# LandRover lightweight EV conversion



## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

HPEVS AC51 and the last CanEV LandRover series adaptor in existence










and with the the Flywheel adaptor . I have a funny feeling that Flywheel is too far back 










I have some inspiration from http://adventure-ev.com/?cat=6  
where I see JeffG found the CanEV flywheel adaptor was also too far back, he made up an adaptor to space the motor forward.


UPDATE, Randy at CEV has contacted me and is producing more LandRover adaptors , with the correct spacing so following shaft mods will not be necessary)


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Internal Combustion Engine out , this has only done 65,000 miles in 44 years, only just run in . 










home made rolling gantry


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Here is the problem, 

Crankshaft flange on ICE , 34mm from rear mounting face of engine










Rear of CanEV flywheel adaptor from mounting face of adaptor = 49mm 










CanEVflywheel adaptor compared to ICE crank flange.









As I see it here are my options 
1/ I need to make a 15mm spacer to sandwich between motor and adaptor plate
2/ Remove a combination of 15mm from motor shaft and Flywheel adaptor .
3/ modify clutch release - a combination of shortening pivot point to move throw out fork reward a few mm and/or make a new thrust bearing holder / get a thinner bearing.

4/ a combination of 2 &3 above .


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Here goes nothing !

Surgical removal of 6mm from shaft end .
.....Some precision engineering right here folks!! now I only need to find 11mm more .


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

removing 7.5mm of material from rear of flywheel adaptor , now just need to find 3.5 mm 




















I also bored through the small center hole so that the shaft could come all the way through, giving another 2mm and chamfered the inside edge so as to not interfere with the step radius on the motor shaft.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Result is a perfectly engineered (well almost) solution, without needing to sandwich a spacer plate.

I am now out only 1.5mm which can easily be taken up with clutch rod adjustment.





















Next job to tackle will be design and fabricate a front motor mount.


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## attiliopiccolo10 (Sep 22, 2017)

Beautiful for the moment!
God Luke 


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk


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## prensel (Feb 21, 2010)

goingbush said:


> and the last CanEV LandRover series adaptor in existence


Why, dont they make them anymore ?

What is your setup going to look like, voltage, batteries etc ?
Where are you going to put the battery boxes ?

I have plans on converting my series 2A 109 also but havent decided on what setup.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

prensel said:


> Why, don't they make them anymore ?
> 
> What is your setup going to look like, voltage, batteries etc ?
> Where are you going to put the battery boxes ?
> ...


I don't know why. Maybe the demand is too small, Upon my first enquiry Randy at CanEV said they don't make them anymore and a week later he replied to say he found the last one on the shelves. 

I see Evwest have one listed so you might be lucky. 
http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=133

I am going to use 45 x 180ah CALB Lifepo4 cells for 144v 

I currently have the two original 45 litre under seat fuel tanks, I am going to make a pair of battery boxes in the same pattern and mounts as the original tanks , each will hold 10 cells nicely & weigh only about 5 kg more than a full tank of petrol. 

The other 25 cells will go in a box above the motor .

None of the existing cargo area will be sacrificed for battery or electrics.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Another problem to be solved.

As it stands the motor wont fit the gearbox.

i bought this LandRover adaptor kit so that I would not have to re-invent the wheel, but I do have to modify that wheel significantly . I wonder how other people get on ? (I know it would not have been an issue if I took the JeffG approach and sandwiched another 15mm plate between adaptor and motor)

The front of the gearbox input shaft is 46mm forward of the mating plane of bell housing. 
the rear of the motor shaft is 44mm forward of the mating plane .

So I need to execute a delicate operation and chop the front 3mm from the input shaft .


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## Coolohm (Oct 15, 2017)

Cool project!

The chamfer on the end of that input shaft looks like about 3mm, good luck with a cutting disc.

I would just use a rough grit sanding pad on a disc grinder and sand it back.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

yep, If I remove the chamfer we will be set , 

I'll hit it with a flapper disc tomorrow. I'll just leave a small chamfer to help it ease into the spigot, if I make a dummy shaft (clutch alignment tool ) that chamfer wont really be necessary anyway.


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hi. Interested, as I have a '65 Series 2 Rover. I decided not to convert, as I regularly use it for weekend fishing trips. However I'm intimately familiar with all of the bits. 

Good work so far, too bad about Randy's adaptor plate.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

GoElectric said:


> Hi. Interested, as I have a '65 Series 2 Rover. I decided not to convert, as I regularly use it for weekend fishing trips. However I'm intimately familiar with all of the bits.
> 
> Good work so far, too bad about Randy's adaptor plate.


Thanks, I also use this LandRover on a regular basis, mostly only short trips, which is not good for the ICE it hardly even opens the thermostat , so I often drive 10-15 km extra just to get it to operating temperature which is a waste. I think it will be perfect when Electric and I just know I'll also be wanting to drive it on the longer routes just for the fun of it


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

I made a dummy motor so that I can design and fabricate the front engine mount rather than waiting till I fit the real motor .

The good thing about these LandRovers is they still have a crank handle start, so you can hand crank the ICE even with a flat battery . so there is a hole in the front bumper which lines up exactly with the centre of the crankshaft and thus the gearbox input shaft .

I just shoved a rod through the hole in the bumper , through the dummy motor and onto the input shaft , thus the dummy is sitting exactly in the correct alignment , which you will notice is off centre by virtue of the 4x4 design - (to allow sump clearance from the diff pumpkin)


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Forget CAD, I try the old fashion way, hang on this is also CAD ........ Cardboard Aided Design 

attempt 1 , front mount template cutout . (on real motor  )


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Hi Goingbush

Thank so much for posting about your conversion - and especially the pictures.

I have an 86" Series One, with an unreliable, non-original diesel which I am looking to convert to electric.

How did you come up with your chosen spec - in particular, why AC and which batteries will you use and how many?

Are you an electronics expert? I'm not and an AC installation scares me! I guess I'm looking for a recipe which works. The actual physical installation looks straightforward for any Landy owner worth his salt...

Many thanks,

Benjamin


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hey Benjamin - if you are looking for a recipe which works, you are in the right place. Without knowing what you want to have in the end, hard to say right now. BUT, I'll tell you there is a great deal on a motor/controller combination at EVTV, which was originally in a Ford Van (EV) which was discontinued. That is the Siemens AC motor and DMOC controller. You will pay about 1/4 of what it is worth. 

(sorry for jumping in)

(I'm Canadian - sorry for apologizing)

(Sorry for making a joke about Canadians apologizing for everything,but we do tend to do that: empathy)


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## prensel (Feb 21, 2010)

GoElectric said:


> (Sorry for making a joke about Canadians apologizing for everything,but we do tend to do that: empathy)


Canada ? Where is that ?
Oh yeah you speak French, well, sort of dont ya.. 
So you're in Europe then ?
No ? 
Oh, ok so you're just 'spare' US citizens tucked away up north.. 
Ok i get it, you're not Amish then ?

You know these elderly USA people where just a bunch of Dutch people we didnt like so we'd sent them of to somewhere else... I believe.. and now they have Trump, or whatever he's called.. the dude with the pale hair.. doesnt he have a Korean brother, looks the same but has black hair..?

Well I dunno, besides the Dutch all these foreigners look the same to me...

Can we talk about Land Rover and EV now ?


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

GoElectric said:


> Hey Benjamin - if you are looking for a recipe which works, you are in the right place. Without knowing what you want to have in the end, hard to say right now. BUT, I'll tell you there is a great deal on a motor/controller combination at EVTV, which was originally in a Ford Van (EV) which was discontinued. That is the Siemens AC motor and DMOC controller. You will pay about 1/4 of what it is worth.


Good shout - thanks very much. I wish we had more suppliers over here in the UK!...


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

GoElectric said:


> Hey Benjamin - if you are looking for a recipe which works, you are in the right place. Without knowing what you want to have in the end, hard to say right now. BUT, I'll tell you there is a great deal on a motor/controller combination at EVTV, which was originally in a Ford Van (EV) which was discontinued. That is the Siemens AC motor and DMOC controller. You will pay about 1/4 of what it is worth.
> 
> (sorry for jumping in)
> 
> ...


Ditto, I never knew about you guys , Bookmarked , Lots of cool stuff in your store. Nothing like this in Australia either, we are 15 years behind the 8 ball and never going to catch up .


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Hi Goingbush
> 
> Thank so much for posting about your conversion - and especially the pictures.
> 
> ...


Hey Banjamin, you have an 86" ... cool , I used to have a '54 LR about 30 years ago, it was so much fun to drive , The Lightweight is the only Landy Ive had since that comes close in Funness , (is that even a word?) .


To answer your question, why I chose the AC over DC , basically I want Regen Braking because its a 4x4 and its very useful for controlling descents and with the extra expected performance (fingers crossed) I'll need better brakes, so rather than sinking $$ into disc brake retrofit I put it toward an AC motor instead. 

Basically the Only Australian DIY EV Vendor only lists HPEVS , so that was I brand I chose , Being my first EV I also wanted a popular well proven motor & controller , AC50 / 51 seemed about the right size for the vehicle after looking at motor specs & what is often used in other conversions .

The reason chose the AC51 over AC50 probably unfounded in an EV but I figuired anything with a higher voltage is always going to me more efficient , 144v vs 96v but in a LandRover efficiencies go out the door - so probably a moot point. 

Im going to go for 45 x CALB 180 LiFePo4 not because of any Maths or formulas , its just a vibe that they will be about right for the conversion. 12 in place of each fuel tank and 21 under the bonnet / hood . 

My background is as a Telecom Lineman / Customer Service tech , so I know how to run cables and follow schematics , hopefully without electrocuting myself.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Front of input shaft 'trimmed' couretesy cut off disc & flapper wheel . 

I don't really think this should not be nescessary with a proper designed adaptor kit. But for what its worth .....


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

I removed ring gear from flywheel , though in retrospect it could have made a nice 97 tooth tone ring for a hall effect sensor for my cruise control. Gave it a light surface grind with a flaring cup on my rotary table. 

Bit of a problem the flywheel spins true on the Lathe but when mounted on the motor it has radial runout 0.2mm , quite unacceptable for a standard Landy at 3500RPM, let alone an electric motor with potential for way high RPM ( I'll probably limit it to 5000 RPM in the software )

It turns out the Flywheel is not sitting centrally on the Hub adaptor , The ICE flywheel bolts are 7/16 UNF with a shoulder to fit in the flywheel holes. The CEV adaptor has the incorrect 7/16 NC threads and short shouldered boults are unobtanium . 

I had to make 8 x threaded collars , loctited to bolts which act to centralise the flywheel. - again you should not have to do this stuff if you buy a kit .

photo shows 2 x collared bolts next to a original ICE flywheel bolt.










Flywheel now runs at .02mm axial runout & zero radial runout which is acceptable


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

I also noted the head of the ICE Flywheel bolts are quite shallow, so decided to skim a few mm from the top of the flywheel bolts because they are awfully close to the clutch springs . Problably never going to wear out the clutch enough to come close , but no harm done.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

I took the seat-box and floor panels out to make it easier to remove Fuel tanks and lines. Yes the car has no external fuel filler, you got to lift the seat cushions to add gasoline , and it stinks , Im not going to miss doing that.

Hmm, I'm not sure where I'll fit the charging plug 

I'll make a pair of battery boxes to replace those tanks , each will hold 12 cells.


I think while I'm at it I'll pull the gearbox out and replace some leaky seals , Its never going to get easier than this !!


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Wow excellent progress. Are you making a concerted effort to retain the clutch? Any logic either way for or against?

I've thought many a time that a low speed off roader could simply run the high/low transfer gears with a higher rpm motor exactly like the AC51 and fit in place of the transmission negating the need for the transmission and freeing the engine bay to take a similar weight and volume of batteries. And given the light weight pedigree of your Landy you have an excellent recipe for this approach.

Not sure what you think about it. Sorry, I should have mentioned it last week when I first read your thread.

Cheers

Tyler


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Hi Tyler , what you are suggesting is probably a good idea, but being my first EV project I want this a straightforward project and the CanEV kit I'm using bolts to the gearbox. I also have a feeling that I'll be needing some of the lower gears. 

That said , a pair of Suzuki 4x4 EV just crossed Australias Simpson Desert (715km ) drove till they needed charging then folded out a PV Array. one had a Forklift motor bolted the the gearbox (took 7 days) and another had a Perm Magnet motor bolted direct to the Transfer case. (took 4 days)


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Hey Banjamin, you have an 86" ... cool , I used to have a '54 LR about 30 years ago, it was so much fun to drive , The Lightweight is the only Landy Ive had since that comes close in Funness , (is that even a word?) .
> 
> 
> To answer your question, why I chose the AC over DC , basically I want Regen Braking because its a 4x4 and its very useful for controlling descents and with the extra expected performance (fingers crossed) I'll need better brakes, so rather than sinking $$ into disc brake retrofit I put it toward an AC motor instead.
> ...


Thanks so much for your thoughts!

I'm loving the pictures, by the way - really helpful for us morals!!


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Goingbush - what would be your reaction to retaining the ICE and adding the electric motor to the PTO - which has been tried before: see here and here.

Would this be insane...?!


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Awesome Idea, but if the idea was stealth drive, thats not possible in a LandRover - the enemy would hears the whine of the gear train before the ICE as it is !! LOL !! 

If My LandRover EV is successful I might seriously considering adding electric to the TC PTO of my Iveco Daily 4x4 - this vehicle has absolutely zero engine braking and terrible brakes , A mate of mine has added a Telma Retarder to the PTO to make it slow down and it just makes sense to put an A/C Motor there instead. That would be awesome because you could use the existing ICE to charge the batteries whilst driving . through regeneration 

a video of the Telma unit is at the bottom of my page declaring what junk the Iveco brakes are
http://www.goingbush.com/iveco5.html


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Made a mount for VW - Audi 12V Vacuum Pump to supply brake booster, using some machined out nuts to seat its isolation rubbers.

This pump does not have a Vacuum cut off switch , but I have one on order which replaces the booster check valve, the pump will only run to replenish the Vacuum after using brakes. 

Rubber isolation mounted using all existing holes, the bottom rubber is a modified Landcruiser leaf spring bush , the top two rubber bushes came with the pump.


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Great blog, goingbush! I hope you're going to do a write-up on their for your EV lightweight when you have a moment...

As there's not much room between the rear end of the transfer box and the cross-member (except for a pancake motor?) - plus the handbrake drum might make things a tight fit - I was thinking of an electric motor bolted to the rear of the cross-member just behind, with a stubby prop-shaft linking the two (I'm not familiar with what a normal PTO fitting looks like). Batteries (not many as I'd only be looking for a 10-20 mile range for short journies) could be laid under a false floor on the rear tub.

Perhaps something could be linked to my existing Fairey overdrive to make the electric motor physically engageable?

Is regen braking possible with a DC motor? I'm not sure how the electric motor could 'introduced' into the powertrain. I'm imagining an electric motor permanently hooked up to the transmission that was always charging the batteries

Is this starting to look a plan...?!


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

It turns out that a disk hand brake can be attached to the rear diff: http://www.remlr.com/S3ceremonial.html. Sorry for the thread hijack!


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Personally I prefer the handbrake on the Transfer Case for better Ground Clearance, If you can think of it you can do it . Nothing is impossible.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Motor fell into place quite easily , looks way too small .












The controller fits here but I might put it closer to the motor .


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Managed to convert my Cardboard CAD to DXF & sent the file to plasma cutters , Welded the pieces together & it looks like it will do the job. 

Anybody want the DXF file let me know & I'll upload it to my site.


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## prensel (Feb 21, 2010)

Did you see this on how to mount the controller on top of the motor ?


http://www.evwest.com/catalog/produ...ucts_id=227&osCsid=32fc1e4qc8t6f26i9j822nsoi2


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## WolfTronix (Feb 8, 2016)

prensel said:


> Did you see this on how to mount the controller on top of the motor ?
> 
> 
> http://www.evwest.com/catalog/produ...ucts_id=227&osCsid=32fc1e4qc8t6f26i9j822nsoi2



Bolting a heat source to a heat source... Sounds like a good idea.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

No Prensel, I had not seen that adaptor to mount controller on motor , If I had I would have been tempted to add some mount ears to my DXF file . 

and thinking of WolfTronix comment, may be good idea I did not . I think I've settle on a rack just above the motor . I'll might see if I can source a chunk of alloy plate and mill up a heat-sink for it to sit on .

BTW, this is a work in progress, not really planned out its just evolving as I get to the next bit, most of the project time is just me sitting there looking at it, working out the next step,..... I am a slow thinker, so any ideas or suggestions appreciated.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

About Batteries.

I was planning on using 45x CALB180 which I thought I could get initially for a really good rate , but when it come to crunch time they are working out like a deal breaker .

I have a quote for 45 x SP-LFP-200AHA which Im a lot happier with . 

Lucky I didn't make my battery boxes yet - though the are close to identical dimensions, but the 200 are a bit heavier , probably due to a more robust looking case ??

I still cant decide on folded / welded sheet steel boxes, steel frame with alloy sheet inside walls or polypropylene boxes 

Im leaning toward polypropylene , only I cant do myself I have to send that job out, I think it will be a much better result.


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

I know you are only going to use it for short trips mate, but you should probably think about at least a heat sink and a fan for the controller. I don't think you would get 10 miles without. CANEV sells a heat-sink which you could machine out and put a fan into. Or maybe you can get a chunk of something similar there. Given how bloody hot it gets (for a Canadian at least), I would really seriously think about a chill plate and cooling system, then you know you are good (and can impress the Sheilas). I know EVWest has some nice kit. Unfortunately, it all takes room and $$, but I have heard lots of stories about conversions which are "done" then have over-heating problems.

Good luck with the boxes.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Awesome , thanks for the tip GE. It does tend to get a tad hotter here than Canada , so I will defenetly take you up on that and make a heat sink (with cooling fan) .

now off to eBay to order a chunk of alloy . !!


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Batteries!
You are in a warm place - so you need Chevy Volt batteries - water cooled!

I'm using most of a Volt pack - really nice batteries and a LOT cheaper than CALB

Mine cost $3,300 NZD - all up , delivery tax, everything - 16 kWh


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Duncan said:


> Batteries!
> You are in a warm place - so you need Chevy Volt batteries - water cooled!
> 
> I'm using most of a Volt pack - really nice batteries and a LOT cheaper than CALB
> ...


I never considered these or Leaf batteries because there is no source of them in Australia, where did you get them .


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
You can get Volt batteries on http://www.car-part.com/

It takes a bit of faffing about but there always seem to be several available

The trick is getting the battery to your place - most shippers seem to be funny about batteries

What I found was that the local Hot Rod Import place had a deal with an outfit in California and they would bring in a couple of containers a year full of V8's and other hot rod stuff

they effectively had a US operation who would load anything that you could get to their place into the container

The US salvage yard did a free ship to the US guys who put it in a container and I picked it up here

Since then they have shipped at least one other battery to another guy in Southland

So look for a local Hot Rod place and ask who does their importing for them - hot rodders tend to be "Just do it" types - or here it is "She'l be right" 
So they don't seem to worry the way the normal shipping people do


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

goingbush said:


> Here is the problem,
> 
> Crankshaft flange on ICE , 34mm from rear mounting face of engine
> 
> ...


Sorry to jump in so late in the game, but I have a few observations that might save you from trouble later on. First off, the set screw over key design of your flywheel adapter (FA) is not a very positive way of attaching the fly wheel to the motor shaft. The FA can move around, throwing off alignment and messing-up the clutch action. From experience, to better hold the FA in place, people have added a bolt threaded into the center hole of the motor output shaft( I think yours has one) with a heavy pattern washer to clamp the FA in place. This may require a step to be machined into the FA to accommodate the washer. If there's room behind the pilot bearing for this bolt and washer, it could save you from a lot of grief later on. If space is limited, sometimes an allen head flat head bolt(or whatever you might call it in your part of the world) let into a bevel machined into the heavy washer, might fit.

Also, if you have a spacer that fits between the backside of the FA (near the motor shaft) and the inner race of the motor output bearing, the FA and motor shaft will be less likely to move around. The output shaft bearing is usually clamped or snap ringed on its outer race to the motor output end bell. Usually the inner race only has a light to medium press fit onto the motor shaft. Clutch action and vibration can move the motor shaft(and armature) back into the motor and cause problems if you don't have this spacer, and better yet, also the clamping bolt mentioned above.

Here's a question for you: does the backside of the flywheel have a recess(a step)machined into it that's a close alignment fit on the rim of the flywheel mounting flange of the ICE crankshaft? I see a line of grime and other marks on the rim that indicates it might.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Oh shit!

I had not realized that you were attaching a flywheel by set screws on a key

NOT a good idea!


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Duncan said:


> Oh shit!
> 
> I had not realized that you were attaching a flywheel by set screws on a key
> 
> NOT a good idea!


Its all done , I didn't think it was a great idea either , CanEV insist they have been doing it this way for 20 years and never had a problem. I fixed the hub with Loctite retaining compound then placed the complete motor and hub in the lathe and trued up the face of the hub. 

will see how we go .


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Here is the problem,
> 
> Crankshaft flange on ICE , 34mm from rear mounting face of engine
> 
> ...


Another solution...?










More here.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Nice 80" Conversion, Thanks for sharing . The battery subframe is a bit chunky !!


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

goingbush said:


> No Prensel, I had not seen that adaptor to mount controller on motor , If I had I would have been tempted to add some mount ears to my DXF file .
> 
> and thinking of WolfTronix comment, may be good idea I did not . I think I've settle on a rack just above the motor . I'll might see if I can source a chunk of alloy plate and mill up a heat-sink for it to sit on .
> 
> BTW, this is a work in progress, not really planned out its just evolving as I get to the next bit, most of the project time is just me sitting there looking at it, working out the next step,..... I am a slow thinker, so any ideas or suggestions appreciated.


I like your conversion. I have fond memories of driving 109s on near-non-existent roads while working on development projects in the wilds of Southern Africa, many years ago. Or, should I say not so fond memories of repairing 109s, and other vehicles, destroyed by clueless American Peace Corps Volunteers on these projects in Southern Africa.

Your motor mount looks like a good design. However, if the motor is a modified commercial induction motor like HPEV typically uses, there could be a problem. The long, small diameter through bolts that clamp the motor end bells to the outer housing(if this motor has this design) may not be strong enough to handle the counter-torque from the driveline. This counter-torque, at its max, is roughly the max electric motor torque X the overall numerical reduction of the lowest gear sets in the gear box (and transfer case?). Is this right, people? This would be a much higher torque than what the end bells and through bolts would normally have to handle. Also, these through bolts are usually not well supported inside the motor

I could be wrong, but the gear box looks to be bolted to a single rubber mount. This would leave most of the counter-torque to be handled by your new front motor mount and by the through bolts, end bells, and body of the electric motor.

My suggestion would be to drill access holes, in your motor mount, to the heads of the motor through bolts. This way the tightness of these bolts could be easily checked. If the bolts loosen up, this could be a sign of a problem. The end bells may or may not be notched into the motor housing. If not, watch for the end bells shifting over time.

And above all, don't drive like a clueless Peace Corps Volunteer!


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Thanks for your thoughts EW 
, Have been driving , repairing & reengineering LandRovers for 35 Years so am very aware of their frailties & they do need a be driven with a large degree of 'mechanical sympathy' , Damn those Peace Corps worker !! 

Noted your point of drilling holes to access the through bolts, I will do . However the front mount plate is basically to satisfy a local design rule regulation (ADR's) & to stop the motor flopping about , no torque control needed here. The Transfer case mounts to the frame rails by sturdy engine mounts on each side via a removable cross member & also has a longitudinal support rod to control for / aft movement, connected from gearbox to cross member.


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Sounds like you got it covered. Do think again about the flywheel adapter issue Duncan and I wrote about.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Hey BenjaminPalma

found a bit more info on that LannyClark EV 80" you posted, "blows the doors off a Supercharged RangeRover" 

https://www.lro.com/reviews/featured-vehicles/1409/electric-series-i


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Hey BenjaminPalma
> 
> found a bit more info on that LannyClark EV 80" you posted, "blows the doors off a Supercharged RangeRover"
> 
> https://www.lro.com/reviews/featured-vehicles/1409/electric-series-i


Ripper - thanks, GB!

I hadn't realised that she had lead-acid batteries - as seen here: ...scroll down...


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

BTW - what's your take on using this motor for a little Landy?


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Benjaminpalma said:


> BTW - what's your take on using this motor for a little Landy?


That motor will struggle with any kind of speed other than tarmac surfaces and be overwhelmed in tricky off road conditions. Not advised.

Cheers

Tyler


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> That motor will struggle with any kind of speed other than tarmac surfaces and be overwhelmed in tricky off road conditions. Not advised.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Tyler


Thanks - but how come this motor wouldn't do when it can produce 77 peak Hp, as opposed to the 50 Hp original ICE?


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Thanks - but how come this motor wouldn't do when it can produce 77 peak Hp, as opposed to the 50 Hp original ICE?


Because it's a con - that motor would be good for a Go Kart


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Yes. The technical answer is that the ice has a 'peak continuous output' of 50bhp and that is mechanically underrated for the ice anyway. Plus being a workhorse it is built for durability (aside from being a Land Rover...) Whereas the motor is rated a continuous 30hp which is the max continuous rating and then only max for about 60min in ideal conditions at optimum efficiency. For real world use it will be using high current to make good torque and decent acceleration and it will be way more than the continuous rating to do so.very quickly heat will build up in the motor and controller and either damage it or force it to make less power, which would cause you to demand more power to compensate and it quickly spirals out of control.

The best bet and most cost effective way these days to do a good conversion yourself is try get a complete crashed donor, or as much of it as possible and transplant the entire system. Or use the key parts of the OE system with existing known aftermarket controls to make the parts work outside their original home.

Hope that is helpful.

Sorry about the thread hijack goingbush... 

Cheers

Tyler


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> Sorry about the thread hijack goingbush...
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Tyler



All good, every and any opinion welcomed. hijack or not. 

I'm learning a lot . Thats what the impetus behind my project is, to learn the technology .

Unfortunatly EV is not taking off in this country (yet) like the rest of world, esp with lack of govt initiatives , and percieved long distances that Australian travel, turning people away from EV, which I call crap - 90% of people here do the commute slog just like any other so called 'developed' country. 

So there are no crashed or unloved EV's in junkyards waiting for enterprising recyclers to base a DIY project on , just hope the AC51 turns out as good as the graph on the HPEVS site leads me to think it will be. 










Anyway not much happening in my workshop for a few weeks Im AWOL on other duties.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
I know it's old technology but there are LOTS of forklift motors out there - and an 11 inch DC forklift motor would be just about right for a landrover


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> The best bet and most cost effective way these days to do a good conversion yourself is try get a complete crashed donor, or as much of it as possible and transplant the entire system.


Thanks very much for that explanation.

Trouble is, we don't have many electric cars being broken-up for parts yet in this country (the UK), and old, tired forklift motors seem to go for big money - with all the hassle of sourcing and removal.

That's why when someone advertises a matched AC motor, controller and plug-in diagnostic equipment at a decent price - it looks very attractive!


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Thanks very much for that explanation.
> 
> Trouble is, we don't have many electric cars being broken-up for parts yet in this country (the UK), and old, tired forklift motors seem to go for big money - with all the hassle of sourcing and removal.
> 
> That's why when someone advertises a matched AC motor, controller and plug-in diagnostic equipment at a decent price - it looks very attractive!


Taken to pm to respect the OP's thread.

Cheers

Tyler


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

I thought I'd just put in one more comment on that motor/controller combo, and that is not to trash the idea entirely - my guess is that baby will be at least as good as the AC-51. You can run it at up to 120V, which should push the output to be the same, and that motor - if it is real - is more efficient, lighter, smaller etc... and a good price too! Built-in liquid cooling is a plus as well - I like it, to be honest. 

Yes, an HV system out of an OEM vehicle is a great option - even better - but it all depends upon what the person needs/wants/can afford etc....


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

There's a good selection of AC motors here - which come as kits with the inverter, which is great for newbies. I just hope they can program the inverters as required at the outset and provide some support. They do a free spec-ing service. I asked what to choose if I was inputting electric via the PTO without a gearbox (keeping the ICE). They have suggested a "PMAC G8455 with ME1507" motor which includes a "Sevcon Gen4" controller, and an extra liquid cooling kit. I can't kind this exact motor on their website. Perhaps it's the same or similar to this one on eBay...? I'll go with Electric Motor Sport in any event just as I was impressed with their spec-ing service.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

If I had not already purchased the AC51 kit I would be buying the Netgain Hyper9 

On paper this looks way more suitable for 4x4 , More Power / more torque than AC50 / 51 and The motor is IP67 sealed , that makes it a no brainer for a LandRover conversion.

http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=8&products_id=469


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

I've not seen the hyper9 until now and I agree it is impressive. I'd suggest strongly for it over the me1507. 

Benjaminpalma Where are you based? Can you move this discussion to your own thread please?

Cheers

Tyler


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

I'll bring this thread back on topic.

Ive ordered 46 x SP LFP 200 AHA Cells as I could get them significantly cheaper than the 45 x CALB CA180 Cells I was planning on. Ive been told they will taker a month to arrive, but I'm expecting longer.

Whilst waiting on Batteries and other parts to arrive I'm thinking about where to fit my J1772 socket. The Donor car has under seat fuel tanks and you have physically lift the seat cushion , then remove a metal cover to access the fuel cap which is directly on top of the fuel tank . no kidding .

Same under driver and passenger seat . there is no external mounted fuel filler.

Im really going to love not having to fill up with petrol , you have no idea how it makes the inside of the car stink . 

Anyhow, I have two places I can think of to mount the charging socket, one is in the Clansman antenna box , the box is empty and the side opens with camlock clips, it used to contain the Antenna Tuning Unit in Military service. There is room for the J1772 as well as a regular 15A, 240v caravan inlet , (probably wont need both - just thinking out loud. ) our household power in Australia is 240V .

The other possibility is in the toolbox behind the rear wheel, Its get mud covered & is in direct road spray - probably not such a good idea. 

Its a toss up as the vehicle looks better without the Antenna box mounted, and slightly higher ? aerodynamic co-efficient but probably more convenient in there.


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Good on you.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Charging point

I mounted mine inside the cab - behind the handbrake - this way I could mount it physically behind my main isolator switch

There is a requirement that you not be able to drive off while connected - in my car you physically can't put the "key" in when the charger is plugged in - and you can't put the charger in when the key is plugged in

I'm using a caravan connector - and I have a short extension lead with a normal mains plug on one end and the caravan connector on the other end


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

OK thanks Duncan, I have read about not being able to drive off with the charger plugged in. Of course that makes perfect sense but I didn't think of it . (thats why I'm on here) OHS & JSA's are not my fine points.

Mounting the charge point under my cubby box lid is an option I could use, I have a decent sized cavity under a fake seat base between the driver and passenger seats. (originally used to mount 2 x 12v batteries used for radio gear) I was actually thinking of putting my master disconnect switch and one of the 600Amp fuses in an enclosure in there as its between two battery boxes, one under each seat. Putting the charge point in there is something I never thought of. Easy enough to wire in a 240v relay to disable low voltage side of contactor to stop car movement whilst charging.


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Please don't remove the antenna box - it's a quintessential military Landy feature!


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

That looks like a great solution goingbush. Only question I think I know the answer to is will it compromise any vehicle security if you leave it charging in town say and someone can therefore get into the cab because there's a cable trailing out of the door? Just a thought.

Cheers

Tyler


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> That looks like a great solution goingbush. Only question I think I know the answer to is will it compromise any vehicle security if you leave it charging in town say and someone can therefore get into the cab because there's a cable trailing out of the door? Just a thought.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Tyler


Good question. Have something like this attached to the chassis? Taking road grime and water but they're built for boats and are watertight...


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

tylerwatts said:


> That looks like a great solution goingbush. Only question I think I know the answer to is will it compromise any vehicle security if you leave it charging in town say and someone can therefore get into the cab because there's a cable trailing out of the door? Just a thought.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Tyler


I was always under the impression that the only security those vehicles were designed with was a squaddie with a rifle


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

yep, security is a Moot point . 

But I take on board the point about a charge lead running through the 'window' into the cubby box. Putting a J1772 connector in the Antenna box is top choice at the moment. The charger will be mounted above the footwell on same side so only a short cable run. 


If I get time today, I'll make a start on the water/glycol cooled chill plate for my Curtis 1239 controller , making it from a 300 x 300 x 22mm slab of Aluminium plate I have.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

This is as far as I got .

Not sure if thats my final coolant path . 









Rather than use a 12V Solar (fish pond) Pump I decided to use a proper automotive pump, I ordered a VW Auxiliary coolant pump, its a nice small pump with isolated mount included. no specs on current draw but I doubt it more than 15 Watt . 

one of these
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pi...2-0T-VW-Jetta-Passat-Golf-CC/32818270209.html


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
That will work fine - but is it overkill?
I just took a bit of aluminium 100 x 300 x 25 and drilled some long holes in it 

Two long ones - one across the way

Made up a couple of connectors and a plug -


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Couldn't you just buy something like this?


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Duncan said:


> Hi
> That will work fine - but is it overkill?
> I just took a bit of aluminium 100 x 300 x 25 and drilled some long holes in it
> 
> ...


Thats some neat drilling, I'd be sure to pop out the surface if I were drilling those holes. Anyway have milling machine, might as well use it !! Its just time, and maybe some RSI cranking the handles , (no CNC or motor drive table here  )






Benjaminpalma said:


> Couldn't you just buy something like this?


Thats what I thought, and I did buy one of those, but given the high ambient temperatures here most of the year, the consensus is that it wont provide enough cooling for the controller and the effect of performance will be noticed.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Chill plate done 

channels are 18mm wide x 10mm deep ,
think I'll use a new alloy oil cooler (instead of the old heavy steel original)


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

I'll thought of using RTV / silicone to seal the Chill plate to the Controller, but that going to be impossible to seperate later , not that i'll ever need to.

Im going to use Hylomar instead , its not setting, I usually use it on gearboxes & transfer cases, just had to look it up to be sure its OK with Glycol. 

http://www.hylomarsealant.com


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Still waiting for batteries to arrive, so just getting odd jobs done & trying to plan ahead for switchgear etc.

The fwd / reverse rocker switch in my HPEVS kit is really going to look out of place, (I assume its a fwd reverse switch) it occured to me I might be able to use the same Fwd / Reverse switch that I fitted to my Lathe when I installed 3 phase motor & VFD . 

https://youtu.be/TyhfuTQ1FyI <- I made that video to demonstrate VFD but you can see fwd reverse switch in action. 


ebay item 331775442413

That switch would look at home in the Landy, just be another lever sprouting out of the floor !! I'll make a mount for it to go in-place of the big rubber bung behind the main gear lever. (red arrow) .

Only problem , would you push it forward for fwd , and back for reverse (logical) or push it forward for reverse and back for forward (drive) like on a conventional automatic transmission ??


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> it occured to me I might be able to use the same Fwd / Reverse switch that I fitted to my Lathe when I installed 3 phase motor & VFD .
> 
> https://youtu.be/TyhfuTQ1FyI <- I made that video to demonstrate VFD but you can see fwd reverse switch in action.
> 
> ebay item 331775442413


That would look great - and would just look like a mini overdrive switch. Definatyl push forward for forward - and maybe ask this guy to make up a bespoke small plate for the top of, or near, the switch.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Only problem , would you push it forward for fwd , and back for reverse (logical) or push it forward for reverse and back for forward (drive) like on a conventional automatic transmission ??


I would only consider the conventional automatic shifter layout if doing the whole P-R-N-D pattern, because that's the only situation in which following the convention has any value. With just a forward-reverse switch, I would put in the sensible orientation.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
Here (NZ) we have a requirement that you cannot go from forwards to reverse with just some sort of switch
The idea is to prevent you from knocking it from forwards to reverse accidentally

I use two switches both of which have to be switched to change - and I always put a foot on the brake when I change


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Thanks guys, forward for forward it is then. 

Duncan, same deal here, I'll wire in a seperate momentary push button so 2 actions are needed, relay latches and switches in reverse . 

Local rule from NCOP14 quoted 



> 2.13 Vehicle Directional Control
> Vehicles not fitted with a conventional gearbox and using a voltage reversal switch to select reverse drive must be designed so that they cannot be accidentally placed in reverse. This action requires either:
> a) A combination of two different actuations, e.g. a toggle switch with a cover, or a separate reverse enabling switch; or
> b) A momentary contact switch which allows reverse gear to be engaged only when the vehicle is moving with a forward speed of less than 5 km/h. Above this speed all actions on this switch must be ineffective.


Im doing the whole conversion by the book, reading the rules nothing seems too stupid or difficult . ( but the 20G impact requirement for battery boxes is a bit over the top.)


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Don't get too worried about the 20G
If you have 200 kg of batteries that is only 4 tonnes force - 
mild steel is good for 370 MpA - or crudely 37 kg/mm2
so 110mm2 of mild steel - or four 6mm bolts!

Four 6 mm bolts is not very much!


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## electro wrks (Mar 5, 2012)

Is that in tension or in shear?


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

That was in tension - double it for simple shear


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Awesome, My battery is going to be split into 4 packs , the most being 65kg x 20 = 1300 kg , then I'll stop sweating about getting this past the engineer.

I'm making the boxes from 1.5mm steel sheet and each will be fixed to the chassis bracket with 6 x 8mm bolts .

Flanged top with Lexan lids, I'll have to invent the actual cell hold down method as I get to that stage , need to be 10G rollover Impact (inverted)


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Time to go off on a tangent again.

My Aeroflow AF49-2011 17in Hg Vacuum switch arrived in the mail so I decided to find a way to plumb it into my Booster, I was going to add in a seperate Vacuum reservoir & tee the switch into that but voila , my Booster has a 1/8 NPT bung on the bottom which I previously overlooked & the Vacuum Switch fits exactly.

I tested my eBay VW pump & it pulls an easy 25in. Plumbed direct to booster, which is only 12 months old & put a reverse biased diode on the switch to control back EMF ( switch contacts last longer) 

Im a bit concerned the booster may have a slow vacuum leak, or is this behaviour normal , nothing you would ever notice when hooked up to a ICE manifold vacuum.

Youtube hypertext links not working, direct link here is ok . demo of VW pump cycling ---> https://youtu.be/1qPzgfasQt0

If this is "normal" perhaps mounting pump of firewall is not such a good idea !!


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Pretty normal for booster to loose air slowly. How quickly does the pump make vacuum? You might just trigger the pump off the brake switch for assistance and be done with complications. Booster isn't huge. It will feel a bit different under foot though so perhaps try it out. You can easily plumb a tank in line below the pump/booster say. Just make one out of heavy PVC pipe and spray it black.

Cheers

Tyler


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Hey Tyler , thanks mate, Im no newcomber when it comes to working with PVC pressure pipe, have turned out a few spud canons in my time he he he, I just didn't think of using it as a Vacuum vessel, done as suggested and stopped pump random cycling , - woo hoo !!


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

goingbush said:


> Awesome, My battery is going to be split into 4 packs , the most being 65kg x 20 = 1300 kg , then I'll stop sweating about getting this past the engineer.
> 
> I'm making the boxes from 1.5mm steel sheet and each will be fixed to the chassis bracket with 6 x 8mm bolts .
> 
> Flanged top with Lexan lids, I'll have to invent the actual cell hold down method as I get to that stage , need to be 10G rollover Impact (inverted)


Hi
The 10G is basically "not escaping" - with Lexan lids I think you would meet that even without anything else!
Not that I'm recommending that you don't have anything

1.5mm steel is thick and heavy - - massive overkill! - I would suggest 1mm as the thickest


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

Who'da thought that the simple bung as in most 70s 80s holden and ford could be used to eliminate piping and T pieces? I'll check out my Suzuki Carry and Subaru Sherpa to see if they have a similar bung


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## poprock (Apr 29, 2010)

Watched video; is the pump mounted directly to the firewall? My UP28 is mounted to rubber small engine mounts as used on small generators and it is barely audible in the cabin.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

poprock said:


> Watched video; is the pump mounted directly to the firewall? My UP28 is mounted to rubber small engine mounts as used on small generators and it is barely audible in the cabin.


its mounted with rubber isolation bushes, Sounds real annoying in video, but now the leak is fixed its only pumping with foot on brake , I'm happy with that.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Duncan said:


> Hi
> The 10G is basically "not escaping" - with Lexan lids I think you would meet that even without anything else!
> Not that I'm recommending that you don't have anything


Sweet , I can work with that !!



> 1.5mm steel is thick and heavy - - massive overkill! - I would suggest 1mm as the thickest


"too late" she cried, I handed my drawings to local fabricators today . boxes will be 1.5mm , at least I'm not going to blow holes in them when I weld on my mounting bracketry  Good thing I'm not building a racing car then


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

goingbush said:


> Hey Tyler , thanks mate, Im no newcomber when it comes to working with PVC pressure pipe, have turned out a few spud canons in my time he he he, I just didn't think of using it as a Vacuum vessel, done as suggested and stopped pump random cycling , - woo hoo !!


Fantastic news sir. Glad things are progressing well. Looking forward to seeing the batteries going in.

Cheers

Tyler


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Battery Boxes made from folded and welded 1.5mm steel . 
Trial fitting before I work out the mounting brackets.

All boxes are 320mm high to accomodate 280mm high cells. Front box containing 12 cells, sits below the top of the chassis to lower center of gravity, but not so low that the diff pumpkin will touch it .

mounted behind that is a box for 9 cells.

Underseat boxes hold 12 cells each.

My 45x 200AHA prismatic cells have landed in Australia, just waiting for delivery.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Looking smart sir.

Cheers

Tyler


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Batteries Arrived .

Lots of work about to happen , trying to do using all existing bolt holes , but had to weld some tabs on the chassis for the front mount on rear box . (near top of shocker) 

I need to make a new brake line for the front left as it was routed around inside of chassis where front box is sitting & would have been an abrasion issue .


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Nice Progress - I hope you have more than what I can see there holding them up {


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

GoElectric said:


> Nice Progress - I hope you have more than what I can see there holding them up {


I'm hoping what you can see is enough 

The boxes are made from 1.5mm (.059") steel, Front box is dropped down into chassis and supported at the front with 2mm brackets bolted into existing tapped chassis doublers using 4 x 1/4 UNF , I'm considering adjusting that to 6 x M8 bolts . the rear of the front box is mounted via 2mm brackets using the extension of the 1/2" UNF shocker bolts . 

The front of rear box is going to be bolted to the top rear of the front box along the angle , to tie the boxes together for load sharing ?? 

The left side of the rear box is supported by two 8.8 M12 boilts inside 18mm crush tubes, 
The other side of the rear box is supported by a 6mm bracket bolted to the engine mount strut with 2 x M10 bolts. (per photo)

Calculating the sheer strength of the bolt sizes used gives way in excess of the 20G requirement , (Even the 4 small 1/4" bolts at the front are way more than adequate) but not being an engineer I can't calculate the forces induced by the increased moment of the high battery box at rear.


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hi - too funny!! There is more there than I saw the first time. I had a bit of a hard time figuring-out what I was looking at in that pic, until I realized my steering linkage is on the opposite side of the engine bay!! 

So, you have support below the front box and below the rear box - and you have them tied together. And you have a S***-ton of steel. I'm an Electrical Engineer, and have mechanical engineers working for me. All-and-all, it is the combination of knowledge and experience which does it. Gut-level assessment is tough - you may have found the weak point in the design, but is it still strong enough? I can't say, but heck, what is another piece of steel if it makes you feel better? You look pretty handy. 

My thoughts for you are in the direction of too much is better than too little:

1) even though both boxes are tied to the frame, can you tie the two boxes together in two places to reduce vibration?
2) possibly your most likely failure mechanism would be a front-end collision. It might be nice if you could triangulate some of the rotational inertia down to the front frame cross-member? Triangles are your friend. 
3) or, for the same reason, you could brace the top of the back box to somewhere behind it - to stop the box throwing itself forward. 

You seen to be open to advice, good for you. Bolt sizes sound about right. Grade 8 is better in shear than Grade 5, but some people think/say otherwise (screw them).


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Folks
Grade 5 bolts are seamed better in extreme impacts due to their brittleness. They won't snap like an 8.8 but rather bend. As you've both recognised already, the strength of the boots far exceeds requirements so a grade 5 bolt is fine. Fatigue stresses are better handled by the softer 5 bolt also. 

Goingbush
The only additional advice I'd recommend for your boxes is as goelectric said, triangles are your friend. But think of triangles in the sense of the theoretical axes between bolting points. So in the direction of most force/vibration you want 3 points. I noticed you didn't really have a high/low mounting point on the boxes but as you are fastening them together this probably isn't a concern. The only addition I'd suggest is bolting the boxes together at the bottom of the rear box to the side/mid of the front box. And if there were a simple opportunity, bolt the top rear edge of the rear box to a bulkhead etc. I might have missed something like this already so apologies for so.

But it's coming together well.

Cheers

Tyler

Editted some terrible grammatical errors, apologies.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi
8.8 Bolts are NOT brittle - they are stronger in impact than Grade 5 (by a LOT)

Saying that you don't need the strength anyway


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

I agree with triangles , But I do not agree that lower grade bolts are better to use, Higher grade are better in both shear & tensile .

I used 5 x M10 8.8 bolts to attach the caliper brackets onto the rear axle of my Iveco 4x4 & they all bent under brake testing . That is not satisfactory. M10 12.9 Bolts fixed the problem .

I am using all 8.8 or 12.9 bolts in this project.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

A bit more progress.

Hopefully the lengths of all-thread which pull the sides of the boxes to squeeze the cells tight together will suffice as a clamp. 

Interestingly that small 12V SLA 18AH weighs more than one 200AH Prismatic cell !!


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Folks
Enough said about bolts, but to be clear, I didn't say the bolts are brittle, that is subjective. But higher grades become more brittle and respond differently to shock loads. The 8.8 caliper bolts bent through lack of strength but the force wasn't a shock. The 12.9 simply exceeds the load requirements and didn't bend.

Boxes are looking very smart.

Cheers

Tyler


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Elvrx133onebay
I have had a look at your other posts
They are all insulting and stupid

Please change your tone or I WILL Ban you from this site


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

elvrx133onebay

Decided to DARE me to ban him

_OOOOOHHHH I'm so scared!!! Please feel free to_

So I did

But only for one month
Next time it will be permanent


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## Codmaster (Jan 1, 2018)

Duncan said:


> Hi
> I know it's old technology but there are LOTS of forklift motors out there - and an 11 inch DC forklift motor would be just about right for a landrover


Hi - new member of the forum here. Long time series 2 owner, I am researching a conversion of LR platform (prob coiler so disco/RR or defender with stronger gearbox/TB than series) for offroad use (in UK). looking for low range, low high speed, low cost. Considering the forklift motor option apart from the concern about replacing the vital engine braking of an ICE. From my understanding regen and therefore AC id the only option. I don't fancy coming downhill on a muddy hill relying on the (land rover) brakes.

Any thoughts?


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Hi Codmaster

Yes you are right - a series DC motor cannot be used for re-gen - it's not that it won't work as a generator the problem is that you can't control the amount of re-gen

That is true for a series DC motor - there are other types of DC motors some of them are OK for re-gen


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Latest progress photo, 

test fitted a couple of panel to check for spare room . seeing light at end of tunnel now. Onto the wiring !! 

I still don't know where to mount my J1772 socket, ( in the absence of external fuel fillers and I don't want to cut holes)


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> I still don't know where to mount my J1772 socket, ( in the absence of external fuel fillers and I don't want to cut holes)


How splashproof is the socket - 'inside' the front bumper...?

Loving the photos and updates, BTW - thanks!


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Codmaster said:


> Hi - new member of the forum here. Long time series 2 owner, I am researching a conversion of LR platform (prob coiler so disco/RR or defender with stronger gearbox/TB than series) for offroad use (in UK). looking for low range, low high speed, low cost. Considering the forklift motor option apart from the concern about replacing the vital engine braking of an ICE. From my understanding regen and therefore AC id the only option. I don't fancy coming downhill on a muddy hill relying on the (land rover) brakes.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Regen won't help you going down a muddy hill! 

It sounds like you want to go REALLY cheap. If you mean sooo cheap that you will use lead-acid batteries, then you are on the right track and I am okay with that. If you are going to spend the $ for Lithium batteries, I would also buy an AC motor, as their advantages are many-fold, including they can be driven without heating up. I'm not sure how long, but an old forklift motor will get too hot and burn the brushes pretty fast.


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Lookin' good mate! 

I'm not sure where to put the J1772 either, but - heck - I wouldn't be shy of cutting a hole to get it in the right place. 

Do you have two different fuses in there? One for each battery box?


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

How about making an extra / replacement panel somewhere, just small to mount the socket through? I'm thinking like a triangle in a corner below seat frame or inside a wheel arch (shielded from dirt) where it doesn't damage or alter the original panels or replace a small panel and cut the replacement? Looks like a few options this way.

Looking very good.

Cheers

Tyler


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

Re-Charger

Where are you going to charge?
I have had my car on the road for four years now and I have only ever charged it at home

If you are mainly going to use it at home then putting the charger plug/socket inside the cab makes sense


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

How about in front of the door, matching the air intake on the other side? Hah - you are RHD there, mate - just get a front right fender from a LHD vehicle, and you will have the hole pre-made!? Hahahah. But seriously, just cut a hole - it is YOUR Landy. Run the cables inside a sheath of some kind.

I guess another relevant consideration is: where is the charger?

I wouldn't go for something inside - what if you are charging at a public charging station? Or if it is raining? You going to leave the door open when it is charging? 

Jim


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> How splashproof is the socket - 'inside' the front bumper...?
> 
> Loving the photos and updates, BTW - thanks!


Cheers, Not Very splash-proof behind front bumper, & awkward to get at. I think Ive settled on the rear crossmember . the charge socket is almost identical fitment for the military trailer socket , then I'll need to alternate mount a regular 7 pin trailer socket in a discreet place. 

All the high voltage stuff wired up , tested charge circuit and DC-DC converter. No bangs , sparks or smoke , thats a good sign.

Just need to wire up the CAN for BMS and 12volt systems & reassemble body.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

GoElectric said:


> Lookin' good mate!
> 
> I'm not sure where to put the J1772 either, but - heck - I wouldn't be shy of cutting a hole to get it in the right place.
> 
> Do you have two different fuses in there? One for each battery box?


At present I only have one main 600amp fuse , and a 50 amp fuse for DC-DC converter & Charger ( both will not be active together) . Im thinking of adding a 400 amp fuse for controller. 

I do not have seperate fuses for each battery . is that a concern ?


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Duncan said:


> Re-Charger
> 
> Where are you going to charge?
> I have had my car on the road for four years now and I have only ever charged it at home
> ...


I most likely will only be charging at home too. I installed a couple of 15 Amp (240v) outlets in anticipation. But on the off chance I go touring I'll use public charge facility, or even camp at Caravan parks and charge via their 15Amp outlets .

I temp connected the onboard TC 3.3kw charger today using a 10Amp lead and noticed the extension lead got a bit warm after only a few minutes charging.  Off to the Electrical supplier tomorrow to buy some 15Amp flex !!


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

"I do not have separate fuses for each battery . is that a concern ?"

My battery boxes are in separate places in the cars I'm building, so yes. For you, I'd say not. Unlikely to crush those boxes in an accident, with what I call the "railway-track" frame, and if you did manage it, probably would have the steering-wheel through your chest anyway. 

We have no regulations here in Canada, so no idea what the legal requirements are, but have a fuse and two contactors IN each box. We figure the best way to contain an electrical fire is not to have one.

When you say "rear crossmember," you mean the rear 'bumper,' I guess? A bit awkward to bend-down and plug-in, but okay. If-there, then why not use the hole for the PTO? I don't understand why you are averse to cutting a hole in a panel. A lot cleaner up there too.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

GoElectric said:


> <snip>
> When you say "rear crossmember," you mean the rear 'bumper,' I guess? A bit awkward to bend-down and plug-in, but okay. If-there, then why not use the hole for the PTO? I don't understand why you are averse to cutting a hole in a panel. A lot cleaner up there too.


This is a rare Lightweight LandRover, probably no more than 30 examples in the country. That is the main reason I don't want to cut un-necessary holes, being the Lightweight there is no PTO hole. Plus I want it to look completely original with no external cues to it being an EV , just my eccentricity coming out.


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## Jonny Retrofit (Nov 6, 2015)

Nice Lightweight. I drove one as a student and it maxed out at 50mph!

For the charging port, why not chop out a few squares in the mesh grille up front and mount it behind there? 

Or there's the antenna box on the wing, why not make a use for that or construct similar looking replacement with the port on the side?


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Jonny Retrofit said:


> For the charging port, why not chop out a few squares in the mesh grille up front and mount it behind there?


Or make the mesh hinge forward?








[/QUOTE]


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

First time Ive ever admitted I might have a female side to me , im so indecisive & changed my mind so many times over the charge plug location. 

Now its getting to crunch time as I spooled the AC51 up this morning & I have to settle on a location . Thanks for all you guys input . To hell with it I'll drill some holes in the wing  & mount the charge plug in the antenna box.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

goingbush said:


> ... To hell with it I'll drill some holes in the wing  & mount the charge plug in the antenna box.


If you haven't cut the antenna box yet, and don't plan to mount an antenna, and saving original parts is important, you could custom-build a replacement box for the charge port... mounting it where the antenna box is currently located and saving the original box. Holes in the wing hidden by the box don't seem like a big preservation concern to me.


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## Jonny Retrofit (Nov 6, 2015)

brian_ said:


> If you haven't cut the antenna box yet, and don't plan to mount an antenna, and saving original parts is important, you could custom-build a replacement box for the charge port... mounting it where the antenna box is currently located and saving the original box. Holes in the wing hidden by the box don't seem like a big preservation concern to me.


Er, that's what I said...


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

Jonny Retrofit said:


> Er, that's what I said...


Sure enough, I missed that when scanning for updates. Oh well, they say that great minds think alike.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

its alive  

now the fiddly job of the 12v wiring tidy up !! 

for some reason I cant get the youtube hyperlink working , (video window) so you have to click on the direct link 

https://youtu.be/zKI6_p2n1Tg


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Awesome - great to see!!


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

OK, Charge socket temporary mounted in Antenna box, was not such a big deal after all. 

Rather than drill a hole in the wing I ran some flexi conduit on top of the wing . Theres a screw head which I can use to attach the P-Clip. It enters into the engine bay through a convenient gap in the bottom edge of bonnet. I don't know the intended purpose for this gap bit I'll use it . 

Looks a bit dodgy , but I'll see what my Vicroads engineer thinks when I go for inspection.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

That looks like a good solution. That seems like the ideal location for it also. Well done.

Cheers

Tyler


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Almost Finished










Unfortunately to get access to the under seat battery boxes, even to remove the perspex lids I have to remove the entire seat box , which is about a hundred 1/4" screws. Oh well lets hope I don't have to until my 3000 charge cycles are done  , in reality it only takes about an hour !! 










Just one or two small jobs left to finish off !! My Zeva BMS is working well though


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Awesome - thanks for the update.

One question. Given that there's no seal under the bonnet, are you not worried about heavy rain running down the sides of the engine bay and causing a problem?


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Awesome - thanks for the update.
> 
> One question. Given that there's no seal under the bonnet, are you not worried about heavy rain running down the sides of the engine bay and causing a problem?


No, I don't think there will be any issue . The DC-DC converter , Charger and Controller are all waterproof , The BMS units are moisture resistant but not waterproof , but they are no where that will get wet , inside boxes . 

The big enclosure with my contactors etc is supposed to be IP45 but the lid fit is on the flimsy side for my liking so I'll run a length of insulation tape around the join at the front . 

The only area of concern would be if the exposed flexi conduit from the J1772 in the antenna box is breached , water may get into the enclosure with my "charge sense" 240V mains detect relay , but my RCD will trip if that occurs & I'll know where to look for a problem.

I should also add I have foam tape along the bolt down edges under the perspex battery box lids - thats a pretty good seal . I have left a hole for condensation to evaporate.


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## Duncan (Dec 8, 2008)

My tuppence worth on the water proofing is that it is much more important that everything can drain

Keeping all water out is very difficult - but as long as it can't sit there it's not an issue


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Duncan said:


> My tuppence worth on the water proofing is that it is much more important that everything can drain
> 
> Keeping all water out is very difficult - but as long as it can't sit there it's not an issue


Could not agree more !!


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Well I got it all bolted back together, took it for a first test drive today , and I got to say I'm impressed . Its all I had hoped and more.

Glad I kept the gearbox though , Taking off in 4th is too sluggish . 2nd and 4th are great . Got up to 118kmh on the flat, I glanced at TFT screen & was pulling about 450 amps , Best I ever got before with ICE was 98kmh flat knacker. Sitting about 90kmh is comfortable , before 80kmh was about as fast as you wanted to go. 

I'll put as dash cam & mount go pro tomorrow & test it in the dirt . 


Charging 3.3kw , pumping in about 21.5Amps 









Only changes inside are the TFT screen and a few switches and regen knob , plus the forward reverse lever behind the main gear lever. (I think I have enough levers now. )









I put an Emergency Stoppo button where my old fuel cock used to be (mainly to fill the existing holes) - I accidentally hit it with my heel on my test run & wondered why I lost all power , wont do that again - I guess it doubles as an inertia switch :0










Bonnet up to prove it works









Murray River at the end of our street.


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Wow that looks and reads great! Glad it's working out so well. 

Do you still have low range? I'd be interested to hear if you need it or if the motor copes fine in second. Reason being, 4th is near enough direct drive to the axles (not wheels) usually so I'm wondering if you could mount the motor directly to the transfer case and use low/high range for your 2 speeds. Perhaps changing range would be tricky.

Cheers

Tyler


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Yep, still have Low Range , but thats no good as 4WD is automatically engaged with Low , I guess you could fit Free Wheel Hubs up front (not a fan) 

But still not viable, Theres no shyncro in the Transfer case you could never move on the fly due to the very square cut dog clutch. 

I did more testing today < (got video to edit) and 4th is OK, probably 0-60 the same as through the gears with ICE , But 2nd to 4th is much faster. 

Probably a gruntier motor would be OK on TC , like the Netgain Hyper9 , which is sealed and would have a problem with wading.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Heres a couple of links to youtube videos.

https://youtu.be/MYLrlbNpGxw

https://youtu.be/0Oe7UezGaO4

https://youtu.be/xw0QiJK_NGI


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## lottos (Jun 22, 2008)

Congratulations! Great build and seemed to come together so fast too!


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Congratulations - and thanks again for posting!!


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## boatman (Apr 13, 2012)

That looks great - I am planning an EV conversion on a 1500 Midget, but also have a Lightweight with a V8 in not great condition - so this has got me thinking 

Great job


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

boatman said:


> That looks great - I am planning an EV conversion on a 1500 Midget, but also have a Lightweight with a V8 in not great condition - so this has got me thinking
> 
> Great job


Thanks mate! 

A midget would be nice but it turns out the Lightweight is perfect for EV conversion, Well if you use Prismatic cells anyway . 2 of the 4 boxes I had made fit exactly into the fuel tank locations taking 12 cells each , One where the radiator was (12 cells) and another one on top of motor with 9 cells . They all fit like it was meant to be . But if you were to use Leaf or Volt batteries you could not do it so nicely . As it is I have not used any of the load or storage areas & thats why I think the Lightweight works so well. Plus its a real buzz to drive


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

It's a bit creepy but absolutely spectacular how quietly it sneaks through the bush! Just all that gearbox whine letting it down a bit, but then you converted a Landy...

Well done goingbush! This seems to be an excellent conversion. Wish I could see it in person. Lovely playground you have also.

Cheers

Tyler


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## Wiggybum (Aug 15, 2017)

Did you consider 1-Ton Land Rover gears in the transfer box? Much lower ratio than standard Series and would make it accelerate in 4th well. Or even allow you to ditch the gearbox altogether. 

Just a thought...


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

OK a month on, since completed conversion. 

A few thing to note, I changed from Bias Ply to radials , Wow what a difference, much less rolling resistance & can take off in top gear easily as they are 28.5" diam instead of 30.5" 

I took the car to VASS engineer to get it approved for road use , not a huge deal personally as it was already registered and I had no qualms driving it, but I needed certification so that I can have insurance encompass my modifications. The engineer said it was the best conversion he has seen and passed it on the provision I fit an inertia switch and get a "Certificate of Electrical Safety" for the 240v AC (Mains) side . , which I got the next day no problem.

Now the weather has cooled down (low 30's = 86F) and with the radials I can easily do 65km & have 60% battery remaining , as shown on BMS TFT screen, where before when it was low 40's (104) I ran out of juice at 55km. 

heres some dashcam Youtube around town from the last couple of days

https://youtu.be/wbBb6ZmkvD4


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

goingbush said:


> ... I changed from Bias Ply to radials , Wow what a difference, much less rolling resistance & can take off in top gear easily as they are 28.5" diam instead of 30.5"
> ...
> Now the weather has cooled down (low 30's = 86F) and with the radials I can easily do 65km & have 60% battery remaining , as shown on BMS TFT screen, where before when it was low 40's (104) I ran out of juice at 55km.


Tires are certainly important. 

Are those speeds and distances corrected for the change in tire diameter - that is, did you re-calibrate the speedometer/odometer?


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## tylerwatts (Feb 9, 2012)

Fantastic progress sir, great to read how the conversion is improving with use and refinement. Keep it up and I'm enjoying the updates.

Now she pulls so well, do you envisage being able to run without the gearbox and simply use low range for off-road and high for road use? If you're using high gear all the time and still getting that range you don't need the gears and save a bit of drag without the transmission in there also. Sounds ideal to me. But it might be a compromise at some point that I don't appreciate for your use of the vehicle.

I'd love to hear (read) your thoughts about it.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

brian_ said:


> Tires are certainly important.
> 
> Are those speeds and distances corrected for the change in tire diameter - that is, did you re-calibrate the speedometer/odometer?


Speedo is wildly inaccurate , so Im using a screen mounted GPS for speed / odometer , I reset its B trip meter after each charge to keep track.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

tylerwatts said:


> Fantastic progress sir, great to read how the conversion is improving with use and refinement. Keep it up and I'm enjoying the updates.
> 
> Now she pulls so well, do you envisage being able to run without the gearbox and simply use low range for off-road and high for road use? If you're using high gear all the time and still getting that range you don't need the gears and save a bit of drag without the transmission in there also. Sounds ideal to me. But it might be a compromise at some point that I don't appreciate for your use of the vehicle.
> 
> I'd love to hear (read) your thoughts about it.


Thanks, as ultimately the vehicle has enough range for my purposes , I wont remove the gearbox , Although its fine for general driving if 4th gear, I use 3rd if I'm entering a busy road and merging so as to not slow down the traffic , 4th is still a little underwhelming for that. 

Although there is no extreme 4x4 country around here, within battery range anyway, I'd like to also keep the lower gears for such occasions, but I'll need a trailer.


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Speedo is wildly inaccurate...





goingbush said:


> ... so Im using a screen mounted GPS for speed / odometer , I reset its B trip meter after each charge to keep track.


Good stuff.


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Thanks, as ultimately the vehicle has enough range for my purposes , I wont remove the gearbox , Although its fine for general driving if 4th gear, I use 3rd if I'm entering a busy road and merging so as to not slow down the traffic , 4th is still a little underwhelming for that.
> 
> Although there is no extreme 4x4 country around here, within battery range anyway, I'd like to also keep the lower gears for such occasions, but I'll need a trailer.


How about removing the gearbox altogether, and connecting directly to the more modern LT230 transfer box - found in most post-Series Landys, earlier Discos and Rangies?

They come in a wide range of ratios.

High/low gearing can be retained - although not changeable on the fly other than at low speeds. Overdrives are available, too.

Would the permanent 4WD add that much drag? More drag than the original gearbox?

Perhaps the electric motor could fitted flush to the transfer box case? Would there be enough space below the transmission tunnel?

It's a thought isn't it?


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> How about removing the gearbox altogether, and connecting directly to the more modern LT230 transfer box - found in most post-Series Landys, earlier Discos and Rangies?
> 
> They come in a wide range of ratios.
> 
> ...


NOPE , Ive been building / modifying LandRovers for 30 years , I know the LT230 well , If I was putting an LS1 in the Lightweight I would go LT230 .

Part of the beauty & charm of the Series LandRover is the Series Transfer Case . My Brief for converting the Lightweight was to keep it as original as possible, due to the rarity in this country . I'll keep the Yellow & Red knobs.


Better still than the LT230 is the Iveco / SCAM Transfer case , 4 speed constant 4x4 1:1 high . 1:1.3 underdrive with synchro & 1:3 Low range , and underdrive & Low range can be used together giving a rock crawling low ratio. $15,000 though . You need to do my circlip & seal improvement mods though , check it out on my site http://www.goingbush.com/iveco4.html


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> NOPE , Ive been building / modifying LandRovers for 30 years , I know the LT230 well , If I was putting an LS1 in the Lightweight I would go LT230 .
> 
> Part of the beauty & charm of the Series LandRover is the Series Transfer Case . My Brief for converting the Lightweight was to keep it as original as possible, due to the rarity in this country . I'll keep the Yellow & Red knobs.
> 
> ...


Interesting points - thanks.

I'd be cleaning up the Series gearbox and transfer box and storing them so the car remains as complete as possible. That said, my Series 1 currently has a far from original Perkins diesel.

Any technical reason why the LT230 wouldn't work? Are the propshaft flanges the same size as for Series Landies?

We have quite a lot of ice where I live - and permanent 4WD would be a bonus...


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Interesting points - thanks.
> 
> I'd be cleaning up the Series gearbox and transfer box and storing them so the car remains as complete as possible. That said, my Series 1 currently has a far from original Perkins diesel.
> 
> ...


Drive Flanges are the same right through to Puma, no reason at all why it wont work, will fit like a glove, But you will need to put Stage 1 front axles & CV's , Uni Joints in your swivel housings do not work well with constant 4x4 . Unless of course you have a 80" with original tracta joints , they are the bees knees , & perfect for LT230 , of course the Early Ring pull Series Ones were permanent 4x4 !!


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Drive Flanges are the same right through to Puma, no reason at all why it wont work, will fit like a glove, But you will need to put Stage 1 front axles & CV's , Uni Joints in your swivel housings do not work well with constant 4x4 . Unless of course you have a 80" with original tracta joints , they are the bees knees , & perfect for LT230 , of course the Early Ring pull Series Ones were permanent 4x4 !!


Ah - that's beginning sound like quite a hassle - and changing more than just the transfer box. I could change the gears in the existing Series transfer box and rely on the overdrive for highway driving, but then I'd need the clutch to change overdrive speeds so the gearbox would need to be retained.

Unless... Roverdrives can be operated without using a clutch...?

Or... GKN overdrives can be fitted to a series transfer box...?

I used to love the flick-of-a-switch action of the overdrive on my Triumph Spitfire.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Forget About Overdrive , you wont use it, just another drag point.

Electric Motors like revving , & are more efficient at high RPM 

In earlier photos you might notice I had a Global Roamerdrive fitted, A week after I got the Lightweight on the road as an EV I took it off . More RPM the better . I also change to smaller diam radial tyres. 

In fact if I was doing a Ninety or RRC I'd be wanting to replace the 3.54 diffs with 4.7 

If anything you want an Underdrive . Ashcroft have them for the LT230.


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Forget About Overdrive , you wont use it, just another drag point.
> 
> Electric Motors like revving , & are more efficient at high RPM
> 
> ...


Fair enough - thanks!


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

some dashcam clips from the last few days. all in top gear , 

https://youtu.be/wbBb6ZmkvD4

Watch out for an upcoming article in LRO

and "The Charge Show" spent a couple of hours with me filming for an episode. the other day.


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> some dashcam clips from the last few days. all in top gear ,
> 
> https://youtu.be/wbBb6ZmkvD4


Thanks - yes, I was watching that earlier today. Inspiring to watch!

Looks like you're keeping up with modern traffic.

Have you tried any long uphills, yet?


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## DIGGER11 (Mar 16, 2010)

Nice work - and done quickly for a home handyman.
I am also looking at a larger car conversion (back is too old for a sports car) and have a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind.

1. Do you think the HPEV AC51 is enough power ? I only need to get up to 100kmh in reasonable time without annoying other traffic.
2. Where did you get your parts in Australia? As you live on the Murray I assume you had to get everything shipped in anyway and I see you bought some parts from overseas.
3. To me the adapter plate is the trickiest bit to source locally - you got yours from Canada, is that correct ?
4. Did you consider leaf batteries? I read on AEVA that there is a bloke in Qld who imports them.

cheers

Digger


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

DIGGER11 said:


> 3. To me the adapter plate is the trickiest bit to source locally - you got yours from Canada, is that correct ?


Can't this just be made by drawing something and having it laser cut?

Is your Lightweight bellhousing a specific SAE size?


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Have you tried any long uphills, yet?


no, its all reasonably flat country within battery range, the longest uphill Iv tried is only about 5% grade , did not notice any differance. Likewise I towed a tandem trailer full of garbage to the landfill , really not noticed any extra strain like I did with the petrol motor , ( but I was using 3rd gear )






Benjaminpalma said:


> Can't this just be made by drawing something and having it laser cut?
> 
> Is your Lightweight bellhousing a specific SAE size?


NO to both , your motor shaft & gearbox (or transfer case) input shaft have to be aligned precisely (within .05 mm ) both axially & radially . best you could hope for with laser cut is +/- .5mm, thats if you could even measure it up that precisely . 

I have lathe & mill with rotary table , Its something I could do but might take 3 or 4 attempts before I got one right , I figuired why reinvent the wheel. The CanEv Adaptor was the wrong depth, but that was something I could fix . 

Randy from CanEV has amended the design to the depth measurement on findings & added a 17mm spacer to the front , so any future LR Series converters wont have the issue I had.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

DIGGER11 said:


> Nice work - and done quickly for a home handyman.
> I am also looking at a larger car conversion (back is too old for a sports car) and have a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind.
> 
> 1. Do you think the HPEV AC51 is enough power ? I only need to get up to 100kmh in reasonable time without annoying other traffic.
> ...


Hey Digger, 

You would not want to be any heavier (1560kg) with AC51 unless you had a gearbox. How about the new Netgain Hyper9 , AC - permanent Magnet , more power / torque for less money & fully sealed .

I got my Motor through EV Works in WA , but the backup service in non existent , no reply to emails or phone calls . I got my questions answered here and had to call HPEVS direct to confirm . Customer service & intrest in anything EV from Australian vendors is PATHETIC .

However Milbay.com.au on GoldCoast did an excellent job at sourcing Prismatic cells for me & at a saving of about $3000 from the west . 
Also Zeva BMS is totally excellent , will buy another next time.

Everything else came from Alibaba / AliExpress and very impressed with the Chinese EV stuff and even fast post !! 

I did not really know about Leaf cells until well into the project but they would not have fit so well in the Petrol Tank enclosures. Im poorer for it but happy with the Prismatics in that its a very neat & tidy installation.

Yes I got my Adaptor from canev.com, I believe all or most of their adaptors retain the use of clutch / gearbox. Only took 5 days after payment and it was here , faster than local mail. 

What are you planning on converting ?? Pre '93 cars are much easier in Australia due to no ADRs on Airbags / Crumple zones.


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Thanks, Don.



goingbush said:


> NO to both , your motor shaft & gearbox (or transfer case) input shaft have to be aligned precisely (within .05 mm ) both axially & radially . best you could hope for with laser cut is +/- .5mm, thats if you could even measure it up that precisely .


There must a reason why cheap flexible couplings can't used - RPM too high, perhaps?


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Any thoughts on running the controller cooling plate coolant through the Smiths cabin heater to kill two birds with one stone?


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Any thoughts on running the controller cooling plate coolant through the Smiths cabin heater to kill two birds with one stone?


When you need the heater , on a cold day , the Controller wont really be pumping out the heat . My controller got up to 65c on a 42c day, and thats really hoofing it . Im glad I put the liquid cooler on , but in colder climate probably not worthwhile. 

you probably need about 80c for the heater to work .


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> When you need the heater , on a cold day , the Controller wont really be pumping out the heat . My controller got up to 65c on a 42c day, and thats really hoofing it . Im glad I put the liquid cooler on , but in colder climate probably not worthwhile.
> 
> you probably need about 80c for the heater to work .


Thanks, Don. Shame - I thought that would be a really elegant solution. Temperatures where I am are usually 0c - 20c, so I suppose just a solid heat sink at most - or even nothing other than a metal controller mounting plate might do the trick.

I can hear my wife whinging about the cold already!


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Thanks, Don. Shame - I thought that would be a really elegant solution. Temperatures where I am are usually 0c - 20c, so I suppose just a solid heat sink at most - or even nothing other than a metal controller mounting plate might do the trick.
> 
> I can hear my wife whinging about the cold already!


Have to keep your wife happy , dare I say & Diesel heater might be in order .

Heres something to keep you motivated,
I have to grin watching this, can almost feel the Amps  

https://youtu.be/VlLIUwZOrVM


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Have to keep your wife happy , dare I say & Diesel heater might be in order .
> 
> Heres something to keep you motivated,
> I have to grin watching this, can almost feel the Amps
> ...


Ha! Ha! Now that's something I couldn't do even with 2 litres of modern Perkins diesel engine...


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

Don - who are your tyres made by?


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Benjaminpalma said:


> Don - who are your tyres made by?


the one on the bonnet is 6.50-16 STA Super Traxion (Specialty Tires of America),

They are Bias Ply , I changed to Radials last week, (but kept that spare on the bonnet) made a hell of a difference in rolling resistance, added 20km to the distance per charge.

The new rubber I got is Kumho MT51 225/75R16 , I'll probably put the 650-16 back on for the LRO photographer. The Radials just don't have the right look.


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## Benjaminpalma (Oct 25, 2017)

goingbush said:


> the one on the bonnet is 6.50-16 STA Super Traxion (Specialty Tires of America),
> 
> They are Bias Ply , I changed to Radials last week, (but kept that spare on the bonnet) made a hell of a difference in rolling resistance, added 20km to the distance per charge.
> 
> The new rubber I got is Kumho MT51 225/75R16 , I'll probably put the 650-16 back on for the LRO photographer. The Radials just don't have the right look.


Yes, all the tyres with the right look are cross-ply (Lassa, Deestone, Security, etc). Michelin XZL radials looks about the nearest - but don't see to be in production any longer 

This one comes close but they don't look easy to find


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## RonanRaver (Mar 4, 2018)

Great project and well done.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Woo Hoo, The Charge show did an episode on my Lightweight .

https://youtu.be/eeaGrr1boLY


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## PAXtss (Dec 16, 2017)

Just out of curiosity- Is the diameter of the two types of tires the same. A smaller tire gives better perceived range - it shows more KM for same distance traveled than a larger tire.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

PAXtss said:


> Just out of curiosity- Is the diameter of the two types of tires the same. A smaller tire gives better perceived range - it shows more KM for same distance traveled than a larger tire.


The vehicle speedo is way out anyway so I have a Garmin GPS on the screen, I reset "tripB" every time I charge and use that for my distance / speed measuring, So independant of gearing / tire size issue.

The new tires definitely increase range , probably a combination both of less rolling resistance due to radials over bias ply, and smaller diameter puts the motor RPM higher , maybe closer to its sweet spot at highway speed ??


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## GoElectric (Nov 15, 2015)

Hey Mate! Good to see the old Murray River again (used to live in Mt Barker). 

Terrific job, very impressed, as I knew I would be watching your progress. I have two conversions on the go (AC 50 and 51), but neither is my '65 Landie - I had the engine out and thought about it, but too important: its my fishing-wagon!

No tech questions I can think-of, but wanted to say something at least.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Noted ALL of my photos from this entire thread have been removed this is a Test post . 












OK the photo don't show . .. this http://goingbush.com/ptev/redknob.jpg This is not acceptable . 

Anybody know another good DIY EV forum that works .


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

test 2 , image posted to facebook , then copied here, this is ridiculous.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Hello, 

due to the STUFF UP caused by VSAdmin that disallows HTTP Images to display I have set up a Facebook Group "Electric LandRover and 4x4 EV Conversions" to host my images on a HTTPS server,

Can a Non Facebook user please check Page1 of this thread and let me know if the images are visible. (or even if you are on FB ) 

cheers Don


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

goingbush said:


> ... I have set up a Facebook Group "Electric LandRover and 4x4 EV Conversions" to host my images on a HTTPS server,
> 
> Can a Non Facebook user please check Page1 of this thread and let me know if the images are visible. (or even if you are on FB )


The images on page 1 work fine for me, without being logged into Facebook (I have an account, but don't leave it logged in).


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Awesome, thanks Brian, seems a good workaround then 

cheers


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## Tremelune (Dec 8, 2009)

Alas...I see no photos in this thread. As a truck-converting hopeful...I hope they show up.


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## goingbush (Jun 20, 2017)

Tremelune said:


> Alas...I see no photos in this thread. As a truck-converting hopeful...I hope they show up.


Bummer, All the photos were there last time I looked.

In the meantime I have a build page here 
http://goingbush.com/ptev.html

and a facebook group www.facebook.com/groups/1113080125510519/


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## brian_ (Feb 7, 2017)

goingbush said:


> Bummer, All the photos were there last time I looked.
> 
> In the meantime I have a build page here
> http://goingbush.com/ptev.html
> ...


I tried a random one of the image links, and got "URL signature expired" from Facebook's image server... but with the build site, it doesn't matter so much.


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