# 1,000 Euro EV Build



## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

So I'm starting a new project. Probably quite insane but I think I can pull it off. In short, I'm going to try and perform a practical EV conversion on a BMW E36 for 1,000 Euros or less. I have set the following rules :

1) No lead acid batteries allowed
2) Range of 40 miles and top speed of at least 70mph
3) Total conversion cost including batteries of one thousand Euros or less

Now, I'm not totally mad (ok I'm halfway there) as I can now seem to get Opel Ampera / Chevy Volt packs for around the 500/600 Euro mark here in Ireland. I think this leaves me enough room to do a nice simple DC conversion with all the normal addons like power steering/brakes/heat etc.

I picked up the cheapest E36 in Ireland. A 96 saloon with ....wait for it......248,000 miles on the clock, a truly horrific 4 cylinder diesel engine and a smell of sheep from the interior...

Stay tuned to see if (when) I screw this up


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

I can't see how someone like you could screw this up. Might not be 1000, but my money says you will be close.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

And of course a video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkg8Rk-aP4U


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Found 73 cents in the center console. Now officially the €1,000.73 build


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## electrico (May 18, 2017)

This is very cool. Would you like to write a blog post about this? If yes, Please PM me.


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## RonanRaver (Mar 4, 2018)

Looks very interesting  I shall be following on youtube.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

jackbauer said:


> Found 73 cents in the center console. Now officially the €1,000.73 build


You think you're on a tight budget? I heard a rumor that the launch of the Spacex Falcon Heavy was delayed partly because they were still digging out coins hidden in Elon's Roadster.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Zero G will free them off Next episode we'll be talking motors!


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## splitbusvanatic (Mar 7, 2018)

Excellent Damien. 
I cannot wait for this. 
An e36 318tds was my first BMW.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Thanks guys. New episode soon


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Disaster averted! Nearly had to cancel the project as the donor E36 had no stereo Amazon came to the rescue for 20 bucks


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

Obviously poor vehicle selection for failing to notice such a major part missing.could have killed the whole project.


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## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

Damien, stop teasing us and upload that new episode 

Any luck on getting the Ampera pack booted up and talking?


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

I've read out all 96 cells on the Ampera BMS can bus. All good. New episode will be soon

Anyone recognise this pcb?


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## Tomdb (Jan 28, 2013)

Looks like a revolt controller.

So DC power it is. 

Mind sharing the canbus info for an Ampera pack?


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## Tony Bogs (Apr 12, 2014)

Triple whammy for the environment and global warming.
Recycling an ICE piece of c***, an early DIY project and a crashed Volt.
Great contribution for the world, Jack!


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## zippy500 (Apr 3, 2017)

Oh please let that be a drop in board for the leaf invertor


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Next episode is out : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaOunO7O_AU


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Whipped up a simple little through hole board to drive the low sides of two 600A IGBT half bridge modules. Based on the ACNW3190 driver chip.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Here's a little blast from the past. Still going strong 4 years later


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Next episode is out :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlB2Lb5PsCg


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## RonanRaver (Mar 4, 2018)

jackbauer said:


> Next episode is out :
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlB2Lb5PsCg


Great stuff


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## Tony Bogs (Apr 12, 2014)

The car is indeed what I thought it would be for €200.
If I get on-board, I'll convert my current ICE, so I don't have to pinch my nose.
And I'll increase the budget to €2000.

I've seen your video in which you present the 600A/600V IGBTs.
I guess you'll be changing direction electronically with the full IGBT bridge, the low side on/off (the new TH driver board) and PWM on the high side.

How about two MOSFETs and two schottky diodes? MOSFETs on the high side, diodes in the low side leg. Unidirectional. Any chance that such a setup is compatible with the REVOLT and your ideas?
For driving in reverse I'll use the existing gearbox. Is it possible that the switch for the reversing light on the gearbox puts the controller in low torque mode?


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## Tony Bogs (Apr 12, 2014)

WOW!! Almost 750 pages on ecomodder. 
I'd love to see the math for the power stage of this beast. Could be something like five pages A4. 
So far haven't found it, only about 700 pages to go.  But I did see the picture of your build somewhere near the end.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

And we get the engine out : https://youtu.be/QiyMPMj2WrA


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

You make the assumption that there was math involved. Didn't seem to be paul's style.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Old skool tuesday. Testing out my simple twin module gate driver based on the ACNW3190.


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## Tony Bogs (Apr 12, 2014)

> You make the assumption that there was math involved. Didn't seem to be paul's style.


No, I didn't see it on ecomodder or anywhere else, but he sure is a talented guy on the areas of electronics and programming. 

Paul used mosfets in the power stage. I meant Damiens 600A 600V dual IGBT brick stage.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

electric power steering pump going in


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## CTRdemon (Apr 7, 2018)

Hi Damien,

I am a new to EV conversions (this is my first post) and have found your videos really helpful. Great job on those! 

I think I will also be planning my own €1,000 (or less) conversion on a 1985 Austin Mini I have sitting not doing much. I’ve got a list together of companies in the local area that have anything to do with forklifts (as suggested in your earlier video) to do the legwork in finding a suitable motor. Is there anything you would recommend i ask of a motor?

Thanks and keep up the great work!


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## Emyr (Oct 27, 2016)

CTRdemon said:


> planning my own €1,000 (or less) conversion on a 1985 Austin Mini I have sitting not doing much.


That's a very compact vehicle with a low Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight. Given you would probably have to lose the rear seating area to avoid the weight balance shifting too far rearwards, you may get better results from starting with a similar vintage van or pickup (the pickup would possibly be body-on-frame, so it would be easy to mount battery boxes below the loadbay).

I've been browsing eBay for appropriate motors, struggling to find motors above 20kW. I couldn't find any forklift dismantlers near Manchester, maybe they're all oldschool and offline. I posted this thread about an interesting 70kw/310nm motor that might be easier to package in some vehicles, but £1500 would be a bit too much for my first conversion.


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## CTRdemon (Apr 7, 2018)

Emyr said:


> That's a very compact vehicle with a low Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight. Given you would probably have to lose the rear seating area to avoid the weight balance shifting too far rearwards, you may get better results from starting with a similar vintage van or pickup (the pickup would possibly be body-on-frame, so it would be easy to mount battery boxes below the loadbay).


Thanks for the reply Emyr. It is very compact but it is the only thing I have to use. Getting another vehicle isn't an option. I am going to be gradually restoring the mini and thought an EV conversion would be a nice touch (and a challenge by the sounds of it).

I am quite aware that I might be biting off more than I can chew with this one. It sounds very simple in theory. Electric motor, connected to the transmission with an adapter plate, use a controller to regulate the power, hook up some batteries and job done. I know (from experience) in practice it never is that easy.

As a "DIY mechanic" I have reasonable experience, I also used to be an auto electrician. However with auto fabrication I have limited experience and I certainly don't have the tools. Can (someone else's) labour be taken off the overall cost or is that "cheating?". I will no doubt need a little help.

Regarding the Kw value of the motor, what would be sufficient for the sub 650kg mini? I am guessing a properly powered 70Kw motor would be pretty quick in this.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Testing the electric power steering system : https://youtu.be/GD5K6TmF5PY


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi CTR

If you are going to use a forklift motor the power on the drive motor is continuous
For a car you can get a lot more out of it
The 11 inch motor in my "Device" has just died (and I've got another for $200) - that was a 10 Kw motor
I was pushing 1200 amps and 340 Volts across it - after 5 years of abuse it died

For a mini you want a 9 inch motor - maybe 6Kw

Read the thread on the motor section


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

Damien - I've gone through half of your old videos, great stuff in there.

One thing that'd be nice... while your content is kind of vloggy, it's not disposable in the way that most vlogs and newsy videos are. Videos from 4 years ago are still interesting, informative, and worth watching. And, I'd dare say, most people who watch your videos aren't people who just tune in for every video, they're people finding your content long past because it has value.

So, a couple things would really help in an archival sense.

1 - Playlists. Youtube often didn't know what was next in a particular series well enough to recommend it, and I'd have to hunt and peck through your video list. They're pretty quick and easy to make.

2 - Closure! What happened to the Honda bike? What happened to the weird Toyota 2-speed double-motor transmission? Etc.

Great content, can't believe you're such a small channel with how amazing your quality is.

I'm really pumped for this series, I too like doing things on the cheap. I'm particularly interested in what you do for a controller, I'm stuck on mine. I've got an old GE-10 SCR forklift controller from the 1960s but it maxes out around 5kw which isn't even enough for a bike. Not willing to spend lots on anything expensive, and the ReVolt project seems to have stagnated and the only "archive" of it is and endless 750 page thread that I'm not confident enough to reverse engineer or troubleshoot.


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## CTRdemon (Apr 7, 2018)

jackbauer said:


> Testing the electric power steering system : https://youtu.be/GD5K6TmF5PY


Thanks for the update, it's great to see it as it progresses!



Duncan said:


> Hi CTR
> 
> I was pushing 1200 amps and 340 Volts across it - after 5 years of abuse it died
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info Duncan. Wow, it sounds like they will take a bit of abuse then, what was volt rating on your motor?

9 inch sounds sensible due to the limited space I have. I will take a look at that motor page now, thanks!


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

This part never gets old


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## CTRdemon (Apr 7, 2018)

jackbauer said:


> This part never gets old


That’s coming along nicely! Looking forward to the next video.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Next fun packed episode awaits : https://youtu.be/PyG--nrFdPM


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## Kevin Sharpe (Jul 4, 2011)

jackbauer said:


> Next fun packed episode awaits


It sounds really sweet and the sparks are amazing


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## dhymers (Sep 9, 2013)

lol cabin fire. Brilliant.


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

Does he use a 12v starter battery to move at slow speeds? Of course not, uses a Tesla module and cable spark. Love it.

Can't wait for the controller episode, that's where my budget build is currently stuck. I got a $20 donor vehicle, a free forklift motor, free 18650s I've spent 3 months testing one at a time, but I can't find anything cheap for controller and I'm about to settle for electric stoves burners in a water tank for speed control.


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## CTRdemon (Apr 7, 2018)

Haha. Best video yet. It’s coming along really well. 

I love your reactions, I guess your weren’t ready for that! Haha. It is a good example of why you need a controller.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

I was about to give you a bad time about your crude alignment job between the motor and transmission. But, if this is your idea of a low cost controller, alignment issues are the least of your problems!

However with this sense of adventure and only if it can be done safely, you might be game to be a tester. A lab rat so to speak. What about moving a heavy duty alligator clamp (like on the end of jumper cables) along a TBD diameter section of Nichrome or even steel or stainless steel wire/rod as a crude variable resistor. Maybe start with 2-3mm diameter X 30-40cm long. Be prepared for hot flying pieces of metal. Try it first outside the car with the wheels jack-up, like your first 12V test. VRs this size, rather than a straight rod, are usually a coil around a heat resistant core. With some trepidation, I say use your best judgement.

I've always wondered if this would be way to limp home with a dead controller, at reduced voltage, out in the wild with a brushed motor set-up.


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## jhuebner (Apr 30, 2010)

Very straight to the point conversion video series, I love it! Also the way you built shaft and flange coupler from left over stuff, great


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## Tom (Mar 26, 2008)

UGH... Fire good.

Good Fire!

Thanks for that!!


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Now, you guys didn't really think I was just going to make a controller out of nichrome wire did you?


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

> Now, you guys didn't really think I was just going to make a controller out of nichrome wire did you?


I mean, I knew you had plans with some left over IGBTs and whatnot...

But my own plans were to actually attempt a big cluster of liquid-cooled nichrome if I have to.

... Hence me waiting on every word from you about a cheap controller


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## Tony Bogs (Apr 12, 2014)

Nichrome..

Thanks for demonstrating how easy it is to get traction from a DC series motor.
Getting sparks does mean more views, but a controlled way to deliver power is preferred. 
Regen won't work, so all you need for a controller is a voltage (throttle) to PWM converter (SOT23, three or four parts), current and temperature feedback (LEM sensor,NTC), a power gate driver ( 1 TO220 device) and a mosfet/schottky power stage.

The driver is the feedback path for torque and speed control.


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## Tony Bogs (Apr 12, 2014)

BTW, I think I can do a conversion for less than 200 Euro. 
Using the starter motor of my current ICE ride. Add the simple DC series controller et voila.
Won't go faster than about 20km/h, so it's in the category agricultural vehicles up to 25km/h max speed.


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## Emyr (Oct 27, 2016)

I doubt your starter would actually propel you for an hour, since its normal duty cycle is minimal...


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Did someone mention a starter motor ....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzVR4jD0N4w


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

time to start soldering


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Next episode :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzfdMME4o-Q


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

I knew this part of the build would be the tricky one for me.


I don't feel like, after watching this, that I know how to find and necessarily build a cheap speed controller. I appreciate that someone else can and did, but can't so much see my own path there.


In any case, can't wait to see the sheepshitmobile roll out


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

Not finished yet


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## boznz (Aug 22, 2018)

Hi Damien

Just spent a productive couple of days going through your videos on this and the E39 build, thanks for sharing. I very rarely work on electronics over 3.3V these days but I've certainly been inspired to get off my arse and look at some options for my own E39 next time the engine fault light comes on.

If you're ever in NZ then PM me and I'll shout you a couple of beers.

Boz


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## bigpie (Dec 14, 2017)

Im thinking about giving building this controller a go. I there any idots guide to the miller effect somewhere? I'm assuming, maybe incorrectly, that the resistor values need tweaking on a per build basis even if the same IGBTs are used so I'd need to get an oscilloscope. 

I've converted a motorcycle with off the shelf parts, but my budget won't stretch to off the shelf for a car.


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## bigpie (Dec 14, 2017)

I've been trying to understand what's going on with the IGBT's instead of just copying it, what I cannot figure out is what the battery + and motor + are not just connected together but are connected to collector 1 on the IGBT(s).

I can see how its switching on and off the connection between battery - and motor - according to the pwm to control the motor speed, I believe this is called low side switching.


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## jackbauer (Jan 12, 2008)

The battery bus voltage is connected between C1 and E2 to allow the big caps to help stabilise the voltage and absorb the turn off spikes.


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## bigpie (Dec 14, 2017)

Thanks, so the short across the pins on the PCB is to prevent that been switched on and short circuiting the battery?

Do you think it's worth building the IGBT board or see what comes of the Prius inverter converter? Seems uneconomical to buy IGBTs and Prius inverter. 

http://www.nkirkby.net/derptruck-pa...formance-and-the-embrace-of-greater-delights/ mentions there's a 400 amp overcurrent protection so I can't wait to see what you can do with it.


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## Serjeo (Mar 25, 2019)

Hi everyone. Sorry for my English, I am not a native speaker and use Google translate.
I have a question: someone tried to build IGBT board ?

I'm trying to build his controller.
But there are differences between the wiring diagram and the YouTube video
cathode Diode D1 and D2 on the wiring diagram is directed to the module, on the video in the opposite direction. Anyway i can't start my IGBT`s

No +15 from DC/DC , and t" high, about 60-70 C. But if i`m try to run, just connect to psu, DC/DC module provide 24V, it is means module is ok.

I've checked the аssembly a few times, all right. all components are new


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

> I have a question:


Start a new thread. This thread is for a specific video series, not for general controller help.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

MattsAwesomeStuff said:


> Start a new thread. This thread is for a specific video series, not for general controller help.


He's asking about the controller in the video...


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