# Potentiometer issue worth hungarian controller.



## Eddie49 (Dec 6, 2018)

Does the documentation for the Controller say anything about min/max values for the pot?
If a swap to 5K would not exceed any limits, the effect would be the same as rotating the current pot by 90 degrees.
Alternatively, you could replace the long arm of the pot box with a small pulley, attach the cable to the rim, and get more pot shaft rotation for the same cable movement.


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## MattAO (Sep 29, 2019)

Eddie49 said:


> Does the documentation for the Controller say anything about min/max values for the pot?
> If a swap to 5K would not exceed any limits, the effect would be the same as rotating the current pot by 90 degrees.
> Alternatively, you could replace the long arm of the pot box with a small pulley, attach the cable to the rim, and get more pot shaft rotation for the same cable movement.


It doesn't specify anywhere in the documentation the size of the potentiometer. It came with the 10K. I can grab a 5k from the local shop and at least try it. I thought about using the rotational pulley cam type similar to the original throttle body. I still have that. I could probably Fab up something to make it connect and work.


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## MattAO (Sep 29, 2019)

ekthor said:


> Hi Matt,
> 
> What motor are you using? It what vehicle? What is your battery voltage and chemistry?
> 
> ...


We are using a Advanced DC 48v forklift pump motor its 8" diameter. We are in a 94 Geo Prizm manual transmission without a clutch. We are using 144v li-ion. We also have done some testing with 72v Lead acid. Both seem to work fine. The biggest thing is the Throttle we are trying to make proper. The potentiometer just has to far of a rotation. You don't get max amperage through until you hit the end of it and the pot box only rotates about 45-60 degrees not the full 300. 

Got a 5k to install and try that. I also want to look into a cam rotation like the original throttle body. 

The controller is fine just make sure you setup right. There is a EN pin that you have to link to the ground pin that was not mentioned in the documentation anywhere. The seller on ebay was super helpful getting the thing working. Also have a heat sink as big as you can manage along with a fan.


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## MattAO (Sep 29, 2019)

Ok tried 5k pot still not what i need. I really need to get it to the ends for full power. Any suggestions?


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## feathermerchant (Nov 12, 2018)

Use a pulley on the potentiometer and cable to the pedal to turn the potentiometer. A lever won't rotate the shaft of the potentiometer thru its whole travel.


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## MattAO (Sep 29, 2019)

feathermerchant said:


> Use a pulley on the potentiometer and cable to the pedal to turn the potentiometer. A lever won't rotate the shaft of the potentiometer thru its whole travel.


I will attempt that. I have a elliptical cam from the original throttle body. If that doesn't work I might got for a full round pulley.


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## MattAO (Sep 29, 2019)

ekthor said:


> Matt,
> 
> Have you considered the use of a 0-5V throttle pedal? As I read in their eBay ad and manual:


I had not specifically I was going with what I had but at this point i'm looking. 



ekthor said:


> So I think you can change the type of throttle and use one 0-5V Hall Effect Throttle PEDALs, some of them are quite ergonomic. Kelly Controller sells those at a good price, I've used them in several conversions and they work superb, as opposed to the 0-5K Curtis POTBOX or maybe yours.
> 
> Kelly is out of business this days due to the Chineese Virus. I have 3 brand-new throttles in case you need one I can sell it at the list price, no profit here.
> 
> I will order one of those controllers from Hungary, in my case they have not answered any question regarding the use of their controller. For example:


 I made my potbox but I might look into a manufactured one. I think they use a different rotation or maybe a 90deg pot. 

I would be very intersted in one of those throttles can you offer some more information about it, and Price?



ekthor said:


> 1) In need to be able to limit current, but their documentation does not differentiate between motor current or battery current.


The only current limiter is the dip switch that caps it at 200a and then they have a rhesotat on the board that limits it a bit as well. Both are from the battery supply side.



ekthor said:


> 2) In order to turn the controller ON (KSI ON): Do you provide 12V or the whole battery pack voltage? I think you simply turn the Main Contactor ON, please confirm.


Full voltage with a precharge for the inrush. Depending on the voltage you just need a contactor with a resistor across the contacts. 



ekthor said:


> 3) I'm interested in entering into programming/configuring mode, but they do not specify tools, like a GUI, wizzards or tutorials. Have you entered into this mode?
> 
> Regards


I have not entered in the programming the default programming seems sufficient for my usage atm.


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## skweeks_n_leeks (Dec 29, 2019)

I’ve had my eye on one of these for awhile. Glad someone is testing it out. Following this thread.


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