# Got my Logisystems controller



## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Wow, Brian, (rctous) just had the exact same thing happen today 
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=88999&postcount=559


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## mopargarage (Jul 2, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> Wow, Brian, (rctous) just had the exact same thing happen today
> http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=88999&postcount=559


Holy CRAP! This is not good. They have mine now.


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## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

gasless said:


> *Got my Logisystems controller back today. My Vehicle move about 4 inches and it died!!!! They had my controller for about a month and a half . And it still didn't work. I'm going to ask for my money back. I refuse to wait even a week for them to repair it again!!! I think I'll purchase a Curtis controller. Pissed Off is a under statement*
> 
> *  Ed*


I feel ya man mine lasted 12 miles, I got it back today as well. Overnighted it back to them and free up grade to the 750 amp


we will see

and your right pissed is an understatement,, I called them and talked to Jim just before closing,,, poor guy...

Brian


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

rctous said:


> I feel ya man mine lasted 12 miles, I got it back today as well. Overnighted it back to them and free up grade to the 750 amp
> 
> 
> we will see
> ...


 
Good luck Brian. I talked to a dealer of theirs and he said he was surprised there still in business


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

Yup, saw the same thing with a truck I did some work on. Day 1, 10 ft, dead. 1.5 months later, 6" + white smoke. month later and I think they still have it. I heard they had some issues with bad components. It's a bummer. Everything I heard before this was good and the fact that they have (kinda) a 1k controller is good.


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Booksix. Was that with a logisystems controller?


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

yeah, it was. but, aside from all that, I have to say that I think they will get their issues worked out. All I've heard is good when it comes to their stuff and, although it has eaten up a lot of time for some people, hopefully we can give them the benefit of the doubt, as they really are trying, hard... that's much more than anyone else can say!


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

I think they are good people at Logisystems. And they are trying. But I dont think I should be there Guinea pig. I paid allot of money for my EV, and feel 125 miles in a year is not good. I talked to them on the phone about it, and they said they road test every controller!!! I have to pay shipping back to them for second time. That's not standing behind there product. Plus who knows when I will get it back...Ed


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## booksix (Aug 26, 2008)

totally agree, you should _not_ be their guinea pig. I really hope you get it worked out! Keep us posted.


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## Tesseract (Sep 27, 2008)

What motor and voltage are you using and which Logisystems controller? Also, are the cables from your battery pack right next to each other (I know this question seems weird but it's important).


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

I'm using 120 volts. The controller was 156 volt 1000 amp. The + cable comes from the back of the ranger pickup. And the - is from the front. They are only close together at the controller. I have a friend with a ranger pickup and he is using a Curtis controller . No problems in 3 years. If you look at the other posts on this subject you will see Logisystems is having a problem...Ed


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

gasless said:


> *Got my Logisystems controller back today. My Vehicle move about 4 inches and it died!!!! They had my controller for about a month and a half . And it still didn't work. I'm going to ask for my money back. I refuse to wait even a week for them to repair it again!!! I think I'll purchase a Curtis controller. Pissed Off is a under statement*
> 
> * Ed*


Well, 
Take a deep breath, back up ten yards and... KTA might have one on the shelf ready to ship, that is where I got mine... and they shipped it the day it was ordered... mine is a 1231C series... don't know what you have need of, but at least the company is an old standby... good luck!


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

*Fugdabug* I sent the Logisystems controller back. Jim over at Logisystems ensured me I wouldn't have a problem with it again. He also said he would try to get another one to me by Friday. I think they are trying very hard to get things together. They are pleasant to talk to on the phone and seem very sincere. I think they deserve another chance. So for now I won't be needing a Curtis controller. 

Thanks Ed


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## mopargarage (Jul 2, 2008)

gasless said:


> *Fugdabug* I sent the Logisystems controller back. Jim over at Logisystems ensured me I wouldn't have a problem with it again. He also said he would try to get another one to me by Friday. I think they are trying very hard to get things together. They are pleasant to talk to on the phone and seem very sincere. I think they deserve another chance. So for now I won't be needing a Curtis controller.
> 
> Thanks Ed


Hey Ed,

You might remember I have a blown controller over at LogiSystems too. Because of yours and others' experience with the 'repaired' units I decided to spring for a Curtis because I don't think I could ever trust my LogiSystems again after all of these repeated failures. 

However, It does seem that maybe these recent problems have just been minor issues so I'm very interested to know how your repair goes. Please continue to keep us posted. Best of luck with it.
~Bruce


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

gasless said:


> *Fugdabug* I sent the Logisystems controller back. Jim over at Logisystems ensured me I wouldn't have a problem with it again. He also said he would try to get another one to me by Friday. I think they are trying very hard to get things together. They are pleasant to talk to on the phone and seem very sincere. I think they deserve another chance. So for now I won't be needing a Curtis controller.
> 
> Thanks Ed


Good deal!!! I imagine most folks that are out there really do try in some way to make their customers happy, I mean without customers you don't have business... right?... so let's hope the repair goes good for you! 'cause Curtis may be an 'ol standby, but they sure take out a chunk o' change!


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## 84bertone (Apr 10, 2008)

I too have a LogiSystems controller. I installed it in July and it has been working fine. But I got a bit concerned while following this thread so I called LogiSystems and they suggested that I send it back for rework even though it is working. They assured me that my controller is under warranty and if I decide to simply keep using it and it fails, they will take care of it.

I have to hand it to LogiSystems. They are very courteous and desirous to have happy customers. I believe they will get things sorted out and wind up with a good solid product. Personally, I am satisfied with my dealings with them and based on that will recommend their product to others.


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

When my Controller comes back and it works, I also will recommend them. I think they have every intention of fixing the problems that have plaguing there controller. I dont have a problem with you recommending them. You should do what is right for you. In fact I am kind of wondering why you sent this..Ed


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## CPLTECH (Sep 14, 2007)

I hope things go well for all. We have all spent a lot of time and money over this issue. I am still bitter over the grief they gave me back in Sept-Oct, refusing to speak with the end user. Since bitterness is harmful to one’s health, decided to swallow a Curtis pill to alleviate the symptoms. Burp. Starting to feel better already.
So …
1- I’m glad they got the message from a group of us that they had best speak with the customer,
2- To date GasLess, you have yet to receive a proven product. Please keep us updated.


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

You can bet I will keep everyone informed. I haven't had to swallow the Curtis pill yet. LOL. Looks like an awful large pill to swallow. And costly!!


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Brian did you get your controller back? If so does it work?....Thanks Ed


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

OK folks. Logisytems said they would try to get my controller back to me on Friday 12/13/08. Jim at logisystems said they had a problem with a piece of test equipment and would not be able to make that date. I gave him another call on Monday 12/15/08 and asked if my controller was shipped, mind you it was supposed to be in my possession on Friday the Dec. 13th. He told on Monday it was not shipped. I hung up the phone. Being pissed off now I called Carlo at Electric Vehicle Supply and told him I wanted my money back for the Logisystems controller. He called Jim and asked for a refund in my behalf and Jim said OK . Carlo said he didn't know exactly when I might get my refund but as long as it's coming I'm happy. 
Carlo seems to be a stand up type guy and I trust him. OK today I ordered a Curtis 1231c I hope every thing goes well with refund and the Curtis controller.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

Well, it is nice that you may get a refund, but ya gotta admit it isn't good news for the EV community!.. Just like with the problems that have appeared in the Kelly controllers, it just means we become that more limited in our choices for controllers... Which is a REAL BUMMER, considering that there is a real need for such equipment at this time!... Sorry to hear about the bummer.


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Well originally I was going to buy a Curtis and I wish now that I had. If I had a wiring diagram to make a good controller I think I would have given it a try. You right, there isn't alot of higher voltage controllers to choose from. You know there are alot of smart people in this forum. They should put there heads together design one and manufacture it. Just a thought...Ed


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

There may be another:
http://pages.interlog.com/~dgv/index.html


> His 500 amp unit is $895 if I recall correctly. He will build you an 800 amp for 1200 and a 1000 amp for 1400. Next year when he has a higher amp unit as a standard product (he has to increase his board size) it will be cheaper. His web site doesn't seem to show up in searches. RKM found him. He's a technical guy .. not a marketer.. that's for sure.
> 
> The acceleration profile is set in firmware... it is not programable.


http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=90125&postcount=22
I have no personal experience but it sounds promising.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

gasless said:


> Well originally I was going to buy a Curtis and I wish now that I had. If I had a wiring diagram to make a good controller I think I would have given it a try. You right, there isn't alot of higher voltage controllers to choose from. You know there are alot of smart people in this forum. They should put there heads together design one and manufacture it. Just a thought...Ed


Just calm down, take a couple of breaths... THEN start looking at some of the info folks have published on controllers... I recently put out a thread called 'a challenge to all engineers'. Folks are thinking, scheming and WORKING on designing and re-inventing controllers. IF we can keep the momentum going those of us who are 'engineering challenged', will contribute by questioning them, making suggestions ... listening to threads and links posted by folks offering help. It takes time. Since my controller fire with my original set-up I am on my third controller, and now the weather becomes the real factor!!! it was -25f. yesterday morn and -8f. this morning and our high should reach about -3f. today... couldn't start the tractor yesterday. Have to work inside on other things. It is closing in on 7 months at this project. (what should have been with the vehicle I have, a 4 month project!) Waiting for parts is one real bummer,.. (I will talk about that elsewhere.) Just grab a cup of coffee and start researching back into the forum... It takes a bit, but you can find a lot of the same story and a lot of INFO and resources.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

JRP3 said:


> There may be another:
> http://pages.interlog.com/~dgv/index.html
> 
> http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=90125&postcount=22
> I have no personal experience but it sounds promising.


I am going to write these folks today. I am wondering if they are involved at all with the folks that are doing the EV Trucks and commercial/industrial work vehicles? I had seen a site that was in Canada also that was supposedly producing vehicles we have talked of many time here in the forum... heavy trucks!... Even working on a SEMI... there wasn't much for contact info... that is why it didn't sink in right away! (thick head ya know...!) I will dig through the bookmarks and see if I can't find it, will post it when found.
f.


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## motor guy (Dec 17, 2008)

we also have a logisystem controller, we have blown up 6 of them.
jim talks a good game, but cant produce. he wont answer his phone. emails. he has had our controller since middle of october. we been in contact with the guys at grass roots and it sounds to me they are also hung out to dry. does any one have contact with jim at logisystems.
disgruntal about the situation.
motor guy.


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Fudabug, My truck has 125 conversion miles on it. My only problem was the Logisystems controller. I cant afford to be buying controllers. Your on your 3rd? I ordered a Curtis 1231c day before yesterday 2nd day. It will be here tomorrow. Where do you live? To darn cold for my old bones.

Ed


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

MotorGuy. I have talked to Jim at Logisystems on many occasions. The last straw was when I called and found out my controller was not shipped. 6 Controllers, all Logisystems???? I do think they are trying fix there controller. Ive just had it with them. I purchased a Curtis 1231c I would like to say I can recommend them but I cant. Just waiting for a refund. I'm in luck we have a Attorney in the family.Just in case.....Ed


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## CPLTECH (Sep 14, 2007)

gasless said:


> MotorGuy. I have talked to Jim at Logisystems on many occasions. The last straw was when I called and found out my controller was not shipped. 6 Controllers, all Logisystems???? I do think they are trying fix there controller. Ive just had it with them. I purchased a Curtis 1231c I would like to say I can recommend them but I cant. Just waiting for a refund. I'm in luck we have a Attorney in the family.Just in case.....Ed


Just had to send you a Private Message in your inbox...


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## mopargarage (Jul 2, 2008)

gasless said:


> *Got my Logisystems controller back today. My Vehicle move about 4 inches and it died!!!! They had my controller for about a month and a half . And it still didn't work. I'm going to ask for my money back. I refuse to wait even a week for them to repair it again!!! I think I'll purchase a Curtis controller. Pissed Off is a under statement*
> 
> * Ed*


FYI and FWIW, LogiSystems thinks they have made a major breakthrough in finding and correcting the issue of the controllers blowing up. They are doing a little more testing today (Thursday) and should resume production and repairs next week. Let's hope for the best


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Hi Mopar. I just got my Curtis 1231C today and will be installing it tomorrow. I just had to give up on Logisystems. I hope yours comes back and works good for you. I think I told you this before, but I love your car.

Ed


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## mopargarage (Jul 2, 2008)

gasless said:


> Hi Mopar. I just got my Curtis 1231C today and will be installing it tomorrow. I just had to give up on Logisystems. I hope yours comes back and works good for you. I think I told you this before, but I love your car.
> 
> Ed


Thanks Ed, I appreciate the compliment. My new Curtis 1231C is sitting in my living room and I was going to install it this weekend. But now I think I'll hold out just a little longer for LogiSystems. I really want my 156 volt setup to work. What the heck, it's been too cold and icy for me to drive it anyway 

Bruce


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Bruce, I think Logisystems will get there controller working one day. And hopefully work well. If I had the time I might have waited also. I plan to drive mine cold or not..LOL...Ed


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## KCEV (Aug 12, 2008)

Hope this recent posting from the MAEAA forum can provide perspective:

"Well, it was a sad day for Zippy, my Zap Xebra PK. It caught on
fire. Nobody hurt. The truck itself didn't burn, just all the
electrical stuff under the bed.

"The Logisystems controller failed, and blew the back end out of the
controller. It burned wiring, insulation, batteries, contactors, CV
boot, etc. It is a real stinky mess. It even caught the undercoating
on the bed on fire. The controller was a 72-120V , and I think it was
a 450A amp. I was running it at 84 volts with the current limit turned
way down. The controller only had 1300 miles on it.

"The fire dept came and put out the last remnants of the fire with their
big fire extinguisher.

I've called the insurance company.

"Guess I'll have to drive w/gas for a while till I figure out what to
do. I'll assess the damage more tomorrow in the light.

"Rats."


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Boy what a bummer!!! That's the 2nd one Ive heard that actually has blown up. Are you going to rebuild it?


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

gasless said:


> *Got my Logisystems controller back today. My Vehicle move about 4 inches and it died!!!! They had my controller for about a month and a half . And it still didn't work. I'm going to ask for my money back. I refuse to wait even a week for them to repair it again!!! I think I'll purchase a Curtis controller. Pissed Off is a under statement*
> 
> *Ed*


 

I got my new Curtis controller installed today !!! Yippy yi oh ki a!!! I put 12 miles on it today, and it's as smooth a silk. None of the jerking the Logisystems gave. I just hope it lasts. A working controller now thats how I spell relief. Happy Happy Happy.....Ed

Ed


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

gasless said:


> I got my new Curtis controller installed today !!! Yippy yi oh ki a!!! I put 12 miles on it today, and it's as smooth a silk. None of the jerking the Logisystems gave. I just hope it lasts. A working controller now thats how I spell relief. Happy Happy Happy.....Ed
> 
> Ed


WOW! Happy for you! IF we don't get the 6-12" with -30F+ weather they are saying is coming tomorrow I was hoping to get to the rebuild... I am laying out a new scheme for my components... the 1231C takes up the entire space of where I had every thing originally!!! Gotta start over!... But just like you 'happily'! Ride ON!


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Yea The Curtis is larger, but it works!! I had to move my DC to DC converter to the other side of my engine bay. Its pretty cold hear but nothing like what you have...Ed


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

gasless said:


> I got my new Curtis controller installed today !!! Yippy yi oh ki a!!! I put 12 miles on it today, and it's as smooth a silk. *None of the jerking the Logisystems gave*. I just hope it lasts. A working controller now thats how I spell relief. Happy Happy Happy.....Ed
> 
> Ed


Can you explain what you mean by "jerking"? When accelerating sometimes my Ranger with the Curtis 1231C feels "choppy" and "jerking" at times. Is this something that's not normal and I shouldn't be feeling?


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

My Curtis doesn't jerk. It was the logisystems controller that jerked. ...Ed


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

gasless said:


> My Curtis doesn't jerk. It was the logisystems controller that jerked. ...Ed


Yes Ed, I understand that. I was looking for info as to describe what this jerking felt like and when while driving you were experiencing it.

I also have a condition of "jerking" except I am experiencing it and have a 1231C Curtis controller.

Since your post I've been reading that "judder, shunt, and clonk" is a problem that appears in EVs and can be felt/transferred into driveline vibrations from the high torque of electric motors.

I suspect that in my situation it might be caused more from my driveline components than the controller, (driveshaft possibly 180˚ out, transmission/rear end gear lash, motor mounts, ect.) but at this point after reading your post where the controller fixed your problem, I'm not ruling out my Curtis PWM controller's input to the motor as a possible contributor. Especially when some of these conditions appear to go away when I shift into neutral.

Although It's over my head in some (many) respects, the paper below does point out some motor/driveline problems in EVs due to their high torque situations. 

https://aerade.cranfield.ac.uk/bitstream/1826/1694/1/Lee-2006.pdf

Terry


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Mine only jerked when stating from a dead stop. While driving it's fine. Changing from the logisystems controller to a Curtis cured the problem.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

gasless said:


> Yea The Curtis is larger, but it works!! I had to move my DC to DC converter to the other side of my engine bay. Its pretty cold hear but nothing like what you have...Ed


Well I think it is all that 'hot air' over that way ya know... pushing all the snow and cold our way!!!... ... I am really glad to hear the Curtis works for you, I was sitting here last night coming up with a combination of aluminum and copper for a heatsink design that would incorporate intake air and a fan to cool the controller (that could be recirculated in the motor cabinet in in the deep winter!). Too bad the LogiSystems controller went belly up. I had considered that option but I figured that I saw enough conflicting reports to question the 'logic' (no pun intended) of spending the money if it might be a questionable situation. So I decided the 'more sure' bet was a Curtis. Hope to have the heatsink built this week and mounted and the rest of the configuration pretty much ready to go in about two weeks... right in the beginning of our 'dead of winter'... good thing I have been keeping the traction pack toasty...  
I sure hope the folks at LogiSystems get their act together... I am still looking for the site I found in Canada by the way. I tried to find it the other day again... I did manage to find the Canadian Transport site (they have been incorporating EV's for a while now)


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

I was just wondering,.. you put in a new(?) manual tranny, correct? Did you put tranny grease in it? Also, it is possible that your clutch could use some minor adjustment? Sometimes it can be the simplest things... actually the first thing that crossed my mind was the u-joints.(?) It sounds much more mechanical than electric.
Another thing, do you tend to 'pop' the clutch or do you ease it... (when you shift)


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Yup I put a real large fan out back pointed east. Get that cold out of here. Burrrr. Can you put a temporary heaters in to warm things up for a shot drive?


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

My truck came with a manual trans. When the Logisystems controller was working, You give it a little throttle from a dead stop and it would jerk. I tried adjusting it for a smooth start but it did the same thing. I did it according there instructions...Ed


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

gasless said:


> My truck came with a manual trans. When the Logisystems controller was working, You give it a little throttle from a dead stop and it would jerk. I tried adjusting it for a smooth start but it did the same thing. I did it according there instructions...Ed


I could never really stop the immediate acceleration response when I had my Kelly controller no matter the setting. It may be due to the potentiometer in the throttle... just the voltage in initially. Also in thinking about it, there is an almost natural response to push lightly on the pedal and when it kicks in you pull off a bit because the response isn't the same as a gas rig... I realized that coming out of the garage or even from the driveway, it was the initial pickup of acceleration that would always sort of startle me and I would withdraw my foot... But it may just be mechanical in your case. I do know that I was calculating how I was going to deal with reverse in an ordinary situation, because my reverse gear was a terror! No matter how light I pressed it was REVERSE HO! and jerky!... So I got a reversing contactor for my new set-up... I will just reverse in first which is a 'much nicer gear'. I also found that second gear was a smoother gear to start out in as well.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

gasless said:


> Yup I put a real large fan out back pointed east. Get that cold out of here. Burrrr. Can you put a temporary heaters in to warm things up for a shot drive?


YES!... I have an oil-filled thermostatically controlled plug in heater in the vehicle now (to keep the traction batteries above 32f. ... it is -16.6f this morn...) So I do know that that heater is a good idea for short drives because as long as it keeps heat you temper the interior of the vehicle,.. just don't forget to UNPLUG IT... And provided you haven't any gaping holes in the firewall or elsewhere it will keep the interior nice and toasty. serves to keep one warm when working in an unheated garage too!


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## rfengineers (Jun 2, 2008)

fugdabug said:


> I could never really stop the immediate acceleration response when I had my Kelly controller no matter the setting. It may be due to the potentiometer in the throttle... just the voltage in initially. Also in thinking about it, there is an almost natural response to push lightly on the pedal and when it kicks in you pull off a bit because the response isn't the same as a gas rig... I realized that coming out of the garage or even from the driveway, it was the initial pickup of acceleration that would always sort of startle me and I would withdraw my foot... But it may just be mechanical in your case. I do know that I was calculating how I was going to deal with reverse in an ordinary situation, because my reverse gear was a terror! No matter how light I pressed it was REVERSE HO! and jerky!... So I got a reversing contactor for my new set-up... I will just reverse in first which is a 'much nicer gear'. I also found that second gear was a smoother gear to start out in as well.


My Curtis 1231 accelerates smoothly from a stop in either 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. I've never had the car in 1st. Reverse is very smooth, but I have a relay that places a swamping resistor across the throttle pot when in reverse. The pot range in forward is 0-5000 Ohms and in reverse it is 0-1660 Ohms.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Have you checked you motor mounts? My Civic was jerking every time I hit the pedal and it ended up being a loose motor mount bracket. My whole motor/tranny setup would bounce with all that electric torque and now than my mount it properly set the jerkiness and clunking is gone.


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Yea I think right now the Curtis is the best buy. So far I'm happy with the Curtis. Very smooth. Unlike the Logisystems..Ed


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## gasless (Jul 10, 2008)

Motor mounts are fine. It was just the Logisystems controller jerking. The Curtis doesn't jerk at all.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

rfengineers said:


> My Curtis 1231 accelerates smoothly from a stop in either 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. I've never had the car in 1st. Reverse is very smooth, but I have a relay that places a swamping resistor across the throttle pot when in reverse. The pot range in forward is 0-5000 Ohms and in reverse it is 0-1660 Ohms.


This is something I didn't consider... the relay with a resistor on the pot... I remember seeing it mentioned before. Any threads or resources dealing with the wiring in of such a config???


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## rfengineers (Jun 2, 2008)

fugdabug said:


> This is something I didn't consider... the relay with a resistor on the pot... I remember seeing it mentioned before. Any threads or resources dealing with the wiring in of such a config???


It's fairly straightforward. I connected the relay coil to the reverse light circuit, so when the backup lights come on the relay closes.

I will draw up a quick diagram and stick it in the WIKI. Give me a few hours.

Joe


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## rfengineers (Jun 2, 2008)

I'm going to post it here first, give me feedback. Is this diagram clear? If it is I will add it to the WIKI.

Joe


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

rfengineers said:


> I'm going to post it here first, give me feedback. Is this diagram clear? If it is I will add it to the WIKI.
> 
> Joe


Wow! Thanks, it is a very straight forward addition!... (yes, it was very clear to read). It would prevent an ON-RUSH when the relay is engaged and the 'reverse' circuitry is charged, just as the pre-charge resistor does when starting up, but adds resistance to reduce the power applied, am I correct?


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## mopargarage (Jul 2, 2008)

rfengineers said:


> I'm going to post it here first, give me feedback. Is this diagram clear? If it is I will add it to the WIKI.
> 
> Joe


Thanks for posting the diagram. What value (watts and ohms) are you using for your swamping resistor?


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

rfengineers said:


> I'm going to post it here first, give me feedback. Is this diagram clear? If it is I will add it to the WIKI.
> 
> Joe


Now you went from a rating of 0-5000 Ohms to 0-1660 Ohms which would require a Resistance of about 3.4K Ohm of about 20 Watts..(?) correct with a 12VDC 4-position relay... did I get the post right?


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## mopargarage (Jul 2, 2008)

fugdabug said:


> Now you went from a rating of 0-5000 Ohms to 0-1660 Ohms which would require a Resistance of about 3.4K Ohm of about 20 Watts..(?) correct with a 12VDC 4-position relay... did I get the post right?


I looks like a SPST n.o. relay to me. When the relay is energized by the backup light circuit, it closes and allows the swamping resistor circuit to complete and become parallel with the throttle pot. Right???  I don't know the current so I don't know what wattage resistor is needed.


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## elevatorguy (Jul 26, 2007)

The resistor would not need to be a 20 watt, very little current runs through the potbox, a half watt resistor would be fine.
Choice of resistor would depend on how fast you want to reverse, ie 5k ohms in parallel would give 1/2 speed. 
Mopar is correct, you need a spst n.o relay actuated by your reverse circuit.
1/(1/r1+1/r2) to figure 2 resistors in parallel.


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## rfengineers (Jun 2, 2008)

The resistor only needs to be 1/2-Watts or so. I am using a 2500-Ohm resistor which gives me a max resistance of 1/(1/5000+1/2500) = 1667-Ohms.

This circuit does not effect inrush current, it is only to slow down the EV max speed.

It could also be used to put the car in "Valet" or "Teen" mode.

Refer to figure 15 on page 20 of the Curtis controller manual for more information.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

rfengineers said:


> The resistor only needs to be 1/2-Watts or so. I am using a 2500-Ohm resistor which gives me a max resistance of 1/(1/5000+1/2500) = 1667-Ohms.
> 
> This circuit does not effect inrush current, it is only to slow down the EV max speed.
> 
> ...


I was thinking of the resistor for the Contactor that is recommended for the 1231C, sorry... brain fart. Now the relay could be wired as such (using a standard auto 30A 12v relay: see attachment...


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## rfengineers (Jun 2, 2008)

fugdabug said:


> I was thinking of the resistor for the Contactor that is recommended for the 1231C, sorry... brain fart. Now the relay could be wired as such (using a standard auto 30A 12v relay: see attachment...


Yes, that looks good. You might want to add a diode across the relay coil. The 30-A relay is overkill, but that is what I used because I have a box of them on the workbench.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

rfengineers said:


> Yes, that looks good. You might want to add a diode across the relay coil. The 30-A relay is overkill, but that is what I used because I have a box of them on the workbench.


I was wanting a 20A when I went 'shopping' locally and could only find the 30A. As for diode something like a (?)1N1440(?) or maybe an RS1100? I have some 1N4148s sitting here taking up space...


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## rfengineers (Jun 2, 2008)

fugdabug said:


> I was wanting a 20A when I went 'shopping' locally and could only find the 30A. As for diode something like a (?)1N1440(?) or maybe an RS1100? I have some 1N4148s sitting here taking up space...


A 1N4148 is a small signal diode and won't do. You should use a 1N4001 (or larger, e.g. 1N4002,3,4...) rectifier diode.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

rfengineers said:


> A 1N4148 is a small signal diode and won't do. You should use a 1N4001 (or larger, e.g. 1N4002,3,4...) rectifier diode.


gotcha!... have to do some scrounging... all I have other is 1N5408's (got those from my favorite Kelly tech... who sent me four of those instead of the diodes that I ordered!)


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## rfengineers (Jun 2, 2008)

fugdabug said:


> gotcha!... have to do some scrounging... all I have other is 1N5408's (got those from my favorite Kelly tech... who sent me four of those instead of the diodes that I ordered!)


A 1N5408 is a 3-Amp rectifier. It will do just fine for this purpose.


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## fugdabug (Jul 14, 2008)

rfengineers said:


> A 1N5408 is a 3-Amp rectifier. It will do just fine for this purpose.


Ah, finally I find a use for one of those buggers! Thanks for the guidance!


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## Rerun (Dec 27, 2008)

I just read this entire thread... feeling compelled to contribute.

The guys at Logisystems are very nice and mean well. I don't want to appear to be slamming their products. Eventually, they will get these design flaws fixed. The fact remains that a flawed motor controller is dangerous, even to an experienced installer. If you plan to use Logisystems, there are precautions you should take.

- Add an emergency disconnect (specifically a kill feed from traction pack) that can be actuated from inside the car. This is in case of runaway conditions as well as the fire/blow-out-the-endcap-of-the-controller situation which can also slam the motor and the transmission to the point of damage. Never have the car running without somebody at the emergency disconnect, even if it's on jack stands.
- Carry a fire extinguisher.
- Install flame deflectors / heat shields around the encaps of the controller. If the controller blows, it burns everything placed near the ends (emergency disconnect helps this somewhat).
- Never make adjustments to the controller with the traction pack connected.
- Install fans.


My buddies and I have gone through several of the 1000 amp version. I can't emphasize an emergency disconnect enough...


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## TexomaEV (Jul 26, 2007)

Rerun, I can't agree more. When we were testing my brother's E-Trike up on jackstands, we went through all the gears, running the motor, etc. I was standing right next to the end cap that blows when the controller goes bad. 

Luckily it didn't blow until my brother took it out on it's maiden run, right after we verified everything was working fine while up on jackstands. If it had blown with me literally right up next to the controller endcap, I probably would not be here today writing this message.

BE VERY CAREFUL, folks .................

Photos of the E-Trike: 

www.flickr.com/photos/mbarkley/sets/72157606407927310/

We installed a Curtis Controller on the E-Trike within an hour after the LogiSystem controller popped, with the same exact wiring, the Curtis has been working fine ever since.



Rerun said:


> I just read this entire thread... feeling compelled to contribute.
> 
> The guys at Logisystems are very nice and mean well. I don't want to appear to be slamming their products. Eventually, they will get these design flaws fixed. The fact remains that a flawed motor controller is dangerous, even to an experienced installer. If you plan to use Logisystems, there are precautions you should take.
> 
> ...


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