# 90kW Enova Panther Inverter Smiths Edison Van



## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

Hi All
I have recently been researching and working out from a relatively complete wiring loom I have with it, as much as I can about my 90kW Enova Panther Inverter which was fitted to a Smiths Edison electric van here in the UK.
I am willing to share my findings and internal pictures of the inverter so far if anyone is interested. I know a few were on sale here in the past and another member was looking for help too: http://www.paulschilling.net/home. My inverter is the same afaik.
I know I am missing a few parts, but soon hope to power up some of the devices that I have which were connected on the CANbus for a few extra clues. It may help if I can work out how to read the CANbus somehow. I have only ever done this at work with an IXXAT device in the past, so wonder what I could do at home without great expense?
I note the Enova website is defunct and fear they are in financial trouble?
Does anyone have any pointers for info about these Enova inverters?
If I fail to get it working, I have some great parts (IGBTs and Caps and main heat sink) to which I would apply the kit I purchased of Herr Huebner. 
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Tim


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

FYI Some pictures here which may help DIY builders?:
http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/TimHadland/library/Enova Inverter?sort=3&page=1


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## High Tension (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi, any luck sorting the Enova Panther unit?


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

Hi 
Yes, but not using the Enova control electronics.
I have only used the power side - IGBTs and caps mainly.
I used an Johannes Heubner kit to control mine. It is now also much smaller. There are two inverters inside btw and a lot of unused space too.
I am also not yet competent to deal with the CANbus which I believe is required to get these inverters running as they are.
They are quality pieces of kit.
Good luck!
Tim


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## High Tension (Apr 29, 2009)

Well done so far then! I wonder how many have been skipped as too darn complicated to crack!

Keep up the good work


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

I hope to have one of these inverters soon. If people are interested I might design a retrofit pcb based on Johannes's system to run them.


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

Hi Damien
Just been corresponding with someone who has got one recently. I have some info thats worth trying to help get the Enova controls working. CANbus is involved, but to what extent I do not know. I worked out quite a few I/Os from the loom I had, which I am willing to share too. 
I also have some other bits of hardware that came with mine such as this:
http://cebinew.kicms.de/cebi/easyCMS/FileManager/Files/MES-DEA/components/MBS_micro.pdf
Will be interested to see what you find out.
cheers
Tim


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Thanks Tim. Will hopefully take possession in a few weeks.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Hi jackbauer

Did you receive your drive system?

EVElvis

Have you got yours running? Do you know any more specs than name plate for these? What are the IGBT ratings? What's your gear reduction ratio? Do you have pictures of the drive unit please?

How have you gotten on with the Juebner kit to run the controller?

Thanks 

Tyler


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

Hi Tyler

With the JHeubner kit yes, just wiring into project car now. 
Using the Enova power side only. I do have most Enova I/Os which are in agreement with someone else whos having a go at these Inverters. CANbus remains the unknown. Not sure if CANbus is needed to get the Enova electronics working?
Gearbox (heavy!) has ratio 2.54:1. IGBTs are Hitachi 600V, 600A. 
Pictures of the Drive unit here: http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/Ti...?sort=3&page=1

I think Damien will crack these. Im a beginner when it comes to electronics and CANbus. When I have my car on the road I will try and work it out.

What project do you have / have in mind?

cheers
Tim


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Yes have it on the bench. Not had much chance to examine but gut feeling is to design a drop in logic board. should be easy enough. just need some time and money


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## tom3141 (Jul 2, 2016)

Hi.

I recently picked up one of these Enova inverters too. I haven’t got a project to use it in yet but I set myself a bit of a challenge to try to get it working using the Enova control board.

I’ve been in touch with Tim (EVElvis) and obtained a lot of good info from him and I have also been tracing pins back to the PCBs to try to get my head around it. That’s about as far as I’ve got. I’m at a bit of a dead end now without a wiring diagram or full wiring loom to work from. 

I have attached a photo showing a pinout for the 60 pin connector. The red text is info from Tim, the black text is from tracing the pins back to the PCB. 

My main worry to start with was that the inverter would need to be controlled via the CANbus but that doesn’t seem to be the case. As far as I can tell the CANbus is only used to communicate with the battery management system. Whether this will be needed for the inverter to work I don’t know. The rest of the I/O (throttle pot, forward/reverse lever, warning lights etc) seem to be connected directly to the control board.

The problem is that I have no way of knowing what the rest of the unknown pins are for.

Has anyone got any further with this? Or does anyone have a wiring diagram, full wiring loom, or working Smiths Edison?

Thanks,

Tom


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

I have some video on this coming out in the next few days.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Enova gate driver board is awake and ready to accept pwm signals


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## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

Judging from the video you need an isolated 15 volts per phase externally, alot of "power" electronics on the main board. However, those small coils might be driven by the electronics on the driver board.

Have you measures the voltages at the gate pins once you power it on?


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

The driver board has 6 isolated power supplies for the igbt gates. Just needs a pin pulled low to fire it up. Externally it needs one +5v and one +15v supply. Will publish details once i have it all worked out. Plan is to design a small adapter pcb to connect it to my version of Johannes's inverter control board.


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## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

How about just redesigning the whole board, since the stm32 sticks into that and the sensor interface is integrated into the driverboard too, or what are the connectors on the left side?

I would try keeping the board interconnects low, for EMC and just bad connections.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

https://youtu.be/VQzvf70v1JA


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

Hi Jackbauer
Following your developments with interest. Im using the same unit in my conversion. 
I removed the gearbox and managed to rotate the front plate of the motor to line up the motor and gearbox better in my car. In doing so noticed the drive shaft to the gearbox from motor appeared to have some wear possibly due to not being a very tight fit. Used some special Moly grease on it.
I am curious as to how long the gearbox will last, especially in a drag car. Wish it had an alloy housing! 
cheers
Tim


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

For anyone interested I have updated my IGBT gate driver board to use the connector in the Enova inverter. This should allow for direct connection of the gate driver to the same pigtail used in the inverter. Design files and bom attached. I'll have a few spare boards once i get the delivery from Seeedstudio.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

This board I am designing for the open source inverter will be a drop in replacement for the enova driver board. Just plug in the igbts and go.


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

Looks good. Have you built up one with your Enova unit yet? 
I still need to get the boards that I got from you up and running. 
Been looking at these SBE caps for my next inverter. Will make it much more compact.
cheers


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Got a shipment of the new rev driver boards today. Direct connection to the enova igbts using existing wiring harness and plugs. Will have a few sparesfor sale if anyone is interested.


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## wightsparks (Aug 21, 2017)

Sorry to drag up an old thread but I am likely getting one of these motors+controllers. I am new to all of this though I know my way round electrics and basic electronics but nothing like the level in this thread!

2 questions if I may as I don't want to end up with an expensive paperweight!

1) With the addition of the board above (edit - or the board discussed in the homebrew thread) do I end up with system where I can wire in the various parts and make it work with basic sensors and inputs or do I need something else? eg 0-5v on this pin makes it go, 5v on this one is fwd, rpm out on this pin that sort of thing.

2) the motor is rated at max V of 208V RMS does anyone know the Min V or even typical input V for the controller as I would like to run it on a lower voltage - 

Thanks all


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

Hi
I guess you intend to use the Johannes Heubner kit?
I would read this to see what you think:
http://johanneshuebner.com/quickcms/index.html?en_motor-inverter,8.html
To use the Enova control board etc.. would take more work. We have worked out most I/Os, but I for one have not tried to power up. 
You can run at a lower voltage, I tested mine the other week at 50Vdc. Current limit for motor should remain, which i think is 300A, and with lower voltage you just have less power.
Before you buy, check the gearbox bearings and that the motor drive splines are not too worn, as I have one with worn splines. 
Good luck
Tim


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## wightsparks (Aug 21, 2017)

I was under the impression that Damien has worked out a complete "Combi" board based on the Johannes Heubner kit but as a drop in replacement to the Enova board that would give me a single plug for I/O (as he mentions above)
Unfortunately he is no longer making them for re-sale and though the design is Open Source (which is just awesome!) I have neither the skills nor tools to create a board from the files.

Consequently I managed to avoid wasting a lot of money on what would basically be a doorstop!


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

This is my understanding as well. I suspect the files for the boards are on a link in this thread? Im sure you can get a copy of the files and recommendations for places to get boards made if you ask. I think he knows of places that given a BOM for components will also populate the boards which may help you?


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Sadly I have had to back away from the supply of these for various reasons. The board is fully compatible with the Heubner inverter software etc. I do have about ten bare pcbs which i'm happy to send to anyone at cost price. I think around 25 euros. Any small pcb assembly shop can make them or diy if your handy with a soldering iron. All files are on my github.


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## wightsparks (Aug 21, 2017)

Ah, hey Damien that's good. I miss-understood and thought that you didn't have any boards left. That makes it interesting as I could probably put one together - or send it off for someone else to populate.. 
But now it's back to a toss up between the Enova system and a lighter simpler DC one that I have just started looking at. Though having discovered how much batteries cost I need to spend as little as possible on the other bits!

Will your control board run the Heubner power board (sorry if that's a daft question but only just getting my head round the naming conventions)


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

The combi board has everything. Just plug in the igbt tails.


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## Own Little World (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi Damien,

If you have any boards left I would be happy to pay you the price you mention plus some on top for postage, and some for beer for that matter.

I have bought a complete set from a Smith Edison and I will probably need some help and advice over the next months.

Alec, UK (Lotus Elan +2 project embarkee)


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Ok no problem. I'll be making a video on how to fit the board in the next few weeks. I'll only be able to provide minimum support however due to other projects and life changes.


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## Own Little World (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi Damien,

Thanks for getting back - I would very much appreciate a copy of your board - send me a PM to let me know how I can pay you.

I hope the life changes you mention are not too serious - don't worry, I am not expecting you to hold my hand through the whole process but I am very eager to see how you have gone about using these units. I bought a full set of batteries and BMU from Martin in Sheffield and I hope to get a delivery of all the other bits from Haydn. In fact Martin recommended you as a mine of information when it comes to putting these bits together.

I am just trying to finalise the details of how to cram all 22 cell packs into the Elan, in which case I will be using about as close to the Smith Edison config as possible (although not with the step down gearbox - I will use a switchable Laycock overdrive instead).

As such I assumed that I might be able to simply plug and go for a rough and ready (non-tweakable) set up. Is that your experience? Obviously I won't have any control over power curves and regen profiles etc. but I thought I might be able to at least get up and running?

Anyway, nice to finally make your acquaintance!

Alec


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## *marin* (Feb 2, 2017)

Hi guys,

another little project with the kit from Martin & Haydn here, we're two guys in Bulgaria converting a VW T3 bus.
Electrics wise we're at the bench setup phase trying to work out what is what and the pinout posted in this thread is very helpful indeed.
Our aim for stage one is to get this thing moving somehow i.e. just try to wire the Enova setup as it was on the donor van.
I will be expecting Damien's videos (already watching all your stuff for a while  ).
Also interested in getting one of the PCBs discussed - I think this is the right time to think ahead and fetch one before they're gone. We're going to solder the components by hand.


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## EVElvis (Jun 20, 2009)

Good luck marin
Please post your findings, would be good to see the Enova controls work.
Cheers
Tim


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## Own Little World (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi Marin,

Good to see someone else as perplexed by the connectivity of all of the components. I am very wary indeed to start plugging and playing, given th voltages involved and won't be able to make a real start until I clear out a lot of space in the garage.

I would be very interested indeed to keep in touch so we can swap experiences.

Good luck in any case,

Alec


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## *marin* (Feb 2, 2017)

Hello again everyone!

Some time has passed as it usually happens with this kind of projects 

We had few conceptual changes so far, and few of the project vehicle - we changed 3 VW T3 buses to find one with manageable amount of rust.
Now we believe we've got the right car and we put the batteries, inverter and motor on a bench setup in the garage.
Using the pinout from this thread as reference, seems even from the known pins there might be some differences.
What we can't figure out now is:
- what and where we need to do (apply) to power on the inverter?
- what do the power box pins control?
- how does the gear lever control work - what we need to present to each of the pins or a combination of pins for forward, park, reverse?
- how do we connect charging - we have a single Brusa charger and I am not clear what is the connection scheme - is it going through the Enova ? I have the Brusa manuals and pinouts but can't really understand how it is done in this particular setup.
- we have a accelerator potentiometer with 3 pins, giving 0-5V output - to which pin should this signal go?
- same for the brake potentiometer (we have the Curtis PB-9 we bought with the kit) - where to we plug that one ?
- we have the water pump with CAN control, how is this connected to the Enova and does anyone know if it will still work without CAN communication? i.e. at full speed all the time.

Any help or guidelines at this stage are more than welcome and highly appreciated


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## tom3141 (Jul 2, 2016)

Hi Marin.

As far as I’m aware, there is still nobody who has been able to get one of these running using the original Enova control PCB. 

I have the same kit and spent some time trying to reverse engineer it in order to get it working. I did manage to power up the enova control PCB to some extent but I eventually gave up and got a PCB from Damien instead.

I do have some information that I discovered that may be useful for you. I will try to dig it out when I have some time. I didn’t have any wiring at all with mine so you might be able to get a bit further than I did.

I can answer your question on the water pump - yes, it will run without CAN connected. I believe at full speed.

Hope this is some help

Tom


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## *marin* (Feb 2, 2017)

Hi Tom,

thanks a lot, any input is of great help - I will be expecting your findings when you get the time  
We're still trying to figure this out and make it work as it was on the original van. 
I had ordered one of Damien's boards too as backup plan but it never arrived, not sure what happened (he refunded me ofc).


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## tom3141 (Jul 2, 2016)

I have attached a PDF with the pinout for the main 60 pin connector. It's not complete but it's the combination of what myself and Tim (EVElvis) found out. The words in capitals (ETXD1, ACCLA, etc) were printed on the circuit board and were found by tracing the pins back to their connection on the PCB. I have also attached another PDF that Tim sent me containing his notes.

The most useful thing I discovered is probably that pin A3 is the supply for the chips on the control PCB. This pin needs 12V in order to power up the control PCB.

If I remember correctly, you also need 12V on the large stud on the outside of the inverter (and obviously the ground stud connected to negative).

There is also an interlock system so that the inverter won't run if any of the connectors are unplugged. The interlock pins on each connector need connecting together in order for it to run.

I got to the stage where I had power to all the chips on the PCB but I couldn't talk to it via software and wasn't sure how to progress any further. I then got Damien's PCB so decided to give up and use that.

Hope this helps,

Tom


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

If its any help I found a pack of 10 bare board during a recent clearout so have these to sell if anyone is interested.


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## *marin* (Feb 2, 2017)

Hi Tom,

thanks a lot! I have looked through your notes and diagrams and this is way more than I knew  We will be giving it a go shortly with few friends, see if we can make it run (or burn)...

Hi Damien,

This would be me, again, willing to buy one board! Not that I am set for defeat but having options is always good  If you keep our previous correspondence the address is the same, just please post it Registered. If not - I will send again on PM.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

You can purchase through my website. Only use registered post now. Lesson learned
http://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/miscellaneous-bare-pcbs


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## Own Little World (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi Tom,

Great notes and diagram. Thanks for posting those up!

Hi Marin,

I promised I would get back as soon as soon as I had had a closer look at my gear but unfortunately I have had other pressing things to deal with so sorry for the silence.

Do you have the original loom with the kit? I think one of the first things I will do will be to carefully dismantle the wiring loom and take careful notes, with a view to rebuilding it to fit my project. If this results in any useful notes I will post them up.

Also, I am preparing an order for the bill of materials for Damien's board and many of the components need to be bought in bulk. If you have not already bought the parts and are interested I would be happy to send you parts that I have spares of. That may help o keep both of our costs down. Let me know if that is useful.

You mentioned a brake potentiometer - I wasn't aware that the Pot that came with the original kit was a brake pot and assumed it was the throttle pot. I also assumed (probably naively) that when you took your foot off the gas the controller would sense the back current and automatically configure the charge circuitry to accept the regen current. This is probably wishful thinking, I admit.

On my project I would like to keep the original disk brakes and augment them with regen to deal with the extra weight of the converted car so this may be the reason for wishful thinking. An additional brake pot would complicate things so I would appreciate any advice on that.

Did you buy the BMS as well? Are you using all 22 battery packs?

Hopefully speak soon,

Alec


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## *marin* (Feb 2, 2017)

Hi Alec,

Good to hear from you!

Yes, we got the entire loom (minus the ford van part).
What we managed to do is identify which connector goes where so we can assemble the whole thing to the possible extent. We didn't split up the cables to track individual pins connected etc. I was somehow hoping we will avoid that part but as you say... might turn necessary.

the board BOM - I didn't order anything yet, was just considering how to go about it as there were some elements not available at either store etc. I would be interested and actually very appreciative if you add the necessary components for another board (mine) in your order - not only the ones part of packs.
I can give you postal address in UK (a forwarding company I use often) and I can pay over paypal or bank, not a problem. 

The brake pot - yes, it is attached to the brake pedal and works in the start of its movement before physical brakes engage, as I understood it. The gas pedal thing is new-Leaf territory I guess 
I think there is regen setting in the controller when you're off the gas pedal, and you add to it by pressing the brake pedal (moving the potentiometer) before you engage brakes.

I am not sure what the issue is with using a pot in your setup - physical space or ? It is attached with some linkage so maybe placement is somewhat flexible. The pot seems to give 0-5k ohm impedance.
If you're going for Damien's board - the factory setup of the Enova is irrelevant anyway. We did consider at earlier stages some gas pedals for drive by wire (from a 2004+ Subaru) giving 0-5V, and for our gas potentiometer we will use a Subaru TPS (0-5V). 
I don't know how one controls/configures the regen on Huebner's invertor in details, but on the website it says the analog input is 0-3.3V:


> Regen pot input, 0-3.3V (Pin 8).
> Cutoff frequency 16Hz, input resistance 10k.


BMS - yes, we got it. Actually we have a floating arrangement to get a tool to get into the BMS and fiddle with it. Let's see if/when this happens.

Batteries - yes, we got the full pack , two boxes full of batteries  We will use them all as they were on the Ford van. 

Cheers,

Marin


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## Own Little World (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi Marin,

I did the same as you - I reverse engineered the loom as best as I could by looking at the various connectors on the controller, battery packs and motor. Fortunately the connectors are all different types so you can get an idea what is going on without pulling it apart (yet).

I am using 22 battery modules too which should allow me to use the BMS as Valence do not want to help people who do not spend 50 grand on brand new batteries. Finding a place to put all 22 on my project will be difficult and I will have to split them between the front and back of the car. I got an extra pair of cutoff switches for that reason so I can totally isolate each block of batteries.

There is no real issue for me connecting up a brake pot, except the extra complexity. I can probably hack up my pedal box and mount a pot where the clutch cylinder was but it is just yet more engineering to do that I would have rather avoided. It seems silly now that I expected the controller to automatically manage the regen without being told to.

So then - the Curtis pot was for the brake - what did they use for a throttle pot?

I will price up the order in Excel and send you the spreadsheet. You can then tell me if it works out cheaper then you could get at your end. In fact, if anyone else on the forum board is interested we can see if we can bring the price down a little bit more. I can find all the parts, except for the Murata ceramic capacitors but there are Vishay and Kemet alternatives of exactly the same spec.

It is a good thing I bumped into you here because it might encourage me to give more priority to this project. Without it it might have taken me a very long time to finish.

Speak soon.

Alec


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## *marin* (Feb 2, 2017)

Hi Alec, everyone,

sorry for the slow response, got carried away. Speaking of carrying - we had to move the battery pack YET another time and this is getting so annoying and exhausting now that I am also very motivated to finish the project already 

The acceleration potentiometer - Martin (who sold the batteries and also had a complete running electric van for reference) told me anything giving 0 to 5 V is good, where 5V is full throttle. Which is a good part of the TPS sensors out there I guess.

Looking forward to the group purchase of the components.

Cheers,


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## Own Little World (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi Marin,

Sorry about the delay. I have priced up the BOM for a group buy as follows:

1 person £99.81 each
2 people £78.20 each
3 people £71.41 each

There is another forum member (Vanner_Chris) who I think may also be interested and I have PM'd him to let him know.

PM me you email address and we can discuss (I will send you the BOM spreadsheet)

Alec


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## David Arthur (Sep 25, 2017)

Hi everybody I wish I could contribute just a few lines regarding the electronics ect on the Enova, but I cant, I have read all that has been said, but sadly absorbed very little, very much out of my depth, BUT I do have a running van I use each day, and as regards the throttle pot, if you take your foot off completely it goes into regen automatically, and it (seems to me ) to be proportional ie going fast ie say 50 mph then fully off the gas green load monitor shows lots of regen, 10 mph same thing but far less braking and regen. After reading your posts ive tried covering brakes ie just kiss pedal this does not seem to have any effect. If anybody needs any info or if it would help looking over my van fine. One question I would ask is, can I isolate the battery charger isolator override, easily? basically the van is fine most of the time and gets approx. 60miles per charge, but crap if you actually want to go any distance, I had decided to sell but if I can bypass the above, and fit a 8kw generator up front, it will fit with a bit of juggling I can then have a brilliant van. I am using approx. 600wh per mile so could get extra 10 miles per hour run, so easy 100 plus miles a day, and no charge point issues and the waste heat from engine will really be useful over the winter months, till June ? for me well worth paying hybrid tax


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## *marin* (Feb 2, 2017)

Hi guys!

Alec - I have sent you a PM, hope you have received it.

David - thanks for reaching out, it is definitely useful to have someone with a working van willing to share information!
1st thing would be to try and get a shot (photo) of what is connected to each of the pedals (acc and brake) - where and what potentiometers... 
Also the plugs/wiring markings for the accelerator and brake pedals are of interest.
What I know and have shared is what I was told by the sellers, and I have understood - so couple of opportunities to make a mistake in the chain.
What is the gross weight of your van, 600wh/km is quite scary number...
Also - what is your tire size and top speed? And what is acceleration like?
I am also planning to use direct drive with the reduction unit from this bus and no gearbox.


On your question how to convert the van to series hybrid, there are indeed contactors in the master battery pack that separate the batteries from the charger(s) and you can probably hook to them and open them at any time. I don't know what protection there is to not be able to drive while charging (i.e. charge and discharge simultaneously), and how this whole stuff would work. Someone knowing what they do must help out here (and there are many such people in this forum!) 
There could be another approach also to consume the generated electricity by the motor directly without going through the battery pack and only charging with the excess. Again the realisation is beyond my understanding.
Out of curiosity what generator are you looking at?
How is your van heated, are you using resistive heater, heat pump, or fossil fuel burning heater?
Have you considered some solar (effect would be few kms at most per day but still...).
Asking all of these things as my project bus is still not moving (on its own) and the time to consider one or another approach in either direction is not over for me


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## Own Little World (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi David, Hi Marin,

Thanks for all that info. It is interesting to hear that there is automatic regen when you take your foot off the gas. Personally, I would like that feature in my project as extra safety, in that as soon as you take your foot off the gas you are already on the brakes.

I am interested in the fact that the deceleration you feel seems to be proportional to the speed before removing the motor current. I wonder if that is something that was settable in the Enova or whether that is a natural battery behaviour? I.e. higher internal resistance the greater the back current? Hopefully a local battery expert could help us out there.

It is fantastic that you have a vehickle up and running David - I think you may end up being a very valuable resource for us all. You might earn yourself a few beers over the next while,

I am thinking of a flexible PV panel for my car roof to trickle charge the 12V system. I doubt it would result in much less demand on the DC/DC converter but it might make me feel better about having the radio on!

Marin, are you sure you will need the stepdown gear for your camper? I thought it would only have been needed in the fully hybrid vans with the refrigeration units etc. I heard those vans were very heavy. I haven't seen power/torque curves for the Hyundai motor but it looks quite long-legged. I can't imaging it lacks in torque.

Hmmm.

I will check your PM now.

Speak soon all.


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## David Arthur (Sep 25, 2017)

Hi Everybody
I got some pics and info as requested. The van is 3500kg and a long wheel base and high roof top version. top speed 60mph 215 x 75 x 16" wheels, acceleration is not very good but you wont hold up any traffic. The heater as standard is a heating coil in a small tank under bonnet (its one of the pics)which then circulates through the std heater matrix . I bought the vehicle Oct 17 2017 and haven't turned the heater on yet, its bloody awful, as ive recorded a rough log to get accurate watts per mile, and heater would screw this up, but you must have some screen clearing/ heating in winter for safety, and a few hot water bottles on dash, are a bit poo but got me through this time but totally impractical. The main inverter cooling is directed through again the std rad via an electric water pump through the needle has never left its start position ( and its not faulty) and if it stays that way after a long run in summer I will re plumb it into the cabin heater matrix, I know its the wrong way round, but for 3 weeks of the year, but it will allow me to remove the big rad ect to possibly make way for generator looking at 8kw Hyundai petrol, stripped down it should fit As I said before it has averaged 600wh per mile NOT kilometre so a bit better but remember I also have an electric power steering pump motor ( another pic) cant see kw rating but must be min 2hp from frame size, running all the time, so their is an immediate big saving for you. I really like the idea of solar panels on roof easily fit 1kw plus, but they don't work as well on the flat, as on an angle, but may get 10 miles a day for a few (days ) of the year but say 15 miles a week 800 miles a year. Trouble with this idea is the cost of the panels, the normal glass ones are £900 per kw and I think would not be suitable, and the flexible type cost double which is a shame as I really love the idea, plus you still have to factor in an inverter ect ect. Some of pics are obvious but if you get stuck I will label where located, just let me know if you need anything else yours Dave. yours Dave


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## motorulf (Nov 16, 2016)

Hello from Sweden! 

I am also very interested in buying BOM-kits with you guys.
This is for Dameins Combi PCB right?

I have 2 Enova Panthers, so i want to buy 2 component kits.


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## batevv (Feb 2, 2017)

David Arthur said:


> Hi Everybody
> I got some pics and info as requested. The van is 3500kg and a long wheel base and high roof top version. top speed 60mph 215 x 75 x 16" wheels, acceleration is not very good but you wont hold up any traffic. The heater as standard is a heating coil in a small tank under bonnet (its one of the pics)which then circulates through the std heater matrix . I bought the vehicle Oct 17 2017 and haven't turned the heater on yet, its bloody awful, as ive recorded a rough log to get accurate watts per mile, and heater would screw this up, but you must have some screen clearing/ heating in winter for safety, and a few hot water bottles on dash, are a bit poo but got me through this time but totally impractical. The main inverter cooling is directed through again the std rad via an electric water pump through the needle has never left its start position ( and its not faulty) and if it stays that way after a long run in summer I will re plumb it into the cabin heater matrix, I know its the wrong way round, but for 3 weeks of the year, but it will allow me to remove the big rad ect to possibly make way for generator looking at 8kw Hyundai petrol, stripped down it should fit As I said before it has averaged 600wh per mile NOT kilometre so a bit better but remember I also have an electric power steering pump motor ( another pic) cant see kw rating but must be min 2hp from frame size, running all the time, so their is an immediate big saving for you. I really like the idea of solar panels on roof easily fit 1kw plus, but they don't work as well on the flat, as on an angle, but may get 10 miles a day for a few (days ) of the year but say 15 miles a week 800 miles a year. Trouble with this idea is the cost of the panels, the normal glass ones are £900 per kw and I think would not be suitable, and the flexible type cost double which is a shame as I really love the idea, plus you still have to factor in an inverter ect ect. Some of pics are obvious but if you get stuck I will label where located, just let me know if you need anything else yours Dave. yours Dave


Hi Dave,
As far as I can see from the pictures that you provided, your van is quite different from the donor van of our equipment. Our donor was with chassis and refrigerated compartment which I guess will result in 
fundamental differences in the battery pack configuatrion
Is it possible for you to make a picture of the electric motor and controller/invertor as well?
Sorry if I missed it somewhere above but is the battery pack split in two boxes? from what I see in the picture it looks like it's only in one box ?
I have made an amateur diagram of the battery packs which we have and I started to "ring" the pins from the wiring harness which are minimum require to run the invertor.
I will try to make a proper documentation of everything which I find and post it here.
Best regards,
Vasil Batev,


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## motorulf (Nov 16, 2016)

By the way, today i sat down and looked at the DC/DC converter.
I have not read that anyone is using it or how to connect to it.
With the help of a continuity tester, datasheetcatalog and a magnifying glass.
I think i know how to make it do some work now.
I am attaching 2 images explaining my findings.

I have NOT tried to connect and use it yet, but i will as soon i get the time.
There might be some errors here (most probably), use at your own risk.
Wait and see if i blow mine up first 

The big connector includes 12V from led battery going to the controller board, the smaller connector (which is not connected in my inverter) includes instead a voltage reference that i believe is 0-5V.

image1
image2


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## tom3141 (Jul 2, 2016)

I have also looked into the DC/DC converter but have been unable to test it properly without a high voltage DC supply. I think the info in you image is correct apart from I'm pretty sure the purple wires are 5V not 15V. If I remember correctly they are connected to the VCC pin of all the chips on the control board.

I will be very interested to know if you get it working.


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## motorulf (Nov 16, 2016)

OK, the DC/DC works 

I connected it as described in the above image 1.
I had 12.7V on the led battery.
When i connected DC/DC-enable to ground i got 13.8V on the led battery.

I double checked and the purple wire has 0 ohms between it and the +15V place on the IGBT board.
So i used 15V on the purple wires. nothing blew up 

But i burned up a precharge resistor while charging up the capacitor bank.
So i connected the wires directly to the DC/DC instead.


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## motorulf (Nov 16, 2016)

Does anybody here have the Enova PDS32 software?
I have sent an email to Paul Schilling about it a long time ago, but never got a reply.


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## tom3141 (Jul 2, 2016)

Great news! I just hope I haven't fried mine when I was playing around trying to get it to work . I'll give it another go - I wasn't connecting the enable pin to ground...

I have the PDS32 software. I will PM you the link.

Tom


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## motorulf (Nov 16, 2016)

Thanks to Tom i now have communication with the Panther.

Or... Maybe more like a monologue. It is saying the same thing over and over.
Screenshot attached.
The only thing happening is "Error Frame" counting up.
And the "Software" and "Constants" gets filled in, also the "Software Rev" under those 2.
I managed to save my constants from the inverter to the computer though.
But that is all that works.

So I have some sort of fault, but have no idea which.
This fault is serious enough for it to not want to send the rest of the data that is supposed to fill the rest of the info boxes.
I have not tried to connect to the "gear selector pins" and put it in different states. 

All the fault indicator light outputs are pulsing the same pattern:
long, long, short+short, long, long+short
The PDS32 manual pdf says that on page 6 i can read more about blinking fault lights. I can´t find any information about it anywhere.

I also hooked up my PCAN-USB on it at 500kbits, got no CAN frames at all from it. Maybe i could try 250 also...

What more can i test?


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## tom3141 (Jul 2, 2016)

That is exactly the result I got. Error frames counting up and no other info other than the firmware revision number. My inverter didn’t come with the LEDs or any of the rest of the loom so there was nothing I could really do with it. I wasn’t sure if I was connecting something wrong or if it was a software/communications issue. I decided to go with Damien’s PCB when I got to the point you are at now so I’m afraid I can’t help any more than that.


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## Own Little World (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi Motorulf,

I will work out the price for two more boards - you already have the boards don't you?

Anyone else before I order? I want to order on Sunday night so please shout up if you are interested.

Alec

By the way Motorulf, Tom - good news about the DC/DC converter!


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## motorulf (Nov 16, 2016)

I have this board (soon).

So i think i need an other component set than you.
Don´t include me in a group buy as i have already ordered what i need.

Thank you anyway


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## martinwinlow (Sep 22, 2009)

The attached may be of some use - but these relate to the Sainsburys version of the Panther/Transit drivetrain as converted by Smiths Electric Vehicles...

I also know someone who got the PDS software working with his Sainsburys Transit but I have yet to succeed with mine (now with dropside flatbed and tail-lift). It was a question of finding the right version of the PDS software if I remember correctly... He has been unwell recently so I'm trying to not pester him. However, my Transit has developed an 'overheating' fault which puts the Panther/motor into some sort of limp mode. As soon as the Panther is 'started' on the ignition and the system goes live, the temperature gauge goes straight to hot and the radiator fans start up. The yellow temperature warning light (in the instrument cluster) flashes, too. If anyone has any ideas how to fix this I'm all ears.


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## David Arthur (Sep 25, 2017)

martinwinlow said:


> The attached may be of some use - but these relate to the Sainsburys version of the Panther/Transit drivetrain as converted by Smiths Electric Vehicles...
> 
> I also know someone who got the PDS software working with his Sainsburys Transit but I have yet to succeed with mine (now with dropside flatbed and tail-lift). It was a question of finding the right version of the PDS software if I remember correctly... He has been unwell recently so I'm trying to not pester him. However, my Transit has developed an 'overheating' fault which puts the Panther/motor into some sort of limp mode. As soon as the Panther is 'started' on the ignition and the system goes live, the temperature gauge goes straight to hot and the radiator fans start up. The yellow temperature warning light (in the instrument cluster) flashes, too. If anyone has any ideas how to fix this I'm all ears.


 Hi Martin Hi everybody, you seem to know a lot more than me what's underneath the bonnet on these vehicles, but as far as the over temp issue, if it trips out immediately on start up or goes into limp mode, ( from as you say cold) its I would assume, the sensor, I am only pointing out the obvious, as I know absolutely nothing on the electronics side, but I then also assume, the sensor is buried somewhere on the motor, hopefully a separate screw in unit on the outer casing, if its a normally closed contact 2 wire, disconnecting should then get you going, and just keep your eye on temp manually till you can source a replacement, and if its normally closed shorting out the feed wires, should do the trick, BUT it may want to just see a variable resistance, and shorting out possibly means SCRAP . Apart from a few mad hot days this year the temp on my van never even gets half way, I had intended to just route the cooling through the demister matrix fan, as sufficient for my needs, but possibly a 40mile run and I would come very unstuck, but if I try it I will let you all know, and it will also free up a bit of space, and a few pounds, this mite improve my mileage by 5 yards per charge. Good luck, and keep us posted. yours Dave


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## martinwinlow (Sep 22, 2009)

Hi David,

I finally managed to get the PDS (Panther DIagnostic Software) working with my Transit and it showed the motor temperature as 132.9C! Clearly a sensor issue. I have swapped the sensor with one from a spare motor and it is now reporting correctly and the van appears to be out of limp mode.

However (!), there is now a 'Battery Fault' warning light showing, so I'll have to try again with the PDS and see what is going on.

Regards, Martin.


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## martinwinlow (Sep 22, 2009)

OK, an update....

Battery fault appears to be due to the fact that the van was still connected to the mains (but only by one phase which does not charge the main pack, only the 12V auxiliary batteries via a small dedicated charger).

I am still trying to figure out how to get the van to charge on only one phase, ie from a standard 13A socket (ideally) but a 16A one would do... So far I have discovered that the mains power is supplied from a wiring box in the cab to each charger (L, N & E) via a 3 core 2.5mm2 flex. More digging needed in the wiring box to see how the mains flows - it appears at least 2 of the 4 x 16A (Brusa NLG513) chargers on board are connected to one phase...

So, I took the van out for a run with the PDS software working and note that the inverter is only pulling about 42kW max with the accelerator flat to the floor from about 30mph and up. At slower speeds, the kW is limited on a sliding scale down to about 15-20kW min at pull-away on level ground again with accelerator flat to the floor.

I don't see why this is happening (given that inverter and motor are supposedly 90kW-capable) and I am wondering if I can't re-jig the inverter parameters to allow more power for better slow-speed acceleration.

Also, at 35mph the motor is doing about 4800rpm leaving the door open for a modified rear diff to get better pulling power without messing around with the inverter settings. And on that note...

Lastly, I jacked one back wheel up and counted the prop shaft rotation rate compared to the one wheel's and found that for every 9 rotations of the wheel I got 23 rotations of the prop shaft. If someone can advise what this means the rear diff ratio is, I would be grateful.

Regards, MW.


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## Emyr (Oct 27, 2016)

martinwinlow said:


> Also, at 35mph the motor is doing about 4800rpm leaving the door open for a modified rear diff to get better pulling power without messing around with the inverter settings. And on that note...
> 
> Lastly, I jacked one back wheel up and counted the prop shaft rotation rate compared to the one wheel's and found that for every 9 rotations of the wheel I got 23 rotations of the prop shaft. If someone can advise what this means the rear diff ratio is, I would be grateful.
> 
> Regards, MW.


one wheel 9 turns, other wheel 0 turns => average 4.5

23:4.5 = 5.11:1

that seems quite revvy for an ICE diff, and doesn't give you many off-the-shelf diff options to trade off lower speed against higher wheel torque. Reducing the wheel diameter could work if you're not limited by the brake size.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Emyr said:


> one wheel 9 turns, other wheel 0 turns => average 4.5
> 
> 23:4.5 = 5.11:1
> 
> that seems quite revvy for an ICE diff, and doesn't give you many off-the-shelf diff options to trade off lower speed against higher wheel torque. Reducing the wheel diameter could work if you're not limited by the brake size.


That's likely not the differential ratio as jacking 1 wheel up is using the differential ratio also. You need to jack both wheels so they turn at the same rate then could prop shaft revolutions.


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## martinwinlow (Sep 22, 2009)

Thanks for the replies - I initially tried doing it with both wheels off the ground and the prop shaft did not appear to rotate consistently (limited slip diff?). 

In fact, after some googling, it turns out that the highest standard Transit diff has a 5.11:1 ratio and so that is clearly what I have. Unfortunately tho, that means I have no-where to go with a simple change-out of crown and pinion gears to get better acceleration. Bugger.

Smaller wheels appears to be the only simple option... unless I can figure out how to get the Panther to supply more of its 90kW at slow speed.


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## paaa (Aug 20, 2019)

Does anyone have a copy of the PDS software? Have two smith edisons, and one has an unknown error appearing.


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## Windydrew (Dec 18, 2015)

I just purchased a Smith Newton with an Enova 120kW drive system. It seems there are multiple issues and I'd also like to get the PDS software. It has the 80kWh pack. Thanks in advance.


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## Windydrew (Dec 18, 2015)

Here's the motor.


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## martinwinlow (Sep 22, 2009)

PM me please. MW


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## vjkomix (Oct 13, 2017)

hello i,m looking for update my Enova 90KW inverter original board to Damien pcb, but i cant find anywhere CPL file (BOM file i have it) CPL file need for smd elementsa put correct on board(for smd machine) is anyone have it? or maybe i can buy fully assembled board ready to go?


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## martinwinlow (Sep 22, 2009)

Anyone here still working with these Enova Panther inverters?


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