# Motor mount designs



## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)




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## gary k (Aug 19, 2008)

One suggestion is to think through the mounting of other components - it may be helpful to extend part of the mount out from the motor to provide a solid attach point for something else.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

The Porsche is a bit different from many cars, it holds the motor from it's end.
http://explodingdinosaurs.com/9electric/motormount











TheConverted said:


> I am in the process of designing the motor mounts for my conversion, and would like some inspiration (im sure others would as well) from other peoples motor mount designs.
> 
> So post pictures (or CAD drawings) of your motor designs/adaptations in this thread.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

Here are a couple of my designs.

A custom clutchless adapter to install a Prestolite MTC motor in a VW Buggy. The adapter IS the only motor mount. Not suggested if your car wasn't built for it.









Here is a bad picture of the front motor mount in my '66 Datsun. Cell phone cameras don't work to well in the garage at night. The mount is across the front of the ADC 8 inch motor, cutout in the back to leave room for the Zilla tach sender. The motor mounts are aftermarket Ford Flathead V8. The original motor mounts face forward because the stock engine was mounted by a front plate that went behind the timing chain cover and water pump.









Here are some other pictures of the car in progress. I need to update the page but there are some other pictures that show parts of the front mount better.


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## TheConverted (Jun 20, 2009)

This is where I am at;



















Im going to use the original ICE mounts and most likely also mount to the front of the engine bay where the red mark is.

Any ideas or suggestions?


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## EV-propulsion.com (Jun 1, 2009)

Here's a wraparound style, uses the stock rubber motor mounts, for a warp9 in a miata.








mike
www.EV-propulsion.com


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## toddshotrods (Feb 10, 2009)

How to go completely overboard mounting a motor:

CAD model










Started making chips yesterday








2 hours down, 98 to go, then start on a matching front mount (this is the drive end mount).


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## Dave Koller (Nov 15, 2008)

I'll just post this link as I have posted the pics twice before...

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=172054&postcount=75


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

with a swift/metro you need one motor face mount to get back to the original rubber anchor, and one plate to hold the CV bearing where the engine block used to be.


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## Salty9 (Jul 13, 2009)

You may want to check:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHUDF-Wbfsc

His motor was mounted only to the face-plate of the motor.


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

Hi to Converted;you may have seen my post "36V hillman." I notice that you have a St Mary's Cray motor. Mine is the same with four leads. Member Woodsmith suggested that my controller may not be suitable. Have you decided on a controller as yet?


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## TheConverted (Jun 20, 2009)

G'day poprock1, 

I haven't seen your hillman as yet, will have a good look at your project.

My motor is actually a ElectroDynamics motor, a fairly old ,guessing from about the 70's. Made in Kent, UK. It's a heavy beast about 10" in diameter and recently I found out its rated at 72v/80v. I have my fingers crossed that it can handle 144v. It only has 2 power terminals, not the usual 4.

I was planning on using a Zilla but it maybe a Soliton1 or the WarpDrive, havent commited to anything yet though. One step at a time though.


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

thanks; sounds like they are from the same company; mine is 9" dia; will follow your progress with interest


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

Salty9 said:


> You may want to check:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHUDF-Wbfsc
> His motor was mounted only to the face-plate of the motor.


Interesting stuff but not relevant to a Prestolite MTC motor. They are designed to be mounted by the shaft end bell, there are no other holes on the motor to bolt anything too. They provide 4, 1/2 inch bolt holes with over 3/4 inch of threads in each (more than sufficient, even being aluminum.)

I'm more concerned about my use of the brush end bell on the ADC 8 inch motor in the Datsun. The end bell is only attached with 4, 1/4 inch bolts so a lot of the torque is relying on the friction of the mounting. What I did to greatly reduce the torque taken by the end bell is use softer Ford flathead V-8 motor mounts up front and remove the rubber isolated mount on the tailshaft of the transmission. The back end is still rubber mounted, but only by the bushings (like oversize shock eyes) in the ends of the crossmember that go between the transmission and frame. I have the stock clutch so I have to keep the peak torque down too. 

I'm not sure how the MES-DEA motor was supposed to be attached. The shaft end bell has an attach pattern with sufficient bolts that it appears to be designed to attach there with some motor weight supported elsewhere. The lack of metal in the end bell is unsettling. He has the right idea with machining a replacement out of solid aluminum. Should be bullet proof (and a lot like the back of my Prestolite.)


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## TheConverted (Jun 20, 2009)

Ok, after some thinking time, here is the 1st piece of my mount design;



















The back end of the motor will be supported by the above crossmember that will be bolted to the chassis rail.

Thank you to everyone who has posted their pics of their mount design, and for others to feel free to keep doing so. This post could be a great reference for others to get great ideas from other peoples designs.

Now the next step is to figure out how to adaptor the front of the motor to the original ICE engine mounting points.

Keep smiling,
Moe


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

It looks like you are not using a transmission there.

You have two main options. Rubber mount the motor or solid mount the motor.

I much prefer motors to be rubber mounted as it is isolated a little from any frame flex and some of the road shocks as well as not transmitting any resonance into the frame.

However, in your set up if you use the original ICE mounts with the rubbers at the drive end then you will also need to allow for movement with a rubber mount on that nice bar you have made up.
That mount only needs to be a 'hinge' type of mount to allow the drive end of the motor to bounce a little on the mounting rubbers. That could just be a simple rubber block in the centre making a three point mount or you could use a tubular mount like a leaf spring bush or a suspension bush type of thing. That will allow it to hinge a little.

If you are solidly bolting the motor to the original ICE mounts without any rubber then the comm end mount could do with being a single point mount that allows a little flex like a ball joint. However, a single axis mount may do, a bolt that points towards the centre of an imaginary line between the ICE mounts would work so long as it wasn't tightened so much that it couldn't move a little.


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## TheConverted (Jun 20, 2009)

G'day Woodsmith, correct, no transmission. 

Will be using the ICE rubber mounts and will be using another 2 rubber mounts on the above adaptor. If you can imagine in the pic below the rubber mount on the motor side of the bar and tabs welded to the motor on each side to bolt up to the rubber mounts.


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

They should be fine.

One thing to do. 
Mount the rubbers level in height with the centre line of the motor and angle them to point inwards. That will allow the mounts to resist the motor torque better and offer control over up and down and side to side movements.

Uf you don't want them that high up then mount them far apart, that will give you simialr results.

If you can design the two halves of each mount bracket so that they cup each other over the rubber then you will also get some security over any front to back movement in, say heavy braking or a shunt.

Many Land Rover conversions in my youth replaced engine mounting rubbers with leaf spring bushes. The bolts were axial with the engine and the bolted through mounts prevented the engine ripping off the rubber mounts in the event of a crash.
I don't think you will need that level of security though.


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## TheConverted (Jun 20, 2009)

Thanks Woodsmith, all very good food for thought. I still need to work out how high the motor needs to sit in relation to the propshaft.


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## electrabishi (Mar 11, 2008)

Here are some photos of the Pinto motor mounts:





































Also here's a couple drawings 

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA/photos/album/291142935/pic/1837945341/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=61&count=20&dir=asc 

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA/photos/album/291142935/pic/256617053/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=61&count=20&dir=asc


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## electrabishi (Mar 11, 2008)

Here are some of the Electrabishi design:
Sorry, no drawings except pencil sketches in my notebook.
Yep I welded tabs to the motor housing, with careful instruction from Jim Husted.


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## TheConverted (Jun 20, 2009)

Thanks mate, nice and simple designs.


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