# [EVDL] TBS E-xpert Pro - autosync doesn't work



## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Robb,

Yes, I have gotten it to work, though most of the time I don't meet the
voltage condition necessary to trigger it due to my charger settings. My
settings are: F1.0: 124V, F1.1: 1% (which is 1.8A for my 180Ah cells), F1.2:
10 sec, for a 36 cell nominal 115V pack. It does auto-synch and the screen
flashes "Full" when these conditions are met. Have you tried using settings
you know you meet each charge?

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Tom -
Yes, I have definitely used settings that should have been hit.

I have set the following settings:
F1.0 to 175V. My charger gets the pack up to 183.5V, and after charging is
complete it spends about 8 hours getting down to 173.5V.

F1.1 to 10%. For my pack of 100AH lithium cells, this would be 10A. When
the charger tapers off toward the end, it goes from 13.5A to 0A over the
course of 10 minutes.

F1.2 to 5 sec. This basically tells the meter the moment the first two are
met for 5 seconds, auto-sync.

This may have something to do with the placement of the current shunt in the
system. My current shunt is in the circuit right before the motor
controller, and thus does not see any current while charging, only discharge
current as the controller pulls charge from the pack. In that case, the
current seen during charge effectively doesn't change. If the autosync is
looking for a CHANGE in charge current to the level below 10A, it won't see
that. Puzzling...

Rob

Rob

-----
Electro, the Cabby-EV
http://chaosmgmt.blogspot.com 
http://www.evalbum.com/1426 
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

In any E-meter installation, it is best to place the shunt before the main 
contactor and main battery. The charger connection should be place on the 
shunt that is the same side that leads to the main contactor.

Therefore when you charge, the E-meter will show a charging current and a 
discharging current when motor is in use.

I also found it advisable to install a pair of battery contactors where one 
is between the shunt and main contactor and the other one between the 
battery and motor controller which is activated by the ON switch.

These contactors are off when you are charging and prevents charging current 
in the motor controller and may be even at the motor. With only one 
contactor, I found when I was charging, I had full charge voltage between 
the positive of the main battery and the chassis of the EV.

This chassis voltage was cause by the main battery negative passing through 
the motor controller and to a DC motor where the brush dust track down the 
motor shaft to the vehicle ground.

Installing these battery contactors, the chassis voltage was eliminated.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rob Trahms" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] TBS E-xpert Pro - autosync doesn't work


> Hi Tom -
> Yes, I have definitely used settings that should have been hit.
>
> I have set the following settings:
> F1.0 to 175V. My charger gets the pack up to 183.5V, and after charging is
> complete it spends about 8 hours getting down to 173.5V.
>
> F1.1 to 10%. For my pack of 100AH lithium cells, this would be 10A. When
> the charger tapers off toward the end, it goes from 13.5A to 0A over the
> course of 10 minutes.
>
> F1.2 to 5 sec. This basically tells the meter the moment the first two 
> are
> met for 5 seconds, auto-sync.
>
> This may have something to do with the placement of the current shunt in 
> the
> system. My current shunt is in the circuit right before the motor
> controller, and thus does not see any current while charging, only 
> discharge
> current as the controller pulls charge from the pack. In that case, the
> current seen during charge effectively doesn't change. If the autosync is
> looking for a CHANGE in charge current to the level below 10A, it won't 
> see
> that. Puzzling...
>
> Rob
>
> Rob
>
> -----
> Electro, the Cabby-EV
> http://chaosmgmt.blogspot.com
> http://www.evalbum.com/1426
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/TBS-E-xpert-Pro-autosync-doesn-t-work-tp3840496p3841449.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at 
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> | Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
> |
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
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> 

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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

Rob,

You explained the reason when you said that the charge current didn't
go through the shunt. How else would the meter know what the charge
current was. Besides, don't you want to meter all the current out of
and into the battery, not just the current into the controller?

Roland, Why have two contactors on the main contactor side of the
wiring? Doesn't the main contactor disconnect the controller and
therefore the motor from the positive side of the battery? Or are you
talking about a situation where there is a precharge resistor across
the main contactor rather than the controller doing its own
precharging?



> Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I also found it advisable to install a pair of battery contactors where one
> > is between the shunt and main contactor and the other one between the
> > battery and motor controller which is activated by the ON switch.
> ...


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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

David -
Yes, ideally I would place the shunt to monitor all current going into and
coming out of the pack. The current placement of the shunt is more of an
artifact of an old design (I used to monitor motor current with this shunt,
and recabled without moving much). Perhaps I will be moving this shunt at
some point, or installing a new shunt nearer the pack. Not high on my
priority list though 

Rob

-----
Electro, the Cabby-EV
http://chaosmgmt.blogspot.com 
http://www.evalbum.com/1426 
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## EVDL List (Jul 27, 2007)

The battery contactor on the main contactor side does several things. One 
if there is a fault in pre-charge circuit which my is a by pass resistor and 
one works as a emergency shut down contactor if the main contactor fails. 
The two extra contactors also shut down the accessory drive which is a motor 
generator made by Honey Well that converts the 180 volt DC battery pack to 
13.5 to 16 VDC, runs the power steering, A/C, vacuum pump and a water pump 
for heating.

If I do maintenance on the main controller, these battery contactors 
isolated the main battery from the motor controller.

Also I have a contactor between the battery charger DC output and the main 
battery pack. The contacts are rated for 50 amp DC and has a 120 vac 60 hz 
coil. This contactor is a Square D 3-pole Size 2 magnetic contactor where I 
have all 3-poles buss bar together that only breaks the positive current of 
the charger.

The PFC charger has a bank of capacitors in it that will hold a charge. 
When I lifted up one of the links of my battery with the battery charger off 
for a while, I get a spark when I remove the link. This is not good with 
lead acid batteries or have any spark producing devices in the same 
atmosphere of the batteries.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nelson" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] TBS E-xpert Pro - autosync doesn't work


> Rob,
>
> You explained the reason when you said that the charge current didn't
> go through the shunt. How else would the meter know what the charge
> current was. Besides, don't you want to meter all the current out of
> and into the battery, not just the current into the controller?
>
> Roland, Why have two contactors on the main contactor side of the
> wiring? Doesn't the main contactor disconnect the controller and
> therefore the motor from the positive side of the battery? Or are you
> talking about a situation where there is a precharge resistor across
> the main contactor rather than the controller doing its own
> precharging?
>
>


> Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > I also found it advisable to install a pair of battery contactors where
> > > one
> > > is between the shunt and main contactor and the other one between the
> ...


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