# J1772 Vehicle connector



## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

Note: This is the pin side view, the wires come out the other side










I plan on buying a waterproof enclosure soon!


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

Just talked to one of my suppliers about this plug. He said someone installed one near their office. I may make one of those pigtails to carry with me. How does it work, you feed it like a parking meter? lol


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## corbin (Apr 6, 2010)

Nice! Where did you get the plug from?

corbin


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## tinrobot (Aug 26, 2009)

Is that for level II/240v charging? 

Doesn't the J1772 spec also include level I/120v charging? Anyone know how specify voltage to the charging station?


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

ElectriCar said:


> Just talked to one of my suppliers about this plug. He said someone installed one near their office. I may make one of those pigtails to carry with me. How does it work, you feed it like a parking meter? lol


When you signup on the website they give you a card which is read by the charging station. The charging station owner can set the pricing, it might be 2 bucks just to plug in, or charged based on consumption, or free. We have a few at work.


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

corbin said:


> Nice! Where did you get the plug from?
> 
> corbin


Here is the link:
http://shop.transatlanticelectricconversions.com/J1772-Socket-female-10022.htm


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## GerhardRP (Nov 17, 2009)

etischer said:


> Note: This is the pin side view, the wires come out the other side
> 
> I plan on buying a waterproof enclosure soon!


What connects to pins 3, 4 and 5 and what is supposed to happen?
Gerhard


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

tinrobot said:


> Is that for level II/240v charging?
> 
> Doesn't the J1772 spec also include level I/120v charging? Anyone know how specify voltage to the charging station?


 
The plug I bought is for Level II (240V). The charging stations at my work are only putting out 208v but it's still better than 115! 

Over all I'm happy with the plug. One complaint is that the pins are a bit loose, and the wire leads appear to be 10awg. I would limit your current to 30A even though the standard supports up to 80A. I doubt much of the DIY crowd is pulling more than 30A 240V any how. 

The charging stations have a Level I outlet that is basically a standard 115v outlet like you have at home. It's limited to 16 amps, so it is painfully slow, my manzanita doesn't seem to be very efficient at this low current level.


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

GerhardRP said:


> What connects to pins 3, 4 and 5 and what is supposed to happen?
> Gerhard


Pin 3 is the common (and ground) 

Between Pin 3 - Pin 5 is "Proximity detection", a square wave generated by the charging station. The duty cycle of this square wave tells the car charger what the ampacity of the supply circuit is. It can also tell the charger to stop drawing current so the connector can be unplugged without breaking alot of current. In the future this will be used for data communications with the car. 

Between Pin 3 - Pin 4 is "Control Pilot", a signal based on resistance from the car charger to the charging station. Once the car charger is connected and has read the ampacity signal from the charging station, it can enable power from the charging station by closing the switch. Pins 4 & 5 are shorter than the power pins, so power should be killed if unplugging with the power on. 

Proximity detection is not required if you manually control the current of your charger. If you pull too much current the charging station will error out (and send you a text message).


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

As a side note, if you use the J1772, make a box big enough to get a firm grip. It takes a stupid amount of force to unplug the J1772. Perhaps my plug and receptacle are still getting broken in, it almost requires two people. I would use a sturdy enclosure!


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## Russco (Dec 23, 2008)

etischer said:


> When you signup on the website they give you a card which is read by the charging station. The charging station owner can set the pricing, it might be 2 bucks just to plug in, or charged based on consumption, or free. We have a few at work.


And what is the website? Thanks.








[/quote]


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

Russco said:


> And what is the website? Thanks.


http://www.coulombtech.com/ 
cheers


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

We're getting one or more in another town near me so that's going to be two within 20 miles I know of. ANYONE KNOW HOW MUCH IT TYPICALLY COSTS?


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

etischer said:


> As a side note, if you use the J1772, make a box big enough to get a firm grip. It takes a stupid amount of force to unplug the J1772. Perhaps my plug and receptacle are still getting broken in, it almost requires two people. I would use a sturdy enclosure!


Maybe you should attach a handle to the back of your plug box to give you something to grip.


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> Maybe you should attach a handle to the back of your plug box to give you something to grip.


the grip would have to mount to the lid, the four tiny screws that hold the lid on would probably tear though. The plastic box is already getting deformed from the grip required. 

I was thinking of a wider, flatter box, something I can hold down with one foot while I pull with both hands on the angled plug. Some dielectric grease might help, it could just be dry o-rings binding.


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

etischer said:


> As a side note, if you use the J1772, make a box big enough to get a firm grip. It takes a stupid amount of force to unplug the J1772. Perhaps my plug and receptacle are still getting broken in, it almost requires two people. I would use a sturdy enclosure!


Hey Guys,

Sorry, Not to be pa*n but do you think this setup on the picture a bit unsafe, where bystander can pull cord from the car, where the gas cap used to be and it will still be energized... then it could be dropped in to the puddle...
That why j1772 standard has those 3 and 4 pins to supply signal back to the charger to turn it off... and lock hole under the push-button.

We just have 3 public Charging Stations Opened with just J1772, see it here in my BLOG:http://www.google.com/search?q=1-ev.blogspot.com  

My 2c
-Y.


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

Do you think it's safe to work on 170V+ DC battery packs? Lots of things we do isn't as safe as we'd like and certainly it isn't wise to kick caution to the wind but you have to be practical. I'm buildind the same setup but with a longer cord from the vehicle to the "box" so I can leave the box in the back of my truck or on the ground. It is in a weather resistant box so that is a plus.


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## azdeltawye (Dec 30, 2008)

1-ev.com said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Sorry, Not to be pa*n but do you think this setup on the picture a bit unsafe....


I considered this and decided to install the J1772 connector in the vehicle for added safety and to prevent theft of the adapter box. 

The cordsets on the right are for charging at home from 120 or 240V.


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

ElectriCar said:


> Do you think it's safe to work on 170V+ DC battery packs? Lots of things we do isn't as safe as we'd like and certainly it isn't wise to kick caution to the wind but you have to be practical. I'm buildind the same setup but with a longer cord from the vehicle to the "box" so I can leave the box in the back of my truck or on the ground. It is in a weather resistant box so that is a plus.


I met to say that we have to worry about bystanders to start lawsuits, they could use unapproved plug as an excuse... to get some money 

On another hand if plug has a lock and it locked (j1772), then precautions were taken... 

I am not to questioning ability of the professionals to work with Hi voltage 

-Y.


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

azdeltawye said:


> I considered this and decided to install the J1772 connector in the vehicle for added safety and to prevent theft of the adapter box.
> 
> The cordsets on the right are for charging at home from 120 or 240V.


Agreed... Good setup. The regular plug end could be hidden behind closed door, witch is locked too... I hope... like http://www.coulombtech.com/ 

At least some thing like this lock-out Tag-out box http://www.jabac.com/documents/p170.pdf 

Also, Can just lower left cable be used with 120v Adapter and the switch 120/240v? 

-Y.


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

azdeltawye said:


> I considered this and decided to install the J1772 connector in the vehicle for added safety and to prevent theft of the adapter box.
> 
> The cordsets on the right are for charging at home from 120 or 240V.


Nice but you have half a grand tied up in those cord sets. I thought about doing that but I'd have to spring for the other cord end and wire the vehicle for the switch. I may do it one day on another truck, one I would like to keep for a long time.


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## peggus (Feb 18, 2008)

etischer said:


> Pin 3 is the common (and ground)
> 
> Between Pin 3 - Pin 5 is "Proximity detection", a square wave generated by the charging station. The duty cycle of this square wave tells the car charger what the ampacity of the supply circuit is. It can also tell the charger to stop drawing current so the connector can be unplugged without breaking alot of current. In the future this will be used for data communications with the car.
> 
> ...



You seem to be a bit confused. The proximity is just a passive resistor network between the proximity pin and ground, it changes resistance when the latch release button on the coupler is pressed. It does not connect to the EVSE, it is only used by the vehicle to stop charging when the button is depressed and also to detect the insertion of the coupler and disabling the vehicle so you can't drive away. It is in no way necessary, just a nice to have thing.

The pilot signal is the +-12V 1kHz square wave with a 1kOhm source impedance. The duty cycle signals the current available and the amplitude of the positive half is controlled by the vehicle through load resistors and indicates the vehicle charging status/request.


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## peggus (Feb 18, 2008)

It's a female plug on the cord (or should be), no different from using a regular extension cord. The EVSE is also a GFI so you'll have to try hard to kill yourself.



1-ev.com said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Sorry, Not to be pa*n but do you think this setup on the picture a bit unsafe, where bystander can pull cord from the car, where the gas cap used to be and it will still be energized... then it could be dropped in to the puddle...
> That why j1772 standard has those 3 and 4 pins to supply signal back to the charger to turn it off... and lock hole under the push-button.
> ...


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## IamIan (Mar 29, 2009)

1-ev.com said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Sorry, Not to be pa*n but do you think this setup on the picture a bit unsafe, where bystander can pull cord from the car, where the gas cap used to be and it will still be energized... then it could be dropped in to the puddle...
> That why j1772 standard has those 3 and 4 pins to supply signal back to the charger to turn it off... and lock hole under the push-button.


Why wouldn't it detect the open circuit ( current goes to zero ) when you unplug it?

It is my understanding that it is monitoring current flow real time.

Also ... I thought these chargers had GFI & over current protection built into them ... if that is true dropping it in the puddle ( a short circuit ) should result in no current at all.

I suppose the risk question would be , how fast the circuit reacts before it cuts the current? ... and there could be a momentary arc when the person pulled the live plug ... but 208V @ 30A does not have the capacity to arc very far.

A greater risk might be on the car side if the DIY project has none of these safety mechanisms to disconnect the traction battery when the connectors are exposed under the gas cap.


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## peggus (Feb 18, 2008)

IamIan said:


> ....
> A greater risk might be on the car side if the DIY project has none of these safety mechanisms to disconnect the traction battery when the connectors are exposed under the gas cap.


If you connected your battery straight to the AC plug you have other worse problems....


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

IamIan said:


> Why wouldn't it detect the open circuit ( current goes to zero ) when you unplug it?
> 
> It is my understanding that it is monitoring current flow real time.
> 
> ...


Here is more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772 
-Y.


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## IamIan (Mar 29, 2009)

peggus said:


> If you connected your battery straight to the AC plug you have other worse problems....


?? I'm confused by that ??

DC Battery connected straight to a AC plug ... yeah ... that would probably be bad... I don't know who would do that.??

Even if someone did ... I don't see it as having worse danger potential compared to a live DIY traction battery connection ... very few AC plugs can put out the same watts of peak power a BEV traction battery can.

I would also expect a straight AC plug connected the the DC traction battery to pop the AC fuse very quickly ... thus de-energizing the AC line.

- - - - - - - - 



1-ev.com said:


> Here is more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772
> -Y.


I still don't get it???

All of the models monitor current ... when the hypothetical person walked up and unplugged it ... Current in the now open circuit must go to zero and the charger knows it... charging has stopped.

Dropping the connector in the water puddle is not dangerous when the connector is not energized.

Even if the start charging signal was somehow resent after the connector was in the puddle ... all the models have GFI built in as well ... which would prevent the drop charging plug in puddle from being a hazard.

The GFI would have to be disabled ... the charge signal would have to be resent while the plug was in the puddle... and even then ... the puddle is creating an electrical short circuit ... even the most basic charger would pop a fuse when short circuited like that.

So I still don't see get why there would be much significant expected hazard in the previous example? ... What am I missing?



1-ev.com said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Sorry, Not to be pa*n but do you think this setup on the picture a bit unsafe, where bystander can pull cord from the car, where the gas cap used to be and it will still be energized... then it could be dropped in to the puddle...
> That why j1772 standard has those 3 and 4 pins to supply signal back to the charger to turn it off... and lock hole under the push-button.


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

IamIan said:


> ?? I'm confused by that ??
> 
> DC Battery connected straight to a AC plug ... yeah ... that would probably be bad... I don't know who would do that.??
> 
> ...


Hey IamIan,

My initial comment was about plug that connected to vehicle, right after J1772 connected to the adapter, where switch on adapter "keeps" power going, while gas cap connector unplugged, with the "hot" connectors, that IS UNSAFE!!!

Speaking how j1772 works - this is different question, all specs are published here http://www.sae.org/servlets/works/committeeHome.do?comtID=TEVHYB3

Pin 3 and 4 on J1772 designed for feedback to the "Charger" (this technically is not a charger, just a box that turns on and off 220v AC), you have google how j1772 works, some videos on YouTube... 

In brief pings 3 and 4 are shorter, therefor they are connecting last and disconnecting first.... and Ground pin is the longest, so you connecting ground first, as you pushing plug to connect it...

Yazaki's SAE J1772 design was selected by SAE as safest from those been offered...

We have been dealing with Yazaki corporation inn the past , they are very good company, hope we have more like those in USA.....

Hope this helps,
-Youri


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

I'm pretty sure once you unplug from a UL listed charger the power is shut off to the cord. Isn't that what the monitoring circuit for, to detect the presence of a vehicle and not energize the cord unless it's plugged in?


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

1-ev.com said:


> Hey IamIan,
> 
> My initial comment was about plug that connected to vehicle, right after J1772 connected to the adapter, where switch on adapter "keeps" power going, while gas cap connector unplugged, with the "hot" connectors, that IS UNSAFE!!!


Any extension cord plugged into an outlet is going to be live, that is why they require GFI protection for outdoor outlets. If there is a ground fault, the charging station will kill power to the J1772 cord set, just like any GFI protected outlet.


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

ElectriCar said:


> I'm pretty sure once you unplug from a UL listed charger the power is shut off to the cord. Isn't that what the monitoring circuit for, to detect the presence of a vehicle and not energize the cord unless it's plugged in?


Yes, You are correct, but in case where JUST - j1772 cable used between "Charging black BOX" and vehicle, not some other connector AFTER j1772 with "hot" connectors, maintained by switch on the converter box....



etischer said:


> Any extension cord plugged into an outlet is going to be live, that is why they require GFI protection for outdoor outlets. If there is a ground fault, the charging station will kill power to the J1772 cord set, just like any GFI protected outlet.


GFI protected outlet usually permanent mounted 1ft or more of the ground on the wall and not subject to the water flood, such as cable in the puddle, etc.

Matter effect, above ground pools has to be 6ft (forgive me exact number) from nearest outlet of 110v due to the electric code in FL for example, if pool looses water, it will not flood the outlet...


My 2c
-Y


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

1-ev.com said:


> GFI protected outlet usually permanent mounted 1ft or more of the ground on the wall and not subject to the water flood, such as cable in the puddle, etc.
> 
> Matter effect, above ground pools has to be 6ft (forgive me exact number) from nearest outlet of 110v due to the electric code in FL for example, if pool looses water, it will not flood the outlet...
> 
> ...


If a GFI outlet/circuit breaker is submerged underwater it may not protect you from electrical shock. This is different than the end of a cord underwater, the GFI will still provide protection. 

I'm guessing this is why they want you to mount the GFI 1ft above ground level, the circuit feeding the GFI is likely not GFI protected.


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## IamIan (Mar 29, 2009)

etischer said:


> If a GFI outlet/circuit breaker is submerged underwater it may not protect you from electrical shock. This is different than the end of a cord underwater, the GFI will still provide protection.


That was my thought.

- - - - - - - - 

The power control unit itself ( the box you get the cord from ) has GFI built into it ... unless I am missing something.

This seems very much like this example: 
Plug an extension cord into the GFI outlet ... drop the end of the extension cord into a bath tub ... the GFI outlet is supposed to kill the power and prevent electrocution... Unless I am missing something the same thing will happen with the GFI outlet inside the box you get the cord from.

- - - - - - - - - 



1-ev.com said:


> My initial comment was about plug that connected to vehicle, right after J1772 connected to the adapter, where switch on adapter "keeps" power going, while gas cap connector unplugged, with the "hot" connectors, that IS UNSAFE!!!


The adapter does not start the power ... there is zero current & zero power... It's an electrical open circuit... even with the adapter connected this does not change.

'Hot' , yes ... but no more 'Hot' than the end of an extension cord that is plugged into a GFI outlet ... if anything it is even less 'Hot' ... the power supply limits current ... and will cut power if the current exceeds the rated Amps ... it will do this even without the GFI and even without a short circuit ... it will exceed the rated amps very quickly if you put the end of the cord into a puddle creating an electrical short circuit ... it will exceed the rated amps through the electrical short before the voltage can build up to full.

Is it perfect ... no ... is it unsafe? ... well I guess that is subjective.

Myself I still don't see how even with the adapter it is anything but still more safe than a regular GFI outlet , and more safe than the exposed traction battery terminals might be on the car... unless the car's battery connection under that gas cap has more protection than the GFI + over current shut off of the power supply ... the plug and adapter are far safer.


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## corbin (Apr 6, 2010)

cjmisa said:


> Does anyone knows where I can buy the J1772 inlet..


The best price is at:

http://www.tucsonev.com

corbin


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

cjmisa said:


> Does anyone knows where I can buy the J1772 inlet..


I've got mine from these guys:
http://modularevpower.com
http://stores.ebay.com/Modular-EV-Power 

my 2 c,
-Y


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

To add to the thread: (please excuse the saw dust)

I mounted the J1772 socket to my car. I have an open car, so I placed the plug near the driver's left knee. 









I can not even get into the car without unplugging. 
I can plug it in from outside the car easily.
It is semi-protected from the weather by the dash board overhang.








(BTW: it plugs and unplugs easily. about 2#lbs of effort.)

I have the "spoofer" board (Mounted to the left side-little green thing.-not finished in this pic.)to communicate with the power station to turn on the current. The little board has an additional side benefit, it has a relay with NO/NC contacts so I can install a charging status L.E.D. or to turn on/off an additional accessory if needed.

True, the pilot and signal pins are shorter than the power pins. This is an additional safety feature to help stop plug arcing.

I have the male end plug and cord in my home for charging there. I have a wall mounted box with a gfci and a line voltage contactor, controlled by a 12VDC relay which receives it's 12VDC signal from the on-car "spoofer" board. It operates just like a regular charging station. No power until plugged in and then it senses a charger and system in the circuit.

A lot of thought and engineering has gone into this unit. It seems to be in the process of being adopted as the universal standard, at least here in the USA. 

My local EV power stations charge about twice the electricity cost I pay at home. I guess they must repay equipment costs as well as some profit.

(I call them a "power" station because that is all they provide. The charger is mine. Although there is mention of a real DC charging station, I have not seen one actually in-service here in Phoenix metro area.)

Miz


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## 1-ev.com (Nov 4, 2010)

Miz,
Do you have any pic to share?
txs, -Y


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Pix added above. Install not finished at that time. Saw dust everywhere. makes everything look ugly. Sorry for the glare, but I am not a good Photog.

Miz


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## 7tronics (Jan 29, 2014)

peggus said:


> ...The proximity is just a passive resistor network between the proximity pin and ground, it changes resistance when the latch release button on the coupler is pressed. It does not connect to the EVSE, it is only used by the vehicle to stop charging when the button is depressed and also to detect the insertion of the coupler and disabling the vehicle so you can't drive away. It is in no way necessary, just a nice to have thing.
> 
> The pilot signal is the +-12V 1kHz square wave with a 1kOhm source impedance. The duty cycle signals the current available and the amplitude of the positive half is controlled by the vehicle through load resistors and indicates the vehicle charging status/request.


Followup: I have Yazaki J1772 cable and am building a JuiceBox EVSE. The Yazaki cable doesn't bring out the proximity lead, and JuiceBox v8.6 doesn't use the proximity lead.

? Does the button on the Yazaki J1772 connector do anything electrically when depressed before removing the connector from the socket in the EV? Or is the car side or EVSE logic detecting the pilot pulling out first and dropping power before the hot connector pins can be withdrawn? I can't tell from the Yazaki site.


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## 7tronics (Jan 29, 2014)

7tronics said:


> Followup: I have Yazaki J1772 cable and am building a JuiceBox EVSE. The Yazaki cable doesn't bring out the proximity lead, and JuiceBox v8.6 doesn't use the proximity lead.
> 
> ? Does the button on the Yazaki J1772 connector do anything electrically when depressed before removing the connector from the socket in the EV? Or is the car side or EVSE logic detecting the pilot pulling out first and dropping power before the hot connector pins can be withdrawn? I can't tell from the Yazaki site.


After taking un-connected Yazaki plug to our EV, I understand the drawings now. The switch and proximity feature are in the plug and do not need to be brought out to the EVSE box at all.


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## evpower (Aug 9, 2013)

Our project for EV community - "Simple-EVSE"

Simple EVSE board for J1772 and other IEC-60309 based connectors 











https://code.google.com/p/simple-evse/

http://www.ev-power.eu/index.php?cl=search&searchparam=EVSE


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## twright (Aug 20, 2013)

How do you buy one of these EVSE circuit boards?


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## evpower (Aug 9, 2013)

twright said:


> How do you buy one of these EVSE circuit boards?


The next batch of "EVSE boards" will be ready around March 20th.

In the mean time you can also get this:
http://www.ev-power.eu/Special-Prod...72-with-cable-16-Amp-5m-incl-electronics.html


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## davidlcoffin67 (Oct 8, 2017)

this is exactly the solution i'm looking for- i have an electric scooter and this would be perfect for level 1 charging. did you make the box yourself? can i buy one already made, for level 1 output to 110 volt? do you have a schematic? this would greatly increase my range, if i can take advantage of those charging stations since it's almost impossible to find a simple 110 volt plug anywhere that i can use without being treated like a homeless person.
--david


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## davidlcoffin67 (Oct 8, 2017)

in the schematic given for constructing a simple connection to the chargepoint: what should the voltage and power rating be for the one-way diode? also, what power ratings should the resistors be?


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## ga2500ev2017 (Jun 12, 2017)

davidlcoffin67 said:


> in the schematic given for constructing a simple connection to the chargepoint: what should the voltage and power rating be for the one-way diode? also, what power ratings should the resistors be?


David,

The pilot signal is +/- 12V current limited by a 1K resistor. So 12V @ 12 mA is 144 mW. So a 1/4 watt resistors and diode will be fine.

The one job your charger will have to deal with is the maximum charging current sent the PWM signal. Technically J1772 allows for 6A minimum current. While it's not an issue with chargepoint because they are generally 30A stations, it is something to keep in mind.

ga2500ev


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