# Kelly good now?



## major (Apr 4, 2008)

DavidDymaxion said:


> I found a bunch of complaints about Kelly Controllers dated 2008. The complaints seem to have died down. I read that 3 of the TTGXP guys are using Kelly controllers.
> 
> Are they good now? Thanks for any up or down votes.


I didn't see any of the 4 bikes at Infineon running Kelly. And last year, Kelly had some trouble on the NA TTXGP bikes.

Are they good now? Beats me  I do continue to hear negative reports. Like that guy recently on the EVDL who went through 3 Kellys. 


> I replaced the underpowered Curtis with a Kelly KDH12600B (600 amp
> controller). This was adequate but blew out while driving after about 3
> months. The folks at Kelly replaced it without any charge and let me
> upgrade to a KDH12800B (800 amp). Unfortunately this one lasted only one month and blew out. The folks at Kelly replaced it with another 12800B. This one lasted only 1 week before blowing up. So, the folks at Kelly replaced it with a KDH14650B. This one ran OK but I was reluctant to use it for very long.


By Tom H posted 5/27/2011 on the EVDL.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

I think he talk about the "news" KDHD, KDHE, HSR, HSE, etc Kelly controller..... those one with the new black frame.
Supposed to be better than the old ones KDHA, KDHB, KD controller with the grey frame.

I don't explode my KDHD 1000A at this moment, but I don't passed more than 400A for few sec. inside at this moment also. 
The real test will be in july when I will connect my 130Kw battery pack on the controller... so now, I don't have real conclusion.

Personally, I still regret that the soliton Jr. did not exist when I make the purchase of the Kelly ...., but I guess in your case, it's not about choice for a series controller!


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## Guest (Jun 8, 2011)

The newer ones should be better but once again most posts are from long ago and not truly recent problems and if there is a recent problem most are from older controllers. It was stated back then that you should get a Kelly controller that is larger than what you expect to run in your own vehicle so you dont run the controller at the limits. What I have found is many folks do not put a proper heat sink and cooling fan on the controller. They think that it is fine the way it comes. They think that the fins on the case will do just fine. Well it ain't so. You need a good sink and one properly installed. The case with the MG I purchased has to deal with Kelly controllers and heat sinks and failures of three controllers. The original purchaser of the car purchased a kit and it came with a kelly controller mounted to a huge deep finned heat sink. It was one of the real early controllers. It died post haste and Kelly replaced it and the new one mounted to the heat sink using proper thermal compound. Well that one died too. OH crap, Kelly controllers are garbage is what was being said. The next controller was installed and it proved to live quite a bit longer but died as well in my possession. Oh crap even that controller did not work out. But wait, that is not all of the story. What about the heat sink? It looks proper, It's huge and could dissipate heat like no tomorrow. But can it? Well if it was attached proper it would. Is it attached proper? Well lets see. All the bolts are attached properly and the proper thermal compound is present but kinda thick which is not what you want. Why is it so thick? Well it turns out that the heat sink was not a flat piece but some toss away garbage SRC heat sink and had many improper steps on the surface but the biggest problem was that the sink was warped badly. Just taking a quick look you'd never know. It was when I pulled the last controller off and cleaned the surface that I noticed the roughness of the surface and then I decided to put a straight edge on it. WOW. What a friggin piece of garbage and it was sold by one of our larger distributors in their KIT. I had to take the sink to our local shop and have it milled. $40 bucks later it was perfectly flat. Now the new 4th controller is mounted. It is one of the new KDHD HP controllers. Black frame ones. It will be mounted and pushed through the limits. It is the 144 volt 850 amp controller. More than enough for a 96 volt pack. I have yet to mount a fan but it will be mounted before being turned on. 

So before you go bashing a product be sure it had been properly and the key word is properly setup. If not you can't bash the product.


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## cruisin (Jun 3, 2009)

gottdi said:


> The newer ones should be better but once again most posts are from long ago and not truly recent problems and if there is a recent problem most are from older controllers. It was stated back then that you should get a Kelly controller that is larger than what you expect to run in your own vehicle so you dont run the controller at the limits. What I have found is many folks do not put a proper heat sink and cooling fan on the controller. They think that it is fine the way it comes. They think that the fins on the case will do just fine. Well it ain't so. You need a good sink and one properly installed. The case with the MG I purchased has to deal with Kelly controllers and heat sinks and failures of three controllers. The original purchaser of the car purchased a kit and it came with a kelly controller mounted to a huge deep finned heat sink. It was one of the real early controllers. It died post haste and Kelly replaced it and the new one mounted to the heat sink using proper thermal compound. Well that one died too. OH crap, Kelly controllers are garbage is what was being said. The next controller was installed and it proved to live quite a bit longer but died as well in my possession. Oh crap even that controller did not work out. But wait, that is not all of the story. What about the heat sink? It looks proper, It's huge and could dissipate heat like no tomorrow. But can it? Well if it was attached proper it would. Is it attached proper? Well lets see. All the bolts are attached properly and the proper thermal compound is present but kinda thick which is not what you want. Why is it so thick? Well it turns out that the heat sink was not a flat piece but some toss away garbage SRC heat sink and had many improper steps on the surface but the biggest problem was that the sink was warped badly. Just taking a quick look you'd never know. It was when I pulled the last controller off and cleaned the surface that I noticed the roughness of the surface and then I decided to put a straight edge on it. WOW. What a friggin piece of garbage and it was sold by one of our larger distributors in their KIT. I had to take the sink to our local shop and have it milled. $40 bucks later it was perfectly flat. Now the new 4th controller is mounted. It is one of the new KDHD HP controllers. Black frame ones. It will be mounted and pushed through the limits. It is the 144 volt 850 amp controller. More than enough for a 96 volt pack. I have yet to mount a fan but it will be mounted before being turned on.
> 
> So before you go bashing a product be sure it had been properly and the key word is properly setup. If not you can't bash the product.


I have been using Kelly controllers for many years, but never again. there is no customer support, just a person in China by the name of Fern who doesnt know squat. Nobody returns messages from The US phone number.
I did use the KDHD12800 which is the new black case you mentioned. It did provide good power as I had a good heat sink on it, but was eratic in it control of the motor using a 2 wire pot. Replaced the controller and pot and same problem. here is a picture of the installation.

I then replaced the whole conversion with a AC-50 and WOW. What a differance. I cant begin to tell you how much better the Curtis 128-7601 controller is. I hope this gives you a little info regarding my experience.


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## Guest (Jun 8, 2011)

Looks like two fans on top of the controller with the controller on a flat plate. That is not a proper set up for proper heat dissipation. Can't compare AC to DC. 

Yes the AC system is excellent. If you have the money and your vehicle is not too heavy then it is an excellent choice. 

I still side with Kelly controller sort of but don't recommend them so strongly. But if you have one be absolutely sure you have an excellent finned heat sink with cooling fan set up.


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## cruisin (Jun 3, 2009)

gottdi said:


> Looks like two fans on top of the controller with the controller on a flat plate. That is not a proper set up for proper heat dissipation. WRONG. Can't compare AC to DC. Yes you can
> 
> Yes the AC system is excellent. If you have the money and your vehicle is not too heavy then it is an excellent choice.
> 
> I still side with Kelly controller sort of but don't recommend them so strongly. But if you have one be absolutely sure you have an excellent finned heat sink with cooling fan set up.


If you look at the design of the new controller you will notice that the FET's are mounted on all 4 sides. It is designed to mount on a heat sink and has the mounting screw holes on the top for a fan to direct cooling air to the top and 2 sides. The heat sink takes care of the majority of the heat transmitted to the base. We have done a lot of testing on this controller and found that heat is not a problem if done the way it is designed. Would you mind correcting your statement on the way the controller is set up for cooling?


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## Guest (Jun 8, 2011)

All my testing and working with Kelly Controller, the controllers need a thick base deep finned heat sink on the base of the controller with a good high volume fan to keep the controller cool. No revision needed. I am fully aware of the issues with the controllers. They are best for small industrial equipment. Not for highspeed heavy freeway driven vehicles. 

Your set up was not ideal. The controller is designed for the two wire pot. It's configurable via computer. It is a basic HP controller for those who would otherwise screw things up. It's as simple to set up as you can get. 

Pete 

PS: I've been beta testing for some time for Kelly Controller.


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## cbliss (Jun 28, 2010)

I have been working with Kelly controllers for a couple years. I have found the company to be responsive and open to doing upgrades with few questions asked. Most recently, I have been running the KHB controllers and they handle a lot more current than the KBL they replaced. The KBL would be lucky to hit the rated current, whereas the KHB is hitting the rated current. 

As others point out, you have to put them on good heat sinks. Mine are mounted on 1-1/2 finned extrusions mounted in the air stream with heat sink compound. I have checked the temperature after driving and only once was it hotter that I would like. But then, on that day, the outside temperature was over 100 deg F. To be fair, my Solectria / Azure controller has faulted out at those temperatures.

While communication can be difficult, if you are patient, they will answer your questions and take care of you.


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## cruisin (Jun 3, 2009)

cbliss said:


> I have been working with Kelly controllers for a couple years. I have found the company to be responsive and open to doing upgrades with few questions asked. Most recently, I have been running the KHB controllers and they handle a lot more current than the KBL they replaced. The KBL would be lucky to hit the rated current, whereas the KHB is hitting the rated current.
> 
> As others point out, you have to put them on good heat sinks. Mine are mounted on 1-1/2 finned extrusions mounted in the air stream with heat sink compound. I have checked the temperature after driving and only once was it hotter that I would like. But then, on that day, the outside temperature was over 100 deg F. To be fair, my Solectria / Azure controller has faulted out at those temperatures.
> 
> While communication can be difficult, if you are patient, they will answer your questions and take care of you.


Just mounting on a heat sink will NOT reduce the temperature to the FET"s mounted to the sides and top. Our tests show that a 1/4" aluminum base plate 24" square with grease and the 2 full time fans raised 1" from the top of case prevented a 1000a controller from overheating at full output. Our tests can be verified by Kelly. Once again, you need to take a look at your statement about the picture I provided not being ideal. If you have worked with the KDHD as much as I have you would know what I am saying.


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## cbliss (Jun 28, 2010)

I agree with you on the heat sink. In my posting, I stated that it is "in the air stream". It is directly mounted in the opening in the car where the radiator use to be with the fins having full unrestricted access to the incoming air. I had debated adding fans but they were not required because of the amount of natural air flow. The motor, on the other hand has restrictions due to placement, hence it has fans added. I monitor the temperature of both. I cannot overstress the importance of thermal protection.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

Many thanks for the responses.

It wasn't completely clear to me, so is the problem they get too hot and cut back on current, without proper heatsinks, but still work once cooled off, or is it they get too hot and get ruined?


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## cruisin (Jun 3, 2009)

DavidDymaxion said:


> Many thanks for the responses.
> 
> It wasn't completely clear to me, so is the problem they get too hot and cut back on current, without proper heatsinks, but still work once cooled off, or is it they get too hot and get ruined?


 
Thats correct, most ALL controllers are designed to provide their rated current up to a certain temperature, which may be ony a couple of minutes, and then they cut back to protect the components. Some like the Curtis 1238 is programmable to do various things at differant temperatures. This is real nice as it wont wack you without you knowing before hand to allow you to take evasive action.


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## Guest (Jun 9, 2011)

If they get too hot too many times you will ruin the controller. If you get overheat cutback your heat sink is not good enough or not set up properly. 

Pete


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## cruisin (Jun 3, 2009)

gottdi said:


> If they get too hot too many times you will ruin the controller. If you get overheat cutback your heat sink is not good enough or not set up properly.
> 
> Pete


If you look closely on the controller case top, you will see the 8 holes for mounting the 2 fans. It is best to mount the fans about 1" from the case for the air to move and carry the heat away.


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## Guest (Jun 9, 2011)

> *Chapter 3 Wiring and Installation 3.1 Mounting the Controller*
> The controller can be oriented in any position as clean and dry as possible, or shield with a cover to protect it from water and contaminants.
> To ensure full rated output power, the controller should be fastened to a clean, flat metal surface with four or six screws. Applying silicon gel or other thermal conductive material to contact surface will enhance thermal performance.
> Sufficient heat sink and air flow is required for high power application. The case outline and mounting holes’ dimensions are shown in Figure 1,2,3.


This is directly from the manual. After working with Fany and Victor directly it has been their conclusion that the deep finned heat sink is the proper type of heat sink to mount to the base of the controller. Any of the controllers they provide. If your using a controller in a light weight slow industrial vehicle or golf type cart then using a large flat plate mounted to the bottom is good enough for the most part but in a high speed high amperage vehicle it is required to use a good quality deep finned heat sink with a good fan that can move lots of air. The fan on top is not going to move much heat as the majority of the heat is transferred out the bottom from the large flat mounting plate. I confer with them often enough and know what is required. Even the old ones will do well with this setup. Problem is that most folks really do push controllers to the max and beyond. Just because it can do 144 volts and 850 amps does not mean it should live in that zone. In actual fact it is best to stay below that. Just like staying off the top and bottom of lithium batteries. So many just push push push and then get pissed when something fails. Sometimes things do fail that are not the fault of the owner like in the case of a warped heat sink because the company did not give a shit. Period. Problem fixed. 

Pete 



This is my old Golftech Controller with finned heat sink and fan. Once installed this puppy never got hot. Ever. It is exactly what other controllers need to keep cool. Controllers need air and lots of it. No exceptions and they need lots of surface area to allow the heat to dissipate properly. With out the finned sink you can't get enough surface to dissipate the heat. Flat metal will not transfer heat away fast enough and super thick blocks of aluminum won't work either. Tried them all. This is the only way for an air cooled sink to keep the controller working in the temp range to keep the controller alive. 

Remember the controller is a very expensive investment and keeping it cool should not be taken lightly.


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## Brute Force (Aug 28, 2010)

How good is Kelly now? Couldn't say. But here is my experience dealing with them when I purchased a KDH14500 in 2008.

The controller was listed as in stock on their website. When I placed the order, I was told it would ship in a week, the time it would take for the factory to manufacture it. Six weeks later it finally left China.

Three months later, I was finally able to take my EV out for a test drive and very disappointed with the performance, top speed of 25 mph downhill with a tailwind. After a bit of trouble shooting I discovered that the controller wasn't performing anywhere near the specifications Kelly clearly described in the owners manual. It would momentarily pulse 250 amps then quickly drop to 50 amps. The manual stated it could put out 500 amps for one minute and drop back to 250 amps continuous. The controller was mounted to a massive 12" x 24" heat sink and was never even noticeably warmer than ambient air temp.

When I contacted Steve at Kelly, he told me that my EV was improperly designed and that series wound motors were a bottle neck to performance. He insisted that I wasn't measuring the actual motor current because the EV would barely move if that was the case. Duh, the EV could barely move which was the source of my complaint. While he graciously offered to upgrade my controller to their new and improved model the for only difference in price (about 50% of what I had paid for the one I was having problems with), he adamantly refused to honor the warantee on my unit because he claimed there was nothing wrong with it. When cornered on the issue, he told me they couldn't replace it because it was no longer in production and could only be replaced with the new improved unit and wouldn't do so unless I paid for the upgrade (it was new on the market six months earlier when I purchased it). When further pressed he told me I was the only customer with a problem and how all the others had paid for the uprgade and were totally satisfied.

Eventually, he exchange the unit for a used KDH12600. I installed it in exactly the same configuration as the KDH14500 and it functioned almost to specification. If the original controller had worked in the same manner, I would have been satisfied with my purchase.

School of Hard Knocks- There are no alumni, only students...


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## Guest (Jun 9, 2011)

Not saying there have not been bad experiences but you will find them with most things. My experience has been nothing but top notch from day one. Some days I'd have to wait a little bit but I am quite patient and because I have been beta testing it is imperative that you be patient. I have only had one failure of a kelly and it was installed on a vehicle I purchased and it was not properly installed. 

Pete


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## NZero (Jan 30, 2010)

I have never had a problem with Kelly.

To be honest an install I have been helping with has been using a Kelly controller and the adaptor sent to program the unit was back to front. The controller however works well and gives plenty of power in a direct drive set up. This coupled with some Vws gives me a very positive opinion of Kelly.

Overall I have been a part of 8 installs involving Kellys and I haven't seen or heard of any faults. 

Just my 2 cents for what its worth but hope it helps.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

Many thanks, all, for the + and - experiences. Those are some huge heat sinks!

Bill Dube does a heat pipe type of cooler on his daily driver Wabbit electric car. I have wondered why no one seems to go that route. I was reading that the heat pipe idea has the advantage that the temperature swings less, so there is less thermal cycling.


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## Guest (Jun 11, 2011)

Heat pipe? I'd like to see that.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

Here is a picture of Bill Dube's Rabbit with the Blue Flame controller cooling system. It was a Butane heat pipe system where butane gas comes out of the top of the Auburn controller, condenses in the transmission cooler, and flows as a liquid back to the lower end of controller. As long as the system has only butane, no air, it will operate in equilibrium so any heat will boil some trying to raise the pressure and cooling will try and to keep it down. I don't know off the top of my head what pressure range it operated at but butane was chosen because of the fairly low pressures involved. Here are some more pictures of the Rabbit when Optima powered.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks for posting that, EVfun.

Bill demo'd it to me by putting a heat gun on the controller cooling plate. Very soon you could see the condensed butane running down the tubes.


EVfun said:


> Here is a picture of Bill Dube's Rabbit with the Blue Flame controller cooling system. It was a Butane heat pipe system where butane gas comes out of the top of the Auburn controller, condenses in the transmission cooler, and flows as a liquid back to the lower end of controller. As long as the system has only butane, no air, it will operate in equilibrium so any heat will boil some trying to raise the pressure and cooling will try and to keep it down. I don't know off the top of my head what pressure range it operated at but butane was chosen because of the fairly low pressures involved. Here are some more pictures of the Rabbit when Optima powered.


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## Qer (May 7, 2008)

Ok, for the record, I'm still heavily involved in the continuous development of the Soliton, in case anyone has missed that. These are, however, my personal reactions and is in no way official statements from EVnetics.



Brute Force said:


> When I contacted Steve at Kelly, he told me that my EV was improperly designed and that series wound motors were a bottle neck to performance.


Wtf? Would you like to quote what, exactly, he wrote because that sounds, err, far-fetched to say the least. How, exactly, would a series wound motor limit the max current to a mere 250 Amps? At a stand still I'd say it'd take a pretty low pack voltage for the motor to only draw 250 Amps since the motor will be close to short circuit until it starts to gain some speed...



Brute Force said:


> When further pressed he told me I was the only customer with a problem and how all the others had paid for the uprgade and were totally satisfied.


That doesn't make sense. Why would the rest of the customers upgrade if they didn't have a problem in the first place?


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

This relates to some of the discussion here. 

http://kellycontroller.com/hse-high-power-assembly-p-918.html

This option puts 2 fans on top of the controller, and puts it on a huge metal plate -- looks like lots of cooling is called for.

It doesn't list what exactly comes with this option. It says it adds an ammeter, plus the pic shows what looks like the J2 cables, a prewired contactor, and maybe a shunt or fuse or something?


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## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

DavidDymaxion said:


> This relates to some of the discussion here.
> 
> http://kellycontroller.com/hse-high-power-assembly-p-918.html
> 
> ...


i bought this assembly for my neon, its a fuse and the j1 cable, the aluminum plate is only 1/8" thick, it does have a contactor and 2 fans with it though, i dont remember getting the amp meter


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## cruisin (Jun 3, 2009)

billhac said:


> i bought this assembly for my neon, its a fuse and the j1 cable, the aluminum plate is only 1/8" thick, it does have a contactor and 2 fans with it though, i dont remember getting the amp meter


The fans are to be mounted on top of the controller which will cool the sides and top as FET's are mounted there as well as the bottom on their controllers. The plate will act as a heat sink for the back of the controller.
The amp meter comes with the controller if you ask for it and is driven off the data from the controller. The plate also includes a 12v contactor and 400a fuse. If you are buying a Kelly controller, and I dont recommend it, get the power center to save a few bucks. The controllers from Kelly are very poor in design and have a high failure rate and low power rate. The newer KDH is better but lacks a good design for accelerator logic input and is very unreliable. I have tested and used most of their models and am not biased, just want to get you the facts.


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## Brute Force (Aug 28, 2010)

QER,

It was not my intent to relive my pi$$ing match with Steven Lee from 3 years ago. Kelly got my money, I got a doorstop. I'll PM you the entire unabridged string of emails if you really want. BTW, it was only 50 amps steady state current! 

Two things I took away from the experience:

1. EV motor controller industry practice is to advertise peak current output. The steady state performance is less. Download the specifications and READ THEM CAREFULLY! Kelly takes some liberties with their specs, EVnetics are straight shooters.

2. I will not recommend Kelly controllers to anyone. Their business practices are shady. Their equipment is poorly designed and low quality.

Silver lining: I found this forum as a result of the whole debacle.


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## Guest (Jun 17, 2011)

Sorry to say but you still need one hefty finned aluminum heat sink to keep the Kelly cool. Don't and you will be sorry. That power plate they sell is .......... well you don't want to hear me say what I think. Fans on top will not keep it cool enough. Period. They won't hurt but they are not the main source for cooling and a thin flat plate is OLD and it what you'd more than likely find on a slow fork lift or golf cart. You need a good thick base finned heat sink with a fan on that that will move lots of air. Why does every one keep going back to what will kill them. Ditch that flat plate and mount it to a real heat sink. Put fans on the back if you must but ditch that flat plate. 

Pete 

This is going to have a nice fan attached too. No fans on the back side.


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## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

i never put a kelly controller on the assembly that i bought from them, i did how ever drill some new holes and put my LS, and later an alltrax controller on the assembly, i was just pionting out that the assembly was nice having the throttle and various other things, prewired on the assenbly so it could be removed easily, when the controller burns up.


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## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

here i what it looked like, i did eventually cut a square out of the bottom plate so i could mount a heat sink to the controller, and have it stick through the plate. just my .02


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## Guest (Jun 17, 2011)

Looks nice but you don't have a way to pull the heat away. That flat plate is just not good enough.

Photo one: Golftech in its base form. That alumium base is not enough to dissipate heat at all. 
Photo two: Golftech with super thick aluminum plate to help keep it cool. Figured that the mass would be enough to pull away the heat. WRONG. Good for a few miles or very low amp draw driving. High amp draws from accelerating caused a thermal cut back. Low amp draws allowed to remain in the operating zone. Not a suitable heat sink and it was properly mounted. 

Another photo shows my purchased finned heat sink. I mounted it with no fan and it was better than the block but still allowed the controller to go into thermal cutback if I did a bunch of high amp draws from lots of stop and go driving in town. 

I then put on a fan and after the fan was installed the controller never ever went into thermal cutback even in the hottest days and hardest accelerations from in town stop and go driving. 

It is an absolute must to have a proper heat sink and fan. Without it you will over heat your controller and your controller will not live long. Period. 

I am not blowing hot air. I did test quite aggressively and needed to know what was required for proper cooling. 

I did see many setups with only a large flat plate. The heat can't move away fast enough. Period. Get a thick base finned heat sink and properly mount it and a good air moving fan and you will be good to go. 

Pete


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## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

gottdi said:


> Looks nice but you don't have a way to pull the heat away. That flat plate is just not good enough.
> 
> Photo one: Golftech in its base form. That alumium base is not enough to dissipate heat at all.
> Photo two: Golftech with super thick aluminum plate to help keep it cool. Figured that the mass would be enough to pull away the heat. WRONG. Good for a few miles or very low amp draw driving. High amp draws from accelerating caused a thermal cut back. Low amp draws allowed to remain in the operating zone. Not a suitable heat sink and it was properly mounted.
> ...


well i did say that i eventually cut a square out of the bottom under the plate to attach a heat sink to my controller, after that it seemed better, i thought that for the price and convience of the assembly, it was worth buying and just build to suit, but that is just my opnion. i agree with the heat sink and will be doing that to the controller on my new car.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

Gottdi thanks for the photo history and what worked and didn't work.

Would it be better to have the fins go up and down rather than side-to-side? Just a guess on my part, might that lead to a slight chimney effect that would move the heat even better?


gottdi said:


> Looks nice but you don't have a way to pull the heat away. That flat plate is just not good enough.
> 
> Photo one: Golftech in its base form. That alumium base is not enough to dissipate heat at all.
> Photo two: Golftech with super thick aluminum plate to help keep it cool. Figured that the mass would be enough to pull away the heat. WRONG. Good for a few miles or very low amp draw driving. High amp draws from accelerating caused a thermal cut back. Low amp draws allowed to remain in the operating zone. Not a suitable heat sink and it was properly mounted.
> ...


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