# Jeep Willys Tesla Build



## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

I am converting my grandfather's M38A1 Jeep Willys to electric (as well as restoring the jeep).

Some features include:
Tesla Model 3 drive unit;
narrowed Dana 44 axles from a 1975 Jeep Wagoneer;
Jeep YJ leaf spring conversion;
Orion 2 BMS 132s; and,
a Chevy Volt battery pack.

I am just finishing mounting the Model 3 drive unit sideways in the middle of the jeep. The front and rear drive shafts will each connect directly to the stock drive unit differential outputs. I plan to mount the entire battery pack (stock fiberglass shell and all) in the cab with the top of the "T" sitting where the rear bench seat normally would go. The car should be VERY torquey!


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Unless you're planning to install ABS, it's going to be absolutely horrible in low traction conditions. 

What you'll get is opposite to the Subaru commercial, with your setup: "Transfers power from the wheels that grip to the wheels that slip."

I know Qaife make a limited slip for the Model S LDU, but I haven't followed what's out there for Model 3. You might want to contact them to see if anything is in the works, if it isn't out already.


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## G00se (Mar 19, 2020)

Love it!


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## Chris_W (Aug 16, 2021)

I believe Zero EV are working on some solutions but haven’t released them yet.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

I saw that episode. They've changed the gearing, which is great, but they didn't say anything about torque biasing. They know what they're doing, so maybe they're keeping torque bias control under their hats, but, as I said, unless you're a dry pavement AWD poser, an open diff as a transfer case is a disaster when traction goes to heck on one or more wheels. 

This is where the Plaid drive unit (>>$) would shine...


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Zero EV's differentials come from Quaife; Quaife differentials are their ATB gear-type limited-slip. There is a Model 3 unit from them (Quaife, presumably only via Zero EV).


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Thanks, Remy Martian, Chris, and Brian! My dad had offered to make a spool but a limited slip differential would be way better since I would like the jeep to be somewhat streetable.


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## Chris_W (Aug 16, 2021)

NP…I just noticed Zero EV has the gear sets and the model 3 diff listed in their store now (a bit pricey)








Quaife Tesla Model 3 Differential - QDH7T







zero-ev.co.uk












Tesla Model 3 Rear Drive Unit Reduction Gearset 3.54:1







zero-ev.co.uk


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

That reduction gearset could be super helpful, too! Based on rough math, I think with the stock 9:1 Model 3 gearbox, 2.72 axle gears, and 30” tires, my max speed would be about 58 mph.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Jack it up and get it shod with 35's 😂


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## Chris_W (Aug 16, 2021)

Even with 33’s the motor would have to do 15000 rpm to do 60 mph
Here’s a good tool…





Tire Size, RPM, Speed, and Differential Ratio Calculator


Describes the process for converting a gasoline powered car to electric power



www.advanced-ev.com


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

remy_martian said:


> Jack it up and get it shod with 35's 😂
> [/QUOTE
> Haha!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Here is a chart I compiled comparing different Tesla motors for my M38A1 Jeep build. (I also included a couple hypothetical ICE drivetrains for comparison.) I thought the information might be of interest for similar jeep/ 4x4 projects.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Up to you, but the spreadsheet source might be useful for people with differing tire sizing, or vehicle weight, for example. You also have enough info on there to add a 0-60 time approximation column...


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## eWillysBoulder (Nov 19, 2021)

EV-FAN said:


> I am converting my grandfather's M38A1 Jeep Willys to electric (as well as restoring the jeep).
> 
> Some features include:
> Tesla Model 3 drive unit;
> ...


Hey EV-Fan, your project looks great. I could have used your welding talents when I converted my 1948 CJ2A "Chick Magnet". Question: have you run torque and power calculations under various driving conditions? I developed a set of calculations in MS-Excel when I planned my Willys conversion, it turned out to be very helpful and reasonably accurate. Lots of nail-biting staring at the Excel spreadsheet before taking the plunge and tearing the Jeep apart but it paid off. I would be happy to run your numbers on my spreadsheet if it is of any interest to you.
Oops, I see now that you did your homework. Never mind. Cheers!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Project Updates:

I ended up moving the motor mounting location rearward so that the front and rear driveshaft will be the same length (the attached picture is still of the old motor mounting location). Now the the driveshaft angles will be less harsh. I currently plan to use the stock tripod joint on the drive unit side and a double Cardan cv joint on the Dana 44 side. We're currently making an adapter so we can use the stock tripod joint with a 2" drive shaft. 

I got in my Orion BMS from Evolve Electronics. I still need to wire it up to my Volt pack. I went with the 132 S Orion BMS 2 because I plan on maintaining the stock Volt battery layout with the fuse/shut-off part way through the pack (if I counted correctly, the stock fuse is between parallel cell pairs #45 and 46). 

I got in my 3.3kw Elcon Charger from Evolve Electronics--the helpful people at Evolve told me that I can use the 3.3kw charger to start with and I can add a second charger in parallel down the road if I want faster charging.

I have the front and rear leaf springs mounts tacked in place (converted to YJ leaf springs). 

Other components that arrived:
Volvo power steering pump (after seeing a post from Electric Land Cruiser); 2.72 gears for the front axle; Dutchman custom length front axle shafts (the front axle is a narrowed 1975 Jeep Wagoneer axle).

Regarding the open diff/locking diff topic: after more thought about what I want to do with the car I am currently leaning towards eventually putting a spool in the drive unit. I plan to either drive the car around town (Southern California roads) or trailer the jeep to the desert on the weekends for short off-roading around the campsite. My current thinking is that with a spool in the center I can pull the front drive shaft out around town and just have rear wheel drive. For desert trips I could put the front driveshaft back in and have 4wd. My friend suggested for short road hops I could unlock the front hubs and drive the car on the road with the center diff locked.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Yup - I'd just go with the locking hubs. Driveshaft pulling is a PITA and you know you won't do it because you're only driving a short/minimal 😉 distance


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

remy_martian said:


> Up to you, but the spreadsheet source might be useful for people with differing tire sizing, or vehicle weight, for example. You also have enough info on there to add a 0-60 time approximation column...


Here is a link to Excel file. I could not figure out how to upload an Excel file directly to the forum page. Feel free to edit, add, repost, etc. I will try to add to the Excel file in the future and repost any updates:









Reference_Comparison_Chart_for_Tesla_Motor_in_4wd_car_DIY_Forum.XLSX


Shared with Dropbox




www.dropbox.com


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)




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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Working on wiring up my Orion BMS 2 to my Volt pack this week. I found the following video very helpful when spec'ing out and wiring the Orion BMS to a 2017 Volt battery:


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Weekend highlights: 1. Discovered the current meter provided with the Orion bms bolts right up to where the factory current meter was on the battery pack bulkhead.

2.Scored some Smart Car seats!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)




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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)




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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Successful initial setup of my Orion BMS, today! Any suggestions for gen 2 Volt battery parameters for the Orion Bms?


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## Overdriven (Dec 18, 2021)

For the diff you can do what broke drifters do, make a Lincoln Locker by welding the spider gears to each other. Idk how much a Tesla diff sells for or if more valuable to you on the shelf for possible future use in stock form though.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

EV-FAN said:


> View attachment 126601
> 
> View attachment 126600
> 
> ...


Are they heated?


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

remy_martian said:


> Are they heated?


I just checked and I don’t think so, unfortunately. The seller didn’t mention it and I don’t see any wires for it. They’re out of an older electric SmartCar.


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## 2drx4 (Jan 3, 2022)

Those SmartCar seats look pretty decent. They must be fairly narrow to fit in the Willys?


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

2drx4 said:


> Those SmartCar seats look pretty decent. They must be fairly narrow to fit in the Willys?


Thanks! The centerline of the seat rails are at 16” and the seats are a little wider. Here’s a link that shows a picture of the dimensions. (Full disclosure: he’s a friend of mine—if it makes a difference). Sport seat that fit lots of cars VW, Toyota trucks, Hotrods,...


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Overdriven said:


> For the diff you can do what broke drifters do, make a Lincoln Locker by welding the spider gears to each other. Idk how much a Tesla diff sells for or if more valuable to you on the shelf for possible future use in stock form though.


Thanks! I’m very torn on this topic between a locker or a lsd. In a perfect world I would want a system where I could switch between some sort of locked center diff (for 4wd mode) and having only the rear wheels fully locked (for 2wd for driving around town). My friend mentioned something like a drivetrain decoupler used on vw vans. As awesome as that’d be eventually—I think I’ll start with either an lsd or a machined spool. The model 3 lsd’s do seem to cost quite a bit of money and machining a spool could cost even more. Luckily , my father is a machinist and offered to make me one if I decide to go that route (and If there’s not a commercially available one at that time).


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## Overdriven (Dec 18, 2021)

For off-road you’d ideally want a spool. A locking type (Detroit locker) differential would be the next best choice followed by clutch type. Idk how serious of an off-road machine you plan this to be but I’d be a little concerned about long term wear with a viscous or quaife type differential especially with the front shaft removed or hubs not locked in. This would mean no load on the “front” side of the diff and it would be constantly working to send power to the rear and not unload. 
A spool and decoupler would be ideal, and not terribly complicated to cobble together. I’ve seen some done with splined shafts, matching coupler and some bearings. There will be added length to the Tesla drive unit and the need for shorter driveshaft(s) though.
If your machinist father can cut the required splines for a spool you may want to look into having him make a mini spool instead of a full spool. A mini spool simply replaces the spider gears in the differential with interlocking blocks to make it a spool. Less material, less material removal, less demanding tolerances, don’t have to change how the diff is shimmed in the housing, no permanent change to the existing diff.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Overdriven said:


> Idk how serious of an off-road machine you plan this to be but I’d be a little concerned about long term wear with a viscous or quaife type differential especially with the front shaft removed or hubs not locked in. This would mean no load on the “front” side of the diff and it would be constantly working to send power to the rear and not unload.
> A spool and decoupler would be ideal, and not terribly complicated to cobble together. I’ve seen some done with splined shafts, matching coupler and some bearings. There will be added length to the Tesla drive unit and the need for shorter driveshaft(s) though.
> If your machinist father can cut the required splines for a spool you may want to look into having him make a mini spool instead of a full spool. A mini spool simply replaces the spider gears in the differential with interlocking blocks to make it a spool. Less material, less material removal, less demanding tolerances, don’t have to change how the diff is shimmed in the housing, no permanent change to the existing diff.


With nothing connected to the front, most LSDs including the Quaife ATB or any Torsen wouldn't drive the vehicle at all, because they have a limited torque biasing ratio - they can apply more torque to the slower-turning output, but only to a limited multiple of the torque to the faster-turning shaft.



Overdriven said:


> If your machinist father can cut the required splines for a spool you may want to look into having him make a mini spool instead of a full spool. A mini spool simply replaces the spider gears in the differential with interlocking blocks to make it a spool. Less material, less material removal, less demanding tolerances, don’t have to change how the diff is shimmed in the housing, no permanent change to the existing diff.


A full spool is not a permanent change, either - the complete original diff is removed and replaced with the spool, and that is reversible. Only welding or otherwise mangling the pinion and side gears is permanent.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Overdriven said:


> For off-road you’d ideally want a spool. A locking type (Detroit locker) differential would be the next best choice followed by clutch type.


I think ideal is a differential (preferably limited-slip, but even open) with a locking device and a disconnect. That allows the same operating modes as a spool plus disconnect, but adds four wheel drive with a differential. Yes, its complex, adding both a front axle disconnect and a differential lock to the basic transaxle or transfer case; it's also a production item as a transfer case.


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## Overdriven (Dec 18, 2021)

brian_ said:


> A full spool is not a permanent change, either - the complete original diff is removed and replaced with the spool, and that is reversible. Only welding or otherwise mangling the pinion and side gears is permanent.


But creating a full spool from scratch, I believe, would be more expensive. I then listed the reasons why I believe creating a mini spool vs creating a full spool would be advantageous and more likely for his father to agree to making. No harm in giving people ideas/options


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## Overdriven (Dec 18, 2021)

brian_ said:


> I think ideal is a differential (preferably limited-slip, but even open) with a locking device and a disconnect. That allows the same operating modes as a spool plus disconnect, but adds four wheel drive with a differential. Yes, its complex, adding both a front axle disconnect and a differential lock to the basic transaxle or transfer case; it's also a production item as a transfer case.


Ideal is going to vary by person, vehicle, terrain, etc. A center differential (open or lsd) that’s not locked can help “turn in” ability at speed, great for rally cars but not likely to be felt in a leaf spring front suspension jeep. More likely is typical jeep driving that is slower, over obstacles, where a tire may end up hanging in the air occasionally. If the jeep in question doesn’t have a lsd or locker in the axle where the tire is hanging in air, only a locked center diff or spool is going to keep the jeep moving. The tire doesn’t even have to be in the air, could be in looser sand than the rest, just a position where less weight/contact with the ground is made than the others and the jeep is stuck. As you mentioned the available Quaife atb wouldn’t help this situation with a tire in the air, maybe a little in others where the difference in traction between the tires isn’t as great. So the owner needs to decide what will suit his needs. But for typical jeep driving the differential options are, weld the differential gears to create a spool, have his father make a custom mini spool or custom full spool, put lockers in the front and rear axles and run the quaife as 4wd all the time or find a company willing to make a different style of lsd/locker for the Tesla drive unit.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Overdriven said:


> But creating a full spool from scratch, I believe, would be more expensive. I then listed the reasons why I believe creating a mini spool vs creating a full spool would be advantageous and more likely for his father to agree to making. No harm in giving people ideas/options


I agree. I was just correcting the idea that a full spool would involve irreversible changes; it wouldn't any more than a mini spool would.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Tesla tripod joint to 2” driveshaft adapters are done!


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Who did the machining for you?


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

remy_martian said:


> Who did the machining for you?


Meziere Enterprises


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)




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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Now that the Model 3 drive unit drive shaft adapter is done, my next step is to tack weld 2” O.D. driveshaft tubing between the adapter and the 1310 double cardan cv joint. I plan to mock up the drive shaft and make sure everything fits properly throughout the suspension travel range before final welding.


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## Rusted B&B (Nov 6, 2020)

This is very cool


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

An example of how choosing Tesla up front paints you into a complexity and cost corner. 

The execution and craftsmanship is amazing, nonetheless.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Driveshaft mock-up. I plan to make the final driveshaft with 4130.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

I'm not sure you can mix a two way u-joint and a three way CV joint on the same shaft.

I'll let the gearheads weigh in on this, but it seems like a vibration nightmare in the works to me.

It's a cats and dogs sleeping together feeling, nothing based on facts.


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## Oldironcanuck (10 mo ago)

Looking good!
I have a wrecked model 3 and am thinking of the same setup in a Scout.
Zero ev gearset likely with limited slip and maybe traction control later on to help. I probably wouldn't be leaving the gravel roads though.

What motor control will you be using?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

The motor is right there looking at you


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)




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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)




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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Cooling System:

1.) I ordered a couple cheap radiators from eBay that would fit nicely at the back of the Jeep cowl.









2.) Since I wanted to stack the radiators in line and because I wanted to use AN lines, I cut the factory inlet and outlets. I then blocked off the holes and added ports for AN lines.










3.) I fabricated two rails in the "engine compartment" that would fit the radiator lugs.









4.) For the Chevy Volt fittings, I cut down the front of the bulkhead fittings. Then I welded AN-12 weld-in bungs onto the factory bulkhead fittings.
























5.) After mounting all the components, I measured the line length. Then I ordered Stainless steel AN lines with a heat shield covering. I used adapters to adapt from the drive unit fittings to AN -16.






























Two separate loops were used. The first loop--the battery loop--uses AN-12 lines. The battery loop radiator is the forward most radiator. The second loop--the drive unit loop--uses primarily -16 lines.


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## Oldironcanuck (10 mo ago)

Clean work for sure!
After market heated seat kits work great and are easy to install. Ventilated seats also a thought.
What did you find for a coolant pump?


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## Ken S (8 mo ago)

remy_martian said:


> I'm not sure you can mix a two way u-joint and a three way CV joint on the same shaft.
> I'll let the gearheads weigh in on this, but it seems like a vibration nightmare in the works to me.
> It's a cats and dogs sleeping together feeling, nothing based on facts.


He's right - it's unorthodox - like putting ketchup on oatmeal - but it's been done. IIRC, the Triumph TR7 used a driveshaft with CV joint on one end, and a single Hardy Spicer U-joint on the other.

This case is different. The double U-joint on the differential end could facilitate constant rotational speed of the drive shaft. But, in order for this to work, there are limitations. Reference this tech note from Belden Universal: U-Joint Phasing

_"Both configurations offer nearly constant velocity between the ingoing and outgoing end of the joint. However, a few conditions must be met. The double joint must be located on a virtual plane and the operating angles of the two joints must be the same. If one or both joint ends are placed at an angle that takes the assembly from the virtual plane into a free 3D configuration, the constant velocity relation is lost. Also, the two joints need to be phased at 180° against each other, aligning the inwards pointing yokes."_

I think this configuration will work. The motor output shaft and the differential input shaft are co-planar, and I think both the short center segment of the double u-joint and the drive shaft will lie in the that same plane. This appears to be a "W" configuration plus a CV joint on one end.

If I'm wrong, it will vibrate. But that did not stop the TR7; the factory built 140,000 of them.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Oldironcanuck said:


> Clean work for sure!
> After market heated seat kits work great and are easy to install. Ventilated seats also a thought.
> What did you find for a coolant pump?


Thanks! 

I live in Southern California so heating was not on the top of my priorities for this project. That's a good idea for colder climates. Maybe down the road I will expand the scope.

My family makes some really nice electric water pumps. I am planning on using a couple of their pumps. For the battery pack I am planning on starting with a Meziere WP136 <Electric Pump Remote, 20 GPM Inline, Single in-single out>. For the drive unit loop, I am planning on using a WP726 <BRUSHLESS INTERCOOLER PUMP, REMOTE INLINE 12V>. Both those are starting points based on approximations/guesses of what the Volt battery and Model 3 drive unit pressure/flow requirements are. Once everything is set up, I plan to test and adjust if necessary. When I get a chance I would like to measure the pressure and flow of each circuit to help inform any necessary adjustments.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

I bet a friend I would have the Jeep driving (at least around the parking lot) by the end of June. I lost the bet, but tons of progress was made thanks to the help of my family and friends.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

I am using the Model 3 brake and throttle pedal. The pedals in the original M38A1 Jeep sit on either side of the steering wheel column. I had trouble fitting the complete assembly in the Jeep so I separated the pedals. The throttle pedal unbolts with one bolt and slides right out. Then I cut the excess bracket material off. I made a mounting bracket for the throttle pedal that resulted in the desired angle.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Chevy Volt battery to Model 3 High Voltage harness:
I am using the Chevy Volt battery box with the stock Chevy Volt connector. I tried to use new cable and crimp on connectors that I disassembled from Ebay Model 3 and Chevy Volt connectors, but I hit a dead end. The connectors are designed for ultra sonic welding. Ultimately, I ended up just cutting the factory HV harnesses and splicing new wire in the middle using crimp connectors. I sourced the extra cable from EV West <Hew-Kabel 50mmÂ² CE Rated Shielded Cable - Orange, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits>. The crimp splice connectors and large diameter heat shrink came from McMaster Carr. I cut the insulation back; rolled the shielding back; installed the crimp splice; slid the first heat shrink over the exposed cable/splice and hit it with the heat gun; rolled the shielding over the newly installed heat shrink and made sure to have the two side of shielding make contact all the way around; then I slid the second layer of heat shrink over the shielding and hit it with the heat gun. Great caution was taken to ensure good isolation between the cable and shielding. 

I am very excited about only having one length of exposed HV cable in the project (battery box to drive unit).


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Model 3 drive unit HV Connection:
While working on the Model 3 drive unit to Chevy Volt battery HV cable at 11 o'clock at night and trying to win a deadline bet, I realized there is little documentation online about the connector polarity of the Model 3 drive unit. Thank you to Roadstercycle and Michael at EVWest for helping me sort out the confusion. 









Tesla Model 3 HV wiring


Does anyone happen to know which “terminal” is positive and which one is negative on a Tesla model 3 rear motor?




www.diyelectriccar.com


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

I found this fuse block from Blue Sea Systems to work very nicely for the low voltage distribution.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Good progress on the steering system. I finished assembling the knuckle and spindle/hub assembly. Now my dad is helping out putting together the steering system. I used a high steer spindle/arm on the passenger side for the drag link attachment. the tie rods are all 1 ton GM. The tie rod and drag link are 1.5" OD .125" chromoly.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

iBooster:
I am using a Model brake booster. I originally tried using a Model Y brake booster, but the studs did not match up with the Model 3 pedal assembly. Neither the Model Y tank nor the Honda tank I tried matched up to the Model 3 master cylinder. We ended up making adapters and order some remote tanks that will be connected with rubber hose.


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

EV-FAN said:


> iBooster:
> I am using a Model brake booster.


typo


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

This weekend we worked on: 1) tidying up the wiring; 2) mounting the steering column; and 3) mounting the driver seat.

We found some very cool wire wrap from wire care.com. The wrap we used is the F6 woven wrap. It made a huge difference.We still have a long ways to go until the wiring is finalized.


























We made a trick little cup that locates the bottom of the steering column. We tested the steering system out for the first time. Everything moved smoothly—at least while it was up on jack stands!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

It lives!









“Fired” up the motor on Tuesday night!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

I installed a lot of the lego pieces this weekend, including the driveshafts.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Driveshaft install:


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

First test drive this weekend:









Tesla Model 3 Jeep


I put a Tesla Model 3 motor in an old Army Jeep and it is magical!www.JournEEoffroad.com




m.youtube.com


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Weigh in day!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)




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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Got some help this weekend closing the floor back up! No more Flintstones!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

The Jeep is getting a cage!


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

Some beautiful pipe bending there. Gorgeous sculpting.

Are you planning to add pipe connectors down to the frame & triangulation? It's not a roll cage without those, but a could be mechanism to pin you if it flips.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

remy_martian said:


> Some beautiful pipe bending there. Gorgeous sculpting.
> 
> Are you planning to add pipe connectors down to the frame & triangulation? It's not a roll cage without those, but a could be mechanism to pin you if it flips.


Thanks! It’s a kit from Genright. Jeep CJ-7 Laser Notched Full Roll Cage Kit. I am super impressed by their product so far. It had super convenient tabs on almost all the tubes. I did have to modify it slightly because it is for the cj7.

Definitely. We’re planning on running outriggers from the frame (2x3) rectangle tubing that will bolt to the upper bolt plates.The body will be sandwiched between the upper cage bar bolt plates and the lower cage bar bolt plates. That way the body will still be removable….There are also some additional bars from the kit that haven’t been added yet.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Making some continued progress on the cage!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

We ran a bar all the way across for the “B” pillar tie in.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Friend welded up the cage!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)




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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Upgraded shocks to Bilsteins!


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

Lot's of sheet metal work lately! Major projects included adding a patch panel to shift the wheel wells back and filling the gas filler hole.


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## EV-FAN (May 17, 2021)

A lot of sheet metal work on the "interior" as well. Shifting the wheels wells back allowed me to add about 3" of much needed leg room. I also had to add about 3/8" of width clearance between the wheel wells to accommodate the "T" part of the Volt battery pack.


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## 67EJeepster (Nov 7, 2017)

Awesome build! This is basically what I want to do to my 67 Jeepster. Thanks for sharing!


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## ScythianNightingale (Aug 9, 2019)

What motor controller are you running in this. awesome work, it looks like it'll be a blast to drive around!


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## connor016 (26 d ago)

ScythianNightingale said:


> What motor controller are you running in this. awesome work, it looks like it'll be a blast to drive around!


Awesome build and trying to do something similar. X2 on the controller question.


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