# [evdl] Dc/ Dc



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

Hi EVerybody;

BEST argument I've heard yet this year for the Alternater!Using the one 
the car CAME with and is used to, too. Belt drive yur vacuum pump along with 
it, a "Wraparound"pully, belt setup?Although my Sevcom DC to dc has lived 
through 2 cars with no issues, I'd think twice, IF I had to BUY another 
one!? I just leave it "on" and forgetabout it!I'll probably go Alternator 
when I run out of Sevcons?

Seeya in the New Year.

Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Electric Blue auto convertions" <[email protected]>
To: "ev" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 10:16 AM
Subject: [EVDL] DC/ DC


>
>
> AGAIN THINK !!!!! if your car has ABS brakes, you need 50 amps right out 
> of the box to have brakes, a DC / DC converter at best gives 40 amps at 
> full power, Ok you turn the key on and POP, there goes your wonder box, so 
> go buy another one and then POP it happens again. People!!!!! USE an 
> Altenator, they work, up to 130 amps. there, not effected by moisture, 
> viberations, stupid people,more than enough for any system any one is 
> makeing, and you cant argue aginst it, Unless your to lazy to build a 
> bracket to mount it with a pully of the front of the motor,,ABS, Heater 
> fans, lights, wipers, dumb radios Turn signals, where do you think all 
> that usages comes from???? the 12 volt batery? think again, think simple, 
> think right
>
> Wayne ev-blue.com
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> 

_______________________________________________
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

Wayne =

YOu said if your car has ABS brakes, you need 50
amps right out of the box to have brakes
I know next to nothing about ABS systems well maybe enough to spell it.
Why do they draw 50 amp?

Dan Bentler


--- On Thu, 1/1/09, Electric Blue auto convertions <[email protected]=


> .com> wrote:
> 
> > From: Electric Blue auto convertions <[email protected]>
> > Subject: [EVDL] DC/ DC
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

I been running a pulley driven alternator since 1985, and the car has not 
blown up yet. Always got to where I need to go. Do not have to discharge 
the main battery pack down to zero to where I need to go.

I try two DC-DC converters parallel together, but was always over charging 
the battery at the 14.5 V setting or undercharge at the 13.5 V setting.

I am using a 135 amp alternator with external regulator control settings 
that is design for charging a deep cycle 135 AH 12 v battery.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Electric Blue auto convertions" <[email protected]>
To: "ev" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: [EVDL] DC/ DC


>
>
> AGAIN THINK !!!!! if your car has ABS brakes, you need 50 amps right out 
> of the box to have brakes, a DC / DC converter at best gives 40 amps at 
> full power, Ok you turn the key on and POP, there goes your wonder box, so 
> go buy another one and then POP it happens again. People!!!!! USE an 
> Altenator, they work, up to 130 amps. there, not effected by moisture, 
> viberations, stupid people,more than enough for any system any one is 
> makeing, and you cant argue aginst it, Unless your to lazy to build a 
> bracket to mount it with a pully of the front of the motor,,ABS, Heater 
> fans, lights, wipers, dumb radios Turn signals, where do you think all 
> that usages comes from???? the 12 volt batery? think again, think simple, 
> think right
>
> Wayne ev-blue.com
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> 

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

Roland,

Ya have part numbers or original application for it? Just curious, It may be 
a better application then what I had in mind.


I was planning on a Ford 6G style alt.
GM CS130 is a good one as well.
Mitsubishi 215A is an awesome alt but spendy. Found on Ford big trucks and 
ambulances. 200+ amps
I've had charging troubles over the years with useing 1 wire GM style or 
older Ford Alts. One of the best I've found for retrofits is the Ford 6G out 
of a 2000-01 Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.0L.
It's a great Alt, easy to get, charges at low RPM, and has the over and 
under pattern to fit 65-80's cars and trucks. Useing a simple spacer it can 
be fitted in most all older GM or Fords(ICE applications here)
Don't bother with a 1 wire alternator! They are easy to wire up, but you 
have to spin them up to start and just generally don't work well. Even if 
you go with a high power style from Powermaster. They aren't worth the 
trouble! Also newer alts are often comntrolled by the ICE computer and will 
add wireing complications that go further than 3 wires to connect.


This is my notes I saved years ago from searching all over the net about the 
Taurus Alt:. It may help someone here:
6G Series IR/IF Alternator for Ford
105 Amp, 12 Volt, CW, 6-Groove Pulley
Used On:
(2001-00) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.0L (OHV Engine)

Replaces:
Ford YF1U-10300-DA, -FA
YF1Z-10346-DA, -FA
A 2001 Taurus with dohc has a 130 amp 6G alternator with 180 degree or over 
and under mounts like the older Ford units. A police or taxi version may 
have a 200 amp.
Ford 6G style 130 amp peak internally regulated alternator. These units run 
cooler weigh less than the 3G versions.
- Rotating mass is 2 pounds less than the old style 3G 130 amp unit. (8 v\s 
15lbs at max charge speed?)
- Generates 84 amps at idle and peaks at 130 amps.
- Run cooler so output is much more stable

There are three types of regulators used on these units.
Type 1-called the standard is much like all ford regulators, is grey and the 
one you want. Most if not all 2000 - 2001 Taurus will have this one.
Type 2-called the "GLI". This type gets its field rate from the computer and 
determines how hard the alternator is working and if need be will adjust 
engine idle speeds.
Type 3-called the "PLM". This type is totally interactive with the vehicle 
computer. The computer decides what voltage setting is best for the given 
circumstances and sends this to the regulator.


More about 6G ford voltage Regulators:
Definition of terms;
A; Battery Sensing (note field current is not supplied through this wire on 
6 G's, as in the 3G and 4G).
FR: This is a regulator output terminal that sends a "field response" signal 
to one or more of the on board computers. (PCM) It's signal represents the 
"duty cycle" of or "how hard" the alternator is working.
I; Charge Light on Fords
SIG: Signal wire from the PCM that controls the voltage set point.
Soft Start; a regulator function that delays the application of field 
current amperage so as to relieve the mechanical load of the alternator on 
the engine during cranking and start up.
PCM; Power Control Module (Driving Computer)
PCM Controlled: A Voltage regulator that the voltage is controlled by the 
PCM.
Ford and Chrysler use PCM controlled Voltage Regulators.
PCM Monitored: A Voltage Regulator that is monitored by the PCM to adjust 
engine performance.

The first voltage regulator 102-060 came out in 1998. It was found in 
Pickups, Mustangs and Crown Victoria's. This Voltage Regulator has Gray body 
and a Gray Cover. The 102-060 is marked "A", "NONE", and "I". This voltage 
regulator uses the two outer terminals. This alternator operates like most 
alternators that we are used to seeing. It has no extra features to test 
for.

The second voltage regulator 102-062 came out in 1999. It was found on Ford 
Windstar vans. In 2000 it was used in Ford Focus and is now used in most 
Ford and Lincoln Mercury applications. This Voltage Regulator has a White 
Body with a Black Cover. It is controlled by the PCM. The 102-062 is marked 
"A", "SIG", and "FR". Two of the Voltage Regulator terminals communicate 
with the PCM. The third terminal is the "A" (Battery Sense). The middle 
terminal is the "SIG" (signal or PCM control terminal). The "FR" (Field 
Response) is the second wire that lets the computer know how hard the 
alternator is working. The output from the "FR" terminal allows the PCM to 
make adjustments to engine performance based on the horsepower demands of 
the alternator. This alternator will not test without a special test lead 
that simulates the PCM signals to the Voltage Regulator. The "A" terminal is 
connected to the Battery. The Signal terminal is connected to the computer.

The Third Voltage Regulator 102-061 came out in 1999. It was found on 
Mercury Contour and Mystique. This Voltage Regulator has White Body and a 
white Cover and is PCM monitored. It is often confused with its close cousin 
the 102-063 that has a white body and an Orange cover. The 102-061 is marked 
"A", "FR", and "I". The PCM monitors the "FR" terminal to make adjustments 
to engine performance based on the horsepower demands of the alternator. The 
trick is to use this regulator only in Lester # 8309. If used on other 
applications the vehicle may leave the check engine light on and the vehicle 
may not idle correctly. This is because the "FR" terminal has a different 
output than its cousin the 102-063. The 102-063 can replace the 102-061 but 
the 102-061 will not replace the 102-063.

The fourth Voltage Regulator 102-063 came out in 2000. It is found on 
Mercury Contour, Mystique, Sable, Ford Taurus and many others. This Voltage 
Regulator has a White Body and an Orange Cover. It is marked "A", "FR", and 
"I". The PCM monitors the "FR" terminal to make adjustments to engine 
performance based on the horsepower demands of the alternator. The 102-063 
Voltage Regulator has a different "FR" signal than the 102-061 does. This 
Voltage Regulator has the ability to replace the 102-061. The 102-061 will 
not replace the 102-063. The best way to verify the difference between these 
Voltage Regulators is with a lab scope, or use the Super 6G test lead. The 
test lead will show different voltage readings on the stator voltmeter of 
your Alternator Test Bench.







> Roland Wiench wrote:
> > I been running a pulley driven alternator since 1985,
> > I am using a 135 amp alternator with external regulator control
> > settings that is design for charging a deep cycle 135 AH 12 v
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

I was going to add a link to wire up a 6G and forgot.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/6G-ALT_wiring_GRY.gif

Stub




> Chris Stephens wrote:
> > Roland,
> >
> > Ya have part numbers or original application for it? Just curious, It
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

Hello Chris,

The alternator I am using is a Delco No. 1117152 12 volt Neg. 145 amp with 
inverter taps. You could use a No. 1117147 if you only going to use it for 
13.5 to 16 volt charging. And there is a No. 1117148 that is design with 3 
phase taps for use with a 110-volt DC transformer-rectifier converters that 
have a maximum output of 1200 watts and at the same time can supply ample 
current for 12-volt charger.

I choose the No. 117152 which is design to be use with a 110-volt, 60 Hz 
power inverters such as manufactured by the Dynamote Corporation which has 
a maximum rated output of 6000 watts and at the same time can supply ample 
current for 12-volt charging.

Instead of running 12 volt pumps and fans, I am running 120 vac 60 hz fans, 
pumps, heaters and controls that can be either run off the inverter while 
the motor is running, or can run all these units with commercial power for 
testing and pre-heating while the EV is plug in.

A transfer switch is used to switch from outboard commercial power to the on 
board inverter power.

These units were purchase back in 1985, which I got the alternator at 
dealers cost, which today it is over $1000.00. The inverter package back 
then was $1500.00 factory cost from the Dynamote Company.

At first back in 1985, I just use this alternator with out the inverter for 
charging two 6 volt 225 AH batteries in series at 14.8 volts and providing 
13.5 to 14.5 VDC for the EV. I later remove the two 6 volt batteries and 
install one Trojan SCS 225 12 volt deep cycle 135 AH battery and install a 5 
KW inverter from Dynamote which was smaller in size, and just barely got it 
in.

The alternators need about 1100 rpm to excited it, so you should use about 
the same size pulley that was use on the engine. I am using a 6 inch pulley 
off the final drive pulley to run a 2.25 inch pulley on the alternator.

By the time I back out of the garage at about the 5 mph in a 26:1 reversed 
overall ratio, the alternator comes up in voltage.

This battery on the average last about 10 years and I am on my third 
replacement, I just replace it last month.

These units back then are large, and you may be able to get something in a 
smaller package today.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Stephens" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC


>
> Roland,
>
> Ya have part numbers or original application for it? Just curious, It may 
> be
> a better application then what I had in mind.
>
>
> I was planning on a Ford 6G style alt.
> GM CS130 is a good one as well.
> Mitsubishi 215A is an awesome alt but spendy. Found on Ford big trucks and
> ambulances. 200+ amps
> I've had charging troubles over the years with useing 1 wire GM style or
> older Ford Alts. One of the best I've found for retrofits is the Ford 6G 
> out
> of a 2000-01 Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.0L.
> It's a great Alt, easy to get, charges at low RPM, and has the over and
> under pattern to fit 65-80's cars and trucks. Useing a simple spacer it 
> can
> be fitted in most all older GM or Fords(ICE applications here)
> Don't bother with a 1 wire alternator! They are easy to wire up, but you
> have to spin them up to start and just generally don't work well. Even if
> you go with a high power style from Powermaster. They aren't worth the
> trouble! Also newer alts are often comntrolled by the ICE computer and 
> will
> add wireing complications that go further than 3 wires to connect.
>
>
> This is my notes I saved years ago from searching all over the net about 
> the
> Taurus Alt:. It may help someone here:
> 6G Series IR/IF Alternator for Ford
> 105 Amp, 12 Volt, CW, 6-Groove Pulley
> Used On:
> (2001-00) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.0L (OHV Engine)
>
> Replaces:
> Ford YF1U-10300-DA, -FA
> YF1Z-10346-DA, -FA
> A 2001 Taurus with dohc has a 130 amp 6G alternator with 180 degree or 
> over
> and under mounts like the older Ford units. A police or taxi version may
> have a 200 amp.
> Ford 6G style 130 amp peak internally regulated alternator. These units 
> run
> cooler weigh less than the 3G versions.
> - Rotating mass is 2 pounds less than the old style 3G 130 amp unit. (8 
> v\s
> 15lbs at max charge speed?)
> - Generates 84 amps at idle and peaks at 130 amps.
> - Run cooler so output is much more stable
>
> There are three types of regulators used on these units.
> Type 1-called the standard is much like all ford regulators, is grey and 
> the
> one you want. Most if not all 2000 - 2001 Taurus will have this one.
> Type 2-called the "GLI". This type gets its field rate from the computer 
> and
> determines how hard the alternator is working and if need be will adjust
> engine idle speeds.
> Type 3-called the "PLM". This type is totally interactive with the vehicle
> computer. The computer decides what voltage setting is best for the given
> circumstances and sends this to the regulator.
>
>
> More about 6G ford voltage Regulators:
> Definition of terms;
> A; Battery Sensing (note field current is not supplied through this wire 
> on
> 6 G's, as in the 3G and 4G).
> FR: This is a regulator output terminal that sends a "field response" 
> signal
> to one or more of the on board computers. (PCM) It's signal represents the
> "duty cycle" of or "how hard" the alternator is working.
> I; Charge Light on Fords
> SIG: Signal wire from the PCM that controls the voltage set point.
> Soft Start; a regulator function that delays the application of field
> current amperage so as to relieve the mechanical load of the alternator on
> the engine during cranking and start up.
> PCM; Power Control Module (Driving Computer)
> PCM Controlled: A Voltage regulator that the voltage is controlled by the
> PCM.
> Ford and Chrysler use PCM controlled Voltage Regulators.
> PCM Monitored: A Voltage Regulator that is monitored by the PCM to adjust
> engine performance.
>
> The first voltage regulator 102-060 came out in 1998. It was found in
> Pickups, Mustangs and Crown Victoria's. This Voltage Regulator has Gray 
> body
> and a Gray Cover. The 102-060 is marked "A", "NONE", and "I". This voltage
> regulator uses the two outer terminals. This alternator operates like most
> alternators that we are used to seeing. It has no extra features to test
> for.
>
> The second voltage regulator 102-062 came out in 1999. It was found on 
> Ford
> Windstar vans. In 2000 it was used in Ford Focus and is now used in most
> Ford and Lincoln Mercury applications. This Voltage Regulator has a White
> Body with a Black Cover. It is controlled by the PCM. The 102-062 is 
> marked
> "A", "SIG", and "FR". Two of the Voltage Regulator terminals communicate
> with the PCM. The third terminal is the "A" (Battery Sense). The middle
> terminal is the "SIG" (signal or PCM control terminal). The "FR" (Field
> Response) is the second wire that lets the computer know how hard the
> alternator is working. The output from the "FR" terminal allows the PCM to
> make adjustments to engine performance based on the horsepower demands of
> the alternator. This alternator will not test without a special test lead
> that simulates the PCM signals to the Voltage Regulator. The "A" terminal 
> is
> connected to the Battery. The Signal terminal is connected to the 
> computer.
>
> The Third Voltage Regulator 102-061 came out in 1999. It was found on
> Mercury Contour and Mystique. This Voltage Regulator has White Body and a
> white Cover and is PCM monitored. It is often confused with its close 
> cousin
> the 102-063 that has a white body and an Orange cover. The 102-061 is 
> marked
> "A", "FR", and "I". The PCM monitors the "FR" terminal to make adjustments
> to engine performance based on the horsepower demands of the alternator. 
> The
> trick is to use this regulator only in Lester # 8309. If used on other
> applications the vehicle may leave the check engine light on and the 
> vehicle
> may not idle correctly. This is because the "FR" terminal has a different
> output than its cousin the 102-063. The 102-063 can replace the 102-061 
> but
> the 102-061 will not replace the 102-063.
>
> The fourth Voltage Regulator 102-063 came out in 2000. It is found on
> Mercury Contour, Mystique, Sable, Ford Taurus and many others. This 
> Voltage
> Regulator has a White Body and an Orange Cover. It is marked "A", "FR", 
> and
> "I". The PCM monitors the "FR" terminal to make adjustments to engine
> performance based on the horsepower demands of the alternator. The 102-063
> Voltage Regulator has a different "FR" signal than the 102-061 does. This
> Voltage Regulator has the ability to replace the 102-061. The 102-061 will
> not replace the 102-063. The best way to verify the difference between 
> these
> Voltage Regulators is with a lab scope, or use the Super 6G test lead. The
> test lead will show different voltage readings on the stator voltmeter of
> your Alternator Test Bench.
>
>
>
>
>


> > Roland Wiench wrote:
> > > I been running a pulley driven alternator since 1985,
> > > I am using a 135 amp alternator with external regulator control
> > > settings that is design for charging a deep cycle 135 AH 12 v
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

Yea, That must be a monster!
I expect it has a more common case part number with upgraded innards
for the inverter. Military maybe? Google mostly finds old posts by
you on this thing.
Does it look like a 40SI? http://www.elreg.com/product/1187.aspx

That's a bit pricy and large for me. Although the 110 volt
accessories idea is a good one and may be worth it.

Stub





> > Roland Wiench wrote:
> >> Hello Chris,
> >>
> >> The alternator I am using is a Delco No. 1117152 12 volt Neg. 145
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

Go to: http://go-ev.net/pics/001.html and click through the image numbers 
to see this unit in motor bsy. Notice the large 12 volt battery on the 
left side, and the inverter unit on the right side which is under a 
stainless cover.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Stephens" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC


>
> Yea, That must be a monster!
> I expect it has a more common case part number with upgraded innards
> for the inverter. Military maybe? Google mostly finds old posts by
> you on this thing.
> Does it look like a 40SI? http://www.elreg.com/product/1187.aspx
>
> That's a bit pricy and large for me. Although the 110 volt
> accessories idea is a good one and may be worth it.
>
> Stub
>
>
>


> > > Roland Wiench wrote:
> > >> Hello Chris,
> > >>
> > >> The alternator I am using is a Delco No. 1117152 12 volt Neg. 145
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*



> Electric Blue auto convertions wrote:
> 
> > AGAIN THINK !!!!! if your car has ABS brakes, you need 50
> > amps right out of the box to have brakes, a DC / DC converter
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

Also... if you try to use an alternator without a 12 volt battery... you'll
have some weird results depending on what sort of voltage regulation scheme
it has (from not generating any power, up to blowing out the diode bridge in
the alternator and all other electronics in the car... 

Z



> Roger Stockton <[email protected]>wrote:
> 
> > It is still wise to use a 12V battery whether you use an alternator or
> > DC/DC so that an alternator or belt failure doesn't leave you stranded on or
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*



> Roger Stockton <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > This is a practical suggestion that makes great sense especially if minimal cost (use the alternator that came with the vehicle) is of key importance, and one is capable of performing the required custom fabrication themselves. It has the advantage that should the alternator fail a replacement part can more readily be found and it will be easier to find a mechanic that will be willng/able to service the charging system if necessary. The disadvantage is that the alternator and its belt drive are less efficient than a DC/DC, especially since one also has the losses of spinning the traction motor to drive the belt. It is also necessary to use a traction motor with a tail shaft and to build the custom mount to hold the alternator and any belt tenstioning pulleys, etc.
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 10:48 AM, Martin Klingensmith <


> [email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > If you don't idle your motor while at a stop
> > light, your headlights dim. That's lame IMO.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

What is the big deal if your headlights dim a little while you are stopped?
How far do you need to see when stopped?

Mark Grasser
Eliot, ME

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf
Of Zeke Yewdall
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 6:41 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC

On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 10:48 AM, Martin Klingensmith <


> [email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > If you don't idle your motor while at a stop
> > light, your headlights dim. That's lame IMO.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*



> On 4 Jan 2009 at 18:55, Mark Grasser wrote:
> 
> > What is the big deal if your headlights dim a little while you are stopped?
> > How far do you need to see when stopped?
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*



> Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> 
> > > I think using the original alternator makes most sense if
> > > one is retaining other original belt-driven accessories
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*



> Roger Stockton <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> >
> >> > I think using the original alternator makes most sense if
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*



> Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> 
> > Well it's just my opinion anyway. I thought the other side ("sort of
> > anti-alternator") needed some help.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*



> Electric Blue auto convertions wrote:
> >
> > AGAIN THINK !!!!! if your car has ABS brakes, you need 50 amps right
> > out of the box to have brakes, a DC / DC converter at best gives 40
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: [EVDL] DC/ DC*

All this talk or DC/DC reminds me that I still don't have one...

I only need one that goes from 48 to 72 volts... is there one that
everybody uses in that range?

---
Eduardo Kaftanski
[email protected]
[email protected]

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
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