# Leaf Modules



## rochesterricer (Jan 5, 2011)

Good stuff. Are these new cells or used ones from salvage? Got a link for the method of adding cells to a Leaf pack? You made me curious. Also out of curiosity, has anyone tested these cells on discharge to see what kind of C rates they are capable of?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Cells are slightly used. All modules checked and guaranteed. As for how to add a pack, I will be finding out and then letting everyone know how it works. As for C rate, Im not sure. Id hope to get at least 3C. I will be setting them up for low voltage and higher amperage so a decent C rate will be needed. These cells do however come from a system that is a high voltage and low amperage. Less C rating needed in this case. But by putting modules in parallel you can get higher C rates. With the HPEVS system of 96 volts and 650 amps should be easy to do without damage to the cells. If I had an extra module for testing I'd do some testing to see.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Oh CELLS. I had thought many full leaf packs. Another bubble gone......


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Modules but you can get the whole thing if you wanted. I don't have need of the whole shell of the pack. 48 modules make up the pack. I am getting the modules without the pack shell which is just un-needed weight.


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## hmincr (Jan 20, 2012)

Info http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=52162


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## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

onegreenev said:


> These cells do however come from a system that is a high voltage and low amperage. Less C rating needed in this case.


People say this all the time, but it is not accurate at all. Putting aside voltage sag, C rating is just another way of saying "kW per kWh. The overall voltage of the system has zero effect on how much power you can get out of a pack of a given number of cells of a given kind.

In your case, you'll be fine getting 3C peak, as Nissan gets a peak of 80 kW from a 24kWh pack, and that's more than 3C.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

When folks say that they are referring to being able to get a specific amperage draw from a particular cell. So my CALB SE 100ah cells will provide continuous 3C and that equates to 300 amps per cell. If I double the AH I will then be able to pull 600 amps from each cell without damage. The higher voltage systems use lower AH cells. The 3C on a 60ah cell would be only 180 amps. Because I use a lower voltage system I must buddy up some cells to allow for the higher currents per cell I will need. If the Leaf can do 3C once buddy paired I should be able to get my needed amperage. I will need to pull 650 amps peak. Most high voltage systems use 300 amps or less.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

I am pulling the trigger on two packs for $6k with a 2 year guarantee. They will be here by 9am tomorrow.


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## Karter2 (Nov 17, 2011)

For those that missed the info in that ES link above, someone has shown test results at 10C (300amps per cell).
Also the listed Power density of these cells is 2400 W/kg. which would imply that 16C is theoretically the max ?


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## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

onegreenev said:


> When folks say that they are referring to being able to get a specific amperage draw from a particular cell. So my CALB SE 100ah cells will provide continuous 3C and that equates to 300 amps per cell. If I double the AH I will then be able to pull 600 amps from each cell without damage. The higher voltage systems use lower AH cells. The 3C on a 60ah cell would be only 180 amps. Because I use a lower voltage system I must buddy up some cells to allow for the higher currents per cell I will need. If the Leaf can do 3C once buddy paired I should be able to get my needed amperage. I will need to pull 650 amps peak. Most high voltage systems use 300 amps or less.


I know what they mean. People got into the habit of equating current and power because voltage was always roughly the same in the old DC systems. This has led a lot of people to the false assumption that, since higher voltage systems use less current, they require less "C rating" than low voltage systems. This is only true if the high voltage system is lower power.

But the fact is, if you want 100kW from a 25kWh battery, you need 4C batteries, plus enough to cover what you lose to sag. It doesn't matter if it's a high voltage system, a low voltage system, or something in between. And, by the way, the battery sag is unchanged regardless of the system voltage, for any given battery size and type.

Ideally, we would use a kW/kWh rating instead of C rating. This would explicitly include sag, and would be more intuitive. But we are stuck with current ratings.


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## Karter2 (Nov 17, 2011)

Hollie Maea said:


> Ideally, we would use a kW/kWh rating instead of C rating. This would explicitly include sag, and would be more intuitive. But we are stuck with current ratings.


 some cell specifications do state a kW/kg figure, which is esentially the same information as the base data of weight , Ahr and voltage are all stated also.
in the case of the Leaf cell that figure is quoted at 2.5 kW/kg
http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/?title=Battery_specs
Cell weight is 799gms
nom voltage 3.8 v
nom capacity 33Ahr

Which would imply a kWhr/kW figure of 16.02 ! for the Leaf cell.

What that might mean for cycle life though,.. can only be guessed !


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## Fatt Vette (Oct 31, 2011)

onegreenev said:


> I am pulling the trigger on two packs for $6k with a 2 year guarantee. They will be here by 9am tomorrow.



That is a good price.
I need to buy more modules, can you share who your vendor is?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

I will after I get mine here today.


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## sportcoupe (Oct 19, 2010)

onegreenev said:


> I am pulling the trigger on two packs for $6k with a 2 year guarantee. They will be here by 9am tomorrow.


Define your "packs" you are getting. A full leaf battery pack is 48 modules. Are you getting 96 modules? Or are you getting two "blocks" of 24 modules?

http://hybridautocenter.com/HAC4/in...&cid=14&name=nissan-leaf-batteries&Itemid=605


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

96 modules. Two full packs worth. Or a total of 48kWh.


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## sportcoupe (Oct 19, 2010)

That is an excellent deal. Do you need all 96 modules?


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## Bronoco (Jul 25, 2014)

Would anyone recommend using 2 modules from a leaf for something like a 71 ford bronco? i am very new to the world of EV conversions, but i would like to attempt one in the near future.


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## rochesterricer (Jan 5, 2011)

Were you quoted a shipping weight? I'd love to know the module weight of two packs. Every time I see the weight of the Leaf pack quoted it includes everything, like the steel protection structure.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Modules are here. 96 total modules. Enough for two packs. 48kWh worth of cells. Awesome. 

A couple extra modules were given for me to dissect and see how these packs are connected internally. Interesting stuff these modules. Not so easy to get apart without destroying the cells within. The cells are glued together as well to prevent movement.


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Bronoco said:


> Would anyone recommend using 2 modules from a leaf for something like a 71 ford bronco? i am very new to the world of EV conversions, but i would like to attempt one in the near future.


You mean two packs? That would be 96 modules or 48 kwh of batteries. This should be enough to give a nicely converted Bronco an estimated max range of 120 miles and a reasonable range of around 100 miles. (Based on a finished weight of 4000 lbs)

I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work. You must like Broncos a lot to want to convert one.


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

onegreenev said:


> A couple extra modules were given for me to dissect and see how these packs are connected internally. Interesting stuff these modules. Not so easy to get apart without destroying the cells within. The cells are glued together as well to prevent movement.


Pete, There is a video on youtube showing how to dismantle one without destroying the pouches.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Well, yea! Sorta. Just a quick look you better have some real patient hands. Not an easy feat. So best to leave the modules alone.


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## rochesterricer (Jan 5, 2011)

Do you have a total weight for the 96 modules(two Leaf packs worth)?


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

I missed that link, for Leaf cells? That may convince me to upgrade from thundersky. I can hit them for 7.5C (450 amps) as they have a little less than 1.6 mOhms internal resistance when warm. 

The large Leaf pack block could be cut down by 2 cells while retaining the hold down system. It could then be layed on its side in my existing battery rack. It would weigh less than my current pack (195 lb.) and offer more voltage and capacity.


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## Fatt Vette (Oct 31, 2011)

rochesterricer said:


> Do you have a total weight for the 96 modules(two Leaf packs worth)?


My 10 module pack weighs 85 lbs, that is 8.5 lbs. per module. 96 modules would weigh around 820 lbs.


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## rochesterricer (Jan 5, 2011)

Fatt Vette said:


> My 10 module pack weighs 85 lbs, that is 8.5 lbs. per module. 96 modules would weigh around 820 lbs.


Thank you


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## alexcrouse (Mar 16, 2009)

So Nissan dealers have the cells now? Can you buy 1 at a time? Or do you need to buy a full pack? Also, the "required" core charge: Does that mean they arn't going to sell packs unless i trade one in?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

alexcrouse said:


> So Nissan dealers have the cells now? Can you buy 1 at a time? Or do you need to buy a full pack? Also, the "required" core charge: Does that mean they arn't going to sell packs unless i trade one in?


Correct. No single modules to private people. If I want a new one from Nissan I must turn in my current pack.


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## alexcrouse (Mar 16, 2009)

onegreenev said:


> Correct. No single modules to private people. If I want a new one from Nissan I must turn in my current pack.


Sometimes i really hate car companies lol.


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## Fatt Vette (Oct 31, 2011)

onegreenev said:


> Correct. No single modules to private people. If I want a new one from Nissan I must turn in my current pack.


Not from Nissan, but this is where I purchased mine:

http://hybridautocenter.com/HAC4/in...4&name=lithium-batteries-and-packs&Itemid=605


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## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

Fatt Vette said:


> Not from Nissan, but this is where I purchased mine:
> 
> http://hybridautocenter.com/HAC4/in...4&name=lithium-batteries-and-packs&Itemid=605


You would think a company selling batteries could spend the few minutes it takes to figure out the difference between kWh and kW/h.


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## steven4601 (Nov 11, 2010)

Seriously, its kWh, for energy that is. kW/h is a typo that is sadly copied too often.


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## graemepye (Mar 7, 2014)

Does anyone have or know where I can get MSDS for Leaf batteries?
I can't find it online.
thanks
Graeme


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## sportcoupe (Oct 19, 2010)

graemepye said:


> Does anyone have or know where I can get MSDS for Leaf batteries?
> I can't find it online.
> thanks
> Graeme


Link here for all Nissan MSDS's
http://www.findmymsds.com/nissan/nissan.html

Battery Module
http://www.findmymsds.com/nissan/pdfs/295B9-3NA9A-E.pdf

Battery Pack
http://www.findmymsds.com/nissan/pdfs/295B0-3NA9B-E.pdf


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## graemepye (Mar 7, 2014)

Thank you very much for this.
Graeme


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## MitchJi (Dec 14, 2007)

Hi,

I am concerned about your use of the bare modules. On the ES thread, was pretty well established that the LEAF subpacks apply some pressure to the modules. Either actual compression, or at least enough pressure to prevent the pouches from puffing.


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## graemepye (Mar 7, 2014)

Thanks for your reply Mitch
Can you send me a link to the posts about appling pressure to the modules please?
Actually I intend installing the modules in packs and they will need both suitable containment and restraint. So I will make up a modular rack of some sort.

Cheers
Graeme


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

MitchJi said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am concerned about your use of the bare modules. On the ES thread, was pretty well established that the LEAF subpacks apply some pressure to the modules. Either actual compression, or at least enough pressure to prevent the pouches from puffing.


Pouches can still puff even if contained. But I agree that you should use the containment components to keep them tight together. It does not prevent puffing if damaged. Containment prevents movement and secures the modules safely.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Decided to check my leaf module today. The one I charged last week as a split pack. Each side was charged to 4.2 volts. That would be 8.4 volts total then held to c/20 then terminate. I checked total voltage of the module for 8.3 volts and each side was at 4.15 which equally adds up to 8.3 volts. So after resting they do settle a tiny bit. Not nearly as much as a LiFePO4 cell settles after a charge. So a resting voltage of 8.3 volts it is. This is good. They are more voltage stable after a charge and settle only a bit. 

Thought you would all like to know. I feel quite fine charging a module to 8.4 volts then allowing to settle to 8.3 volts. Or 4.15 volts per half. Well within the range of these cells. 

Pete


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## tga (Sep 7, 2014)

Fatt Vette said:


> That is a good price.
> I need to buy more modules, can you share who your vendor is?





onegreenev said:


> I will after I get mine here today.


You never posted your vendor info?


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I thought it was better to charge these to 4.05V or 8.1V, because the 0.15V won't do you much good, and there is greater wear and tear on the battery. What have you found out by actually using them?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

8.2 or 8.25 is absolute max. 8.2 is best. That means 4.1. Yes that extra is usable. If you want to go to 8.3 volts you can and still be safe. If you know you don't need the full charge then 8.2 is best. 

I do have a Leaf I drive every day. Leaf modules are great. I'd say even better than Tesla cells. I still like the LiFePO4 chemistry of cells. But for my Bus I will be doing a big Leaf Pack. Im going to be getting an extra 12 modules to add to my 96. I will have it set for a 120 volt system.


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## favguy (May 2, 2008)

Just for reference, When charging my modules at C/10 I'm seeing 8Ah between 4.05v and 4.16v on my modules, so assuming nominal 60Ah per module, you are missing out on 13.33% capacity by doing this. I think it's pretty safe to go to 4.15v-4.16v per cell. Here I measure less than 1Ah between 4.15v & 4.2v.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I looked into my reasoning for staying at 4.05V some more, and it turns out that it is because my controller doesn't like going over 130V. Does anybody know what happens to Curtis/HPEVS controller and motors if the 16 leaf batteries I have in series go over the 130V limit? It is supposed to be for 96V, with 120V being the top range, and 130V being the upper limit. I'm not sure what happens at 134.4V (4.2V). And how much do the batteries sag when under load, and is that voltage more important than the resting voltage?

Or is there some voltage regulator that can handle 600A and not waste too much power...Does the voltage get reduced any when it goes through the main contactor?

Not that most of my trips would even come close to using 30% of the battery, but it would be good to know.


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## 67BGTEV (Nov 1, 2013)

Controller throws error code and you can't drive until you feed lower voltage and restart the controller.


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## 67BGTEV (Nov 1, 2013)

Do you have 1238r-7601?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

favguy said:


> Just for reference, When charging my modules at C/10 I'm seeing 8Ah between 4.05v and 4.16v on my modules, so assuming nominal 60Ah per module, you are missing out on 13.33% capacity by doing this. I think it's pretty safe to go to 4.15v-4.16v per cell. Here I measure less than 1Ah between 4.15v & 4.2v.


Yes, 4.15 is perfect. My results as well when looking at my Module charge graphs.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

67BGTEV said:


> Do you have 1238r-7601?


Yes, that is the one.

My next question is, would it be better to use only 15 of the batteries @ 4.15V x x 2 x 15 = 124.5V, but at more amp hours, compared to lower amp hours, higher voltage 129.4V. If I can only put in 52 Ah, it might be safer and better for the lifespan of the batteries, but you could have more energy available if you could put in 60 Ah for all 15 batteries.


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## 67BGTEV (Nov 1, 2013)

Caps18 said:


> Yes, that is the one.
> 
> My next question is, would it be better to use only 15 of the batteries @ 4.15V x x 2 x 15 = 124.5V, but at more amp hours, compared to lower amp hours, higher voltage 129.4V. If I can only put in 52 Ah, it might be safer and better for the lifespan of the batteries, but you could have more energy available if you could put in 60 Ah for all 15 batteries.


Running at higher Voltage will give you better torque. Its also better to have a system with lower current. 
If you can manage with slightly lesser range, I would go with charging to 4.05V which makes it slightly less than 130V


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## grip911 (Dec 14, 2011)

(1238-7601) Just remember when choosing how much voltage that you want to run, not to go over 130volts, and that includes the voltage on the regen cycle.
You can always turn regen off when you want to push the envelope(so to speak). The controller Will throw a fault over 130v and possible damage may occur.


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## Boxster-warp (Jun 22, 2014)

Hello
Is the Max voltage 4,05 or 4,0v better for the lifetime from the Leaf cells?
What is the minimum voltage.
Greetings Boxster-warp


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Boxster-warp said:


> Hello
> Is the Max voltage 4,05 or 4,0v better for the lifetime from the Leaf cells?
> What is the minimum voltage.
> Greetings Boxster-warp


With this kind of battery a resting voltage of 3.3 is pretty much empty. You generally have less than 5% SOC. They are essentially empty with a resting voltage of 3.0 vpc. On the top end they are considered completely full at 4.20 volts. If you charge to 4.15 volts they will be at most about 90% SOC. If you charge to 4.10 volts the SOC will be about 83%. Charging to 4.05 volts the SOC will be at most about 78% Charging to 4.00 volts will result in a maximum SOC of about 75%.

I found these numbers using hobby type LiPo cells but they should be similar to the Leaf cells. When I was testing I was charging to that voltage and then the CV stage ended at a C/40 value. This means I was terminating at a much lower rate than you probably will and my SOC will therefore be a little higher than what you will see.

If they were my batteries I would charge to somewhere between 4.10 and 4.15 volts and never run them too far down.

Best Wishes!


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## Boxster-warp (Jun 22, 2014)

Hello
Thank you very much.
I want 28 Module from the nissan leaf.
I buy a Zivan NG7 and the Must Programming the Max voltage.
When the Dealer Programming Max voltage 231v then One cell have 4,125v.

Is this better When the Charger come too the Ende voltage or is this better When the BMS stop the Charger?
I can Programming the bms too 231v and the Charger too 235v.

What is the better Way?

Greetings Greenboxster


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Boxster-warp said:


> Is this better When the Charger come too the Ende voltage or is this better When the BMS stop the Charger?
> I can Programming the bms too 231v and the Charger too 235v.
> 
> What is the better Way?


I would have the charger be the principal method for stopping the charge. It is a simpler device with less things to go wrong. It only cares about the one voltage reading. Check these things with your own meter. A 1% error is 2.3 volts. A 5% error is 11.6 volts. It would be pretty easy for there to be errors of this scale in the measurement circuits in these things.


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## Boxster-warp (Jun 22, 2014)

Hello
Yes thats safer and better When the Charger stop the charging and not the BMS.

The Problem with my conversion is the wheigt from the batterypack.
I dont Knows of 28x2 leaf Modulen from the wheigt ok, or too much.
Then i Must Build the batterypack with 27x2 leaf module.

I Programming fore 28 Module and When the wheigt too much then i Must send too the Dealer and Programming too the 27 Module.

Thank you for the answer and sorry for my bad english.
Greetings Greenboxster


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

67BGTEV said:


> Running at higher Voltage will give you better torque. Its also better to have a system with lower current.
> If you can manage with slightly lesser range, I would go with charging to 4.05V which makes it slightly less than 130V





dougingraham said:


> I would have the charger be the principal method for stopping the charge. It is a simpler device with less things to go wrong. It only cares about the one voltage reading. Check these things with your own meter. A 1% error is 2.3 volts. A 5% error is 11.6 volts. It would be pretty easy for there to be errors of this scale in the measurement circuits in these things.


I didn't factor in any reading error. And I'm pretty sure you need to have a higher voltage when charging, (right?). I don't want to come close to hitting the 130V limit on my controller and have any problems that I am worried about now. With 80% full being at 129.6V and all.

So, I think the best solution is to either buy 8 or 12 more battery cells, and wire up one or two from each of the three packs I currently have to make 4 packs, but at a lower voltage. I would hope that having one pack with longer wires in between the cells wouldn't impact it charge level compared to the others.

But, I'm not sure what the regen voltage will be coming out of the controller, and what voltage I will be able to run the charger at. (It has been a long while since I looked at the documentation for both of those, but it is my next step)

If I add 8 more cells, it would be running at 117.6V @4.2V per cell (if I needed to take a long trip), and 126 V @ 4.2V if I added 12 more cells. I think that charge voltage might be too close to 130V however, or I'm not sure about how accurate these readings are. I would hope they would be more accurate than 1% though.


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## benjylafond (Apr 22, 2014)

Do you have any single modules for sale?

E-mail me at [email protected].

Thanks


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## bonewibb (Aug 30, 2009)

Are you planning on splitting the 48 modules into multiple packs of 24 each?


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I'm actually going to have 4 packs of 14 cells each. And then if they get charged to 4.18-4.20V it would work out as 117V-117.6V(I would probably use 4.18V just for safety). And with 4 packs at 60-65Ah each (117V x 240 Ah = 28 kWh), that is a good amount of power to be able to use .


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## 67BGTEV (Nov 1, 2013)

I wouldn't go beyond 4.1v. Even Nissan doesn't go beyond 4.1. Be careful, you may degrade the capacity sooner than you think.
I'm charging to 4.06. I may go to 4.0625. Running my controller at 129.6v. Charging to 518v


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

67BGTEV said:


> I wouldn't go beyond 4.1v. Even Nissan doesn't go beyond 4.1. Be careful, you may degrade the capacity sooner than you think.
> I'm charging to 4.06. I may go to 4.0625. Running my controller at 129.6v. Charging to 518v


So basically charge to 4 volts. It seems like a good idea. I'll keep it in mind when I get mine going.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

It depends on where I need to go. If I am just going around town, then yes, I agree that I will be in the 4.1V range (8.2V per cell). I do want to take care of these batteries so they last a long time.


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## Kyle (Apr 28, 2015)

onegreenev said:


> Decided to check my leaf module today. The one I charged last week as a split pack. Each side was charged to 4.2 volts. That would be 8.4 volts total then held to c/20 then terminate. I checked total voltage of the module for 8.3 volts and each side was at 4.15 which equally adds up to 8.3 volts. So after resting they do settle a tiny bit. Not nearly as much as a LiFePO4 cell settles after a charge. So a resting voltage of 8.3 volts it is. This is good. They are more voltage stable after a charge and settle only a bit.
> 
> Thought you would all like to know. I feel quite fine charging a module to 8.4 volts then allowing to settle to 8.3 volts. Or 4.15 volts per half. Well within the range of these cells.
> 
> Pete



This entire thread has been a wealth of information. Thanks to all who posted. I have 2 questions which may be a bit remedial.

1. Does it hurt the battery's to use them before they have settled?

2. When under load, like driving up hill, does it damage the cell if it drops below safe low volt limit for a few moments and then bounces back to the safe range when on level ground or at rest?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Kyle said:


> This entire thread has been a wealth of information. Thanks to all who posted. I have 2 questions which may be a bit remedial.
> 
> 1. Does it hurt the battery's to use them before they have settled?
> 
> 2. When under load, like driving up hill, does it damage the cell if it drops below safe low volt limit for a few moments and then bounces back to the safe range when on level ground or at rest?


Kyle,

Lithium batteries are such magical little things. It will not hurt them to use them before they settle after a charge. You can charge them up the go. I do it all the time. As for going below a safe low volt level while under heavy current is not unheard of because they are actually not below the safe limit. There should be something setup to prevent you from going below a specified voltage no matter what. My DC controller will allow this. So no matter how hard I try I will never ever go below a specified voltage. It is one of the best safety devices I know about. The current will just keep dropping and will actually shut off before I reach that level.

Anyway, no you won't hurt your cells if you go low during heavy acceleration and current draw. Some types of batteries sag more than others. The less the sag the better but under load its not as much of an issue. If you have no way to know if your below your safe limit STATIC then you could be in trouble at some point. You do need a way to monitor the pack. My controller does a bang up job of that. 

Pete


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Onegreen

Where did you get your cells?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Duncan said:


> Hi Onegreen
> 
> Where did you get your cells?


I got mine from a guy selling low mileage used from wrecked Leafs. I purchased two packs for 48kWh worth of modules. I need to bump up the voltage on about twenty so I can bottom balance them with my other modules. Then I'll be done and can start putting them together into a 96 volt pack. 

Pete 

PS: The modules were delivered in person. No shipping company was used.


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## nimblemotors (Oct 1, 2010)

Duncan said:


> Hi Onegreen
> 
> Where did you get your cells?


from 'a guy'


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

nimblemotors said:


> from 'a guy'


Yeah. From a guy. The company is as far as I know, no longer selling modules. My modules are fine. So no need to provide any information. A guy is good enough.


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## pgt400 (Jul 12, 2008)

You can get them from HybridAuto in Vegas. You have to wait till he gets a wrecked Leaf in....he has some NOW, I know because I just bought some. Phil


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

pgt400 said:


> You can get them from HybridAuto in Vegas. You have to wait till he gets a wrecked Leaf in....he has some NOW, I know because I just bought some. Phil


Yes, I had thought they fell off the face of the earth and gave up on them. They contacted me about getting some more. I have my order in again.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

That is where I purchased my 8 new cells from last month.


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## winzeracer (Apr 3, 2012)

Does anyone have a 3d model of the Leaf Cell yet?


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## Boxster-warp (Jun 22, 2014)

Helle
Are 219v for 27 Leaf batterys good?
Greetings Boxster-Warp


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## winzeracer (Apr 3, 2012)

219volt/27modules/2cells per module= 4.05v per cell. The short answer is yes, there are no dead cells. However, thier capacity is still unknown. How many miles were on the donor vehicle?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Boxster-warp (Jun 22, 2014)

Hello
Thanks for answer.
The batterys have 45.000 km on it.
Greetings Greenboxster


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## winzeracer (Apr 3, 2012)

Boxster-warp said:


> Hello
> Thanks for answer.
> The batterys have 45.000 km on it.
> Greetings Greenboxster


Probably ok. http://livingleaf.info/2015/05/lets-talk-about-battery-degradation/ But you would need to capacity test them to be sure.

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## winzeracer (Apr 3, 2012)

And if you are going to work with them you need to read lots about them. It is clear that you haven't yet done your homework 

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