# [EVDL] Possibly over sped Warp 9 motor -- what to do?



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Many local motor shops normally balance a motor after it is repair. The 
shop I have can even balance engines. Take the rotor to the motor shops and 
it only takes about 15 minutes to balance the rotor.

If you think you have field winding damage from the balancing putty, then 
take the whole motor to the motor shop.

If the rotor is found damage, they will send it to the Warfield company 
which sells the NET GAIN motors to the dealers.

My GE-11 motor which was running for 10 years from 75 to 85 which was the 
recommended time to pull the motor and have the rotor turn and undercut, 
replace the brushes and brush springs if require, replace the bearings, meg 
test all rotor and field windings and have it re-enamel.

Every time a motor is re-condition, the motor shops checks and balances the 
rotor.

Install a speed sensor which is made by NET GAIN for the WarP motors. If 
the front of your WarP motor is not tap for the bolts that hold on the speed 
sensor, this is the time to tap thread holes in the front motor cover while 
it is off the motor.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "corbin dunn" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 10:32 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Possibly over sped Warp 9 motor -- what to do?


> Hi All,
> Well, after 15k miles on my Plug Bug conversion I had a problem last
> Friday.
>
> Details and pictures are here:
> http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/2012/04/plug-bug-15000-miles-then-a-breakdown/
>
> Long story short: The spline on the clutch disk shredded away, and let the
> motor free spin. I have a WarP Drive controller, which does not have an
> overspeed sensor input (if it did, it might have cut the power sooner than
> my foot on the throttle).
>
> The motor has some small ceramic looking pieces that fell to the bottom of
> it; I believe they are balancing putty, as the comm looks fine.
>
> The motor seems to be spinning okay, but I haven't tested it with a load.
>
> Is it okay to drop it back in my car and use it? Or, should I mail it off
> somewhere and get it overhauled? If so, where? (back to Netgain?)
>
> thanks!
> --corbin
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Roland,
Thanks for the reply; I guess I'm mainly curious if there is anything I can
do myself to see if things are alright. How hard is it to balance a motor
or inspect it for damage?

I do have a speed sensor, however, it doesn't do me any good since the WarP
Drive controller does not have an input for it.

corbin



> Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > Many local motor shops normally balance a motor after it is repair. The
> > shop I have can even balance engines. Take the rotor to the motor shops
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> corbin dunn wrote:
> 
> > I do have a speed sensor, however, it doesn't do me any good since the
> > WarP Drive controller does not have an input for it.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hello Corbin,

The motor balancing machine is a enclose unit with a laser light that marks 
the light side of a rotating shaft. To check the balance of the rotor took 
about 5 minutes to do and cost me $5.00. The rotor did not need any 
balancing up to 6000 rpm which is indicated on a computer indicator.

I also had them test the motor coupler, motor coupler attach to the rotor, 
flywheel attach to the coupler and pressure plate without the clutch which I 
assembly myself and it test ok up to 6000 rpm too.

There is no way I could check out this balance at this rpm rating unless you 
had specific tools.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "corbin dunn" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Possibly over sped Warp 9 motor -- what to do?


> Hi Roland,
> Thanks for the reply; I guess I'm mainly curious if there is anything I 
> can
> do myself to see if things are alright. How hard is it to balance a motor
> or inspect it for damage?
>
> I do have a speed sensor, however, it doesn't do me any good since the 
> WarP
> Drive controller does not have an input for it.
>
> corbin
>
>


> Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > Many local motor shops normally balance a motor after it is repair. The
> > > shop I have can even balance engines. Take the rotor to the motor shops
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Cool - thanks Tom and Roland. I also got ahold of George from Netgain via email. The motor doesn't seem to vibrate much when I run it at 12v, so I'm going to put it back in the car and test it...if it vibrates excessively, then I'll be taking it back out and getting it balanced. I found a shop in Palo Alto that looks like they can do it, so I won't have to mail it far away.

Thanks everyone for the advice!


-corbin



> Tom Keenan <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > If you just want to check for imbalance, you can check with a mechanical reed vibrometer or one of the newer electronic versions. They are available for about $150 on eBay.
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> corbin dunn wrote:
> 
> > Cool - thanks Tom and Roland. I also got ahold of George from Netgain via email. The motor doesn't seem to vibrate much when I run it at 12v, so I'm going to put it back in the car and test it...if it vibrates excessively, then I'll be taking it back out and getting it balanced. I found a shop in Palo Alto that looks like they can do it, so I won't have to mail it far away.
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hey Corbin, does this mean you wont be at the May 12 show in SJ? In hind
site, the AC-50 would have been a better choice. However, you need to
determine what caused the clutch spline to wear like it did. Overreving
probably isnt the culpert. Adapter could be off center (who made it?) and
the coupler could be not made properly. It also could be a out of balance of
the flywheel and clutch assembly. Now you see why I do all clutchless. No
need for one in a VW. Hope to see you at the show.

--
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I don't see how an AC-50 would have been any different, it was a clutch fai=
lure. or do you mean that because the AC-50 is such lower powered it wou=
ld not have stressed the clutch enough to strip it?

http://www.evalbum.com/4021


>________________________________
> From: Cruisin <[email protected]>
>To: [email protected] =

>Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2012 7:33 AM
>Subject: Re: [EVDL] Possibly over sped Warp 9 motor -- what to do?
> =

>Hey Corbin, does this mean you wont be at the May 12 show in SJ? In hind
>site, the AC-50 would have been a better choice. However, you need to
>determine what caused the clutch spline to wear like it did. Overreving
>probably isnt the culpert. Adapter could be off center (who made it?) and
>the coupler could be not made properly. It also could be a out of balance =
of
>the flywheel and clutch assembly. Now you see why I do all clutchless. No
>need for one in a VW. Hope to see you at the show.
>

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Al,



> Cruisin <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > Hey Corbin, does this mean you wont be at the May 12 show in SJ?
> 
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Martin WINLOW <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> >
> > On 1 May 2012, at 06:22, corbin dunn wrote:
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Cruisin <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > However, you need to determine what caused the clutch spline to wear like
> > it did.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Joe <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > On Tue, May 1, 2012 at 7:33 AM, Cruisin <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> corbin dunn <[email protected]>wrote:
> 
> > I did mention it...the splines were simply gone! They just got ground
> > off...I assume from them giving out from excessive torque and then the
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> corbin dunn wrote:
> 
> > I did mention it...the splines were simply gone! They just got ground
> > off...I assume from them giving out from excessive torque and then the
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

You would understand if you had 15 years experience building EV conversions.
Been all through the DC and clutch. The AC has a longer shaft for the
coupler, or did you not know that, and a lot less vibration due to the AC
characteristics. How many EV production cars use DC. None. Additionaly, tha
AC runs at 7k RPM a lot smoother than a DC at 4K RPM max. I am running a
AC-50 almost 25k miles after conversion with no problems whatsoever. It is
the first car ever to be powered with Li-ion batteries with a 34kwh pack
using the 18650 cells prior to Tesla's selection of the same cells. By the
way, your statement about the power stripping the splines out of the clutch
is way out in never never land. I dont know where you get this information.
Can you please explain your experience that you have that would explain how
that could be with details. With all drag machines we have designed, I have
not seen that ever.

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

When mine wore out (after 2K miles) it was obvious that they had worn, not
broken off. There was lots of tooth dust all over. Whether the cause was
misalignment or just weak material, who knows? 

--
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Roger Stockton wrote:
> 
> > corbin dunn wrote:
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

H Roland,

I assume you mean "There is no way I could check out this balance < and fix it > at this rpm rating unless you had specific tools" as all you have to do to see if your motor is balanced at any specific rpm is to run it at that rpm and see if it vibrates.... No? Unfortunately, fix ing it if there is any vibe is another matter entirely. But if the moro is ok, it is much easier to send off the clutch (less friction plate), coupler and flywheel to be balanced on their own.

MW



> Roland Wiench wrote:
> 
> > Hello Corbin,
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

You may not feel or sense any and small vibrations by feeling or eyeballing 
it.

About 20 years, I bought a taper lock coupling from a industrial supply and 
machine shop. I could have use it right out the box as is, but I know from 
past experience from machinist, that it should be further refine for 
installation.

To test it out, it was install on a balancing shaft, and spun up to 10,000 
rpm. There was a very small unbalance in this coupling which is cause by 
the split in the taper lock bushing, the setting of the set screws, the 
keyway installation, and the taper lock housing.

To get it to a perfect balance at 10,000 rpm, the set screw that presses 
against the key was change to a shorter one, so it would not extend above 
the surface of taper lock housing.

If there is more than one set screw, then all of them should be the same 
height above the shaft. A longer one will unbalance the coupler.

The pull on bolts can be space evenly around the shaft with a taper lock 
bushing that does not have a split in the bushing. A bushing that has a 
split will have its pull on bolts offset to compensate for the material 
remove from a split bushing.

You will notice that some taper lock couplers have two keyways where one is 
between the shaft and taper lock bushing and another between the housing and 
the taper lock bushing. This is so the user can install it only one way 
which is a fine tune balance coupler.

In a single key taper lock coupler, the machinist rotates the housing to a 
different position, torque all the bolts to a exact inch pounds and test the 
balance again. This position is mark, so the user can install the outer 
housing to the bushing in the same position.

A flywheel and pressure plate may be balance as one unit or separately. 
Separately is better and both together are check for balance when bolted 
together. Again the pressure plate may have to be reposition on the 
flywheel several times to find the best balance point. When found, the 
position of the flywheel and pressure plate is mark. If you purchase a 
flywheel and pressure plate set, then note the assembly marks on these units 
so the pressure plate indicator mark align up with the flywheel mark.

One more thing about using a existing flywheel and pressure plate off a 
specific engine. The flywheel may be use to balance the engine and is only 
place on the crank flange one way by using a offset bolt pattern and or pin.

DO NOT use a external balance flywheel on a balance electric motor unless 
you had the flywheel balance.

These are call external balance flywheels which are done in the later years 
model vehicles in the standard ANY CARS. These flywheels are normally cast 
which the ring gear must stay in place which reinforces these cast 
flywheels.

It is best to use a internal balance flywheel where the engine is balance 
and the flywheel is separately balance. These are normally forged units and 
the bolt pattern on the flywheel are space evenly.

I have made a taper lock coupler, by cutting off a new forge crank shaft for 
a 68 Chevy. Bore out the center and had it taper bore for a QD taper lock 
bushing that install in a conventional pattern which pulls in from the back 
a taper lock housing. Very easy to pull off the motor shaft with a puller 
by pulling on the flywheel mounting flange.

QD taper locks are made by DODGE Power Transmission Components by RockWell 
Automation.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martin WINLOW" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 3:10 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Possibly over sped Warp 9 motor -- what to do?


> H Roland,
>
> I assume you mean "There is no way I could check out this balance < and 
> fix it > at this rpm rating unless you had specific tools" as all you have 
> to do to see if your motor is balanced at any specific rpm is to run it at 
> that rpm and see if it vibrates.... No? Unfortunately, fix ing it if 
> there is any vibe is another matter entirely. But if the moro is ok, it 
> is much easier to send off the clutch (less friction plate), coupler and 
> flywheel to be balanced on their own.
>
> MW
>
>


> Roland Wiench wrote:
> >
> > > Hello Corbin,
> > >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

On 5/2/2012 3:56 AM, Martin WINLOW wrote:
>
>


> Roger Stockton wrote:
> >
> >> corbin dunn wrote:
> >>
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Lee Hart wrote:
> 
> > >> <http://www.isspro.com/proddetail.php?prod=R4902>
> 
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> 
> Hi Martin,
> The coupler doesn't have any springs -- I think you are talking about the clutch pad/disk having springs in it. The answer is no, the old and new don't have any. Yes, I think they would help soften the torque. The new clutch pad I have has a much longer shaft, so it should have more contact w/the splines on the transmission shaft and hopefully stay together longer!
> 
> I don't have any way of getting the RPM up to 5k without the controller...so I don't have much choice but to drop it together and see how it goes.
> 
> corbin
> 
> 

Hi Corbin,

Bet your your coupler fails again within a similar mileage (sorry!).

As for spinning up the motor, you have Li cells - jsut attach one end of the motor to the -VE of your pack and the other to progressively more and more serially connected cells in the string. It's a bit Heath Robinson but you will get to 5k rpm fairly soon - complete guess - around 30V.

Regards, Martin Winlow
Herts, UK
http://www.evalbum.com/2092
www.winlow.co.uk



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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Roger Stockton wrote:
> 
> > corbin dunn wrote:
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Everyone, 
Thanks again for the great advice!

I'll try to reply to each email:

>> shaft. There's also a picture on my website.
> 
> Not everyone will remember your website URL offhand ;^>

Ah, it was at the start of this thread . Doesn't everyone use Mac OS X Lion with Mail? It sorts things so nicely...

> 
>> Consider that these are VW clutch plates...they are in no way designed for
>> an electric motor's torque, and were instead designed for a 50hp VW
>> engine, so I'm not surprised it didn't survive.
> 
> Actually, they aren't "VW" clutch plates; they are aftermarket clutch discs for a VW. I've never seen an original equipment VW disc without a sprung hub.

Interesting! I didn't know that. 

> 
> - the spline will wear due to the disc and input shaft rotating relative to one another; a sprung hub OEM-type clutch disc is likely to greatly reduce or eliminate this wear mechanism
> 
> - while the stock VW pressure plate would likely allow the clutch to slip under the torque that your 9" can apply when fed 1000A, the 2100lb Kennedy Stage 2 pressure plate probably won't. This means that if the spline wear is due to the higher-than-stock motor torque, a weaker clutch would actually be of benefit because in a severe torque situation the clutch would slip (wearing the friction lining) rather than shearing off the splines on the clutch disc hub.
> 
> Given the ready availability of an OEM style sprung-hub clutch disc and the low cost ($30 and up), I wouldn't even consider putting the motor back in without installing one. It just looked like way too much work to get the motor out (though I'm not sure why you pulled the motor and tranny rather than the motor alone, I assume you had your reasons) to make it worth doing that job again sooner than necessary, beside the definite risk of 'sploding your motor by over-reving it again next time the spline lets go.

Shoot! I got this message a bit too late...I would have gotten a spring-plate type and installed it, but I already got the car back together at this point. 

The reason I have to remove the tranny is because the Warp9 is a little long. Take a look at this picture:

http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_5243.jpg

I don't have any room to "back the motor up" to get the flywheel to clear the transmission housing. I need like only 1" or so, but it just doesn't have the room! So, instead, I have to undo the whole transmission. If I were to do it again, I would have made the rear apron removable, so I could remove the apron and pull the motor in and out easily. It would have made this be a 2 hour job, instead of a 10 hour job!

So, I have it all together and drove the 20 miles to work today. I need to adjust the clutch slightly (it is disengaging earlier than before when I push the pedal down), but there doesn't seem to be any different vibration than before. When I put in the clutch, letting the motor free spin while shifting, I can hear it having a slightly different sound than before. It just sounds different, but doesn't seem to be vibrating.

So for now, I'm going to go with the longer splined clutch disc for at least a while, and then maybe check it after 5,000 miles. 

As Martin said, it might not be "if" it fails again but "when". But Martin -- hopefully I can get another 15k miles out of it, or more (since it has a longer spline!)

corbin


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> 
> Hi Corbin,
> 
> Bet your your coupler fails again within a similar mileage (sorry!).

Bummer! I hope it doesn't...but I might take precautions this time and take things apart in 5k miles or so to see how it is doing.

> 
> As for spinning up the motor, you have Li cells - jsut attach one end of the motor to the -VE of your pack and the other to progressively more and more serially connected cells in the string. It's a bit Heath Robinson but you will get to 5k rpm fairly soon - complete guess - around 30V.

Good point! I could always install my tach outside of the motor and see what RPM is is doing. I thought about this too, and I guess it wouldn't have been too hard to do. I could have just had one side on the b- and the other side moved from the + along each cell until it hits the desired RPM.

corbin

> 
> Regards, Martin Winlow
> Herts, UK
> http://www.evalbum.com/2092
> www.winlow.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Roger Stockton <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > Lee Hart wrote:
> >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hey Al,
It looks like I should have my car at the San Jose show next weekend. RE:



> Cruisin <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > You would understand if you had 15 years experience building EV conversions.
> > Been all through the DC and clutch. The AC has a longer shaft for the
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Back in the stone age, I use to drag race a VW and even beat a Corvette one 
time. If you lighten up the flywheel too much, this will in it self take 
out the transmission. Maybe the same thing will happen without a flywheel. 
Here is a web site that talks about VW flywheels and clearances.

http://www.tunacan.net/t4/tech/flywheel.htm

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martin WINLOW" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2012 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Possibly over sped Warp 9 motor -- what to do?


>
>


> Roger Stockton wrote:
> >
> > > corbin dunn wrote:
> > >
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> 
> Another idea given to me was to use an Arduino! Just to do some simple input to read the RPM sensor, and have the Arduino activate a relay. That might be quite cheap to do...maybe $30 for the Arduino and $10-20 for a relay.
> 
> corbin

RPM limit switch... I was thinking of a counter chip, some logic gates and one or more dip switches for programming the limit and a relay and driver. $10 max... Perhaps an input isolation opto, too.

Regards, Martin Winlow
Herts, UK
http://www.evalbum.com/2092
www.winlow.co.uk



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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> corbin dunn wrote:
> 
> > Another idea given to me was to use an Arduino! Just to do some simple
> > input to read the RPM sensor, and have the Arduino activate a relay. That
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> corbin dunn wrote:
> 
> > The reason I have to remove the tranny is because the Warp9 is a little
> > long. Take a look at this picture:
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Roger Stockton <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > corbin dunn wrote:
> >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

corbin
>> Another idea given to me was to use an Arduino! Just to do some simple input to read the RPM sensor, and have the Arduino activate a relay. That might be quite cheap to do...maybe $30 for the Arduino and $10-20 for a relay.



> Martin WINLOW wrote:
> > RPM limit switch... I was thinking of a counter chip, some logic gates and one or more dip switches for programming the limit and a relay and driver. $10 max... Perhaps an input isolation opto, too.
> 
> Roger is right that if one wants an off-the shelf package that is all
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Roger Stockton wrote:
> >> Whether you roll your own or buy off-the-shelf, the important thing
> >> is to get some sort of over-speed protection in place (and test
> >> it!) as soon as possible so that you don't get hit with a big motor
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Or you could use MSD Ignition RPM Activated Switch No 8950 - for $15.90. 
Racers use this type to limited the rpm at a set rpm with option models from 
3000 to 12000 rpm that also have 300 rpm adjustments in each rpm range by 
plugging in a rpm module for the rpm limit you need.

All you need is a four pulse rpm sensor which you said you have. It can 
also take off the rpm output signal from a motor controller. I use this 
output to a Stewart Warner tachometer that has a 4, 6, and 8 cylinder 
selection. My works on the 4 setting.

Just type in your search engine - MSD Ignition RPM Activated Switch and you 
will come up with many sites that will included the No. 8950
switch and circuit diagrams.

There are other MSD sites that show how to wire this switch in different 
modes of operation. All you need is to wired it for a four pulse input 
which is the four cylinder mode, A +12 and -12 input and your 2-wire switch 
circuit.

I would contact the MSD tech for additional info.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "corbin dunn" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2012 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Possibly over sped Warp 9 motor -- what to do?


>
>


> Roger Stockton <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > corbin dunn wrote:
> > >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> corbin dunn wrote:
> 
> > The part i'm not sure of is what to limit when the RPM limit is hit. I
> > like the isspro you mentioned
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Roland Wiench wrote:
> 
> > Or you could use MSD Ignition RPM Activated Switch No 8950 - for $15.90.
> 
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Lee Hart wrote:
> 
> > I like the idea of using a little motor to generate a voltage
> > proportional to RPM. That way it can be self-powered; you don't need to
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Roger Stockton wrote:
> > I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer and asking him...
> > The Hall-effect throttle your controller uses makes it less
> > straightforward than with a 0-5K throttle pot, but Ryan should be
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

The simplest way to make a rev limiter if you
already have a (tach) pulse train coming in,
is to feed it to a "monostable" vibrator which
generates a pulse with a length determined by
a time constant (typically an RC circuit).
Re-triggering this circuit with every incoming
pulse start, there is a sharp transition from
where the output of the monostable vibrator still
generates pulses (below the critical RPM) and when
the output is a continuous signal (above the limit
RPM) so this can be detected easily, for example
with a second monostable multivibrator with larger
time constant and generate the RPM limit signal.
Making two separate RPM limits is simply doubling
this circuit, with two different time constants
(adjustable potmeter). I agree with others that
even though the basic circuitry is simple (a few
Opamps and passive components) it will take quite
an amount of time and effort to verify and debug
the circuit, so unless you have more time than
money, it is not worth it - unless you like to
go into the business of selling your own rev limiters.

I expect that the most universal way of disabling
the throttle signal when RPM goes over limit is
either shorting the throttle signal or opening
the signal from the throttle. The first works well
with a potbox, not sure what a hall sensor needs.

For the second limit (when the throttle does not
respond, so this would be in case the controller
has failed full on) it would be needed to open a
small relay that is NO (Normally Open) so just
dropping the power to its coil will drop the
main contactor (wire the contactor coil via that
overspeed protection relay).

Regards,

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP: +31877841130
Tel: +1 408 383 7626 Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Roger Stockton
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2012 4:11 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Possibly over sped Warp 9 motor -- what to do?



> corbin dunn wrote:
> 
> > The part i'm not sure of is what to limit when the RPM limit is hit. I
> 
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Lee Hart <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > Roger Stockton wrote:
> >>> Whether you roll your own or buy off-the-shelf, the important thing
> ...


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