# [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Most likely you need to work on the brakes themselves. You may need to bleed the brakes and/or adjust the reAr drums.


Eduardo Kaftanski
[email protected]

-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Mohlere" <[email protected]>
To: "EVDL" <[email protected]>
Sent: 1/7/08 13:13
Subject: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment

I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
only problem is that I cannot, for the life of me, determine how to adjust
the brake pedal free play - as it is, I have to mash it pretty much to the
floor to get the truck to stop - the only adjustment I could see in the
whole setup was a bolt on the end of the rod on the vacuum booster that
pushes on the master cylinder - however, adjusting that requires separating
the master cyl from the booster, which cannot be done while "adjusting" the
brake pedal.

Anyone have any ideas??

Thx,

-- 
Michael Mohlere
My EV: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/296.html
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I agree. Don't cut corners and if you don't know what you are doing 
with the brakes either learn correctly or let the shop do the work. 
Better safe than sorry.

: )





> Eduardo Kaftanski wrote:
> 
> > Most likely you need to work on the brakes themselves. You may need
> > to bleed the brakes and/or adjust the reAr drums.
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

You should have access to that rod from inside the car at the brake 
pedal. May need to remove part of the assembly to gain access but you 
should have reasonable access to it. Easy access is required for 
proper adjustment. Do you have your VW book? If not go get one. You 
will be glad you did.

: )




> Michael Mohlere wrote:
> 
> > I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
> > cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hello Michael,

Go to a auto parts store and pick up a Brake Bleeding Kit. I use the 
Mityvac Part No. 6820. It is a small hand pump that can apply a vacuum or 
apply a pressure. Also pick up about two quarts of brake fluid that is 
design for your vehicle.

It is normal when you remove the master cylinders and lines and replace it 
and add brake fluid, you will get air in the lines between the brakes and 
the master cylinder. The indication of air is that your brake peddle is 
going to the floor with a new master cylinder.

In a old or existing master cylinder when you brake peddle travels too much, 
is that the master cylinder piston is worn out and it allows the brake fluid 
to by pass the piston.

You will note when using a brake bleeding kit, it is a hand pump that can 
provide a vacuum. At each brake, there is a bleeder plug that looks like a 
grease zirk that is behind the brake where the brake lines go in.

Take the hose from the brake bleeding kit and push it on the bleeder plug 
and connect it to the hand pump. Attach the bottle to the pump which is use 
for catching the drain brake fluid.

Remove the brake fluid fill cover on the master cylinder and make sure you 
have brake fluid all the way up to the top.

Next, You can start pumping the old brake fluid out about one bottle fill at 
a time. If you are working alone, than go back to the master cylinder and 
keep adding brake fluid and then continue to pump.

In the bleeding kit clear line, you will see brake fluid and then you may 
see air, keep adding fluid and pump out the brake fluid until there is no 
indication of air in the lines.

Now now tighten up the brake bleed plug with the hose and some brake fluid 
in the clear line, so you do not suck air back into the lines.

Then go to the next wheel and do it again. Some times you may have to pump 
the brakes so as to work a equalization value if your vehicle has one. If 
your brake peddle seems to be too soft when its power up, then you may have 
to bleed the brakes a second time.

I normally have to do this, because by rear brakes lines are tie together 
and the brake fluid will cross feed each other.

You can also use this brake bleeding hand pump in checking your vacuum 
system. With other fittings supplied with this kit, you can plug right into 
the brake booster and apply vacuum without running your vacuum pump. You 
can check out your other vacuum lines for leaking or test out vacuum control 
units.

Roland








>


> Michael Mohlere wrote:
> >
> > > I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
> > > cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I have a friend who lost his auto repair business because he tried to help a 
customer who was poor and wanted to fix his own brakes. My friend gave him 
some advice and you know the rest. The guy botched the job, wrecked his 
car, and sued my friend and won. If you don't know precisely what you are 
doing on fixing your own brakes, take it to a good brake shop.



On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 10:38:20 -0700, Roland Wiench wrote
> Hello Michael,
> 
> Go to a auto parts store and pick up a Brake Bleeding Kit. I use 
> the Mityvac Part No. 6820. It is a small hand pump that can apply a 
> vacuum or apply a pressure. Also pick up about two quarts of brake 
> fluid that is design for your vehicle.
> 
> It is normal when you remove the master cylinders and lines and 
> replace it and add brake fluid, you will get air in the lines 
> between the brakes and the master cylinder. The indication of air 
> is that your brake peddle is going to the floor with a new master cylinder.
> 
> In a old or existing master cylinder when you brake peddle travels 
> too much, is that the master cylinder piston is worn out and it 
> allows the brake fluid to by pass the piston.
> 
> You will note when using a brake bleeding kit, it is a hand pump 
> that can provide a vacuum. At each brake, there is a bleeder plug 
> that looks like a grease zirk that is behind the brake where the 
> brake lines go in.
> 
> Take the hose from the brake bleeding kit and push it on the bleeder 
> plug and connect it to the hand pump. Attach the bottle to the pump 
> which is use for catching the drain brake fluid.
> 
> Remove the brake fluid fill cover on the master cylinder and make 
> sure you have brake fluid all the way up to the top.
> 
> Next, You can start pumping the old brake fluid out about one bottle 
> fill at a time. If you are working alone, than go back to the 
> master cylinder and keep adding brake fluid and then continue to pump.
> 
> In the bleeding kit clear line, you will see brake fluid and then 
> you may see air, keep adding fluid and pump out the brake fluid 
> until there is no indication of air in the lines.
> 
> Now now tighten up the brake bleed plug with the hose and some brake 
> fluid in the clear line, so you do not suck air back into the lines.
> 
> Then go to the next wheel and do it again. Some times you may have 
> to pump the brakes so as to work a equalization value if your 
> vehicle has one. If your brake peddle seems to be too soft when its 
> power up, then you may have to bleed the brakes a second time.
> 
> I normally have to do this, because by rear brakes lines are tie 
> together and the brake fluid will cross feed each other.
> 
> You can also use this brake bleeding hand pump in checking your 
> vacuum system. With other fittings supplied with this kit, you can 
> plug right into the brake booster and apply vacuum without running 
> your vacuum pump. You can check out your other vacuum lines for 
> leaking or test out vacuum control units.
> 
> Roland
> 
> >


> Michael Mohlere wrote:
> > >
> > > > I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
> > > > cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
> ...


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