am still waiting to take it out on the street. I have a killer heat sink too. 

Pete 

Yea! Don't badmouth them because they do stand behind their product. If you kill it and then can make the new ones withstand that then they are moving in the right direction. Curtis is where it was years ago. Still good but not really moving forward. Just supplying the needed parts is about it. Zilla is still once again up in the air. Soliton is a top notch controller that was badmouthed but has proven it's worth. Logitech is a dead horse. Others are just not available yet and one has no real following yet but made by a killer motor company. Synkromotive is good as far as all the beta units so we shall see how much better the production models are. I am just as much a fan of all the good controllers as I am of Synkro and Kelly. I'd love to have a Zilla and a Soliton1 too. But since I went another direction with no hardships I am a happy camper. 

No known Synkromotive controller failures yet. That is a good sign knowing many are out there after two years of on the road testing and driving daily.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

gottdi said:


> Yea! Don't badmouth them because they do stand behind their product.


Hey gottdi,

You didn't need to post your reply twice  Anyway, I did say I saw where Kelly had good customer support, so I wasn't badmouthing them about that. Seems like you're pretty sensitive about the subject.

I just posted what I saw. 

major


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2010)

Double post was a glitch and I deleted the double posting. I know you just posting what you see but I get sensitive when old stuff gets reposted only because I think it's a decent product with excellent customer service. 

I think that and mass speculation is what gets my goat the most. Other than that I do just fine with most things. 

Pete


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

gottdi said:


> I know you just posting what you see but I get sensitive when old stuff gets reposted only because I think it's a decent product with excellent customer service.


My observations in the paddock have been within the past 4 months. Hardly "old stuff". I think we best leave it here 

major


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2010)

Yeah but I'd bet my bottom dollar that the information there is hardly new. I know how negative stuff perpetuates on the web. Easy and very common. So called sources are usually slanted but I can't disagree that they had trouble years ago. I don't fault if a product fails. After all it is a machine. Some just fail. The web perpetuates that one to make it sound like it is a terrible company. As for one company their actions killed it as well as the crappy product. Some are still alive but most are not. 

Yes I agree to leave this thread alone. 

I am still in a good mood. My adaptor plate is going back for some rebalancing. Hope to have my Bus back in time for mounting my Kostov motor. 

Time to get ready for that. 

Pete 

Bus is going to the shop hopefully tomorrow.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Thanks all for the interestings comment.

So I'm a bit scare to purchase a Kelly controller, but it's seem I need to test it to have the truth about the quality of this new controller.

Anyway what other controller can accept 180v max and deliver 1000A for 1600$????

I don't have other choise yet. 
It's like I need to add another 1400$ for the big Soliton, but I don't need the extra voltage.
The netgain 160/1000 cost 650$ in more because you need the board to set it.
And the other way is to buy for the same price a less powerfull controller like Synkromotive or ?.

It's frustrating to purchase a big 11 in DC motor for 200$ and need to pay 3000$ to have a good controller to drive it........


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## Guest (Oct 14, 2010)

Yabert said:


> It's frustrating to purchase a big 11 in DC motor for 200$ and need to pay 3000$ to have a good controller to drive it........


Yup that is one of the issues with going electric. If you really want to build one you must build within your budget not just your wants. Or don't build one. 

Many controllers say they will do 1000 or 800 or 700 amps but those rates are for a very short time. What you need is a good controller that will do a decent consistent rate that you'd normally drive. Most street cars will never see 1000 amp draws anyway so why do you need that. If you use a converted car with a transmission and use that transmission your draws will be far less than those grandiose claims. Now if you need some real punch for a few seconds then you do need those controllers that will do and live in those ranges for those times. 

So what are your true needs and what will your budget allow? 

I wanted a whole bunch but very soon realized that my expectations were way off the chart. Reality hit fast. I then built my vehicle and had a blast but the distances were crappy. Don't bother with lead acid batteries for the most part and if you need a good 30 plus miles at any decent speed then you really need to ditch the lead. 

I have saved enough to buy my lithium pack so now I can actually build a viable electric car and be able to go out and enjoy it. It is a big investment to build one just like its a big investment to go buy a new or good used vehicle. It is not something you really do on the cheap.

If you don't have the money don't build one. When you have the money then go ahead and build one. 

That's that. 

Pete


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## F16bmathis (Jun 6, 2008)

When I first created my truck, I bought a Kelly. It blew up, sent for another, it blew up, got another, it blew up, got another, (all free) it worked but the 500 amp controller only put out 250 amps, so I sent it back and upgraded to a 650 amp, it only put out 300 amps. The Kelly rep lives just an hour away, and I went to his house/place of buisiness. He helped with technical installation, but I had it right. Just plain bad controllers.


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## Guest (Oct 23, 2010)

And when did all this take place? Two years or so ago? Or just this past year? Remember that the rated amps is peak and not continuous so of course your controller will only put out in general half or less than the peak. That is how all controllers work. That is how they are rated. I would never expect my 650 amp Kelly to pump out a full 650 for any length of time. That 650 amps is for a mere seconds. Also you need to be sure about the amps your talking about. When reading amps are you reading controller amps or battery amps. Big difference when looking for peak amps. So be sure your talking about what your controller is actually pumping out and not what your batteries are pumping out. Many battery packs can't pump out 650 amps. Some can. What kind of batteries. My 700 amp controller has yet to see a full 700 amp output but I highly doubt that my batteries can provide that kind of output through a controller. 

Pete 

Kelly Controllers are Decent Controllers. The old ones were not so hot. But remember that Kelly produces controllers mostly for industrial equipment and not really for freeway driven cars. Kind of like Curtis. The high end of each can be used for on road vehicles. Be sure you have a REAL GOOD heat sink. Show your heat sink you used on your failed Kelly Controllers.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

gottdi said:


> Remember that the rated amps is peak and not continuous so of course your controller will only put out in general half or less than the peak. That is how all controllers work. That is how they are rated. I would never expect my 650 amp Kelly to pump out a full 650 for any length of time. That 650 amps is for a mere seconds. Also you need to be sure about the amps your talking about. When reading amps are you reading controller amps or battery amps. Big difference when looking for peak amps.


Typically motor controllers are rated by the current limit. Most of them specify that level of current for 2 minutes (starting with a room temperature controller). Some specify 1 minute. And I think some 5 minutes.

Then the controller has a continuous current rating. Often times, it is half of the current limit, but not always. Sometimes the continuous (or one hour) current rating will be only 25-30% of the maximum (current limit) value.

And recently I see some controllers advertise a "boost" current figure 50 to 200A above the current limit. No time is given for that and I don't know much about it.

As far as battery current vs motor current, the current ratings for the controllers are motor current. However, at 100% duty cycle, battery current equals motor current. So the controller current limit will be noticeable on the battery current monitor at high speed, full throttle.

If I buy a 500A controller, I expect it to put out 500A, for the specified time. If it does not, then it has been misrepresented. Saying that a 600A controller should only be expected to put out 300A is just wrong 

As far as F16bmathis, he had the Kelly rep inspect his set-up and bless it. What more do you want? Maybe the reason you like Kelly controllers so much Pete is because you expect to get half of what you pay for.

Regards,

major


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## Guest (Oct 23, 2010)

> Maybe the reason you like Kelly controllers so much Pete is because you expect to get half of what you pay for.


Nope your wrong. I do expect a controller to handle what it is rated for and if the rating is for 500 amps I expect it will do that but for the given time specified which the poster does not state. Also if he is reading battery amps his expected output will be far less and most folks do drive their EVs at much less than full on throttle. So with that I am only asking if he is reading motor amps or battery amps and how long ago this took place. Both are reasonable requests. The other issue is the rep has no control over the product but he does have control over customer service. So the go ahead from the rep is his expectation of having a good controller. Typical of any sales force. My Kelly has seen near full amps as rated for a short time but continuous is much less as you stated. My OLD Kelly did not provide full rated amps and Kelly HAS stated they need to fix that issue and they did. However if you compare Kelly with Zilla or Soliton1 then they are pretty much like any other controller on the market except the rate of failures is not greater than any other normal controller maker. IE: Alltrax or Curtis. I'd say I have seen more failures from them than kelly but they have also built more over the past decades. Far better than Logitech too. What about those. They died if you pushed them but not a single person complained about that. This thing with Kelly is really just bogus. 


Anyway what is this thing against Kelly Controller still? I agree that they are not the top of the line controllers but then again they are not on the bottom of heap either. I do think they are Good. Not GREAT. 

Pete 

So once again: Where are you reading your amps from? Battery or Motor. 
How long ago did this happen? Last week? Last Year?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

gottdi said:


> Far better than Logitech too.


That's not saying much 



> What about those. They died if you pushed them but not a single person complained about that.


Where have you been? I think there have been quite a lot of negative posts regarding Logitech or Logisystems. I think every one of their controllers has failed and they have gone out of business.



> Anyway what is this thing against Kelly Controller still?


My thing is not against Kelly, it is against what I consider to be incorrect information such as this: 


gottdi said:


> Remember that the rated amps is peak and not continuous so of course your controller will only put out in general half or less than the peak. That is how all controllers work. That is how they are rated. I would never expect my 650 amp Kelly to pump out a full 650 for any length of time. That 650 amps is for a mere seconds.


Mere seconds is 60 or 120. Mere minutes. From a standstill, full throttle acceleration, I would expect to see current limit amps on the meter every time, even if it is battery current. And if I going uphill, I would expect the controller to put out full rated current for a minute or two, depending on how that particular unit was rated and the temperature at which it started the hill climb.

I have tested controllers looking at the waveform. To do this, I run full throttle into a stalled motor for 20 to 30 seconds. The motor current will set there at the RMS current limit value. A good controller will output its rated current for more than mere seconds.

Regards,

major


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## Guest (Oct 23, 2010)

> I have tested controllers


Kelly Controllers? 


General Specifications:
• Frequency of Operation: 16.6kHz.
• Standby Battery Current: < 0.5mA.
• Controller supply voltage range, PWR, 10V to 30V(24V is preferred).
• Standard Throttle Input: 0-5 Volts(3-wire resistive pot).
• Supply Current, 200mA @ 12V, or 2.5W.
• Configurable battery voltage range, B+. Max operating range: 18V to 136V.
• Full Power Temperature Range: 0℃ to 40℃ (controller case temperature).
• Operating Temperature Range: -30℃ to 90℃, 100℃ shutdown (controller case temperature).
• Motor Current Limit, 1 minutes: 1200A
• Motor Current Limit, continuous:600A 


I would expect this to live within the limits posted. 

I am very much aware of the logitech issues but the complaints are that they just crap out. No complaints of well they don't live up to the ratings posted. I'd almost bet that the amp gauge is on the battery side and giving a false reading. As with any component they can and do die but a good amount of time it is not the fault of the company but of the operator/installer. Yes Major there are lots of folks who do not know what they are doing and should not be doing things such as building an electric car. I have heard more stories about curtis controllers giving up the smoke than I have from a few Kelly users. I don't fault Kelly or Curtis.


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## Guest (Oct 23, 2010)

I'd like F16BMathis to respond to my simple questions. 

Pete


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## F16bmathis (Jun 6, 2008)

Sorry, I don't wait refreshing the computer all day, I was re-wiring and then driving. Came back to the computer and I've got someone saying not to wire in the plug connection on the Curtis, but Curtis's manual doesn't show not connecting it, so...

The Kelly's blew some time ago, about 2 years now, so maybe they are better, but back then, I paid a cheap price for a cheap controller that said it would pull 500 motor amps for what - a minute or something, but I NEVER saw more than 250 or 300. (It was a long time ago). I had a huge heat sink attached to it, but it wouldn't get anwhere near 500 even when cold. I put in the Curtis, and it was like night and day, same 500 amp sized controller, but went from 35 mph with a Kelly to 65! Curtis. The Kelly controller rep helped with wiring and we could never get it up to the "rated" amps. Nice guy, very helpful. I was using LA Trojan T-105's. They pulled 1000 amps with the Zilla. (Had to do it once!) I currently have Thundersky's 160AH.

My truck currently has the Curtis in it, meter attached to the battery side, so that explains the lower amps, and maybe it just being used to the ZIlla, but I had the Zilla set to a max of 500 cause of the LA's, but the 500A Curtis seems slow... and I've got this plug wireing thing to deal with... Plus I think I pissed off some people discussing my bad experience with Kelly controllers.

Whatever, trucks running pretty good, plug wire installed. LV Plug wiring as shown in Curtis 1231C manual is not connected that way. Curtis Manual does not show not connecting B+, B-, M-, and A2 connections, so I've got them all wired as in the manual in figure 10. Runs fine.

Kelly may have started making controllers that actually reach their rated amps, but they didn't when I bought them.

Thats all the answers I've got for now. Actually have more questions elsewhere...


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## F16bmathis (Jun 6, 2008)

The Kelly controller never got me faster than 35, stuck in a same amperage Curtis and got to 65! It was some time ago, about 2 yrs, but man was I pissed when even the rep couldn't fix it. Then he talked me into upgrading to a 650, and it still couldn't get to 500A even when cold!

Maybe they are better now, but they were worthless back then.


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## F16bmathis (Jun 6, 2008)

Hey, I've got so many replies I'm going through.

The Kelly was about 2 yrs ago, it was controller to motor amps. LA batteries, that I got to 1000 amps with a Zilla once (or twice) and with the Kelly, the truck wouldn't do over 35. Threw in a Curtis 500 and I was doing 65! And yeah, I've got video of both versions!

So yeah, it was the older controller, but I'm dead against them. I'd rather pay a few extra bucks and get a proven Curtis. Though I'm going to sell mine as soon as my Zilla gets back from Otmar. (I killed the Zilla, left the cabinet lid off and my hood cracked open overnight and it rained)


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## Guest (Oct 24, 2010)

It is good to know that your experience was that long ago. When you say they are bad folks will think it is something that happen recently. It really hurts business. Yes the first Kelly Controllers were very weak and they did fix the issues. Yes some got the crappy ones and that hurt their business. It's too bad that things like this still surface and again hurt. I do have one of the early ones and one of the new ones. The new ones are much better than the older ones. It only pisses folks off who do have good Kelly Controllers to hear that they are bunk. They WERE bunk. Now they are good and even getting better. The ratings are excellent for the newest HV controllers. Can't complain. They even offered me a controller to put into a race car and if I bust it they pay the price. So when I can I will take them up on the offer. I am a beta tester for them. That is the reason for the offer. I'd love to kill a controller for them. 

Pete


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## F16bmathis (Jun 6, 2008)

gottdi said:


> It is good to know... When you say they are bad folks...


Have never said they were bad folks,  actually went as far to say the Rep was very helpful.

Glad to hear they got them working good.


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

gottdi said:


> ...When you say they are bad folks will think it is something that happen recently.





F16bmathis said:


> Have never said they were bad folks,  actually went as far to say the Rep was very helpful....


Nah, what Pete probably meant to write instead of the quoted sentence above was, "when you say they are bad, folks will think it is something that happened recently."


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## Jozzer (Mar 29, 2009)

Have you tried/seen the new range of improved design controllers tessarect, or are you still going by your inspection of the old silver bodied controllers? These are a different beast, and happily give rated power for rated times on the dyno.

Steve


Tesseract said:


> Nah, what Pete probably meant to write instead of the quoted sentence above was, "when you say they are bad, folks will think it is something that happened recently."


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## Qer (May 7, 2008)

Jozzer said:


> Have you tried/seen the new range of improved design controllers tessarect, or are you still going by your inspection of the old silver bodied controllers?


Um. That was rather uncalled for, really. Tesseract only commented on the English grammar and last time I checked that wasn't labelled "made in China". 

You might want to make sure your aim is true before you pull the trigger...


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## Jozzer (Mar 29, 2009)

That was uncalled for also Qer, I only asked if he had tried/seen the new controller I don't recall pulling a trigger..

Steve



Qer said:


> Um. That was rather uncalled for, really. Tesseract only commented on the English grammar and last time I checked that wasn't labelled "made in China".
> 
> You might want to make sure your aim is true before you pull the trigger...


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

Jozzer said:


> That was uncalled for also Qer, I only asked if he had tried/seen the new controller I don't recall pulling a trigger..
> 
> Steve


Good grief, people, I was only correcting what I saw to be a misinterpretation of grammar that radically changed the meaning of a sentence, I wasn't commenting on Kelly's new controllers.

And, really, Steve, why should I ever comment on a Kelly controller again? No one would ever think I was being unbiased (and, well, they'd probably be right) so why bother?

That said, I don't see what is so prasieworthy about delivering rated power for rated time on a dyno - that ought to be a given, in my opinion.


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## Jozzer (Mar 29, 2009)

Lol, alright, alright...I only asked!

I only even mentioned they give full rated power because I know that's something that has changed with newer kelly controllers. Since this is what the topic is about I thought the information from someone who has tested them extensivly might be appreciated.

Steve


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## Guest (Oct 25, 2010)

Tesseract said:


> Good grief, people, I was only correcting what I saw to be a misinterpretation of grammar that radically changed the meaning of a sentence, I wasn't commenting on Kelly's new controllers.


Oh my, how things get out of hand when they are taken out of context. Yes it was my mistake to forget the comma in my comment. It did radically change the meaning. Something that is quite common and one I try to avoid for this very reason. Language and grammar are very important. 

I still think the controller you guys built is on the top of the heap now. Damn nice controller. I almost foresee some in our near future. I still have my Synkro but for other projects I see the Soliton. 

One project will retain the Kelly for now.

Thanks for pointing out the grammar fault and making the correction. 

Pete


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Jozzer said:


> I only even mentioned they give full rated power because I know that's something that has changed with newer kelly controllers. Since this is what the topic is about I thought the information from someone who has tested them extensivly might be appreciated.





> the new range of improved design controllers


Hi Steve,

Information like that is always good to see. I have a question. Kelly has dozens of controllers listed on the web site. If I order one, how do I know it will be one which delivers full rated current or one of those which will not?

Regards,

major


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## Jozzer (Mar 29, 2009)

Hi Major,

Send them a mail and start communications, they are pretty freindly. The one I have most experience is the KDHE 1200A 120v model, got about 8 in the feild, and have many hours of dyno time with them. Still a young product, but a whole leap forward from the KDHB's of yesteryear (had maybe 5 in the feild, only one still in service of any kind).
If I thought for one minite that I could utilise the full potential of the Soliton on our vehicles I would have tried one already, despite it being much larger than a controller should be on a motorcycle! Kelly don't offer an alternative to the Zilla or the Soliton yet (eg, 300v 1000+A), but they easily exceed our power needs for the moment. I believe a 1700A version is available at this voltage..

Steve




major said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> Information like that is always good to see. I have a question. Kelly has dozens of controllers listed on the web site. If I order one, how do I know it will be one which delivers full rated current or one of those which will not?
> 
> ...


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## Guest (Oct 26, 2010)

major said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> Information like that is always good to see. I have a question. Kelly has dozens of controllers listed on the web site. If I order one, how do I know it will be one which delivers full rated current or one of those which will not?
> 
> ...


Major, 

They revamped the entire line of controllers.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Well!!!!! 

Now, after all this debate, I need to test it!...













Kelly controller KDHD 156V 1000A......... to be continued!!


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## Visionofficer (Apr 28, 2013)

I have found the opposite is true. I have a 156V KDH controller with a 2,500 pound vehicle. It won't deliver more than 180 amps at full throttle. That's not enough to get more than 45 miles an hour. No racing success here. Now, for the really bad part. The serial port is DOA. After two computers (32 and 64 bit) three drivers, and two cables (along with the Kelly adapter) and a half dozen emails back and forth to Kelly tech service in China, nothing. Tech service asks questions like, "Are you sure the power is on?" We were really nice to begin with, but they have been getting more and more useless. Can you say REFUND?


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## Jozzer (Mar 29, 2009)

Visionofficer said:


> I have found the opposite is true. I have a 156V KDH controller with a 2,500 pound vehicle. It won't deliver more than 180 amps at full throttle. That's not enough to get more than 45 miles an hour. No racing success here. Now, for the really bad part. The serial port is DOA. After two computers (32 and 64 bit) three drivers, and two cables (along with the Kelly adapter) and a half dozen emails back and forth to Kelly tech service in China, nothing. Tech service asks questions like, "Are you sure the power is on?" We were really nice to begin with, but they have been getting more and more useless. Can you say REFUND?


You can say it, but I doubt you'll get it!
These last couple of years we've had a number of Kelly's that didn't perform as "standard" - ie, in a box of 4, 3 will deliver close to rated current (for short periods at least), the last will only manage 20% or so. Despite years fo dealing with them I get the same useless questions ("is it turned on? Does the throttle work?"), and when I return them they send them back saying it works perfectly - I test again and still no good.
Shame to say I've given up on them and no longer sell any Kelly products - QC and support is getting worse, and no two controllers are ever the same..


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## gunnarhs (Apr 24, 2012)

Tesseract said:


> Seems to me that doing the thermal analysis and providing the means for the controller to shed heat should be the responsibility of the controller manufacturer, not the customer.


Yes this is the (big) difference between the 1000$ and 3000$ product I would assume You get what you pay for


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## gunnarhs (Apr 24, 2012)

Yabert said:


> Thanks all for the interestings comment.
> It's frustrating to purchase a big 11 in DC motor for 200$ and need to pay 3000$ to have a good controller to drive it........


I am sorry to inform you that if you want to use the motor full (continous)power this is the deal. It is more expensive though to make your own controller
Kelly is fine up to 30kW continous Power (aircooled with sink) and they hav a really nice software (which must though be configured correctly, best to contact their service)


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## Visionofficer (Apr 28, 2013)

I would not recommend the Kelly controller for anything but a scooter. Their quality is about 20% fallout, and if you get one of the bad ones, you're hosed. No refunds, and technical service is non-existent. I really dislike being ripped off, and I know you do too. This is strictly BUYER BEWARE!!


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