# 1965 MGB Roadster



## yeti (Jun 11, 2010)

I've been wanting to do a conversion for a while now but I don't have a lightweight car. I saw an ad for a 1965 MGB Roadster for 3900 in my local newspaper. Would this be an ideal car to convert? Is it light enough? Oh, and it runs great, the paper says.


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## tinrobot (Aug 26, 2009)

I have a 1974 MGB and it's been a great car. The nice thing about the old British cars is that parts are pretty easy to obtain. You could practically build an MGB from the ground up using Moss Motors' catalog.

The only big issue was getting the suspension to support extra weight of the lead acid batteries. I used helper springs intended for a small truck and they worked great. Brakes were also an issue, again because of the weight, upgraded front calipers and rotors helped. 

If you're going with lithium batteries, suspension and brakes would not be as much of an issue.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Hi, another MGB fan here, though I wasn't bright enough to get one to convert.

My old MGB GT had race springs on it as it was a road/track race prepared. The front and rear springs were off the shelf at 560lbin rate and came at standard height and, the ones I used, -2" height. The ride was hard but suited the car well.

The '65 would have a 3 syncro gearbox, it may be worth getting it rebuilt or at least checked over. Maybe a later four syncro box would be good.

Have you any thoughts as to the motor, controller and batteries you'd like to use?

What is your desired range and speed?
And where are you?


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## yeti (Jun 11, 2010)

Woodsmith said:


> Hi, another MGB fan here, though I wasn't bright enough to get one to convert.
> 
> My old MGB GT had race springs on it as it was a road/track race prepared. The front and rear springs were off the shelf at 560lbin rate and came at standard height and, the ones I used, -2" height. The ride was hard but suited the car well.
> 
> ...


No thoughts as to motor, controller, and batteries I'd like to use.

I'd like to be able to get 50 miles..ish and a little above highway speed would be great.

I'm just getting into EV's and I want to convert one. I just thought that might be a super light car that I need to take advantage of.(not likely, but I don't want to take chances)

Thanks for the help.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Going light weight is a good thing but not always practical as most end up going with whatever they can get hold of.

You can get MGB bonnets in aluminium, that saves a lot of weight. Fibreglass wings help too. Also you could look at getting a Sebring MGB body kit and remove the chrome bumpers. You don't have to go with the wide arches though.

















If there are no problems moving the boot floor then you can get a good amount of batteries there and where the original 6v batteres lived. The engine bay is also potentially sizable.

I always found that the leg room for the passenger was too long, nothing to rest their feet against. The end of the foot well could be made into a space for a DC-DC converter or other electronics in a box.


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## Guest (Jun 12, 2010)

yeti said:


> No thoughts as to motor, controller, and batteries I'd like to use.
> 
> I'd like to be able to get 50 miles..ish and a little above highway speed would be great.
> 
> ...


You should be able to fit a 9" motor and there are many controllers and you don't want to scrimp. Synkromotive, Soliton1, Zilla, Netgain, or a few others but the first 4 are all good. Curtis if you must but I'd not choose one. Steer way clear of the logisystem controller. The new kelly's are fine too. For batteries I'd try to go with Lithium for weight issues and for giving you good distance. The lead batteries are way heavy and only give 20 to 30 miles at best for a small car like this. Lithium if you can afford it are the way to go. 

Pete


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## yeti (Jun 11, 2010)

Thanks for all of the help! I don't know much about cars so....is 3900 a good price? I'd be selling everything I wouldn't be needing. (fyi)


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

3900 what?

The price will depend on what currency and which country you are in as much as the condition of the car.

If you are in the UK then it would be a reasonable price for the car if it was fairly sound and road worthy with little welding, if any, needed. The car would fetch more if it was in perfect condition and a lot less if it needed body repairs.

The main places they rot is in the sills, the floors and inside the front wings and rear wheel arches and also the boot/trunk floor and the rear light pods.

If the sills have been done, and they would probably have needed repair unless it has lived all its life in the desert, then you want to know if it has been done properly. 
The sills are four part. Inner sill, central diaphram, outer sill and castle section underneath. There should also be a jacking point reinforcer inside, I would usually fit two.
Some cars have only had the outer sill cover welded on and ll the rust and rot hidden inside, especially where the sill is hidden by the rear wheel arch.

If you don't know much about cars and you want an MGB then you really need to get a book on renovating MGBs and have someone who knows them well to have a look for you.

If you find a dirt cheap example with totally rotted body work then whole new body shells are still being made, usually available via the owners clubs, so you can just swap over the mechanicals you are keeping. This can be a very cost and labour effective way to convert to EV especially if you intend to recondition all the mechanical parts but wish to avoid lots of body welding.


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## yeti (Jun 11, 2010)

Thank you very much for your help, but I told the seller what I was doing and I doubt she's going to sell it to me now..Oh well, it was probably too nice to be my first conversion anyway!


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## tinrobot (Aug 26, 2009)

yeti said:


> Thank you very much for your help, but I told the seller what I was doing and I doubt she's going to sell it to me now..Oh well, it was probably too nice to be my first conversion anyway!


Sorry to hear that. I'm sure something even better will come along.

Just remember, if you're going to put hundreds of hours of your time and thousands of dollars of your money into a conversion, then the car you choose can never be "too nice." Whatever car you eventually choose to convert, make sure it's a nice, solid vehicle that you'll enjoy driving.


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## yeti (Jun 11, 2010)

tinrobot said:


> Sorry to hear that. I'm sure something even better will come along.
> 
> Just remember, if you're going to put hundreds of hours of your time and thousands of dollars of your money into a conversion, then the car you choose can never be "too nice." Whatever car you eventually choose to convert, make sure it's a nice, solid vehicle that you'll enjoy driving.


Mhm, wise words. I'll definitely take that into consideration!


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## Guest (Jun 13, 2010)

And don't reveal to the owner that you are planning on converting it to electric. Die Hards may just back out on you. I had that happen a few times before I found my Ghia. Just let them know it will go to a good home and be taken care of lovingly. 

Pete


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

yeti said:


> Thank you very much for your help, but I told the seller what I was doing and I doubt she's going to sell it to me now..Oh well, it was probably too nice to be my first conversion anyway!


Not a good move.

When I got my MR2 with the blown engine I used that as an excuse to negotiate the cost down. It was only after the car was mine that I told him I was converting anyway.

Do you want an MR2 to convert? I'd trade you for an MGB.


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## yeti (Jun 11, 2010)

Woodsmith said:


> Not a good move.
> 
> When I got my MR2 with the blown engine I used that as an excuse to negotiate the cost down. It was only after the car was mine that I told him I was converting anyway.
> 
> Do you want an MR2 to convert? I'd trade you for an MGB.


My first mistake in the electric car business. 


What year?;]]]]]]]]]]]]]


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## elanmel (May 3, 2010)

I looked at a couple of MGB's when I was starting my donor search--they are very beautiful, and can be found in all sorts of condition (and prices). Ultimately, though, I decided to go with a Spitfire--they weigh a few hundred pounds less, and some folks are doing them as direct drive (eg, Bottomfeeder's Spitwire in the Garage).

If you are in the LA area, I may have a lead on some less expensive donors--send me a PM. Good luck!


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

yeti said:


> My first mistake in the electric car business.
> 
> 
> What year?;]]]]]]]]]]]]]


Mine is a 1991 G Limited Japanese import. The only rust on it is on a few bolt heads holding the underbody pans on and on the now defunct radiators.

It is quite a clean car, especially considering its age.


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## yeti (Jun 11, 2010)

Woodsmith said:


> Mine is a 1991 G Limited Japanese import. The only rust on it is on a few bolt heads holding the underbody pans on and on the now defunct radiators.
> 
> It is quite a clean car, especially considering its age.





No thank you. I hope we can still be friends?!


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

yeti said:


> No thank you. I hope we can still be friends?!


Sure!

It would still be good to see you do and EV MGB though.

What other donor cars would you be looking for?


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## yeti (Jun 11, 2010)

Woodsmith said:


> Sure!
> 
> It would still be good to see you do and EV MGB though.
> 
> What other donor cars would you be looking for?


Anything that's light, cheap, and looks good (gotta have the honeys swarmin' my ride)


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## pinetree (Jun 10, 2010)

Woodsmith said:


> Going light weight is a good thing but not always practical as most end up going with whatever they can get hold of.
> 
> You can get MGB bonnets in aluminium, that saves a lot of weight. Fibreglass wings help too. Also you could look at getting a Sebring MGB body kit and remove the chrome bumpers. You don't have to go with the wide arches though.
> 
> ...


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## tinrobot (Aug 26, 2009)

elanmel said:


> I looked at a couple of MGB's when I was starting my donor search--they are very beautiful, and can be found in all sorts of condition (and prices). Ultimately, though, I decided to go with a Spitfire--they weigh a few hundred pounds less, and some folks are doing them as direct drive (eg, Bottomfeeder's Spitwire in the Garage).


One of the really nice things about Spitfires is the way the whole front bonnet opens up - makes it very easy to work on them.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Talking about Spitfires have you seen the "Hurricane" conversion

http://www.caburn.demon.co.uk/Contents/CaburnEngineering/Hurricane/

For those of us who were brought up to think of spitfires as girly cars this conversion massively improves the looks


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## neanderthal (Jul 24, 2008)

The 1st generation mazda rx-7 is also light, cheap, and easy to find one with no rust. But I'm partial, that's what I used in my conversion.

They weighed about 2300 lbs with the original rotary engine, which is heavier than the car you guys have been discussing, but the rotary engine is surprisingly heavy, and the exhaust is hot so the exhaust system is very heavy, as are the exhaust shields. So once you remove those it is a very very light and sturdy body.

I never weighed it post stripping, though, so I can't help out there.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hurricane v Spitfire


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