# 1998 Dodge Avenger



## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi - looks good

About forklift motors, read the thread under motors

You will probably want a drive motor rather than a lift(pump) motor,

Don't worry too much about voltage you will be overvolting it anyway
my 48v forklift motor is used in a 150v system
and its only 150v because my controller is limited to 150v


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Appreciate the advice, only issue Ive found so far is availability around here, Im going to be going to look at what he has available for pump motors later, but every junkyard/salvage yard I have been to so far has given me the Are you crazy? look. Seem most forklifts have been sold off as scrap and motors go right along with it. I have found a few on craigslist.. 




From what Ive read this one doesnt seem like a good candidate as it doesnt appear to have a shaft, as far as internals go, im still learning so it might actually be better for me to purchase a smaller lift motor and tear it apart and start learning.


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## Old.DSMer (May 18, 2012)

Nice ride(s) 

That motor above might have an internal splined shaft -- not easy to work with. Definitely look for one with a "standard" output shaft.

Parts FYI - maybe you already know - The Avenger shares many suspension/body/interior parts with the 2g DSM's (Talons and Eclipses).


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Scrws6

Forklift motors
My story
I couldn't find a motor - so I bought a cheap forklift
Unfortunately it's motors were not suitable
I got almost all of my money back + a lot of useful bits
Forks, tower, hydraulics - farmers use them on the back of their tractors
Battery - scrap value
main forklift - lot of steel - scrap value

While selling the bits I found a local forklift repair company
BINGO - they had a pile of motors they had been keeping Just In Case

Look for forklift repair/servicing and for motor re-winders


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Appreciate the advice and the kind words. I think I may have found what I need wth the guy I went to see today, as soon as I can get my photobucket to work again I will put up the pics, its pretty rusty and half buried in a leaf pile, but its from a 36v (from the vehicle placard, couldn't see the motors) truck, 6 hour continuous, and seems to be pretty hefty, will definitely have some pics for tomorrow as I will be finishing removal of the 2.5 l block, I am going to keep the auto transmission. From what I have been reading on the auto transmission thread it should be a little easier on the motor in case I won't be able to locate a bigger one or need to go dual motors, let me know if I have my wires crossed on this idea. The manual steering rack is next. I have read up on a few probe forums and they have an old proven method(supposedly) of turning a power to a manual by cutting off the PS pump. Those are the goals for this weekend. More to follow!


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

An electric P.S. pump from a MR2 it's working very well in my conversion.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19505


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

scrws6 said:


> The manual steering rack is next. I have read up on a few probe forums and they have an old proven method(supposedly) of turning a power to a manual by cutting off the PS pump. Those are the goals for this weekend. More to follow!


Power steering
On my Subaru this was a manual rack with a servo valve feeding oil to either side of a ram built into the rack
The manual rack was grease lubricated - not hydraulic oil

In order to convert it to manual I simply drained most of the oil and used a piece of pipe to connect both sides of the ram together.

This works well on my car BUT I have less than half of the weight on the front wheels that the Subaru had

Smaller cars like your dodge did not have power steering a few years ago BUT when they went to power steering they probably reduced the gearing

The only way to find out if it will be OK is to try it - I expect it will be absolutely fine except for parking


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

I am going to to try and keep this within the realm of my knowledge as far as mechanical goes, I do know of a few junked avengers I could get another rack from in case this fails. But I also kind of favor the bigger thicker steering wheels,( went with a pt cruiser wheel in the firebird) I will try and locate a larger wheel if need be to help turn. Thank you guys, love this site!


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Here are the pics I got of the motor, I wasn't able to get anything more in depth as its still buried in the forklift, but hoping maybe the info on the plate could be enough. finished up getting the motor out and getting some hose to route the transmission line back to itself, as well as the steering rack, as it would happen the rack didn't have the pump attached so I just disconnected the hoses and found the place where I can route them back to each other, Im not going to try and take it apart if I don't have to, I will do some more looking and see if this will be an issue. If anyone can see any details that I cant about this motor please let me know I will probably be looking to get it out of the forklift next weekend or so depending, its the best candidate Ive come across so far.


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Not quite sure I'm worthy of the praise just yet, appreciate the sentiment though. Do have a thought as far as battery storage though, I have a fair size tunnel that the exhaust used to run through, has anyone ever used something like that with a rack that drops down on swinging arms, and raises back again mechanically? Kind of like truck spare tire rack except with 4-6 rods on pivots?


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## TEV (Nov 25, 2011)

carsonelectric said:


> This is totally a stunner. You nailed it from its looks to its engine. I also believe in the durability of your vehicle because you have been using a forklift for the tractors. I admire your resourcefulness for that matter. Not many people are able to work with that kind of combination. Congratulations on this very beautiful product.



This is just spam .


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Lol... Roger that, feel good spam


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Alright, ive got my motor lined up as for getting it out if anyone has any advice on what i may need to bring with me to remove it? Its the same one in my pictures on the first page. Its on grass and dirt surrounded by weeds. Im figuring basic tools, sockets wrenches, hammers, he has a forklift jack out there, but getting the motor out without remving the lift portion? All the videos ive seen on youtube use another forklift on cement...


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Scrw
Take lots of thick bits of wood - scaffolding planks
Any stands and jack you have

TAKE CARE!!

Forklifts are heavy - and all of the bits are heavy as well


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Roger that, good call , will do, can't wait to start tomorrow!


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Well, I got it out, took some angling and some forklift bites, but about 3 hours and I got it out, just glad the batteries had already been removed.

I may have bitten off more than I could chew with this motor its very rusty, as in screws are going to need to get drilled out and the whole thing needs a good scraping and maybe a wire wheel go round? Guess my question probably needs to go to the forklift motor thread. Can I take this sucker apart clean and grind what parts I can save or should I just replace the guts? The comm looks ok to me, mostly the brush holders and brushes need replacing and the (field coils?) need a good brushing off.
Let me know what you all think, Im ready to get it all ripped apart and start work as this is the heart of the machine.


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## mora (Nov 11, 2009)

Looks good to me. Remove field windings carefully, brush all the dirt away, then wire wheel it clean. It doesn't help with performance but looks way better. Heheh. Don't break the insulating varnish around the copper wires and don't scratch pole shoes too much. No need for gut replacement other than possibly bearings and brushes in my opinion. Bearings should be easy to replace when you find the correct size replacements. Commutator surface needs some care but it might run as is. Poorly though. Don't touch comm surface with wire wheel or anything abrasive yet.


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Appreciate the advice, much as it may not help performance at this time, it does make a difference in my confidence to be able to see under the rust, some of the screw heads are feisty to the point of breaking off, I'm going to see if I can get agile of Warfield in IL and see what they might have for replacement brushes, some of the insulation is crumbling off, ordinary resin a good replacement for that? I have a good amount of that. Many thanks you guys!


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## favguy (May 2, 2008)

Yes, that will probably come up really nice after a good clean and paint, pop in a new set of bearings whilst your at it.

Doesn't look series wound though the field coil windings are small and round so probably sepex, so bear that in mind, it will limit your controller choice a bit.


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Its sepex? Sorry my experience isn't all that great, the windings are small? Again they look huge to me.. I'm doing some looking right now but if that's going to be more of a pita than its worth, may have to switch gears on this, any way to verify? I have looked at the part number of the motor(Google search) not much help... Thanks for the heads up..


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## favguy (May 2, 2008)

Hi,

I've just replied to your motor thread, but this isn't a series wound motor, the windings are for sepex, nothing wrong with that, but it does limit choice of motor controllers somewhat.


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Roger that, appreciate it. I did reply back, I guess I'm dissapointed a bit, but I think that's more with it seeming like the series motor is the better choice, but the difference is moot with the right controller and setup correct? Guess I'm going with this motor, and keeping my auto transmission won't hurt either right?


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## scrws6 (Sep 4, 2013)

Motors all cleaned up, just have to wait on the new brushes and top bearing, meanwhile been cleaning up the rust and holes underneath, nothing structurally damaged. But rust preventing undercoating did nothing but seal it in. I am impressed by the interior and quality that DSM, CHRYSLER, whoever did on the inside. Looks better and better quality materials than my firebird. Nobody really digging the battery storage rack huh? That's alright I'm going to rig up a prototype and see how difficult it would be. Meanwhile I've acquired some 2 gauge welding cable and some steel hopefully to start working on a motor mount and battery racks later. Will have some pics up later.


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