# Mazda GLC Conversion Progress



## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

Looks like I'm committed at this point - 1985 Mazda GLC seadan purchased, 12 - 6v Golf Cart batteries from Sam's Club in the shed, order placed with e-volks for the #2 kit, and the clutch disc sent to them to fabricate the coupler. The car actually drives nicely, so will get a little more use out of it for a few more weeks before I start deconstruction. Will post some pics soon.


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## ww321q (Mar 28, 2008)

That should be a "great little car"! LOL! sorry I couldn't help my self ! J.W.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

Still getting the parts - but at least I've uploaded a picture of the donor car. I have replaced the outer belt door weatherstrip with generic JC Whitney pieces and removed the truck "Mazda GLC LX" and "Mazda" emblems and have filled the holes. I intend on putting some sort of electric car theme emblems there instead.

E-volks/EV Wilderness received my order on Aug 20, and I got the first shipment for the 72v kit on Sept 4 - actually a little earlier than expected. Included in the shipment was the D&D motor systems ES-15A motor, D&D Controller (Alltrax 7245 w/D&D labels & 400 amp fuse), and a Schumacher SE-1072 72v charger. I already purchased 12 - 6v golf cart batteries from Sam's club.

I'm probably going to start the design for the battery installation - I plan on putting 6 in the trunk (which is huge for such a small car) and six in the engine compartment. I know that I will have to find higher rate springs for the rear struts once I put 370 lbs of batteries there and are looking at options. Here is a great link to Moog's site to match spring specs to your needs:http://bbb-carb.com/moog_Coil_Springs.htm


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## ww321q (Mar 28, 2008)

That should be a good conversion . I think that car weighs about 2000lbs . Seems a lot of us are going 72 volts to start with . I'm going to make room for 12 12v batteries in mine . 4 in the front , some over the rear wheels (4 or 5?) also making the spot that the spare sat in a 6 battery battery box . J.W.


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## madderscience (Jun 28, 2008)

Since you bought the batteries early, you need to keep them on a float charge while you do the rest of your conversion. Batteries often will not be fully charged when purchased (especially from a big-box type retailer) and they do self-discharge a few percent a month. Letting lead acid batteries sit discharged will damage them. 

The easiest way to keep them charged (if you don't yet have a proper 72v charger) is pair them up (6 pairs of 2) and top them off in pairs with an automotive 12v battery charger. Do this every couple weeks.

Going 72v has the advantage of allowing you to use less expensive parts (you are starting to get into golf cart territory so more parts are available) but it will limit your power to around 50mph so probably not good for highway usage.

Leaving room for more batteries is a good idea. Keep in mind that 8v traction batteries are the same form factor as 6v ones so you could bump up to 96v without increasing weight (or range) but this would get you more speed if you decide you need it but you would likely need a charger and controller and DC-DC converter upgrade if you change battery voltages later on.

Good Luck


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

Thanks for the heads up on the batteries - I did receive a 72v charger from e-volks (SE-1072). It comes with several short jumpers so I can set it up to charge. I expect it will at least two months before I will be operational. I realized that the 72v system is marginal - I am using this as a test/experience builder.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

I fabricated the rear battery tray to hold the six - 6v batteries yesterday using steel angle and flat bar from Home Depot. I've attached a picture of the tacked assembly and then with the batteries in place for the "load test." 
With the load in place, the car squatted pretty low (last image), but there is still some suspension travel. I assume I will have to modify the suspension with either booster springs, a spring spacer, or just replace the springs all together to get to a reasonable ride height. A coil over would be good, but I can't find anything for a 1985 Mazda GLC.


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## O'Zeeke (Mar 9, 2008)

akorna said:


> I fabricated the rear battery tray to hold the six - 6v batteries yesterday using steel angle and flat bar from Home Depot. I've attached a picture of the tacked assembly and then with the batteries in place for the "load test."
> With the load in place, the car squatted pretty low (last image), but there is still some suspension travel. I assume I will have to modify the suspension with either booster springs, a spring spacer, or just replace the springs all together to get to a reasonable ride height. A coil over would be good, but I can't find anything for a 1985 Mazda GLC.


 
Nice job on the racks akorna, for your suspension you might try airbags, i found them for my mustang at jc whitney but i had to email the request since they were not in their catalog. They are supposed to be good for up to 1000 lb load. I would recommend not using spacers as they just shorten spring travel and can contribute to spring breakage.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

UPDATE: I received the second and final shipment of all of "kit components" from e-volks a few weeks ago. Only took about a month to get everything, including the coupler and adapter plate - pleased with the turnaround time. 

Speaking of the coupler (see pics) - the clutch disc frame was left on the coupler, I've seen this before, but not sure why. I am planning on just cutting it all off - unless someone tells me not to.

I learned a lot about working with the 2/0 welding cable that came with the "kit." I built connecters for the 6 battery pack in the trunk. To make the short cables with a "S" curve, you cut the cable (hacksaw worked best for me), then you knead it into shape. After getting the right shape, then you attach the terminals. If you try to attach the terminals to the cable while still straight, you "trap" the cable strands and the cable cannot be shaped. I think the 32 ft of cable will not be enough because of the front and rear battery pack configuration - but we'll see.

The kit came with a Westach Voltmeter and Ammeter. There was a great open (storage) space in the center stack, so I build a panel module out of .080 styrene to house the instruments. There was enough room for a third gauge, so I've ordered a cheap Sunpro Vacuum gauge (for the brakes) and a voltmeter for the 12v accessory battery - have a pic attached showing position in the dash.

I took the car to the landfill where they have a scale as you drive in - with me and a 1/2 tank of gas the scales showed 2220 lbs, which surprised me because the curb weight is listed at 1945 lbs. Subtracting me and the gas (175 + 50) - that would be about 1,995 lbs for the "before conversion weight."

I didn't like the Schumacher SE-1072 charger that came with the kit because it's a "dumb" charger. I got Harry Landis (Electric Tractor) to build me a 72v controller to smarten it up. The pic shows it prior to internal mounting in the charger.

The car is running so well - and economically - that I'm procrastating about the ICE pull - I'll come to grips shortly.


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

looking groovy.. just ordered my parts today, but thankfully it's all in stock! I'm struggling with removing the engine in mine, but the engine compartment is largely dismantled, so the actually removing is about all that's left for that job.. 

Good luck man!


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## ww321q (Mar 28, 2008)

akorna you may find that that spring retainer on your adapter may be harder then hell as mine was . J.W.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

J.W. - so did you remove it? Looks to me like my air cutoff tool w/abrasive disc would make short work of it.


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## ww321q (Mar 28, 2008)

That would work . I turned mine on the lathe and it was all that the carbide cutter could do to cut it . good luck ! J.W.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

*ICE OUT - Electric Motor In...*

About three weeks ago I finally got up the courage to yank the engine - overall went pretty smoothly. 

Fitting up the engine to the generic adapter plate provided with the e-volks kit was a little harder, but after numerous fitting and re-fitting, drilling, grinding - the motor was mounted to the transmission. After placing the assembly back into the engine bay, I set the height of the motor and fabricated a mounting bracket.

I connected the battery back to the main fusible link and checked to see that all lights, wipers, horn and fan worked. everything was still operable.

Next step is beginning to lay out the battery support frames. I need to squeeze 6 + the accessory battery. It looks like it's going to be tight.

Attached pics show progress.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

I was busy this weekend building the battery racks in the engine compartment. I did not have a lot of contiguous space, so I had to do a lot of trial and error configurations. I built a cardboard replica of the battery I was using. Weighing only a few ounces, it was very easy to move around and use for test fitting. I assembled a front of motor rack and a rear of motor rack. They are both bolted in place and can be removed fairly easily. Once I had them at least 75% welded, I tested all of the "real" batteries for fit. All six - 6 volt and one 12 volt accessory battery are shown in the pics. 

The acc battery was bigger than I was planning - but the Energizer (Sam's Club) 24DC battery is rated at 75 ahrs, and was only $62. With all the batteries in place, the front end was very close to stock height.

I pulled everything out and will add more weld metal to make sure everying is solid. Not shown but I also found a mounting location for the Alltrax controller. Still need to figure location for the contactor, shunt, and pot-box.


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

thos batt racks looks great, funny, as the layout is almost exactly what I have planned for my motor bay

I soooo wish I knew how to weld! I'm right at the welding part of my conversion too.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

Welding using a wire feed welder is pretty easy with a little practice. I bought a Hobart unit about a year ago for $450, Lincolns a are similarly priced. You could use it for this project and sell it for probably $300-350 if you didn't want to keep it (but you will).

Years ago I used one set up as a MIG with the Argon/Co2 shielding gas, but I've only used the flux core wire with the Hobart unit, and it works just fine - no need for the gas. Just set the speed and amperage as per the instructions, keep the tip no more than about 1/4 inch away from the work and strive for a consistent "eggs frying in the pan" sound. Do multiple spot welds - trigger depressed for 3-5 seconds, rather than trying to do a continuous bead. Also, make sure you get one of the auto-darkening helmets. I got one at Northern Tools, where I got the welder, for $50 - a huge help.


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## Tubularfab (Sep 25, 2008)

akorna said:


> Do multiple spot welds - trigger depressed for 3-5 seconds, rather than trying to do a continuous bead.


Actually that is a really bad way to weld something, specially with fluxcore wire. It makes the weld much more susceptable to stress cracking when you do a series of spot welds next to each other even with true MIG, and the flux with fluxcore makes this much worse.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

Tubularfab,
Can't argue with you since my experience comes from working mostly with sheet metal and thinner steel and I take it that you have significant fabrication expertise. The spot welds prevent warping of the body panels - you don't weld the spot next to each other but alternate to prevent concentrated heat. I don't think the stresses on battery racks will result in any failure using this approach - and it's easier for someone to get used to using the welder.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

*It's ALIVE!!!!*

Sorry no pictures on this post - getting ready to head out of town - but I achieved a progress milestone last night.

I finished all of the 2/0 cable assemblies and completed the connections. Although the rear battery rack was ready for the batteries, I set up the rear batteries outside the car since I need to replace the springs - much easier without the batteries in place. Used heavy duty jumper cables to make the front to rear connection.

First gear engaged, Ignition on - contactor clicks -controller light green - press the throttle - nothing happens for the first inch of travel - then the vehicle silently moves foward two feet. Engage reverse, backwards two feet. As I said "It's Alive!" 

Unfortunately ran across a glitch. After turning of the ignition switch, the controller was still green. Using my voltmeter I verified that voltage was still passing through the contactor (Gigavac). I disconnected the 12v lead to the contactor - still has voltage. Appears that the contactor is stuck - assume defective. I tapped it several times and the switch opened. I reconnected the 12v switched power - turned the key. The contactor switch closed, then key off - switch still closed. The contactor is under warranty - so hopefully will not have any trouble getting it replaced.

Only other issue is the long pedal travel before the motor moves the vehicle. I set up the pot-box to use the full range of pedal travel. Might be that I need to reprogram the controller so that the voltage increases faster at the beginning of the arm travel - will investigate once I get the contactor issue sorted out.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

*Mazda GLC Conversion Progress - First Road Test*

Last Saturday I decided to connect the power using a manual battery disconnect, since e-volks told me that the contactor replacement (Kilovac EV200 vice Gigavac GX12) was backordered.

The maiden voyage was 5.8 miles and I reached a maximum speed of 41.4 mph according to the GPS. It might have gone a little faster, but I was coming to a light and the power brake vacuum system was not yet installed - so I wanted to make sure I had plenty of stopping distance. The "clutchless" shifting worked fine - just made sure I had a distinct pause in neutral before pushing to the next gear.

Speaking of the PB system - I started working on that today. I mounted the vacuum canister I bought from SummitRacing.com http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=SUM-G1464&N=700+-45701+115&autoview=sku for $35 on a fabricated bracket in the LF corner of the engine compartment. The used SAAB vacuum pump will be mounted on the strut tower, and the relay and pressure switch will be mounted on a steel panel in between.

My heavier duty rear springs to correct the sag in the rear due to the battery weight have been delayed again - now RockAuto.com tells me they will ship Dec 1.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

Disappointed in the vacuum power brake set-up. The SAAB vacuum pump will pull 17-18 inches of vacuum - but it takes about 60-70 seconds to evacuate the booster and the cannister, and then there is a leak(s) that drops it to zero after about the same amount of time. 

I have driven the car several times without the power assist - and with the exception of a more pedal effort, the car stops fine. I may consider just deferring a noisy power sapping system, and just make sure the brakes are up to snuff - new rotors, drums, pads, fluid. Would probably be less cost than a purpose designed pump.


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

akorna said:


> Disappointed in the vacuum power brake set-up. The SAAB vacuum pump will pull 17-18 inches of vacuum - but it takes about 60-70 seconds to evacuate the booster and the cannister, and then there is a leak(s) that drops it to zero after about the same amount of time...


A couple of things:
-Do you have hose clamps on all the fittings?
-Do you have an inline check valve between the vaccum motor/switch and your secondary reservoir?
-Is the ICE power brake booster (primary vaccum reservoir) and it's check valve/grommet leaking?

I had to replace my ICE vacuum assist booster as the booster/check valve/grommet were all bad. They were good enough with tons of ICE vacuum, but could not maintain vacuum with the 12V vacuum pump system.

Here's my set up for reference minus showing the line at the main brake booster through it's one-way check valve. 

The white plastic 3/8" inline check valve from the vacuum switch/motor to the vacuum reservoir was bought off eBay for about $5- and is one where people who do those hydrogen generators use. 

It's a little difficult to install the 5/16" vacuum/fuel line hose on some of the valves/fittings, but with some shoving and a little vaseline or WD-40 on it will help the hose slide on.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

akorna said:


> Disappointed in the vacuum power brake set-up. The SAAB vacuum pump will pull 17-18 inches of vacuum - but it takes about 60-70 seconds to evacuate the booster and the cannister, and then there is a leak(s) that drops it to zero after about the same amount of time.


you should not give up on vac assist.... gotta have it for quick stops unless you have quick reactions and monster quads.

I had trouble getting lower than -13inHg... turns out that since I live at 7500 ft elevation, thats all the pump will do. What elevation are you at?!

I used teflon pipe dope (not tape) and hose clamps at all fittings. holds same vac overnight with no loss. Do you have a check valve?


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

Thanks for advice - the pressure required is not bad - but I was a competitive powerlifter and still do heavy squats, but another driver may have a different opinion...

I'm at elevation "7" in Virginia Beach - so no issues with elevation here. I have not tracked down the leakage source(s) yet - I'm not so sure it isn't internal to the vacuum switch. I have a one-way check valve that came with the vacuum can, it is between the can and the pump. My biggest problem is really the pump - not enough grunt.


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

akorna said:


> ... I'm not so sure it isn't internal to the vacuum switch. I have a one-way check valve that came with the vacuum can, it is between the can and the pump. My biggest problem is really the pump - not enough grunt.


You might want to take a quick visual check of the diaphram around its circumference and see if there is any distortion from the two vaccum body parts screwed and torqued together unevenly.

I had to unscrew some of the screws on the two vacuum switch body halves to install a mounting bracket. After I installed the bracket, the diaphram looked a little distorted so I loosened and retightened all of them again.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

I checked the system quickly today - the MPL switch is leaking vacuum - I'll post a pick later. Also, as noted by tj4fa, I suspect leakage at the aux vacuum canister grommet & check valve. I'll come back to it later - very drivable right now.

In the meantime - finally uploaded some picks - I pushed up the range today to 15 miles - I hit 46 mph on the GPS. When I started the project I was hoping for 20 mile range & 50 mph. I think the range is attainable, not sure about the speed.

I worked on the gauges - all operational and I have the wiring set up for the gauge lights - had to tap into a connector to get the variable resistance to ground rheostat. The dimmer now controls the gauges also. Also got the plexiglass grill installed - will paint flat black.

Just got notification that the springs I'm going to try have been shipped - been backordered for almost 5 weeks.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

*Re: Mazda GLC Conversion Progress - new top speed*

Drove to the a local mall today - only about 7 miles round-trip, but the GPS registered 48 mph on the trip over when the charge was fresh. I had checked the tire pressures and found the rears were down - I set all four at 45 psi - probably was what gave me the extra 2 mph. closing in on 50.


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

congrats man.. funny, but we were on pretty much the same build schedule - you got your components right when I ordered mine and we both took our first test drives within days of each other!

So you have a 72 volt system for an in town commuter. Cool... what controller are you using and how quick are your takeoffs? While adequate, I'm finding my car to be much slower than I anticipated. I haven't had it on the highway yet, but got up to 60 yesterday on a major city thoroughfare (yes, I was speeding.. but don't tell anyone). I might take it on a highway run today just to see how fast it can go.


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

PatricioIN,
Yes - I only have 72 volts to play with - big cost jump in components above that voltage. Controller is an ALLTRAX 7245 (450amp) programmable relabled as a D&D systems unit all packed with the kit from e-volks. The car is ok to 25 mph - very very slow above that. 

The vehicle weighed about 2000 lbs with the ICE - which was only 68 horsepower, so it was slow to start with. I actually think 96 volts would make it more practical, which I could do by swapping the 6v for 8v batteries, but then the controller and charger would have to be changed.


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## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

gotcha.. that's the reason I stayed at 120v - big cost jump again to go higher. I will say that I did a bit of research and found the current limit on my controller to be ajustable, so turned it up all the way and seems to be a bit peppier. Hey, if it works for your needs then leave it the way it is.


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## mill (Aug 22, 2008)

akorna, i have serveral 12v automotive air suspension compressors that i have been testing and they have an inlet tube that easily pulls 27'' of vacuum, they look similar to the gast vacuum pump units, i havent had time to try one out on my car but if you want you can pick one up to test, if it works good its yours, im at the oceanfront


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## akorna (Aug 13, 2008)

Mill,
Thanks - sent you a PM.


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