# Sevcon Powerpak and a D&D Motor...



## major (Apr 4, 2008)

MRVenom said:


> ...how can I tell if the motor is a SHUNT or SERIES wound motor. I've seen on other forums that SHUNT motors have A1, A2, F1, and F2 terminal and that SERIES have A1, A2, S1, and S2...is this true? Can I rely on that? Is there some other definitive way to tell?​


Hi Venom,

You got the S and F thing right. It is not universal, but I am pretty sure D&D follows this convention. The other way to tell for sure is to measure the field resistance. Series motor fields will be in the milliohm range, SepEx motors in the single digit ohm range and true shunt motors up in the hundreds of ohms.




> OK, next I have a SEVCON SEM POWERPAK controller...how do I wire this sucker up?? It has F1, F2, B+, B-, A and S with R copper lugged to B+.


Get the manual and read it  I have down loaded it from the web.

Regards,

major


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Here's a little update: today, after downloading the manual and having it look like Greek to me because I do not know or understand how to read electrical schematics, I came up with the following:

I checked my motor and to the best of my ability I have determined that the motor is a SepEx motor. Hope that's right.

On the SEVCON I hooked the F1 to the F1 on the motor, the F2 to the F2 on the motor, the B+ to the battery + (running through a contactor and fuse) AND to A1 on the motor, the B- to the battery -. Now, if you are keeping track, here's what's left...

on the motor I don't know what A2 goes to?? I'm guessing it this would be the Negative side of the motor?? Is this right?? Do I hook this to B- or to the chassis?? Does it matter??

on the Controller the B+ and R (??-what the hell is R for??) are hooked together. Is this right?? Why??

on the Controller, what are A and S for??

So, that's where I'm at right now. Any input?? Does this sound right?? I just don't know how exactly to read the schematics in the manual.

Ok, that's it for now. Please lend me a hand here. Thanks, CHUCK


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

MRVenom said:


> on the motor I don't know what A2 goes to?? I'm guessing it this would be the Negative side of the motor?? Is this right?? Do I hook this to B- or to the chassis??* Does it matter??*
> 
> on the Controller the B+ and R (??-what the hell is R for??) are hooked together. Is this right?? Why??
> 
> on the Controller, what are A and S for??


Chuck,

Do you have any friends or relatives who could help you? How about a basic course in electricity? Local community college? I am not trying to be mean, but if you don't understand it to this point, I can't imagine you getting the control wiring straight and the parameter settings.

And of course it matters. I have a meeting to go to tonight. If nobody else jumps in and tells you, I'll get back to you later with some of those answers.

Regards,

major


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Major, I don't think you're being mean. No, I really don't have anyone that can help me along here. It's weird because believe it or not, others usually come to me. I have been in the RV industry for nearly 15 years now, and I have installed everything from dual battery banks, inverters, converters, generators, and coach wiring from scratch, but this has me whooped. Never had to worry about a controller, a motor, or regen braking or anything along those lines. I'd be so simple if some just sad R is for this, S goes here, and A does that. Once it was complete, I'm sure I could understand.

Not even gonna go into the SEVCONTROL throttle right now..............CHUCK


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

I can appreciate your difficulty.
I spent most of my career as an electrician and mechanic and most of my hobby time making and building things from electric guitars to off road trucks.

Controllers, chargers and BMS have me beat unless the instructions are really simple and clear, preferably with step by step photos.

Don't worry about it, you are not alone.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

major said:


> If nobody else jumps in and tells you, I'll get back to you later with some of those answers.


The way I read it:

Battery positive thru fuse and contactor to controller B+.

Motor A1 to controller S.

Motor A2 to controller A.

Battery negative to controller B-.

Leave controller R as is, nothing connected except for existing copper bar.

F1 to F1.

F2 to F2.

No ground.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Thank you, THANK you, THANK YOU!!! I am getting so excited....little bits and pieces keep coming in and now I have some confirmation on the wiring. I got my diode and resistor for the contactor yesterday. I also got my Molex connectors. I'll post an update with today's progress tonight. Thanks again, CHUCK


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

MRVenom said:


> I got my diode and resistor for the contactor yesterday.


The Sevcon handles the precharge and coil drive for the main contactor so diode and resistor are not needed for those functions.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

WOW!! Really!?! That's awesome...so to confirm....no big 450ohm/10watt resistor on the big lugs of the contactor, and no resistor on the spade terminals?? This just keeps getting better and better. It's not a lot of time effort, or money, but it's saving me something .

Okay, I have the controller somewhat under control and the motor is all hooked up...now I want to ask about the SEVCON SEVCONTROL throttle. Should I continue with this thread of make a new post regarding the mounting and mechanics of the throttle?

Really, you guys, thanks so much, so very much. CHUCK


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

...Well, I have been trying to get my little project to point where I can at least make the wheels go 'round.

I own a trailer company don't ya know, and even though I keep the little El Car project at the shop these damn pesky trailers keep getting in the way, BUT I am close.

Major, I wired my motor to my control as you suggested. Now, I have started work on the 12 pin wiring and here is where I am getting some conflicting information....
per the SEVCON manual:
pin#1 to key switch
pin#2 since I don't have an actual F/R switch yet I simply have this hooked to a toggle and then to ground so that I can simulate ope and closed.
pin#3 Reverse, I have done nothing with
pin#4 grounded
pin#5 optional...left it alone
pin#6 digital pin...left it alone

Now here is very the conflict begins:

pin#7 digital pin...according to an SRE Bulletin on the SEVCONTROL, it says to connect the black wire from the SEVCONTROL to pin#7 and to ground...did that.

pin#8 in the PowerPak manual this is indicated as a line contactor BUT in the SRE Bulletin on the SEVCONTROL, it says to hook the green wire from the SEVCONTROL to pin#8 BUT it also indicates that the green wire is a 5v-0v output. Now why in the heck would you want to hook that to the line contactor line?

pin#9 Aux contactor...left it alone

pin#10 analog input...this is the 0v-5v input line from the accelerator, BUT the SRE Bulletin on the SEVCONTROL, already has you hooking this line up to pin#8.

pin#11 analog input 3.5v-0v...left it alone

pin#12 12+ output

Well, my first attempt at hooking this thing up led to a #4 fault...Contactor fault or open motor.

So now I'm looking for ore help and guidance...PLEASE Thanks, CHUCK


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

Chuck,

Can you tell me which model of PowerPak you have? I run the PP745 in my Gizmo and the PP784 is the same thing only a different voltage. There are several settings in the controller which affect what each of the pins do and I can probably help you if you have a way to program the controller. I've been through the manual many times and learn something new every time. 

EDIT: Appendix A on p. 53 of the manual outlines what the pins of the 12 pin connector do depending on what value is programmed into the controller. If you don't have the manual let me know and I can email it to you.

As for the connections to the motor:

B- and B+ are for battery inputs

On my controller B+ is jumpered to R

F1 and F2 go to F1 and F2 on the motor but not necessarily in that order. It depends on what direction you want the motor to turn when forward and reverse are selected.

A and S go to A1 and A2 on the motor

The controller does pull in the contactor but from my reading of the manual and also voltage measurements the controller does not provide its own precharge circuit.

HTH,


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

MRVenom said:


> WOW!! Really!?! That's awesome...so to confirm....no big 450ohm/10watt resistor on the big lugs of the contactor, and no resistor on the spade terminals??


I'm using a 50 ohm power resistor controlled by a relay which turns on before the controller pulls in the contactor. From my measurements of voltage across the contactor the voltage stays very high, it only drops a few volts, less than 10V IIRC, when the contactor is pulled in. I installed the 50ohm resistor because it precharges sufficiently fast without me having to do it manually since my DC-DC turns on quick enough. The inrush current is less than 1.4A which my 30A relay should handle just fine. If a lower resistance is used the controller thinks the contactor is stuck on and will fault.

FWIW, I'm now running a 64V nominal system.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Thanks for some more much needed info. Ok, here is an update of what I am doing...keep in mind, I am just trying to get everything to work, this is not installed in a car yet.

36volt battery bank: + goes to SW180 Curtis Albright Contactor
- goes to B- on SEVCON PP745 PowerPak Controller

SW180 Albright Contactor B+ from battery pack
B+ to SEVCON PP745 PowerPak Controller

in addition: I have installed a 470ohm/10W pre-charge resistor between the battery lugs AND a 3A diode between the blades BUT  should this diode be between the + and - thus up and down OR should it be between Battery side and Contactor side thus left to right??? 

SEVCON PP745 PowerPak Controller F1 to Motor F1
F2 to Motor F2
B+ to SW180 Albright Contactor
AND bridged to R
A to Motor A1
S to Motor A2

I'm thinking about trying a couple of more things:
I'm going to add another battery to get the voltage up to 48v.
I'm going to install the diode left to right, not up and down.

I have the PCpaK software, if you could help me make an interface cable for my laptop I can check all the parameters on the PowerPak and give you more information.

Thanks for the continued help, CHUCK


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

MRVenom said:


> I have installed a 470ohm/10W pre-charge resistor between the battery lugs AND a 3A diode between the blades BUT  should this diode be between the + and - thus up and down OR should it be between Battery side and Contactor side thus left to right???


The precharge resistor goes across the large contacts on the contactor and the diode goes across the small contacts on the contactor. For the time being leave off the diode. If you are running 36V you won't kill the contactor without a precharge either so you can wait on that to get things running. My rig ran for ~5 years without either. I only wish I could see the contacts to see how they have aged due to no precharge.



> SEVCON PP745 PowerPak Controller F1 to Motor F1
> F2 to Motor F2
> B+ to SW180 Albright Contactor
> AND bridged to R
> ...


That is good. The PP745 has a working voltage of just below 15V to 75V but won't pull in the contactor unless the voltage is below 70V.



> I'm thinking about trying a couple of more things:
> I'm going to add another battery to get the voltage up to 48v.


It isn't needed if you can program the controller. It may have come programmed not to pull in the contactor if the voltage is too low, however.



> I'm going to install the diode left to right, not up and down.


As noted above, I would leave it off for the moment. Once you get things working then you can install it.



> I have the PCpaK software, if you could help me make an interface cable for my laptop I can check all the parameters on the PowerPak and give you more information.


I don't have the PCpaK software. I was told by another person in Florida who has the Gizmo made just before mine that he couldn't get the PCpaK software to work with his controller and found out that it was not compatible with his PP745. He ended up getting the calibrator to program it. Are you sure the software will work with your controller?

The manual says there is a special "dongle" to convert the CAN bus communication to RS232 to then connect to a PC. Do you have this device?

Without knowing how the controller is programmed you may be very frustrated getting it working because there are so many different things that can mess things up. For example, when I was testing a PP784 controller I recently received it would go into full speed when I switched out of neutral. I had to reprogram the controller to work properly with my setup.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Gizmo,
I have the PCpaK software version 2.00.00 (UK0052). It states that it is compatible with an Millipak, Micropak, or Powerpak that is PCpaK enabled. I guess I'll have to determine of the 745 is in that list...


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

According to PCpaK document history, support for PowerPak SEM was added to release UK0052?!?!


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

I guess now it is time to find or build a "dongle" to hook up to it.

FWIW, I've attached a .pdf of the wiring diagram I am using on my Gizmo. Don't worry about most of it just look at the "controller connection B" on the left side of the schematic. You will see what pins I'm using. Pin 4 labeled FS1 has to be open some times and closed (shorted to ground or battery -) at other times. IIRC, it has to be closed for normal drive and open for regen to work. Its function can change depending on how the controller is programmed. Also, Pin 5 on your controller may be active too. I have it hooked to a "kill switch" in one of the steering handles in my Gizmo. I can't remember if this has to be closed to work or open to work but it is another thing to check if you aren't getting anywhere with the controller.

HTH,


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Giz...thanks so much for all your continued help. Today I did a little bit ore trouble shooting:

1st I double checked the contactor and it is functioning properly AFAICT. I have the B+ going in and coming out and a small lead running through a switch going to a small spade terminal with the other small spade terminal grounded. Flip the switch, contactor wakes up, 36v in and 36 v out. SG2M.

Next I decided to determine of the motor was any good. I checked for continuity between the Fs...all good. Checked for continuity between the As...all good. 

Then I decided to juice the motor directly just to see it spin. I took 2 individual 12 volt batteries and 2 pair of jumper cables. 1st I hooked up the small terminals...the Fs to battery #1. F1+ and F2-. Then I hooked up the battery ground and braced myself for the little spark as I hooked up the positive. I hooked up the motor first so that if there was an arc it wouldn't ruin the posts. Now for the big terminals...the As to battery #2. A1+ and A2-. Once again I hooked up the motor and then moved to the battery...this spark was BIGGER and then the wheels when round and round!!!!!!!!!!!!   YEAH...the motor is actually good....and so is the differential!! I made progress.

I'm thinking the issue is now with the controller. I'm devising my next troubleshooting plan of attack.

Check out my mess:


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

MRVenom said:


> with the other small spade terminal grounded.


Hey Venom,

Nothing in the high voltage battery, controller power circuit or control circuit should be grounded. Battery negative needs to be isolated from chassis and earth and therefore is not a ground. It can be a node at battery negative potential, but not ground.

On the other note, congrats on spinning the motor 

major


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

It is difficult for me to see what you have plugged into port B on the controller. For my controller to spin the motor pin 1 must be hooked to B+ from the "key". Pin 2 (Forward) or Pin 3 (Reverse) must be hooked to B-, Pin 4 (FS1) has to be connected to B- and so does Pin 5 (Seat switch). Pin 10 (Analogue input 0-5V) is to be hooked to your throttle. For the controller to start up without an error and the Forward/Reverse pins need to be "open" meaning not hooked to B- and pin 4 has to be "open".

The startup sequence needs to be: Key on (B+ to pin 1), Pin 5 "closed", Pin 4 (FS1) "open", and Pin 2 & 3 "open". Then close Pin 4 and either pin 2 or 3. You should have a steady LED on the controller and should be able to spin the motor.

AFAK, that is the minimum you need hooked up but controller programming might change some of that. If the LED is blinking there is an issue. Count the blinks and look up the code and also report back and I may be able to help. Maybe print out the pdf I attached to my previous message and mark what you have connected on the connector B printed on the schematic.


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

I forgot to add one more comment. You do know that you will need to mount the controller to a heat sink, right?


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

No, I didn't die!! Just been busy...and today was definitely a MONDAY!!

Anyway, here's the update. 1st a big thanks to Major for the info and the education. I did not realize that NEGATIVE and GROUND are to completely different things in the EV world,but now I do The first thing I did today was remove and relocate all ground wires to the B- lug on the battery bank. Ok, now my controller, contactor and motor are completely isolated. Thanks again Major.

Next, I got to work on all of Giz suggestions. I set up a bank of 6 switches so that I could easily control open and closed conditions. My first attempt was WITHOUT the contactor engaging...just wanted to see if I could get that solid green light. Pin #1 hooked to B+ through switch. Pin #2, #3, and #4 I had open through the switches and #5 was closed or negative. At this point I flicked the key switch to on and the light started blinking. Damn It!! I had my fingers crossed and was hoping for the steady green, but instead I got 2 flashes..."illegal start condition or illegal steer switch inputs". At this point I stopped, BUT should I have continued and grounded #4 and #2?? Well, I didn't. But I can, I will.

Then I thought maybe I should try with the contactor. I jumped of off my Pin#1 switch to the small spade terminal on the contactor and have the other spade running to B-. Drum role please...well, I flicked the switch, the contactor latched and now the light is blinking out a 4 "contactor fault or motor-open circuit" instead of a 2. What the heck am I doing wrong?? The motor itself works so how can I get a motor open? And the contactor seems to be working so how can it be at fault?

Open to more suggestions. Thanks again guys, can't wait to get this all figured out so I can get this project behind me and start on my Fiero GT/EV!


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

MRVenom said:


> Then I thought maybe I should try with the contactor. I jumped of off my Pin#1 switch to the small spade terminal on the contactor and have the other spade running to B-.


That is your problem. The contactor should hook to pin 8. The controller determines when to pull in the contactor. There is usually a 1-2 sec delay from key on to when the contactor is pulled in. The key should NOT pull in the contactor. The controller does a check of continuity through the contactor and if there isn't enough resistance it will give that fault. I tried something like a 25 ohm resistor across the contactor one time as a precharge resistor and the controller would fault. When I went with a 50 ohm it didn't complain. Also, the controller will PWM the contactor at 24V regardless of input voltage if that setting is enabled in the controller. I hear a high pitched whine from mine.

FWIW, if you decide you want a regen setup like on my Gizmo, Black Sheep Technology has a board which you should be able to use. It is in the Gizmo parts page. He built it for me when the throttle interface on my Gizmo went out and so he added in variable regen for me. It really saves on the brake pads on this rig. I used to only get 2500-3000 miles on a set of pads. I'm now well over 6000 miles on this set. I gain 3-4% from regen. I'd probably get more if I didn't have this regen down to 2-3mph. Under 12-15mph the regen current drops below zero and it pulls about 25A just before the controller drops regen.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Giz...Major...ANYBODY!! I'm freakin' out, I just don't get it! I'd pull my hair out if I weren't already bald.

I'm still gettin' a flippin' #4!!
Once again:
#1--key switch--B+
#2--FWD switch--B- open at start up (not grounded)
#3--RVS switch--B- open at start up (not grounded)
#4--SAFETY switch--B- open at start up (not grounded)
#5--SEAT switch--B- closed at start up (grounded)
#6--nothing
#7--nothing
#8--hooked to small + terminal on contactor
#9--nothing
#10--green wire from SEVCONTROL throttle
#11--nothing
#12--nothing

Ok, I have now installed a 470 ohm 10 watt power resistor between the 2 large lugs on the contactor. I'm stuck and need help. I know I'm close...do I need to change the resistor?? Is there something I can troubleshoot with the contactor?? ANYTHING!?!?! CHUCK


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Oh, oh, oh!!! Forgot to mention this....the motor, controller and throttle are from an Aero golf car. Don't know if that will help with setups or configurations, but I thought it might be worth a mention. CHUCK


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

MRVenom said:


> #8--hooked to small + terminal on contactor


In looking at the wiring diagram again I think you want the Key hooked to the + terminal on the contactor and the - of the contactor hooked to pin 8. Try that.

Also, note that if you power up with the direction switches closed and or FS1 (pin #4) closed you merely have to cycle through the open condition of both so both are open at the same time then close Pin 4 and a direction switch and it should clear the fault.

I'm going to post this and then go out and see if I can verify on my rig and then post back.

*EDIT: I just checked my setup and the contactor is connected to Pin 8 and the B+ from the key so it looks like that change will fix the problem.*


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

I'm just about ready to throw something!! Well, I hooked the contactor to B+ from the key and ran the negative to pin#8. I flipped my switch and everything held for about a second or 2. Then the contactor latched and I got a...drum roll please...a #6--accelerator, steerpot, or speed probe wire off. Well, I'll be an SOB!! I looked and check and hemmed and hawed and I'm just absolutely beside myself. Part of me is happy and relieved that this damn controller is so finicky and precise for safety sake, but the rest of me is just plain old wicked pissed that this project is taking so long to figure out.

Damn near down for the count.........now what?? CHUCK


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Ok I've been flipping through the manual and have an observation and question. Should the SEVCONTROL be juiced from the key switch at 36-48 volts or should it be juiced from the 12volt output from the controller??  CHUCK


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

It should be powered from the key switch at your pack voltage. The PP745 can power-up from somewhere around 14V to 70V depending on the programming. You can see on p.48 that the connection goes from B+ through a fuse through the key switch and then to Pin #1.

For the 6 flashes make sure you cycle the direction switch to neutral and FS1 (pin 4) to open. If the flashes code doesn't clear then the resistance of your pot is in the "drive" range. This could entirely be due to the programming of the controller.

Where are you in relation to me in Kelso, WA? You really need a way to see how the controller is programmed. Alternatively you could send me the logic unit and I can program it for you but I wouldn't know how to program the settings for the throttle without the throttle.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Well, I'd definitely have to stop quite a few times to charge up to get to Washington...I live in Elkhart, IN. I picked this stuff because it was NOS from a defunct golf car company so I figured it would be set up for a golf cart. Let me try to give everything a good going over today. If not I might take ya up on sending up the unit. Thanks for the offer, CHUCK ps....I'd still lik to figure out how to make a dongle for it.


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

GizmoEV said:


> The PP745 can power-up from somewhere around 14V to 70V depending on the programming.


Hey Giz,

Can you use a standard 5K pot instead of the PP745?

Thanks,

major


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

The PP745 is the model number of the controller. Looking at the technical specifications section of the manual it says that the analog inputs take either 0-5V or a 5K pot so I assume a pot should be fine. On my Gizmo I have a hall effect throttle so I have not tried any pot throttle input.

Chuck, maybe you could try a standard 5K pot for testing.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

I've attached a drawing of the SEVCONTROL I have.

Here are the instructions for install it (I have discussed the questions about the hookup ie pins 7 an 8 in an earlier post.

The SevControl harness contains red, black, green and white wires.

1. Connect the red wire to the key switch

2. Connect the black wire to the B7 input pin on the controller (the white/blue wire in the SRE wiring harness)

3. Connect the green wire to the B8 input pin on the controller (the white/green wire in the SRE wiring harness)

4. The final wire in the SevControl cable is white. We recommend that you clip and insulate this wire, however, if you prefer, you can connect it to the B1 input pin (the white/black wire in the SRE wiring harness) which is also used for the service brake switch.


RED wire: Connect to B+ (36-48V)
GREEN wire: 5V-0V output; connect to white/green wire on SRE harness
WHITE wire: 1MS switch; leave disconnected
BLACK wire: Connect to B- and to white/blue wire on SRE harness

Ok it would appear that this controller satisfies the requirement for the 0-5v input??

CHUCK


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

MRVenom said:


> GREEN wire: 5V-0V output; connect to white/green wire on SRE harness
> [snip]
> Ok it would appear that this controller satisfies the requirement for the 0-5v input??


I have a Sevcontrol which looks like the one in the drawing but the part number is 656/12036. I have not used it. It came with an eBay purchase of a calibrator and controller. One thing I note is that the shaft has no stop so it can spin around many times. Does yours do that? If it does there are two possible issues. First is that the "throttle" isn't at the stopped or zero position when the controller is powered up. The second possiblity is that the controller is programmed for 0-5V input and you are giving it 5-0V input or vice versa. I would hook up the Sevcontrol to the battery and then measure the voltage output on the green wire until you get 0V or very nearly so then try the controller again. If that doesn't work then try setting the Sevcontrol voltage to 5V and test it that way. Remember, you only have to cycle FS1 and the direction switches through an open state to clear most controller startup errors.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Yes, mine spins round and round freely, BUT mine also slides. I assumed that the control worked by either pulling or pushing in on the rod...thus the point of my other post regarding the installation and operation of the SEVCONTROL.

How do I set the SEVCONTROL output??

Thanks, CHUCK

(I'm close, aren't I??)


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

I just went out and hooked my Sevcontrol up to my PS and set it at 32V. I measured the voltage between black (B-) and the green wire. You are right. The turning doesn't affect the voltage output. The voltage started out at about 3.5V and would drop to nearly 0V as I slid the shaft. You might try holding the shaft at the other end of its throw and then power up the controller. That would test for 0-5V vs 5-0V.

As for hooking anything to pin B7 that is one of the digital pins and the only things I can see in the manual for what it can be programmed to do is Speed Cutback 2, Inch Reverse, Handbrake, Pump Trigger, and Brake Override Switch. Pin B8 is ONLY for the Line Contactor. Pin B9 can be programmed for Power Steer Contactor, Pump Contactor, or Electromagnetic Brake. I got these from the I/O summary page in the manual. It is on page 53. The table shows 15 options to choose from. My controller is set to use configuration 8.


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## MRVenom (Feb 7, 2011)

Well, Giz, if I'm not there I'm sure I'm close to being one big pain in the ASS!! Today, I spent some time at the shop and fiddled, and poked, and prodded, and plugged and unplugged and switched and nothing.

I have cycled and reset and restarted the controller over and over to no avail. I still have a number 2 fault. I have tried with the diode and without. I have tried with the resistor and with without. I have tried with the throttle held completely in and with the throttle let out. I have tried.

I am not used to not being able to solve technical problems on my own, but I guess this one is beyond me. Help again. Thanks, CHUCK

I'm gonna go to the Shack as much as I hate the Shack...(around here you must have to be really annoying and completely clueless to work there), and get a 5k pot for another round of trials. I NEED this thing to work.


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

Well, I'm sitting on a padded chair so I'm still ok.

I think the biggest problem is not knowing how the controller is programmed. It also will say what the fault is in something closer to plain language if you have a calibrator or other device. If you look at section 8 of the manual you can see there is a long list of possibilities with a 2F fault. Go through that and eliminate the ones you know are not the problem and report back. It might be that the controller is programmed for something we aren't looking for.

I wonder if there is anyone around your area that would have a calibrator. Like you said, it would take a few charges to get to Indiana from Washington. 

I checked eBay and there is a PCPaK dongle but it is for the MilliPak and I've heard that it likely won't work with our PP745 controllers. Besides, $350 seems a little steep.


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

For those reading this thread Chuck and I have found out some information about the controller logic in his Sevcon PP745 PN 662S45622 with a SN starting 2004 that the Calibrator (programmer unit) I have Part Number 662/14031 will only read the settings not change them. According to Sevcon the Calibrator part number must be 662/14063. I presume any lower numbered Calibrator will also have the problem mine does in changing the values. I have attached a table outlining each of the settings as they are in the controller. Hopefully it will be helpful for someone.

I successfully got Chuck's Sevcon logic board to boot up without any errors using the following connections:

I setup a 24V pack to test it with and I also used the Sevcontrol PN 656/12036. Here is how I wired things up.

B1 - key switch to B+
B2 - Fwd
B3 - Rev
B4 - FS1 (You might consider hooking the white wire of the Sevcontrol to this)
B5 - seat but I just hooked it to B- for this test
B6 - not used
B7 - not used
B8 - Line Contactor negative lead (other side of contactor to B1 side of key switch)
B9 - not used
B10 - not used
B11 - Green wire of Sevcontrol
B12 - not used (+12V output)

Hopefully this will be helpful to someone.


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## Stanley (May 1, 2011)

From Stanley I once worked as a lift truck mech. I worked scr, pwm, controlers ect. I have built two elec cars. I have had good experience with alltrax and curtis controlers. I bought a sevcon and can't make it work. The wiring manual is pictorial not according to industry standards (schematic), a box for a potentiemeter ect. 
There is little if any info on the difference for voltage and resistance speed control types of wiring. This company is in England they should be able to speak the Kings 
english? or use standard schematics and not pictoraial boxes! It seems they are very convoluted in their own knowledge and dont really want to share a practical way of 
using their product. Maybe somebody who decoded the manual will kindly share a 
standard schematic with the rest of us. The company in Calif that sold me the controller drew a schematic that they thought was right. I need help THanks


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

Stanley,

What model of Sevcon controller do you have? I have worked with the PP7xx series of SepEx controllers so may be able to help you out but I need more specifics.


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## Stanley (May 1, 2011)

I have a 80v 425a sep ex, I have tried various gounding for the switches
but may still have sequence off. I need to know if at start what is 
normally open or closed to ground and what is NC or OC in start sequence
I like your vehicle very much we may have identical 33-10 D&D and sevcons. Any help and I will very, very grateful. I am getting near 
sixty maybe I'm pre alzheimers and forgot something, I am currently 
checking the socket connector pins as one may have slid back slightly.
THanks Stanley


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

Stanley said:


> I have a 80v 425a sep ex,


That is a PP784 model controller.



> I have tried various gounding for the switches
> but may still have sequence off. I need to know if at start what is
> normally open or closed to ground and what is NC or OC in start sequence
> I like your vehicle very much we may have identical 33-10 D&D and sevcons. Any help and I will very, very grateful.


There are several different ways the pins on the 12 pin connector can be programmed. Without knowing the programming it could take a while to figure it out. Do you have the Calibrator to program the unit or at least a printout of the individual controller settings?



> I am getting near sixty maybe I'm pre alzheimers and forgot something


If you can't remember forgetting then you are probably ok. Besides, I've heard that if you have Alzheimers then you have more new friends than the average person.


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## Stanley (May 1, 2011)

From Stanley, thankyou for the help. I have the program sheet. I don't know what info would be needed volt limits,throttle delay? 1.124 foot brake level .1o seemed odd. this was the programming when I bought the 
device. All hope is gone when you can't joke about a situation so I took 
a few days to step back from this and start with a fresh outlook. Any help or ideas are appreciated Thanks Stanley


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

Is there a way you could post or email me the program sheet. It would make it easier for me to look through it and figure out how you have to wire things up. BTW, is this controller one you bought from golfcartqueen on eBay? If it is, I may have the settings since I have a calibrator which can read them.

Also, could you look at the bar codes on the controller and report the type? It is on the bar code on the bottom of the unit.


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