# EV Conversion kit for sportscars? Do they exist?



## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

I would look into getting a warp 9"/11" motor, with a controller capable of 1K-2K Amps , with 16 high cranking AGM batteries.

That combo would give you very good acceleration if you wanted it...If you were to cruise and hypermill you could probaby squeeze 20-30 miles out of it....


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## Deffe (Jun 16, 2008)

Bowser330 said:


> I would look into getting a warp 9"/11" motor, with a controller capable of 1K-2K Amps , with 16 high cranking AGM batteries.
> 
> That combo would give you very good acceleration if you wanted it...If you were to cruise and hypermill you could probaby squeeze 20-30 miles out of it....


Would it be enough to in theory be able to get to 60mph in 5seconds or less?

Im planing to just have some fun with it and to drive it a bit on a track and back and forth to my job and such. 

But the acceleration is important for me. 

Will look at the prices for what you recommended, but what I know the engine is cheap like $2k.


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## Cornelius (Sep 15, 2007)

You probably won't find a kit unless you are doing a popular conversion like a Rabbit, Geo, S-10 or Porsche 914. But that's not a problem, as it is fairly easy to select your own components. Besides, then you get exactly what you want.

For high performance, you can skip flooded lead batteries like the ones I use in my S-10. Flooded lead batteries are good for about 500 amps maximum. That's fine for a pick up truck, but if you want a fast ride, you'll need some serious amps. That means using the absorbed glass mat batteries Bowser suggested. Next, you'll need a Zilla controller. The expensive 2000 amp model. An air cooled Curtis won't provide the level of performance you are looking for. An Advanced DC or Netgain Warp 9" would be the minimum. The 11" Warp or using two 9" motors will provide greater performance.

Check out Matt Graham's Joule Injected Nissan 240SX for some ideas:

http://www.jouleinjected.com/


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## Whitey_87 (May 30, 2008)

I want to do something similar to the Jouleinjected nissan. I was wondering if anyone knows what his reduction ratio is for the differential...or does it not really matter since he is using two motors that provide a huge amount of power?

Thanks.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

I think the 2000 amp zilla is way over priced...then again im not sure how much a raptor 1200 amp costs..I dont imagine it costs over 1000$ does it?

Point is with 200V and 1000amp surge you will have 200kW of power at zero rpm...run that through a warp 11" and you are good to go, its more efficient than the dual motor setup which only has 60% i read somewhere...although the dual has superior performance..but i think the 11" with the 1000amps will be plenty enough to get 0-60 in 5 sec as long as its not a heavy donor...


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## Whitey_87 (May 30, 2008)

As I keep reading about the components I need to buy I realized that warp motors are 72 volt - the OP would not want to go below 144V right? That would mean dual motors or are there any 144V motors out there?


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Warp motors can be run at much higher than 72 volts, up to 192 I think, maybe higher.


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## Manntis (May 22, 2008)

I went with a 1985 Mazda RX-7, myself, and selected a motor that can give decent snap off the line and good acceleration and highway cruising using 3rd and 4th gears.


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## Whitey_87 (May 30, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> Warp motors can be run at much higher than 72 volts, up to 192 I think, maybe higher.


Thanks for clearing that up. So the 5,500 rpm rating they have on each motor is at 72 volts? That is confusing to me, why would they not say what the max voltage is? Looking at their specs, I took 72 to be the max voltage.

Since the voltage can go higher that means the rpm, torque, and amp ratings on the site will go up with it?

I have a pretty good sized budget for my conversion. I was wondering if I went with the Warp 13 if it would crumple my unibody car like a beer can? Also is there any real advantage of using a Transwarp motor over a warp moter, other than it looks like better bearings and it comes with the slip yoke? - I am still planning direct drive to the differential.


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I think the Warp13 would be overkill and you'd be carrying around all that extra weight and rarely using the full power potential even if you could carry enough battery to power it. If you're going direct drive the TransWarp11 makes it easy to just bolt in a drive shaft and connect it to the diff.


> Since the voltage can go higher that means the rpm, torque, and amp ratings on the site will go up with it?


You got it.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> I think the Warp13 would be overkill and you'd be carrying around all that extra weight and rarely using the full power potential even if you could carry enough battery to power it. If you're going direct drive the TransWarp11 makes it easy to just bolt in a drive shaft and connect it to the diff.
> 
> You got it.


If you have 20K$ to do the conversion and a lightweight donor..I say you do a conversion like this guy...This guy is on the right track...

http://www.evalbum.com/1651

Batteries = 300/unit 40 units = 12K$ ( I would get 10 more to make it 50 units and get 160V, 15K$)

Motor = Warp 11" = 2500$

Controller = Zilla 1K = 1500$

19K$ for the three most exp. pieces of the conversion.

See the website for potential stats...Car can get up to 100mph...presumably damn good acceleration with the Warp 11" (160v with 800 surging amps)...100 mile presumed range...

With a lightweight donor and good aerodynamics you could get a really low average watt-hr/mile value.

check out this guy, http://www.autobloggreen.com/2007/1...ombine-great-aerodynamic-and-a-um-stunning-l/

95mpg???? wow!

combining the ideas of EV with the aero-civic might seriously get some awesome range...


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## Nate (Jul 10, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> I think the Warp13 would be overkill and you'd be carrying around all that extra weight and rarely using the full power potential even if you could carry enough battery to power it.


*The Warp 13 would use more power than the Warp 11 for the same amount of work or the warp 13 is capable of using more power if you want to produce more power? Thanks for the info.*


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I think both. The only reason I can see to get a Warp13 is if you have a large heavy vehicle that really needs all that power most of the time. Or you want to go really really fast  You should be able to go plenty fast with a Warp11 and enough voltage and controller.


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## madderscience (Jun 28, 2008)

For what its worth, the motor itself in an EV has less to do with the final performance than the controller and batteries, and overall weight do. The motor would have to be prepped and tuned properly to handle the abuse of going WAY over its continuous ratings in a high performance EV of course, but even 8" and 9" advanced DC motors can give very good performance. I think most people on this list have heard of John Wayland's "white zombie" street-legal electric dragster. It has a Z2k and a siamese 8" motor and does 0-60 in 3.something seconds with lead batteries, but the battery pack is around 300 volts I believe. However he also has another datsun 1200, "blue meanie" with a single advanced DC 9" and a Z1K controller and a 156v battery pack and it does 0-60 in around 6 seconds. With lead acid, both of these cars have ranges around 40 miles I believe, but look at his website:

http://www.plasmaboyracing.com

... for details straight from the source.

A really big motor like an 11" or 13" would probably be more detrimental to the top end speed due to the characteristics of such large motors to favor torque over RPM. You would get off the line in an axle-twisting hurry but run out of oomph fast.


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## paker (Jun 20, 2008)

Nate said:


> *The Warp 13 would use more power than the Warp 11 for the same amount of work or the warp 13 is capable of using more power if you want to produce more power? Thanks for the info.*


Why would a Warp 13 use more power then the Warp 11? A larger motor makes more torque and draws fewer amps than a smaller motor at the same RPM.


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Well the warp13 is large enough that just moving it's extra weight will take more energy. Also the performance charts for the two show lower efficiency for the warp13, though you are correct about the amperage. Hmmm
http://www.go-ev.com/images/003_20_WarP_11_SpreadSheet.jpg
http://www.go-ev.com/images/003_22_WarP_13_SER_SpreadSheet.jpg
Maybe it's less efficient at lower voltages.


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## Yaggo (Jul 9, 2008)

Deffe said:


> I want something that can get me to 60mph in 5 seconds or less and also work as a daily commuter.
> 
> Car specifications:
> 
> ...


180 HP is a peak power and actually doesn't tell very much. A power curve is more informative.

Let's do some math. You want to accelerate 1200 kg of mass to 60 mph in 5 secs. As E = 0.5 * mv^2, we need 0.5 * 1200 kg * (26.8 m/s)^2 = 431 kJ of energy. Add 10% for losses (transmission, air drag, etc) and we get roughly 480 kJ. As Joule is actually Ws or Watt * second, that's 480.000 Ws. In order to generate that much energy in 5 seconds, the averate power must be 480.000 Ws / 5 s = 96 kW. (Note: 10% for losses is just a guess, in high speeds it may be more.)

AC motor usually has linear power curve up to the certain RPM / peak power (not sure about DC). Because of this linearity, average power is 0.5 * peak power. Thus we need a motor with peak power of 2 * 96 kW = 192 kW (~ 260 HP). Whether an AC, DC, ICE or fusion reactor was chosen, we cannot ignore this law of physics.

How does this compare to HPs of ICE? Well, not very straightforwardly, because ICE has not linear power curve (less torque in lower RPM, thus less power, since power is torque * RPM). Average power of ICE is less than 0.5 * peak power. So as a thumb of rule, you don't need as much peak power in electric conversion as the ICE had.

Even less power is needed, if motor's RPM range matches with car's final ratio and your top speed requirement, making a gearbox (+clutch) useless. Without the gearbox you save maybe 5% in losses, 20 kg in weight, few kilos in rotating mass and what's important in real life, maybe a second or half in shifting time (unless you're pro who can shift very fast).

So, when accelerating from red lights, with electric car you just floor the pedal, while your co-drivers in their ICE cars need many expensive fractions of second just to couple the clutch. Here we see the benefits from the beautiful simplicity of electric car!

If you are looking for impressive acceleration with limited budget, try to choose lightest possible donor car, since power requirements quickly increases with mass. Also remember that your real world performance is probably better with EV than "official" rating of ICE car, since no practising and ideal conditions is needed to take out all the power. However, with 0-60 mph less than 5 secs takes you to supercar class and it will cost you much, I bet.

Hope this gives you some ideas!


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