# Planning VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 1303S conversion



## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Hi everybody, my Name is Jef and I'm new to this forum.
I have bought a Volkswagen Beetle 1303s with independent rear suspension to convert to an EV.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

EV conversion is something that is very rare in my country. A lot of the people only think about linear economy and the government is corrupted by the oil companies and large car manufacturers. There are all sorts of discounts and tax advantages for buying a new car, but conversion is very difficult. The authority that checks car to be street legal is in a monopoly position and doesn't budge to create a procedure to check converted cars. The authority to get the car registered is the same, very out dated.
But it is possible! And it's my mission to get this working myself.
If all goes well, I'm considering to make this my profession. Not to gain a lot of money, just to have a sustainable job that thinks about the environment and that puts food on the table. 

I have a master in Industrial engineering with a major in Electro mechanics.
During the past 16 years I have restored numerous mopeds, motorcycles and I've done most of the maintenance on my car.
I can make CAD drawings, have parts milled (CNC), parts turned on Lathe, Sheetmetal (lasercutting, bending and welding) and I can weld myself.
I've done all electrical wiring in my house and I have made wiring harnesses from scratch in the past for motorcycles and mopeds.
The past 12 years I have worked as a design engineering for machine builders, making concepts and detailing machines in 3D.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

For this conversion I want to do as much as possible myself to reduce the budget. For the range I'm currently looking at 100km (62,5 miles) and the charging time doesn't need to be short. Is this possible with lead batteries?

The beetle originally came with an engine that can produce 50 HP and 110Nm (81 ft-lb). With this conversion I want to achieve this as well, but not to much more (trying to reduce the load on the original gearbox) let's limit the torque to 150 Nm (110 ft-lb)

I have budget of around 10000 euro (preferably less) for the conversion.
I'm a big supporter of circular economy, so I don't mind using used or revised components.
The additional components on the car are very simply: radio, lights, horn, blinkers, a small heater and windshield wipers.
There's on watch-out ==> to get the car road legal in my country (in europe) the EMC restrictions need to be met. I don't know if that means that all components need to be certified of if I can get this certified myself. Maybe some people on the forum have experience with this?
AND the weight of the car needs to remain more or less the same...

So far, I have only bought the car (without motor) for 1250 euro. I thinks the weight is already lower than stock, because the fenders, trunk lid and hood are fiberglass (I think, I still need to pick up the car, but because of COVID I have to wait a couple of weeks) and it has race seats and aluminum rims.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

I have contacted some forklift scrapyards to see if they have a motor, but no response so far.
It seems that the manufacturers for complete kits are mostly located in the states and that the importers or distributors in Europe charge a lot additional fees for these same products.
There some in the UK as well, but these also focus on performance and the pricing is quite high.
Any tips from European converters regarding budget friendly kits or dealers are more than welcome.

I hope this enough information to get some response and to explore different options. I'm very glad I've found this forum and will try to contribute as much as possible by sharing the progress and details specific my country, region.


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## Boxster-warp (Jun 22, 2014)

Hello
Here is a conversion from Belgium. Components are from Heiko Fleck from Germany.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8P36UBtiyEI
Grettings Boxster-Warp


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## Boxster-warp (Jun 22, 2014)

Hello
I have a new netgain warp 11 dc motor if you are interested.
Very powerfull.
Problem in Germany is EMV.
Greetings boxster-Warp


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

I don't know what the market is like in Belgium, but in the States the cheapest way to go is to buy a wrecked production car like a Leaf or Tesla and use as many components as you can. Even if you can't get the whole car working, you can still use the batteries, motor (if you buy a controller), inverter, wiring, contactors, throttle, fuses, etc etc, and it'll wind up being cheaper than buying the batteries and motor separately. Some OEM motors/components have much better aftermarket support than others, though, so you'll want to research your options.

I bought a wrecked Leaf, but couldn't get it working in my car, so I had to buy a charger and controllers from Thunderstruck for another USD$3k.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

_Jef_ said:


> I have bought a Volkswagen Beetle 1303s with independent rear suspension to convert to an EV.


All rear-engine VW's have independent rear suspension, so I assume you mean that you have the CV-joint rear, rather than the earlier swing axles. It doesn't really matter, unless you replace the VW transaxle, in which case the CV joint setup is an advantage because the axle shafts don't take lateral suspension force.

My understanding is that a 1303 is the Super Beetle, with the longer nose (and curved windshield and McPherson strut front suspension). That will have more space up front than the regular Beetle for battery modules, if you need to put some there.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Boxster-warp said:


> Hello
> Here is a conversion from Belgium. Components are from Heiko Fleck from Germany.
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8P36UBtiyEI
> Grettings Boxster-Warp


Thank you for the reply, I will contact Heiko Fleck to see what kit he could offer. 
I love the German engineering and quality. Would be nice if I could work together with a German for my future projects as it's a neighboring country.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

brian_ said:


> _Jef_ said:
> 
> 
> > I have bought a Volkswagen Beetle 1303s with independent rear suspension to convert to an EV.
> ...


Correct the 1303s is known in the states as a super beetle. I really like the vw beetle and I'm glad I bought a 1303s. It has the McPherson front suspension, koni rear suspension and handles better than the earlier beetles.
With a transaxle I feel you really can't call it independent suspension. With a transaxle it more like a swing arm in my opinion...
Any way, I have the cv joint type, so I assume the handeling will be better than with a transaxle. 

Do you think I should install reinforced shocks?


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

_Jef_ said:


> With a transaxle I feel you really can't call it independent suspension. With a transaxle it more like a swing arm in my opinion...
> Any way, I have the cv joint type, so I assume the handeling will be better than with a transaxle.


It isn't important to the conversion, but swing axles are an independent suspension - the movement of each wheel is independent of the other one. Only people in the air-cooled VW/Porsche enthusiast crowd commonly make this basic terminology error, but they do it very commonly so I understood what you meant.

Yes, the different pivot points and resulting change in orientation of the pivot axis of the suspension arms makes the CV-joint version of the VW suspension handle better than the swing-axle version; there is less camber and toe change with wheel travel.

In this post you're introducing another error: you're suggesting that your CV-jointed IRS doesn't have a transaxle. Of course it does - it has a transaxle (transmission plus differential) just like any other air-cooled Beetle; the transaxle's outputs just don't serve as pivot points for the suspension. Since it isn't part of the suspension you have the option in your conversion of replacing the transaxle with a different one, but again, since your plan appears to be to use the original transaxle, this doesn't matter.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

_Jef_ said:


> Do you think I should install reinforced shocks?


Shocks aren't really "reinforced" (made stronger), but they come in different rates of damping (or "stiffness"). Shock damping should suit the mass of the vehicle, so if you increase the mass supported by either the front or rear axle, then stiffer shocks for that end of the car would be appropriate. That can wait until the conversion is complete, because it can be done any time and you won't know the mass until you're done. Shocks which are too stiff are almost as bad as shocks which are too soft.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Thanks for the responses so far.
I have contacted Heiko Fleck from Germany to see if he can provide me with the main components for the conversion. I will keep updating. 
I also contacted the person in the Youtube video and asked if he's interested in a tech talk to go through the process he went trough.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Hi everybody, today I got a proposal from Heiko Fleck from Germany. Thanks for the reference!
Can you guys have a look at this proposal and share your opinion, feedback?

For 1500Euro i can have an 20Kw engine from Best Motors Italia and an ZAppi Controller.
It was installed in an Scoda Fabia. That car starts in the fourth gear
Its water-cooled system.
If I want I can have the hole car too for the same price.
Charger used is 400euro from Zivan and used DCDC is 100euro
Batteries 24 pieces 160Ah GBS Batteries 
4608 Euro and BMS 1200Euro with Display
Its an 72 V System
Fuses 60Euro
Cable 6 Meter 120euro

To me, this sounds fair and I'm concidering this proposal....


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

_Jef_ said:


> Hi everybody, today I got a proposal from Heiko Fleck from Germany. Thanks for the reference!
> Can you guys have a look at this proposal and share your opinion, feedback?
> 
> For 1500Euro i can have an 20Kw engine from Best Motors Italia and an ZAppi Controller.
> ...


Is this an AC or DC motor/controller system? 72 volts is in my opinion on the low end but it would work in the VW as long as you can mount it to the transaxle.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

onegreenev said:


> Is this an AC or DC motor/controller system? 72 volts is in my opinion on the low end but it would work in the VW as long as you can mount it to the transaxle.


It a AC 3 phase motor (Asynchrone).
What do you mean with on the low end? What's better with a higher voltage?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

_Jef_ said:


> It a AC 3 phase motor (Asynchrone).
> What do you mean with on the low end? What's better with a higher voltage?


The typical voltage for our HPEVS motors are up to 144 volts depending upon the controller and motor used. Others are using like Tesla Motors and running in the 300 volt range. I have two HPEVS AC Induction motors and both of them will be running 120 volts. 

For DC motors typical setup is similar. My first EV was 72 volts and a 9" DC Series motor and the controller would do 550 amps. It was OK but not the best for the street. I bumped it to 96 volts and 900 amps and that did the trick. I then did 120 volts and that was even better. My batteries were never able to pump out more than 700 amps. 

AC is better in my opinion. Does your setup allow higher voltages or is that the limit?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

_Jef_ said:


> It a AC 3 phase motor (Asynchrone).
> What do you mean with on the low end? What's better with a higher voltage?


Just took a quick spin through the AC-3 / AC-4 User Manual. I would say that the setup would be totally fine for your VW Beetle. The biggest hurdle would be to attach the motor to the stock transaxle. Beyond that I'd say yes. Get the manual if you don't already have it and when you remove parts from the other vehicle get all the components and take pictures of connected parts before disassembly. The manual is very good and gives loads of information. 

https://www.zapiinc.com/sites/default/files/ZAPI AC3-AC4 Manual.pdf


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

And what do you guys think about the price? Is the amount of euros for the battery ok?? And for the bms?


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

_Jef_ said:


> And what do you guys think about the price? Is the amount of euros for the battery ok?? And for the bms?


Not terrible if they are new. If not haggle hard to get them lower depending upon the mileage on the batteries. BMS. no clue. Im assuming its a Zapi BMS. Check on their site to see what theirs costs new.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

onegreenev said:


> _Jef_ said:
> 
> 
> > And what do you guys think about the price? Is the amount of euros for the battery ok?? And for the bms?
> ...


Batteries are new ones.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

_Jef_ said:


> Batteries are new ones.


It is up to you to make the decision. I would still haggle with them to get the price as low as possible. Not likely too many will run in and scoop it up. Go in with some knowledge. Do you know if you can get this to mount up properly to your transaxle.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

onegreenev said:


> It is up to you to make the decision. I would still haggle with them to get the price as low as possible. Not likely too many will run in and scoop it up. Go in with some knowledge. Do you know if you can get this to mount up properly to your transaxle.



you're right, but these talks is something I like to do face to face. with this deal for the used components he's not charging to much in my opninion. The car this comes from is from a friend who had a bad BMS or no BMS and who killed his batteries within the first year. He then bought a house, had a baby and the car has been sitting, so not much mileage on the motor and controller. But like you say, I will negotiate with him on the prize. I can get the original car for this kit along with the components for free... which is also nice...

for the mounting I'm not to worried. I work as a desgin engineer and we have a workshop in our company that has waterjet cutting, milling machines, lathes, 3D printer, welders, ....
we even have a spline cutter.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

_Jef_ said:


> you're right, but these talks is something I like to do face to face. with this deal for the used components he's not charging to much in my opninion. The car this comes from is from a friend who had a bad BMS or no BMS and who killed his batteries within the first year. He then bought a house, had a baby and the car has been sitting, so not much mileage on the motor and controller. But like you say, I will negotiate with him on the prize. I can get the original car for this kit along with the components for free... which is also nice...
> 
> for the mounting I'm not to worried. I work as a desgin engineer and we have a workshop in our company that has waterjet cutting, milling machines, lathes, 3D printer, welders, ....
> we even have a spline cutter.


Sounds like you have it covered. Will await some results and images and maybe some video.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Today I was able to go and get the car. There is some bodywork that need to be done. But I will start with removing what I don't need.


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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

Hi Jef,
it seems to me that underneath those lots of plasic You will find many undesired "surprises". Be prepared to do some bodywork in addition to the conversion.
Concerning EMV, Heiko Fleck may be able to assist You with documents from the parts he offered. And maybe the beetle should temporarily become a german car and be certified there, and then registered in Belgium (after all this is the EU we are living).
I did all that (in Germany) last year with my Mini, and it happened to be far easier than expected.
Markus


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

schelle63 said:


> Hi Jef,
> it seems to me that underneath those lots of plasic You will find many undesired "surprises". Be prepared to do some bodywork in addition to the conversion.
> Concerning EMV, Heiko Fleck may be able to assist You with documents from the parts he offered. And maybe the beetle should temporarily become a german car and be certified there, and then registered in Belgium (after all this is the EU we are living).
> I did all that (in Germany) last year with my Mini, and it happened to be far easier than expected.
> Markus



Yes. there are quite a few undesired surprises. I bought the car really cheap and now I can restore the body the way I want and I also enjoy doing these things (restoration). With the tear down I can rebuild the car the way I want: roll cage, electric windows, sounds system, roll up seat belts, seat belts in the back, LED lights...
this will slow down the conversion process quite a bit, but that doesn't bother me.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

This weekend I went to Germany and collected a motor, Controller, dcdc converter, main contacter, vacuum pump for brake and a complete car which it all came from... The plan is to take all components from this car which I can use for the beetle (electric windows, horn, gas pedal, connectors, seat belts, radiator, pump,...) and sell other parts to finance the build a little bit. Heiko Fleck was the person who sold me this and he was really helpful and kind. The price was also a very good deal 1425 euro for everything. He makes very nice EV's.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Here are some pictures.


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## schelle63 (Jan 3, 2018)

This was a really good deal, I think. And here is good work ahead. All technical issues can be solved with assistance from here (forum), and people like Heiko Fleck.
The other factor will be You: there may come some period when - for any reason - you want to abandon the project. A break may help. (At least it did to me.) I wish you endurance and patience, stay brave!

Do you want to keep the whole plasic? If not, you should disassemble ist carefully, you may get a good price for it. Consider to fit a brake without servo and get rid of the vacuum pump.
I like your project. And that little dog, too!
Markus


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Time for an update. I have disassembled the car quite a bit. Restauration of the châssis and body will take up most of the time... 
But I have also looked at the connection from motor to gearbox.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

I need to make a new plate like this that has the same bolt pattern for the motor and the bolt pattern matching the Vw beetles gearbox. 
The flywheel can be reused I think. I need to check if I can find a clutch plate with the same spline as the Vw beetles gearbox. The outer diameter of the flywheel seems to fit inside the gearbox. 
Does a flywheel wear out to a point where it needs to be replaced? If yes, how can you tell?


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

_Jef_ said:


> View attachment 119868
> 
> I need to make a new plate like this that has the same bolt pattern for the motor and the bolt pattern matching the Vw beetles gearbox.


A suitable adapter plate is needed, but it makes no sense for most people to make one, since they are not equipped and skilled to do it. The air-cooled VW transaxle is probably the most common motor-to-transmission adapter in existence, so it makes more sense to me to buy one.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

_Jef_ said:


> The flywheel can be reused I think. I need to check if I can find a clutch plate with the same spline as the Vw beetles gearbox. The outer diameter of the flywheel seems to fit inside the gearbox.


The normal practice would be to just buy a VW Beetle clutch, which will of course work with the Beetle flywheel which you would be using.

It appears in this case that you are wanting to use the flywheel from the converted car that you bought, perhaps to avoid buying a new flywheel-to-motor shaft adapter. That probably means using the same clutch cover and pressure plate, which also needs to fit in the transaxle's bell housing. If a clutch disk which fits the Beetle transaxle shaft also fits the clutch cover (in diameter and thickness), you can mix and match parts. Have you tried the fit complete with the clutch cover?



_Jef_ said:


> Does a flywheel wear out to a point where it needs to be replaced? If yes, how can you tell?


If the surface has been trashed, it can be resurfaced. As long as it is smooth and flat, it's fine. Flywheels normally last the life of the vehicle; I've changed clutches, but never needed to machine a flywheel (although I have had one machined to lighten it).


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

brian_ said:


> The normal practice would be to just buy a VW Beetle clutch, which will of course work with the Beetle flywheel which you would be using.
> 
> It appears in this case that you are wanting to use the flywheel from the converted car that you bought, perhaps to avoid buying a new flywheel-to-motor shaft adapter. That probably means using the same clutch cover and pressure plate, which also needs to fit in the transaxle's bell housing. If a clutch disk which fits the Beetle transaxle shaft also fits the clutch cover (in diameter and thickness), you can mix and match parts. Have you tried the fit complete with the clutch cover?
> 
> ...


The only reason I'm thinking about reusing the flywheel of the previous converted car is because I don't have a beetle flywheel. I bought the beetle without motor... 
But it seems like I need to modify the flywheel mounting anyway, because the gearbox axle of the beetle needs a bearing on the end as well. Inside the crankshaft of the beetle engine is nut with a needle bearing that supports the end of the shaft...









Anyone got some pictures on how they made this? 
I want to machine these parts myself, because I work at a machine shop...


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

_Jef_ said:


> The only reason I'm thinking about reusing the flywheel of the previous converted car is because I don't have a beetle flywheel. I bought the beetle without motor...
> But it seems like I need to modify the flywheel mounting anyway, because the gearbox axle of the beetle needs a bearing on the end as well. Inside the crankshaft of the beetle engine is nut with a needle bearing that supports the end of the shaft...


That's a pilot bearing, mounted in the flywheel to support the end of the transmission's input shaft. That's normal, but some transverse transaxles don't have one; apparently your donor car didn't.

Fortunately, a Beetle flywheel should be easy to find, and you don't even need one with a good ring gear for the starter (because, of course, you will not have a starter); some people even remove the ring gear, because it is pointless and adds unwanted inertia. This makes it practical to just use a Beetle flywheel and a coupler intended for a Beetle flywheel and transaxle.



_Jef_ said:


> Anyone got some pictures on how they made this?
> I want to machine these parts myself, because I work at a machine shop...


There are various designs of coupler to mount on the motor shaft, with a flange for the flywheel. Perhaps someone recognizes the one you have, or can provide suggestions. Most people just buy them, for plain motor shafts and transaxles/transmissions for which couplers are commercially available.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Just offhand you could probably go as thin as 3/8" american and still have a useable clutch. Everything you want is as common as dirt, online sources @ places named VW (something). Looking at your pictures, that is an odd transaxle, but I admit I'm not qualified on VW past 1977, unless it was the "clutchless" 2 speed they only made for 2 years that I have never seen. You appear to have everything you need installed.


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## joekitch (Sep 13, 2013)

if at some point you're bit by the power bug, and think "how do i turn this into a missile?"....
EV west is perfecting a drop in rear cradle which accepts a tesla small drive unit, good to like 250hp, which in a very light weight beetle will be extremely fun stuff


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Bought a press to disassemble the flywheel adapter and to press new bearings for this entire project. 
Worked very good.









I got out the rotor as well









Is the rotor also pressed on the axle? Does anyone know if it's possible to remove the rotor? I would turn a new axle in the lathe so that the end of the shaft matches the Vw beetle crankshaft... 
In this way I can reduce the length that is added to the motor and gearbox combination.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Finally some update on the electric conversion part.

















made a 3D for the adapterplate and the flywheel adapter. I'm using the stock 200mm clucth. It should handle the max torque of 120 Nm.
The motor has an output shaft on the backside as well. not sure if it will still fit, but for now I'l keep it on.I will also draw a blanking plate for the starter and some other stuff I will share.
If there'a anyone who needs step files or anything else. Let me know.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

And I also found a body that's in good shape. The first car I bought was to far gone with rust.
I will build the car with all except interior and have the car technically approved, then take it apart again and paint it.

I will also update the entire electric part with:

third brake light
DAB bluetooth radio
powered windows
side indicators
led tail lights
led head lights
parking sensors at the back
electric pump for the windshield wiper fluid
....


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

start motor blind plate


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

I also took apart the gearbox to conclude that it was worn. The money I needed to invest to rebuild the gearbox was significant,
so I decided to buy a stronger rebuilt gearbox from Rancho. The motor I have puts out 120Nm which is to high for the original gearbox.
Some people might think it will be fine, but I rather be on the safe side. Since I want to use it as a daily driver, I don't want to break down.
If I ever upgrade the motor to a stronger one, the gearbox should be fine


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

now It's time for the charging plug
I cut out the filler hole for the original VW tank from one of the other bodies and will design a lasercut plate to mount the charging plug.
I also bought a second hand charging cable that's never been used. It has the same colors as I want to paint the car .
For charging I took a plug that can take 32A current. that way I can also upgrade the charger in the future If I want to go to fast charging with three phases.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Okay, I decided to go with a 3D printed part for the plug adapter.
Making it out of sheet metal would require to much work + with 3D printing I could make it really ideal.
The idea is to glue this into the original fuel neck position so that I can bolt the Mennekes plug to it.
It uses the original lid/cover plate and can be used with the different types that I had laying around.
I will be installing the one with the release cable and the spring that opens the lid. I will use a solenoid to open the lid in stead of the handle...
I also made a rain drain in case some water gets in.
I'm going to print one as a prototype to see if the dimensions are good.
Do you think others would be interested in this as well? Maybe I can reduce the print cost a bit when I go with higher numbers...
If you are interested, let me know.

these were the different lids I had laying around:


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## Boxster-warp (Jun 22, 2014)

Hello
I am also considering converting a BEETLE or Karmann ghia. Your work is very interesting.
Greetings from Germany


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Some updates:








Axle of the motor has been worked to mount the pilot bearing for the gearbox shaft.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Flywheel modified and adapter turned on the lathe.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Part 3d printed. In PETG








For the charging port. 
Was 15 euros 😁


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Rebuilding porsche 944 brakes on all 4 wheels of the car.
Should look like this in the end


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)




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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

_Jef_ said:


> View attachment 121775
> 
> Flywheel modified and adapter turned on the lathe.


If you modified the flywheel, why does it still have the starter ring gear teeth? They're useless, and just add rotational inertia.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

The teeth are hardened and to remove them the cutting tool would suffer a lot, because of the interrupted cut... Something the operater of the lathe was not happy to do... 
If you have any tips for this, please let me know.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

_Jef_ said:


> The teeth are hardened and to remove them the cutting tool would suffer a lot, because of the interrupted cut... Something the operater of the lathe was not happy to do...
> If you have any tips for this, please let me know.


I wouldn't want to machine through the teeth themselves, although I've driven cars that feel like they're trying to do that.  Perhaps a parting cut axially through the flywheel just inside of the teeth, to separate the teeth as a complete ring... but of course the teeth can just be left on.

In many cases (including a few air-cooled VWs, but not most) the ring gear is a separate piece, mounted as a shrink fit to the flywheel - that's easier, because the ring gear can just be heated and knocked off.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

Adapter between motorhousing and gearboxhousing is also fabricated. This weekend I will test fit everything.
And then the flywheel, adapter and rotor will be balanced.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

OK, did some test fitting today.
The parts are good, but there's still 1 dimension I'm not sure about.
I've never assembled a clutch and therefore it's difficult to judge how important it is.
I'm hoping some of you can help me...
Because of the uncertainty, I've left excess material on the adapter plate that can be removed on the lathe.


















In the image above you see the measurement I'm talking about. It's the relative position between the surface of the flywheel where the clutch disk is pushed against and the surface of the adapter plate that is in contact with the bell housing of the gearbox. (the words in the image above are in my native language...)

Can someone confirm that this dimension is right? 11mm or 0,43"
The gearnox is a VW type 1 gearbox .








this is with the gearbox mounted on top of the motor. (without pressure plate and clutch disk.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

I have installed the clutch disk and pressure group (bolted down) and measured the height of this compared to the contact surface of the adapter plate. This measurement was 55,5 mm. 








Using these precision bars I could measure the distance... The pressure group and clutch disk are not visible in the picture, but it gives an idea how it was measured... 

I also meausered the distance between the contact surface of the gearbox and the thrust bearing. This was 64,5.
For this I placed I ruler across the gearbox bell housing and meausered to the contact surface of the thrust bearing. 

This would mean that the thrust bearing needs to travel 9mm before it comes in to contact with the pressure plate. Is this normal? Or should the gap be smaller? 
I can create a smaller gap by removing material from the back of the adapter plate.... 

Pressure group is new btw.


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

This is 21 mm


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

This is 37 mm


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## _Jef_ (May 25, 2020)

And this is what it looks like at the shaft








In the picture there is a rubber ring on the shaft to tell how deep the shaft is in the pilot bearing.

So you alll can see I can still take some of the adapter plate to have less travel on the thrust bearing. But I don't know how much...
Any suggestions how I can verify or check?


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