# Azure / Ford DC/DC Converter



## major (Apr 4, 2008)

CKidder said:


> I have two of the DC/DC converters from the AZD bankruptcy sale. These were used in the Transit Connect Electric vehicles. I'd really like to use them in my other conversions.
> 
> I have taken the cover off of one of the units in order to trace down how it is supposed to be connected. I also have the schematics for the TCE but they aren't quite as useful as I'd like. Attached are four pictures of the insides of the DC/DC converter plus I added the schematics (page 21 is the DC/DC converter). I think that I have properly identified HV +/- and 12V +/-. From the schematic I believe I have gotten the disable and fault lines properly identified. I'm not confident about what the third pin on that 10 pin connector is. It is colored green inside the unit and might be a ground reference for the other two wires but it isn't directly connected to chassis ground so I'm not really sure. As the pictures show, the small two pin connector on the HV plug is just a wire loop so at best it closed a fault loop that controls HV power to the converter. The TCE schematics seem to suggest it was not used.
> 
> Has anyone tried to use one of these converters in something else? Does anyone have any additional insight about this unit? I looked all over and TDK is pretty tight lipped about the unit despite making it. It appears it might be upwards of 200A output.


Yep, I installed one in Tony's conversion. Just figured out the +/- input and it works nicely. I could not find any info on it or the mating connector. Offhand I can't confirm your polarity notes. Have you tried it yet?


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## CKidder (Dec 12, 2009)

major said:


> Yep, I installed one in Tony's conversion. Just figured out the +/- input and it works nicely. I could not find any info on it or the mating connector. Offhand I can't confirm your polarity notes. Have you tried it yet?


No, I haven't tried it yet. I am a bit afraid to because I have blown up a DC/DC converter by connecting it reverse polarity at the HV wires. I don't really see a blocking diode at the input but one may or may not be in there. It might not even matter what polarity the HV is attached with. I just don't know. I'm encouraged by the fact that it worked for you on seemingly the first try. However, you did have a 50% chance of that happening so I'm still not totally sure. My polarity guess was because people tend to fuse the + connection and not the - connection. So, my guess is that the plus connection is the one with the fuse.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

CKidder said:


> No, I haven't tried it yet. I am a bit afraid to because I have blown up a DC/DC converter by connecting it reverse polarity at the HV wires. I don't really see a blocking diode at the input but one may or may not be in there. It might not even matter what polarity the HV is attached with. I just don't know. I'm encouraged by the fact that it worked for you on seemingly the first try. However, you did have a 50% chance of that happening so I'm still not totally sure. My polarity guess was because people tend to fuse the + connection and not the - connection. So, my guess is that the plus connection is the one with the fuse.


I forget how I figured it out. I removed the cover like you did. There was a clue there somewhere. I think I made a note of it. I'll check and see if I can find it. I need to because I have a second one I want to use in a different EV. Tony's is installed deep and I don't want to pull it to check. It'll take a day or two for me to look around the lab for my notes.


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## Madmac (Mar 14, 2008)

The high voltage pinout is correct. I checked by looking up the Panasonic low power switchmode controller IC and then metered out the drain pin for negative connection.

The control lines are reversed on your picture. Pull enable low to turn off power supply. Not been able to get the Fault line to trigger yet. The third connection controls the output voltage, not connected it is 14V8 and pulled to ground is 13V5.

Unit runs happily at 240V DC which is maximum for my high current power supply, so have not been able to check if there is a high voltage cutout.

This DC to DC is widely used on Ford hybrids. There seems to be two versions with the only difference being the add on plate with cooling connections, one being with both pipes at right angle to the body and the other with one parallel.

Prices for salvaged parts on eBay are good

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-2011...pt=Electric_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item3f2bc97aba

Edit

I think the mating high voltage connector is Yazaki 7325-6795-51. The connector used for the high voltage on the water heater block and the air con compressor is a different Yazaki.
There should be a lot of both around as there were a lot sold at the auction both in the US and UK. So far only found one source but the price is a bit high.
A better source might be a scrap yard.... out of a Ford hybrid.


The two pin safety loop on the main DC connector is used to kill the high voltage if the connector is removed. The contacts are arranged to break first make last. I would suspect
that all the high voltage connectors have this wired and used on the Azure Connect. Usually this will also cause the HV rail to be discharged after the contactor to battery is disconnected.
In my conversion the HV interlock (and collision impact sensor) goes to hardware in the VCU that turns off the battery contactors and then turns all four channels of the Mitsubishi heater block on to discharge the HV rail.

George McDuff


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Madmac said:


> The high voltage pinout is correct....


Thanks. Needed that. And thanks for the rest of the info.


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## CKidder (Dec 12, 2009)

Yes, thank you for the verification and correction! That'll be really helpful when I try to use this device. It really seems like a very nice converter. It's interesting that they can be gotten so cheaply now.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Digging up a very old topic.
I use the same DC-DC converter but am struggling to find a good place in my car (have cut out the support I created for the second time now).
My questions:
- Does anyone know where to buy the HV connector? I want an angled one.
- Does anyone know the IP rating of the thing/connectors?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

oudevolvo said:


> Digging up a very old topic.
> I use the same DC-DC converter but am struggling to find a good place in my car (have cut out the support I created for the second time now).
> My questions:
> - Does anyone know where to buy the HV connector? I want an angled one.
> - Does anyone know the IP rating of the thing/connectors?


Hi oude,

I have a couple of the high voltage connector/cable assemblies. I'll sell one to ya. PM me.

major


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

oudevolvo said:


> Does anyone know the IP rating of the thing/connectors?


Still looking for a suitable spot for this DC/DC in my car. Any suggestions on how well this thing can handle moisture?

This would be my best option but it is in the engine compartment and quite close to the front grilles (about 50 cm).


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

And is the plug for the grey connector in the middle known?


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

I found a picture on the web of such a DC-DC with the connector on it.







Does anyone have a clue how to further identify and source it?


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## bjcouche (May 17, 2013)

Assuming that the mating female connector shown above is the actual match, I believe that I have identified it, that's the good news. The bad news is that they are as easy to find as hens teeth.
It is a Sumitomo (Japanese) connector. It is the 2.2 series and NOT the more common 2.3 series. The part number would be: 90980-11658. The only thing that I cannot be 100% certain of is the keying. connectors often come with different keying in the same connector pin count and family... Worst case you would have to break off the keying tabs on the DC-DC connector. I have no idea where to purchase just the connector. Only the few more common Sumitomo ones are available in the US. It looks like this particular connector might also be used on a Japanese made transmission:
http://godaca.com/1x-connector-10-way-for-transmission-solenoid-valve-toyota-90980-11658/

Sometimes you can buy new connector pigtails from a Toyota dealer if you have the correct part number. Sometimes though it's just as easy to stop by the junk yard and clip one off a vehicle, as long as you know which makes and models use them....

The data can be found here:
http://www.kinkong-connector.com/pr...idvalveplugfortoyotackk7101b-22-21-ID898.html

Brian


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

Thanks Brian!
That is very helpful information.
Perhaps I'll just order one to give it a try.
Another option perhaps is that the same DC/DC converter was used on the following vehicles.
2005-2012 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID
2006-2011 MERCURY MARINER HYBRID
2008-2009 MAZDA TRIBUTE HYBRID
I've contacted two sellers of such a DC/DC on eBay which still had the connector on the DC/DC and asked whether it was for sale separately.
One guy replied it is and will look for the part and get back to me.

I also submitted a request to partrequest.com but no luck yet.
Will keep you posted as soon as I get my hands on one.


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## oudevolvo (Mar 10, 2015)

The US Ford Escape route was not very fruitful. The single lead I had never responded again nor did other breakers who listed Ford Escape hybrid parts.

In the end I found this source https://m.dutch.alibaba.com/p-detail/TOYOTA-10930-10-way-female-Transmission-60601440210.html
I ordered a couple and the good news is that they fit!








Even without breaking tabs on the DC/DC converter.


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