# Planning a 2001 Pontiac Sunfire conversion



## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

Start with the batteries. How big will you need to go to get that range, how much will they cost, how heavy will the conversion be... Something like every 100 lbs of car takes 10 Watts per mile of battery power.

A light 2000 lbs car will take 200 Watts per mile. To go 100 miles will take 20000 Watts or 20kW. If you go with a a 120 V DC pack, you will need to use 166 Ah to go 100 miles then. Since you won't want to totally drain the batteries, a 200 Ah cell will be called for. And that is where things get tricky. 38 cells at 3.2V DC each costing ~$260 each = $9880 + shipping

And that is before any of the other stuff.

Distance right now isn't a strong suit. And now that they are making electric cars with batteries that are more expensive than that to go 100 miles, it would make more sense to me to spend $10,000-$15,000 more to get a new Nissan Leaf, (or C-Max Energi / Volt if you don't always go 75-100 miles)(after tax refund) and have a new car with the electric range. You could get a bank loan and financing as well.

If you could live with 35-50 miles range, then you could do something since the battery pack would only be ~$5,000 and would be lighter.


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## Beltanespirit (Sep 11, 2012)

Hmmm, right now I live in the country and the nearest cities are 20 and 30 miles away so that is why I put 75 to 100 miles for the distance. I don't even have $10,000 for the conversion. I would have to go piece by piece but I am afraid that if I by one piece by the time I am at the last piece the first piece will be obsolete or will no longer mech with existing ones. I know the federal government gives a $7500 rebate but the state of Michigan does not give any additional except for home charging stations.


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## Beltanespirit (Sep 11, 2012)

If I were to buy a used electric car what should I look for? Batteries are only good for about 3 years correct? What numbers/specs should I be looking for or looking to avoid? I saw a 1981 Ford Fairmont electric wagon from the dealer on eBay the other day that had new batteries and a new controller. Would this be to old an obsolete? Any help would be appreciated.


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## Caps18 (Jun 8, 2008)

For a 40-60 mile round trip just to get anywhere you should be looking at an EV1 type of vehicle, with Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. Sub 2,000 lbs with a good size battery pack. I will be taking my S10 to get weighed once I am finished, and I hope to be under 2,000 lbs. We will see. I might be biased, but a 1st gen S10 with an aluminum flatbed, carbon fiber hood or some other ways to reduce weight might be the way to go.

I would say that used or mostly converted is the best choice, if it works, but just needs new batteries.

Remember that battery prices should be coming down in the next few years too. And there are new Lead Acid companies in Michigan/Ohio coming out with better lead acid batteries in the next few years for a lot less cost, but with more cycles than existing deep cycle batteries.

There are some good deals out there on already converted cars. That would be the way to go, as long as the problems can be fixed and it will go the distance and be practical.

It would suck living that far away and with my car getting 20mpg in the city, that would cost me $8-$10 each time... That adds up fast. Keep in mind the professional cars, and they will be some on the used market soon. You can get car loans or financing, and save money for a down payment. There are some nice features of factory built cars since you need that type of range.


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## drgrieve (Apr 14, 2011)

My advice would be the opposite.

Start with choosing a car and then the drive train. Do the batteries last as this part of the EV technology is changing the fastest and they are the most $$$.

You don't have to convert the car you have. Consider alternatives. A lighter smaller car is cheaper to convert. Depends on what you want - commuter car, street performance car, utility car etc.

Direct drive is more expensive than putting a manual into an automatic or maybe just buying a manual upfront is easier.

For example a Miata is a popular vehicle to convert. It has lots of prefab parts available. Same with a S10. Have a look a EVAlbum.

Finally sweat equity will give your a better car than buying a new one for the money. Converting a lead acid car is also possible, but unless they used good components (and I'd doubt it) stay clear or only buy for the roller.

But a long range commuter car will be expensive but you can outlay the money over the build time frame. You can also start with half the pack, and when you have money add in the additional batteries.


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## Beltanespirit (Sep 11, 2012)

Right now we pay over $700 a month on gas. Does anyone know what to look/not to look for in a used ev? What is an ev1?


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