# Peugeot 205 EV



## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Hi

I think your parts list is good because you don't need high top speed with your small and lightweight car. 
Your needs are highly realistic and probably easily reachable.

First, you need to identify the exact Zapi controller model. You need to know the maximum voltage and amps of this one. If you have an 72v version, it will be just fine for your conversion and probably will can give you a top speed higher than 40 mph.

Second, you need to identify the capacity of your motor. 9 Kw is ok, but you need to know if it's the one hour rating. A good way to know that is to give us the dimensions and weight of your motor. For example, I have a 11" diameter x 15" long motor (200 lbs) rated 9.6 Kw at 48v for my Smart fortwo project and I think it can give me many more Kw at higher voltage and for short period of time. If the motor is more than 8" diameter and weight more than 100 lbs, it will do probably the job for your project.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

Yabert: Thanks for your reply. 

Regarding the details on the motor, towrite are not being very forthcoming with the data I have asked for.

Here is my post regarding the motor: DC Series Wound Motor removed from Towrite 200 Series Milk Float.

Here is my post regarding the controller: Please help identify this Electrofit Zapi Ltd High Frequency 48volt Controller.

Best Regards


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

This motor seem perfect if you can fit it under the hood!
Similare motor (like Warp Impulse 9) can move a small car to over 60 mph.

But to be sure of the capacity, please post picture of the motor. Brush area and the armature rear end will be essential.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

The motor weight is aprox 58KG's.

Here are some pictures of the motor in question.


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## madderscience (Jun 28, 2008)

that motor looks plenty beastly for a small car like the 205. Only things to keep in mind are what its safe maximum RPM is (if it came out of a 10-15mph top speed milk float, it may only be rated for 2000 or 3000 RPM or so. DC motors sold for EV conversions are usually good 5000 RPM stock. You may also want the ability to advance the brushes, especially if you decide to run a somewhat higher voltage system.

Your range and top speed needs are very doable. Still, I'd recommend at least a 72V system; at 72v you are still in golf cart and forklift territory and things are substantially cheaper than when you make the jump to 96v. at 72V, you should probably still be able to use everything except the controller and maybe the throttle pedal depending on what its interface mechanism is. 72V is 50% more power for the same amps vs a 48V system. 

As for batteries, 100AH lithium cells would make for a very lightweight battery pack. 24 of them at 8lbs or so each would make your entire battery pack in the same size and weight ballpark as a full gas tank. That pack would give 40+ miles range at 30 to 40mph and the 72V would probably allow a 50mph or so top speed, presuming the motor could handle the RPMs. Not sure what the cells go for in UK but here in the US such a battery pack would cost around $3K USD. 

You could stay with lead acid as well; six 12V golf cart batteries would work but would weigh over double what the lithium would and have about 20-25 miles usable range. Twelve, 6V golf cart batteries would give 30 to 40 miles usable range at those lower speeds, but would weigh about 3 times as much as the lithum pack.

Good luck.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Which island are you on?

That motor looks nice and should be fine for your needs.

If your controller was 48-72V upwards then you can set it up with 48v to see how it runs 'on the bench' so to speak and upgrade to 72v on the road if needed.

I have my tractor running on 4 Optima red tops found in a scrapyard. My trike will run on the same pack to prove working and get legal before I invest in lithium.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

I am down on the "Isle Of Wight".

Well it looks like the motor might be one of the following two.

ET 7,5/4,5/23-02 <Click for datasheet.
or
ET 7,5/4,5/23-05 <Click for datasheet.

Rated Power: 7,5kW.
Rated Voltage: 45V.
Rated Current: 198A.
Rated Speed: 2300min.
Operation Mode: S2-60min.
Excitation: Series.
Protection: IP 21.
Insulation: F. 


So using one of the following gearboxes.

Peugeot 205 1.8 Diesel Gearbox ratio's.
1st - 3.310.
2nd - 1.880.
3rd - 1.280.
4th - 0.970.
5th - 0.760.
FD - 3.470.

Peugeot 205 1.9 Petrol Gearbox ratio's.
1st - 2.920.
2nd - 1.850.
3rd - 1.360.
4th - 1.070.
5th - 0.870.
FD - 3.690.

And using stock tyre size of 185/55/R15

If I have worked it out right with the motor max speed of 2300RPM, I should be able to get the max road speed of:

49MPH with the 1.9 Petrol Box.
60MPH with the 1.8 Diesel Box.

Not that I need that kind of speed.


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## Yabert (Feb 7, 2010)

Hi

It's a nice Kostov motor!

So, like your calcul result, this motor will be perfect for your need.
But there are one important thing, 2300 rpm is the nominal speed of the motor. In fact, the max speed (before it self destruction) will probably be around 6000-10 000 rpm.

If you can select the 3e gear instead 5e gear to move your car at X speed, the motor will run 1.6-1.7 times faster (3700 rpm). 
The consequence will be the motor will produce the same power and draw less amps. Also, the fan will run faster and it improve the cooling capacity.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

Just a quick progress update. 

I now have brought my doner car, and it is a 1990 Peugeot 205 GRD 1.8 Diesel, It will be my daly driver unto I am fully ready to do the converion. 

Also today I was able to test my Zapi H2 Controller, and the Motor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pxRu1JyMWM

Just quickly testing forwards, backwards, and braking.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

Just a quick update, not alot has happend since my last post, been very busy with other things, and I don't have a garage so can only do work when the weather is nice. 

Anyway here is the progress so far.

I wanted to find a way of doing a mock install so that I don't have to take my current peugeot 205 off the road, and I just so happened to find another peugeot 205 that the cambelt had snaped on the engine for very little money. 

So the car was totaly striped down to the bear shell, and the front end cut off.

And this is what I was left with:









I then striped the engine down to the bear block, and refitted the engine block & gearbox to the standard mounting points:









When I 1st started this project I thought that things was going to be a tight fit with the electric motor, but I forgot how much room there is once eveything else has been taken out:

















The only current problem that I can see is the lower rear engine mount / drive shaft support:









I hope to be working on an adaptor plate soon so that I can bolt my motor to the gearbox.

Thats all so far.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

That is almost an ideal way to be making up your conversion!
When you are done with the conversion you can turn that front end into a BBQ!

I wish I could get a front end of my car to work on that way without risking taking my car off the road.


The drive shaft bearing shouldn't be a problem unless your motor is in the way. A bracket can be made that bolts the bearing to the motor, either to one of the existing bolts, to an extension of the motor mounting bracket at that end, or as a band clamped around the motor.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

As the weather has been nice for the last few days, I have make some more progress with the project.

Over the weekend I cut out a test motor to gearbox adaptor plate from 25mm thick mdf, and trial fitted it to an old gearbox bell housing.









All four of the gearbox bolt holes line up fine.

So it was time for a trial fit of the electric motor.









And at the start of the project I was so worried about how much clearance I would have from the end of the motor to the inner wing. 

As you can see I have loads of room to play with.

I then fitted the driveshaft without it's support.









As you can see the driveshaft is fully located into the gearbox, and clears the motor with ease.

Just a shame that the low mount / driveshaft support does not clear the motor. 

Oh well thats another thing I have to add to the list of parts to make. 

So all in all I am happy with the progress so far.


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## Ace_bridger (Nov 22, 2011)

Hi Mad P,

Your conversion looks nice and the parts you have are great! Congrats on finding that Towrite machine!

I'm 80-90% way through my Golf build and I just wanted to let you know that I am quite close to the island, not far from Lymington. My outlaws are over on the island and we're often over there as we have friends there too. We used to live in Cowes.

Feel free to drop me a line...I'll keep a close eye on your build.

Cheers,

Adam


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

I really can not decide if I am going to use a clutch and flywheel, or a shaft adaptor.

Here are a few more pictures.

























What are your thoughts on this?

Best Regards.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Am I missing something?
Where is the motor shaft?

I think given your island life and lack of distance and speed requirement you can probably manage without a clutch.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

You are quite right that the motor shaft is indeed missing.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

reserved for pictures, once hosting issue is resolved.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 18, 2010)

Here is a quick video of testing the motor and gearbox.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Good video! Almost musical as you went up the gears.


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