# Proposed thread of mechanics favorite tricks



## gsmith191145 (May 1, 2011)

How to repair a melted/broken battery post.

Sand post down flush. 

Flux post and apply silicone around post.

Make leak proof mold out of 2x4.

Heat lead from tire weights and discard steel clips.

Pour molten lead into mold. 

Pour cup of water under mold to cool plastic. (Do not pour water on molten lead)

Break mold apart and connect your batteries. 




























Enjoy


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## brainzel (Jun 15, 2009)

*how to change the rear brakes of a VW New Beetle / Rabbit / Jetta*

Please be patient with me, I hope to get it declared (in english!) as good as I can 

These explanation should guide you through the process of changing the rear brake disks and pads. The procedure is similar to Volkswagen New Beetle, Jetta/Bora, Rabbit/GolfIV and some other VWs.

Caution! Brake parts are safty components and should only be fixed by trained staff!

What you need:
spanner wrench size 13 (europe)
spanner wrench size 15 (europe)
big Phillips screwdriver
steel brush
multigrip pliers /pipe wrench or better: VW brake piston reset tool
multi-function oil (like WD40)
grease
brake cleaner

1st step:
Use a jack to pump up the car and relieve the rear whell you want to take of first.
The tire should stay on ground but the pressure should taken of the rubber.
Take a wrench mith a 17mm nut to loosen the five bolts a little.
Only a quarter or a half turn, so the most force is taken of the bolts.
Pump up the jack until the tire floats an inch above the garage floor.
Loosen all five bolts one by one, take a hand against the rim, so the tire can't tip from the hub/nave.
Remove the tire.

2nd step:
Take the two spanner wrenches (13 and 15) to loosen the two pins at the caliper that holds the pads in place.
The 15 fixes the bolt, the 13 screwes it loose.
If it's hard to screw, take the multi-function oil (WD40) and spray.
Wait a few minutes, the oil will creep in every ***** and lighten your work.
After taken off both splines, you can remove the brake caliper.
Clean the splines, take some fine sandpaper if needed (rust).

3rd step:
Take the big Phillips screwdriver and loosen the Phillips srew in the circle of the five bolt holes.
You can now take of the old brake disk.

4th step:
Take the steel brush to remove rust, brake dust and dirt.
Clean up the exposed areas. Take some brake cleaner and a robust cotton cloth.

5th step:
The piston must be pulled back to get enough space for the new / thicker pads and disk.
So if you can borrow a VW brake piston reset tool it would be the best.
Otherwise, you have to take a multigrip pliers /pipe wrench or a sililar tool to get pressure to the piston and push him back in the caliper.
Be careful! Don't hurt the rubber bellows!
2 inches (45-50mm) should be enough to get the new parts between the piston and the caliper.

6th step:
Reassemble with the new parts.
Start with the disk, put the pads into the caliper, pull the paliper wih brake pads over the disk in it's place.
Take the two splines, put some grease to them and let them slip back into their position.

7th step:
Tighten the Splines and the Phillips screw

8th step:
Take the brake cleaner and a clean cutton cloth and make sure that no oil or graes is left on the brake disk. This is very important! Otherwise you won't have full brake power!

9th step:
Tires on, tighten bolts, get the car back down (reverse the introduction).

10th step:
carefully testing the brake at low speed.

11th:
If everything's OK: open up a cold beer or limonade and praise yourself. You've done a great job


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Good posts, both. You are especially right about dont hurt the bellows. That is the most common mistake.

Dont worry, you're English is fine. It would be my problem if I couldn't figure what you meant. It is really a patched together, borrowed, step-child language. But it does have the ability to just "invent" new terms and evolve as necessary to suit new things, like Technical terms. You actually write better than most New Yorkers...(oops) : )


Tech Tip: Common oven cleaner is great to do many cleaning jobs. It will take spray paint off of car doors without harming the factory paint under neath. (Like a hand painted business sign). After removing that pesky I.C.E. drivetrane, 
Spray it all over the greasy engine compartment. Let it set, wash off/


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Be careful with chemicals and welding.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vF3X0GaPUeo/Sm3iotyWwzI/AAAAAAAAAmM/kw_229iGrcc/s1600-h/87c8ee40.jpg

Some brake cleaners can produce phosgene gas when welded.
Borrowed from my other forum of choice.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69687



When faced with a very tight nut use a socket and breaker bar, apply a steady force in the 'undo' direction and then hit the end of the socket with a large copper (or other soft faced) hammer. The shock of the impact will help loosen the nut.



Save your broken hacksaw blades and grind into scrapers for removing gaskets and other gunk.



If in doubt stop and get expert advice.


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## mjcrow (Jan 5, 2008)

A quick tip I was taught as a first year apprentice mechanic (many years ago). A single drop of clean engine oil on bolt threads before installation will substantially reduce the chance of corrosion and should allow easy removal of bolts 10-20 years later.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Brake fluid is clear when new. It is extremely Hygroscopic (it absorbs mousture from the air). As it absorbs moisture, it gets darker....amber....brown.

Black colored fluid is from Aluminum oxide from heating and cooling of aluminum brake components-calipers,cylinders, valves.

It is always a good idea to "Burp" your system occasionally. That means to bleed
a couple of small squirts, even if the brakes seem fine. It eliminates old contaminated fluid. 


Miz


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## rfhendrix (Jan 24, 2011)

Don't forget plywood as an option for your battery boxes and mounting surface for acessories. It electrically isolates, it is easy to work with and if you paint it black no one will notice.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Right. When everyone hears "Composite", they think... Carbon-fiber and epoxy. Well, Plywood is one of the original composites. Another is paper and shellac. (They even made airplane drop tanks from molded paper, glue and shellac.)

To add to R.F.'s post, Plywood becomes even more impressive when sealed properly. After fabricating, it needs sealed with Poly Urethane Spar Varnish. 3-4 coats is best. Then after installation, it will paint easily and really blend in. The poly/spar varnish is acid resistant too.

After my battery boxes were lined, I sealed/calked the seams and then coated them inside with "Gripper". A sticky, thick rubberized type of primer sold almost everywhere. It even sticks to glass.....comes in grey and white. They are so water tight that I have to install drains in them.

Miz


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

*Removing stubborn bolts:*

How many of you have broken off a bolt? How many of you have broken off a tap? It is one of the first experiences a "Noob" mechanic makes. It is also one of the hardest to NOT do(or learn to not do). 

Here are a couple of things I have learned:

1. When drilling a center hole for a E/Z out, try to keep the hole diameter small as you can. To help stop swelling the bolt out into the threads.

2. Having said that, I do not use the "twisted" style E/Z outs on small bolts, they DO swell the bolts outwards if they are really stuck badly. I like the square/non twisted/tapered style with sharp corners. (on small bolts- 3/8" and smaller),

3. Also, after drilling the hole, before putting in the E/Z out, apply heat with a MAP gas torch *around* the stuck bolt. As hot as will not kill anything. Sub-red if the piece can stand it...Then gently tap in the E/Z out and gently turn it.

4. If you are a welder (notice I didnt say "can weld") you can choose a nut 2 or 3 sizes larger than the bolt, lay it over the bolt hole and weld it to the bolt stub. Give it 2-3 minutes to cool and the surround metal to expand and turn it out. Sometimes you can build up the bolt with spot welds to stick above the deck and allow a better nut weld. (This is a good way to get a broken tap out......)

(Sorry to be so wordy..lol)

Miz


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## gravelydude (Sep 6, 2008)

Miz,

I would add to the use of EZ outs that using a left handed drill bit instead of the normal right handed drill bit will sometimes loosen the stuck fastener. Using a right handed bit only tightens it more.

JACK


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## etischer (Jun 16, 2008)

Here's a way to double your leverage by interlocking two wrenches. It keeps your knuckles from getting busted since you need less than half the force. It also gives your palm a nice wide surface to push on.


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## DavidDymaxion (Dec 1, 2008)

Great idea for a thread!

Start loosening tough nuts and bolts with liquid wrench or WD-40 days before the repair, squirt some on each day.

Degrease the engine bay before a major repair.


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## gsmith191145 (May 1, 2011)

DavidDymaxion said:


> Great idea for a thread!
> 
> Start loosening tough nuts and bolts with liquid wrench or WD-40 days before the repair, squirt some on each day.
> 
> Degrease the engine bay before a major repair.


You ever try PB Nut Buster? It is great for those stubborn bolts and nuts.


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## gsmith191145 (May 1, 2011)

I have found that on board battery chargers without charge contactors have a nasty habit of back feeding energy from your batteries. 

Not all chargers have a charge contactor to stop the flow of electricity to and from the batteries. 

I recently changed chargers from a lester charger to an Elcon. I ohm tested my elcon charger and it was pulling several ohms.(which means it is drawing current when not charging.)

Long story short. I installed a contactor with a 120Volt coil and stopped the power leakage. 










I broke one leg of the 120 volt power for the contactor.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

*High current cables:*

When making high current cables, I always get my cable stock from the local welding supply. They are nicely flexable and cheaper than from an auto supply store. 


Absolutely *NO* bolt-on ends. They are just too high resistance and end up making inductive heat (wasting useful current).

Whether you use the standard automotive tapered top post, the threaded stud or simply a bolt on tab, The cable end must be secured tightly. 

Buy a crimper. $25.00 from several sources. 

Full the lug cavity with flux, insert the skived cable, crimp soundly (but dont kill it). Hold the crimp in a vise with the cable end up. Apply heat, solder and completely fill the socket. Allow to cool and shrink sleeve it, Black or red according to polarity. 

If you are attaching to a rather small stud (1/4" or 5/16") solder an older penny to the bottom and redrill the hole. It gives better heat transfer and thermal mass. In high amperage systems, that penny can be replaced with a small strip of copper bar. Let it project as far as you can without getting in the way, to provide more cooling surface. (Especially good for your contactors). 

I use 1/0 size cable for short runs to 1' in length. 2/0 for up to 3' and 4/0 for longer. (on my 120VDC-650 amp system.)

Please feel free to add or correct any of my posts, They are what works for me. I am open to steal any better ideas....Miz


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

*A good test for a well coordinated system:*

A good system check for your car is to drive it hard for 10 minutes minimum. Then stop. Open up the battery and electrical areas. Start at battery NEG - terminal, shoot it with an infrared thermometer gun, record the reading. Then go through the battery packs (every terminal and connection), contactor fuses, switches, controller, motor...until you get back to where you started. 

Yes, do the middle of the cables too , but be fast about it. The faster, the more accurate. Make a work sheet before you start.

Study the readings. It will tell you if you have any problems with your system. 

1-add them up, divide by number of readings gives average mean temperature.

2-Group the readings. near the average, above average and below average.

3-How many hot ones do you have? Solve these first. Heat sink connections, larger cable...Etc.

4-How many cooler ones do you have? (Sounds funny but there is some to be learned here also.) Can any ideas here be applied to the hot ones?

Work to reduce the heat. It is free current!!!

Miz

PS: In the steel mills, heavy conductors are sometimes water cooled....Just a random thought.


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## nxp (Apr 6, 2011)

On bolts and nuts

If you ever have a stud that's jammed in it's hole you can take it out easily by threading two nuts onto it and jamming them tight against each other. Then unscrew it with the lower nut.

If you have a threaded connection that can't take much torque (and from what I read the headway cells are a great example) don't simply use a bolt. Use a slightly longer bolt with a nut, thread the nut all the way to the bolt's head and screw the bolt lightly into the hole/connection. Then take two wrenches (or a wrench and allen key if the bolt is allen-head) and with one you keep the bolt from rotating and with the other you tighten the nut onto the connection. Nearly no torque is applied onto the delicate part.



etischer said:


> Here's a way to double your leverage by interlocking two wrenches. It keeps your knuckles from getting busted since you need less than half the force. It also gives your palm a nice wide surface to push on.


Always do that with CHEAP wrenches. It can slightly distort the ring and dent the open end where they meet - and you don't want that on your best tools.



mjcrow said:


> A quick tip I was taught as a first year apprentice mechanic (many years ago). A single drop of clean engine oil on bolt threads before installation will substantially reduce the chance of corrosion and should allow easy removal of bolts 10-20 years later.


If you're assembling stuff that will see high temperatures (over 150*C) replace the drop of engine oil with a tiny dab of copper paste along the threads. Even when the oil in the paste burns, the copper prevents the bolt from seizing.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

nxp said:


> If you're assembling stuff that will see high temperatures (over 150*C) replace the drop of engine oil with a tiny dab of copper paste along the threads. Even when the oil in the paste burns, the copper prevents the bolt from seizing.


In a pinch you can also use white Lithium grease if copper anti-seize isn't at hand. It isn't as good, but works well enough that I used it on aircooled Bug spark plug threads for years without a problem. You need copper anti-seize for the exhaust bolts though.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

*Sealants*

When using Teflon based thread Tape, always wrap the tape in the direction you will turn the fitting. Almost always clockwise (to the right). It prevents the tape from unwrapping and leaking. Just hold the tape to the threads and turn the fitting like you are installing it. 

When installing fittings in a cast housing, either aluminum-brass-plastic or cast iron, NEVER use teflon tape. It decreases the friction to install and you may crack the cast housing. Always use a good paste type sealer.

I like the natural gas (yellow) type sealers because they are a little more resistant to chemicals than plain old white (water type) sealers.

Miz


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## kek_63 (Apr 20, 2008)

*Re: Removing stubborn bolts:*



mizlplix said:


> How many of you have broken off a bolt? How many of you have broken off a tap? It is one of the first experiences a "Noob" mechanic makes. It is also one of the hardest to NOT do(or learn to not do).
> 
> ..................................................................................................
> 
> ...


Miz, 
You forgot the most important step -

Immediately after breaking the bolt, tap etc - you must set down all tools and proceed to the nearest refrigerator, open your favorite beverage, sit down in a comfortable chair and contemplate (for at least 20 minutes) the best possible plan of attack on the broken fastener, tap, etc.

Leaving out this step and rushing headlong into the repair will often add more broken parts and tools (and possibly skin and bones) to the original one.

Later,
Keith


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: Removing stubborn bolts:*



mizlplix said:


> How many of you have broken off a bolt? How many of you have broken off a tap? It is one of the first experiences a "Noob" mechanic makes. It is also one of the hardest to NOT do(or learn to not do).
> 
> Here are a couple of things I have learned:
> 
> ...


If you place a washer over the broken bolt, one that is the same size as the bolt, before welding a nut over it it will save you from accidently welding the broken bolt to the metal it is in.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Lol, you guys R awesome! As many of studs I have weld / extracted, I never though of a washer. 

Or an engineering period. 

Thx for the response. Miz


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## kek_63 (Apr 20, 2008)

During my apprenticeship, my service manager _*insisted*_ that we "cool off" before attempting repairs to twisted off bolts. We were working for a used car dealer here in the rust-belt so had plenty of opportunities.

Later,
Keith


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## gsmith191145 (May 1, 2011)

For us lead acid battery guys.

When you do the annual cleaning of your batteries sprinkle baking soda on top of the batteries and then pour bottled water over the baking soda. 

If you are filling you batteries and you splash the acid on yourself pour Pepsi cola on the infected areas. Believe me you will thank me later.


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## gsmith191145 (May 1, 2011)

For any of the drag racers out there. I found that a good way to make a good and sticky tire is to put them in a trash bag and spray them with bleach and let them set. 

It will send a large cloud of smoke in the air also.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

*Never push on a wrench.....*

It is an old saying. As old as the very first wrench in fact. 

When you pull:

Your muscles are stronger than pushing.
You have better control
You have better "feel" of what is happening.




When you push:
You have little control, on or off
Your muscles are weaker in that direction
You can't stop easily when you feel it start to turn



Always pull on the wrench. You will have less injuries, trust me.

Miz


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## alexcrouse (Mar 16, 2009)

PB Blaster.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

*Fitting parts*

One of the first things a professional mechanic learns is that nothing is really usable out-of-the-box. Some of you might take exception to that statement, but it is 95% true. Very few things are good-to-go as unboxed.

Take my recent rear axle gear change out as an example. The new gear set needed deburring. That means to use a flat file (or common knife sharpening stone for hard steel) and your finger tips and "verify" the flat surfaces on all critical mating spots. Just rub it enough to see where the dings and dimples are and remove them. Be especially careful around bolt holes and edges. You will be surprised at how many you will find...

In some cases, it is necessary to use a felt pen or Dychem bluing to color the surface before the deburring procedure. Any shiny spots are suspect and a second application of blue and deburring is required in the critical places like the ring gear to carrier mounting surface. Especially critical sealing surfaces can be checked with a file then blued, then just rubbed together to see how they really mate. 

A good way to verify "flat" on a critical part is to place an old glass window pane on a relatively flat surface, the thicker the glass the better. Lay a piece of 600-1000 grit emeory paper on it and flood it with solvent. Carefully rub the part back and forth on it. Rotating it to change directions ever so often. It is scary how flat you can get things this way. 

Before assembly, a careful breaking of square or sharp edges is necessary to prevent damage to seals and gaskets (especially in cylinder bore edges)

Miz


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## TomA (Mar 26, 2009)

Three fastener removal tricks from 35 years of working on old cars in the rust belt:

1. 50/50 Acetone and ATF mix. This is my favorite general purpose penetrant. I mix a few ounces in a glass cup with a paintbrush and use it up. It takes some effort to mix into an emulsion. I suppose you could store it in metal or glass, but why bother? I dispense with a brush, eyedropper or syringe. Every 12 hours for two days works wonders...

2. A real old-timer trick is flowing wax into hot threads. Heat the joint, and flow paraffin into the threads. Doesn't work if the head of the bolt is the stuck part (you must be able to get wax directly to the engaged threads) and this also works best when you immediately try to break the threads apart hot. Not so good horizontally. Miserable from below. I use this technique only for backing out studs that won't move any other way. Its weird, involved, and hairy to do without burning something, like yourself, but it works.

3. CRC Freeze Off. This is a relatively new thing, and it works:

http://www.crcindustries.com/hd/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05002

Kind of hard to find, and you wind up using nearly the whole can for just one fastener, (can take a minute of spraying to work) but in the right situation, that's cheap if it does the job... 

TomA


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## TomA (Mar 26, 2009)

Sometimes I think I could write a book about gluing things together. I have at least 25 different adhesives in my cabinet- some in the refrigerator.

Anyway, the lesson from just today's epoxy project is surface preparation. I reattached 4 metal clips that were originally pressed onto the plastic driver's door panel of my Caprice. (actually, I had to reattach 3 and make a 4th out of polycarbonate because one had gone missing, but the adhesive procedure was the same...) The clips hold the plastic door panel retainer spikes, which then grip into holes in metal door skin, holding the panel on. The clips had been broken off from the panel plastic, and had once been glued back on by someone, who had the right idea, (JB weld, looks like,) but poor technique. I see that all the time- so often that I thought its worth a primer on gluing with epoxy here- and its been on my mind as I worked today.

The performance of _any_ adhesive is critically dependent on how the glue joint is prepared. Even top-quality epoxy will not ultimately stick to smooth plastic. I was able to pull the old epoxy off the door panel plastic with my fingers, and pick it off the unprepped metal clips with a screwdriver. The clips probably had an oil or scale of some kind on them, because they didn't hold the epoxy, either. 

The proper procedure for epoxy adhesives is:

Cross-hatch the plastic with a scoring blade. You can use 36 grit sandpaper, but the deeper cross-hatching with a tool gives a much better tooth to the material. This step is absolutely essential to gluing plastics.

Cross-hatch the metal clips with a small file. Again, you could use coarse sandpaper, but I don't like the sanding dust, and I have better control and make deeper gouges with the file. File through and remove any plated layer, like black phosphate on clips or cadmium or zinc on plated parts.

Wipe down the surfaces with a cleaning solvent, from lacquer thinner (best) to acetone (good) or alcohol (acceptable) depending on what your material can stand and what you have.

Apply epoxy to both surfaces. Work it into the hatching, that's where the adherent bond is best. Then put the pieces together. Clamp, jig or hold (with fast-set epoxies) until cured.

Its a lot of basic stuff, but without a rough surface, even a very expensive and strong epoxy will peel off and fail, especially with plastics.

TomA


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## gsmith191145 (May 1, 2011)

In a pinch, ever ran out of Diesel with no fuel station in site? Corn oil out of the local cooking store will get you down the road without killing your engine.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

*Advanced Broken stud/bolt removal*

Toma...excellent on the adhesives! They are getting more and more useful.


OK, Heres one I invented:

With a bolt broken off 1"-2" down a hole, it is hard to work with. Many times they are kinda loose and just need turned a little.

So, take a welding electrode (rod) and wrap it with masking tape (paper based tape). 2-3 layers. 

Set the welder for normal welding for 1/4" plate. Carefully insert it down the hole close to the bolt. Tap the rod against the bolt and pull back some to start the arc. Immediately, stick it into the bolt to stop the arc. Unclip the rod from the rod holder. 

Allow to cool some and unscrew it from the hole. 

It should look like this:









The layers of tape are to keep the rod centered in the hole and not arc against the sides.... 

I have removed 5-6 this way over the years.

The pictured one was 3" down the bore.......

Miz


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## sonicj (Mar 17, 2010)

thats a good one mizlplix. i have a motor with 4 sheared bolts i think i'll try this on!


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

OK, For precision work, slip the rod down the hole without the holder gripping it. Find the bolt depth. Pull the rod back maybe 1/4" or so, clip on the holder. Then tap the bolt and stick it immediately. No hood required. Wear gloves though.

I've done 3/8" and up sizes. nothing smaller....

On a loose bolt, I guess a left-hand drill bit wrapped in tape would work too, but left handed bits are rare and I usually wedge them up and break them so deep down in a hole. The sheared surface is usually not too even or flat.

Luck to you, Miz


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Things seem to be slowing down. Surely someone has a few tricks they might share?



OK, When unhooking things to do repairs, even if it is wiring, hoses or almost anything, a common piece of telephone cable is handy.

Get a 8" piece of the big multi stranded type. You know, the one where there are 10-20 wires in the cable. They are all different colors/stripes Etc. 

Strip it to get the individual wires. Then use them as a match code. Cut one wire into 2- 4" pieces and tie one to a hose and the matching piece to the fitting where you unhooked it from.

When you go to reassemble things, you just match up the wires by color and stripe. No tape, labels or felt pen marks to lose or erase.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

Everyone has heard of "water wetter"? It was intended to break down the meniscus tension of water thereby allowing water to somehow adhere tighter to the metal and transfer heat better. It does help. But not that much. It will not compensate for a badly designed system or cover up some other fatal flaw.

It is not cost effective either..........

Until now. 

Common dish washing detergent has the same chemicals to do the same thing. I use any citrus based liquid dish soap. 1 tsp per gallon of water/coolant. The "in-the-know" race teams have known this for years.

Miz


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## TomA (Mar 26, 2009)

OK, these two are ice tricks, but we all drive 'em so why not...

I put a relatively big neodymium button magnet on the end of my crank case drain plug with a drop of JB weld just to hold it there while screwing the plug in and out. Its always got a little forest of shavings and filings on it when I change the oil. If my transmission had a similar plug I would do that, too. Ditto a rear drive axle. Cheap insurance, and it really does catch ferrous bits.

I also put between 9 and 11 or so 1/8" x 1/2" x 1" rectangular neodymium magnets around the circumference of my oil filters, secured by a wrap of foil tape. that catches all the metal in the filter. I cut one open once to see, and it was surprisingly effective. Its the same thing as a "filter mag" you can buy, but much cheaper, and I can put the magnets on any diameter filter I want.

TomA


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## rfhendrix (Jan 24, 2011)

To lock a nut on a bolt after it is tightened where you want it. Crimp the exposed threads as close to the nut as possible with a pair of wire cutters or vice grips. If there is only one or two threads exposed you can round it off with a hammer until it looks like a rivet. The nut ain't coming off.


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## rfhendrix (Jan 24, 2011)

When cleaning brushes used for oil based paint you can use baby oil mixed with Dawn detergent. WD40 or other light oils work also. This will also clean your hands if the paint hasn't dried. Yeah I know, I'm a hick from Tennessee.


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

I have already used some of the things I have read on this thread. Like the magnets.


If you do not have any battery protective spray handy, you can use any old type of spray paint. It works well and dries nicely. Almost anything works that cuts off the oxygen that promotes the corrosion....(AND you can color coordinate now too!)

Miz


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## GizmoEV (Nov 28, 2009)

Here is a post which is worth reading about installing seals. Thanks Miz.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=317389&postcount=558


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