# Eletric Dune Buggy



## Mastiff (Jan 11, 2008)

On a more realistic note, I think as my first EV a small dune buggy that could possibly do 55-60mph tops would be great.

I'm looking at it costing around $1500-$2000 total.

I think I will build a custom frame myself out of steel or aluminum (if I can find cheap aluminum ).

I would like to take a used ATV with a dead engine and rip out the suspension, wheels and tires and use those on the frame.

I possibly would use doubled ATV tires for the back drive wheels for higher grip and stability.


Again I would like to have a top speed of about 55mph, so possibly I could use some kind of two or three speed transmission, it's possible I could use the ATV's tranny but it might weigh a lot.

I would like to power this by a cheap motor or two, so I was thinking 48 volt golf-cart motors, maybe for more power I could use two.

I don't know much about golf cart motors so I'm not sure if one would have the RPM's or torque to push the buggy 55mph.
Maybe I could use a forklift motor, I'd imagine those have more torque.

I plan on using lead-acid batteries to power it, I'll build the battery box area right into the frame of the buggy to center the weight and keep it's center of gravity low to the ground. (power slides will be attempted)

My main concerns are, what kind of motor/controller setup would give me the performance I want and stay close to budget?


----------



## Mastiff (Jan 11, 2008)

I found this motor, it looks like the power I want:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ADC-K99-4007-dc...ryZ67008QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

It's a nice price on it used.

Then I could use 8 Optima Red Top 6 Volt 50Ah Batteries:
http://www.beepscom.com/product_p/ba-sc850-fslash-6.htm


And a controller such as this one:
http://www.beepscom.com/product_p/co-kd84-400.htm

My question is, does


> 24V-84V controller requires separate 12V supply.


Mean that the controller needs a 12v input voltage from the battery pack?


Also, with those components I just listed I already hit my $2000 mark, but I'm pretty sure I'd get some great performance, plus probably a ~50 mile range.

Who knows, I could probably put directional blinker lights on it and get it registered for highway use, then I could use it as an errand runner


----------



## Mr. Sharkey (Jul 26, 2007)

My only comment on this would be that you DO NOT WANT Optima Red Top batteries. Red Tops are engine starting batteries and will not hold up to the deep cycle use as will be experienced in an EV. If you choose to use Optimas, get the Yellow Tops, they are designed for deep discharge and cyclic use. From what I've been hearing, Optima batteries have an unacceptably high DOA failure rate, and they'e fallen out of favor with EV'ers as a result.


----------



## Mastiff (Jan 11, 2008)

Oh yeah, your right Red tops are the starter variations, thanks for that.

What would be a good set of deep cycle SLA batteries in your opinion then if I decided not to use Optima?

I'd like to have good quality batteries that wouldn't fail after some abuse.


----------



## BenNelson (Jul 27, 2007)

That motor looks like a pretty good one. Just keep in mind that more volts = more speed. 

My motorcycle is set up at 36 volts and goes 38 mph with no transmission. It would go almost 45 with one more 12 volt battery in there.

My motor is rated as a 8 HP and it has plenty of power for zipping about.

I think that my motor controller does need a 12 volt source to enable it. I just tapped off one of the batteries, no big deal. Works fine that way.

Take a look at my motorcycle, it might give you some ideas.

-Ben


----------



## Mastiff (Jan 11, 2008)

Interesting, I like your bike.

So if I was to find a motor like that that could run 72 volts or so then I'd probably have the performance I want.

EDIT:
http://www.beepscom.com/product_p/mo-k91-4003.htm
that motor is #K91-4003 the ebay auction was for a #K99-4007 so that motor should handle up to 96V 


I have a 3D concept model of my buggy, everything in the model is to scale.(excuse my poor modeling skills near the joints)

It's 8 feet long, 5 ft-6in wide at the base, 5 ft wide at the top, 4ft tall from base to top and uses 2" pipe (not sure if I would use 2" or 1.5" pipe)

The block man inside is to scale of myself, 6ft tall.

The green boxes represent the batteries, their size is based on Optima Yellow Top 12 volts rounded up slightly so I could easily fit 10 and keep a low center of gravity.

I haven't modeled the front and back suspension and the motor and gears or anything.


----------



## Xanerrix (Sep 25, 2007)

What is meant by DOA failure for the Optima batteries?
Sorry if that is a newb question...

Thank you
Andre


----------



## John (Sep 11, 2007)

DOA usually stands for dead on arrival. I think it means some of the batteries fail before they are even used once.


----------



## Alex Everett (Dec 26, 2007)

Question..
Have you thought about looking in local used car magazine or E-Bay for dune/Rail frames. Based on V.W. drivetrain and suspension components. Someone here has a V.W. electric vehicle that could help with all the info on his conversion.
I recently saw a Rail frame (Nothing else on it) for $250 and was thinking the same as you.

These are allready fabricated and a lot easier to get tags for it as kit cars VS/ home made vehicles....
unless I mistakeny did not realize yours will be for offroad use only.


----------



## Mastiff (Jan 11, 2008)

Actually I think I would use a prefabricated frame, just because I can be more certain about it's structural integrity.

Though looking back, this would be something really cool to have, but I think it would be too impractical for the road, plus the costs are getting up there, if I where to spend that much I should just convert a car 

I think I could just take my go-kart and use a golf cart motor to convert it into electric at least that way I'll have some EV experience.

I could sell the 5hp engine(practically brand new) to recover some costs.

I could use a simple used 48volt golf cart motor:
http://cgi.ebay.com/48-volt-CLUB-CA...ryZ64662QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

But here's the question, is it worth buying a new controller or are they fairly robust? Seems all the Ebay controllers are re-manufactured...
http://cgi.ebay.com/CURTIS-CLUBCAR1...ryZ64662QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

$371 if I bought those out now, that's more reasonable.

Now my only problem, I live in the middle of no-where, it's 40 miles to the nearest Wal-Mart(80mile round trip).

Are there any online retailer's that you guys suggest ordering batteries from?

Otherwise I'll have to see if my Wal-Mart has some deep cycle batteries for me


----------



## Alex Everett (Dec 26, 2007)

I saw a U-Tube video ( lost the url ) about someone who did a go-cart electric using a golf cart motor. Looked cool but limited battery placement on that small of a machine. He had to fab up an end plate for motor and bearing assy to support sprocket end of gear drive but man, was it FAAAAAAAAAAAAST.



so, You are building an off road buggy, Please be safe with installing a roll cage and safety restraint belt/harness. We want you to be around to build something bigger later on.


----------



## Mastiff (Jan 11, 2008)

Don't worry my 6 point high tension all rubber bungie cord seat belt system works real well, 1 bungie going over each shoulder and one around the waist.


----------



## Alex Everett (Dec 26, 2007)

Mastiff said:


> Don't worry my 6 point high tension all rubber bungie cord seat belt system works real well...


Being from Georgia/Carolina I can say with all authority.... "Sounds like ******* engineering to me"

I sincerely hope you have miles and miles of fun out of that little toy...


----------



## Coryphaeus (Feb 8, 2010)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHR3a7mCiEk This? I think that this is an awesome buggy, and I would love to build something like that.


----------

