# Allen bradley 98kva motor controller



## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Allen Bradley cat 1336S-B075-AA-EN-HA2-l6 , 98kva 0-400 hz motor controller. this has no dc bus rating on the tag . I picked it up at the junk yard for 200.00 . i'm hopping i can run this off a high volt pack ,missing the resolver board and the key pad.200 lbs heavy steel box and big alu heat exchanger.


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

The specific controller is meant for ac voltage from 380V to 480V. If you are stripping the drive as you suggest, you can tap directly into the bus capacitors. Remember to add some current limiting for the start-up current. If you are worried about going directly on to the capacitors, pick any two phases, connect the polarity any way you want, and accept the 1.4V drop. This way you might already have some inrush limiting (not sure, didn't check the manual)

DC Bus undervoltage trip is set for 400V and overvoltage trip is 810V, so the drive is usable on any DC Voltage between these two. I woukd size the pack so that the lowest voltage under maximum load at 80% DoD is still above 400V, as thse drive react quite quickly on the ondervoltage trip. The nominal Bus voltage is specified as 648V - use that as a guideline.

The drive can be used for regenerative braking and also have a transistor drive for a brake resistor. It also have an early version of flux vector technology, which should enhance low speed control.

The normal maximum current rating of the drive is 120A and the maximum allowed 192A for each phase. The current demand from the pack should be 213A maximum for nominal current and 341A for the maximum allowed.

The drive is rated for 220% instantaneous current overload. This is hardware limited and would be difficult to hack. This drive is designed with a standard 75hp motor with a 400 - 460V rating in mind.

Check out the Australian EV sites for people rewinding smaller motors for use in EV's- it is really worthwhile.

Hope you have fun
Dawid


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

I forgot to mention - the keypad on most AB drives is removable - they are available from AB resellers. You are going to need it and a manual to get your motor working.

Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

DawidvC said:


> I forgot to mention - the keypad on most AB drives is removable - they are available from AB resellers. You are going to need it and a manual to get your motor working.
> 
> Dawid


Dawid ,thanks that's great news .Sounds like a winner.how would you get the manual? I wanted to set up a 3 phase inverter as a side project (60 hertz) for welding inverter etc,would this work?. I have Toyota pries motor / trans axle (2 for 4 wheel drive ) 2 or more pm motors running off this inverter is the idea . the chassis would be a 124 MB estate (wagon) 1986-95 4matic . PS welcome to the forum


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## Coulomb (Apr 22, 2009)

aeroscott said:


> ...2 or more pm motors running off this inverter is the idea.


Two cautions: the drive might only be set up for induction drives. Most drives have a parameter to set for permanent magnet motors; they have to know not to be able to slip PM motors. Edit: this is another reason to find the manual for this drive. Drives typically have scores of numeric settings; without the manual, you are flying blind. You might get away with defaults for a ~400 VAC induction motor. You could try Googling for the manual; otherwise, you'll have to find someone else with a similar drive, or buy or beg for one from the manufacturer.

The other one relates to more than one PM motor on a single drive. PM motors are like giant stepper motors; their mechanical motion is locked completely to their electrical field position. Two motors in parallel (or series if you can manage it) will have identical electrical positions, so the mechanical positions will be locked like with gears. So I think you'll have problems with 4WD wind-up. Induction motors slip, so it's no problem for one motor to slip a little more or less than the other to share power and prevent wind-up, certainly for front/rear motors. (Left-wheel paralleled with right-wheel motors may not be able to accommodate the extreme (20%?) speed difference when turning; this is yet to be tested as far as I know.)

I wish I could tap into the junked AC drive supply chain; congrats on your find.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Coulomb said:


> Two cautions: the drive might only be set up for induction drives. Most drives have a parameter to set for permanent magnet motors; they have to know not to be able to slip PM motors. Edit: this is another reason to find the manual for this drive. Drives typically have scores of numeric settings; without the manual, you are flying blind. You might get away with defaults for a ~400 VAC induction motor. You could try Googling for the manual; otherwise, you'll have to find someone else with a similar drive, or buy or beg for one from the manufacturer.
> 
> The other one relates to more than one PM motor on a single drive. PM motors are like giant stepper motors; their mechanical motion is locked completely to their electrical field position. Two motors in parallel (or series if you can manage it) will have identical electrical positions, so the mechanical positions will be locked like with gears. So I think you'll have problems with 4WD wind-up. Induction motors slip, so it's no problem for one motor to slip a little more or less than the other to share power and prevent wind-up, certainly for front/rear motors. (Left-wheel paralleled with right-wheel motors may not be able to accommodate the extreme (20%?) speed difference when turning; this is yet to be tested as far as I know.)
> 
> I wish I could tap into the junked AC drive supply chain; congrats on your find.


thanks for your input , i could unload one motor momentarily or find another drive . what do you think of running as a inverter for my inverter welder .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

I saw someone trying to run two mechanically coupled motors with one of these drives. I would not advise you to run more than ONE motor of any kind of these drives at the same time. You would also need an encoder or similar digital feedback device to get the drive working properly.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

DawidvC said:


> I saw someone trying to run two mechanically coupled motors with one of these drives. I would not advise you to run more than ONE motor of any kind of these drives at the same time. You would also need an encoder or similar digital feedback device to get the drive working properly.


 i picked up parts from a secound drive yesterday , no cards or caps but i have lots of caps from inverter welders . liquid heat exchangers from grid tie inverters .I hope to lighten and make this unit smaller with this . found some of the manuals , but not the main one yet. Do you think should repackage or stay stock on the cabnet. I planed to stay stock on the first unit and repackage the secound .I found some of the boards on ebay a little expensive .i have the L6 board 115 volt ( less encoder ) does this mean I need a differant l6E card .


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## Coulomb (Apr 22, 2009)

DawidvC said:


> You would also need an encoder or similar digital feedback device to get the drive working properly.


? Plenty of industrial motors run off VFDs with no encoder or resolver. Granted, when running open loop like this (the encoder is needed to close the speed control loop), they won't be able to drive the motor all they way to its maximum performance, so an encoder is generally advisable for EV use.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Coulomb said:


> ? Plenty of industrial motors run off VFDs with no encoder or resolver. Granted, when running open loop like this (the encoder is needed to close the speed control loop), they won't be able to drive the motor all they way to its maximum performance, so an encoder is generally advisable for EV use.


I'm a big believer in encoder and like the supper accurate resolver . this L6 card says (less encoder) so I guess finding L6E card with encoder . then there's a interface box slc I think that allows up to 3 vfds , 1 for ac and 2 drive units . it would be one hot system ,lets see at full power oh say ten minutes to kill a 50kw pack . thinking about sr motors but thats a new controller .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

These AB 1336 (or Force) drives use an old version of Flux Vector Technology. To use the Flux Vector capabilities you NEED an encoder. Without the encoder you starting torque would be much less, you will not be able to regen down to standstill and your speed and current regulation will suffer.

If you feel you do not need the extra capabilities of flux vector, feel free to run without an encoder. Personally I will not recommend running without one. 

There are plenty of cheap encoders on the market today. Please choose one that work with the drive.

Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

DawidvC said:


> These AB 1336 (or Force) drives use an old version of Flux Vector Technology. To use the Flux Vector capabilities you NEED an encoder. Without the encoder you starting torque would be much less, you will not be able to regen down to standstill and your speed and current regulation will suffer.
> 
> If you feel you do not need the extra capabilities of flux vector, feel free to run without an encoder. Personally I will not recommend running without one.
> 
> ...


 I completely agree , will the manual give the encoder parameters


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

It has been a long time since I last worked on one of these, but all Allen-Bradley drives specify the type of encoder that can be used. Typical values would be 1024 pulse 5V.

If you can get away with a lower pulse count on the encoder, it would be cheaper. The encoder need to be robust and sealed for this application.

Happy hunting
Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

waiting to hear on a programer and maybe a manual .the programing terminals are 1201-HAP , 1201-HAZ . I'll see about encoders . thanks


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

downloaded the manual, been going over it , can't find aneything on dc operation . at 180 pages I my have missed it .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

This controller was never meant for DC operation. You have to either open up the case and access the capacitors directly, or else use any two of the input terminals for your DC input. This last will give you access to the build-in protection of the drive against the inrush current of the capacitors, so it is easiest to do it this way.

As long as you keep your external pack between 400V and 810V, the drive will be happy.

Dawid


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## Coulomb (Apr 22, 2009)

DawidvC said:


> ...use any two of the input terminals for your DC input. This last will give you access to the build-in protection of the drive against the inrush current of the capacitors, so it is easiest to do it this way.


Be aware that 98 kVA is about the size where the inrush protection may be implemented as phase controlled SCRs on the upper half of the 3-phase bridge. That's how it is in our Control Techniques 75/90 kW controller. Obviously, the SCRs are not going to inrush protect with DC at the input. So I'd check out the input circuit first; the SCRs should be easy to identify by their 3 leads compared to 2 on the diodes. You may well need your own precharge resistor and contactor.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Coulomb said:


> Be aware that 98 kVA is about the size where the inrush protection may be implemented as phase controlled SCRs on the upper half of the 3-phase bridge. That's how it is in our Control Techniques 75/90 kW controller. Obviously, the SCRs are not going to inrush protect with DC at the input. So I'd check out the input circuit first; the SCRs should be easy to identify by their 3 leads compared to 2 on the diodes. You may well need your own precharge resistor and contactor.


I was just looking over the SCRs ,3 doubles . I though they were for brake control . inputs are PE,PE,TE .outputs are DC+brake, DC-brake . been checking the encoder on prius 6 wire resolver , if I'm wright 2 power wires 4 quadrature . need to determine if volts etc are a match . encoder cards are ttl, 24 volt ,115volt which would be the best . thanks ,john


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## Coulomb (Apr 22, 2009)

aeroscott said:


> I was just looking over the SCRs ,3 doubles . I though they were for brake control.


I don't think SCRs would be used for brake control; you need IGBTs for that, so the current can be stopped once started. As far as I know, the brake is always on the DC side, as seems to be indicated by the signal names nearby. So these are likely small IGBTs for the brake.

Three doubles also sounds too much for just the brake; the brake needs just a single IGBT. I've never heard of combined SCR IBBT modules, but that doesn't mean there aren't any.

The mains input circuit is usually pretty easy to trace, since it's always done with heavy cables. I'd do a bit more tracing before connecting a battery across two inputs.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Coulomb said:


> I don't think SCRs would be used for brake control; you need IGBTs for that, so the current can be stopped once started. As far as I know, the brake is always on the DC side, as seems to be indicated by the signal names nearby. So these are likely small IGBTs for the brake.
> 
> Three doubles also sounds too much for just the brake; the brake needs just a single IGBT. I've never heard of combined SCR IBBT modules, but that doesn't mean there aren't any.
> 
> The mains input circuit is usually pretty easy to trace, since it's always done with heavy cables. I'd do a bit more tracing before connecting a battery across two inputs.


thanks I'll look it over . they maybe igbts . If so that would be the inrush protection , yes?


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## Coulomb (Apr 22, 2009)

aeroscott said:


> thanks I'll look it over . they maybe igbts . If so that would be the inrush protection , yes?


I haven't seen IGBTs used for inrush protection, though I suppose it's possible. I would think that their voltage drop would waste too much power, though SCRs might be similar I guess.

Perhaps a photo would be helpful here?


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## Coulomb (Apr 22, 2009)

Coulomb said:


> I haven't seen IGBTs used for inrush protection...


Ooh, from page 2-6 (PDF page 16) of this:

http://literature.rockwellautomation.com/idc/groups/literature/documents/um/1336s-um001_-en-p.pdf

it says:

_"When AC power is removed, there will be a loss of inherent regenerative
braking effect & the motor will coast to a stop."_

Ooh, regen into the AC supply? That's a new one on me. That might explain the lack of DC terminals; these new-fangled (?) drives might regen directly back into the mains....

Oh wait, more likely it means that when the drive loses AC power, the logic stops working, so the brake IGBT drive signals go away, and you lose regen for that reason.

I've only skimmed the above manual. Maybe there are more clues in there somewhere.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Coulomb said:


> Ooh, from page 2-6 (PDF page 16) of this:
> 
> http://literature.rockwellautomation.com/idc/groups/literature/documents/um/1336s-um001_-en-p.pdf
> 
> ...


its scr with extra pin on the cathode side


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

this is the same manual I downloaded , i need a wiring diagram


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

I had a quick look in the manual. Your drive has got SCR's for the precharge circuit. You would have to find a way to simulate the signals between the drive controller and precharge circuit. You may be able to use the commands to control your own precharge circuit, and get the feedback needed from your own precharge circuit.

Apparently the drive uses the DC Bus level to detect a phase loss condition, so you can lose the SCR's and SCR driver board. Your connections from your pack would thus go to your precharge circuit and then to the capacitors. Please ensure that your polarity is correct before powering up.

I didn't see any way to change the minimum bus voltage in the software. You might be able to use a hardware hack to cheat the drive to see a higher bus voltage than really exist, but it can result in strange behaviour from the drive.

The basic connections are shown on page 32 of the pdf, with the addisional inputs on page 38 onwards.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

thanks DawidvC , any ideas on the precharge circuit .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Sorry I took so long to reply - working is a necessary evil.

For a basic precharge circuit you would need a small contactor and resistor, plus some sort of control circuit to either time the pregharge circuit, or sense the voltage of the internal capacitors.

To design the precharge circuit, check the total capacitance presented by the capacitors in the drive. Using T = R x C, decide how long you want to do the precharge. I would suggest on the order of 0.5 to 1 second should be enough, if you are willing to invest in high wattage resistors. You can now work out your resistance needed. Go for the nearest value Bigger than calculated.

You can now work out the power dissipation of the precharge resistor, and get one sized appropriately.

To work out the timing, remember that if your pregharge time is 1 second, and you interrupt the charge after 0,5 seconds, you will already be at 67% of your pack voltage. A simple timer set for about 60% of your calculated precharge time will give you the best of both worlds, meaning a reasonable pregharge time, as well as sufficiently high charge in the capacitors to prevent damage to your capacitors on closing your main contactor.

Greetings
Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

thanks dawid , lost the connection on my computer air card for a couple of days , dirty sim card connection . been working on cleaning my stuff off a barge under threat of arrest .its cleared and out of the water . now on to the next thing , more cleaning . it sounds like solid state relay for timing reasons ,variable industrial solid state timer .I should have them , if i can find them .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

You seem to be on the right track. I was thinking in terms of a Star-Delta timer. Do you have an idea how big your capacitance is?


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

I don't know anything about timers ,tell me more ! the caps are 6000's and there are 6 of them . I'll go double check now! Philps 6000UF 400dc-450 surge 105 max ambient


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

just checked , the star part of the sequence charges the caps which is designed to start the motor in star. then .5 second after shutdown of star , delta starts or in our case turns on the main cont actor .?


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Yes! You got that absolutely right. the total capacitance in your system is 18000 microfarads at 900V max.

For a time of 0,5 seconds you need a resistance of 28 ohms.
For a time of 1 second you will need a resistance of 56 ohms.

These resistors should have a value of at least 100 watt.

if you use the 1 second time design, you can set your delta (in your case main) contactor to come in at 0.7 seconds. The capacitors will have charged up enough so that the inrush from the pack will not cause any damage.

Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

dawid , I wondered about the 450 volt max , didn't look the bus over carefully ,3 doubles (series)


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

I know, which is why I worked at 900V maximum for the caps. Pushing them any higher than this will lead to catastrophic failure ( ..got the T-Shirt... ). For your use you only need to consider your pack voltage.

I made a mistake in the calculation of the total capacitance, it should be 9000 microfarad, not 18000. Using my calculation for the timing, you could halve the time taken to reach the same voltage during precharge.

Let me know how it goes.

Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

working on the timer , a friend has a solid state programmable in dc and ac .


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

I found A timer , off delay model No. 6X154G , 1.8-180 sec. by Dayton . contacts rated 1/2 hp @ 240 vac . I have some solid state relays dc rated , voltage is going to be to low.


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Aeroscott - the timer can be used as is for the precharge sequence as is without change if you are willing to put up with longer pre-charge times. A better solution, but more costly, would be to use your timer to switch two contactors, the precharge contactor need only be big enough to withstand the *average* current, but it must have the ability to *switch* the instantaneous current going into the drive. Most decent contactors would have its interrupt current rating together with its normal (average) current rating on it. The other contactor should be rated for the average battery current you would expect in your application.

NB - normally contactors can take at least 5 times its nominal rating for 1 minute without self-destruction, but I had some cheapies blow up on me although I always overrate by 20% (from habit).

I will try to do a small schematic for connection for you to show you how to connect the timer you have.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Dawid thanks much, my solid states are 25 amp , but probably not over 120 volts , I think . can I series them say 6 to handle the higher voltage . or go with a mechanical 3 phase run in series (dc rating 240 v) to get to 720 v.


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Aeroscott - please ignore my previous post. The timer you have seem to be a 110V ac type - can you verify for me what the coil voltage is please?

If you can give me some details of the solid state relays, I might be able to figure something out for you.

Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Yes 120vac 50/60hz . I'll go find the relays


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

well that was fun , I dug into a big pile found 8 ac rated solid states then a 1 foot square aluminium sheet with 13 GT60D10 , GORDOS that's 60 volts dc 10 amps 20 surge .


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

Is this not a 75 hp drive? I believe the "075" in the part number represents the motor hp rating it is suited for.... Is it not a bit over sized for the application? Just wondering. What size would be most suitable? A 75 hp electric motor is huge.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

If you read earlier post buy Dawid , It can peak even higher . Motors industrial rating are very conservative . Dawid posted a link on another thread ( look under all posts by dawid ) about lowering the voltage of a industrial 1/3 hp motor then increasing applied controller voltage increasing efficiency and power without increased heat to about 4.7 hp . If gas cooling were added , power could be further increased .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Aeroscott - very sorry that I took so long to reply to you. The solid state relays cannot be used - if all of them doesn't switch on and off at the same time, you could damage them. If you want to try it, connect as many in series as necessary to reach the desired voltage. I don't know wether it will work.

As another option, try to open the timer that you have. These kind of device normally runs on a power supply of 9 to 15 volt internally. In that case, bypass the transformer and connect direct to the smoothing capacitor ( or if there is no transformer, it would be a large resistor). I will post a diagram on a possible connection for the timer if it can be used.

Regards
Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Hi Dawid , I was wondering if turn on time coordination would be a problem , at 60 vdc it would take 10 of them for 600 vdc . I like the timer , the contacts are only rated at 240 vac . So if I had a 3 phase 240 vdc rated relay ran the dc in series through 3 legs for 720 vdc . Or can I just find a dc relay for 700 to 800 vdc . found solid state unit rated 600 vdc $100.00 , Google search .


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## zaxxon (Jul 11, 2009)

Aeroscott, Not sure of you application. Just wanted to caution you to check into the control modes available in your Industrial Controller. Most just let you set a commanded speed target and not command torque. If your use is for electric vehicle operation you will want to use throttle to control torque not to set a speed. 

You should read the lessons we learned: http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/home-grown-mini-ev-38988p2.html

There may be ways to put an outer current control loop to drive the speed control input to get torque control. I have not tried.


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Aeroscott if that unit can handle the inrush curret, it should be fine. Just finetune your precharge resistor values so that the inrush current stay below the absolute peak that the relay can handle. You really need to get hold of a proper datasheet to see the switching curve of the device.

Are you going to use all the digital outputs of the drive? If you are not, you can get one of them to give you a signal when your dc bus is charged high enough so that your main contactor can come in. Use this digital output to switch one of those small dc solidstate relays, which can then switch your main contactor. That will solve the problem of the timer, You get the drive to do the timing for you .

Regards
Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

zaxxon said:


> Aeroscott, Not sure of you application. Just wanted to caution you to check into the control modes available in your Industrial Controller. Most just let you set a commanded speed target and not command torque. If your use is for electric vehicle operation you will want to use throttle to control torque not to set a speed.
> 
> You should read the lessons we learned: http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/home-grown-mini-ev-38988p2.html
> 
> There may be ways to put an outer current control loop to drive the speed control input to get torque control. I have not tried.


 thanks Zaxxon , I missed that thread , post 21 talks about the A&B 98 enhanced unit has command torque.


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Dawid, opened the timer it has mechanical relay , no transformer ( found the big resister) . I like the digital turn on for the main contactor .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Aeroscott - if you use the high voltage solid state relay, and turn it on direct from the Start switch on your ev, and then use the output on the drive, I think you would dispense with the timers, at the expense of having to wait until you can hear the main contactor make before you let go.

Regards
Dawid


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## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

aeroscott said:


> If you read earlier post buy Dawid , It can peak even higher . Motors industrial rating are very conservative . Dawid posted a link on another thread ( look under all posts by dawid ) about lowering the voltage of a industrial 1/3 hp motor then increasing applied controller voltage increasing efficiency and power without increased heat to about 4.7 hp . If gas cooling were added , power could be further increased .


Hi Scott, my point was not to question the amount of power it could control.....more a question as to what would be the appropriate size AB1336 drive if given a choice. Wouldn't, say..... a 20 hp drive be sufficient?.....

Cheers,


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Diyguy , I just love power , I'm not certin on the minium hp would depend speed , aero , weight . My dad had A BMW Iseta that had less then 15 hp , fun car . 20 hp electric in that would have been hot .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

DIYGuy, please check these posts

http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=1237

The problem today is not the motor, as far as ac motors are concerned, but the drives. Most conventional drives will allow you less than 150% maximum current for a short ( < 1 minute) period of time. Using an invertor sized the same as the motor, will not allow you to get anywhere close to the motors maximum potential. Electric motors, especially S1 rated motors, are very tricky beasts. Manufacturers will typically downrate a motor as well as the torque it deliver, to stay within industry standards. All motors can deliver at least 2.2 x their rated torque, a figure which in any case is rarely quoted. As you will be able to see from the link above, the aussies can get a motor to achieve a lot more power than is readily apparent. Even a standard 240V motor used appropriately in a standard drive with 650V nominal battery pack, can easily deliver a nominal power close to double its rating. Which means that your nominal 20 HP motor can easily deliver 90HP in excess of one minute. There you go - big amp time 

A note to all the regulars - what about a sticky note gathering all these and other AC motor and invertor related questions and answers together?

Regards
Dawid


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

Just found a BEI encoder (H25D-F1-SB-1024-ABZC-28V/V-SN12S) .


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## DawidvC (Feb 14, 2010)

Nice find. We use that same model quite a lot on our motors ( we use Unico drives - they are all flux vector or field orientated control ) so it will work for you. Just make sure that you couple it tightly to the motor, as encoders do not like bumps and knocks. Nice to see you moving forward.

Dawid


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## constructor (Sep 24, 2008)

I have the same unit in the garage. Did you ever successfully powered it of DC?
Also, have anybody considered 400Hz motors? 
I was afraid there is a phase loss protection built in the control. 
Resistive precharge sounds like a lot of loss. May be a simple chopper circuit made on old large BJT and a 555 timer? 
Encoder - have an L6 card. Did power similar unit of 3phase on 40hp motor- no feedback, assumed it is a vector control?


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## aeroscott (Jan 5, 2008)

constructor said:


> I have the same unit in the garage. Did you ever successfully powered it of DC?
> Also, have anybody considered 400Hz motors?
> I was afraid there is a phase loss protection built in the control.
> Resistive precharge sounds like a lot of loss. May be a simple chopper circuit made on old large BJT and a 555 timer?
> Encoder - have an L6 card. Did power similar unit of 3phase on 40hp motor- no feedback, assumed it is a vector control?


 no time working on my ice cars . like the idea of aircraft 400 hz . I need to replace the L6 card with an encoder card . the precharge is such a small load , just partly filling the caps . but a igbt can work .


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