# miles ZX40



## rmay635703 (Oct 23, 2008)

My father owns an 05 zx40 (car #29 off the ship), there are 3 varieties
1. 48v 5hp series motor
2. 72v 10hp series motor
3. 72v AC motor

Depending on your car your method(s) will vary.

That said in Japan and Europe the car can go 90 or 100mph, in our case the 48v motor has an absolute max RPM of 6300rpms which translates to 46mph on the speedo, the 72v car typically has a lower absolute max RPM but the same gearing.

So how do you make the car go faster?

There are 3 alternatives.

1) I have had the 48v car up to 46mph, she screams down the road at that speed. My only modification was field reduction which is just a big long set of 6 guage wires shorting out the field. (not the best solution but it works on flat ground without wind)

2) Up your voltage, this will give you more power but the 6 3/4" 48v motor is very easy to zorch or blow apart if you start approaching 46mph. Moving from 48v to 72 volt and changing your controller and adding a 72v->48v adapter to handle the other non-replacable stuff is a very satisfying improvement though, just don't try to go past 72v or run too many amps.

3) Get a daihatsu charade 5sp transmission. Its a drop in replacement and is the best way of getting more speed and a 1st gear.

If you do a combination of #2 & #3 you should be moving along around 55mph, only issue is that you must not exceed the power limit of your motor, the original 48v motor will not like motoring along at 55mph for very long and is best kept with the original gearing up to 35mph, it can handle about 45mph but again the further past 35mph you go the more likely it will overheat, active cooling is a must if you really want to fly with that little high revving bugger. You also must get an ampmeter and pay close attention to how many amps you are pushing through, the motor is only good for about 100amps continuous at most.

Now if you have an AC car you need to beg curtis to reprogram it or bother folks here who know more than me. Trouble is you still probably can't go past 35mph as it isn't a huge motor, no telling though, if it might be possible to custom program it to exceed the limits a tad. It seems like it should be able to rev higher but apparently that isn't the limiting factor.

Good Luck
Ryan


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## SteveWlf (Oct 25, 2012)

*Re: miles ZX40 (new owner)*

I just got a 2007 Miles (XZ40 I think) at a public auction. Will pick it up tomorrow. 
It is non running, supposedly one or more of the batteries is/are bad. Electronics/12volt system comes up with the dash display giving mileage as 5252 and a batt error code and single bar on battery level charge. 
I thought originally that it was a 48v system (4 ea, 12v in series=48V) but I found 6 batteries without any external markings and sealed covers so I was suspecting them to be 6 ea 8volts in series=48v or they could be 6 ea 12v in series for 72v (I hope). The controller is a Curtis but I didn't notice the model number. 

I'll get more info tomorrow when I get it home and put a volt meter on each battery. 

If it's 12volt batteries, it will make life easier for me to deal with charging them individually with my shop charger.

Steve


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## SteveWlf (Oct 25, 2012)

Thanks Scott.

You were posting here while I was open a new post (for the reasons stated there-in).

Your points are well taken, as I state, I have experience with the Lithium Ion batteries and have been considering taking the 72 cells out of my Prius and building a pack for the Miles. 

I look forward to discussing this in more detail in the near future.

I will try to get a better look at the Model ID on the Curtis controller. 

Steve


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## SteveWlf (Oct 25, 2012)

*Re: miles ZX40 (new owner)*



scott glen said:


> Volt Li-ion 72vdc modules for extended range and longer life. Voltage can also be increased to 96vdc for much improved performance. I have converted many of the Miles increasing voltage to 96vdc, but the controller must be reprogrammed which is what I do.


I am interested in more info on these Volt Li-ion modules but want to evaluate/compare them with my on-hand 72 3.2volt Calib cells. (I actually have a couple additional spares). My standard pack is 230 volts nominal and it think it is about 10kwh with individual cell board management controls. So even if I configure them to 72 volts or higher, I will have the same control over charge/discharge limits as with my current system. 

My main limit in my Prius is the Nickel metal Hyd battery management system which kicks out of pure EV mod at 53 mph and requires system reset even to get into hybrid mod. 

I don't expect or even dream of getting more than 45 mph and hope to get more range than the 40-50 with the AGM pack. Something around 60 mile range would be perfect. Mostly, I drive only 10 miles to the nearest town and have a charging station in one of these towns.

I can get to almost any where I want to go with only a short 3 mile sprint on a highway that has a 50 mph speed limit. Then it is back to city stop and go driving.

I'm open for comments on what you are doing and how I might adapt some if not all of what you offer in experience and knowledge.

Thank, Steve


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## rmay635703 (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: miles ZX40 (new owner)*



scott glen said:


> Your system should include a HPEVS AC-31 and Curtis1238-6501 72vdc.
> 
> but the controller must be reprogrammed which is what I do.


Well I be damned, I have never seen a 2007 miles with anything other than a Series DC motor, good show!

Scott, were you the guy that got the Miles bankrupcy liquidation assets of AC-31s, they were sold for a few hundred each, would love to "upgrade" my miles with the OEM motor and controller on the cheap.

Still trying to figure out who bought the little buggers. They were sold in a few lots for little of anything, sadly I didn't know about the auction until, well, it was long over.

Cheers
Ryan


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## lespaul109 (Dec 11, 2010)

I'm looking at buying one of the Miles OR-70's. Has anyone been able to register one of these or ZX40's for highway use?

Thanks


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## wb9k (Apr 9, 2015)

lespaul109 said:


> I'm looking at buying one of the Miles OR-70's. Has anyone been able to register one of these or ZX40's for highway use?
> 
> Thanks


Hi,

I have a ZX40ST that I'm in the middle of "restoring" ( http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=67989 ). The truck had a standard MI title with it when I got it. The story I got was that since the original owner of the truck was a University, the Secretary of State office got lazy and just gave them a regular title, thinking the thing would never leave campus anyway. When the 2nd owner transferred the title to his name, he got some flak from the SOS (partly fueled by his $1 price tag), but they finally issued him a normal title as well. I had no trouble at all transferring the title to my name with a $150 price on it. 

MI makes no distinction of power source in a vehicle. My full electric motorcycle conversion is registered under the original Honda VIN. They don't ask about converted vehicles, and I don't tell. My insurance companies have been far more diligent than the state in this regard. I have no idea what the scenario in your state might be like, I imagine there is a good deal of state-to-state variability with this process (or lack thereof). Further, as EV's continue to proliferate, I expect we are on the cusp of an extended period of regulatory flux as governments figure out how to best deal with the altered fuel tax structures that will inevitably become necessary. Don't expect the fog to lift any time soon.

I imagine as a worst-case scenario, you could show your local regulators the mods that have been done to the vehicle to make it capable of highway speed and ask to register the truck as a street-legal "experimental vehicle". This is what guys who build cars from scratch have to do. Because it's not a production vehicle, you are likely exempt from requirements for air bags, etc., but you can still legally drive the car anywhere. I think the truck you are looking at is capable of 65 mph, so it is clearly no longer an LSV and should not be registered as such. This process could be a pain, but it ought to be surmountable. See what your state regulators have to say on the subject...and let us know what you find out. 

Good luck!


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## rmay635703 (Oct 23, 2008)

lespaul109 said:


> I'm looking at buying one of the Miles OR-70's. Has anyone been able to register one of these or ZX40's for highway use?
> 
> Thanks


OR-70s can be illegally registered by a dealership as a moped in a state like Michigan or an ATV in Missouri. All other states they don't even let them on the road.

ZX40's can be registered as LSV or NEV in all 50 states, I drive my 05 on the backroad 2 lane highways and have for years, nobody really cares.
I do have it marked with a slow moving vehicle sign and due to a loophole in state law I can argue some legal points if I get pulled over.

So I think in your case, get a street legal version, get whatever plates your state allows and drive it how you wish.

Just don't be a dick and don't get anyone to really notice you and you are fine.

That said if you take it down the 4 lane highway be prepared to pay a fine, which in some cases isn't all the much. (check first pay later)

Good Luck
Ryan


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## SteveWlf (Oct 25, 2012)

Has anyone here, done a battery convertion, from the OEM AGM batteries to the lithium modules from the GM Chevy Volt battery system. 
The cell/modules are available on ebay or directly from a distributor who has converted 29 Miles to the Volt batteries. 

The intial convertions of a 96v 45-50ah module would be about the same cost as replacing the OEM AGMs and that would include the BMS system. 

Because of small size of these module, it would be possible to double that and still have room to spare, either in the back of under the hood. This would double the range but also the cost. So I would be adding about an additional $1500 to the replacement battery cost to my Miles ZX40S.

I would appreciate any thoughts or comments on this. 

Steve


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## rmay635703 (Oct 23, 2008)

Who is this distributer who has converted 29 miles to volt batteries?

Just curious.

Cheers
Ryan


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## PatG (Jun 12, 2009)

I bought a 2009 ZX40s (A/C model) last week from UCSB. It has about 2800 miles on it and everything works. The batteries will take me about 25 miles, while not great, is sufficient. It was programmed to do 35 mph.

I installed a radio a few days ago, using a stereo adapter for an early Toyota (same plug and pin-out). I then noticed that when I'm trying to maintain a constant speed (15-30 mph), it kind of surges. I disconnected the radio and it still does it, BTW.

Any thoughts? 

Also, any help on finding the rubber grommet/bushing from the vacuum pump to the hose going to the master cylinder would be nice.


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## Graveaxis (Apr 1, 2015)

I've converted my 72v over to cells from a 500e


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## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2016)

I am a muscle car guy....I get them, trying to understand EVs. I recently purchased a 2009 Miles ZX40ST with one part missing, not sure what it is and thought I would reach out to someone that may know. It is a black module missing from the plug in the picture (saw the module in other pictures online however could not read the part number). If you can help you would be my hero.

Thanks

Gary Cooper

217.202.8217


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## PatG (Jun 12, 2009)

I don't know what it is, my sedan is different. I do have the wiring diagrams; I'll post those.


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## rmay635703 (Oct 23, 2008)

As the old saying goes, if one thing is missing your guaranteed to missing a lot more.

Hillside rancher on the milesevowners yahoo group sells service manuals.
I recommend buying one.

The miles truck is made by a totally different company than the car, different parts everywhere

On an off topic who got all of miles inventory?

They had hundreds of ac35 and Curtis 1238 controller s when they went bankrupt, sold for $50 each, not sure who got them.


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## AlanCH (Dec 4, 2016)

rmay635703 said:


> Hillside rancher on the milesevowners yahoo group sells service manuals.
> I recommend buying one.


Would love to buy a user manual but cannot find the milesevowners Yahoo group. Any leads?
thanks,
Alan


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## PatG (Jun 12, 2009)

Alan, I have a service manual for the ZX40ST. Also have an owner's manual for the 72v DC ZX40 that I'd have to scan. Would either of those help?


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## AlanCH (Dec 4, 2016)

PatG said:


> Alan, I have a service manual for the ZX40ST. Also have an owner's manual for the 72v DC ZX40 that I'd have to scan. Would either of those help?


Thanks Pat. I have the OR70 and I have the owners manual. What I need is a service manual. The ZX40ST is the truck, isn't it? Not the same animal. Any service manual for the 72V CAR would be helpful.

*
*


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## PatG (Jun 12, 2009)

I don't have the service manual for the ZX40S, but the main components and troubleshooting would be the same for the truck. The components on (controller, charger, etc.) are the same on the ST as they are on my ZX40S (AD). I have the troubleshooting manual for the ST as well.


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## AlanCH (Dec 4, 2016)

PatG said:


> I don't have the service manual for the ZX40S, but the main components and troubleshooting would be the same for the truck. The components on (controller, charger, etc.) are the same on the ST as they are on my ZX40S (AD). I have the troubleshooting manual for the ST as well.


I have wiring diagrams and info on the charger. I need info on the brakes. That wouldn't be the same as the truck since it is an entirely different vehicle. My instrument panel (dashboard) does not work. Would like info on that as well, but same problem, I think (i.e. not the same as the truck). Thanks anyway.


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## Graveaxis (Apr 1, 2015)

I have a or70 that's stuck in reverse. Do you know if anyone has the service manual or testing procedure.


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## rmay635703 (Oct 23, 2008)

Your fr contactor is either blown or wired wrong, these cars have no reverse.

If your cheap like me change the wiring around on the series wound motor so current goes through the field opposite and now you won't have reverse instead ( yes I have pushed my ev to backup because I was too cheap to fix the contactor)


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## Graveaxis (Apr 1, 2015)

Yeah, it's strange when I put it in forward it does nothing. If it's in reverse it'll move. I would think if the contactor stuck it'd be in reverse all the time.


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## rmay635703 (Oct 23, 2008)

No if one side of the fr is gone it won't go forward.

Normally though the fr is wired so if it goes your stuck forward .


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## allenrw1955 (Mar 23, 2017)

Anyone willing to share a ZX40S schematic or service manual? Even ZX40 would probably work. It has the 72 volt batteries and a DC motor.
Bob


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## dfgsd (Mar 6, 2017)

I just purchased a 2009 Miles ZX40ST small EV truck from the auction and it only has 1200 miles on it. The truck seems complete, everything seems bolted down correctly and no evidence of lousy repair work. The truck seems to have been sitting for an indefinite period before being sold.

From what I read online, it's using a 10hp 3-phase AC induction brushless motor. The Curtis controller output leads are marked U, V, W.

The six Power-Sonic 150Ah 12V batteries were all low at 1.5-2V, so we took them out and charged individually with regular car 6 amp chargers for 3 full days. The battery pack seems to come back to life and now shows 78 Volts fully charged.

We also put in a new 12V battery. All the 12V stuff (fan, lights) works normally. I am however unable to get the truck to move under its own power. We don't have the key so currently using a screwdriver at the switch directly. 
The main contactor relay clicks as supposed when the ignition switch is turned on. 
The Curtis controller gets 78V across B+ and B-, and flashes orange light, indicating normal operation. The "D" or "R" indicator lights up on the cluster when Fwd/Rev switch is pressed. The voltage at the TPS pin on the Curtis varies normally from 0.2V to 4V when pressing on the throttle potentiometer. But nothing happens when we press on the gas, the truck won't move. The voltage between U, V, W terminals and B- shows the same ~36V on each, and doesn't change with the pedal movement.

I feel like the next step is I need to take the motor out and test it on the bench, but I don't know how to do this.

Thanks,
Art in San Diego


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## ocstagetech (Sep 8, 2020)

Hello Pat,
I know you sent this message 4 years ago but do you still have the manuals? I need both the service and owners manuals.
Thanks,
Byron



PatG said:


> Alan, I have a service manual for the ZX40ST. Also have an owner's manual for the 72v DC ZX40 that I'd have to scan. Would either of those help?


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## ocstagetech (Sep 8, 2020)

Hi Art,
Do you still have your Miles truck? I'm in OC and just got one. Mine just needs batteries and a drivers door handle. 
Hope to hear from you,
Byron



dfgsd said:


> I just purchased a 2009 Miles ZX40ST small EV truck from the auction and it only has 1200 miles on it. The truck seems complete, everything seems bolted down correctly and no evidence of lousy repair work. The truck seems to have been sitting for an indefinite period before being sold.
> 
> From what I read online, it's using a 10hp 3-phase AC induction brushless motor. The Curtis controller output leads are marked U, V, W.
> 
> ...


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## Gadget_Guru (5 mo ago)

I just bought a Miles ZX40 (48V) first-gen in a local auction here in Northern Nevada.
A neighbor towed it home for me.

I have the 2018-vintage AGM batteries out, and am attempting to charge them one at a time. They were each at 1 to 5 Volts, so I'm not likely to be able to save them.

The car had two of these Powerpulse 24V battery desulphating gizmos installed, one on each pair of batteries.
I assume they were not OEM? I don't know for sure if they really do what they claim, but the reviews on Amazon are glowing. One reviewer noted that ironically, if the battery they're attached to is NOT charged regularly, the small load the device puts on the battery will eventually deplete the battery, and cause the sulfation it's designed to repair. The car has been sitting at least a few months (since the local guy I bought it from bought it in California), and perhaps much longer than that.

PP-24-L PowerPulse 24-Volt Battery Maintenance System











I have two new 6-cell Lipo RC packs here in my fridge. With both of those in series, I may be able to get the Miles moving under it's own power. Only 5 Amp-Hours, compared to the 150 amp hours of the AGM pack in the Miles, but I may be able to get it going for a mile or three before hitting low-voltage cutoff, if I take it REAL easy on the throttle?
The "50C" rating on the LiPos implies that they can handle a discharge current of 260 Amps, at least very briefly. The motor in the Miles has an output power rating of 4,000 Watts, so a gentle application of throttle should keep current draw at less than 100 AMPs, perhaps?


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## remy_martian (Feb 4, 2019)

You sure are taking every possible angle to make that cute little relic gokart go up in flames.

Put a proper battery in it, or sell it, before you damage stuff (I really hope it wasn't towed with the drive wheels down).


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## Gadget_Guru (5 mo ago)

remy_martian said:


> You sure are taking every possible angle to make that cute little relic gokart go up in flames.
> Put a proper battery in it, or sell it, before you damage stuff


I'm aware of the needed precautions, and will be "playing safe".



remy_martian said:


> (I really hope it wasn't towed with the drive wheels down).












Darron


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## Gadget_Guru (5 mo ago)

Before I started charging the batteries, I had them on their sides because I read that with AGM batts that have been disused for some time, the electrolyte can sort of "sag" down to the bottom of the fiberglass mats that holds the fully absorbed liquid electrolyte.

Keeping them on their sides, alternately, for a couple hours each may help to get the electrolyte to flow back into the upper reaches of the fiberglass mats. This kind of sounds like BS to me, but I thought I'd give it a shot before trying to charge them.

Before charging, I wrote the OCV of each batt. on it with a sharpie. I'm charging at C/10, so fully charging all 4 will take a LONG time with just one charger.

The charger is really a 12V 40A power supply, not a true battery charger.
I have it set at 14.5V and 15A:










The batteries are exhibiting the "recovery profile" behavior that I've come to expect from deeply discharged lead-acid-batteries that have been sitting discharged for some time:

1) When starting off, the voltage goes instantly to 14.5, and the current is VERY low.

2) Current gradually climbs (over hours) to 15A and stays there, and then the voltage starts dropping.

3) Voltage gradually stops dropping, then climbs again.

4) When the voltage hits 14.5 the second time, current starts dropping from 15A.

5) I'll stop charging when current drops to an amp or two.

I'll then put my Harbor Freight Battery load tester on each battery, and set load to around 200 Amps, and see how far the voltage drops under load:








I have the onboard charger out of the car, and cleaned it, and fixed a dent in the side panel.
It looks good inside, and I'll connect it to 110VAC and see what its OCV charging voltages are on the 48V and 12V rails:









Darron


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## Kauaikit (6 mo ago)

Graveaxis said:


> I've converted my 72v over to cells from a 500e


So......8 yrs later, how did the "Fiat" battery swap work out, or it's performance?!?


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