# What is the best controller and Why?



## strantor (Sep 4, 2011)

Looking for opinions here.
1. What it the best EV controller on the market, *period*?
Why is it the best?
What could be better about it?

2. What is the best EV controller on the market *for the money* (best value)?
Why is it the best?
What could be better about it?


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## Brute Force (Aug 28, 2010)

My vote for the best controller PERIOD is for the Soliton 1 from EVnetics.

Reasons:

1. Not just programmable, but EASILY programmable. If you have an Ethernet connection and a web browser, you can adjust the settings. Nobody else has that. You either have to spend more money to get a proprietary programmer or screw around with dead RS-232 technology.

2. No external heat sink. It works air cooled for light to medium duty applications or add plumbing to water cool it if needed. I race my dual controller/motor setup and have not found the need to water cool it (yet).

3. High power. REAL power, not "peak" or "boost".

4. Availability. Short lead times, if there is one. I bought mine off the shelf.

5. Ease of installation. It's a pre-engineered system in a single package. Look at other controllers and you'll find there are extra parts you need and a rats nest of wiring to get your EV on driving down the road.

6. Support. No other manufacturer spend as much time on this forum communicating with their market.

The only improvement I could suggest is automotive grade (weatherproof) low voltage connections.

I think it's also the best value. You can get cheaper, but your gambling on when you'll have to shell out more money to get a better controller. Spend your money once and enjoy instead of worry!


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

+2 I bought one also, same reasons, plus extremely good customer service.


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## rwaudio (May 22, 2008)

Best period, Soliton1 as above
Best value, SolitonJr includes all of the features of the Soliton1 with less power and cost.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

What is the best color to paint a car and why?

At the $2000 level you can push more voltage with a Soliton Jr. but you can push more amps at with a Zilla Z1k-LV. 

If you are planning a quarter mile assault then the baddest current offering is the Zilla Z2k-EHV. It's over $5000 and will dish out enough power to rip most drive trains apart.

If I was starting from scratch I would likely have picked a Soliton Jr. OTOH, I'm glad I have a Zilla Z1k because I like having the extra low end torque that the amps provide. I just dial up the motor amps and skip using 2nd gear.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

Depends what your definition of best is!

1a. If money were no object but time was an issue I would get the AC Propulsion AC system. It integrates the charger and the DC-DC in one big box, plus has that fatter torque curve and slightly better efficiency than series DC.

1b. If I had lots of time I'd build my own super sepex and AC and switched reluctance controllers and put them into 3 different cars.

2a. How about just a contactor? Simple, reliable, and 1/20 the cost of a controller of similar current capability. My 48V car was adequate as a city car with just a contactor (sepex motor would turn around 1600 rpm, shifted to change speeds). The controller I just installed is probably as much as 10 times better... but probably not 20 times as good, making the contactor the better buy.

2b. I then did a rheostat controller -- it wasn't all that far off of driving a gas car (high idle speed), did awesome regen, 1000+ Amps, 55 mph on 48 Volts, and a fraction of the cost of a silicon controller of similar capability. I abandoned the idea after seeing contactor life charts that showed the concept would not scale well to 100's of Volts, but would certainly do this again if all my driving was only at city speeds.

2c. Open revolt controller that you build yourself.

So anyway, you might want to narrow things a bit. Do you want freeway capable? Do you want off-the-shelf? Do you want one that has sold at least 100 units? How important is regen to you?


strantor said:


> Looking for opinions here.
> 1. What it the best EV controller on the market, *period*?
> Why is it the best?
> What could be better about it?
> ...


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## strantor (Sep 4, 2011)

Thanks for the input! yes, for "THE BEST, *period," *The idea was "money is no consequence" - what you would buy if you could afford anything. I'm not sure what I want; I'm just getting a feel for what's out there, and what's good. I one day want to build an EV with good highway speed and good efficiency. I was thinking the DC route would be more cost effective for me and more EV components I've found are DC so better availability I think.


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## Bowser330 (Jun 15, 2008)

If you will be satisfied with 1000A, then Soliton-1

If you are looking for extreme performance (>1000A), Zilla2K-EHV.


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## gregski (Sep 6, 2011)

this thread has lots of potential, can we tackle the second question, what about best bang for the buck, I don't have the answer because I only bought one controller so far but from my research I learned that you better be careful what you buy, because you can buy a $200 dollar used controller that you need a $750 dollar propriatery programmer for, ie Curtis brand

What do you guys have to say about the Alltrax AXE models?


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

It is a good question, but first you need to know how much bang you need. An Alltrax may be a good fit, but you are limited to 72 volts and 450 amps. That will get you a maximum of about 34 shaft horsepower from the motor. 

A good used Curtis 1221 or 1231 controller will get you 50 or 75 horsepower, but used means the price and availability is variable. These controllers need cooling help, a good heat sink and fan. 

I wouldn't pay the new price Curtis, instead opting for a Zilla Z1k-LV or Soliton Jr. (depending on if I wanted high current at a lower voltage or less current at a higher voltage.) Both can provide about 150 horsepower peak from a suitable motor. 

From this point up you are getting into larger controllers than I've played with. I do have a Zilla Z1k-HV, it could make about 270 shaft horsepower peak but I've never connected it to nearly enough voltage to make that kind of power. A Soliton 1 would make about the same power as its voltage and current ratings are about the same. You need 2 motors or 1 high voltage motor to take full advantage of the available power (most common EV motors will complain if fed over 150-190 volts.)

The bad boy of the EV races right now is the Zilla Z2k-EHV. It can take up to 360 volts and suck batteries dry at 2000 amps (at lower voltages, it self derates to 1800 battery amps at max voltage.) This can pretty much tear up most drivetrains and kill most common battery packs. If you are looking at this controller getting the most bang for the buck is likely not major concern -- you are looking for the most bang period.


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