# Electric Vette



## major (Apr 4, 2008)

r768 said:


> ....runs as good or better than the gas guzzling V8. I've been looking at the HPEVS ....


You'll need a much stronger motor & control package.


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

Thanks for the input. Can you suggest an alternative? This is my first attempt with an electric conversion project and I have no experience with electric motors or controllers. 

Thanks,
Rick


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Depends on your goals, but something like this would do the trick:

http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=8&products_id=300 

or from this page: 

http://www.evdrive.com/products/evd-motor-controller/ 

Performance ain't cheap. How much would it cost you for a new Vette V8 engine and transmission package?


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

r768 said:


> The goal is to have a finished project that runs as good or better than the gas guzzling V8. I've been looking at the HPEVS Dual-AC35/36 and the AC75/76. The 76 would be easer on the budget, but I'm not sure how well it will move a 3,000lbs hotrod around town.


I think you would find the AC-50 to be a better choice than the AC-75/76. The peak HP output is the same because it is limited by the controller rather than the motor. The difference is the the torque and the width of the torque band. The AC-50 has less torque but over a wider RPM range. When you add in gearing to make the torque the same with both motors the torque band is almost the same. Then the difference becomes that the AC-7X weighs more.

Going up in price with AC systems you have
The HPEVS single controller setup (72kw) @ $4650
The Siemens/DMOC from the ETransit Connect (100kw) @ $5245
The UQM setup from the CODA (100kw) @ $8500
The Dual AC-35 setup from HPEVS (144kw) @ $8900

They go up quickly in price from that point.

DC systems are less expensive for the power output.

Netgain WarP9 with Soliton Jr (85kw) @ $3990
Netgain WarP9 with Soliton 1 (170kw) @ $4990
Netgain Warp11HV with Soliton 1 (288kw) @ $6185
Siamese WarP9 with Soliton 1 (300kw) @ $6985
Netgain WarP 11HV with Zilla HV 2K (403kw) @ $7089
Siamese Warp9 with Zilla HV 2K (600kw) @ $7889
Siamese WarP9 with two Zilla HV 2K (768kw) @ $11788

Basically the DC motors have the disadvantage of no easy way to do regen
braking and they have brushes which need to be replaced occasionally. It is also more complicated to get them to reverse rotation direction but this is not a problem if you have a transmission with reverse.

The kw ratings are approximate peak motor input power which cannot be maintained for very long. Divide by 746 to get horsepower (example 85kw is 85000/746 = 113.94 HP). The prices are for new parts from the higher end shops.

The motor/controller combos are important but are often not the limiting factor. That is usually the batteries. In other words don't expect to get power levels of 170kw or greater from just any battery arrangement. You will need to plan this carefully.

As far as moving a 3000 lb car around town all of them will do this with an appropriate gearbox. The single motor AC50 setup will move you around in traffic but it won't feel like a Vette except in first gear. Pretty much any of the others will feel at least as quick in city driving conditions and the car originally did if the gearbox matches the motor well.

Best wishes!


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## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

The DC systems will give you a pretty zippy car. But with a big heavy car that you drive hard, the limitations of liquid cooling will be a thorn in your side. Going with a dual motor setup will help a lot in that regard, and would give you peak powers that would make you pretty confident at red lights.

Going with an HPEVS system won't change this calculus much, as they are also air cooled. The AC7X would be marginally better than the AC5X, as you have more thermal mass for the same power. As Doug pointed out, you'll get the same power out of the two, just the torque curve is different. With multiple gears at your disposal, this doesn't really make a difference. Still, I wouldn't even dream of putting less than the dual 35 system if I were going with an HPEVS system in a Vette.

As Major pointed out, the AMR motors offered by EVWest or EVDrive are incredible. Rimac Automobili uses them in their electric Hypercar. But they'll blow your budget before you even buy anything else.


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

major said:


> Depends on your goals, but something like this would do the trick:
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> ...



I have other gas and E85 burning hotrods. I’m just looking to try something a little different, but still fun to drive. 

Thanks,
Rick


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

The AC-50 has less torque but over a wider RPM range. When you add in gearing to make the torque the same with both motors the torque band is almost the same. Then the difference becomes that the AC-7X weighs more.

Thanks for the info regarding the AC50. I have a lot to learn regarding torque and HP of electric motors. What I know regarding ICE power plants does seem to directly apply. 

I definitely will like to go with an AC motor so I haven’t looked seriously at the DC options. 

I also have a bit to learn when it comes to batteries and the differences between too much and too little when it comes to pack amps. 


Thanks
Rick


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

As Major pointed out, the AMR motors offered by EVWest or EVDrive are incredible. Rimac Automobili uses them in their electric Hypercar. But they'll blow your budget before you even buy anything else.[/QUOTE]

I agree, Major’s suggestions would be lots of fun. I think I will need a new rich uncle to swing that solution as my current one is seems to be tapped out whenever I stop by. 

Thanks for the input on the dual AC35. The dual AC35 was recommend by more than one of the motor vendors and is doable with my current budget.

Thanks,
Rick


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## Vhclbldr (Feb 8, 2014)

If you aren't using the donor car transmission, you could use the EV West Powerglide unit ($4995) http://www.evwest.com/catalog/produ...ucts_id=214&osCsid=t2kg3p3bgdsii3buvn7f2pmc13

Or the EV Glide from Kansas EV ($3250) http://www.kansasev.com/evglide-powertrain.html

Either one will give you two forward gears and a reverse without having to reverse the motor.


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

Vhclbldr said:


> If you aren't using the donor car transmission, you could use the EV West Powerglide unit ($4995)
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. This looks like a real neat compact option. The current plan is to use the stock 4speed but I have not put together the cost adaptor kits needed and I still need to inspect the internal condition of the transmission that came with the car. I can’t imagine needing 4k to get the stock unit to work, but I will put the numbers together before make a purchase.
> 
> ...


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## Vhclbldr (Feb 8, 2014)

My Electric Camino project will end up weighing around 3500 lbs, so I am interested in how the dual AC35 setup will work for you. My commute is considerably less, with fewer opportunities (and therefore less need) for regenerative braking (or the benefits it would provide), so the cost/performance of a DC system works for me.


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

My commute is considerably less, with fewer opportunities (and therefore less need) for regenerative braking (or the benefits it would provide), so the cost/performance of a DC system works for me.[/QUOTE]

I will keep the thread up to date with the final motor choice. I’m 90% on the dual 35. It looks like the best compromise between budget and dream at the point. I agree, bang for the buck is the DC route. I am looking towards the newer technology to experiment with the value of regeneration. 

Thanks,
Rick


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

r768 said:


> I’m 90% on the dual 35. It looks like the best compromise between budget and dream at the point.


This is a good choice. I have seen the HPEVS Vette with the dual 35 and it is a very quick car.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Has HPEVS made any dual AC-50's yet? A Corvette would make a good test case...


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Caps18 said:


> Has HPEVS made any dual AC-50's yet? A Corvette would make a good test case...


No, but Michel Bertrand Siamesed a pair in his 911 in 2013. He has a triple AC-35's now. There is little point in HPEVS doing AC-50's until there are better motor controllers. The peak power is going to be almost the same because it is limited by the controller, not the motor.


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## EV West (Jan 12, 2012)

The chart that Doug put together is great. Perfect having all that system info together like that. 

Since we love the reliability and straight forward approach of the HPEVS systems, here is our latest little creation. Triple AC51, putting out 216kW, and a tight enough package to fit under most hoods. This little setup is going in a Ferrari 308GTS that's in our shop at the moment. (mid engine into a flipped G50 transaxle)

If you want a fast 'Vette, this should do it.


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## Sunking (Aug 10, 2009)

You might want to rethink this project a bit with realistic objectives. As you are probably aware even with gas engines Speed and Smoky Tires cost big bucks. Replacing it with Electric Motors is extremely expensive and triple that if you also want high performance like a Corvette. 

While it would be possible to do some of what you want, you might find the trade-offs you have to sacrifice would render the vehicle useless. To get an electric motor with Vet like performance is going to consume huge amounts of power, so while it can be done, is not of much use if it can only go a few miles. On top of that you want an Air Conditioner, which robs you blind of those so few precious miles.


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## grip911 (Dec 14, 2011)

EV West said:


> The chart that Doug put together is great. Perfect having all that system info together like that.
> 
> Since we love the reliability and straight forward approach of the HPEVS systems, here is our latest little creation. Triple AC51, putting out 216kW, and a tight enough package to fit under most hoods. This little setup is going in a Ferrari 308GTS that's in our shop at the moment. (mid engine into a flipped G50 transaxle)
> 
> If you want a fast 'Vette, this should do it.


Why don`t you stick the controllers down into the air stream to cool them off and you wont need liquid cooling and chill plates blah! blah ! blah.! Your motors will certainly not need cooling when they all share the load. Also putting the 2 outside motors down low will improve the handling dramatically .....although flipping that Porsche transmission will lower the whole assembly as is, and therefore the CG......the Triple


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

Sunking said:


> You might want to rethink this project a bit with realistic objectives. As you are probably aware even with gas engines Speed and Smoky Tires cost big bucks. Replacing it with Electric Motors is extremely expensive and triple that if you also want high performance like a Corvette.
> 
> Dreams are Crushed! (lol) And I do apprecate the input.
> My dreams and reality usually start off very far apart. I have about 20k for motor and battery pack. Plus a bit for wire and all the unknown parts and components I’m sure I will learn about as the project develops. I never really intended to have a tire smoking 150mph corner straighter this go around. That was the dream part, but I think I can build a fun electric hotrod.
> ...


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## Sunking (Aug 10, 2009)

r768 said:


> My dreams and reality usually start off very far apart. I have about 20k for motor and battery pack.


Sorry I did not mean to do that. Obviously what you dream about can be done example Telsa Roadster, but at what cost?

Being a Corvette fan myself I cringed when I read your topic. If I had that same car and $20K I would be restoring it. Not only could I enjoy it back being put back in original factory condition, I could also get my money back and then some if I needed too by selling it to another Vette Head. Once converted I am afraid it becomes worthless other than salvage value for parts.


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Sunking said:


> Being a Corvette fan myself I cringed when I read your topic. If I had that same car and $20K I would be restoring it. Not only could I enjoy it back being put back in original factory condition, I could also get my money back and then some if I needed too by selling it to another Vette Head. Once converted I am afraid it becomes worthless other than salvage value for parts.


Today this is true. I would build the car in such a way that the ICE could be put back into it for resale. I suspect that in just a few years we will see completed conversions of cult cars like Corvettes selling for more than their used ICE counterparts.


There is a difference between Fast and Quick. I think of fast as top speed on a 10k ft runway. Quick is respectable 0-60 and 1/8th mile times or beating people from light to light. Getting to Fast is more expensive than Quick. My car is not fast. I can do a little over 100mph and I probably can't do that for very long without something bad happening in the motor. But it feels quick because of all the zero rpm torque. With gasoline ICE motors the torque figures tend to track the HP figures. So to get a lot of torque you need a lot of HP. I have a measured 266 ft-lb at 1000 amps. It should be flat at 266 ft-lb now that I have water cooling on my controller from 0 rpm to about 4000 rpm. You would probably need over 300 hp in a gasoline ICE to see that and it would most likely only appear between 3500 and 5500 rpm. With the batteries I have I am limited to a peak of around 120hp, maybe even a bit less. But the car feels quick because of all that low end torque.

Here are a few of Brian Seymour's 1/8 mile numbers for the HPEVS Dual AC-35 at EVCCon 2014:

[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]

The fastest time was John Metric with his purpose built drag car turned down to 1/4 of max power. Dual WarP 9's Dual Zillas.

[email protected]


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## EV West (Jan 12, 2012)

dougingraham said:


> I suspect that in just a few years we will see completed conversions of cult cars like Corvettes selling for more than their used ICE counterparts.


Yes. This. Definitely this.



dougingraham said:


> The fastest time was John Metric with his purpose built drag car turned down to 1/4 of max power. Dual WarP 9's Dual Zillas.
> 
> [email protected]



For another point of reference, we did a 7.997 @ 90.35 last year with a Shiva and twin 11's. 




grip911 said:


> Why don`t you stick the controllers down into the air stream to cool them off and you wont need liquid cooling and chill plates blah! blah ! blah.!


You always need liquid cooling on the Curtis. Always. Even the best air cooled heat sinks don't cut the mustard with the 1238/9 controllers.


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## grip911 (Dec 14, 2011)

EV West said:


> You always need liquid cooling on the Curtis. Always. Even the best air cooled heat sinks don't cut the mustard with the 1238/9 controllers.[/QU
> 
> you are absolutely right!


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

Sunking said:


> Sorry I did not mean to do that. Obviously what you dream about can be done example Telsa Roadster, but at what cost?
> 
> No Worries.
> 
> Being a Corvette fan myself I cringed when I read your topic. If I had that same car and $20K I would be restoring it. Not only could I enjoy it back being put back in original factory condition, I could also get my money back and then some if I needed too by selling it to another Vette Head. Once converted I am afraid it becomes worthless other than salvage value for parts.


I’m a big vette fan too. But this is a very beat and abused ’80 and most of it was in baskets and boxes when purchased. You may recall that the ’80 sported 185hp engine and the speedo only goes to 85mph. I think it is viewed as the slowest glass sled ever built. So I don’t feel too bad about making some improvements. 

Thanks,
Rick


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## Vhclbldr (Feb 8, 2014)

One of the things I wrote down some time ago was my mission statement. When I finally got my donor car and had a reason to begin chronicling my muscle-car mod, I posted it in my blog. You might think of doing the same so you can keep focused on your goal.

http://electriccamino.blogspot.com/2014/10/mission-statement.html

.... Just my own two cents...


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## nimblemotors (Oct 1, 2010)

So why start with a basket of parts to end up with an '80 'vette ? 
You can pick up the C4's very cheap all complete and even running.

It is your car of course, pick whatever one floats your boat, but if you read through many builds, the number one lesson learned is to start with a good car,
and make the e-conversion the effort, not rebuilding a car the effort.

And while posting, I will add my opinion classic hotrods as EVs is a really bad idea as an INVESTMENT, a good idea if that is what you want to drive, but don't think you can sell it for anything it cost to build as EV.
They are desired for their past, not the future, and the more original the better.

I will add also my opinion that converting a '1991 Toyota Corolla Wagon $22,000' as shown in the promo just now is also a rather poor idea,
an '80 vette is better than a '91 Corolla' for resale anyway, not good, just not as bad.





r768 said:


> But this is a very beat and abused ’80 and most of it was in baskets and boxes when purchased.


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## Mo_Bandy (Aug 25, 2009)

Well take a look at mine. 1996 C4 Corvette

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...electric-corvette-gets-an-new-powerplant.html

Drive train and batteries were purchased from EV West.

I had GBS 200 ah pack I was getting over 100 miles range.

I recently went with 108 CALB 100AH and I'm getting around 70 miles at 65 mph.

I'm still dialing in the new drive train.

MO


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

Mo_Bandy said:


> Well take a look at mine. 1996 C4 Corvette
> 
> http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...electric-corvette-gets-an-new-powerplant.html
> 
> ...


 

Great job on the conversion and very impressed with your results! I plan to make a final moter decision soon and hope to start collecting parts before the holidays.

Thanks,
Rick


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## Vhclbldr (Feb 8, 2014)

Mo, I need to pick your brain because I am waffling between using a single or dual 9" Transwarp motor setup on my Electric Camino project.

For both Vette owners, what is the stock and converted vehicle weights of your respective Vettes?


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## Mo_Bandy (Aug 25, 2009)

Vhcbldr,

I was at about 3426 stock and I am right at about 3725 now est.

If you go with a single motor I would suggest going with a 11" Netgain. If you want performance then perhaps go with twin 9".

Are you planning to run a transmission?

Sure shoot me a pm I will be happy to talk to you...

MO


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## Vhclbldr (Feb 8, 2014)

You can see my plans/progress in my blog below, but in short I was planning initially on running a single 9" with an EV glide trans. I think there is enough room for dual 9s, but that would affect the battery layout. When you went from a single 11" to dual 9s, did you find that the Zilla Z2K needed to be upgraded or was that primarily due to increased battery pack voltage (or both)?

Where did you get your trans, dual 9s, and Siamese unit? EV West?


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## Mo_Bandy (Aug 25, 2009)

Vhclbldr,

I updated the Zilla due to running more cells, when I went from 72 cells at 200 ah, I went to 108 CALB 100Ah. So it was strictly to use more cells.

I drove my Vette with a single 9" and a 4L60E for quite some time. It actually drove fine. I could easily do freeway speeds.

I like you am continually refining the car, I wanted more performance so I decided to go with the dual 9" motors and the shortie Powerglide.

Yes I purchased everything from EV West the adapters and such as well.

Best regards,
MO


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Vhclbldr said:


> Mo, I need to pick your brain because I am waffling between using a single or dual 9" Transwarp motor setup on my Electric Camino project.
> 
> For both Vette owners, what is the stock and converted vehicle weights of your respective Vettes?


I can't answer specifically for them but my car increased in weight about 200 lbs. It went from 2200 lbs to 2400 lbs. This is with a single WarP 9 and 52 of the 100 AH LiFe cells. I suspect my power plant weighed a little less than what was in the El Camino and the Corvettes so you would end up with less weight gain. My car is as stock as I could keep it. About the only thing that could be considered lightening would be I did not keep the spare tire and I have not yet put back in the sound deadening material in the rear deck area. I should do that as I get road and wind noise from back there.

Unless you are specifically planning on drag racing it I believe you will be satisfied with a single WarP 9 as long as you keep the transmission. Two motors means either twice the voltage or it means two controllers. In either case you need twice the battery to supply the power.

It is torque that spins tires and pushes you back in the seat. Torque comes from amps.

1 motor at 1000 amps and 150 volts = 266 ft-lb torque and max input power of 150kw or 201 hp.
2 motors in series at 1000 amps and 300 volts = 532 ft-lb torque and max input power of 300 kw or 402 hp.
2 motors in parallel at 2000 amps and 150 volts = 532 ft-lb torque and max input power of 300 kw or 402 hp. This would need either two 1000 amp controllers or one 2000 amp controller.

You can push more amps through these motors. If you push 2000 amps through them you get somewhere over 500 ft-lbs of torque. But doing this would require special brushes and those brushes are not very good at all for street use. They wear out quickly.


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## Vhclbldr (Feb 8, 2014)

That second option you listed intrigues me, Doug. I am looking at a compromise between running a single 9 with a lot of amps and dual 9s with two Zillas. If we go with dual 9's and 104 100AH CALBs, couldn't I use one Zilla on the two motors to get 400 hp without over-amping the stock brushes? Also, what would be the output at only 100 volts each and 1000 amps? (Fewer cells)

Rick, sorry to have hijacked your thread. I can take this conversation elsewhere if you want.


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

Rick, sorry to have hijacked your thread. I can take this conversation elsewhere if you want.[/QUOTE]

No worries, I’m new to the electric world and value all input.

To respond to the weight inquiry, the stock weight is advertized at just over 3200. I have been working at reducing weight were ever practical. During the suspension overhaul, I installed tubular A-frames and replaced the coil springs with poly mono springs front and rear. I’m hoping to end up with an end product at close to factory weight.

I am curious why you are interested to know why you are looking at DC motor options for street use. 

Thanks,
Rick


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

Rick, sorry to have hijacked your thread. I can take this conversation elsewhere if you want.[/QUOTE]

No worries, I’m new to the electric world and value all input.

To respond to the weight inquiry, the stock weight is advertized at just over 3200. I have been working at reducing weight were ever practical. During the suspension overhaul, I installed tubular A-frames and replaced the coil springs with poly mono springs front and rear. I’m hoping to end up with an end product at close to factory weight.

I am curious why you are interested to know why you are looking at DC motor options for street use. 

Thanks,
Rick


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Vhclbldr said:


> That second option you listed intrigues me, Doug. I am looking at a compromise between running a single 9 with a lot of amps and dual 9s with two Zillas. If we go with dual 9's and 104 100AH CALBs, couldn't I use one Zilla on the two motors to get 400 hp without over-amping the stock brushes? Also, what would be the output at only 100 volts each and 1000 amps? (Fewer cells)


One other option would be a single 11HV and a fresh off the charge voltage of near 340 volts with a Soliton and maybe 15 volts more than that with the Zilla EHV. You get a little more torque at 1000 amps (around 300 ft-lbs) with the 11HV. But you get a lot more HP because the motor is good up to 288 volts. So max input power for a single motor is 288kw (386 HP.)

Dual 9's with a single Zilla EHV and limiting to 1000 amps and 104 cells will give a peak input power of 333kw (446 hp) and as mentioned in an earlier post something over 500 ft-lbs of torque. Actual with battery sag will probably be 283 kw (379 hp). That is CALB CA cells. With the CALB SE cells it would be closer to 250kw (335 hp).

100 volts at 1000 amps times 2 motors is 200kw (100*1000*2 = 200000 watts). This 200000 watts = 268 hp (2000000/746 = 268.1).

A big problem when going for high power levels that most people tend to ignore is the battery. At the current time my 100 AH GBS cells appear to have a peak power output of about 1600 watts each. 1600 watts * 52 cells = 83.2 kw (112hp). They were better when newer and when hot do a little better. The 100 AH grey CALB CA cells are quite a bit better at least when new. It looks like they can do about 2700 watts each. 52 of them would be able to do 140kw (188 hp). I have no idea how they will age. And then there is the problem of where do you put 100 cells of that size.


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## Mo_Bandy (Aug 25, 2009)

Vhclbldr said:


> That second option you listed intrigues me, Doug. I am looking at a compromise between running a single 9 with a lot of amps and dual 9s with two Zillas. If we go with dual 9's and 104 100AH CALBs, couldn't I use one Zilla on the two motors to get 400 hp without over-amping the stock brushes? Also, what would be the output at only 100 volts each and 1000 amps? (Fewer cells)
> 
> Rick, sorry to have hijacked your thread. I can take this conversation elsewhere if you want.


Yes you can. 

Just as Doug mentioned in his previous post, his third iteration is pretty much where I am running my Vette.

I'm running 108 Calb SA 100 Ah's, I was told that the max draw is about 800 amps although i would not do this continually), I'm generally pulling around 500 amps from the batteries. I am running the two 9" in parallel at 156 V and a total of 1400 amps ( of course each motor is seeing 156 V and 700 amps ) if I bumped the current up to 1550 A it would put me pretty close to 325 HP. 
Even though 400HP is possible for normal everyday cruising, around it doesn't seem necessary to do so.

at my current setting i can quickly get up to freeway speeds and stay with traffic with no issues.

MO


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## Vhclbldr (Feb 8, 2014)

I was just wondering about battery placement/layout last night and have a question that Mo can answer and Rick might be interested in.

Mo, when you converted from your original packs to the 100AH cells, how did that affect your layout?

Also, do you notice any major effects on your SOC and rate with the packs split into two locations?

Third, what did you do for a speedometer when you eliminated the original transmission?

Finally, how long is your dual 9 + transmission unit (and how much did it cost you at that time)?

It looks to be about 24+24+16 inches, or in the ballpark of 64 inches total (not allowing more than 3-4 inches for adapters & couplers).
How close am I?


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## Mo_Bandy (Aug 25, 2009)

Hi There,

Mo, when you converted from your original packs to the 100AH cells, how did that affect your layout? *With the 200 AH I was at 825 pounds in the rear and 165 pounds in the front.* *Now I'm at 240 pounds in front (30 cells) with the battery box and about 786 pounds with(78 cells) the battery box in the rear.*


Also, do you notice any major effects on your SOC and rate with the packs split into two locations? *No they tend to stay well balanced, I'm using 2/0 cables to interconnect.*

Third, what did you do for a speedometer when you eliminated the original transmission?* I purchased an intelitronix GPS speedometer from Summit it connects right to the stock speedometer. I'm very pleased with it*

Finally, how long is your dual 9 + transmission unit (and how much did it cost you at that time)? *It ran me about $9850 for the motors adapter and the transmission. It is about 53 inches from the front motor shaft to the rear of the trans, the shafts at the coupler are cut down a couple inches the distance between the motors is about 4.625" I used a flat plate of aluminum and fabricated the front mount to use the stock motor mount locations.*

It looks to be about 24+24+16 inches, or in the ballpark of 64 inches total (not allowing more than 3-4 inches for adapters & couplers).
How close am I? *It is pretty darn close to the full length of a small block Chevy and transmission. About 20+20+13.7= I mounted mine at the same position as the stock transmission and worked forward.*


MO


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## Mo_Bandy (Aug 25, 2009)

Any updates on these builds?

MO


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## Mo_Bandy (Aug 25, 2009)

xghjfgh said:


> Thanks for the input. Can you suggest an alternative? This is my first attempt with an electric conversion project and I have no experience with electric motors or controllers.


Hi there, welcome to the forum. The best thing is to make a post and let us know what kind of car you are interested in converting and let us know whether it is a daily driver or what you wish to do with your car.

Mo

Vhclbldr sorry to hijack your thread.


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## r768 (Apr 7, 2013)

Apologies for the sluggish replies! Cooler weather (only got to 80deg yesterday) and drag race season here in AZ tends to eat up a lot of free time. I did talk with Michael at EV West Friday. I hope to drive out to their place to pickup the dual 35 motor and bell housing adaptor as soon as they are ready, hopefully in a couple of weeks. I sincerely appreciate the interest and comments and will send updates as they happen.

Thanks,
Rick


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## Vhclbldr (Feb 8, 2014)

Mo, 

Thanks for all of the feedback. I talked about some of the drivetrain options with John Metric, as well, and am eliminating the transmission entirely. Less weight and simpler mechanicals. Still doing bodywork on the Electric Camino.


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