# To Noalox, or not to Noalox?



## kennybobby (Aug 10, 2012)

Are your terminals really bare aluminum, or are they plated (nickel?)--i've seen cells both ways.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

I use Noalox with stainless bolts, stainless washers and split lock washers. I used the stuff for the connections on both positive and negative posts. I put a set screw into the threads when scrubbing the connections for bare metal, it is a nice way to keep from collecting a lot of the stuff in the hole. Nothing has come loose.


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## Moltenmetal (Mar 20, 2014)

They're Sinopoly 180 Ah. The data sheet doesn't tell me what they're made of though the negative post is clearly copper. A file tells me that whatever the + post is made of, it files easily and there's no colour difference between the surface and a notch filed perhaps 10 thou deep near the threads. A magnet tells me it's non ferromagnetic. Are you implying Ni plated Al? Aside from info from somebody who has spoken with Sinopoly or perhaps an XRF gun, I can't tell you for sure.

If it were Ni plated I would not want to put Zn in there...there would be no point.

Neither my straps or lugs are tinned or plated.


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## Vectrix150V (Dec 13, 2013)

One is copper (as you said) the other is aluminium.

I've used Noalox on these before, I hit them with a bronze brush, and then use the noalox on the shiny surfaces.


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## dougingraham (Jul 26, 2011)

There are several problems that occur at battery terminals.

One problem is keeping the aluminum and copper in the battery terminals from oxidizing over time. You can clean the oxide off of the battery terminals and if you don't use something to keep the oxygen out you will end up with an invisible insulating layer between the straps and the aluminum terminal. The copper terminal will also do this but at least you can see it on that side. The grease portion is what will keep the oxygen out. Another problem is dissimilar metal contact. There will be corrosion when dissimilar metals come in contact. This can be severe or minor. The zinc in the NoAlox will convert first and because of the grease this will take a very long time. The only downside I can see to using it is that it is a little messy if you apply too much. The grease itself is an insulator and this is what bothers most people. The thing they don't realize is that once you tighten down the terminal bolt the grease is squeezed out of every place where the strap is touching the terminal and there is no loss in conductivity. Greases have been effectively used for over 100 years to keep corrosion out of electrical connections like these. You could probably slightly decrease the resistance if you used a grease with a high percentage of powdered gold in the mix. I doubt that it would be worth it though or conductive greases would be common.

The other problem is keeping the bolts tight. Because if they loosen then your grease doesn't do anything for you and as was pointed out could be a combustion source when the temperature goes up. Some sort of lock washer device is important in a high vibration environment like a vehicle. I use Nordlock washers and have not had any of the 416 bolts on my battery loosen over 5200 miles I have driven so far. I have stopped worrying about it and will probably wait until I get to 10000 miles before I check it again. You don't have to use Nordlocks but you should use something and then check them occasionally with a torque wrench to make sure they are not backing out.


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## clonezero (Oct 16, 2009)

Have a look at "NO-OX-ID A-Special" Electrical Grade Conductive Grease and Electrical Contact Lubricant. I have used this product on my cell terminals with excellent results. The product can be bought on ebay in 2 oz jar that will last a long time as just a small amount is needed after sanding your terminal straps. If you do buy make sure it is "A-Special" as this is the conductive type.

More info here:
http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html


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