# Delta-Q 1 kW Battery Charger / DC-DC Converter



## bwjunkie (Jul 31, 2013)

I don't really know all the answers to these questions, but I'll comment anyway.

Firstly (and it sounds like you have this worked out with the contactor) the spark should never happen, since you should never "be connecting" a live traction pack to anything, it sounds a little dangerous just saying.

As to the load question, you might want to clarify if your system has a 12v battery, this will probably help someone answer this question.

Josh M


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## Elanimal28 (Nov 18, 2013)

bwjunkie said:


> I don't really know all the answers to these questions, but I'll comment anyway.
> 
> Firstly (and it sounds like you have this worked out with the contactor) the spark should never happen, since you should never "be connecting" a live traction pack to anything, it sounds a little dangerous just saying.
> 
> ...


Originally I had planned to use a small motorcycle battery but I was told that I didn't need one because the dc-dc can handle the load alone.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

1) The spark is fine, and it can and will happen. Its just charging the CAPS. If you want, you can "precharge" using a resistor similar to what you'd use for a controller to precharge the caps before connecting. It only happens the first time you plug in the DC-DC.

2) You should be fine having a load on the output side, but I'd absolutely recommend using the SWITCHED OUTPUT of the DC-DC. Turn on/off using a relay or key, and the output goes on/off. There IS an ALWAYS ON on the DC-DC, which should really only be used for any key-on-enable circuits, or for BMS. I wouldn't wire any other "accessories" to the ALWAYS ON output.

The DC-DC uses very little power connected to the traction pack, unless there is a lot on the ALWAYS ON output of the DC-DC.


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## Elanimal28 (Nov 18, 2013)

I read the installation instructions but I don’t understand how to switch the dc-dc on for the blue connector. I test the Red plug and it has constant 13.5 but how do you switch the blue connector on. Is it that I’m supposed to wire a relay to the always on (red plug) so I can power the rest of my accessories? I was under the impression that the blue output plug can be switch on and off.

I was afraid that the dc-dc would drain the battery pack if I don’t plug it in overnight but I guess I can try it first and see what happens.

By the way, does anyone have the red ,blue, white and black connectors for sale?


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Those are called Anderson connectors, they're pretty easy to find online.

PLEASE, PLEASE Stop what you're doing for a minute. Just connecting things when you don't really understand is going to cause you issues. I've been answering all of your questions, but you seem to rather go to the forum, when you should really be talking to someone like me who has experience with them. I hope you haven't fried the charger by connecting it incorrectly.


As far as switching input on/off, you're incorrect.
BLUE is an INPUT used to ENABLE/DISABLE the WHITE SWITCHED OUTPUT
WHITE is SWITCHED OUTPUT (Wire accessories here)
RED is UNSWITCHED OUTPUT (Wire always-on devices here)

To ENABLE the output of the WHITE SWITCHED OUTPUT, connect the BLUE connector to the RED connector.


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## Elanimal28 (Nov 18, 2013)

frodus said:


> Those are called Anderson connectors, they're pretty easy to find online.
> 
> PLEASE, PLEASE Stop what you're doing for a minute. Just connecting things when you don't really understand is going to cause you issues. I've been answering all of your questions, but you seem to rather go to the forum, when you should really be talking to someone like me who has experience with them. I hope you haven't fried the charger by connecting it incorrectly.
> 
> .


 
Travis I'm so grateful for the help you have given me. I haven’t fried it yet. It is still connected the way you instructed me on the e-mails. I was wondering about all that stuff previously stated and figured that maybe someone might have the same concerns as me and they would share their experience or learn from mine. 
I appreciate your patience and everyone else who puts up with newbies like me.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

I have direct contact with DeltaQ and can pretty much get the help we both need to get you on the road!


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## miev 1 (Jan 22, 2015)

frodus said:


> 1) ....
> The DC-DC uses very little power connected to the traction pack, unless there is a lot on the ALWAYS ON output of the DC-DC.


I know an older thread, but sounds like someone knows what they are talking about. In light of the connection wires for the dc/dc converter, I would ask how much power does a normal car take? (lights, bells, radio, headlights, interior lights etc., but excluding hvac of course) 

I am just wondering if excluding a lot of that fluff in both power and weight would do much to increase range.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

The DeltaQ has a 400W DC-DC, but I'll make this generic:

Lets say for instance you're running 32 cells in series lifepo4, for around 100V, and a 600W of 12V accessories from a DC-DC. Lets say the dc-dc is 90% efficient, then you'd need to solve x * 0.90 = 600W, so x is about 667W. At 100V, that's about 6.7A at the battery. If you shaved 100W off the 12V load, it would only be about an amp or so off the battery side..... the batteries will not likely notice much difference.


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## miev 1 (Jan 22, 2015)

Thanks for the calcs. That's what I thought, as in the real world the car seems to not notice the small items, but shudders when you turn on the hvac!

The heated seats and rear defrost are great, but in Chicago in the winter even I have to turn the heat on a little bit. I might skip the a/c for my future build(roll down window) but will have to have some kind of heat.


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