# [EVDL] Kilovac EV200 on sale



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Ever get the feeling like something was meant to be? I'm getting that 
feeling about my conversion these days. Here's an example (skip to 
the end if you want to know where to find cheap Kilovacs).

I finally convinced myself I wanted EV-200's for my contactors. 
However, following some recent discussions here on the list, I 
realized I'd be better off saving myself some money buying some 
LEV-200's from evsource. So, I gathered up my credit card the other 
night and went to order them...only to discover that they are 
"currently on hold while a quality issue is being investigated." 
eep! They recommend considering the EV-200 as an alternative. D'oh!

So, I stalled. In the meantime, I was searching for circuit breakers 
at work and stumbled across Wes-Garde components. There, sitting on 
their front page, was an Inventory Special: Tyco EV200AAANA for 
$99.99 each through June 30! I bought two, and thought I'd share the 
wealth (well, savings really) and the story.

Cheers!
-Ben

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Total noob question....what are these for, and why would I want to buy some?
I have just started restoring an old WWII jeep that I will be converting to
an EV in the process, and realize that buying parts in advance is a good
thing( Zilla backlog as example ), so should I be excited about this deal,
and how many would I want to buy?

-Hank




> Ben Apollonio wrote:
> >
> > Ever get the feeling like something was meant to be? I'm getting that
> > feeling about my conversion these days. Here's an example (skip to
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

A "Contactor" is just a relay designed to handle high current.
The LEV200 can handle up to 900V and 500 amps.

They are normally used to connect/disconnect the battery pack. Basically
you use these to shut down your EV when you're not driving it.

You'd want at least one for your main contactor (usually connected to the
ignition switch) and some folks add a second one connected to a switch on
the throttle so that the pack is disconnected when the throttle is off.

The controllers used in EVs can fail full on, it's rare but it happens. 
For most folks, the common reaction when your vehicle takes off on it's
own is to take your foot off the throttle and hit the brakes. Having a
second contactor connected to the throttle (or brake pedal) allows you to
shut down the EV if the controller fails full on, without even having to
think about it.

Having it connected to the throttle seems preferable to me, because once
you get the vehicle to stop, many people will take their foot off the
brake.

>
> Total noob question....what are these for, and why would I want to buy
> some?
> I have just started restoring an old WWII jeep that I will be converting
> to
> an EV in the process, and realize that buying parts in advance is a good
> thing( Zilla backlog as example ), so should I be excited about this deal,
> and how many would I want to buy?
>
> -Hank
>
>


> > Ben Apollonio wrote:
> >>
> >> Ever get the feeling like something was meant to be? I'm getting that
> >> feeling about my conversion these days. Here's an example (skip to
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

While we're on the topic of inexpensive sources I still maintain this is the best deal you'll find on 160 VDC breakers.

Go to http://www.solarseller.com
Scroll down until you see line 45 UL Listed DC Breakers up to 125 volts and select it
Scroll down or do "Find on Page" and search for Airpax mod. # JLM-1-30353-3
These are $45 each. Two years ago they were $35 each and $20 each if you bought a 6-pack.

I bought a 6-pack and have two in my Electrabishi and 4 in the Pinto.

They are rated 160V and 313 Trip amps. 

They are listed right under the GJ-H3 line of Airpax breakers too which are a decent deal at $100 ea.

I have pulled 1000 amp draws several times for several seconds in the Mitsubishi before they would get hot enough to blow. And they've been in there daily driving for almost 2 years now.

Right now I'm running a pair of these (in series - one on the + and one on the -) on each of the two 750 amp battery strings in the Pinto. Several 12.72 second runs behind them and I am confident they are sufficient even for racing.

I've asked Jack at SolarSeller where he gets these and he always says it was a 1 time good deal, thats the last batch, there won't be anymore. But it two years I've seen his stock go up to 45-60 units and gradually fade back down to a few, then jumps back up again. 

FWIW

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: HankLynch <[email protected]>
Date: Friday, May 30, 2008 8:18 am
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Kilovac EV200 on sale
To: [email protected]

> 
> Total noob question....what are these for, and why would I want to 
> buy some?
> I have just started restoring an old WWII jeep that I will be 
> converting to
> an EV in the process, and realize that buying parts in advance is a 
> goodthing( Zilla backlog as example ), so should I be excited about 
> this deal,
> and how many would I want to buy?
> 
> -Hank
> 
> 


> > Ben Apollonio wrote:
> > >
> > > Ever get the feeling like something was meant to be? I'm getting
> > that
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

So, wouldn't this contactor be overkill for a 48 - 96V system? Or
does one need that much buffer?

-Steven



> Peter VanDerWal <[email protected]> wrote:
> > A "Contactor" is just a relay designed to handle high current.
> > The LEV200 can handle up to 900V and 500 amps.
> >
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi,



> nicolas drouin wrote:
> 
> > A follow-up noob question:
> > Wouldn't it be more cost effective to run the pedal switch and key
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Thanks!
OK, so with my proposed setup, on a vehicle that wasn't designed to go over
60mph ( old WWII Army jeep ), I'm thinking of starting with 6 yellow tops
for 72 volts, and then playing by ear after we are up and running, but max
would be 144.

I like the idea of redundancy, and I am hearing that these things can
sometimes fail. In the vehicle, I'll put 2 for sure, maybe tying the second
to the emergency brake. Is this price good enough, and do these fail enough
that it would warrant buying a third one to sit on the shelf? 

-Hank





> Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> >
> > A "Contactor" is just a relay designed to handle high current.
> > The LEV200 can handle up to 900V and 500 amps.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

I like the idea of connecting the emergency contactor to the e-brake - it 
also serves the purpose of dissallowing a person from driving with it set 
(yeah - I make dummyhead mistakes sometimes). Personally, of all solutions 
proposed, I would be happiest with a big red emergency stop button like an 
industrial e-stop. These are safety rated, cheap, and the operation is 
obvious.

http://www.bannerengineering.com/products/subfam.php?sub_id=16

Jon

> I like the idea of redundancy, and I am hearing that these things can
> sometimes fail. In the vehicle, I'll put 2 for sure, maybe tying the 
> second
> to the emergency brake. Is this price good enough, and do these fail 
> enough
> that it would warrant buying a third one to sit on the shelf?

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Is there any chance someone other than you might drive the Jeep?

Grabbing the emergency brake or turning off the ignition both require
conscious thought AND require you to move your hands off the steering
wheel.

Grabbing the emergency brake is not a common response to a runaway
situation. Normal response is to take your foot off the gas and slam on
the brakes and then hold on for dear life.

It's best to try to take advantage of normal reactions rather than to
depend on learned responses which might get forgotten by a panicked
driver.


> Thanks!
> OK, so with my proposed setup, on a vehicle that wasn't designed to go
> over
> 60mph ( old WWII Army jeep ), I'm thinking of starting with 6 yellow tops
> for 72 volts, and then playing by ear after we are up and running, but max
> would be 144.
>
> I like the idea of redundancy, and I am hearing that these things can
> sometimes fail. In the vehicle, I'll put 2 for sure, maybe tying the
> second
> to the emergency brake. Is this price good enough, and do these fail
> enough
> that it would warrant buying a third one to sit on the shelf?
>
> -Hank
>
>
>


> > Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> >>
> >> A "Contactor" is just a relay designed to handle high current.
> >> The LEV200 can handle up to 900V and 500 amps.
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

That looks exactly like the Heinemann breaker I have for my car. I wonder
if they are both re-labeled products from another manufacturer?

-Jon Glauser
conversion blog: http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
http://www.evalbum.com/555

<quote who="MIKE WILLMON">
> Go to http://www.solarseller.com
> Scroll down until you see line 45 UL Listed DC Breakers up to 125 volts
> and select it
> Scroll down or do "Find on Page" and search for Airpax mod. #
> JLM-1-30353-3
> These are $45 each. Two years ago they were $35 each and $20 each if you
> bought a 6-pack.


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hank,
Before you spend a lot of $ on this project, some questions should be answered.
What are your performance objectives? Range, acceleration, top speed.
You have selected a vehicle with a very high rolling resistance. You
are talking about using batteries which will give high acceleration
(relatively) coupled with short range and high cost.

As to contactors, I used 2, one on positive and one on negative to
isolate the motor, heater, DC/DC and controller from pack voltage when
the key is off. This protects everything from charging voltage.
Storm
PS I have a '46 Jeep.



> HankLynch <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks!
> > OK, so with my proposed setup, on a vehicle that wasn't designed to go over
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> HankLynch wrote:
> > OK, so with my proposed setup, on a vehicle that wasn't designed to
> > go over 60mph (old WWII Army jeep), I'm thinking of starting with 6
> > yellow tops for 72 volts, and then playing by ear after we are up and
> ...


----------



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

It should be the same if the contactor is on the negative side of the pack,
right? For my setup it was more convenient to put the contactor in an
enclosure with the shunt connected to the pack negative. This leaves the
positive side always connected. Since it's isolated, it shouldn't matter,
right? I'd like to eventually add a second contactor to the positive side,
but for now I have just the one.

-- 
-Jon Glauser
http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
http://www.evalbum.com/555
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

> Jon Glauser wrote:
> > It should be the same if the contactor is on the negative side of the pack,
> > right?
> 
> ...


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