# First conversion, some questions first



## EV-Tuga (May 16, 2008)

Hello, just like most of you guys, im tired of paying for fuel (due to high prices)

I've been planning this conversion for a while, and this is what i am planning to do:

[Materials:
-electroauto.com

Motor Solectria AC24
Control System Solectria DMOC445
Solectria Wiring Interface Kit
DC Converter (to be used with auxiliary battery)
Charger Zivan NG3
Noalox Anti-Corrosion Compound
Cable Crimper
Cable Shears
Switching Relay
Charger Interlock Relay
Terminal Blocks Small and Large (Black)
Fuse Block
Fusible Link with Holder and Cover(?)
Vacuum Power Brake System


-cloudelectric.com

45 x Battery Module 100 Amp/hr 3.2 Volt "Lightning Bolt"

-smartsparkenergy.com

Custom-Made BattEQ for 45 LiFePO4

-Others

Circuit Breaker AC (alternate current)
2 x fuses AC (alternate current)
Welding Cable (copper)
Hard resin paint (water proof, chemical proof and flame resistant)

-Missing

Something to make the heater work
Something to make the air conditioning work (deleted ideia)

-Yet to Confirm

paktrakr.com [NO WAY]
PakTrakr 800 lithium (LiFePO4)
6 x PakTrakr 8-battery Remote
PakTrakr ES1R Automatic logging serial interface
PakTrakr Current Sensor
Copper bus bar for current sensor

OR

cloudelectric.com [YA WAY]
Meter Batman EV 24-200 Volt Systems
Shunt 50 mv, 500 amp Lightweight]

The donor car is planned to be an old mitsubishi colt, however, this might change...

NOTE: this conversion is planning for the future (hopefully ASAP), but i need references

This are the questions:
1- does the Paktrakr allow 45 batteries to be connected? [answered]
2- how many miles will i expect from this kind of batteries? (144 volt system) [no need to answer, since its variable]
3- will i be able to use the air conditioning? [answered]
4- EDIT: can use multiple fans (computer ones) to cool the batteries on the battery box, using the accessory battery, when the car is running? (and the use the house energy source when its recharging the batteries)
5- NEW: how do you connect the vaccum power brake? [a bit confused yet, but i think i understand it now]
6- NEW: how do i connect the heater? (original from car)

this is all for now, i really appreciate 

One other thing, please correct any of the materials, for example, if there is anything missing or anything thats unnecessary


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## ga2500ev (Apr 20, 2008)

EV-Tuga said:


> Hello, just like most of you guys, im tired of paying for fuel (due to high prices)
> 
> I've been planning this conversion for a while, and this is what i am planning to do:
> 
> ...


Dare I even ask what the cost of this will be? The batteries alone (using LionEV prices) will be in the $18,000 ballpark.

I have a really tough time wrapping my head around investing what looks like close to $30K in components that may save you a dime a mile over the cost of gas. At that rate it'll be 300k miles before you get back a return on your investment.

Care to comment?



> This are the questions:
> 1- does the Paktrakr allow 45 batteries to be connected?


No clue.



> 2- how many miles will i expect from this kind of batteries? (144 volt system)


The most famous answer of all time: it depends.

The curb weight of the colt is 2300 lbs. The batteries (again LionEV weight of 14.7 lbs/pack is 660 lbs. That'll get you in under 3000 lbs. Considering that the curb weight of something lighter with lead acid will get you 200 Wh/mile, let say that you get 250 Wh/mile with your setup. Lithuims can be run flat. So you have a 28.8 kW pack consuming 250 Wh/mile. That puts you in the 115 mile ballpark depending on driving conditions.



> 3- will i be able to use the air conditioning?


Everything has a cost. To run the given AC you'd have to attach a motor to the compressor. That will consume miles off your pack.

2004 and later model Priuses have a electric compressor. So in theory you could replace the original compress with the electric one and save the weight and space. However it's still going to consume power to run. The paper has the specs:

http://www.epa.gov/cppd/Presentations/Matsunaga electric inverter.pdf



> 4- can use multiple fans (computer ones) to cool the batteries using the accessory battery and when its charging?


It's charging. So why not use house power to run the fans?



> this is all for now, i really appreciate
> 
> One other thing, please correct any of the materials, for example, if there is anything missing or anything thats unnecessary



Good luck in your conversion.

ga2500ev


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## EV-Tuga (May 16, 2008)

hmm UPS sorry that was a mistake there, i ment to say 45 x LifePO4 100Amps, NOT 200 Amps

and as far as i can see, i have to agree that theres no easy solution for the air condicioning, might as well search for another "alternative" 

thats is all keep commenting

BTW how do you connect the vaccum power brake???


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## joseph3354 (Apr 2, 2008)

since you are already in europe you might want to check with FEVT about the batteries.they are the same thing that cloudev and lionev are selling.you would at the very least save the shipping charges.you can contact them here: http://www.fevt.com/finnish-electric-vehicle-technologies-ltd 

you would need the vacuum pump connected to a reservoir and then connect the booster to the reservoir.


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## EV-Tuga (May 16, 2008)

checking... but there are li-ion, not LiFePO4 batteries (i think)

besides, i prefer to buy in america because the "euro discount" over the dollar

another note, just recived an e-mail regarding the paktrakr:

"Due to testing limitations we currently only support five Remotes per system 
(40 cells), but the PakTrakr system is internally designed to support six. 
So we could sell you a six-Remote system (48 cells total) but as we haven't 
thoroughly tested that configuration it would be considered a beta system with limited support. But we do offer a full money back guarantee."

i dont trust much in "beta", so i think i will prefer using the "Batman EV" way..


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## joseph3354 (Apr 2, 2008)

FEVT was negotiating a license with thundersky to produce lifepo batteries in finland.i dont know how far along they are in that process.but they do still order lifepo from thundersky.the same batteries you are looking at with cloud and lionev.i dont know if youre going to get a better buy with the exchange rate because of shipping costs going up these days,

or order direct from thundersky and save more,the hassle of getting warranties on the batteries is probably just as tough buying in the u.s. as it would be buying direct from china.


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## EV-Tuga (May 16, 2008)

not bad ideas, but somewhat, i think they hate the average consumer, since they don't post the prices of their products...i wonder why....

btw im now making a wiring diagram, going to post really soon, for the experts to check out any bugs or errors


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

RE the heater. I'm considering a 6 gallon electric water heater. This will add about 100 lbs to the car but I can heat the water at home. After getting 7 miles to work at the coldest temps of maybe 30F I could plug it in again. 
In the mean time if it gets cold before I get there I could run DC through it. Only thing is I'd need to find DC rated controls as AC equipment is not capable of running DC in most cases. DC is much more likely to arc upon disconnection of power when switching off due it it's constant voltage nature versus alternating AC power. 

In warm weather I could remove the heater and plug the heater core hoses until next cool season.


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## hybrad (May 24, 2008)

wouldn't an electric element heater be a little easier?


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## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

Would a heater be easier? I don't know. Depends on how hard the heater core is to get at I suppose. The thing to figure out is, and I'm not an engineer, it will take approximately 3500-4000 btu to heat 6 gallons 70 degrees, not including losses to insulation. Convert that to kw. Then you got to figure, if you're trying to heat the pickup cab, my situation, from 28-30F to maybe 70F, it's going to take maybe 5kw? to do it efficiently.

I'm just thinking, heat the car with your home power, maybe on a timer along with the fan to come on prior to your getting in the car, then the car is warm and off you go without using power to heat. You'll only be hauling another 100 lbs which only costs you upon acceleration.

I'm not versed in those type calculations so maybe someone else could chime in.


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## evallan (May 28, 2008)

As for the heater: www.evparts.com has a 1500W heater module that can replace the hot water core of the heater. When the heater is on it is held at 180deg F (I think) and the amount of power used depends on how fast the fan goes. 

I am thinking of modifying an electric heater to do something similar but I first need to determine what voltage I am going to operate at.


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