# Porsche Boxster 2000 build



## Joey (Oct 12, 2007)

Great start with the component selection. I will be following along. Have you decided on how to couple the motor to the transmission?


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## Henkka (Jan 7, 2012)

Joey said:


> Great start with the component selection. I will be following along. Have you decided on how to couple the motor to the transmission?


I will most likely machine a suitable hub with my metal-lathe and perhaps get an adaptor plate water-cutted at local water-cutting workshop (my own DIY cnc-machine is not big enough for the plate). I still need to figure out a way to accurately position the motor to the trasmission. I will most likely keep the clutch.

-- 
Henkka


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

A boxster is on my short list for my second conversion. Should make a really nice EV. I look forward to watching your progress.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

That looks like it'll be a great conversion that I'll be watching with interest!

I have a 1977 Porsche 911 that is getting a Kostov 11 alpha, but sepex wound.

I have some pics and details about my adapter that worked great on my old motor.:

http://explodingdinosaurs.com/9electric/adapter/

http://ExplodingDinosaurs.com/9electric/adapter2

If your Porsche is the same way as my old one, you want to center the motor shaft to the tranny mating ring. The basic trick for me was to bolt to the rotary table, and don't remove it as it is hard to recenter things exactly. Then you can machine the motor 4 inch centering hole and the tranny centering lip, and guarantee they'll be in parallel planes and concentric with each other.

My humble suggestion is to keep the clutch.

The other tricks are to have your flywheel and pressure plate balanced together. Spin them up together before you put them into the car. Mine had a vibration when I did this. I then reattached the pressure plate 180 degrees rotated, and the vibration went away. Wayland's trick is to add washers to a flywheel bolt, try different bolts and numbers of washers, until mininum vibration.


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## O'Zeeke (Mar 9, 2008)

Hello Henkka, Excellent choice for donor car if I do say so, and assembled right there in Finland. I have found this to be an extremely well engineered and well built car and so far mine has been going together quite well and should be on the road in a few weeks. Good luck with your build.



Henkka said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I have started to convert an Porche Boxster 2000 (2.7L) to electric. Goals are at good performance and if I can get about 100 km range I will be glad. Aiming for about 15-20 kWh battery pack but as I have not yet calculated weight exact capacity will be determined later.
> 
> ...


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## somanywelps (Jan 25, 2012)

This is 1 of the 2 options I would pick for a boxster... the other are some of those AC systems, but those are months out at least from being cleared.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

This sounds great! I am really excited to follow your build and to see how it performs. I want to use the same components in my own future EV conversion.
Good luck to you!


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## somanywelps (Jan 25, 2012)

photograph your build heavily and make a step by step


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## RPE (Oct 2, 2012)

For those interested in converting Porsche Boxster into electric, we would like to share the link to our 2001 Porsche Boxster Conversion EV on evalbum:
http://www.evalbum.com/4393 

We have developed and are now selling conversion kits, for Boxster 1997-2004, designed to work with Warp (9" or 11").

Sample kit below, you can find more on www.rp-eng.com.


Thank you for looking!
Red Point Engineering


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## Henkka (Jan 7, 2012)

Slow progress because of other (work related) things to do. However I have now removed the transmission and I'm proceeding to measure and build an adapter plate and a motor coupling. Have also ordered few still missing parts, most notably Soliton 1 with an EMC package from Rebbl.

For batteries I'm thinking about replacing A123's with Calb CA100FI. About 70-93 cells, depending on weight. Does any of you previous Boxster converters have an idea how much battery-weight a Boxster could handle ? Naturally I would like to go as close to 93 cells as possible.

-- 
Henkka


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## O'Zeeke (Mar 9, 2008)

Henkka, I have 48 160Ah x5.6K so about 269Kilo and no problems. Have not weighed the car yet but i would be suprised if it is more than 100 lb over original ice weight


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## Henkka (Jan 7, 2012)

Great to hear that at least 270 kg of batteries is possible. I saw from EVAlbum that you have mostly same kind of setup that I will have - 11" motor + Soliton 1. Also your 291 Wh/mile is very helpful figure. With that I can now estimate that I would be in between 100 km (80% DOD @ 22.4 kWh / 70 cells) and 130 km of driving range (80% DOD @ 29.7 kWh / 93 cells). A little bit less than I would like it to be but will be enough for daily driving.


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## Nomad (May 8, 2009)

RPE said:


> For those interested in converting Porsche Boxster into electric, we would like to share the link to our 2001 Porsche Boxster Conversion EV on evalbum:
> http://www.evalbum.com/4393
> 
> We have developed and are now selling conversion kits, for Boxster 1997-2004, designed to work with Warp (9" or 11").
> ...


Kind of hard to run a business with kits being 10's of thousands of dollars when people can't get quotes...

"Access Denied
This site is protected by the Stop Spammer Registrations Plugin."


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## Nomad (May 8, 2009)

Henkka said:


> Great to hear that at least 270 kg of batteries is possible. I saw from EVAlbum that you have mostly same kind of setup that I will have - 11" motor + Soliton 1. Also your 291 Wh/mile is very helpful figure. With that I can now estimate that I would be in between 100 km (80% DOD @ 22.4 kWh / 70 cells) and 130 km of driving range (80% DOD @ 29.7 kWh / 93 cells). A little bit less than I would like it to be but will be enough for daily driving.


Really looking forward to following your build. I'm also very interested in doing a Boxster convert. Maybe I'm reading this wrong somewhere, but if you are pushing 250v's at 1000 amps, isn't that quite a bit of power?


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## Henkka (Jan 7, 2012)

Nomad said:


> Really looking forward to following your build. I'm also very interested in doing a Boxster convert. Maybe I'm reading this wrong somewhere, but if you are pushing 250v's at 1000 amps, isn't that quite a bit of power?


Yes, that should be quite nice power-level for this donor-frame. Of course battery sag will determine actual voltage under load, most likely that will be much lower than 250V. I'm thinking that perhaps I should put my Alpha 11" & Soliton 1 to a motor-dynamometer we have build for other EV-projects. We can't run high powers for a long but it should handle short peaks just fine. It could be interesting to see what kind of power-curve we could measure with my pack of 80 Calb 100Ah cells. As bench also measures mechanical torque, we could get some efficiency figures as well.

Recently I have focuced on doing an BMS system for this car. What we have working is a CAN-bus equipped BMS-boards with an Atmel MCU in them. Each board can handle 4-12 cells and they have isolated CAN-interfaces and external +12V feed for logic. We have used these boards to monitor our small high-power battery packs for other projects with that motor test bench and so far BMS is working just fine. I have not yet tested it in actual car - I have one BMS-board installed in my test-vehicle (Elcat EV) and I'm writing some UI software for it currently. So soon I'll know if the BMS works also in car environment in actual use. My preliminary UI-tests with a mobile phone, Raspberry Pi, CAN-shield and WLAN-dongle have also been promising. I'm now able to connect to my EV with an iPhone via simple HTML web-page. Gauges are updated via Wifi by some AJAX-calls. More info about this can be found from my blog at http://randomev.wordpress.com. I also shoot an short video: 






that shows the basic system with just traction pack current.

I will use Raspberry Pi and phone as an UI in Porsche also if that proves to be working combination.


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## iruraz (Sep 4, 2012)

Hi Henkka,

It has been a long time since your last entry about your conversion under this topic. 

I have Eltek Powercharger 3000. Can you share the details of how you set it up? For instance, how did you adjust its voltage output with CANbus?


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## Henkka (Jan 7, 2012)

Hi,

I have focused to software and BMS design for a while. But transmission was 3D scanned and measurements were taken for adapter plate machining. I have 3D printed an clutch adapter model with our 3D printer and it's looking that it will fit just fine, we'll make from stainless steel.






Also motor has been removed






and batteries are currently in initial balancing (connected in parallel)






.

Our own BMS boards are in revision 2 and have been installed in our test EV-van for about 5 months now and have been running 24/7 since installation. No major problems so far.

For Eltek I have made my own small software to IFM PLC-box. I also have some Windows .NET software for controlling it (works with Peak CAN-adapter). What hardware do you have available, I can share my code or make an .exe if needed.

Henkka

Ps. Here is one picture of our .NET software doing some balancing on a small 60Ah pack. It's controlling our new BMS via CAN and a Powerfinn 3kW CAN charger. But easy to use Eltek also with this.


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## iruraz (Sep 4, 2012)

Hi Henkka,

So good, you have a big progress.

I have Vector's VN1630 as CAN interface. But I don't have any software to control Eltek's charger. If you share your software with me I would be pleased. And if you know any other software for controlling charger could you please write me? And do you have any document about Eltek charger, especially for controlling?

Regards.


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## twright (Aug 20, 2013)

Please be aware that connecting all of the cells in parallel is not enough to balance the pack:the pack either has to be at the top of the charge curve (top balanced) or at the bottom of the charge curve (bottom balanced).

If your in the middle of the charge curve, the cells will all have the same voltage, even though they could be anywhere between 20-80% State of Charge.

This means that you either have to hook up a charger to get them all fully charged, or a load so they all get discharged down to the bottom.


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