# Non Conductive Component Mounting Material



## PeterH (Mar 20, 2009)

Hi there,

I'd like to have a place to mount a number of small components under the hood. Something like a piece of 1/2 inch think, 6 inch wide and 28 inch long piece of UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) Polyethylene Sheet. I'd mount this on the firewall, above the motor and everything else in the engine compartment.

This is where I'd mount things like varous relays, contactors, fuses, indicators, terminal strips etc. I'm trying to wrap this build up so it has a nice clean, professional look with everything easy to access... or at least as much as possible.

My question: Is this the best choice of material for this sort of use or is there something better suited to this application?

I've used a big sheet of 1/8 inch aluminum across the engine compartment, above the engine, as a place to mount the controller, DC/DC, charger, BMS, and throttle. Technically, I guess I could use a strip of aluminum for this application also, but I'd prefer a non-conductive surface.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Peter H.


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## DJBecker (Nov 3, 2010)

We use HDPE. More than we should. It's definitely not the best choice. The melting point is lower than we would like, it pretty much can't be glued, and it sags over time. But it's soooo easy to cut, drill, or make a nut captive by melting it in with a soldering iron.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

I have used common Plexi-glass or even fiberglass to mount electric items, Miz


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## MalcolmB (Jun 10, 2008)

Phenolic sheet is a good alternative. Used to be known as bakelite and is sold as Tufnol in the UK: http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/Tufnol_Sheet.html


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## Brute Force (Aug 28, 2010)

I prefer to use GPO3 electrical grade laminate:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-grade-fiberglass-(gpo3)/=g47gui

It doesn't melt, is flame retardant, comes in lots of shapes and sizes, and is not very expensive.


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## coulombKid (Jan 10, 2009)

Within switchgear boxes one finds hard red lumps of non-conductive material with a stud molded into both ends. They are manufactured for the temperatures and voltages we encounter. We used them at Gould in the electroplating process and many of the 460/4160 volt boxes here use them. I see if I can whistle up a picture.

Ahh, here we go. Check out this link. With the fiberglass reinforcement they may be able to handle rough road shock loads.

http://www.stormcopper.com/Electrical-Insulators.htm


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## PeterH (Mar 20, 2009)

Wow, I guess weekends are the time for responses!!  Thanks for all the great ideas and sources!

I got zero done this weekend... ski conditions just too perfect to ignore and then we had that big football game on today... Surprised we didn't see any commercials for any of the current OEM EVs.

Pete


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## coulombKid (Jan 10, 2009)

MalcolmB said:


> Phenolic sheet is a good alternative. Used to be known as bakelite and is sold as Tufnol in the UK: http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/Tufnol_Sheet.html


The bakelite I grew up with was a molded product that fractured easily. The Phenolic sheet I've seen here in the states was a linen cloth laminate with a high temperature resin impregnated into it. Very fine, tough, expensive product.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

I've had good luck with 1/4 thick polypro sheet... supported with aluminum 'edges' would be fine. Its got a fairly high melt point, but must be heat-welded as it cannot be glued. very easy to work with.


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## NabilAhmad (Feb 26, 2011)

Lexan is great stuff. Easily machined and can take threads well. Also easy to form with some heat. Ips weld-on line of solvent welding "glue" works well. Check your local sign companies for drop pieces.


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