# Soliton1 settings for Warp 11HV?



## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

Anyone running a Soliton1 with a Warp 11HV?

Any advice on how I should be setting these values?
1) Maximum Motor Voltage:
2) Maximum Motor Current:
3) Maximum Motor Power:
4) Maximum Motor Speed(RPM):

I don't want to blow the motor up and I figured many people have connected an 11HV to the Soliton1 in the past. Thank you for any help you can provide.

Link to my porsche project: 
http://Kurtsprojects.blogspot.com


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Hi
Other guys will have their opinions, but personally, from what I learn the only dangerous thing is to limit RPM at 5500.

1- 288v should be fine.
2- 1000A should be fine for short period.
3- Well, 288 Kw, but your battery will never produce this power... so who care?

Do you really build a 173v battery pack to coupled with Soliton 1 and Warp 11HV?
You can be disappointed about performance!!

100s (320v) battery pack capable of 1000A is the way to go with this motor and controller combo.


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## drgrieve (Apr 14, 2011)

> 108 cells x 3.2 Volts (3.7Volts during charging) results in a very high voltage, too high for most controllers and motors, so I'm running two parallel strings of 54 cells for a nominal pack voltage of 173V, peak of 200V during charge.


Hmmm I'm assuming that you've changed your plan on this. To match Warp11HV and Soliton1 your should try for 1P100S and charge to 350V (Soliton max). If you bottom balance this would work out quite well as you end up undercharging slightly - which also lengthens the cycle life of the pack. (Note most folks count 80% DOD for max range not 70% - but aim for most drives to be 60% and under).

Perhaps the extra 8 batteries can be made into a accessery pack (pick the smallest AH ones of course).

Not sure what C rate GBH batteries can take. Would be very interested to hear feedback on the voltage sag on the pack at different C rates on these batteries. I haven't seen any published results from EV converters using these cells.

For example Calb 100ah cells at 8C sag from 3.3v to 2.6v or 22% (this is in a connected pack not individual).

So if the GBH were the same and you set 800 as max battery amps you would see a voltage drop from 330v to 260 volts. Thats close to motor nominal so under hard acceleration you will have good power up to high RPMs.

That would be 208kw of battery peak power (assuming GBH matches Calb performance). So will be a quick car!

Would love to see a dyno chart when you get every running and tuned it.

Good luck!


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

Yabert said:


> ...
> 100s (320v) battery pack capable of 1000A is the way to go with this motor and controller combo.


As I warn elsewhere, 100 cells in series is the absolute maximum allowed ONLY if the pack is bottom balanced and charging stops when the first cell hits ~3.5V. Even then one is unreasonably expecting their Soliton to have better than 1% accuracy reading voltage. It should go without saying that our controllers are not lab grade measurement devices! The best long term accuracy for voltage is +/-2% and for the Hall effect current sensor it is +/-3%. I feel this is more than adequate precision for a motor controller. Better than adequate, actually. 970A? 1030A? Who can tell the difference? Both will cook the typical 9" to 11" motor in 15 to 30 seconds.


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## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

Thanks drgrieve,

I am seriously considering moving to 1p100s or 1p96s as Tesseract suggests. I know the GBS cells are rated for 3C continuous, 10C pulsed, but I have no idea how they classify 'pulsed'. I will ask some questions and come back to the list.

Thanks,
-K


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## drgrieve (Apr 14, 2011)

Well it would seem that 100s is a little cheeky and if Tesseract recomends 96s then I would go with that. Better safe and long term reliable than a extra 5%.

Well unless you are drag racing of course 

In regards to pulsed that sounds like < 1 second. In any regards you can test the voltage sag on the bench or even when you are finished.

Find out how many amps for the cell to drop from 3.3v to 2.7v and count that as maximum battery amps for 10 seconds. In a built pack they will sag slightly more due to all the connections so you should test again when built.


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

drgrieve said:


> Well it would seem that 100s is a little cheeky and if Tesseract recomends 96s then I would go with that. Better safe and long term reliable than a extra 5%.


It's more that running a 100s pack with a 350V limit means you have to be very careful with your charging otherwise you are going to experience a lot of "nuisance" high pack voltage faults. Only racers who want to push the limits as far as possible should be running their controllers at the very maximum voltage allowed. For a daily driver, running a pack voltage above 320V actual seems extravagant to me. If you desire higher performance that much then perhaps a Z2K or a Shiva would be a better choice of controller?


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## Kurtdiver (Aug 7, 2011)

EAS Electric Autosports Inc. says "pulsed is 10C for 10 seconds."
ElitePowerSolutions says [FONT=&quot]"Pulsed discharging is normally within 15 seconds."

So they must be quoting rules of thumb. I asked for charge curves for beyond 3C and they could not provide any.

-K
[/FONT]


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## drgrieve (Apr 14, 2011)

10C for a 100amp cell for 10 seconds would be fantastic.

It would be hard I imagine to bench test a variable load up to 1000 amp draw.

But if you can test the voltage sag on a fully charged cell at X (50, 100, whatever) amps and then at 2X amps we can calculate the expected voltage drop at a 1000 amps.


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