# Giant Yukon Hub Motor



## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Battery side frames are 4mm nylon and the 3 black end plates are 10mm nylon. The side frames are pulled together with 4.5mm aly tie rods tapped to m5 and the connector plates are 1.5mm aly cnc.
The battery sits very tight on the frame and have made bolt points for another 72v bat to hang off the back of the seat pole but that might get too heavy


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

To frame the Headways and the LifeTechs for that matter the resin on the negative end has to be machined so its squared off.


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## 80N541 (Jan 11, 2009)

be aware of your legs, that's not good to let the connectors free. An enclosure should protect you


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

80N541 said:


> be aware of your legs, that's not good to let the connectors free. An enclosure should protect you


The whole pack will get a clear plastic sheet wrapped around it.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Out of the 24 Deadhead cells a grand total of 9 cells were defective dropping in voltage very quickly under load.
It will get about 4km out of a charge before the controller cuts out. Then voltage checking each cell individually
shows the good cells are still at 3.2v and the rest are at 2v or even 0.2 volts. One cell actually reversed polarity.
The Hub motor is pretty good and the windings get to 30 degrees C after a few hill climbs.
At full voltage this thing is like a magic carpet ride, its so smooth and quiet and got it up to 60kmh with the crap cells.
The controller is fully programmable through my laptop, I can configure throttle, max amps and regen ect.
To engage regen I pull the front brake lever a bit to trigger the micro switch, this switches on regen to a preset 50% then roll the left
twist grip forward to vary the regen from 50% up to 100%.
100% regen is like a pretty strong brake but wont lock the wheel.
It looks like an VBIED






















































I bored the cooling holes in it


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

AAAAAaahhhh.......thats better
LifeTech.
Just did 18km on these and low and behold, one cell is defective. dropped to 1v when after the 18km the rest were 3.2v.
pretty good top speed too 65kmh on torque mode. Controller has 3 settings torque, normal and rpm so you bet Il be trying rpm for top speed but from standing start its pretty growly and coggy as it is.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

OK Ive finally realised the importance of a BMS.
anyone got any suggestions ?


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

what about these things
DeWalt 36v drill pack BMS ??


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## umurali2000 (May 3, 2010)

Interesting .... it is really useful


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## ev_nred (Sep 23, 2009)

hey,
nice bike!
just a thougth, why not use high c loda rc batterie? 
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/...Product_Name=Turnigy_3000mAh_4S_35C_Lipo_Pack
over 100amp cont (with c load) 14.8 v but price $50 however there cheper ones!


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

had a catastrophic wheel drop out situation while free revving the rear wheel in the air.
as I hit regen to slow it down the wheel came out of its drop outs and spun all the cables around the axle a few times.
Only severed 2 of the light phase wires which I could repair.
Ever since this the system does not operate as it should like phases are missing and individual phase voltage varies, 5, 6, and 8 volts at low throttle.
So I think the controller is stuffed.
Anyway to prevent rear wheel drop out I cnced a few anti torque / anti drop out lugs from 10mm AC ally.


















Added a set of LED head lights 900 lumens each on a cnced bracket










now looking for a ready made BMS battery 
any thoughts on this chinese unit ?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230505927862&_trkparms=tab=Watching


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

The electric Mountain bike project has been scrapped due to it getting too expensive and blowing up too many electronic parts.
Lipo testing has instead commenced on the next most likely victim...the yellow pushy.
Pre empting with a big cooling scoop, Ive clamped together a single string of 18 lipo cells to make 73v which is 3 volts over max for this little 24v motor.
The Lipo's massive 350 amp peak drove the victim straight up my hill in 1st gear without me having to pedal but the motor didnt like it much.
one of the brushes flamed out and the com got a little toasted. You could say this is my first Lipo fire.
The A123's were never able to get up my hill without assist and traversing.


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## ev_nred (Sep 23, 2009)

hey,
just a sugestion, have you considered scarping the tiny motor and going with a gaint bldc rc motor? there quite stornge (I've seen some as powerful as 17kw!) and there relly cheap ($100 for 7kw and $300 for 17kw) 
btw, hows the R1 coming along?


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