# Chevy S10 Conversion Vlog!



## Ivansgarage (Sep 3, 2011)

lifeinhd said:


> I'm in the process of converting a 1997 S10 to electric. I've been recording my progress and posting updates to Youtube at youtube.com/electruktv. There is no set schedule for releases, so be sure to subscribe for updates.
> 
> Let me know what you think.


Your link is no good. Here is a good one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZPTY4eAEF8

Looking for any tips on tilt bed or such. check out my web site
lots of picks.

http://ivanbennett.com/

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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Ivansgarage said:


> Your link is no good. Here is a good one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZPTY4eAEF8
> 
> Looking for any tips on tilt bed or such. check out my web site
> lots of picks.
> ...


Thanks, fixed. Should have tested 

I do plan to do a tilt bed, but not quite there yet. I've spent all afternoon today mocking up rear battery boxes using cardboard, and there's still plenty left to do. I want to get this on the road by Jan 21... we shall see.

And thanks for the sub!


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

You can come do my conversion next.  I've even done all the hard work of removing the ICE components for the most part. 

I watched your video, and if you don't want to use upholstery thread to repair the rip (cheapest option), you can get these seat covers (the most expensive):
http://www.iggee.com/shop.cart?action=ITEM&prod_id=CVY025
If I were you, I would try to find a matching piece of fabric and sew it over it.

I thought I had a picture somewhere, but I can't find it of how they turned out on my 1996 S-10 project.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Caps18 said:


> You can come do my conversion next.  I've even done all the hard work of removing the ICE components for the most part.
> 
> I watched your video, and if you don't want to use upholstery thread to repair the rip (cheapest option), you can get these seat covers (the most expensive):
> http://www.iggee.com/shop.cart?action=ITEM&prod_id=CVY025
> ...


Thanks for the info! While it's uncomfortable and unsightly to look at, with my limited budget/time the rip is on the back of my mind  but as I get more funds/time to fix more things up I'll get on it.

That video is actually a bit old, filmed mid-late December. As of now, the engine is out, the motor is in, and as I said above I'm beginning the slow and tedious process of mocking up cardboard battery boxes. My friend will be coming tomorrow to help out, and I've contacted a welder to build the darn things, so hopefully they'll be in by next week. (Anyone know where I can get steel sheets off-the-shelf for cheap? )

I've got lots of footage of engine removal/motor install edited, so more vids to come


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I went with a Pelican case to hold my batteries. If you really wanted it to be quick and wouldn't mind giving up some space in the bed, a Pelican case with some liquid-tight conduit going to the controller/charger would be easy to do. 
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81977

I am going to use my iPhone for the stereo, and if the iPad/iPad mini would fit in the space well, it might be a birthday present to myself or a 'completion present'...

And good job on buying a truck that was in decent shape. I am still kicking myself for not taking that advice...


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Just looked up Pelican cases, that's not bad, but as I'm using PbA I need to fit as many batteries into as small a space as possible, so I think a custom rack is the best option for me. Plus I don't want to be removing crossmembers if I can avoid it. Plus plus I'm not sure how well those cases can support 250-550 lbs 

I've just completed the design of the racks on either side of the driveshaft holding 4 batteries each, and I'm about to put them into CAD. Still need to figure how best to hold them up close to the driveshaft, where they can't be attached to the frame. Maybe need to add even more crossmembers.

They look good though. They will be insulated thanks to unpredictable VA winters and lined with wood thanks to unhelpful VA lawmakers, so a bit heavy but hopefully not overly so.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I have tested the cases with 300lbs + me(150lbs) sanding in it and bouncing with no problem. I'll agree that for lead, it might be more of an issue.

I'm not planning on removing any cross-members anymore.  I will have to bolt on a few more.

But, after you get the batteries and battery boxes in, the rest of the parts should go together somewhat smoothly.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

That's what I'm told. It should also hopefully get more "fun"-- mocking up cardboard battery boxes isn't fun. Ripping out engines, installing motors, installing components... those are the fun parts, and fun means I might gain an extra set of hands or two


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## Ivansgarage (Sep 3, 2011)

lifeinhd said:


> That's what I'm told. It should also hopefully get more "fun"-- mocking up cardboard battery boxes isn't fun. Ripping out engines, installing motors, installing components... those are the fun parts, and fun means I might gain an extra set of hands or two


I subed. to your video youtube, but how about posting some pics.

--


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Ivansgarage said:


> I subed. to your video youtube, but how about posting some pics.
> 
> --


My brother and I have been videoing the process, not taking pics, though I suppose it's not too late to start now  I'll take a couple once I'm home. When he's home I'll ask if there's any choice frames he can pull out of the video as well (he's volunteered to take care of the editing).


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## Salty9 (Jul 13, 2009)

lifeinhd said:


> (Anyone know where I can get steel sheets off-the-shelf for cheap? )


Have you considered using sheet metal from old appliances? Should get some good Mother Earth karma too.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Salty9 said:


> Have you considered using sheet metal from old appliances? Should get some good Mother Earth karma too.


Yes, but I thought it would be too thin. I was going to go for 1/8" thick steel, but a 4x8 sheet is over $100 + shipping ("off-the-shelf" doesn't really seem to be an option).


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

I've picked up 4x8 sheets of aluminum before for my job. There are metal warehouses here that you can call up and order from.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

I was just chatting with the potential welder when I had a "duh" moment. I'll just have a frame made out of angle iron and use some sort of strong wood as the sides. Assuming I have a solid enough frame, 1/2" pressure treated plywood may even be sufficient. Then I'll just spray everything with Rustoleum and it'll look great


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## Salty9 (Jul 13, 2009)

I would suggest using the Baltic plywood. It has more plies than normal plywood and should last longer. I would also suggest coating it with the pickup bed coating which should be more resistant to abrasion and acid effects from the batteries.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Salty9 said:


> I would suggest using the Baltic plywood. It has more plies than normal plywood and should last longer. I would also suggest coating it with the pickup bed coating which should be more resistant to abrasion and acid effects from the batteries.


That's birch right? I was just at Home Depot and I was going to go all out and get that at 1/2" thick, since it's incredibly strong, but I realized many build battery boxes using just angle iron. Me adding plywood to make it a proper insulated "box" is just a nice touch really. So I bought some 11/32" no-frills rough cut plywood and some insulation. I still think my boxes are overengineered, but that's preferable to my batteries falling out on the highway 

And Ivan-- I haven't forgotten about pics for you. Okay, I may have  but it's going on my to-do list for tomorrow.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Finally, some pics!

In order:
-Empty engine bay
-Engine is out!
-The area between the bed rails after dropping the exhaust and gas tank. Too many crossmembers for my liking.
-First battery box mockup in place. Only 3 sides, because that's all I really need. I'm just starting to cut wood to make them.
-A slightly closer shot of the same.
-The engine bay. You can just see the top of the CanEV adapter.
-A better shot of the motor, an FB1-4001A. It is not yet mounted to the frame. I thought I could somehow integrate a mount into my battery box, but I'm no longer sure that's possible. May require another CanEV order.
-Pile o' ICE junk, next to my latest new toy, a chop saw. Should be a lot easier to cut angle iron than my puny angle grinder.
-Another recent purchase, a pile o' insulation, plywood, and plastic sheets. Under all these are my 24 Trojan T105 batteries.
-And a shot of the battery box for the driver's side. Unfortunately I don't yet have mockups for the box behind the rear axle or the engine bay.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

My next video over at youtube.com/electruktv is up! This is not a video of my progress. Instead it's nearly 19 minutes of me explaining why I decided to build an EV, how I became interested in the first place, and a breakdown of some of my more major expenses. Perhaps not the kind of video anyone in this community is seeking, but it could be useful for anyone on the fence about starting a conversion.

I promise, "progress" videos are coming! My brother tells me he has two completely edited, but he can't decide on background music. And they need background music or else they're complete s***, instead of half-s***.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

If I had longer hair and wore glasses, we could be twins. Although my S10 will be white, I can use your vlog a if I made it myself. Thanks.

Except you get a lot more done in a shorter amount of time. I am a perfectionist and am waiting for all the right parts, and I had a lot of repairs and fixes I had to do among other things going on in my life.

But, I would like it if some controller, motor, or EVTV type of company sponsored a speed conversion contest. How fast could team of converters and mechanics strip a S10 truck and bolt the parts in...


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Hehe, my hair used to be even longer, I actually cut it solely because I was tired of getting the grit out of it after a day working under the truck 

Unfortunately I have a time constraint, 35 days and I'm back at school, only 16 days left. I honestly don't know if I'm going to make it, but I'm working (almost) full days (almost) every day. Tomorrow AM I'm going to make a 45 min trip up to Crazy Rays in MD, my friend needs to replace his valve cover and I figured I'd see if I can find a manual steering rack for the S10. Maybe the plastic grille right below the windshield too, since I may have accidentally dropped a crowbar through mine 

Fastest conversion I've heard of is 3 days, but somehow I doubt that's the record.


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

I've heard of em done in hours, but to even get it done in under a week you have to have done the same model multiple times before, have everything on-hand, all decisions made, and most parts pre-fabbed.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

I agree. And if you have specialized parts like the adapter plate and battery boxes prefabbed, does it really count as a record? There's a topic for debate


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

If you could buy the battery boxes off the shelf from a vendor, I would say yes.

For the random plastic parts, eBay is your friend. I have bought a lot of weird replacement parts from eBay and other car part stores on-line.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

That's a way of looking at it. I probably could have purchased my boxes off the shelf too, but I wanted insulated boxes for a certain size battery so I thought it would be cheaper to build my own. Now I'm not so sure  I've spent $150 on materials so far, I had to buy a $180 chop saw, I'll need to hire a welder for $xxx, and for metal I've been collecting free bed frames and chopping them up  I'm up to four acquired so far, but my calculations say I'll need 50 feet _just for the rear boxes_, so ~8 8-foot sections may not cut it. Plus I need some flat stock (30+ feet, again just for the rear) and rather than buy it I'll probably just cut some bed frame angle iron right down the middle. Somehow. I don't own a saw that can do that, and my puny angle grinder would take forever


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## Ziggythewiz (May 16, 2010)

Bed frames are great  a $10 4.5" grinder from HF should be all you need.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Update: I spent a lot longer at Crazy Ray's than I intended. A lot of time was spent searching for an S10 with a manual rack, the rest was getting the d*** thing out. We couldn't separate the pitman arm from the tie rod end-like thing it was attached to. In the end I had to buy a cordless angle grinder, and due to other mishaps along the way, total time spent, about 8 hours, including a lunch break. Ugh. Also managed to build my second battery box, now I just need to finish cutting my angle iron to size. That'll be today's task.


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

My third video is up! It's just me trying (and failing) to weigh the vehicle, as well as trying (and succeeding) to measure the ride height. I thought it was going to include me taking off the hood and bed, but apparently my brother decided to save that for another vid.

As an update on my more recent progress... there really isn't one. I'm still building battery boxes, as I have been for the past week and a half. It really is a ridiculously time consuming process. Here's an outline of the process:

-Decide approximately where the batteries will go
-Make sure the mockups will still fit even with the .75" I require on all sides for insulation
-Make cardboard mockups, making sure I provide for attachment points
-Put those mockups into CAD
-Figure out where I want the seams between the boards to be (taking into account both how strong a joint will be plus ease of construction)
-Put each individual side into another CAD file to find the best layout on an 8x4 sheet to make sure I don't waste wood
-Mark them and cut them out _one at a time_ (to ensure the saw blade doesn't interfere with my measurements, it's quite thick and my accuracy is down to 1/32")
-Assemble them (very hard to nail such thin wood together)
-Cut bed frame down to size (but that's an oversimplification. Before I can even do that, need to strip them of all rivets, wheels, etc.. Of course when I'm measuring and cutting I need to make sure all the 45º angles line up correctly, and my stupid chop saw has a built-in clamp that actually misaligns my angle iron after I set it up, meaning I have to constantly work to achieve a balance between too much pressure and my work flying about. Hard to explain here, but I'll get it on video. Such a PITA).
-Attach cut pieces to box using duct tape so I can measure other pieces
-Label all pieces, remove them, sand off the powder coating using some extra-course sandpaper on my belt sander so it can be welded (I've heard Permatex Gasket Remover works great for removing powder coat, but I can't find any locally and don't want to pay $20 for next-day shipping)
-Repeat!

And all of this is a very tedious, very nasty, very dusty process. And while I wear goggles, I can't wear a mask because my glasses fog up and I can't see what I'm doing, which is worse. So I'm forced to suck it up and inhale metal dust. Ugh.

I still have to get a welder out here too, probably twice since I can't really design the second part of my under-hood battery box until the first part is complete since tolerances are so tight. Moneymoneymoneymoney....


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## adeyo (Jun 6, 2012)

Where in Virginia? I'm in Lynchburg. Going to embark on a '98 s10 this summer. Have the motor mounted, but with 3 young kids and cold weather, no need to rush things. (plus I'm putting PV' s on my roof too). You can buy an inexpensive kit from EV America for the tilt bed, fyi. Complete with instructions. What did you decide for your battery box?


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

I'm in Fairfax. Unfortunately I'm feeling even more rushed than I hoped, since I'm working at Mom's place (beats my garageless apt) and she's talking about moving soon. A move would pretty much spell an end to the project, and I don't want to become one of "those guys" who invests a ton into a conversion only to sell at a huge loss due to lack of time, money, interest, etc. School starts in a week and I'm still building battery boxes, I didn't get much done over the weekend at all due to other obligations. But I feel if I can get the boxes built and mounted before school starts, I might be okay; besides mounting components, the rest is pretty much wiring stuff up, no major "construction" to deal with, and I might be able to take care of that in a couple weekends (assuming school doesn't consume me, an engineering degree requires a lot of work which requires a lot of time).

I've heard lots of advice on the tilt bed, EVAmerica def. seems to be reasonably priced at $150, but I've also heard of welding the bumper to the bed and installing only one bolt on either side of the bumper to allow it to pivot, which seems cheaper still  but I'll worry about that after it's moving under its own power.

Anyhow, the third part in the conversion series is up on Youtube. It's a short video where I pop off the hood and bed to prepare for removing the gasser bits. Sorry new vids are so slow coming, I would post them as soon as they're ready, but my brother wants to string them out so there's something of a rhythm to the posting schedule, and he has 80% of the footage so it's pretty much up to him


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

Yesterday part 4 of the conversion series went live on youtube.com/electruktv. I remove the gas tank, drain the oil, and start disassembling the top end of the engine. I feel this is the best-edited part so far, so I encourage you to check it out!

Two days ago the welder finally came by, he was a bit expensive, $225 and he only finished 2/4 boxes (he wasn't feeling 100% so this was understandable). While he did do a great job, I also found him a bit difficult to get along with, so I contacted another "hobbyist" welder who was willing to do the job quite a bit cheaper. We had an appointment set for today, until I got an email back from the first welder expressing how impressed he was with the project and offering to do not only the other two boxes but any other welding I needed done with the truck for free. Hard to turn that down, so he should be calling me this morning and hopefully dropping by today. 

At least I hope he can do today, because today is my last day of winter break, and I have no idea how my school/EV balance will look after today . Fridays I'm done with classes well before noon, so the idea is to head back to my mom's house after Friday classes to work some more indefinitely. At least until she decides to sell the house.

Unfortunately I won't be getting much done today, as I need to focus on cleaning up the area in front of the house where I dumped the ICE parts and the basement which is covered in a thin film of sawdust and metal dust. I also MUST buy a 6v charger for my batteries, preferably four weeks ago. It's bad enough I'm letting them sit in an unheated garage in winter (thank God temps have stayed above 32º) but not keeping them topped off is killing me (and them). I really should have held off until I needed them. Still kicking myself for not doing that.

Also I have to admit, I'm losing interest slightly. Working so hard on the same aspect of the same project for so many days in a row with no end in sight is difficult. What keeps me going is when I get in my car, release the brake and roll down the driveway without turning the engine on, just listening to the nonexistent engine noise. That's intoxicating .


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## lifeinhd (Jan 10, 2009)

My batteries are just sitting in the garage in 18º temps. I know I'm killing them  so I'm going to buy a battery charger for when we're back up to above freezing. Any recommendations? I was considering something like this. 30-60 amps, 6v with a timer (how long should I leave it on for? If I overcharge they should just vent, right?). Also posted in the "batteries" forum section.


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