# 67 VW Beetle motor - Meiden 60kW EV Motor?



## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

DevonHelpUs said:


> I have a 67 Beetle here in Torbay South Devon in the UK which I would like to convert to Electric...
> 
> Keep coming across these ads for meiden AC 300V (think ex Mitsubishi m-miev) motors (which originally used some form of small gearbox) , what are your thoughts on their suitability and specs etc?
> The beetle has a low hp and only every revs to 3000 rpm about town, but would this higher hp @ 9300 rpm or 14000 rpm "capable" motor produce enough power / torque when limited to the 3000-4000 rpm range with some AC pwm controller?
> ...


These seem to be the front and rear motors from the Outlander PHEV, rather than the i-MiEV; each Outlander motor is more powerful than the one i-MiEV motor.

The front motor is used on a transaxle (from GKN) which also mounts the engine, and generator, and includes gearing between components, a clutch to mechanically connect the engine to the output, and a differential. The rear motor is used on a typical EV transaxle which includes reduction gearing and a differential; the i-MiEV unit has the same design. The entire Outlander PHEV (or i-MiEV) rear drive unit (motor plus transaxle) could be used to drive a Beetle if it would fit (which seems unlikely), or either motor could be adapted to a VW transaxle. The Outlander's front transaxle would be pointless for an EV.

These motors are typical of modern 3-phase permanent magnet motors used in EVs. They can produce a constant torque (limited by current to a level determined by the controller and inverter) up to some transition speed (often around 3000 rpm), then constant power from that point up to nearly their maximum speed. There's no need to keep motor speed down to the VW engine speed; you can spin it faster by leaving the transmission in a lower gear, as long as you don't turn the transaxle input shaft too fast for reliability.

The specs from Second Life don't completely make sense to me: the 60 kW and 70 kW motors are similar, but one is listed at 42 kg and the other at 27 kg... one may be wrong. The 27 kg weight is hard to believe, so they're could be both at least 42 kg (for comparison, a Leaf motor weighs about 58 kg; motor + transaxle weighs about 180 lb or 82 kg), but perhaps the motor listed at 27 kg is actually lighter, producing less torque but at higher speed. The "60 kW" motor linked above is a Meiden Y61; the other 60 kW motor at Second Life is a Meiden S61, presumably from the front of a pre-2020 Outlander PHEV. The "70 kW" motor linked above is presumably from the front of a 2020 Outlander PHEV, and is likely also a Meiden S61. Since Meidensha doesn't sell these motors to individual consumers (only to vehicle manufacturers) official specifications are not available.

If using the VW transaxle, the Y61 rear motor (the 60 kW / 9300 RPM listing at Second Life) is probably more suitable for the shaft speed range acceptable to the transaxle.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

I realize that the above post may be a bit confusing when it gets to the various Outlander PHEV motors. While the motor manufacturer doesn't provide specs, Mitsubishi does...
2019 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER PHEV SPECS
2020 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER PHEV SPECS

These specs make it clear that:

the front motor is the S61, rated at 60 kW and 137 Nm
the rear motor is the Y61, rated at 60 kW and 195 Nm
Second Life claims higher power for the 2020 front motor, but Mitsubishi does not.

The front motor turns up to 50% faster than the rear motor (according to Second Life), but produces only 70% of the torque, so it makes sense that they can both produce the same power. Either one can produce much more torque than an original 1963 Beetle (87 Nm @2400 RPM), and can produce it from zero speed up to something faster than the peak torque speed of the Beetle engine, so...

if minimum weight is valuable and high performance is not needed, the smaller S61 front motor would be preferable; and,
if weight is not critical and higher performance is important, the larger Y61 rear motor would be preferable.
Why would Mitsubishi not just use the lighter higher-speed motor at the rear as well? It likely can't be cooled effectively enough to sustain full output power for very long, it may be less efficient.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

brian_ said:


> These specs make it clear that:
> 
> the front motor is the S61, rated at 60 kW and 137 Nm
> the rear motor is the Y61, rated at 60 kW and 195 Nm


These combinations of power and torque suggest that

the front motor (S61) can probably produce 137 Nm from zero to about 4200 RPM, and
the rear motor (Y61) can probably produce 195 Nm from zero to about 2900 RPM


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## DevonHelpUs (Aug 9, 2020)

Hi Brian

And first, thank you very much for your extremely detailed and informative posts, I confess that I will have re-read them later to better digest...

Interested if anyone has physical experience of any of these with a conversion?

David


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## JoeE13 (Jul 24, 2020)

I know out of budget but I have been referring to this as a real rough guide for parts. I have a type 1 setup in my formula car.








The Lightning Bug


Battery voltage: 296VDC nominal, 336VDC fully charged. Batteries: 80 Xalt Energy High Power 75 ah cells in an 80S configuration. Power: 200HP and 350 ft lbs of torque at 0 RPM. Performance: 0-60 mph...



www.hawkeyeinnovationsllc.com


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

David,

The answer to your question, Brian's thesis summarized, is "yes, it will work" if you limit the RPM and adapt the motor to the VW transaxle. 

You get the _optional_ bonus of 50% more "pep" if you suitably spec your battery pack and decide to deliver rated current to the motor. Otherwise, that can be backed off by about a third to get what you had with the Bug motor.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

JoeE13 said:


> I know out of budget but I have been referring to this as a real rough guide for parts. I have a type 1 setup in my formula car.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Some people still build conversions with that technology, but it's all well out of date, and anyone who describes a WarP 9 as a 200 horsepower motor or calls a sheet of acrylic around the battery "bulletproof" shouldn't be taken too seriously. To be fair 200 hp may be realistic for the few seconds needed in the solo competition car, but a street Beetle is a very different situation.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

brian_ said:


> These combinations of power and torque suggest that
> 
> the front motor (S61) can probably produce 137 Nm from zero to about 4200 RPM, and
> the front motor (Y61) can probably produce 195 Nm from zero to about 2900 RPM


The 70kW "motor" could be the front mounted "generator" used in the Outlander transaxle


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## DevonHelpUs (Aug 9, 2020)

From your supplied photo above and from the images supplied on their web pages, (if they properly show what they are selling,and not " general reference 'ish" photos) I think you may well be correct. 

So should this not be listed for sale as a "motor"?

From my "limited" understanding an alternator can be "made" to work as a motor with some modifications, but should we stay away from the 70kw generator as it would involve extra work? or not?

many thanks

David


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

It would probably work fine as a motor. As a generator, think of it as a motor in permanent regen mode. The oil cooling could be a problem. If the 70(if it is as I suspect) and 60kW motors(generators) mounted on the front transaxle are like other oil cooled motor/generators, they have oil directly sprayed onto the stator windings. The oil probably drains back into a sump in the transaxle, through holes in the motor mounting flange. This would explain the one(as far as I can tell) coolant tube on these motors. This could be a lot of work to set-up properly. The rear motor seems to have a relatively simple anti-freeze(probably not oil) in and out cooling jacket.


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## DevonHelpUs (Aug 9, 2020)

electro wrks said:


> It would probably work fine as a motor. As a generator, think of it as a motor in permanent regen mode. The oil cooling could be a problem. If the 70(if it is as I suspect) and 60kW motors(generators) mounted on the front transaxle are like other oil cooled motor/generators, they have oil directly sprayed onto the stator windings. The oil probably drains back into a sump in the transaxle, through holes in the motor mounting flange. This would explain the one(as far as I can tell) coolant tube on these motors. This could be a lot of work to set-up properly. The rear motor seems to have a relatively simple anti-freeze(probably not oil) in and out cooling jacket.


Thanks for your thoughts, plus the extra info about how the "oil cooling" differs from water cooling... these things are highly appreciated and help educate those of us less knowledgeable from making expensive mistakes!

Important "nuggets of information" which you take for granted like these, need to be jointly compiled (by those in the know) into a stickies for "all newbies" to be able to grasp.

Once again thanks to everyone's time and efforts.

David


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

electro wrks said:


> The 70kW "motor" could be the front mounted "generator" used in the Outlander transaxle
> View attachment 120094


It could be... the generator is likely similar to the motors and should be suitable for higher continuous power than the front motor. And visually it looks like a match - good spotting. 



DevonHelpUs said:


> From your supplied photo above and from the images supplied on their web pages, (if they properly show what they are selling,and not " general reference 'ish" photos) I think you may well be correct.
> 
> So should this not be listed for sale as a "motor"?
> 
> From my "limited" understanding an alternator can be "made" to work as a motor with some modifications, but should we stay away from the 70kw generator as it would involve extra work? or not?


Yes, the photo of the unit listed by Second Life as 70KW EV MOTOR | 14000RPM matches nicely. I assume that Second Life's photos are of the actual units they have... if only because that would be the easiest thing for them to do, and their other information seems to be generally based on measurements of the actual unit rather than by reference to published specifications.

Second Life is selling these as motors, and I don't see a problem with that. For a permanent magnet 3-phase machine, the assignment of "motor" or "generator" describes the way it used, not the machine itself; no modification is required. In some hybrids (such as the Toyota Hybrid Synergy Drive), they're called "motor-generator", because they serve both roles routinely in operation. Even this one - assuming it is the Outlander PHEV "generator" - is used primarily as the generator for series hybrid operation, but presumably also as the starter motor for the engine, and it could even be used as a motor for a high-power burst in parallel hybrid mode if the battery could handle that.

I don't see any problem with the 70 kW unit as a motor, but as is often the case, the real challenge may be with the controller/inverter. Since these motors have not been characterized to determine the parameters appropriate for an aftermarket inverter, it may be easiest to use them with the stock (in the Outlander PHEV) inverters... and the programming of the controller included with that inverter may not be intended to operate it as a motor.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

An updated summary of the Outlander PHEV motor/generators, as listed by Second Life with some specs from Mitsubishi:

generator
similar to Meiden S61
maximum speed 14,000 RPM
oil cooled
can probably produce 160 Nm from zero to about 4200 RPM, or 137 Nm from zero to about 4900 RPM, or some combination between those combinations
Second Life: 70KW EV MOTOR | 14000RPM

front motor
Meiden S61 
maximum speed 14,000 RPM
oil cooled
can probably produce 137 Nm from zero to about 4200 RPM
Second Life: 60KW EV MOTOR | 14000RPM

rear motor
Meiden Y61
maximum speed 9,300 RPM
water cooled
can probably produce 195 Nm from zero to about 2900 RPM
Second Life: 60KW EV MOTOR | 9300RPM


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## JoeE13 (Jul 24, 2020)

Neewb question why quote a max 14000 rpm but, "can probably produce 160 Nm from zero to about 4200 RPM, or 137 Nm from zero to about 4900 RPM, or some combination between those combinations" if the motor only really produces power to maybe 5000 rpm??


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

JoeE13 said:


> Neewb question why quote a max 14000 rpm but, "can probably produce 160 Nm from zero to about 4200 RPM, or 137 Nm from zero to about 4900 RPM, or some combination between those combinations" if the motor only really produces power to maybe 5000 rpm??


I didn't say that "the motor only really produces power to maybe 5000 rpm". That would be like saying that any engine only really produces power to just above the peak torque speed.

The combination of fundamental motor characteristics and typical practices in controller/inverter design and programming mean that typical modern EV motors have a constant torque limit at low speed, corresponding to a current limit. The torque values quoted here for zero to whatever correspond to that current limit and resulting torque.
As motor speed increases, eventually that torque multiplied by motor speed equals the rated power output of the motor; that's the 4200 to 4900 RPM in this example. That's a transition speed.

In case this doesn't immediately make sense, note that mechanical power is the product of shaft speed and torque (literally multiply speed and torque in consistent units, and get power in the same system of units).

Above that transition speed, motor power is held constant (to limit battery power draw, or inverter heat handling capacity, or motor heat handling capacity, or whatever). That means that as speed increases torque decreases, but this isn't bad - it's ideal.  It means that you can run the motor at essentially any speed you want, and the same power (the motor's full rated power) is available; for this Meiden motor that's the entire range from 4900 RPM or less to close to 14,000 RPM. This is why EV's don't usually have multiple transmission ratios - they don't need them.

The normal gearing design approach for an EV is to choose the ratio of motor to axle speed so that the motor is running at its maximum speed (14,000 RPM in this case) when the vehicle is driving at the maximum speed allowed (commonly about 150 km/h or 90 MPH for an ordinary car). Then full power is available from maximum speed all the way down to about one-third of that (50 km/h or 30 MPH). Below that low speed available power is limited by the torque limit, but that's usually all that the vehicle needs, anyway, as it is traction-limited.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Considering this possibility...


brian_ said:


> The rear motor is used on a typical EV transaxle which includes reduction gearing and a differential; the i-MiEV unit has the same design. The entire Outlander PHEV (or i-MiEV) rear drive unit (motor plus transaxle) could be used to drive a Beetle if it would fit...


A member here is currently building a conversion using the Outlander rear unit:
Mini Marcos EV Conversion
This might be interesting to anyone considering this motor, even in a vehicle other than a Mini.



brian_ said:


> While the motor manufacturer doesn't provide specs, Mitsubishi does...
> 2019 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER PHEV SPECS
> 2020 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER PHEV SPECS
> 
> ...







brian_ said:


> These combinations of power and torque suggest that
> 
> ...
> the rear motor (Y61) can probably produce 195 Nm from zero to about 2900 RPM




If the motor is turning at 2900 RPM, and if the transaxle gear ratio is 6:1 (just a guess for the Outlander rear unit, I can't find the spec) then the axles would turn at 483 RPM or 29,000 revolutions per hour. With tires of the same overall diameter (25.4" or 645 mm) as the stock 1967 Beetle tires (165SR15 ), that corresponds to a road speed of 59 km/h (37 mph). So

At any speed from a standstill up to about 60 km/h the same torque would available, of about 1,200 Nm (885 lb-ft) - just 195 Nm multiplied by the gear ratio of 6:1. That corresponds to 3600 newtons (810 lb), enough to initially accelerate a tonne (1000 kg or 2200 pounds) of converted Beetle and driver at 3.6 m/s2, which is pretty good.
From about 60 km/h up, a constant 60 kW would be available, which is more than a stock Beetle has at any speed even if the speed and gear combination puts the engine at its optimal power point.
The maximum motor speed of 9300 RPM would correspond to about 190 km/h, but the car wouldn't be able to reach that speed with 60 kW.
If the reduction ratio is higher (and it likely is) the maximum speed would be lower but performance would be better.


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## DevonHelpUs (Aug 9, 2020)

Thanks for the follow ups / extra info and link to Mini Marcos EV Conversion using the i-miev setup including him hoping to (modify the stock controller/inverter).
Wonder how he is getting on with this project and ability to hack the stock Mitsubishi electronics in particular...


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## DevonHelpUs (Aug 9, 2020)

Thanks to pickmeup for info to look at the openinverter forum which now has a very new section on Mitsubishi motor stuff



Mitsubishi - openinverter forum








Mitsubishi Outlander Rear Drive Unit - openinverter.org wiki







openinverter.org


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

I noticed an interesting set of specs in a Mitsubishi web page:
*Electric Motor Details*

*Front Motor*Rated Output kW (PS)25 (35)Maximum Output kW (PS)60 (82)Maximum Torque Nm (lb.ft)137 (101)*Rear Motor*Rated Output kW (PS)30 (41)Maximum Output kW (PS)70 (95)Maximum Torque Nm (lb.ft)195 (144)

The peak torque and power values are the same, but this is the first that I have seen of lower continuous power ratings.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

DevonHelpUs said:


> Mitsubishi Outlander Rear Drive Unit - openinverter.org wiki
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This thread has a comment which makes an interesting point: the Outlander rear motor is placed behind the axle line (like a Tesla Model S/X), not ahead of the axle line (like all of the EV designs adapted from conventional front wheel drive vehicles, and the i-MiEV). This is relevant to where the complete drive unit (motor plus transaxle) would fit and be usable without running it in reverse of the normal rotation.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

An OpenInverter thread contains a post which lists the rear drive unit ratio as 7.065:1. Substituting that value for my rough guess of 6:1 in my earlier example:


brian_ said:


> If the motor is turning at 2900 RPM, and if the transaxle gear ratio is _7.065:1_ then the axles would turn at _410_ RPM or _24,628_ revolutions per hour. With tires of the same overall diameter (25.4" or 645 mm) as the stock 1967 Beetle tires (165SR15 ), that corresponds to a road speed of _50_ km/h (_31_ mph). So
> 
> At any speed from a standstill up to about _50_ km/h the same torque would available, of about _1,378_ Nm (_1016 _lb-ft) - just 195 Nm multiplied by the gear ratio of _7.065:1_. That corresponds to _4272_ newtons (_960 _lb), enough to initially accelerate a tonne (1000 kg or 2200 pounds) of converted Beetle and driver at _4.2_ m/s2, which is pretty good.
> From about _50_ km/h up, a constant 60 kW would be available, which is more than a stock Beetle has at any speed even if the speed and gear combination puts the engine at its optimal power point.
> The maximum motor speed of 9300 RPM would correspond to about _160_ km/h, but the car might not be able to reach that speed with 60 kW.


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## 180jacob (Jan 12, 2018)

Hi David,
I live in Newton abbot and have a whole outlander front transaxle (both motor/generators and the gearbox plus wiring) arriving on Monday. It was a bit of an impulse buy but it was cheap. I plan on getting it running with my gen3 Prius inverter with OpenInverter logic board over Christmas. Not sure how far you have progressed your project in the last 3 months but I can keep you informed with my progress and you are welcome to pop round once I have something running if you like? I will probably end up selling at least one motor once I'm done with it, I haven't actually got a car for it to go in myself, the cars are more for a friend of mine to sort out, he wants something for his mk1 mini and an Austin 10, I'm just interested/excited to do the electrical/electronic bit.
Regards,
Jacob


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## bigpie (Dec 14, 2017)

I'm in the same position. I have both motor and generator, and gearbox from the front. 

I've torn down the one designated as motor here Mitsubishi Outlander Front Transaxle - openinverter.org wiki

Also attempting to run with a gen 3 prius inverter and open inverter logic board.

Myself and another open inverter member are trying this combination, me in a modern beetle and him in a BMW Z3. 

We've discovered some ford clutch friction plates are a good match for the spline pattern.

We've not yet discovered good parameters to run FOC. I now think it has 4 pole pairs, not sure on the resolver pole pairs or a good syncofs.

It would be good to combine efforts.


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## 180jacob (Jan 12, 2018)

bigpie said:


> I'm in the same position. I have both motor and generator, and gearbox from the front.
> 
> I've torn down the one designated as motor here Mitsubishi Outlander Front Transaxle - openinverter.org wiki
> 
> ...


Hi Yes, I have been lurking on the open inverter forum for quite some time reading about everyone's projects but haven't had the time to get involved until now (was doing an open Uni degree alongside work and doing up my house). I have bought myself a collection of parts as a 'starter kit' so I can experiment and contribute, got 2006 RX400H MGR with shafts and loom £200, 2014 prius inverter £120, outlander front gearbox with motors and loom £290 all delivered. Just working on adapting the design of the v1d logic board to fit my inverter now then will get some made and test out over Christmas. I have set up drives for pmsm at work in the past but only commercial stuff that all comes with instructions and datasheets, this is like trying to do a jigsaw without the picture!
Definitely up for combining efforts, you guys have quite a head start on me but I will try my best to catch up without being too much of a burden. Regarding motor pole count, is it possible to run it slowly in open loop and see how fast it turns for a given frequency? as for resolver I will can do some testing at work while I wait for logic boards to arive.


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## bigpie (Dec 14, 2017)

180jacob said:


> Hi Yes, I have been lurking on the open inverter forum for quite some time reading about everyone's projects but haven't had the time to get involved until now (was doing an open Uni degree alongside work and doing up my house). I have bought myself a collection of parts as a 'starter kit' so I can experiment and contribute, got 2006 RX400H MGR with shafts and loom £200, 2014 prius inverter £120, outlander front gearbox with motors and loom £290 all delivered. Just working on adapting the design of the v1d logic board to fit my inverter now then will get some made and test out over Christmas. I have set up drives for pmsm at work in the past but only commercial stuff that all comes with instructions and datasheets, this is like trying to do a jigsaw without the picture!
> Definitely up for combining efforts, you guys have quite a head start on me but I will try my best to catch up without being too much of a burden. Regarding motor pole count, is it possible to run it slowly in open loop and see how fast it turns for a given frequency? as for resolver I will can do some testing at work while I wait for logic boards to arive.


I've put an led across 2 phases and turned the motor, and played it back slowly. Gives 4 blinks per rev, meaning 4 pole pairs, according to the YouTube video I took the idea from. You look to have got some decent deals there.


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## 180jacob (Jan 12, 2018)

That's a good idea with the LED, just tried it out on a known motor and works great, so simple as well. Resolver obviously needs exciting to test properly, as I haven't got any logic boards yet I cant have a go just now.


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## bigpie (Dec 14, 2017)

Apparently the 4 lobes on the shaft means it's likely a 4 pole pair resolver.

I'm going to try running through the FOC tuning video now the pole pairs question is answered, but I haven't got a battery pack at the moment, only rectified mains and the incandescent light bulb as a current limiter.


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## 180jacob (Jan 12, 2018)

Ah yes that answers that, I had had a quick look at the data/catalogue for that series sinlysun series of resolvers and seen the bit about the roto shape ( you have probably already seen it but attached here anyway) but couldn't see a picture of it on the motor wiki and haven't taken mine to pieces yet. Good luck trying it out, I'm looking forward to joining in with the experimentation as soon as I can.


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## bigpie (Dec 14, 2017)

4 pole pairs both motor and resolver. Syncofs 46550.

Only bench tuned but seems ok so far.


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## devonhelpusagain (Dec 8, 2020)

180jacob said:


> Hi David,
> I live in Newton abbot and have a whole outlander front transaxle (both motor/generators and the gearbox plus wiring) arriving on Monday. It was a bit of an impulse buy but it was cheap. I plan on getting it running with my gen3 Prius inverter with OpenInverter logic board over Christmas. Not sure how far you have progressed your project in the last 3 months but I can keep you informed with my progress and you are welcome to pop round once I have something running if you like? I will probably end up selling at least one motor once I'm done with it, I haven't actually got a car for it to go in myself, the cars are more for a friend of mine to sort out, he wants something for his mk1 mini and an Austin 10, I'm just interested/excited to do the electrical/electronic bit.
> Regards,
> Jacob


HI Jacob
Sorry for the delay, i seem to be unable to reply for no apparent reason.... have requested several times for assistance but no idea what is happening sadly.... hopefully this will be fixed soon so i can reply to my own thread.... so as i didnt wish to appear rude i had to register again.... hahahahahahaha

would love to chat, come see maybe spring time how things are going, if things go better in the world over the next few months....
had a mini copper (or pile of rust and oil as my mother called it) back in the day, hope the throttle power delivery settings will be dialled down on the austin 10 or you could twist the rear diff out of the leaf springs, that is if the tyres can purchase anywhere near enough grip.... (just joking)
david


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## 180jacob (Jan 12, 2018)

devonhelpusagain said:


> HI Jacob
> Sorry for the delay, i seem to be unable to reply for no apparent reason.... have requested several times for assistance but no idea what is happening sadly.... hopefully this will be fixed soon so i can reply to my own thread.... so as i didnt wish to appear rude i had to register again.... hahahahahahaha


Hi David,
Well that makes two of us, I didn't get a notification about your message and consequently forgot all about this thread. Sorry about that. I have however made some progress over Christmas and now (like several others) have the outlander motors running on the bench. I am writing everything up here: Project TBC (learn some stuff) - openinverter forum
I have just received a BMW battery so I can get everything bench tested together then once restrictions are eased it can start to go in a car. Engine has just blown up on my friends MGB so that is looking like it will jump to the front of the queue for conversion as it was a nice road worthy car. On paper the spec of the outlander motor looks quite well matched to the MG but only testing will confirm. Joking aside it would indeed need limiting for the Austin!


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## devonhelpusagain (Dec 8, 2020)

180jacob said:


> Hi David,
> Well that makes two of us, I didn't get a notification about your message and consequently forgot all about this thread. Sorry about that. I have however made some progress over Christmas and now (like several others) have the outlander motors running on the bench. I am writing everything up here: Project TBC (learn some stuff) - openinverter forum
> I have just received a BMW battery so I can get everything bench tested together then once restrictions are eased it can start to go in a car. Engine has just blown up on my friends MGB so that is looking like it will jump to the front of the queue for conversion as it was a nice road worthy car. On paper the spec of the outlander motor looks quite well matched to the MG but only testing will confirm. Joking aside it would indeed need limiting for the Austin!


Hi Jacob
will take a look at your openinverter link, many thanks
David


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