# Logisystem controller



## PTCruisin (Nov 19, 2009)

Hi Kimball,

Unfortunately I'm in the same boat as you. I bought a Logisystems 120-144V 750Amp controller last September but I can't test it since I'm am also waiting on LiFePo4 batteries from EV Components ($5600 dollars worth) which will probably not be delivered by the chickenshit thief Jim Morrison and his cohorts.

From what I've read here, the Logisystems controllers do not do a very good job of measuring and controlling current. Some have suggested replacing the control board with one from Paul and Sabrina's open source controller. Of course that requires opening the controller and voiding the warranty. I am highly doubtful that Logisystems will honor the warranty anyway.

I'm disappointed in both Logisystems and EV Components and regret purchasing their products. They give the whole EV community a black eye. I wish now that I had bought an open-source or Chinese (Kelly) controller and had purchased batteries from a vendor that had stock ready to deliver.

In regards to the Logi controller, I intend to run it at reduced max current (300 Amps) and provide additional cooling. Fortunately, my application is for a commuter EV that should not require a large current. I've considered using a hall effect current sensor to monitor battery current and a microcontroller to detect a runaway condition and open the KSI relay and main contactor to protect the controller. There may be others here who have a better scheme.

Good luck.

Ralph


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## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

well i was talked into buying mine from a freind who uses one on his golf cart. so I bought a 72v one to run my car, and it worked well for about a month. Now, unlike other buyers of LS controllers, I was lucky enough to get someone to the phone, and I told them what happened, they had me ship it back and repaired it, but they also upgraded it to 120v, while i was waiting, i did a lot of reaserch on how to give this controller a fighting chance, so knowing i was going to be using it, I bought a curtis for a spare. One of the issues is over heating, some have said that it does not sence heat, well to hopefully fix that problem, I added a large heat sink to the bottom of my controller assembly with bolts and heat sink coumpound. then before I bolted my controller to the assembly I used more heat sink coumpound. I also have 2 high output fans to cool it. now I called LS today to talk about their controllers, I asked them point blank if it sences heat, and current, and the man I talked to (Jim) said yes, so we will see. I have the upgraded LS controller on my car now and just came back from a 20 mile drive here are my results
the controller is 72-120v and 700 amps, Jim at LS said that as long as it never reaches 150degrees it will pull 700 amps continously (I doubt it)
after i turned it off in the garage the temp was at 95 degrees on the bottom of the controller, and not over 100 any where else.
during my drive I hit the highway going 65, my amp gauge was pegged for a while( some big inclines), it maintained that speed untill I exited the highway.then drove home at 35-45 mph, the car never felt like it was cutting back power, with my curtis I could allways tell when it was, so that is my first drive with the upgraded LS controller. I will post any new data like smoke comming out or good performance, as I go, I have a spare controller now so I feel good using the LS.


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## kimpaw (Feb 8, 2009)

Thats helpful information. I have decided to throw together an FLA pack so I can get some miles on my controller before the warranty expires at the end of July. Did you put a precharge resister on? What did you use for a heat sink?


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## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

kimpaw said:


> Thats helpful information. I have decided to throw together an FLA pack so I can get some miles on my controller before the warranty expires at the end of July. Did you put a precharge resister on? What did you use for a heat sink?


well i bought a kelly assembly with the 600amp contactor, it came with precharge resistors. as far as the heat sink, I got a 4 inch x 4 inch x 1 1/2 inch thick fined heat sink from ebay, a while back and that is what I bolted to the bottom of my assembly.


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## spring (Jun 25, 2010)

billhac said:


> well i bought a kelly assembly with the 600amp contactor, it came with precharge resistors. as far as the heat sink, I got a 4 inch x 4 inch x 1 1/2 inch thick fined heat sink from ebay, a while back and that is what I bolted to the bottom of my assembly.


 
As for high voltage controller,the precharge resistor is improtant for the controller operation.The B+ voltage should be very closed to battery pack,even if the contactor is off.

It is impossible that the controller still can output 700A when the temp is around 150 degrees.Otherwise it is unsafe for the controller operation.


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## 9852 (Jan 17, 2010)

spring said:


> As for high voltage controller,the precharge resistor is improtant for the controller operation.The B+ voltage should be very closed to battery pack,even if the contactor is off.
> 
> It is impossible that the controller still can output 700A when the temp is around 150 degrees.Otherwise it is unsafe for the controller operation.


since adding the heat sink, the controller has never gotten over 110 degrees, and that is max amp draw for most of my drive. so far so good, but we will see.


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## BobD (Dec 26, 2012)

I've been using a LogiSystems 144-volt, 1000-amp controller for about 4 years now. No problems with overheating with just a single 4-inch fan running. I use a 100-watt bulb as a pre-charge resistor and the unit is "dialed back" to about half output. I once had a 500-watt Curtis on another conversion and, while it worked fine, I wanted something built for greater output that I could run conservatively. The biggest hills around here usually top us out at around 350 amps running a Warp9 motor and twelve 98-amp-hour Deka gel batteries. You can see our conversion here.


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