# switching from PB-6 pot box to hall effect throttle



## Guest (Aug 11, 2010)

What controller and what does the manufacturer say?


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

well, it's a China unit which I am trying out.
72volts, 400amps for a DC Permanent magnet motor.

the manufacturer did give me a user manual but it seems to lack a few labels (with the diagram for the Hall effect throttle) and I can't seem to contact them now.

basically there is an 8 pin socket but only three wires connected so I am assuming that the 5 other pins don't have any function. Well, this assumption I am not too sure about.



the pins with wires available are the first three (3) on the right side (from top going down.)

like this
O*O*
O*O*
O*O*
OO




I know where to connect the positive (+) and negative (-) of the batteries. Also same with the motor.

But as I mentioned I am not yet sure how to wire the PB-6 pot box.
Can I just play with these wires and figure it out by trial and error? Or would it not be safe for the motor controller?

I think that I may be able to wire the PB-6 pot box by following this diagram
Except that it seems to use the upper left pin with doesn't have a wire available. I am not sure if the manufacturer really left these empty on purpose OR if I have to add by myself the additional wires for some of the pins.















But with the Hall effect I am not sure since the pins to be used are these

O*O*
O*O*
OO
O*O*

and the lower right pin currently does not have a wire available in the socket.




Question, what is this microswitch for?

Can the motor controller work without using this microswitch?


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

I am thinking that maybe the upper left pin in the wiring diagram does not have to be used and maybe the one who made this diagram just was not able to properly "edit" that part while he was making the PDF file.

Here is a diagram for the Hall effect throttle










In the user's manual, this diagram for the Hall effect throttle is positioned above the diagram for the PB-6 pot box.

So maybe, and just maybe, the diagram for the PB-6 pot box was just an edited version of the Hall Effect diagram.

But these just guesses.


And I am not sure if I have to transfer one of the wires on the socket (3rd one on the right side) to accommodate the bottom right pin for the Hall effect throttle to work.

This is the reason why I was asking about PB-6 pot box and Hall effect throttles....do they use the same pins in a motor controller or do they each require different pins (just based on your experience with your own motor controllers)


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

Oh by the way, this is a Chennic PM motor controller. A JCPM-7240

Anyone who has had any experience with a Chennic controller?

Please help!


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## dexion (Aug 22, 2009)

I talked with them about controllers before. It was for a series controller anyway an option. I had to let them know which I wanted to use before they built it.


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

So what do you mean by that?

Can this still be used for the PM motor?  it's a Mars ME0709 motor by the way.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

A series motor controller should not be used on a a PM motor without the controller manufacturers blessing. The controller may have serious problems controlling peak currents at lower motor rpm. (you can read that "blow FETs".)


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

But they're the ones who manufactured the DC PM motor. Unless they just outsourced this motor from another Chinese company.

This is what they gave me. And It does only have *M-*, *B-* and *B+*
Which is similar to other PM motor controllers. No *A2 *for this one


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

I do not have yet the batteries for my EV. Can the battery charger be used instead to supply the DC 72volts needed? I already want to start testing the motor and the motor controller.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

if they say the motor and controller go together then it is OK. For a controller to work on a PM motor it just needs to be able to shut off real fast at current limit. Plenty of series motor controller can operate PM motors, just not all of them. 

Please don't try to run the motor and controller off of the charger. It cannot source the current required to start and there are lots of bad things that come to mind.


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

So are Series controllers more prone to damage than PM motor controllers?

I've been reading about bad experiences with Chennic Series motor controllers.

I do have with me a Chennic PM motor controller. I haven't tested it yet but I hope and pray that this thing won't fail on me.

The reason I decided to try out the Chennic PM motor controller was I did have a few China items here at home and they seem to perform well. Like the inverter TIG welding machine I have here. No problems at all. And lots of other stuff.

This Chennic....well, wish me luck. There's always Kelly controllers anyway, just in case.

Oh ya, can a 72volt motor controller be connected to a 12 or 24 volt battery pack?
Maybe it will pulse the current at these voltages.....but at least it will still work.....that is if this is possible.

I have not yet purchased the Lead acid deep cycle batteries because I'm scared that this motor might fail on me.

I also do have here a DC-DC converter and a Pulse Battery charger. When I have tested these components I will make sure to give you guys my feedback


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

Some series motor controllers are more prone to excess current damage when trying to run a PM motor or if they happen to be shorted on the output. One classic example of this is using the Curtis 1221B motor controller with the ADC 9 inch FB-1 motor. That is a series wound motor, but lower impedance than most. Plenty of those controller blew up running that motor at low rpm, mostly from users that had heavy EVs. 

Most DC motor controllers have a input voltage minimum. Below that point they tend to shut down. You would have to ask the manufacturer. Good luck with your project. It sounds like you plan to try out some of the newer low priced parts.


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

i hope I won't get the same experience as billhac with his Chennic controller.

I didn't know series motor controllers are more prone to these problems.

I thought it was just all about varying the voltage to determine the motor speed. It is, right??


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

The controller's job is to vary the motor voltage. There can be problems holding the voltage low enough to limit the current to a level the controller can survive at low rpm.

Lee Hart explains it way better than I could.


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

do hall effect sensors require a 5volt power source?

because i don't think my controller has one so would it work if I provide my own 5V DC power source?


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## Guest (Aug 16, 2010)

I suspect that you can't use the hall effect with your controller. Unless the company states that you can I'd say no. 

I am not sure about external 5v power working properly or not. Unless you can keep it stable then I'd say no. 

Pete


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## rtwelder (Aug 11, 2010)

well, the company said YES I can. I connect the Hall effect signal wire to one of the controller pins. but the Ground and +5V wire needs it's own 5v source but i just want to know how it is with other controllers.

and do people do this with other controllers where they use a hall effect throttle but with a separate 5V power source


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## Guest (Aug 16, 2010)

Mine has its own 5v source to drive those components.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

rtwelder said:


> well, the company said YES I can. I connect the Hall effect signal wire to one of the controller pins. but the Ground and +5V wire needs it's own 5v source but i just want to know how it is with other controllers.


Unless told otherwise you should use a well isolated 5 volt source. I would suggest something like the Astrodyne ASD03-12S5 http://www.astrodyne.com/Product/asd03.asp. 

I would need to know what each of the pot and controller pins do before I could suggest how to wire it up.


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