# 1000A controllers available



## gv2ev (Jan 27, 2009)

gentlemen,
we are currently taking orders for dc controllers up to 1000a,
special orders for over 1000a(water cooled) . 
available voltage range 72v - 240v 500a $1450.
800a $1900.
1000a $2750. igbt 2 year warranty 

thank you,
 joshua gv2ev.com
(845)594-4862


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: Do you really need 1000A?*



gv2ev said:


> gentlemen,
> we are currently taking orders for dc controllers up to 1000a,
> special orders for over 1000a(water cooled) .
> available voltage range 72v - 240v 500a $1450.
> ...


Not bad. Are there any examples of cars that are already converted that you can show?


----------



## Technologic (Jul 20, 2008)

*Re: Do you really need 1000A?*



gv2ev said:


> gentlemen,
> we are currently taking orders for dc controllers up to 1000a,
> special orders for over 1000a(water cooled) .
> available voltage range 72v - 240v 500a $1450.
> ...


pass....


----------



## dogstar74 (Dec 6, 2008)

*Re: Do you really need 1000A?*



david85 said:


> Are there any examples of cars that are already converted that you can show?


YES!
YES!

In God We Trust! All others must show data.

Sounds right up everyone's alley. 

But gv2ev, 

Perhaps it would be more considerate to start your own thread on this one. You could name it "Hey, I already have a 1000A controller" or something like that. You know it would be more polite than jumping into another kid's game.

Just my .02
Aaron


----------



## Evan (Feb 20, 2008)

*Re: Do you really need 1000A?*

Technologic - We are in a rare moment of agreement. What they heck do you need that much current for? Are there that many people looking to convert and drag race busses?

dogstar74 - Actually I have been trying to get data from god for years. No luck so far.


----------



## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

Looks like you are reselling ElectroCraft controllers (picture on your site is of that controller), we already have a thread about those, and we have direct quotes from Darius, so what's new?

Why don't you come out and say it in the open? Nothing wrong with being a reseller unless you trying to hide it


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

http://gv2ev.com/images/controller.gif








http://pages.interlog.com/~dgv/images/DSC02917.gif








Same.


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

If you had asked Darius, he would have sent you a pic of his newer model. That's pretty healthy markup. I bought my 800 amp for $1399. His 1000 amp is 1599 Cdn. 
Oh, the most recent 500 amp unit looks like this. The 800 will have the power board and Al "U" channel inverted.

Gary


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I thought I read that he quotes his prices in US dollars since that's how he buys his parts?


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> I thought I read that he quotes his prices in US dollars since that's how he buys his parts?


I think I read that somewhere too. I can only tell you what he told me. I can copy the bank draft if any one wants to see it.... I probably shouldn't be quoting someone elses prices anyways. I think Darius' std warranty is 1 year though...so, this re-seller has bumped that up...which is good. None of this stuff is new info re; controller current/voltage options though....


G


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

I got a quote from darius that was in US dollars.....


..........and thanks to the administrator for splitting this off into a seperate thread.


----------



## Technologic (Jul 20, 2008)

*Re: Do you really need 1000A?*



Evan said:


> Technologic - We are in a rare moment of agreement. What they heck do you need that much current for? Are there that many people looking to convert and drag race busses?
> .


Well the price for the 500a controller is only 3 times more than others available readily 

Blech.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

How do you figure the 500 amp controller, which by the way is rated to 240 volts, is 3 times the price of a 500 amp Curtis, rated to 144 volts? Even with the markup he's charging less than $1500 for it, which is about the same as the Curtis.


----------



## Technologic (Jul 20, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> How do you figure the 500 amp controller, which by the way is rated to 240 vlots, is 3 times the price of a 500 amp Curtis, rated to 144 volts? Even with the markup he's charging less than $1500 for it, which is about the same as the Curtis.


I was talking about my build since I won't need above 96v (and even then that should put the top speed at like 90mph)

240 volts is a bit too high to be practical outside of converted F250s or something that weighs 6000lbs.

Cheers.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Tell that to all the people who used Zilla HV's quite successfully, almost none of them in full sized pickups. Higher voltage allows lower amperage and smaller wiring. If the controller supports it, (like the Zilla), then it also allows you to have a higher pack voltage with a lower motor voltage, reducing voltage sag under load. I agree you don't often need 240 volts, but having the headroom allows you to go to 192 or so without maxing out the controller, which is a good thing.


----------



## Technologic (Jul 20, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> Tell that to all the people who used Zilla HV's quite successfully, almost none of them in full sized pickups. Higher voltage allows lower amperage and smaller wiring. If the controller supports it, (like the Zilla), then it also allows you to have a higher pack voltage with a lower motor voltage, reducing voltage sag under load. I agree you don't often need 240 volts, but having the headroom allows you to go to 192 or so without maxing out the controller, which is a good thing.


Successfully using a rated controller many times higher than you need isn't such an amazing thing .

Zilla's never seemed worth the price to me... and though I'm sympathetic to any DIY controller designs, I still can't bring myself to imagine they were worth the additional money.

It's nice for the headroom and to have the ability to step down the current to the motor, but again, it's a novelty, and not functionally important. 

For Lead acid it might work, but if you're buying a $2500 controller I can't imagine you'd be using a $900 battery pack?

Spending the additional money to drop down the car's cd and weight would be of far better use in my opinion.

Or just use the money and build a ground up lightweight car as I intend to. The controller obsession never made much sense to me. I thought the goal was to lower the price of all this stuff?

I think it'd be wiser to pick up a medium level AC controller/motor, build a ground up car that weighs around 1000 lbs, and put in some Lifepos... I think the entire build can be done for about $7000 in parts if you wanted a few hundred miles of range.

Cheers.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Building a ground up specialty vehicle is just not going to happen for 99% of us. That's just a fact. We also have to keep costs down by converting whatever may be available to us at a decent price. A lot of people are going to be using lead acid, and a lot of people would like some decent performance available since the general public perception of EV's is slow over sized golf carts. In many conversions the 500 amp 144 volt Curtis is adequate but not great, and some people are having problems with them and others surviving when hooked up to a Warp11. Having a reliable controller that can unleash the potential of a Warp11 is not unreasonable. The fact that the Zilla's were always sold out with a 6 month waiting time and the high pricing tells you there is a demand for that type of controller. If people were satisfied with the Curtis the Zillas wouldn't have sold as well as they did.


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Technologic said:


> I think it'd be wiser to pick up a medium level AC controller/motor, build a ground up car that weighs around 1000 lbs, and put in some Lifepos... I think the entire build can be done for about $7000 in parts if you wanted a few hundred miles of range.
> 
> Cheers.


 AC controller/motor, LiFePo pack, BMS, charger, and a custom ground up vehicle for $7k?


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

The power question goes hand in hand with the range question. How much you want is rarely how much you really need. When it comes to performance we all want as much as we can possibly get. 

Thats what I'm after....but sometimes you have to compromise.


----------



## Technologic (Jul 20, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> AC controller/motor, LiFePo pack, BMS, charger, and a custom ground up vehicle for $7k?


Yup... I did the math for people already 

I found a lifepo supplier at 0.35/WH
There's a website that sells a controller/motor AC system 84v for $1400, though it's probably not worth it (on my hopefully 300 mile range the pack will only cost $3200)

You could easily do a DC motor + kelly controller (overrated) for cheaper than the AC... regen isn't worth it.

BMS/Charger is $400 together from my battery company I want to use (including overvoltage/undervoltage protection during charging/discharging).

700 lb vehicles cost much less in parts to make than out of steel  Though that doesn't include about 800 hrs of labor I'll need to build the molds and welding rigs.

I've been told that my time isn't valuable till I'm at least 35, no matter how many degrees I have. So I figured I'd test the hypothesis 

Cheers.


----------



## Technologic (Jul 20, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> Building a ground up specialty vehicle is just not going to happen for 99% of us. That's just a fact.


I don't expect it is, but a think a person designing a kit car instead would have far more marketability (especially if they were offering prebuilt kits/painted without motors for like $4000)

A fairly easy price point to meet.

At any rate the controller still seems way above my needs and way above my pricepoint


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Technologic said:


> Yup... I did the math for people already
> 
> I found a lifepo supplier at 0.35/WH


 Last I knew you hadn't confirmed the quality of those cells, so I don't count that, yet.


> There's a website that sells a controller/motor AC system 84v for $1400, though it's probably not worth it


 If it's the 6 inch motor I'm thinking of it's good for a motorcycle, not a car, even a light one, unless you really don't care about acceleration. 


> BMS/Charger is $400 together from my battery company I want to use (including overvoltage/undervoltage protection during charging/discharging).


Again, unless you have new information, we don't have any proof of capability or quality, yet.


----------



## Technologic (Jul 20, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> Again, unless you have new information, we don't have any proof of capability or quality, yet.


Indeed... we'll know once the chinese are finished with new years


----------



## gv2ev (Jan 27, 2009)

so how is it working for you? new to forum and everyone seems to know so much- prices you have are not exactly for the products we sell. the units coming from darius undergo small enhancement here. nobody is saying how thier 1000a or 800a (darius built) controllers perform?
thanks


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

gv2ev said:


> prices you have are not exactly for the products we sell. the units coming from darius undergo small enhancement here.


What are those small enhancements that are worth $500 to us, beyond the extra year warranty?


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

Regarding value/price.... $895 Cdn, for an IGBT based 500 amp (680 amp IGBT capacity) rated for op to 192 volts (250 volt IGBT capacity) is twice as good of a deal as any other controller currently on the market, that I know of. Performance is yet to be proven although some user contacts report very positive.

Seems to be a lot of interest in designing/building a resonably priced controller .... it already exists. Hopefully it will perform as well as I want. I think his units are rated very conservatively. The first 800 amp unit was designed and is currently being built for me. He has not built one of the 1000 amp units yet. He has built hundreds of smaller controllers though.

The "small improvementst" that Darius now offers spawned from discussions on this forum and requested by myself and RMK (Rob). I've met Darius and been to his shop, seen his products first hand. I think he is a pretty stand up guy. I believe that he will back his stuff if there are any issues. 

No one on this site has experience with EVCraft controllers I don't believe. Rob did contact several references though, with positive feedback. They weren't all controller users though. I'm hoping for the best and pretty optimistic. 

Hope that helps....


----------



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

If he's doing all the building himself it won't take much to overload his manufacturing capacity and we'll be right back with the 6 month backlog we had with the Zillas. How long has he been working on your controller?


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> If he's doing all the building himself it won't take much to overload his manufacturing capacity and we'll be right back with the 6 month backlog we had with the Zillas. How long has he been working on your controller?


Perhaps he has some assistance on larger orders of standard products. Mine is the first 800 amp so he had to get a new circuit board designed and built as well as a new Al channel. He ordered some of my components when he received my $. I think he quoted 10-12 weeks due to the new design, but I would have to check my mail. It's been about 4 weeks now and he is ahead of schedule. He already designed the circuit board and had it made. He was building it up last week. He also received the new Al base. He has some testing to do at the end of course and some custom firmware for my application. I think Darius could take a good chunk of market share if he knew more about marketing and perhaps expanding his operation as well as "tuning" his products to what ppl want (and think they want). You may be right though...very possibly true. 

His DC-DC is underpowered to what most ppl want. I think it may be ok... not sure. His Li BMS is way overpriced...but I have a feeling it is well designed and perhaps more advanced than some. Each 12 v pack has a processor. Never checked the details. I think his small charger is very good... but I wish is was dual voltage and higher output. He has a larger one but it is not high freq. (small). Just my spin on it......

G


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

Technologic said:


> It's nice for the headroom and to have the ability to step down the current to the motor, but again, it's a novelty, and not functionally important.
> 
> For Lead acid it might work, but if you're buying a $2500 controller I can't imagine you'd be using a $900 battery pack?


I would like to comment on this point if I may. In my case this makes very good sense.. at least in my little brain.  Here's my logic. I am converting a truck and panned right from the start to use Pb for the first pack. (although this is my third choice for battery chemistry) That said, I like several features of AGM's... I obviously dont like the energy density. I would like to get 35 to 40 miles from a charge which isn't a prob for floodies, but it's a bit of a challenge and large $ for AGM's with enough punch. I also want a battery that is better in the cold weather and low resistance is nice for discharge and peukerts. So..... I find some very good (I hope ) 140 Ah AGM's...12 volt bats. Wonderful, except I can't go far on 12 of these, and 24 (two strings) is 2450 lbs of lead. So, a decent compromise for the first pack is to run 16 of these for 192 volts and run the motor at max 170. I should have great performance, not any heavier than most small trucks... and while I may not hit 45 miles ... I might hit 35 or more. So, my controller is not $2,500 but it does offer what you described and my battery pack will cost $880. 

I think it kinda does make sense for me. What do others think??

Cheers.


----------



## Technologic (Jul 20, 2008)

DIYguy said:


> Regarding value/price.... $895 Cdn, for an IGBT based 500 amp (680 amp IGBT capacity) rated for op to 192 volts (250 volt IGBT capacity) is twice as good of a deal as any other controller currently on the market, that I know of. Performance is yet to be proven although some user contacts report very positive.
> 
> Seems to be a lot of interest in designing/building a resonably priced controller .... it already exists. Hopefully it will perform as well as I want. I think his units are rated very conservatively. The first 800 amp unit was designed and is currently being built for me. He has not built one of the 1000 amp units yet. He has built hundreds of smaller controllers though.


I don't think a $895 CDN price would be too much (right on target IMO), but that's half of what the price offered here is.


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

Technologic said:


> I don't think a $895 CDN price would be too much (right on target IMO), but that's half of what the price offered here is.


yup, right you are....


----------



## ClintK (Apr 27, 2008)

gv2ev said:


> so how is it working for you? new to forum and everyone seems to know so much- prices you have are not exactly for the products we sell. the units coming from darius undergo small enhancement here. nobody is saying how thier 1000a or 800a (darius built) controllers perform?
> thanks


I ordered the 400 Amp controller from Darius about 3 weeks ago - he quoted me 5-6 weeks for delivery. Once I get it in I'll let everyone know how it works out.


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

ClintK said:


> I ordered the 400 Amp controller from Darius about 3 weeks ago - he quoted me 5-6 weeks for delivery. Once I get it in I'll let everyone know how it works out.


Looking fwd to hear how you make out. How long after receipt do you anticipate before being able to test?

Cheers.

Gary


----------



## ClintK (Apr 27, 2008)

DIYguy said:


> Looking fwd to hear how you make out. How long after receipt do you anticipate before being able to test?
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Gary


Long answer...
Well I've got 2 potential goal dates (for various reasons). One is April 1st, the other June 1st. I'll have everything ready for my control box by the time the controller gets in. The box will go together pretty quick. Then all that's left are the batteries, battery mounts, and charger. I don't think there is a minimum voltage on the controller - I can probably use 2 12V's and go for a slow cruise. Maybe 2 weeks after arrival the low speed test? 1-3 months for high speed test?

Short answer...
24V drive 2 weeks (after arrival). 120V drive 3 months.

How bad is it to buy your main pack batteries a couple months apart?


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

ClintK said:


> Long answer...
> Well I've got 2 potential goal dates (for various reasons). One is April 1st, the other June 1st. I'll have everything ready for my control box by the time the controller gets in. The box will go together pretty quick. Then all that's left are the batteries, battery mounts, and charger. I don't think there is a minimum voltage on the controller - I can probably use 2 12V's and go for a slow cruise. Maybe 2 weeks after arrival the low speed test? 1-3 months for high speed test?
> 
> Short answer...
> ...


I C. Thanks. You may want to check with Darius on that min voltage thing. Are you using a breaker? How many contactors and where did you get yours from? Did you post your elec schematics on you blog yet? I'm interested in see what you will do. I saw that you are going to use a pre-charge resistor, good idea I think. Did you consider using the "step start device" from RFengineers?

Thks,
Gary


----------



## ClintK (Apr 27, 2008)

DIYguy said:


> I C. Thanks. You may want to check with Darius on that min voltage thing. Are you using a breaker? How many contactors and where did you get yours from? Did you post your elec schematics on you blog yet? I'm interested in see what you will do. I saw that you are going to use a pre-charge resistor, good idea I think. Did you consider using the "step start device" from RFengineers?
> 
> Thks,
> Gary


I'm using a circuit breaker and fuse. My current design has 2 contactors. One triggered by the key turned to "on" and the other triggered by the foot pedal. The foot pedal contactor has a pre-charge resistor as well. I like the idea that when I lift my foot off the pedal the car can't run away with me (it would blow the precharge resistor). In case that one fails I can still turn the key switch to off to break the second contactor. If that one fails I can still pull the circuit breaker (via a cable). I've attached my (draft) schematic.

I talked to RFengineers about the step start - I'm going to try it without the device for now and see how it works.

Any thoughts / opinions on it?


----------

