# El Moto (Electric Motorcycle)



## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

This thread is to describe the build/conversion of my fair weather friend, El Moto

She started life back in 1980 as a Kawasaki 440 LTD Custom Cruiser style motorcycle

Engine: 444 ccm. (27.09 cu. in.) 27 HP (19.7 kW) @ 7.000 rpm

top speed: 95.7 mph

Front tire: 3.25-19 Front brakes: single disc

Rear tire: 130/90-16 Rear brakes (expanding brake)

Weight (inc. gas & oil) 405.7 lbs


Started off by 

...taking the bike to get it weighed 

Beginning weight 

...without carbs, gas or battery

...was 380 lbs.

so, it looks like we lost ~25 lbs. already

Next, was draining the oil from the engine

...while it was draining, I

...removed the left engine side cover to expose the main drive gear

...took measurements & pics from a few different angles

...to establish exactly where that main gear was located


* It's very important to mount the electric motor, so that it's main gear is in relatively the same location 

If it's mounted too high or too low

...there will be problems with the chain "slacking" (becoming loose or too tight) as the rear wheel travels up & down


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Removed the seat, tank & the side covers & put them away so, they don't get damaged

Now, this engine has gotta go 

...found the master link, sprayed (looked like it had been on there a while) & removed the chain

...took pics & measurements of where the exhaust pipes were mounted

I want remount the exhaust pipes to help maintain the look of the original bike (I need to know where they were without the engine there)

...this engine is mounted on the top-n-bottom & the front-n-back

...& weighs a ton (actually ~ 125 lbs.) (weighed on a bathroom scale)

Removed the engine on July 30, 2017 

Next was to power wash the frame/motor compartment

So we have a clean slate to work with 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1IUs5TG9HU


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Next, was to figure where to put the motor

From my research, most people just put it
...in the lower rear of engine compartment
...to keep the main shaft/sprocket roughly where the previous one was

So, I placed the motor in the lower rear
...& did some measurin'

Then I tried it
...forward a little
...back a little
...on an angle
...even sideways

While trying different motor placement ideas, 

I noticed a pocket between the side covers (where the battery & air filter used to be) that I might be able to fit the motor up into

I said, Hmmmmm

The motor would be mounted to the top of the trailing arm & a jack shaft would be mounted below (to help route the chain)
...both moving with the rear wheel kinda like a hub motor

Placing it there would leave alot more room for batteries & other stuff
...& the chain would be shorter (less weight)
...& it looks kinda kool

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Escb_E891e8&t=33s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUfhil1jfqE


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Before I could go much further, 

I had to make a few decisions

Chain:

...the sprockets I have for the motor are for #40 chain (1/2" pin to pin)

...the sprocket on the rear wheel of the bike is #50 chain (5/8' pin to pin)


So, do I go with #40 chain & gears or #50 chain & gears?


Well, 

...(A) I already had a 10 tooth (I can use on the motor) & a 15 tooth sprocket (I can use on the jack shaft), a 54 tooth rear sprocket, plus ~6' of # 40 chain 

...or (B) if I went with the Heavy Duty #50 chain, all I have is a 45 tooth rear sprocket

...I would have to order (2) gears, (1) for the motor & (1) for the jack shaft & 10' box of #50 chain


So, for now, I went with plan A

Because I already had most everything

...& a bit smaller chain will reduce overall weight

...& a bit smaller chain should also reduce power required from the motor(to move it)

...& a bit smaller chain will be easier to route (between frame rails)


OK, so going with plan A

...next, I had remove the rear wheel & change the sprocket

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3riPW7U4QQk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boTUgLzOe00


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Another decision I needed to make was about the batteries & voltage

For now, I have it set up to run @ 36V

So, it uses (4) 12V-35AH batteries
...(3) batteries (in series)(60 lbs.) to run the propulsion system
...& (1) battery (20 lbs.) to run the 12V system on the bike (lights/horn etc.)


Then later, I can easily upgrade to 48V with minor changes
...by adding the fourth battery in series with the other three & switching to a 48 V solenoid


Then, later if/when I can afford it

...to reduce weight & extend the run time

I can upgrade to a 48V-47AH lithium Ion VOLT battery (45 lbs.)


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Now, we know where the motor goes
...what type chain & sprockets were using 
...the battery set up
...& that the motor is being mounted on to the trailing arm

Next, we needed to make a jack shaft type set up to help route the chain around the trailing arm 

Our jack shaft consists of:

...a piece of 3/4" hardened steel axle shaft with key way & retainer ring grove (will cut to size)
...(2) pillow block bearings (for 3/4" shaft)
...a 13 tooth sprocket (I already have)
...~1" piece of key stock
...maybe a washer or (2) 
...& a retaining ring


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

You may have problems with chain wear and skipping with the minimal chain wrap around the motor sprocket- keep an eye on it. What you call a jack shaft probably would be usually referred to as an idler shaft. Sprocket makers have idler sprockets: https://www.mdsofmi.com/product/idl...MI7pGkyun_1QIVWsayCh01Hwn-EAQYAiABEgLIFvD_BwE that could make for a cheaper and easier idler set-up.

Some folks have encountered problems with motors mounted on the swing arm. The windings in the motor being damaged by the extra shock they receive. You might consider putting some extra coatings on the windings to hold them in place better.


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

electro wrks said:


> You may have problems with chain wear and skipping with the minimal chain wrap around the motor sprocket- keep an eye on it. What you call a jack shaft probably would be usually referred to as an idler shaft. Sprocket makers have idler sprockets: https://www.mdsofmi.com/product/idl...MI7pGkyun_1QIVWsayCh01Hwn-EAQYAiABEgLIFvD_BwE that could make for a cheaper and easier idler set-up.
> 
> Some folks have encountered problems with motors mounted on the swing arm. The windings in the motor being damaged by the extra shock they receive. You might consider putting some extra coatings on the windings to hold them in place better.


Thanks for the tips: I will keep an eye on things

The motor is mounted right over the fulcrum
...which affects weight transfer
...& minimizes motor movement

Learning as I go


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

The motor mount hangs off the trailing arm by a couple of inches

It shouldn't be a problem

Thought about just cuttin' the extra off

NO, we want more support - NOT less
...& I don't want to modify/damage the motor mount too much (if this plan don't work out)

How about extending the trailing arm a bit by adding a box to the front edge?
...that would look good & give the motor additional support

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvE4Ir8pxPk


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

I rounded up a piece of steel with a nice bent edge that I can use to make the motor mount extension

After trying many variations I found that standard pillow block bearings won't work
...the foot print is too big
...& they stick out into rear tire area

So, I did some research,

I found that they make threaded base pillow block bearings, which don't have the bolt down flanges

Now, that we know where the jack shaft needs to be mounted & the bearings will fit 

Next, was to get the jack shaft mounted to it's plate

Then, I disassembled it & used it as a guide to get everything lined up & mounted on to the bike
...using the jackshaft plate as a template, I drilled the holes into the trailing arm
...then, I used the jack shaft plate & trailing arm as a template to drill the holes into the motor mount plate
..then, I lined up the motor with the rear sprocket & jackshaft sprocket & drilled holes into the motor mount

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4zEj0xQ9g0&t=150s


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

That was tedious
...gettin' all that stuff lined up & drilled

I had to unhook the shocks
...drop the rear wheel
...lay the bike on its side
...all while not breakin' or scrachin' nuttin' 


Everything seems to line up OK 
...the motor & jackshaft are mounted
...the trailing arm is solidly sandwiched between them
...the chain seems to run smoothly
...& it looks kool


...I would call it "mechanical art" 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3EOoFsOFu4&t=1s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFKgGyDU0IY


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Next...component placement

The first task was making the breast plate

This is where 

...the exhaust pipes will originate
...the main power cut off will be mounted
...& where our solenoid will mount

I used a piece of 1/8" x 3" steel 
...with a couple of custom bends
...it mounts just inside the (2) front frame rails


After cuttin' the exhaust pipes off
...I used a dremel to smooth the edges
...then coated the edges with liquid rubber (didn't want metal to metal squeakin')


I bolted the stock exhaust flanges to the breast plate 
...& coated the inside of both flanges with liquid rubber


When I mounted it on the bike
...I tucked the pipe ends into the flanges & secured them with screws up thru the bottom


Then is the speed controller mount
...that's what holds the speed controller (the brain) in place

I tucked the speed controller, sideways, up under the gas tank (it will be protected & have lots of air flow)
...it gets hot so, ample cooling is best
...but, it's kinda delicate & all the main electrical connections go there so, it's gotta be protected too


Plus, it'll look cool too with the shinny lines of the controller & the cooler (heat sink)

I used a piece of 3/16" steel to make a mounting bracket 
...it bolts to the speed controller/heat sink on one end 
...& on the other, it bolts to where the coil for the old gas engine bolted to the frame of the bike


The throttle bracket is where
...the thumb throttle will be mounted & the bracket that holds the stock throttle cable 
...simple piece of 3/16" angle steel 
...with a piece of 7/8" od. water pipe welded on
...it is mounted under the tank also 
...where the upper gas engine mount used to be bolted to the frame


I even used the nut & bolts from removing the engine to mount most of the electrical components

I also added the (2) LED indicator lights for the speed controller in between the turn signal indicator lights on the dash
...& I replaced the tachometer with a charge meter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYukp1LCrMQ&t=8s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brv_eddtI0I


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Once, all the custom mounting brackets are fabricated & sealed up

Next. I had to get 'em on the bike

First, I mounted the speed controller on to it's bracket then on the bike
...mounting was simple 
...but, when bolted down tight, a flange on the heat sink stuck out a bit & the tank would not clear (it seemed to clear OK in pre fitting)
...so, I had to trim the flange off

Next, was the breast plate

...after installing the power cut off switch & bolting the exhaust flanges on 
...we need to get it mounted to the front frame rails, under the fuel tank
...I didn't want to drill into the frame so, I used (2) rubber coated hydraulic hose mounting straps
...they wrap around each of the frame bars & hold the breast plate in place nicely with a couple of nuts & bolts


Once mounted, I added the solenoid & bracket


Next, was the thumb throttle bracket
...pretty simple mounting also, used existing holes (was for the engine coil)
...tucked right up under the tank right behind the speed controller
...pretty close to where the carburetor's used to be
...so, I can use the stock throttle handle & cable for an authentic feel


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Dasdi said:


> it's interesting


 
Thanks, It's fun to ride & rolls out very smooth.


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Next, is wiring our propulsion system



I started at the speed controller
...install cable J1 & J2 by screwing each connector into it's designated location on the speed controller


Then start running the different wires to where they go
...throttle input wire goes to the thumb throttle
...brake signal wire goes to brake switch area (have to mount a separate switch)
...indicator lights (red & green LED's) go to dash area
...solenoid signal circuit wires go to solenoid on the breast plate
...thermosister wires goes to the (back side) motor area
...& finally, wiring an on/off switch for the controller


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

The components I used for the propulsion system are:

Motor: Manta II 24V-48V Brushed DC motor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manta-II-10...368606?hash=item281b84a0de:g:iMQAAOSwZ1BXduj5

Speed controller: Kelly kdz72550
http://kellycontroller.com/kdz7255024v-72v550aseriespm-p-965.html

Speed controller heat sink:172mm aluminum
http://kellycontroller.com/172mm-aluminum-heat-sink-p-1187.html 

Main Fuse: CNL 500A
http://kellycontroller.com/cnl-500a-fuse-p-120.html

Main contactor: kzj 36VDC coils 400A
http://kellycontroller.com/main-contactor-kzj-36vdc-coils-400amps-p-1153.html

Precharge resistor: 36V precharge resistor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Resistor-Pr...d=251215909594&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Diode: 3A HD solenoid diode
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Amp-Heavy...d=271141000800&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Power cut-off: Battery kill switch
https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-cutoff-switch-63425.html

Charge meter: LED 36V State of Charge meter
http://kellycontroller.com/meter-led-36volt-state-of-charge-p-204.html

Batteries: (3) 12v 35AH universal AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) lead acid
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-35-amp-hour-universal-battery-68680.html


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## Ivansgarage (Sep 3, 2011)

Mounting motor on swing arm!
I have been riding this bike for ten years and only replaced the batteries once.

More pictures on my web site:

http://ivanbennett.com/e-cycle.html


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Ivansgarage said:


> Mounting motor on swing arm!
> I have been riding this bike for ten years and only replaced the batteries once.
> 
> More pictures on my web site:
> ...


Nice E-Bike!

Motor on swing arm too, I like it!

Yup, I was just barely able to tuck it up in there & it clears everything quite nicely.

I thought about the swing arm thing a while, before I did it. 

I figured hub motors bounce along with the rear wheel so, it's not like its not been done before.

...plus it left so much more room for everything else

...creatively placed & with lots of air flow for cooling


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Now, for the battery pack

The original plan was to set up the (3) 12V 35AH batteries "pyramid style"
...& to use (1) smaller 12V 12AH battery to run the 12V system on the motorcycle

So, I placed a piece of thin (16g.) steel across the frame rails 
...set (2) batteries side by on it
...then, I sat the third battery on top of them
...& the smaller battery was to sit in front of them (below the solenoid)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXbEMXZ0um0


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Working on the framework for the batteries 

I reevaluated the "pyramid style" plan

It seemed to waste valuable room 
...& it wasn't a good pretext to future upgrades

The propulsion system is currently set up at 36V
...just as a starting point 
...I learned to start small & work your way up (voltage & weight)
...but, the motor is capable of handling 48V


48V is the ultimate goal

So, thinking ahead I figured
...lets set it up like it's 48V now 
...& use (4) 12v 35AH batteries 
...(3) for the 36V propulsion system & the other (1) for the 12V system on the bike

Simpler mounting
...flat bar hold downs, no fancy bent up brackets
...& no stacking of batteries


Now, it's easier to (later) up grade the power to 48V
...just change the solenoid & reconfigure some battery cables 

& to (later) up grade capacity
...the area will also hold a 48V 47AH Volt battery 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvyuobdxOwA


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

To begin, I just set the batteries 
...on a thin piece of steel 
...that was sittin' right on the frame rails
...for placement/measurement purposes

But, the gas engine (the main weight inside the frame) wasn't just sittin' on the frame rails

It was kinda suspended above the frame rails & supported on the sides

So, I am NOT going to just sit the batteries right on the frame rails

I think, I came up with a simple but, kool solution 

I can use a couple of pieces of angle steel for the base
...that attach to the lower rear gas engine mount
...they will junction with a couple of pieces of 1/4" x 1" steel coming down (behind the frame) from where the front gas engine mounts were bolted to the frame
...this way the batteries will be suspended within the frame just like the gas engine was
...I can even reuse the stock bolts (from removing the engine)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8VBKvGCHqo&t=3s


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Batteries are all mounted & secured 

To run all of the cables for the batteries

I had to use 
...almost 10' of 4g. battery cables
...(11) 1/4" cable lugs
...(6) 3/8" cable lugs
...& purchase a lug crimper

So, currently I have (3) of the batteries wired in series to provide the 36V for the propulsion system
...& the other (1) battery is wired to the motorcycle's 12V system (lights & signals)

Final check list:
...double check the solenoid wiring 
...double check the battery cable connections 
...& make sure ALL connections are tight
...solder & add heat shrink to the 12V wire connection on the bike
...notch chain guard
...clean & polish the chain guard 
...install chain guard


Triple checked everything (twice)


Everything seems done 

Lets give'er a try 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbuHfLuB5Qo


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Now, for the 12V wiring on the bike

We don't need
...the gas engine coil (supplied spark)
...the starting solenoid (engaged the engine starter)


So, I donated them to a local motorcycle repair shop


The other stuff, I'm not sure about
...so, I'll leave them alone for now (rectifier etc.)


So, the main power wire started at the positive (+) battery cable going to the solenoid

So, I cut the wire at the solenoid & soldered on a piece of 10g. wire with a fuse block running up to the positive (+) of the 12V battery


I bolted the ground wire that went to the solenoid, to the frame
...& also ran a black 10g. wire from the frame to the negative (-) of the 12V battery


Turned the key on

Yup! we have 
...lights (head & tail & instrument)
...turn signals
...& even the horn works


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Here is a video of my first test ride 

It's a very quiet runner, I heard mostly wind & tire noise

Rolls out smooth, has really good acceleration & the top speed so far has been ~26 mph

I put ~7 miles on it during my ride

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brqfLud-Ygc


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Late up date

Back in October, I did some more crusin'

It's still not registered or plated so, I took it up to a local Wal-mart & cruised around the parking lot. It was great! 

Started off with 9.4 miles on the trip meter

Put 'er out in the wind & opened 'er up.









Within 20 minutes, I had put another 6 miles on her & she was still running strong

It has great acceleration but, tops out & seems like it needs another gear (I found myself wanting to shift to the next gear several times but, there is no next gear)

I rode El Moto like nearly a half hour before the batteries got too low & the low voltage protection kicked in.

It would of been nice to have a "low battery" warning light or something 

so, I didn't have to push it like 1/4 mile back to the truck









but, the batteries must have recovered or leveled off a bit because, when I got back home, the bike would "go" again 

So, I rode it into the back yard to recharge.

* Before charging the batteries tested @ 36.4V with my mm 


While charging the batteries back up I figured that I could finish up the brake switch issue.

The bike has (2) brake light switches.

...one in the front brake lever housing (for when you apply the front brakes)

...& one on the right rear engine mount bracket that attaches to the foot pedal for the rear brakes, by a spring


The front one is fine, it's the rear one that's the issue

...first of all, it was mounted to the inside the frame

...but, that's where the motor is now & it doesn't clear/won't fit


If I just mount it outside the frame

...but, it would stick out & look kinda goofy

...& I also need to add another (totally separate) brake actuated switch 
(sends a signal to the controller to cut the power to the motor when the brakes are applied)

...& on some models turns on the regen feature


So, Ima gonna make my own

...that wont stick out so far

...& will hold (2) brake switches

I'll use a piece of angle steel

...But, I'll do some body work so, it don't look like a bracket made outa angle steel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdwRuXyiqms&index=25&list=PLoL6eIYWPO_nZYYAumnkE7RowDoBCsuCh


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

I have a state of charge meter that, as of now, connects by (2) alligator clips to the 36V battery pack

...(1) to the positive (+) post

...& (1) to the negative (-) post 

But, it's a pain & inconvenient to have to (& remember to) manually connect & disconnect it every time


So, I was thinkin'

...maybe I can use a relay to switch the 36V meter on & off with the 12V motorcycle ignition

* I am Not sure if a 12V relay can handle 36V runnin' thru it

But, were gonna find out


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Yup, this relay set up seems to work just fine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grNEJ7zbxFY

But, this "charge meter" http://kellycontroller.com/meter-led-36volt-state-of-charge-p-204.html
...is more like an economy gauge
...during normal riding the "meter" usually drops down to ~70%
...during hard acceleration it drops down to ~20%
...it doesn't really show the actual "state of charge" of the battery pack 
...NOT impressed

I also ordered some upgrade stuff
...a programming cord
...48V solenoid contactor (with resistor & diode)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EEotMgxaio


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Got our order from Kelly 

time 'ta upgrade 'er to 48V 

Just had to 

...switch out the 36V solenoid with the 48V solenoid

...& reconfigure the cables to include the 4th battery 

I made up (3) new matching 4g. connector cables 

...to connect the batteries in series

From doin' research, I have found out that the battery pack should be set up as a single unit


ALL 

...of the connectors should match

...of the wires or cables should be of the same material & length

(this should reduce the likelihood of resistance differences that may cause problems in the battery pack)

Next, I wanted to cover up all of these open terminals on the batteries, solenoid, cut-off switch & the controller

So, I rounded up like (20) rubber battery terminal covers off of old riding lawn mowers

...had to do some body work to make them work


Lets see what 48V can do 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBU6qdzbzdc


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

I received the 48V to 12V voltage reducer I ordered for El Moto 

I had been running the bike off of 3 - 12 35AH SLA's & the bikes electrical system off of a separate 12V 35AH battery

But, now it's running at 48V (I added the 4th battery in series with the other 3)

The voltage reducer that I ordered is for adding lights & a car stereo to golf carts.

They come in 10A, 20A, & 30A models

I don't think the motorcycle's 12V system should draw over 10A

but, I got the 20A to be sure 


I removed the rectifier (an unneeded part of the gas engine battery charging system)

...to make room for the voltage reducer


I wired a fuse holder/20A fuse into the (red) 48V positive (+) input coming from the battery pack to the voltage reducer

...& wired the (black) 48V negative (-) to the battery pack


I wired the (yellow) 12V (+) positive output & the 12V negative (-) to the motorcycle's electric system


Before final connection to the bike

...I checked the out put with the MMeter 

...meter shows 12.2V 


Tested all systems

...head lights (low & high)

...turn signals

...brake light

...even the horn

ALL systems checked OK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVK-RWchJVQ


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

Quick update

This spring, I want to upgrade 'er from the (4) 12V 35AH SLA batteries (~80 lbs.) 
...to a 45V 47AH (2Kwh section) of a Chevy Volt battery (~45 lbs.)

I want to do it, "safely" so, I have done lots & lots & lots of research.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...lt-battery-bms-charging-questions-190594.html

While doing so, I discovered a few things that I set up kinda wrong









http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/big-red-button-manual-cut-off-191738.html

1.) the main power disconnect cannot be turned off (in an emergency) while riding the motorcycle (it's too far away)
2.) the speed controller on/off switch cannot be turned off (in an emergency) while riding, either (it's under the seat)

So, instead of the power disconnect I am currently using (out of reach) 
I am going to mount a circuit breaker right on the battery lid, next to the positive (+) terminal 

Reasoning: 
This way it will be within reach of the rider (in an emergency)
...I can use it as the power disconnect (for maintenance or storage)
...& it will eliminate a battery cable

*I am also going to (try) a 48V 150A circuit breaker, instead of the 500A fuse, that I am currently using

Reasoning: 
Circuit breakers are resettable (if you blow a fuse, you better have a spare one - with you & the tools to change it) 
...& I may be able to use it as a governor to help me keep the amp draw down 

For the speed controller on/off switch
I am going to connect the speed controller on/off wires to a relay, that's connected where the engine spark coil wires used to connect (where the SOC meter is connected - now)

Reasoning:
This way I can use the "stock" motorcycle off/run/off switch (on the handle bar) to turn the speed controller on/off just like "from the factory" 

...& (I have not tried it yet) but, I think, the "stock" key switch should act as a "master switch" & turn everything off (speed controller included)
...kinda like a "double safety", in case I forget 


More to come


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

I got El Moto out today 

But, she was TOTALLY DEAD 

NOT just dead, "really" TOTALLY DEAD 

Nothing lit up, buzzed, clicked or anything
...so, I grabbed the MM

The 48V battery pack showed 6.2V 

Then, I checked them individually
...battery #1 (@ the positive output connection) showed 1.5V
...#2 showed 3.3V
...#3 showed 5.4V
...#4 (@ the negative out put connection) showed -3.9V
(seriously, it showed a minus) 
(negative voltage, a new one on me)

So, yup 
...I think I killed 'em 

I had the main cut-off, turned off while it was in storage for the winter

It seems that I didn't wire the DC to DC inverter to the cut-off switch
...I wired it straight to the battery pack
...it must have been drawin' a small amount of power all winter long

So, I'm guessin' (Naw, I'm pretty sure) 
...that was a fatal (for the battery pack anyways) mistake

Well, can't get shook about it
...grandma always said "things happen for a reason"

* Note to self:
Don't do that again 

Learning as I go


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## MattsAwesomeStuff (Aug 10, 2017)

Put the cells back on a charger and wait 3 days.

When I've killed lead acid's, sometimes they take nearly no charge for the first 10 hours, and then slowly start to recover. You can oops it 2 or 3 times before they really start to suffer. Since your batteries were new, good odds they can be rescued.

They'll also be sulfated from sitting so long, so some heat from being kept on the charger is good for them. If you have a manual mode on the charger, put 'em on manual.

Check on them periodically (ever couple hours) and if they get more than warm (like, warmer than you can keep your hand on them) then give them a break for a couple hours.

Next time get a small solar panel and hook it up so that there's always the slightest bit of top-up to counter the draining.

And, check on the bike occasionally


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## Functional Artist (Aug 8, 2016)

MattsAwesomeStuff said:


> Put the cells back on a charger and wait 3 days.
> 
> When I've killed lead acid's, sometimes they take nearly no charge for the first 10 hours, and then slowly start to recover. You can oops it 2 or 3 times before they really start to suffer. Since your batteries were new, good odds they can be rescued.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the suggestion 

Got (1) battery to come back 
...after charging (as you described) it has been @ 13.2V (consistently) for several days now
...not sure about capacity

The other (3) wouldn't do nothing 

* These (4) batteries were not new, I've been using them for a few years now 

First, on a kart called Double Trouble (2016) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRIKLdvGlTA

...then, on a kart called El Dingo (2016) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8C2P2lEos5o

...then, on a kart called El Turbo (2017) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-704ZyJkaU

...& then, on El Moto (2017) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBU6qdzbzdc

...so, I've got quite a few cycles out of them


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