# Blade revamp



## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Found a spot for 10A DC-DC regulator and mounted it:



















2 outsade frame modules will be mouted here:



















Cu Al for the boxes and argon ran out


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Will be setting up this bike with eScan ignition (in the works):






I will make so power button engages precharge and DC-DC and scanning fingerprint will engage coil on the contactor.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Had a good progress yesterday/today. Made battery boxes. Made enclosure for fingerprint ignition. Also mounts for the outside frame battery module:
















































I think i will need to lower the motor. Not enough space for large battery module.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

agniusm said:


> I think i will need to lower the motor. Not enough space for large battery module.


 If you want more battery space, put the motor on the swing arm still with the belt but move the shock.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Nah, it would ruin it. It will be enough to lower it a bit and it will be inside suspension zone as it is rather than bang about on the fork + visually it would look like crap. I will have 3.5kW and that will suffice. Just need to make some clearance to squeeze the box in and i'm good.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Have reworked motor mount to lower the motor to allow more battery space:









Now I need to take off the pulley but I dont know how. Does any one knows how to proceed?


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

agniusm said:


> Now I need to take off the pulley but I dont know how. Does any one knows how to proceed?


Cant see but you should find 2 grub screws in the holes that are 180 degrees apart.
Maybe a 3mm allen key.
remove both of them and put one back in the 3rd hole that is 90 degrees apart. Tightening it unlocks the taper.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Yes, thank you. I have found a manual on the net. Will try tomorrow


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Got the pulley off, preliminary fitting of the main battery box:


























Had to cut into top tube to allow some more space to fit the battery:










Started to work on a battery web:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Bottom motor guard made:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Progress:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)




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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Progress:










Batteries mostly finished:























































Test drive:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Lights:


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## samwichse (Jan 28, 2012)

Is the performance similar to stock or are you pushing more power to it with the stouter cells?


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

I have not tried stock. I bought this bike without front fork and batteries. I have fairly larger pack now, 60ah instead of 16.4. The controller is stock 48v.


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## kingr (Dec 5, 2014)

very good build so far. Impressed with the fingerprint ignition , is it working yet ?

Subscribed.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

fingerprint ignition was tested but not with the actual contactor.
Made pcb for all the connections. Throttle speed limit, precharge, dcdc, lights, fingerprint scanner, contactor controll, controller ignition. Saves a lot of wire web, now just need to test it


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Mudguards:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

I have now a working setup for my finger scanner ignition and speed limiting and can share the results and joy:






Here is a diagram of things i have connected:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Cardboard modeling:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Continued on aluminium. Getting better at welding it. Happy how its turning out:




























Some forced venting for motor:


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

That's impressive bodywork. Well done


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Have done second side panel for the bike. Now only front remains:









Also today received couple of water jetted sprockets:










I dont know why, but it has some cone to it. Perhaps they went too fast???


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## Old.DSMer (May 18, 2012)

In the fabrication industry, we call it curf. And yes, the cut speed was probably a bit fast. Looks like approximately 3/8" material, correct? That thickness with water jet, you should be able to get within 0.02" easily. However, most shops will not use that accuracy unless you specify minimum curf on your drawing. I imagine you will be getting new ones cut?

And nice fab work btw. Those lines complement the bike nicely!


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

The material is 4mm stainless steel or 0.16" or 3/16" if converter is right.
I have not measured the curf but by the looks it is 0.3mm + 0.3mm or 0.02" (bottom diameter is 0.6mm or 0.02" larger than top side). I will measure it exactly tomorrow.

P. S. Just measured with the ruler and if im not wrong it could be within 0.2mm +0.2mm or 0.4mm difference in diameter


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## Old.DSMer (May 18, 2012)

Only 3/16? Wow, you should be able to get 0.005-0.010 easily. Possibly better depending on the condition of their equipment. If they can't do it, I would suggest laser.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

I don't mean to be harsh but those sprockets are headed straight for the recycle bin, don't worry my first sprockets looked even worse.

You need to change everything about them. Material, design, cutting method and probably thickness.

First start with mild steel and then temper them after you have checked them and chamfered the teeth.
Stainless steel is crap for sprockets, not strong enough.

Second the tooth design has too steep a ramp and not a broad enough
tooth head. This sprocket will jump the chain under load.

Third, laser cut them or better CNC mill.

Fourth measure the inside dimension of the chain between the link plates and choose a thickness of steel that is just under.

Before you throw these in the bin, lay the chain all the way around the sprocket and see if it rides up the teeth.
Then email me the drawing you sent to the water cutter and I will draw a new tooth profile for you in Inventor (parametric).

PS. are these for the primary or secondary drive ie are you replacing the belt ?


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

RIPPERTON said:


> I don't mean to be harsh but those sprockets are headed straight for the recycle bin, don't worry my first sprockets looked even worse.
> 
> You need to change everything about them. Material, design, cutting method and probably thickness.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips, they are good info.
The sprocket is a rear sprocket. The way i chose is that existing sprocket is from stainless (OEM). I have downloaded a CAD drawing of my existing sprocket (54T), printed it out to see if it matched the one i have and it did, so i went and got the drawings for 28T and 34T. The only thing i drew was center hole and mounting holes. The inside of the chain is 4.6mm and my sprockets made out of 4mm. I could not get other material thickness here.
Regarding mild steel. I thought it is not possible to temper mild steel? Perhaps tool steel? (any standards to suggest?)
My sprocket drawings are here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B56NVZIdTBFOVV9DbVdmRUNxdHM/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B56NVZIdTBFOR3d3TUtLaHJyRjQ/view?usp=sharing

Thank you


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Yep MS doesn't have enough carbon to temper so leave it untempered.
I'ld use 7075T6 but theres more machining, you would need a lathe.
I looked at the DWG and it is bloody woefull. Who would put shit like that on the net.
Il draw you some new 28T and 34T ones and you can put the center holes in it.
BRB


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

cant attach so will need your email.
Its save as 2004DWG


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Thanks a lot mate for such a swoft help. My email is agniusmk at gmail dot com
BTW the drawing was from traceparts.com.
I am just surprized that original electricmoto blade sprocket matched the one from the website.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Sent
Did you wrap the chain around the new sprockets to see if it rides up?
take a photo


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Will do. My workshop is away from home so i'll post later. Thanks again.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

You will have to double check the chains roller diameter.
The sprockets are drawn for standard 428 chain 12.7 pitch.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Got some photos:
this is original sprocket:








New on top of the old one:








The chain sits on the new sprocket:








Tested it on the bike. Most of the power is lost. It could be due to the fact that the battery was almost empty sitting at 31V. It was drawing 100A max so i assumed that the battery was bottlenecking. Left it to charge so i can test it again to see if i have to arrange larger sprocket. No load speed was 67kmh


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Yeah see the second pic the new sprocket has much shallower ramps.
The old sprocket has taller teeth and they arent sharp.
My design has even steeper ramps than the old sprocket.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

I see what you mean. You live and you learn, most impotantly to ask before make  I will test mote and decide what next sprocket to make.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

As it turns out Agniusm has Inventor 2014 on his pc so I just sent him the ipt files of the sprockets and he can draw other ones with any number of teeth.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Yes, you were very helpful and i appreciate it a lot mate. Now i need to charge up my pack and test it again to see if i need to increase number of teeth.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Done new junction PCB. 




































Have added a pot to CAR1248 psu, reduced voltage to 42V:


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## QuietCar (Jan 3, 2013)

If you make the sprockets out of 1010 or 1020 carbon steel, you can simply case harden them after cutting (or any time there after).

If you are using a decent machine shop, they will be familiar with the steels and even have a shop favorite they usually work with. Ask their advice.

If you supply the material, get what is known as "D2" Tool steel. D2 has high wear resistance, good toughness, and low distortion. It is often chosen when long tool life is required. Perfect for sprockets.

You might even reverse engineer it and find a heat treater, call and ask them what they would use. Have it cut out, then send to them for finish heat treating. (which is what I always did.)

QC


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Thanks for advice. The trick is to find a material that is available and best suitable  There's not many steels you can choose from, mainly mild steels and SS. For example the US popular chromoly 42CrMo4 rarer than gold here. All i could find is D30mm round bar 
I could get sheets in many sizes S235, S355, DC01 easy. Thats the main problem i am facing.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

I have tested the bike with a smaller sprocket. Top speed arround 63kph. I will leave it at that at the moment.
Have done front panel, still need some curve to it but its getting there:




























I have tested again why I get negative on the frame. There is no continuity between controller terminals and chassis, contactor terminals and chassis, motor terminals and chassis. When I connect a battery to controller only, there is no voltage between battery positive and chassis. When I connect controller to the motor I get negative on the chassis and see full pack voltage between battery positive and chassis. Any insides on this?


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Some more CAD


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Your controller may be a non-isolated design. They are cheaper and easier to make than an isolated design. With everything hooked-up, try electrically isolating the controller from the chassis and check again for pack voltage between the chassis and B+. Then check between the controller body and B+.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

I have done that, i think i described in earlier post. When everything is connected except the motor there is no negative leakage to the frame. As soon as i connect ether terminal or both to the motor i get pack voltage between chassis and battery pack +. I got some info on ES that some Agni motors had fault shorting axle.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Have done last bit. Needs some final cleaning and off to the painters:



















It has some practical purpose too:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

I got the motor apart. Easy enough when you know how to do it, took me some time but its good. Will change bearings while I am at it. Sandblasted the casing to refresh the look, blew out the dust and iron flakes with compressed air.
































































After some clean up:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Motor is done. Got some weight off of the pulley:



















Filter for motor cooling


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

So its finally painted. Final assembly begins:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Wiring begins:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

More wiring:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

BMS harness done:










Still waiting on BMS unit. 
Got most of the wiring done. 2 faults. One with fingerprint scanner/main switch, contactor is engaged on activation of main switch. Second with throttle. Found the fault with the throttle, on my new PCB i have used 3 connector pins out of four. One common, the other that goes through limited speed adjustment pot. Some more troubleshooting, not long, not long at all 

Also set out new drawings (thanks to Danny R.) to sprocket gear manufacturers.
This time 38T:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

All assembled. Couple days for bms to arrive:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

First test drive:


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Made charger to be hanged on the wall:



















Tested the range, its 42km off road/on road combined, with half kilometer at limited speed reserve. Good enough.


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

agniusm said:


> Tested the range, its 42km off road/on road combined, with half kilometer at limited speed reserve. Good enough.


Damn that's good, well done.
Now you can take on Stealth in the Urban Assault Vehicle market.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Thanks Danny, means lots. My brother is happy but now I want one for myself Me needs to tinker something out


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Doing battery upgrade, 10s to 12s. Should increase top speed to 72kmh from 60kmh and power from 11.1kw to 13.3kw


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

So 6 modules slipped right in snug and comfy 










Will redo balancing wireloom and main terminals. I will use 20mm round copper bar, one end threaded to suit the module and the other to suit fuse box, M8 and they will protrude the lid for easy inspection.

I wander whats the total mileage will be with aditional 500wh


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## RIPPERTON (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi Agniusm
what cells are those, they look like Leaf cells taken apart.


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## agniusm (Apr 30, 2012)

Hi Danny. Yes, those are leaf cells taken apart. If all the brackets and casing is taken off, it is possible to fit 6 modules in the space of 5. Also saved weight on all the metal adds only 1kg to total weight. It was obvious upgrade as we had spare module, bus I bought with intention to up cell count. No expense other then time. Still need to top balance them before use cause SOC is unknown for the added cell and at 100ma bms would take decades to balance 65ah cell.


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