# Zapino Zap - rebuild



## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Nucular motor controllers:
*AVOID AVOID AVOID
Learn from my far from good expereinces with Nucular and avoid them!*

There is fairly new group of smart people in Moscow Russia that started making 100v FOC motor controllers. I have been aware of them since they first showed prototypes in 2018. As soon as they had a 12 fet controller ready for release, I bought 3 of them. Same for 24 fet controllers. I have since bought 5 more of the 24 fet controllers...which I now regret!

NOTE: Nucular has decent success in the DIY EV market..
1. Their technical support 100% sucks. SLOOOOOW and unhelpful!
2. They charge you for warranty issues! Once they decide you did it, do NOT expect them to care about anything you might say to the contrary!
3. I sent back the 3 original 24 fet controllers I got from them since they all had issues. 2 months later they got repaired.
4. Expect them to be atrociously sloooow in addressing problems and to vague at best with answers! After I got the controllers in place on the Zap, I immediatley noticed a motor stuttering issue. I told Vasilly at Nucular about it and a week later I was told I "have an interesting motor". Not a fix, not suggestions for a resolution..."interesting motor". As far as I know, I was the first person to report this problem in August 2020. 10 months later...still no fix for the problem and many people are reporting the same problem with their motors and Nucualr controllers!!! It happens with any kind of motor. People report 25% to 50% motor power. The problem involves phase amps and PIDs. So far Nucular is 100% ignoring the problem!
5. When I had enough of their crap, they just banned me. No effort to apologize or to fix their issues...ban the victim! Ban the guy that has been buying your products since the day you relased anything and has personally bought 11 of your controllers!!! GOOD JOB Nucular!!!

*GRRR!!!!!! AVOID NUCULAR!!!*

I knew I needed 2 controllers to run my 6 phase hub motor and I knew I wanted to see how far I could push the motor...so I dropped $1200 for 2 of the 24 fet Nucular controllers so I could find out. They are rated for 300 battery amps, 500 phase amps and 20kw. This seems like a lot of money until you consider that most everything else in FOC at these power levels costs 2X more per controller. They "seemed" like a good option at the time.

The controllers and LCD communicate via CANBUS and with a bit of wiring and setup, 16 devices (1 LCD and 15 other things) can all "talk" to each other to share control information. I always use waterproof connectors and so I made up a Y cable so that the 2 controllers and 1 LCD could all communicate with each other. This was all done exactly as described by Vasilly and then later I was blamed for blowing up my 2 original controllers by miss wiring the CANBUS cabling. I know that never happened as all of it got tripple checked before it was ever connected together and powered up. Then issues only emerged after about 100 miles of riding. My wiring and soldering skills or lack of them would have shown up immediately, not 100 miles later!


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

rishimaze said:


> Later on the LIFE and LTO packs after about 100 miles of use got replaced with 2 LION packs.


I realize that you understand what you're talking about, but using incorrect terminology will just confuse other people.

Both LiFePO4 (or LFP, which you're calling "LIFE") and LTO are lithium-ion cell electrode chemistries; "Li-ion" (which you calling "LION) just means lithium-ion, so LFP and LTP are both Li-ion. You're saying that you replaced Li-ion with Li-ion, which of course doesn't mean much. Apparently you replaced the LFP and LTO with some other lithium-ion chemistry, such as NMC or NCA. I realize that the marketing information for commodity 18650-size cells doesn't normally include any information about the actual chemistry - it's just something with about 3.7 V nominal voltage.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

The last BMS is in the USA! I might have it Monday and then this thing can get closed up.
Tracking shows it just left Nevada. 
There's still details to work out, but I don't think any of them require taking all the cowlings off like it is right now.
Even the ratcheting issue can be lived with until Nucular figures out why people are having this problem.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

rishimaze said:


> The last BMS is in the USA! I might have it Monday and then this thing can get closed up.
> Tracking shows it just left Nevada.
> There's still details to work out, but I don't think any of them require taking all the cowlings off like it is right now.
> Even the ratcheting issue can be lived with until Nucular figures out why people are having this problem.


The BMS's get delivered today. I got a touch LCD too. I'll know soon enough if this is worth the $32 it costs or not. The phone app has recently gotten much better with the latest release. I already liked the XiaoXiang BMS's. The latest version of the app fixed all the issues with it that I had.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

FEH! Wrong BMS's and I'm missing a BT module. LOL! ICGOGOGO is usually on the ball...new guy or maybe their shipping people were hung over?


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

The list of things left are diminishing...
1. I can make and install better torque arms with the EV 100% assembled.
2. Putting the correct BMS in place will require taking lots of panels and the floor back off. That won't be so fun.
3. I'm toying with the idea of vinyl coating all the body panels. This hides the less than pretty teal paint, scratches and other flaws.
4. Controller setup weirdness (motor ratcheting) can be dealt with once Vasilly from Nucular figures that out. I'm not the only person I know of with this issue.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

I've been fiddling with PIDs in the Nucular controllers. The stuttering issue still exists, but it's lots better than it used to be. I can take off from a dead stop fairly well now and I can use throttle at about 50%. I don't know what top speed is, but I was doing 75mph for a while. Motor temps never went above 100C even after riding for 5 miles at 60+.

I wanted to see what kind of range I could get without using regen. 71 miles...not too bad.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

I'm thinking this is pretty close to done other than niggling details:
Still needs...
1. Torque arms V4
2. Figuring out the rest of the stuttering issue
3. Correct BMS for front pack


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

FYI...do NOT buy from Nucular!
1. Their tech support is atrociously BAD! Vasilly is nearly 100% unresponsive! Expect to waste at least 6 months and STILL NOT get him to resolve your issues! I've had this motor stuttering issue for more than 6 months now. Best support I got was from other users of these controllers, NOT Vasilly!

2. If you need to send something back under warranty, they will charge you for it! Right now I have 2 controllers that I sent back to them. They failed unexpectedly for no reason. There was no electrical issue in the EV of any kind. Neither controller was over tempurature and no mosfets burned out. Dimitry from Nucular claims I caused the failure and is insisting on charging me for repairing the controllers! I had the back wheel off the ground, was running the motor, hit regen to slow it down again and they were suddenly dead. The CPU boards had died. This is a known problem.

3. No changes of any kind! I did recheck my work to make sure I didn't cause the controller failure. Plug in 2 more Nucular controllers and now they have 150 miles of use on them. HOW did I cause this failure? There is no evidence of this!

Anyway, after the piss poor and non-existant support and now this! I'm DONE with Nucular! I've been putting up with their crap since 2018. I think I gave them loads of chances in that much time!


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

The front battery pack is now complete with the right BMS. Several layers of PET enclose everything. In a previous picture, I showed the temporary ANT BMS in that opening. The DC-DC sits there and gets good air flow without the ANT BMS in the way.


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## giraffe (Oct 23, 2019)

Hello I just bought two zapinos for 50$(including shipping to my door.)

One is exactly like yours with the blue motor, I was able to get it spinning with one controller, and figure out which hall is which, it runs good on the stand.
Sadly it doesn't have much torque currently with only one controller on 84v, although going downhill i found it promising. looking forward to getting second controller in. The rear tubeless tire was left sitting flat and doesnt hold air nowr, do you have any recommendations for tires for the stock rim?

The second zap scooter has horizontal dropouts, I have motor coming in soon, a qs motor 12in.

I dont have any of the plastics for the bikes, and no seats, and only one seat bucket.
Waiting on moped plates from the mvd, cool little scooters!
Will upload pics once i get more progress


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Now I need time to make new torque arms! After that...maybe vinyl over the cowlings? Not much left to do on it!


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

The Nucular controllers and LCD will be going away. I'm tired of the bullshit I keep getting from them and will NOT be using their products in the future! 10 months of ZERO progress on their controller issues!!! Enough is ENOUGH! I don't recommend using Nucular! If you have issues, good luck getting support! I'm actively looking for other FOC options so I can get rid of the severely limiting Nucular controllers that don't work right. I should be doing 0-60 in sub 5 seconds and seeing peaks of 40kw. Instead I do 0-60 in 6.7 seconds and never get above 20kw. The controllers can do it, but they won't run the motor right. FEH!

I needed better USB charging. QC 3.0 charging is now on board. It won't deliver the 65 watts my phone can handle, but it will do 9v and 2a and that's the basic QC 3.0 spec.










The old magnetic phone base was too weak and I've had phones come off several times now...so I got larger and stronger magnets. My phone will not pull away without tearing off the back cover. I know because that is exactly what happened and I had to glue it back on! Slide the phone off and even that is not easy.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

60 mile ride tonight with regen on the the new torque arms. I'm at 72v. It's hard to say how much range that is left. The arms seem to be working so far and I did NOT go easy with regen at all.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

*AVOID NUCULAR!!!*
Vasilly and Dimitry at Nucular are 100% useless and have NOT provided even BAD ideas on how to fix the motor stuttering issues. I'm seriously pissed off at them and they called me a dickhead for getting mad about the LACK of support after 10 months! I have bought 11 controllers from them for myself and others. The best they can do is call me "dickhead"! I sent back 2 when they died mysteriously for no reason I could have caused. They tried to charge me for warranty repairs!!! Just yesterday they sent out an email to everyone stating they have redesigned their controllers to fix the design problem that caused those controllers to die!!! GRRR! I'm the dickhead? YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING!!!

Nucular is seriously behind the cadence they set for new firmware releases. 2018 to 2020, every couple of months was a new firmware release. The last new firmware was August 2020...a year ago. I've reported 10-15 bugs to them since August 2020...no new firmware! Never mind no firmware fix for the stuttering issues!

I can't prove it since I have no evidence or even heard a rumor. I'm in the USA and they are in Russia. I readily admit I have observed some patterns and am making conclusions that may be wrong. I think behind the scenes they had a really smart guy working for them. I think he wrote all the firmware and did the major hardware design work. From 2018 to 2020 there was rapid development in their controllers. I think probably something like August 2020, he left Nucular for whatever reason. This would totally explain the lack of further firmware updates and lack of further controller development. It would explain why their BMS development has come to a total stand still! It would explain why Vasilly and Dimitry are so useless! They are the "front men" and not the brains of the company who is no longer there.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Last night...

The Zap scooter is 100% done except for the Nucular controller issues. I mostly tooled around my neighborhood starting and stopping over and over again. The idea was to tweak the controller PIDs to get better motor performance from the Nucular controllers.

Not much progress or improvement last night. I tweaked and fiddled with PIDs and got 20 more phase amps that didn't stutter too badly. I have to stay at 160 phase amps to avoid all stuttering. 300+ phase amps is what I should be doing!

I think since I have fiddled and fiddled and fiddled with the PIDs and other settings that it is time to go back to factory defaults, start over from scratch and see if my changes are really better or not. It's been a couple of months of fiddling with controller PIDs and I no longer know. Did I really gain 20 more phase amps last night? Am I improving motor performance at all? LOL! I know more what stuff does now so there will be less guessing and fiddling.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Defaulting and setting up the dual Nucular controllers again after rediscovering the motor changed nothing. The stuttering is the same, power is the same. I put back my last PIDS...that was as good as it gets. What else is there? These controllers are jacked up!


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

My friend in California and I have been doing the Nucular song and dance together for the past year. Tonight we were talking about other options like VESC since it's pretty clear that Nucular will never pan out. That digressed into new names for them...

Vasilly is now Vasdickly
Dmitry is now Dickmeatry
Nucular is now Fuckular

We had a good laugh! I hope you do too. I'm seriously tired of the Fuckular BS! The arrogance and ignoring valid questions is ridiculous! I cant tell you how many times I was told "I'm spamming" when I ask questions and get ignored over and over again! GRRR!


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

I tried ooooone more time with the dip shits at Fuckular...
Same story...don't respond to questions, are condescending and arrogant all the time, won't address problems and can't be bothered to address anything I tell them! Bow and worship, bow and worship...that's about all they respect! I can't tell you how many times Vasdickly has said I'm a spammer! Seriously dude?!

Here's a clever idea for you:
1. BE LESS CONDESCENDING!
2. BE LESS ARROGANT!
3. WHEN YOU TELL ME TO DO SOMETHING, I WILL ASK QUESTIONS. ANSWER THEM!
4. WHEN I GIVE YOU NEW DATA, RESPOND TO WHAT I PRESENT TO YOU!!!
5. A YEAR SINCE THE LAST FIRMWARE RELEASE? THAT'S A BIT MUCH!
6. FIX YOUR CONTROLLER ISSUES ALREADY!!!

I'm sooo done with those arrogant assholes! This was the LAST attempt at trying with them!


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## Electric Land Cruiser (Dec 30, 2020)

I saw this bike on Saturday also at the EV meetup and I have to say I was really impressed. It's a totally useful bike with tons of range and speed. Really you just need to get the controllers working properly. I forgot to ask, do you have a J1772 plug or have you thought about adding public charge capability beyond just 110V?


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

I bought one of the 30 amp chargers found here. 









200.0US $ |Intelligent 72v 15a 20a 25a 30a Charger For72v 20s Li-ion - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com





Since it is 110v or 220v, I can use it for J1772, 220v drier outlets or 110v outlets. Assuming it is a reasonably good charger, this will let me have onboard charging with a high degree of flexability. I looked around to see if anyone was using them and didn't find anything. I don't know, maybe I'm an early adopter? Maybe they have been explored already and they are a steaming turd? I've dropped $255 on a 30 amp version and it will be here in a couple of weeks. I'll know more soon...


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

The charger arrived! It's making 82.3v, not 82.9v. This puts each cell at 4.11v...so just barely high.

I believe I found the manufacturer of this charger. The seller was NOT remotely helpful in this regard and insisted that the charger could not be set to some other voltage. I disagree...they got it set "somehow" and these chargers can be set for use at all sorts of voltages. OF COURSE they can be adjusted!









Shenzhen UNIS Technology Co., Ltd. - Li-ion battery, Battery charger


Shenzhen UNIS Technology Co., Ltd., Experts in Manufacturing and Exporting Li-ion battery, Battery charger and 0 more Products.




unistechnology.en.alibaba.com





It's a bit larger than I imagined. I'm not sure how I'll mount it onboard the Zap. I don't think I have a space that is large enough. Losing the handle will help, but not a lot. I've bought parts so I can make up a Y cable for plugging into my drier outlet. This will give me easy access to 30 amp 220v power for the charger. I'll see about setting up J1227 on the Zap once I have the charger mounting worked out.


















What we all want to see...the guts! The 2 JST connectors are for external options I opted to NOT get. I thought they were stupid and poorly executed so I didn't ask for them.


















































PIC16F1936 micro controller. The 7 pin connector is the programming port. I've never messed with PIC programming, but I bought a PICKit3 so I can give it a shot. This is the only way that I see of changing the output voltage. I'm pretty sure it can be adjusted down to about 60v and up to about 90v. Maybe it uses a voltage divider to set the output voltage? I haven't spent any time analyzing the IC's on the control board to determine if this is the case or not. I really think output settings are programmed in the PIC.


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## Electric Land Cruiser (Dec 30, 2020)

If you can't find a spot to fit it on your bike and you can figure out how to adjust the voltage I may buy it from you for another project I have.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Electric Land Cruiser said:


> If you can't find a spot to fit it on your bike and you can figure out how to adjust the voltage I may buy it from you for another project I have.


I'm still wrangling with the seller. Just yesterday they told me they are the factory store for these chargers. They have been steadfast that they can't be adjusted and yet it is a fact that the output voltage is set according to what the buyer specifies (plus what they decide you need). AKA...obviously settable! I sent them that picture of the PIC controller. They know that I know that the charger can be changed. I have purchased a PICKit3 PIC programmer and they know this too. I have demanded 2 things from them. The first is the uncompiled code they put in the micro controller. The second is fixed compiled firmware set to 82v.

They told me that charging LION to 4.2v is perfectly OK and that I should "trust them about this". I had to laugh! Obviously they have never looked at the discharge curves for LION cells. Obviously they have never read a single white paper about how charging LION to 4.2 volts shortens their life span! Really folks? "Trust you" when you've lied to me repeatedly and NOT done what I asked for???

I have to wonder how sooo much drama comes my way! On this EV, Nucular has been an ongoing mess for a year now and now this! HOW HARD would it have been to just set the output voltage to what I specified?

This charger is still getting tested. I don't want to sell it if its not working right. The EV just got fully charged the day this one arrived. It has seen some small use at 3 amps so far. I have bought a bunch of parts so I can make a beefy splitter for my drier outlet. This will get me 220v charging and the full 30 amps. I'll post those results once that is all set up. I sure hope that is real! Charging at 9 amps with my current charger takes way too long.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

I bought the electrical parts to make a drier outlet splitter. I could have bought one, but where's the fun in that?! This is a bit dangerous to do I suppose if you have someone around that doesn't know what you are doing. I "adapted" a 220v drier chord to a 110v female plug so I can use a standard extension chord from the drier to where the scooter sits for charging. From there, the water proof charger can run on 110v or 220v. Now I have 220v at the charger on a bright red extension cord. No one lives with me so I'm not overly worried about someone accidentally plugging into this 220v circuit with a 110v device. With the cord being red, that's a big clue for me if I were to get absent minded for some reason. I put it on the floor for the picture, but just in case the washer were to leak, this isn't its home. There's very little chance the drier and charging will be running at the same time so I'm not worried about over loading the circuit and it does have its own breaker.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

I'm just going to throw this out there...
Why do I get screwed over so often?! Am I too trusting or not demanding enough before I buy?

Avoid this seller! They refuse to fix what they did. I've opened a dispute with aliexpress against them.



Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com



The folks at Shenzhen Facewell Batteries Store have boned me yet again!
1. They set the output voltage too high so I have to watch charging to make sure I don't over charge my 82v pack.
2. Now I have the charger on a 220v, 30 amp circuit and the damned thing doesn't charge at 30 amps like they told me!!!

This is the best I have seen. All 3 BMS's, clamp on amp meter and this watt meter all read almost identical current. NOT remotely close to 30 amps! FUCK!!!


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Still fighting with the dipshits at Shenzhen Facewell Batteries Store! All they need to do is get me corrected firmware and I go away. This is soooo easy for them to fix and they refuse. The store is the official sales front for the manufacturer. This is sooo easy to fix! I filed a dispute with aliexpress (my first ever in 4 years of purchases) and that has netted me a $76 refund/decision in my favor. I still have an incorrectly functioning charger that needs corrected firmware so I refused the partial refund. I've been telling them to get me fixed firmware or refund me 100% of my money. They have done neither.

I'm done with this stupidity! Now I'll go to paypal and file a dispute for the entire transaction. You jsut DON"T put metal inside someones charger, set the voltage and current wrong and use a broken plug without people getting a little miffed about getting screwed over! Time to stop arguing with an impossible seller and make them eat the cost of the charger!!! Not how I wanted this to go, but I created none of this situation and am just responding to it as it deserves. Sigh!

I guess it is up to me to hack the PIC microcontroller since the factory store won't give me what I need.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

The dip shits at Nucular after 1.5 years FINALLY released new firmware! It took them long enough! They fixed quite a few bugs that I had reported to them as far back as August 2020. There's a number of new behaviors that I have yet to understand that may or may not be bugs. There is a menu of features that has never worked and now they display little icons on the LCD when various states occur. Some are warnings and others are just status. The icons display for just a second so you better be staring at the LCD all the time or you will miss them!

I installed the new firmware on my controllers. Many settings were lost and others were preserved. IF you do this firmware upgrade, it takes several minutes to install the controller firmware. Upgrade your controllers first and then the LCD firmware. It happened to both of my controllers that once they were updated, the LCD could no longer access them until it was updated too. I needed to unplug the LCD so it would reset and reconnect to the controllers.

The October 2021 firmware did help with motor stuttering, but it didn't solve it:
1. I've gone from 160 phase amps to 200 phase amps before stuttering occurs. This has improved acceleration. Stuttering is FAR from gone! Anything over 200 phase amps and I'm back at stuttering again. 
2. There's some new hall options and maybe they will help with stuttering. 
3. I'm still running on my heavily modded PIDS and I should try setting them back to factory and see if that helps. I wanted to leave as much the same as before to see what improved or didn't improve.
4. I need much less of a running start to get up my 12" ramp. It used to take 5 or 6 inches of rolling under power to get going enough to make it up the short ramp. It's about 1 inch now and still wont get moving at the base of the ramp from a dead stop. 
5. Taking off from a stop on the road is improved, but instant torque is definitely NOT what I would call it. 
6. I haven't tried top speed yet, but I expect that is unchanged.


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## Electric Land Cruiser (Dec 30, 2020)

So does it do wheelies now or what?


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Electric Land Cruiser said:


> So does it do wheelies now or what?


I wish! I think the EV or me would need to lose weight for that.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

It took a while to unpackage the sections of mobility packs again. I'll be getting them pulled apart down to the cells soon. All the others I already harvested have been tested and this batch will get tested too. It was good to test them. I found 6 that tested 2700mah or less. All the others tested much higher.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

This one layer's thermal glue is cured. I can spot weld it at any time. 










Those sections that used to be the under floor pack are all taken apart. I need to clean up the small sections of nickel still spot welded to most of the cells. After that, test to find any that have low capacities.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Bottom side of the first bank is welded together. I have a bowl of water in the upper right corner. The weld probes get so hot I can't hold them anymore so they go in the water to cool down again. This is the only reason I stop spot welding. I'm pushing a lot of current at 100 joules to get good welds with .3mm nickel. The silicon wires get pretty hot too. The other 2 banks won't have that separate section welded independently on the right.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

The left most layer is a bit of a cock-up. I didn't plan it out like I should have so it's not groups of 7 cells like the other 2 layers. Layer 2 is correct now, but I did weld a couple of sections together that weren't supposed to be welded together. It has a couple of jumpers in it to fix that mistake. Layer 3 is 100% correct so far and should stay that way on the other side too. Layer 1 has the main battery poles on the opposite side of the layer than does 2 and 3. At least they are all in the same positions on each layer! BATT- at the top and BATT+ at the bottom.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Rear section of 20S6P is done. I'm out of 6 pin JST connectors and I'll need quite a few more for the other 3 layers.










One of the smaller front sections is spot welded together. I ran out of thermal glue and more is on order. That will be here Tuesday along with more JST connectors.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Blank


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Blank


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

I have a 400 pound package scale. I've never weighed the scooter before. The LCD is on a long cord so I can see the weight even if the scale is totally covered up.

Just the scooter with no rider:
1. The back tire is seeing 199 pounds. Not surprising considering most of the weight of the EV is back there! 2 packs, hub motor, controllers, etc.
2. The front tire is seeing 119 pounds.
3. I laid a section of 3/4" plywood on the scale and that weighs 28 pounds.
4. Rolling the scooter onto the ramp and all up weight is 302 pounds.
5. 302 - 28 = 274 pounds for the scooter.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Closed up, done and hopefully other than some fiddly thing never getting worked on again.


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## Electric Land Cruiser (Dec 30, 2020)

rishimaze said:


>


This is awesome.


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## rishimaze (May 23, 2021)

Electric Land Cruiser said:


> This is awesome.


Thanks Jimmy! So is your land cruiser.


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