# Motor Mount question



## Hollie Maea (Dec 9, 2009)

Rubber. Without isolation between the chassis and the mount, the mount will, over time, break.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Definitely rubber mount.

If you are using the transmission mated to the motor then try to replicate the original ICE mount position so that the trans is in the same position and angle for the drive shafts.


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## P.S.Mangelsdorf (Dec 1, 2014)

Woodsmith said:


> Definitely rubber mount.
> 
> If you are using the transmission mated to the motor then try to replicate the original ICE mount position so that the trans is in the same position and angle for the drive shafts.


Thank you,
Previous club members had removed the original mounts and welded over their original location so we will probably be making our own. we do have the transmission mounted up correctly however.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

The main role of the rubber mounts is to isolate noise and vibration from the ICE and transmission. Racers don't care about this and will use something like these to rigidly mount the engine:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Solid...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c62a3b1a5&vxp=mtr

Does the White Zombie use rubber mounts? If you're doing a lot of street driving, the rubber mounts might be worth it to reduce cabin noise.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

The IC engine's rubber mounts will be very soft to stop the low frequency "shake"
With an electric motor that is not a problem,
Rubber mounts are still needed but you can use real stiff ones

Nice stiff mountings mean that you can constrain the motor better - then you won't have the gear lever moving so much

Its easier to get everything nice and neat if you stiffen it up so it doesn't move as much


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Rather than listen to us pontificating smoke blowers, check on the ev album (http://www.evalbum.com/) for S-10 converters and email them for their suggestions. There's the noise factor. Also, from a design POV, maybe not having bulky mounts (rubber or other wise) would allow more room to fit batteries or other components on either side of the motor. 

Where did that smoke come from...?


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## Ivansgarage (Sep 3, 2011)

electro wrks said:


> Rather than listen to us pontificating smoke blowers,


I like that..

Here these shock mounts work really well and you can buy them every where. (cheap)
Just find a piece of pipe that fits the out side dia, insert bushing.
You can weld to the pipe, mounts to trans or motor. Then a tab on each side to frame.

Ivan


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

The smoke blowers are also forgetting steel motor mounts, engine chains, and front /rear motor -trannie plates. All that cool stuff to prevent motor walking in the compartment. Can you say solid mount or bent frame after tire hop?

Yup it's noisy, but with ear plugs, I can stand a lot for 30 second runs and back. I hate it when the motor comes loose on launch. At least a V8 won't twist itself into a knot when the mounts break.

My $0.02 YMMV


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

P.S.Mangelsdorf said:


> Thank you,
> Previous club members had removed the original mounts and welded over their original location so we will probably be making our own. we do have the transmission mounted up correctly however.


Ahhh, I missed the bit about it being a drag car.

You will need something that will hold the motor solidly and not let go in that case.

Sorry, as you were.


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## P.S.Mangelsdorf (Dec 1, 2014)

Thanks to all for the suggestions.
We are using a WarP 11 HV, the motor had been held in merely by the cradle that we are presuming came with it and the transmission.
Does anyone have a suggestion on a better way or place to attach motor mounts?


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

This is is the middle mount and adapter plate. I don't have a clear picture but the com end has a yoke that has a mount on each side similar to the middle.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I hard mounted my HPEVS AC-75 into my 96 S-10. I haven't turned it on yet to know if I should have went with the rubber mounts or not though. Back when I asked this question, I think I remember someone saying that the rubber wouldn't hold up with the torque over time.



















It wasn't made for the AC-75, but I made it work. It needed longer bolts, and to go over and under some of the rods. But, it is in there with only a little gap between the 'tubes' pointed upwards in the first picture and the 1/2" grade 9 bolts going through them.


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

I found a company that makes a fantastic DOM sleeve and bushing kit that allows you to make really your own custom motor mounts. These kits are being marketed in the 4x4 parts market, but I use them for motor mounts. Big ass poly bushings that will take a serious beating.










Here is a motor mount made with one of those kits











Here it is with the poly bushings installed.










and here it is in the car. The original mount bracket was removed by whoever did the original conversion, so the mount welded to the frame rail is specifically for this mount.


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