# I may have just found a roller...



## dmwahl (Aug 25, 2014)

The posting is down now, but what did you decide? I know rangers are common donors so there's lots of relevant info out there.


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## Lionstrike (Oct 29, 2011)

I actually did buy it. 

So now I have an Open Revolt controller, an ADC 9 inch motor, and the truck.

I have no garage and it's going to get cold here in Pennsylvania SOON so construction on the truck will wait 6 months until it gets warm next year.

I have to build the controller yet and rustle up some money for the build with my overtime at work, so that's just fine with me.

I am also an aspiring doctoral candidate so I've got my time pretty well booked studying for the GREs and entering grad school again. 

I've got my hands full.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Do a tilt bed setup and put your batteries in boxes between your frame rails. Keeps the bed totally open for use. Hope you can go with lithium batteries. But no matter what keep the weight low. Between the rails and with a tilt bed you can gain access real easy to all your batteries.


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## Lionstrike (Oct 29, 2011)

I think that I am going to go with a tool box and those Nissan Leaf cells from hybridautocenter. 

Tilt bed setups are like $1500 from what I've priced. 

Put of my goal here is not just to create an EV but to show that it doesn't have to cost $12000. I've got some anti-ev folks that I talk to and if it costs me too, too, too much it defeats my point and proves them right.


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

Lionstrike said:


> I've got some anti-ev folks that I talk to and if it costs me too, too, too much it defeats my point and proves them right.


If you compare the cost of your converted EV to that of a new vehicle of similar capabilities that is a fair comparison. I compare my car to the new price of my car adjusted for inflation and that car cost about $13000 in 1985. Todays inflation would make it a $28737 car which is inexpensive for a two seat sports car.

By this comparison my conversion was inexpensive because I only spent about $19000 on it.

I get asked what it cost to convert and I start off by saying it wasn't expensive at all. Lots less than an equivalent new car.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

Do you have welding skills and basic fabrication skills? If so build your own hinge. Many do that over buying an expensive setup. If not the bed box is a second choice. Takes up usable space and your non EV guys will bring that issue up if you best them on the price. You can still do it and have a tilt bed. Should be plenty of examples to copy.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Lionstrike said:


> Put of my goal here is not just to create an EV but to show that it doesn't have to cost $12000. I've got some anti-ev folks that I talk to and if it costs me too, too, too much it defeats my point and proves them right.


Do it for yourself, not for them. Can't convert a hater if you gold plate it, make it fly, and do it for free.


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## Lionstrike (Oct 29, 2011)

Ziggythewiz said:


> Do it for yourself, not for them. Can't convert a hater if you gold plate it, make it fly, and do it for free.


Very wise.

I am still thinking of those Nissan cells in a toolbox. I've still got plenty of space. I've got an extended cab.

Think 60ah is o.k. for a 15 mile range?


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## Lionstrike (Oct 29, 2011)

Ziggythewiz said:


> Do it for yourself, not for them. Can't convert a hater if you gold plate it, make it fly, and do it for free.


Very wise.

I am still thinking of those Nissan cells in a toolbox. I've still got plenty of space. I've got an extended cab.

Think 60ah is o.k. for a 15 mile range?


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## arklan (Dec 10, 2012)

prismatic lifepo cells have a realistic 5c max so 60ah is going to give u 180amps continuous and 300amps max

id want my pack voltage to be 288 or something to make use of 60ah and even then its gonna be a grocery getter


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## Lionstrike (Oct 29, 2011)

So it'd be best to go with those CALB 100ah cells then I guess.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Lion
I have 64Ah, 130v and about 30 mile range

Number of things
Your motor (DC) only requires a very small voltage to drive a lot of current through it when stopped (15v for 1000amps - ish)

Your controller effectively works by adjusting the motor voltage until you achieve the desired (throttle) current

So stationary you only need ~ 15v to get 1000amps
As the motor speeds up it develops "Back EMF" which must be countered

so 
Zero rpm - 15v
1000rpm - 15v + 50v (ish) = 65v
3000rpm - 15v + 150v = 165v

Your controller is a power in = power out device

15v x 1000amps (motor) = 150v x 100amps (battery
65v x 1000amps (motor) = 150v x 433amps (battery

So you need less current than you think - except at high speeds

So 44 of your 60Ah cells 
44 x 3.2v = 140v x 60Ah = 8,400watt hours - at 300 watts/mile = 28 miles
Now you shouldn't use 100% - 80% is normal 
80% of 28 = 22 miles

You won't reach the 180 amps "Battery" until about 2000rpm

If you go for an OpenRevolt 500 you will be limited to 150v - 44 cells


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

If I had it to do over again, I would try to find a tool box that would be the right size for the batteries in the truck bed.

Have the anti-ev folks price in the amount of fuel they will need for the next ten years...


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## Lionstrike (Oct 29, 2011)

Duncan said:


> Hi Lion
> I have 64Ah, 130v and about 30 mile range
> 
> Number of things
> ...


Nice! So I might be able to get away with 60ah, and 150v. Not bad for starting out. The space economy from what I see will work in a toolbox too.

It's really one of the final bits of my equation. I've got quite a bit to go through before that.

I own the open revolt. I'll solder it up this winter. It'll keep me sane while I get through the cold winter Northeast USA months.

Then I've got to get an appropriate charger for it. I was thinking about the NG3 but now I am not sure. I think that if the money allows I should start thinking about a really good charger like a manzanita micro.

It's a ways away yet. I am a pretty good guy with electronics, but I am a crap mechanic.


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## arklan (Dec 10, 2012)

at 60ah and 144v your max continuous power output will be just shy of 26kw and your peak will be 43kw


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## Lionstrike (Oct 29, 2011)

arklan said:


> at 60ah and 144v your max continuous power output will be just shy of 26kw and your peak will be 43kw


Sounds about right... at 300wh/mile... 28 miles. 22 is more than enough. 15 would be enough.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

You don't want to fully discharge them every time. And batteries age and extreme temperatures can impact them.

http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=216

You can talk to them about what they did to convert a Ranger.


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## Lionstrike (Oct 29, 2011)

Caps18 said:


> You don't want to fully discharge them every time. And batteries age and extreme temperatures can impact them.
> 
> http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=216
> 
> You can talk to them about what they did to convert a Ranger.


Good call.

Really I just need a car to commute to work and back. Everything else is just icing on the cake.


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