# adc fb1-4001a brushes



## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

hi all time for ma next stupid noob question. as some of you know im recomissioning a used s10 ev. i ran a search and couldnt find a "how to" on brush inspection and changing. soo..... uhhhhhh... yea..... uhhhh... how do i do it ? ive climbed into every other corner of this truck and i fear what may happen if i dont at least check em.

thanks for ur time 
rich


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Kerensky said:


> hi all time for ma next stupid noob question. as some of you know im recomissioning a used s10 ev. i ran a search and couldnt find a "how to" on brush inspection and changing. soo..... uhhhhhh... yea..... uhhhh... how do i do it ? ive climbed into every other corner of this truck and i fear what may happen if i dont at least check em.


Hi Ker,

I know I've covered this before. I wish there was an easy way for me to link to it.  Oh well. Get so you have a clear view into the openings at the CE (comm end) of the motor. You may have to remove the cover band. Use a flashlight (and might as well use a camera). Examine the comm surface. Do not touch it with fingers or otherwise get any grease or oil on it. No sharp tools either. It should be a nice color or patina, kinda brownish gray, if that makes any sense. There should be web site photos, maybe at a brush company website, Helwig, Morgan ?) Should be no burns or streaks.

The brushes themselves should be inspected to see if all move up and down freely with the springs. All pigtail connections unbinding and not burned or frayed. All brushes about the same height above the edge of the holder indicating even wear amongst each other. Check to see if the brush length is adequate such that the spring will not bottom out and continue to apply pressure against the comm as the brush continues to get shorter.

If there is reason to do so, remove a brush and inspect it. Unscrew the pigtail (don't drop the screw inside the motor). Typically a hook is used to pull the spring back and the brush is pulled out. There should be no large chips or cracks and the contact surface should be smooth and shiny. A normal guideline is that a brush can wear about half way before needing replacement. But looking at a partially worn brush, how do you know the new length? So you just have to make a judgment call or contact the motor maker and get them to send you a service bulletin.

Reinstall the brush (If things look good, you really don't need to remove it in the first place). Make sure all the screws on the pigtails are tight. Blow out brush dust from the motor with dry oil free compressed air. Reinstall coverband. Post up photos so we can see 

http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_maintaining_dc_motors/

http://www.helwigcarbon.com/images/comm condition guide ta4-1 small version.pdf

http://www.helwigcarbon.com/images/pantracbooklet.pdf

Regards,

major


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

installed the new controller this morning and i can hear the curtis whine but the motor wont turn over i hooked up a 100w light bulb and confirmed the controller works fine. Grabbed the motor shaft with some pliers and it spins ok also. Hooked up the accessory battery to the unhooked motor, barely a rotation a second. Noticed some sparks under the headband. Decided to open the motor and take a look at those brushes I was so worried about. 
Sooo...yea.... its bad when it looks like this isnt it...........
????? 









ive bought this truck, paid to transport it cross country, stuck a new battery pack in it, new charger,fixed the bad wiring and paid to repair the crap welds of a new jersy highschool autoshop class..... drove it 3 blocks before the motor controller blew up, tried rebuilding it while purchasing a brand new controller, and i havent driven it in almost 6 months..........................there are damn spiderwebs on my $3000 trojans because i cant move this 4000 lb monste

how much is this gonna cost and where can i get it done in orlando? please someone help! 
i ..............help


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Kerensky said:


> ..........Sooo...yea.... its bad when it looks like this isnt it...........
> ?????


What is it in the picture that bothers you?


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Kerensky said:


> ...Sooo...yea.... its bad when it looks like this isnt it...?


Rich,

To be more specific. It looks fine.
The armature has good patina, there is precious little wear indicated.
The brushes are well seated, and the brush holders, and brush wires look great.
The armature doesn't appear to have any segments out of place or been hot and have solder thrown out.
So, unless the field is baked, there isn't any apparent problem here.

Which motor is that?
Have you checked and double checked the cabling and hook-up?
You should have A1, A2 (the armature leads) and S1 and S2 (the field leads) that you can see.
How are they wired?
Exactly where did you connect the 12v battery when you test ran it?

You are too far away from Ohio to visit and help, but stay calm...we can still offer enough advice to get you going


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Yea sorry out that
....... Opened ma Xmas present and threw it at the truck this morning expecting to go for a ride. Then the panic and anger hit. I work 3rd shift so after work I'll go home and do some problem solving with a level head. It's an ADC 9 inch. The only new copper under the engin bay is a hand made coil I was recommended to build and install on the motor. It would be wonderfull to find out my addition is the issue. The 12v was connected in place of the controller on the motor and when testing I left the previously mentioned coil installed. 
Yea sorry again for my out burst..... 
Today's lesson..... DON'T POST ANGRY KIDS. But damn if this isn't turning out to be much more expensive than originally intended.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Kerensky said:


> The only new copper under the engin bay is a hand made coil I was recommended to build and install on the motor. It would be wonderfull to find out my addition is the issue. The 12v was connected in place of the controller on the motor and when testing I left the previously mentioned coil installed.


Let's have a look at that coil


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

ok here is a pic of the coil as requested. i was told installing this would reduce heat at the controller and the motor.










i removed the coil this morning and reinstalled the original jumper between a2 and s2 so i could perform the 12v battery test again.... same effect. the motor does spin but VERY slowly and it refuses to do anything if i attatch it to the controller. also there is some arcing between the brushes and the stator when it is hotwired off the battery.


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Kerensky said:


> ok here is a pic of the coil as requested. i was told installing this would reduce heat at the controller and the motor...
> 
> i removed the coil this morning and reinstalled the original jumper between a2 and s2 so i could perform the 12v battery test again.... same effect. the motor does spin but VERY slowly and it refuses to do anything if i attatch it to the controller. also there is some arcing between the brushes and the stator when it is hotwired off the battery.


I've heard the recommendation to add that coil between the armature and the field before.
I've never tried it, but then I've never had an issue where I thought it might be needed.

Arcing between the brushes and the commutator is normal.
Severe arcing is a different story, and can possibly be caused by a bad field.
The field leads are the S1 and S2 terminals, so it can be tested.
I'm not suggesting the field is bad yet, just suggesting that you test it if possible.

I'd check YouTube for a test run of that ADC9 to see if anyone has posted one that shows the brushes under test at 12 vdc.

Does the motor have any kind of a burning smell when you run it at 12v?
Bad fields are commonly quite smelly...

Mark


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Kerensky said:


> also there is some arcing between the brushes and the stator when it is hotwired off the battery.


That's not good  The stator is the big black frame. It would take a pretty long arc to reach from the brush. 

1) I don't think the coil does or did any good but probably little harm. I would not use it.

2) Make sure the motor will rotate freely. I other words, spin by hand. It sounds like there may be a mechanical drag, bind or rub.

3) When doing the 12V no load test, measure the voltage at the motor terminals and current if you can.

Report back.

From what you're shown, I see nothing wrong with the motor. I think we can figure out what the problem is but it might require separating the motor from the tranny. If you can't spin it by hand as it sits coupled to the tranny, jack up the wheels, put it in first, have a buddy hold one wheel steady and see if you can easily turn the other wheel and spin the motor.

major


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Yea sorry major. Got my terms backwards. Commutator is arcing to brushes but not alot..... Big spiny thing under the brushes =commutator. Right ?
When I spin the motor by hand there is a slight tapping sound coming from close to the transmission adapter plate. Sounds like the commutator is rubbing something as it spins. 
11.3 vdc at a1-s1 while connected to 2 6v batts measuring 13.6v. My clamp meter doesnt do dc amps. ac amp reading on the jump leads was 1.6 amps. 
The motor seems to be spinning a bit faster than it was yesterday.... Mabey 200 rpm @ 12v. It does seem noisier than what I heard on YouTube this morning. No smell when operating or afterwards.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Kerensky said:


> Yea sorry major. Got my terms backwards. Commutator is arcing to brushes but not alot..... Big spiny thing under the brushes =commutator. Right ?
> When I spin the motor by hand there is a slight tapping sound coming from close to the transmission adapter plate. Sounds like the commutator is rubbing something as it spins.
> 11.3 vdc at a1-s1 while connected to 2 6v batts measuring 13.6v. My clamp meter doesnt do dc amps ac amp reading on the jump leads was 1.6 amps.
> The motor seems to be spinning a bit faster than it was yesterday.... Mabey 200 rpm @ 12v. It does seem noisier than what I heard on YouTube this morning. No smell when operating or afterwards.


If you're dragging 13.6V at the battery down to 11.3 V at the motor terminals it indicates to me you're drawing a lot of current.....maybe 100's of amps. Telling me there is likely a mechanical drag, bind or rub. As I see you describe other areas of the "conversion", I think it is probably a good idea to separate the motor from the tranny and check it was in fact a proper installation and alignment. At that time you can check the motor with an empty shaft and see if it spins freely and try the 12V no load test on the motor by itself.

Unless someone else here has a better idea, take the motor off.


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

major said:


> ...Unless someone else here has a better idea, take the motor off.


I agree with that. It will be half a day to take it off and put it back on.
You've already got everything out of the way, so it shouldn't be too difficult.

The motor may have no electrical issue at all. But I would want to know
what the knocking sound is.

And by the way, I have a very old habit of calling the Stator the wrong name.
I call it a field, but it is properly known as a stator.
The Armature is the entire "spinny thing" and the Commutator is the copper assemby under the brushes. It is only one portion of the Armature.

That still doesn't answer the question of the controller not working, but one thing at a time 

Mark


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Well at least I'll have something to do when I get off work tomorrow morning. I do believe the Curtis is working because I can hear the tone when the throttle contactor closes.
Merihapyfull Haunikwanzikamus everyone. I'll post pics o the mornings tear down for your entertainment.
Till tomorrow


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

what size bolts do i use so i can cherry pic the motor out of the s10 ? 
if i leave the tranny plate attatched to the motor do i have to recenter the assembly to the transmission or will it just bolt back in?
this is the one job i was actually afraid to do when i researched starting this project.
and yes the commutator was arcing to the brushes yesterday... not alot but it was arcing some, generally at startup and disconnect.

thanks for your time especially considering the day


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Kerensky said:


> what size bolts do i use so i can cherry pic the motor out of the s10 ?
> if i leave the tranny plate attatched to the motor do i have to recenter the assembly to the transmission or will it just bolt back in?
> this is the one job i was actually afraid to do when i researched starting this project.
> and yes the commutator was arcing to the brushes yesterday... not alot but it was arcing some, generally at startup and disconnect.
> ...


I use a tow strap wrapped around the motor and then attached to the lift.
It might be just as good to pull the complete motor/tranny together
so that you can give them a good once over examination.

If you have a clutch, you can simply un-bolt the tranny and pull the motor/adapter plate/clutch assembly out and it should line up when it goes back in.
If you take the clutch apart, you'll need to center the clutch disc when you put it back together, so that the transmission shaft centers properly.

I'll probably off the forum the rest of the day today...


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

ok here we go with tearout pics
1st pic is where we started this morning










second pic shows after the electronics board was removed... it was mounted to the tranny plate floating on those 2 verticle supports so it had to come out...










pic 3 is motor removed.had to separate motor/transmission due to lack of cherry picker... why did jesus have to be born this week.. no rental places were open.... HAHAHAHHAHAHA !









pic 4 shows the "tranny coupler?"... the inner springs are all jiggling when the motor rotates. i believe this is where the sound i mentioned earlier is coming from










pics 5&6 come together.... why isnt there a mount supporting the front of the transmission ? this lack of support made removing the motor/tranny much more difficult as the transmission sagged down as soon as the motor separated causing a HUGE rush to support it before dammage was done.

















7&8 come together as well.. pics of some kind of access panel to the tranny.. is it allowed to be made of plastic and held in place with sheet metal screws ?
















everything is out...








...and in the workshop









... ok once i got the motor out i hooked it up to my 12v jump box... damn thing spun up to at least 1k rpm... i did notice that the coupler was clearly off center.. it wobbled noticably... im calling the coupler the silver round thing behind the transmission plate with the springs in it.... no sparks between the brushes and the armature during testing today tho
when we pulled the transmission out all kinds of oil dumped out of the slip yoke making quite a mess.
Whats the next step ?


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

If the splines in the center of the coupler are noticeably wobbling then it is likely your tranny has been damaged and isn't turning very smooth. The other end of the input shaft has a bearing that doesn't like to wobble around. Plenty of transmissions have had that bearing damaged from just having a bad pilot bushing.

The little tin cover just blocks off the hole where the clutch release lever used to enter the bell housing. There is no problems with that flimsy cover. It seems that somebody forgot to remind you to drain the tranny before pulling the driveshaft. 

It sounds like the motor is healthy and a good used wrecker tranny and new hub may be called for. I really don't like to see the pilot shaft cut off for clutchless conversions of conventional RWD transmissions.


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Kerensky said:


> ok here we go...
> 
> Whats the next step ?


Good job so far.

The coupler should be centered and there shouldn't be any wobbling going on there.

You need to find out what is going on with that. 
You might need to take the coupler apart. 
Before you do, take good pictures and mark everything so that you can put all of it back together in alignment.

Mark


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

Hi; talking in _*ice_* terms, the loose clutch centre-shaft would be misalignment of your coupler; the loose clutch springs would give shuddering on takeoff.Common problem with old guys like me whose foot is glued to the clutch pedal. Also it may have been a second hand clutch when fitted.


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

I've looked at it again and now I understand why the it can run out of center.
That is a portion of a clutch disk mounted onto the aluminum coupler.
The spline portion is held at approximate center by the springs.
The springs also take up the starting torque surge, so are acting as dampeners.
Can you hold the female spline assembly at center with your finger or a rod when you spin the motor by hand?

The transmission input shaft looks like it has had the "pilot" section cut off, and now nothing holds that input shaft centered in operation.
You might be dealing with a binding issue in the transmission itself.
Does the transmission input shaft feel like it is binding if you spin it by hand?


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

It's sounding like I need to take the motor and tranny to a mechanic and have the coupling and transmission inspected for possible repair/realignment. Should I get this mythical mechanic to bolt the pair back together? I will have access to a cherry picker to reinstall them.


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Attention students of the keansburg new jersey high school auto shop class Circa 199x! Today's lesson is in transmission couplers for dc electric conversions. It is a 2 piece device. You must mount the clutch springs the right way or the entire adapter will wobble and cause binding in the transmission. This can be tested for using YOUR EYES !!! After installing the adapter jump start the motor and look at the coupler. If its wobbling remove, rotate 180 degrees, remount, repeat test procedure !!!!!!!!!!!!! 
At least the fix was cheap. 
Remounted the motor to the transmission and everything spins. I'll be heading out to get the cherry picker from my buddy this week and hopefully remounting the assembly on my next weekend. 
Could this binding have caused the motor controller to blow ? I still don't know why my original Curtis made the magic smoke.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

I don't think you can use a spring hub coupler with the pilot shaft removed on a conventional RWD transmission. The other end of the input shaft has a single bearing supporting it in the case and relied on the pilot bearing to support that end. The internal gears are going to push the nose of the input shaft down hard under load except in 4th gear (direct drive.) 

You may be able to use a rigid coupler like the "Economy straight clutch-less Coupler" on this page. Some people don't like a rigid coupler because of drivetrain bounce but an electric motor packs little inertial resistance compared to the ICE it is replacing. My Buggy has been running a rigid coupler for 12 years now. If you want to run a flex coupler I think you will need a new transmission with a pilot shaft and a new coupler designed to accept it.

Taking off from a stop in 3rd gear regularly, or even taking off in second gear often when pointed up hill is a good way to smoke a Curtis controller. The 1221 controllers don't even monitor the freewheel diode temperature and I have no idea if the 1231 does. Lugging the motor (high load at low rpm) and a lack of cooling are both enemies of Curtis controllers.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Kerensky said:


> ........Could this binding have caused the motor controller to blow ? I still don't know why my original Curtis made the magic smoke.


Yep. All that mechanical crap in between the motor and the wheels just adds extra load to the motor and extra current through the controller. Binding coupler or anywhere in the driveline is like dragging the brakes.


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

So I guess the next step is to throw the mated pair back in, throw it in drive and hold my breath ?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Kerensky said:


> So I guess the next step is to throw the mated pair back in, throw it in drive and hold my breath ?


Can you get an ammeter on that motor while you're holding your breath? The cost of a shunt and meter is a lot less than a controller or motor repair. Or maybe get a DC clamp type meter and use that extra cable from the coil to route it where you can see it.


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

EVfun said:


> Taking off from a stop in 3rd gear regularly, or even taking off in second gear often when pointed up hill is a good way to smoke a Curtis controller. The 1221 controllers don't even monitor the freewheel diode temperature and I have no idea if the 1231 does. Lugging the motor (high load at low rpm) and a lack of cooling are both enemies of Curtis controllers.


Could this effect be avoided by placing a single large diode in between the motor and controller.... Like a kickback diode ?
And yea Major I'll put the entire rig back in. Including the meters. My setup monitors battery voltage and motor current, also an old Curtis battery fuel gauge the school paid for.


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Kerensky said:


> Could this effect be avoided by placing a single large diode in between the motor and controller.... Like a kickback diode ?
> ...


I wouldn't put a diode there.
I would however, use a heat-sink on the Curtis. 
Just be careful to only use its mounting ears to attach it. Add a fan too since you are in central Fla.
I'd look for something slightly more substantial than the heat-sink that is on the left most device of your mounting board (left as viewing the picture you posted)


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Yea I ordered one from http://www.heatsinkusa.com/ when I ordered my new Curtis. I'm having it machined by a friend so it's taking a while. When I get the motor/transmission combo back in the truck can I put the ammeter shunt on the motor where I had the coil before ? If so what precautions should I take?


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

In theory you could put the shunt between the armature and the field.
However, I recommend putting it in the negative lead of your traction pack.
Perhaps on the firewall, or on your mounting board.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Weisheimer said:


> In theory you could put the shunt between the armature and the field.
> However, I recommend putting it in the negative lead of your traction pack.
> Perhaps on the firewall, or on your mounting board.


Shunts are normally used for battery current and put on the negative side. However I recommended he monitor motor current until he figures out what's going on. So he should be able to use the shunt and ammeter in the motor circuit to monitor motor current. Without being able to tell motor current he risks damage to the controller or motor and he has already lost one Curtis.


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

The truck came with a westach 400adc meter which I intend to use on the battery pack. I've purchased a westach 1000adc meter which I want to mount on the motor? Can the second shunt be mounted to the motor's case safely ? What kind of insulation material will be sufficient ? 1/4 inch plastic ? Wood ?


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Doh, I forgot Major recommended the motor current measurement.

You could mount the shunt on the motor case, most any plastic over 3/16" should give you enough insulation to be safe.

And you won't be the only one with lots of current shunts and meters

http://evalbum.com/2897

See the bottom right picture for a real definition of meter overload...


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

AhahahahahahahHhHahahahaaha !!!
Doc Brown's Delorean doesn't have that many meters. I know I walk by it every day!
Any recommendations to mount the 1k ammeter shunt directly to the case? I'm thinking about heat gunning some plexi till it forms to the motor case then using some "adhesive" we use at work to mount the plexi to the shunt and motor.


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Ok so the transmission shop jut called back. Turns out the tranny needs a rebuild and the adapter plate was aligned........ Let's say poorly. I don't wanna get banned for repeating what the mechanic said bout it. Soo if I'm buying all this again what do you guys recommend ? I apparently need new transmission, adapter plate, hell I might as well get a new coupler 2. Best project ever! At least the motor is good


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Kerensky said:


> Ok so the transmission shop just called back...I apparently need new transmission, adapter plate, hell I might as well get a new coupler 2. Best project ever! At least the motor is good


Rich,

Perhaps another route for you would be to add a pilot bushing to your present adapter.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...829133&ei=Yr0aT_-FDcLWmgev4fDrBg&ved=0CA8QrRI

Then just pick up a used transmission at a local pick-n-pull yard, or better yet, see if there is one on craigslist that is already pulled!

I think that your biggest issue was that the pilot portion of your transmission input shaft had been cut off and thus you had no lateral support.

Mark


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Wouldn't I need a longer coupler and a deeper adapter if I wanted to keep the pilot shaft ? Wouldn't that change the motor placement? Don't get me wrong the new transmission I just bought is keeping its pilot shaft I'm just thinking through the process and placement of everything in my motor compartment.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

I'm not sure about the coupler, the splines for the clutch will need to be back far enough to provide a place for the pilot shaft. Then you will need a piece of metal in that space with a centered hole sized to fit the pilot shaft (doesn't need a bushing with a clutchless adapter because there is no relative rotation.)

Once you know how much the shaft coupler moved back you can have a spacer ring made for the adapter plate. These are common and simple as it will have a male and female motor centering ring and 4 holes for the motor bolts to pass through. It will pull the motor back (forward in the vehicle) the same amount as the motor hub changes made the shaft coupler longer.


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Kerensky said:


> Wouldn't I need a longer coupler and a deeper adapter if I wanted to keep the pilot shaft ? Wouldn't that change the motor placement? Don't get me wrong the new transmission I just bought is keeping its pilot shaft I'm just thinking through the process and placement of everything in my motor compartment.


Yes, it will need to be "deeper" by enough to fit the bushing/pilot shaft but that might be, what, 3/4 of an inch?
Perhaps the motor would not need to move at all, and there is already enough room for the extra length.
The transmission would move back the extra distance and there might be enough room on the transmission output spline to allow that.
So, yes, there will need to be some minor re-fitting of the motor/transmission mounting points but you probably won't need to shorten the drive shaft.

EVFun is correct that a bushing per se is not required as there is no speed difference between the motor shaft and the transmission shaft such as occurs when using a clutch.
It is just that the bushing is brass and inexpensive and will allow the parts to be easily de-mated if they are ever taken apart again.


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Should I make any notes or alignment marks before I disassemble the adapter and coupler for inspection and modification/ replacement ?


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## Guest (Jan 22, 2012)

Yes by all means make marks so you can put it back together exactly the same way. Take photos of the process along the way too for reference in putting it back together. But you need to mark things. Keep your nuts and bolts bagged and marked so you know what goes where if you have to leave it un-assembled for any length of time. Photos are an excellent source for visuals. 

Pete


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## Weisheimer (May 11, 2009)

Kerensky said:


> Should I make any notes or alignment marks before I disassemble the adapter and coupler for inspection and modification/ replacement ?


Yes, I'd scribe mark the parts and use a permanent marker over that for high visibility.
I always take lots of measurements and pictures from every angle that I can get to.
There is always the option of taking video when you take it apart too.
Just be sure to post it so the rest of us can be entertained too!


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

ok entertainmet time.... the adapter plate as expected is no good. the coupler could be reused IF i cut off the pilot shaft on the new transmission. not happening.









ive been fighting the urge to make the motor,motor controller, and contactors part of the motor tranny assembly, effectivly creating a drive pack which is modular and simple to place and remove from the truck should further maintainance be required. here is a pic of the adapter plate i am considering having made.








here is the idea further fleshed out.. as you can tell the contactors will bolt to the adapter plate on the new extension. i will float the curtis about 4 inches over the motor... the idea is to put a couple electrical connections for the 144v and 2 more for the contactors.
















here is a pic of the cardboard plate in place in the truck... only realized later that it is in backwards... oops
anyways it all looks like its gonna clearance








last but not least is the shiny new.... ish remanufactured transmission i picked up this weekend.....we used the old bel housing to trace the cardboard... boy am i glad they match up.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Kerensky said:


> ive been fighting the urge to make the motor,motor controller, and contactors part of the motor tranny assembly, effectivly creating a drive pack which is modular and simple to place and remove from the truck should further maintainance be required.


Keep fighting it. The motor is the 2nd worst place to mount electronics (1st being the hubs). You don't want vibration, twisting, heating affecting stuff that wasn't made for it.


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Anyone else either for or against this idea ? All opinions are welcome of course


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

Hey all sorry I haven't posted in a while. The s10 is still at the metal fabricators and has been for about a month now. It's just not a big enough job for them to "jump right on it". I should take delivery in a week or so and begin the process of pulling copper and terminating. I'll make sure to provide some more entertainment pics of the new design when it gets home also ...... Weisheimer 
Ohh and ziggy FYI I'm not planning on mounting anything directly to the ADC motor. The plan does call for some electronics mounting to the adapter plate. All utilizing vibrational and electical isolation. Does this change alievieate your concerns ?


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

How do you plan to isolate the vibrations if it's mounted to the adapter plate?


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

We use spring type vibration isolators and rubber electrical snubbers for the electrical boards on the rollercoasters I work on. If raw electrical boards can survive on a coaster cased electronics should (I hope) survive on road use. I mean it's not like I'm gonna take a 200 foot drop or do barrel rolls in the s10. ( at least I hope not !!!)


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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

its entertainment time again. the truck has been at the metal fabricators for 12 weeks now. we only work on it on my days off so i can help/learn/make decisions on the fly.
we were able to salvage the coupler after some modification.( cutting the key all the way thru, and pressing a pilot shaft bearing in place). we've fabricated a new adapter plate(clutchless). and ive realized that my new mounting idea can be bolted on to a traditional ev rig..... so im gonna make all my funky mounts "bolt on".... that way if it doesn't work i can still put the traditional electronics board back in.
enjoy the pics and may the comments rain
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## Kerensky (Jul 8, 2011)

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thats all i have worth sharing so far....


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Ooohhh. Shiny!


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