# building your own J1772 plug



## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

I was just wondering if anyone has tried to build their own J1772 plug?

I would like to be able to charge and some of the new charging stations but I really don't have $200 or more to throw away right now on an adapter.


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

A DIY for $10 maybe .

Sory, I couldn't help. 

Everything is possible if you have the right tools and materials, but won't be cheap.


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

the DIY for $10 is an excellent idea, 
and right in line with my price range.
I just need to figure out how to pour plastic to make the housing.


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

I apologize again, like I said , I couldn't help.

Don't you need a mold ? 
That's the problem, by the time you make a mold or machine the plastic, you will spend too much time and money. But I will be happy if you can prove me wrong.

Welcome to this forum too.


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

walmart has some adapter plugs that are about the size of a hockey puck, 
with the male end on one side and the female on the other side.
I probably can't make one quite that small, 
but I was thinking you just need something round and about 1.5 inches or so,
(I need to measure one to find out the exact size)
and then position the 4 or 5 pins inside it,
attach the wires and pour the plastic in.
it just doesn't seem like it would be that hard to do.
I am going to go to the plastics store and see what they have for some type of liquid fast drying plastic.


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## Electroddy (Dec 29, 2009)

How about a good Epoxy with milled glass fiber? It can be molded and will be pretty strong and electrically insulating.


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

I like your epoxy idea a lot. I don't know anything about milled glass fiber,
will have to look into that.

if I put the whole thing in a small piece of PVC pipe, that would make a good container and might provide more protection.

any ideas where I could buy some pins? or something that I could modify to make a round pin?

it still looks to me like it would not be that hard to make this adapter for under $10.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

http://www.shapeways.com/search?q=j1772

just need some way to make the pins.....


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

that shapeway thing looks pretty cool, 
but it says "not for sale".
if they would sell a plastic one for $5 that would be even more cool.


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## corbin (Apr 6, 2010)

Electroid said:


> I was just wondering if anyone has tried to build their own J1772 plug?
> 
> I would like to be able to charge and some of the new charging stations but I really don't have $200 or more to throw away right now on an adapter.


You don't mean plug; you mean a J1772 inlet. And what you'll have to do is pull the pilot signal down with a resistor for the station to come on. 

If you do mean plug:
http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/J1772CableSources


The inlet alone is $110 from Tucson EV. 


corbin


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

ok thanks, I am very new to all this so I don't know much of the terminology.

I have heard about the pilot signal, I still need to find out how it works.

my car uses a NEMA plug to charge, so what I am hoping for is an adapter that has the J1772 inlet on one side and my NEMA plug on the other side so I can plug it into my car then use a J1772 charging station to charge my car,
I also need a pilot signal to turn it on. 
hopefully that won't destroy my $10 budget.


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## corbin (Apr 6, 2010)

Electroid said:


> ok thanks, I am very new to all this so I don't know much of the terminology.
> 
> I have heard about the pilot signal, I still need to find out how it works.
> 
> ...


There's no way you can do it for $10. I don't know how you could even buy a standard 30amp inlet for $10.

corbin


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

you are right, I have looked hard and it's difficult to buy an inlet for under $100

that's how I came up with my idea to make the inlet, it's just plastic, pins, and wire. 
(or in my case probably epoxy)
This doesn't seem like it should be that expensive to me.

I still have to find the pins to go inside, and I need to find out what electronics are required for the pilot signal.

So it's not complete yet, but hopefully we will have an operational adapter for around $10 in a week or so.


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## Ektus (Feb 15, 2011)

corbin said:


> There's no way you can do it for $10. I don't know how you could even buy a standard 30amp inlet for $10.
> 
> corbin


In Europe, there would be the option to use CEE inlets. Those can be got pretty cheap, but the copper cables are expensive.

5-PIN 32A CEE plug EUR 3,75 (5$)
http://www.reichelt.de/CEE-Steckver...D=3402&ARTICLE=29106&SHOW=1&START=0&OFFSET=16

10m 32A 5-pin CEE extension cord with plugs:
http://www.reichelt.de/CEE-Steckver...D=3402&ARTICLE=52789&SHOW=1&START=0&OFFSET=16

Regards
Ektus.


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

A good 3 minute pouring epoxy will cost fifteen to twenty dollars for a one pound kit. There are different grades of flexibility so price may vary. 1# kit looks like it will be enough for the handle and main body of the plug. What do you plan to make the mold and pattern out of ? You will need a mold release. Paste wax works sometimes. You will need someway to hold the pins and wires in place as you pour. You can do it but to do it right will not be simple or cost just $10.


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

it's a shame those CEE inlets don't have the same pin configuration, they would be a great source for a cheap solution.

about the mold, I have a few different ideas, not sure how practical any of them are?

first idea - I have made a few things with plaster and it's really easy to work with, maybe the lost wax process? 

second idea - put the whole thing inside some PVC pipe, that way I could use the PVC for the mold and just use maybe an inch of epoxy to hold the pins in place. The tricky part would be to make it small enough but still be able to get everything inside of it.

start with something like this:









the inlet would be on one side, and then my NEMA would be on the other.

I happen to live next to a broken unused charging station, it has the J1772 charging handle and I just need to clean out the bugs that are living in it, then I could use it to take an impression for my mold.

I am a little concerned about the weight of the handle, and the longer my adapter is the more a problem this is going to be, if I can't make it small enough then 
my third idea would be to add some wire to it and then lay the charging handle on the ground like most other people are doing.


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## Ace_bridger (Nov 22, 2011)

Model it in 3D (Solidworks, etc), get an SLA rapid prototype made, create a soft mould of the SLA model in silicon (place the SLA model in a container and pour in silicon, cure and then carefully cut the mould in half and wrestle the SLA out then you're left with the mould in two halves ready for the epoxy) and then use the mould to create the part in epoxy.

Or just create an SLA and use that. They're pretty good nowadays and very much like ABS.


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## corbin (Apr 6, 2010)

Hi! So did you get this done for your $10 goal? (I still have serious doubts)

corbin


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

corbin said:


> Hi! So did you get this done for your $10 goal? (I still have serious doubts)
> 
> corbin


Things like this take time. Give him a couple more days.


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## corbin (Apr 6, 2010)

dragonsgate said:


> Things like this take time. Give him a couple more days.


LOL..okay! The only way I see this as being remotely possible:
1. Already have your own CNC or manual milling machine (and be really good at using it)
2. Buy a chunk of plastic for $5 and machine the 3d shape you need
3. Buy a chuck of aluminum for $5 and machine the pins

corbin


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## dragonsgate (May 19, 2012)

It is going to take some equipment and time to do it but this is a DIY after all so more power to you Electroid. It is a good feeling when you build something from practically nothing and it works. Then there are those projects that take way more time than you planed on and as much or more money than the part you are trying to duplicate because you needed a special tool or two. I have enjoyed both victory and defeat in such projects and I have some nice tools to show for it.


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

thank you for the encouragement.

I have mostly been just waiting on some of the parts, 
I didn't have a female NEMA plug, but found one on ebay for $5

also had to find a switch to turn it on and off,

my current plan is to try and put the whole thing in some PCV pipe then use epoxy to hold the pins together.

I may be running into a little design problem in that I am not sure I can get all the wires, pins, and everything inside something this small. I am sure it's not that hard to do but I am just not sure I can do it.

the other problem is that the J1772 handle has enough weight to it that I am not sure the connection on my car will be able to support it by just plugging it in.

so I may need to add some wire to it and have it lay on the ground, or in my trunk.

either way I am closer and currently still within my budget, but not ready to charge my car just yet. 

here is what I have so far:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## bruceme (Dec 10, 2008)

I'm going to build my own as well. I mic'd the one that came with my Leaf and got exact measurements.










I think the easiest thing to do is to have a precise insert fabricated that fits tightly into a standard 1-1/4" PVC pipe. I'll use a small screw for the alignment key. I'm going to use various sizes of aluminum tubing cut length wise to expand for the pin sockets. The wires will be brazed/soldered to the tubing. When I get close to done, I'll start thinking more about the latch and strain relief.

You can go here to see it if you're interested. I wouldn't make it yet as I doubt it actually fits well. That usually takes a couple tries.

http://shpws.me/nn14

-Bruce


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

good luck with your project, let us know how you are progressing.

I gave up on the PVC pipe, I tried several different sizes but was never able to come up with anything that worked.

also, adding the switch and other parts made it so that I was not able to keep it to a size that would fit in a small pipe, you would need to get very very fancy with your soldering which is a little beyond my skill level.

so I now have 3 sections the middle one is a small box with the switch and other parts, I used a dental floss plastic box and it seemed about the right size.

I can't remember if I posted this or not, but the electrical parts someone gave to me, they said they cost a few cents. Or you can order them off ebay for a couple bucks.

I went out this morning to test it, but the J1772 by my house does not work, I drove to a 2nd one but it was in use, so I will have to check back tomorrow to see if everything I have is working. 
once I confirm that it does charge, my latest plan is to go back to using epoxy to hold it together.


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## bruceme (Dec 10, 2008)

btw... I'm also building the open evse controller, I wouldn't be surprised if my Leaf won't energize if you don't actually send it the square wave on Pin 3.

-Bruce


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## bruceme (Dec 10, 2008)

Oh my! Like a glove, I wouldn't have designed it better!

1-1/4" 45-degree-bent PVC conduit fitting perfectly in a J1772 receptacle.


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## Electroid (Nov 23, 2012)

looks like a winner, I didn't see anything like that when I was looking around Home Depot.

I did get my adapter working today, and charged my car for the first time. I still have some work to do on the housing, I just took the pins and put them in one at a time today just to test it.
but when I epoxy everything together it will be done.
and I ended up spending less than $10 
but to pay full retail for everything could cost you as much as $20


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## bruceme (Dec 10, 2008)

The socket receptor came back from the 3D printer... Fits like a glove. I love it when a plan comes together!

































More Pictures


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

BruceMe,

Those 3D printers are just the bomb. That looks sweet. I was a bit skeptical but thought about a 3D printer and here you are with one already done.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

I thought it was pretty awesome when I could buy a laser printer for $40. Can't wait till 3Ds get under $100.

There are some that will scan and reproduce an adjustable wrench that's fully functional and stronger than the original.


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## MN Driver (Sep 29, 2009)

Ziggythewiz said:


> I thought it was pretty awesome when I could buy a laser printer for $40. Can't wait till 3Ds get under $100.
> 
> There are some that will scan and reproduce an adjustable wrench that's fully functional and stronger than the original.


The Urbee is a 3D printed car. Some Youtube videos of it and blogs in various places. Technically a 3-wheeled motorcycle by DMV standards, the front wheels are skirted to reduce aero drag and always drive straight, rear steering, with a hybrid setup for drivetrain. Two motors, I think Agni style. I'd rather have the drivetrain weight be all electric but I thought it was a unique design. They tried to take part in the Progressive X-prize but I think they weren't big enough to do it.


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## njloof (Nov 21, 2011)

Ziggythewiz said:


> I thought it was pretty awesome when I could buy a laser printer for $40. Can't wait till 3Ds get under $100.


It'll probably happen when they figure out how to make proprietary plastic spools, like they do for ink cartridges


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## valerun (Nov 12, 2010)

bruceme said:


> The socket receptor came back from the 3D printer... Fits like a glove. I love it when a plan comes together!
> 
> [/URL]


This is pretty cool stuff!

What is your estimate of the total cost for going this way? Materials, etc. Would be cool to have this as a part of open source EVSE. J1772 connector is the most expensive item by far - even if bought from China...

V


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## bruceme (Dec 10, 2008)

Oh, it would be cheap if I got a die made. $5? add the pins and a bung stopper for strain relief. $20 whole thing. The trick is the latch, but honestly, It's not required. It stays in on it's own just fine and should it pop off, the relay kicks off the current before the big sparks.

-Bruce


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## valerun (Nov 12, 2010)

bruceme said:


> Oh, it would be cheap if I got a die made. $5? add the pins and a bung stopper for strain relief. $20 whole thing. The trick is the latch, but honestly, It's not required. It stays in on it's own just fine and should it pop off, the relay kicks off the current before the big sparks.
> 
> -Bruce


what about 3d-printed? Do you have a write-up somewhere on how you assembled the thing?


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## bruceme (Dec 10, 2008)

valerun said:


> what about 3d-printed? Do you have a write-up somewhere on how you assembled the thing?


No, not yet. The insert is the tricky part and that fits nicely. I need to find pins that fit. I have dimensions, anyone know how to source female solder lug pins this size?

-B


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## bruceme (Dec 10, 2008)

There are three sizes of pins (I mic'd the male pins in mm).

3.58mm or 0.141"
2.75mm or 0.108"
1.41mm or 0.056"

I know the J1772 standard is metric

I'm looking for a supplier like this... but US

http://www.cableglandsindia.com/man...ical-plug-pins/brass-electrical-plug-pins.htm


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## JoulesErg (Dec 4, 2013)

I found a reference that says the pin diameters are 1.5mm, 2.8mm, and 3.6mm:

http://img.directindustry.com/pdf/r...-solutions-ev-hev-applications-206239_10b.jpg

These are not standard sizes. I found these for the 3.6mm ones:

socket: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1682290000/281-3138-ND/487804
pin: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1682280000/281-3122-ND/487803

"Contact size 16" is 1.55mm. These are cheap:

socket: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1-66360-2/A31997-ND/808395
pin: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1-66359-5/A100422CT-ND/2233100

I can't find anything close to 2.8mm. I'll try kludging something with Molex PC power connectors if nothing else.


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## bruceme (Dec 10, 2008)

JoulesErg said:


> I found a reference that says the pin diameters are 1.5mm, 2.8mm, and 3.6mm
> 
> [snip]
> 
> I can't find anything close to 2.8mm. I'll try kludging something with Molex PC power connectors if nothing else.


Thanks... This is great. I bought six each of 3.6, 1.55 and three 2.5mm sockets. I'll try drilling the 2.55 out... may work, who knows.


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