# BMW 318 EV Conversion



## chamilun (Jun 17, 2008)

im through half of your steps. I plan to detail the motor mount build and battery box build because very few write-ups go over this thoroughly.

good luck!


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

I'd love to see more information about your adapter plate. I'm working on a 3-series conversion as well. I'm stuck in the waiting for parts (zilla and Warp 9 motor on order). To avoid having another car just taking up space I've put off buying the donor car until the zilla is closer to ariving. I did however pick up a 5 speed trans so I can start making the adapter plate.

I'm planning a clutch design for mine. I'd like some dimensions from the ICE engine. You wouldn't happen to still have that around?


----------



## Schmism (Aug 16, 2008)

do all the manual trans for the E36 series come with the same bolt pattern even for the I6 vs the 4 cylinder 318?

(i currently own 3 myself, 94 E36, 94 E34, 2000 540i sport 6spd)

how have you made out with the wiring in these cars? the electrical control systems in them are some of the most complex ive ever delt with (for early 90's cars at least)


----------



## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

I see you have Quick Charger listed. I made same mistake at first.

If you can still return it, do some online research and compare with Zivan NG3 or others that don't weigh a ton due to transformer.

Quick Charger is not suitable for onboard charger, too heavy and requires external cooling, plus their quality is questionable for 144v units. I think they were designed for 96v max, but company "stretched their limits". 

Hope this helps.


----------



## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

Also, I see you were looking for springs. Consider http://www.ground-control-store.com/index.php

I love how their Coilover Kit fit into my Miata, ride height is just where I want it and its adjustable too.

When you order, call them and explain additional weight, so they can calculate spring rates for your new curb weight. The kit was $400 for my car, plus I bought shocks on Ebay separately.

Hope this helps.


----------



## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

rather than self-machine, you can send the bell housing to CanEV.com and they will do it.... unless they already have a template.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Dimitri,

Thanks for the link. I'll be giving them a call this afternoon.

Ben




dimitri said:


> Also, I see you were looking for springs. Consider http://www.ground-control-store.com/index.php


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I haven't gotten that far yet. I have removed the engine harness and left some service wire to tap into when I go to locate the wiring that I will need. I plan to rig up a signal to drive the stock tach at some point and since I don't have the stock ECO it will be a signal generator that's a square wave signal, 35% duty cycle, that indicates RPM (RPM = freq x 20). That's the same signal that the DME sends to the instrument cluster.


Ben




Schmism said:


> do all the manual trans for the E36 series come with the same bolt pattern even for the I6 vs the 4 cylinder 318?
> 
> (i currently own 3 myself, 94 E36, 94 E34, 2000 540i sport 6spd)
> 
> how have you made out with the wiring in these cars? the electrical control systems in them are some of the most complex ive ever delt with (for early 90's cars at least)


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

ICE is long gone, sorry. I could take some measurements from my adapter plate when I get it back. I wonder if I can find a large format flat bed scanner and just scan it for you.... HMM wouldnt it be nice to have an online database for these 


Ben



Thaniel said:


> I'd love to see more information about your adapter plate. I'm working on a 3-series conversion as well. I'm stuck in the waiting for parts (zilla and Warp 9 motor on order). To avoid having another car just taking up space I've put off buying the donor car until the zilla is closer to ariving. I did however pick up a 5 speed trans so I can start making the adapter plate.
> 
> I'm planning a clutch design for mine. I'd like some dimensions from the ICE engine. You wouldn't happen to still have that around?


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> ICE is long gone, sorry. I could take some measurements from my adapter plate when I get it back. I wonder if I can find a large format flat bed scanner and just scan it for you.... HMM wouldnt it be nice to have an online database for these
> 
> 
> Ben


Anything you could supply would be great. No need to reinvent the wheel if I don't have to  I did bring home a 5 speed transmission yesterday. So I will have one side to work from.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Got several of the battery cables made the other night, had to get some practice with the hammer crimper. I used my band saw to cut the wire, it left a very nice cut.

I got my adapter plate back today all trimmed but it's a bit rough. Guess I clean it up a bit to make it more presentable. I picked up an engine hoist on sale today as the one I usually borrow wasn't available, luckily it was on sale.



It's progress I guess,

Ben in SC


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> Got several of the battery cables made the other night, had to get some practice with the hammer crimper. I used my band saw to cut the wire, it left a very nice cut.
> 
> I got my adapter plate back today all trimmed but it's a bit rough. Guess I clean it up a bit to make it more presentable. I picked up an engine hoist on sale today as the one I usually borrow wasn't available, luckily it was on sale.
> 
> ...


All sounds good. Where are the pics and diagrams  Congrats on the progress.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Yeah, I need to get some pics up  

Plan to get some measurements for you tonight.


Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I reinstalled my transmission last night but not before pressure washing all of the road grime off of it. I did this because it looks easier to install the motor by itself instead of trying to install the motor and tranny as one unit.

Before putting the tranny back in I did a final bolt up test of my adapter plate and motor coupler to make sure that all of my hole were aligned properly. Since I'm using an adapter kit from EVA It has built in alignment pins which makes it almost fool proof. So far everything has turned out as expected with the mounting plate and coupler but I still need to complete the motor ring mount so that it ties into the cars mount points.



Here's a few pictures, I'm still working on some measurements for you.
























Ben in SC


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

looks good Ben,, is that the plate you had made or did you make it?

Brian


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Well, its a plate that comes in the kit from EVA, I just traced my bellhousing and then had it cut. It was cut on a bandsaw so it looks a little rough around the edge. I've smoothed it a bit since that pic with my angle grinder.

I have the motor on the engine hoist ready to be installed tomorrow. Then I can figure out the final attachment of the rear ring mount.



Ben


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> Well, its a plate that comes in the kit from EVA, I just traced my bellhousing and then had it cut. It was cut on a bandsaw so it looks a little rough around the edge. I've smoothed it a bit since that pic with my angle grinder.
> 
> I have the motor on the engine hoist ready to be installed tomorrow. Then I can figure out the final attachment of the rear ring mount.
> 
> ...


So you had to cut the profile to match the bell housing? What did it look like when you go it?

Something I'm thinking about is relocating the trans farther back. Looking at the cars design it appears the ICE's motor location was set by the auto trans which is 9" longer. Might be possible to move the electric motor and trans rearward for more space under the hood (and use an auto trans driveshaft maybe). Does that look possible. May not be worth the work but something to think about.


----------



## chamilun (Jun 17, 2008)

Ben (Teletmania)
did you have a hard time getting the long spacer pieces that hold the adapter assembly off? its the two pieces that you remove and later replace with shorter ones.

im having an impossible time removing them.

speaking of cutting the aluminum, I used a band saw with the metal blade. worked very well. no vibration, and edge looks pretty good. one reason to not use a shop is not matter how hard you try, youll have to remove a bit here in there (read: so axles dont hit...)


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Chamilun,

My pins came right out (the long ones) using the steel dowel pin that was in the kit. I reassembled mine several times with the long pins to check and recheck the alignment of my holes etc.


Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Thaniel said:


> So you had to cut the profile to match the bell housing? What did it look like when you go it?
> 
> Something I'm thinking about is relocating the trans farther back. Looking at the cars design it appears the ICE's motor location was set by the auto trans which is 9" longer. Might be possible to move the electric motor and trans rearward for more space under the hood (and use an auto trans driveshaft maybe). Does that look possible. May not be worth the work but something to think about.


Thaniel,

The plate was just 18x18 aluminum plate when I got it. My bell housing end right at the firewall and it doesnt look like it could go back very much if any. Looking at space available under the hood I can tell you that space is surprisingly cramped because of the front "rails" that BMW uses to hold the bumper etc. You can just fit two Trojans between them side to side since its just over 26" wide.

I should have my motor in tomorrow and will post some pics for you.


Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Motor in, rear mount built and bolted up. Of course I couldnt resist checking the adapter alignment etc by running the motor on 12V to see the rear wheels turn   

Now to get the batteries in, I should make some progress on that tomorrow night. I still have a few old ICE brackets to remove in order to mount the front batt box.

ONWARD!
Ben in SC


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

Sounds like your making progress. Any pics of the motor installed?


----------



## alt35000 (Sep 2, 2008)

I just started to read this site and found your conversion. I have a '95 318i and it's about ready to connect motor to transmission. I'm using the WarP 9 with the 1K Zilla. I know it's a hassel but we would all like to see some more pics. Information sharing is very important to us all learning how to do this. I'll take some shots tonight of mine and get them up on this site as soon as I can. After the pics are here, I'd like some comments on how I plan to make the connection. I've not seen anything like what I have.
Good luck.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Guys, I thought I had posted pics of the motor mounted! I'll repost (or post, whatever) tonight. Incidentally I did get the front box mounted and have batteries sitting in there (because I was to tired to pull them back out). I made a set of hinges for my control board and plan to get it installed tonight.

I originally didn't have a breaker in my design but I found a good deal on one the other day ($65shipped) so I'll now have a manual disconnect cable ran into the pass compartment for emergency stop and maintenance disconnect. I need to get motivated to finish the rear battery tray and run the cables.

Ben

Ben


----------



## dimitri (May 16, 2008)

> I need to get motivated


So I guess less than $4 gas is no longer a motivation for you?


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

alt35000 said:


> I just started to read this site and found your conversion. I have a '95 318i and it's about ready to connect motor to transmission. I'm using the WarP 9 with the 1K Zilla. I know it's a hassel but we would all like to see some more pics. Information sharing is very important to us all learning how to do this. I'll take some shots tonight of mine and get them up on this site as soon as I can. After the pics are here, I'd like some comments on how I plan to make the connection. I've not seen anything like what I have.
> Good luck.


Sounds a lot like what I'm planning. However I'm still waiting on delivery of the Warp 9 and zilla. Here's my thread http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/and-so-begins-17727p2.html

I'd definately like to coordinate information with everyone. Why reinvent the wheel or uh....electric BMW.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

And here are a few pictures of the motor installed. I've been redoing my battery boxes to split up the weight a little better so this is the first chance I've had to pull the pics off the camera.




















I made a new box/tray to go over the engine to hold three batteries and plan to change that front box that's in this picture to hold three instead of two and also turn them 90 degrees. There's not a lot of room between the front "rails" in the 3 series, you only have 27" between them.

Ben


PS, once I have it all laid out I plan to paint everything so pay no attention to the mess


----------



## chamilun (Jun 17, 2008)

where did you find the clamps? I went to 4 places to find them and came up empty

nice pics


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I had the rear clamp made by a guy on the EVDL list. I'll get his contact info for you. The clamp cost me around $30 shipped. I then added the "arms" and gusseted them for strength. Sure beats $100 from the online sources.


Ben






chamilun said:


> where did you find the clamps? I went to 4 places to find them and came up empty
> 
> nice pics


----------



## chamilun (Jun 17, 2008)

thanks,

my weekend project is to get the motor mounts done. if I have issues, Ill order the clamps, because that seems like the logical way to go.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

The clamp I used is made from 1/4" and its 9.25" to 9.30" in diameter. I used some closed cell rubber as a gasket between the ring and motor.

Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I had my ring made by Roger Heuckeroth, I met him over on the EVDL list and he can be reached at the following email address:

rheuckeroth -AT- hvc.rr.com


Ben





chamilun said:


> where did you find the clamps? I went to 4 places to find them and came up empty
> 
> nice pics


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I worked last night, so late in fact that I can barely keep my eyes open at work, rebuilding my front battery tray to allow for 6 batteries. Three over the motor and three in front but down low. I plan to place my control board over the front set of three batteries and have a 12x12 enclosure for all of my electronics.

In the box I will have:
2 Contractors
1 main fuse
1 main breaker,
1 KSI relay
1 EVVIC Board

For those of you who don't know what an EVVIC is take a look at the manual: http://www.ev-supply.com/products.php 

The EVVIC allows the use of many safety features and incorporates them into one box for easy connection. The contactors will only be enabled after the key has been turned to start and the parking brake is off. I will also have a few LED indicators in the instrument cluster. The EVVIC does many more things like:

Provide easy hookup for an emergency stop button
Inputs for clutch switch, brake switch and parking brake switch
Inputs from motor thermal sensor
Control for external charger

All of this is provided in a small package. I don't have it hooked up yet but should in a few days.



Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Here are the pics from last night (for anyone looking...) I'm taking the night off so I can pull an all-nighter tomorrow night.


Pics of the new front trays:




















Now I need to change the rear battery try to hold only six but that should be a little easier. I might go ahead and wire everything up with the front six at 72V to see how it works 


Ben


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

Looking good. Looks like you still have your PCM (or ecu depending on what you want to call it). you can pull that and ditch it and the associated wiring. It does nothing for you but clutter up the place. 

On on my last 3 seriec project (gas powered) I moved the check connector from the right strut tower to the fuse box to clean up the wiring mess too. It's only good for checking the ABS sytems after you pull the BMW motor. Just a thought.

What are your plans for RPM sensing on the motor?


----------



## Mone (Sep 12, 2008)

Ben,

Looking good. What kind of performace are you looking to get out of those Trojans? I'm looking at some different batteries and those Trojans were on my initial list. Why'd you chose them? Pros? Cons? Whats your take?


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Thaniel said:


> Looking good. Looks like you still have your PCM (or ecu depending on what you want to call it). you can pull that and ditch it and the associated wiring. It does nothing for you but clutter up the place.
> 
> On on my last 3 seriec project (gas powered) I moved the check connector from the right strut tower to the fuse box to clean up the wiring mess too. It's only good for checking the ABS sytems after you pull the BMW motor. Just a thought.
> 
> What are your plans for RPM sensing on the motor?



Thaniel,

I missed these questions so pardon my late responses. I haven't decided on the RPM sensing just yet but it will likely have to be a hall effect sensor mounted on the output shaft of the motor. As always if you have a suggestions PLEASE SHARE!   

On the ECU, I have since cleaned up all unneeded wiring to clean things up .

Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Mone said:


> Ben,
> 
> Looking good. What kind of performace are you looking to get out of those Trojans? I'm looking at some different batteries and those Trojans were on my initial list. Why'd you chose them? Pros? Cons? Whats your take?



Mone,

I went with the 12 T1275's to get my 144V pack voltage. I chose this voltage because it will give me a little better get up and go. I used 12 12V as apposed to 18 8V or even more 6v because of the available space in the 3 series. With this pack I should be able to reach my 35 mile range. The biggest con is that these batteries are HUGE. It takes some planning to fit even 12 in the car and maintain weight distribution and still have some trunk space.



Ben


----------



## brent.massey (Jul 23, 2008)

Lookin perty in there!


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

brent.massey said:


> Lookin perty in there!



Thanks! The only reason for posting here is to hopefully be able to help someone in the future who may convert this same car. 


Heres an update:

I have the rear batteries in, cables ran, power brake pump/tank/switch in, power steering pump in and all drive controls. I didnt get to these items this weekend like I had planned so I'm a little behind schedule now.

1. Wire in PB Pump
2. Wire in PS Pump
3. Install charger
4. Install Paktrakr




And for this interested here are a few pics:






















Thanks for looking...

Ben in SC


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

A few more:






















Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Now if I could only get my A/C compressor to fit next to the motor I would just run it off of the tailshaft instead of an aux motor for now. I gotta have A/C in SC even in Sept/Oct.


Ben


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

Ben looks awesome man!!! Couple questions,, why did you lay out the batteries in the rear the way you did? You could have made the wires much shorter? Also can't really tell but do you have washers under the nuts on the batteries? Not a bad idea and easy to do. It will help spread the presure evenly. Still looking great!!!! how son till ya run it???

Brian


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I wanted to be able to come out of the rear group in the center, plus I had 30 feet of each color AND IT WAS FREE 

I have lock washers under the nuts on the batteries.

I hope to finish up wiring in the pumps this evening and I guess I'll drive it without the hood, lights and bumper. I still have a lot of cosmetic work to do even after the EV conversion is done. Cant go around driving a trashed BMW  

Ben


PS, thanks for posting. I was beginning to wonder if anyone was even watching.




rctous said:


> Ben looks awesome man!!! Couple questions,, why did you lay out the batteries in the rear the way you did? You could have made the wires much shorter? Also can't really tell but do you have washers under the nuts on the batteries? Not a bad idea and easy to do. It will help spread the presure evenly. Still looking great!!!! how son till ya run it???
> 
> Brian


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

so have ya ran it yet? looks like its ready to spin???

Brian


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Oh I ran it on 72Vbefore cutting out the trunk. It hasn't been out of the shop since hooking up the other half of the pack. When I did the test run I couldn't run the DC/DC because the pack voltage was to low. Now I can run the car/pumps etc properly. I might get it out this evening depending on how early my wife lets me go out to the shop 


Ben


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

well let us know if you do are the batteries charged?

Brian


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> PS, thanks for posting. I was beginning to wonder if anyone was even watching.


Oh I'm watching. Very Jelous too. It is looking very good. I wish I were as far as you are.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

rctous said:


> well let us know if you do are the batteries charged?
> 
> Brian



No driving last night as I didn't get to the shop until late. I did get everything but the charger wired in, I still need to run my male plug to the rear and install under the gas cap 


I'm a little slower than most of you, kids and homework take up a lot of time!



Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Well, As it was all coming together I had a small, or major, set back tonight. While working on my jerky reverse my coupler became disconnected from my taper lock adapter. Looking through the inspection hole I can see the two pieces separated with the bolts all backed out. 

I really don't see how this happened but I guess I'll be taking everything back apart this weekend and separating the motor/tranny to put it back together with plenty of locktight.

I was so ready for a weekend of driving.


Ben in SC


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> Well, As it was all coming together I had a small, or major, set back tonight. While working on my jerky reverse my coupler became disconnected from my taper lock adapter. Looking through the inspection hole I can see the two pieces separated with the bolts all backed out.
> 
> I really don't see how this happened but I guess I'll be taking everything back apart this weekend and separating the motor/tranny to put it back together with plenty of locktight.
> 
> ...


Well better to have it happen now then when you are out on the highway. What taperlock adapter are you using?


----------



## Bottomfeeder (Jun 13, 2008)

Perhaps you should put some Loc-tite on the bolts to keep them in place. It works wonders.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Its the adapter system as sold by EVA. I'm taking it all apart tonight, I needed to paint my battery rack anyways. Maybe I'll be on the road by Sat.


Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Bottomfeeder said:


> Perhaps you should put some Loc-tite on the bolts to keep them in place. It works wonders.



No way! I'm glad that you mentioned that. 

I have some blue that I just picked up. It was obvious when looking through the inspection port that I had forgotten to put the locktite on.

Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

All back together and working even better than before. It was a busy weekend full of late nights and tired legs but I'm glad it's all done. And, the most important part, I used plenty of lock-tite!


Now to get back to work on getting the interior back together.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

And here is a picture of the whole car. I realized that I haven't posted one yet. The car needs a good cleaning and detail now that it's been in the shop for a few months collecting dust from welding, grinding, cursing etc!











I played around some with 4.7kohm, 3.3kohm and 1kohm resistors in parallel with the pot box and got some VERY good results with smoothing out the high power surge when in reverse. I'll be wiring this in wirh a relay as soon as I locate either the reverse switch in the tranny or I'll just use the back up lights. Whichever is easiest.


Ben


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

Ben it looks awesome so you only are using the resistors when in reverse from the sounds of it? Your forward movement isn't as jerky huh?

Brian


PS NICE RACK


of planes that is


----------



## notnull (Jul 30, 2008)

Nice work on the resistors. I took my PB-6 apart thinking I might be able to just replace the pot with one that was logarithmic. I haven't found a substitute yet, so I am hoping I can tune the logisystems controller to be reasonably smooth in forward motion and then I would be happy to parallel in a resistor in reverse. Still about two weeks away on my Miata. I did actually get the motor installed and turn it over with a 12V. 

I wonder how many people in this forum have an R/C background. I have been flying for over ten years and converted my fleet to electric many years ago. This led me into the electric bicycle conversion that I use everyday, which has pushed me into the electric car conversion. Actually, another RC guy that Brian might know, Gary Goodrum had a ton of great information on electric bicycle conversions in a different forum.

Anyway, enough post hijacking. Nice build. Looking forward to hearing how the throttle turns out.

Steve


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

Ya I have known Gary for many years , (mainly by phone and e-mail )we worked together ,from a distance ,for a while when we first came out with the Tanic packs years ago,, don't talk to him much any more. He alwas had a great wealth of knowledge

Brian


----------



## KiwiEV (Jul 26, 2007)

TelnetManta said:


> And here is a picture of the whole car. I realized that I haven't posted one yet. The car needs a good cleaning and detail now that it's been in the shop for a few months collecting dust from welding, grinding, cursing etc!


Jeez Ben, that's a real stunner of an EV. Nice and organised in the engine bay too. Well done mate!


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> And here is a picture of the whole car. I realized that I haven't posted one yet. The car needs a good cleaning and detail now that it's been in the shop for a few months collecting dust from welding, grinding, cursing etc!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looking good Ben....Blue is my favorite color too. I am so Jealous.

The reverse swtch on the tranny is connected to the back up lights so either way I think it the same.

Yes nice planes. I usually crash mine  (R/C ones that is) so they aren't around for hanging on the wall. I do have one but it's not taken flight yet so it's still alive.


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

subscribing.....

(have some reading to catch up with on this one)


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Thanks guys. I just picked up my tags at lunch so I can really begin exploring the range etc.

Last night while finalizing my PakTrakr installation I hooked up the display and all it would do is display 8 blocks. I contacted the vendor, EVUSA, and they paid for overnight shipping back to Ken Hall for repair or replacement. You just can't beat customer service like that!

Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I like the color as well. I am actually planning to pick up a 95 318, same color but a 2 door sometime this week. It's in MUCH better condition that this one so I may move all of the EV components over to it and either sell this shell or convert it for someone else.

I'm a glutton for work I suppose...


Ben




Thaniel said:


> Looking good Ben....Blue is my favorite color too. I am so Jealous.


----------



## chamilun (Jun 17, 2008)

if you decide to sell the shell let me know. where are you located?


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I'm in South Carolina. I should know in a day or so.

Ben



chamilun said:


> if you decide to sell the shell let me know. where are you located?


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Good news! The 1kohm resistor smoothed my jerky reverse out to a VERY smooth movement. I put around 5 EV miles on the car just before dark and am trying to get used to shifting but I'm having a little trouble downshifting back into second without griiiiiinding.


Also, a funny thing happened as I passed a group of neighborhood kids, as I snuck up on them and passed one kid asked if I was driving a golf cart. I wish I had something to throw at him! LOL

Once I get my new door panels I'll be ready to take the car out daily.



Ben


----------



## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

Dang nice conversion Ben for a first timer! I hope mine turns out this nice! I see you've done a lot of electronic gadgetry and calculating. I used to do electronic repair for years before becoming a contractor. I'm pretty rusty now so I may pick your brain to find a suitable tach and drive source for it. 

I thought mine had a tach and I'd interface it somehow but yesterday I checked and it doesn't... Oh well.

How 'bout some pix of your guages? Have you completed them yet? I'm thinking of a pillar mount package or such. 

Just an FYI, the FB4001 has a max rpm rating of 5600 so I feel knowing where I'm cranking it to is a must!

Nice job!!!


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Well, I picked up another 3 Series yesterday (Friday) and as of 1am Sunday morning the engine bay is clear of the old ICE. I plan to give the bay a good cleaning tomorrow and start cutting out the trunk for battery boxes. This one should go together MUCH faster    !!!!!!


I'll post a few pics tomorrow, right now I have to sleep.



Ben


----------



## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> Well, I picked up another 3 Series yesterday (Friday) and as of 1am Sunday morning the engine bay is clear of the old ICE. I plan to give the bay a good cleaning tomorrow and start cutting out the trunk for battery boxes. This one should go together MUCH faster    !!!!!!
> 
> 
> I'll post a few pics tomorrow, right now I have to sleep.
> ...


eh?... how many EV's are you making??


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

PatricioIN said:


> eh?... how many EV's are you making??


I'm wondering that myself, not that I'm compaining


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> Good news! The 1kohm resistor smoothed my jerky reverse out to a VERY smooth movement. I put around 5 EV miles on the car just before dark and am trying to get used to shifting but I'm having a little trouble downshifting back into second without griiiiiinding.
> 
> 
> Also, a funny thing happened as I passed a group of neighborhood kids, as I snuck up on them and passed one kid asked if I was driving a golf cart. I wish I had something to throw at him! LOL
> ...


On down shifting you will need to goose the throttle a bit to get the rpm of the tranny up so it will properly syncronize, be sure not to over rev as there is a feel for this but it will work and you will be able to down shift smoothly with some practice. Awesome job dude !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Brian


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I decided to build the second car because I found a car, or the same type, that I felt fit the vision that I had for this EV better. I now have the second car completed and am happy to say that I drove it into work for the first time today.

My EV Grin is now EAR TO EAR! I've give 5 rides so far this morning. I pulled into the parking lot at 7:30 but didn't hit my desk until 9:30. One of those rides was for my boss so I should be covered 

I'm still trying to decide if I can trust my PakTrakr as I don't want to go below 80SOC so I'm trying to be careful. I have around 40 EV miles total on the car so far with 8 of them being this morning. Everyone who has ridden in the car seems very surprised at quietness, speed and acceleration even though I was trying to drive conservatively. So far I've seen a max of 620amps during a test run at home. Nothing broke so I feal a little convident in the conversion but am proceeding cautiosly.....




david85 said:


> I'm wondering that myself, not that I'm compaining


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

rctous said:


> On down shifting you will need to goose the throttle a bit to get the rpm of the tranny up so it will properly syncronize, be sure not to over rev as there is a feel for this but it will work and you will be able to down shift smoothly with some practice. Awesome job dude !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Brian



I've figured out that to downshift to second in my car I have to first hit, well, first... That speeds up the syncros enough for second to drop into place. Getting the hang of it now, I like the clutchless design as it seems to make you slow down whether you want to or not. That will only help to increase your range.


----------



## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

620 Amps? What type motor and controller? I'm running the Curtis 1231 rated 500A 

I'm closing in on the start up of mine but keep hitting snags. My vacuum pump was defective and one of the last batteries this morning spun a stud in the battery post. I've also run out of wire. Seems as I get close things keep popping up! 

Are you using the current sensor option on the Pak Tracker? I'm installing one too but haven't finished yet. I don't see how the battery cable is going to fit the sensor with such a small hole in the ct.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I have the Logisystems 750amp controller. I am using the paktrakr with current sensor, I added a copper bus bar to one of my battery connections for the sensor, seems to work well. I have 20 miles on the car as of now and just have my trip home to make which is 3 miles. I'm beginning to wonder how well my PakTrakr is really working and plan to test each battery when I get home. I need to establish a baseline for what kind of range I should expect to 80% SOC.

I did push harder than I would normally this morning, gotta remember to lay off the pedal even when showing the car.



Ben


----------



## TheSeeker (Mar 19, 2008)

I feel so slow now x_x I've not gotten anything done on my '85 318i since the end of July ... mostly because I'm trying to deal with debt first, but also because the transmission was (probably) shot and I haven't found the right tools to take it apart yet. Will probably end up just getting some other tranny. 

I want to fill up the back seat area with batteries on mine, allowing me to keep the trunk. I'm hoping that weight distribution will also help handling. If I can get 40 mils of hills with 12V batteries I'd do that, but I get the feeling I'll need to go to 8v or even 6v to get the range. (can't afford lithium) :/


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

TelnetManta said:


> I decided to build the second car because I found a car, or the same type, that I felt fit the vision that I had for this EV better. I now have the second car completed and am happy to say that I drove it into work for the first time today.
> 
> My EV Grin is now EAR TO EAR! I've give 5 rides so far this morning. I pulled into the parking lot at 7:30 but didn't hit my desk until 9:30. One of those rides was for my boss so I should be covered


Awsome..... just plain awsome! Are there any videos yet?


----------



## kugmo (Oct 31, 2008)

Hi, I would really like to see some pictures of this project of yours...


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

kugmo said:


> Hi, I would really like to see some pictures of this project of yours...


I went over to Ben's house and checked out his project saturday. Since he's busy with the car I'll post some pics I took.










Trunk Batteries











Underneath










Under hood









Under hood different angle


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

Any one for a ride!! Ben's car is a working driving EV

Well I can't figure out how to embed the video so you'll have to click.
Backing out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLE6gLHSLSQ

In car cam
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rnL0Jay1Yo

Ben's car is very nice and drove around well. Very impressive. I couldn't get him to do a white zombie like burn out  Guess that'll have to wait until my car is done.


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

That is a beautiful conversion. Excellent build quality. I was thinking of going with an older BMW 7 series, but decided a gainst it. Maybe the next one...

If you wanted to do this for a living I can definitely see how you could pull if off with such a nice build.

But the second video of the in car cam is not playing for me


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

david85 said:


> But the second video of the in car cam is not playing for me


 
It's still "processing" on You Tube's site. Give it some more time and it should be up....Maybe in the morning


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Thaniel!

Thanks for taking and posting some video! I can't wait to see how the "driving" video turned out.


UPDATE:

I installed my electric fluid heater today and wired it into the 144V system. This thing throws heat out of the vents within 2 minutes! After 5 minutes over 100degrees. With my DC/DC and the Heater going I am pulling 21amps. With just the DC/DC 4.3 amps (during charging) and with just the heater 15amps.

The biggest problem is that the relay I am using is an SCR type, because of this the heater will turn on but not off without turning the whole car off. I plan to order a triac type tomorrow.

I'll try to snap some pictures tonight of the installation.



Ben in SC


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I've been trying to make some updates to my site at http://www.upstate-ev.com/ where I have posted more details on my conversion. Let me know what you guys think.


Ben


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

Thaniel said:


> It's still "processing" on You Tube's site. Give it some more time and it should be up....Maybe in the morning


Works now. Cool vid


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Well, one step forward and two steps back it seems.

On my drive in to work today I was left stuck in the middle of a busy road when my coupler decided to disengage from the transmission. It appears that the set screw didn't hold the hub onto the motor shaft and it worked it's way back enough to disengage.

I guess I'll be tearing into it tonight and over the weekend. I plant to either countersink the set screw into the shaft this time and or add an additional set screw at 90 degrees from the original one. The only reason that I post this is to help anyone else as they assemble their drive system.



Ben


----------



## Bottomfeeder (Jun 13, 2008)

Did you use Loctite on your set screw?


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Bottomfeeder said:


> Did you use Loctite on your set screw?


Of course.

I'll know more when I separate the motor and transmission. I am in a hurry to get back on the road again! 

Ben


----------



## david85 (Nov 12, 2007)

I wonder if the coupler broke?


----------



## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

The Triac replacement for the heater didn't work either did it?


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

ElectriCar said:


> The Triac replacement for the heater didn't work either did it?


Havent gotten it yet. Unfortunately the heater is the least of my worries at the moment 


Ben


----------



## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

If my memory serves me, a triac is equivalent to back to back SCR's. You'll get the same results with it I'm afraid. 

I think you'll need a transistor based SSR. Check with Newark Electronics. From Gaffney warehouse it'll get to you next day probably using UPS ground.


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

Ben sorry to hear about the coupler issues, I assume you did not use a 1/4 " key or did you? I did not I have two set secrews and not only did I loctite them but I also loc tited the shaft and the coupler, had to go to a mchine shop to get the right loctite and so far I have not had issues but then again I have no controller either so the car sitting can't break. As for the heater I was having all sorts off issues as well till I put the old contactor,, now no issues at all. Its a bit spendy 89 bucks I think and 500 amps is surley over kill but ya know what problem solved. I am sure you can geta smaller contactor for less money. Controller is holding up ok for you it seems? How many EV miles on it? Good luck with the coupler and keep us posted.

Brian


----------



## DIYguy (Sep 18, 2008)

I've never been a fan of the straight bore with set screw design. A split taper bushing with hub really locks itself on a shaft and is the way to go. A QD design for example. 

Regards,
Gary


----------



## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

DIYguy said:


> I've never been a fan of the straight bore with set screw design. A split taper bushing with hub really locks itself on a shaft and is the way to go. A QD design for example.
> 
> Regards,
> Gary


I designed my coupler myself and I used a keyway AND a taper bushing. No set screw though because I don't want anything to get loose.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

DIYguy said:


> I've never been a fan of the straight bore with set screw design. A split taper bushing with hub really locks itself on a shaft and is the way to go. A QD design for example.
> 
> Regards,
> Gary



This coupler is the design from EVA that uses the keyway and set screw.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

ElectriCar said:


> If my memory serves me, a triac is equivalent to back to back SCR's. You'll get the same results with it I'm afraid.
> 
> I think you'll need a transistor based SSR. Check with Newark Electronics. From Gaffney warehouse it'll get to you next day probably using UPS ground.



I've ordered a proper dc-dc relay. I hope to have it tomorrow so I can run a little test on it to confirm it works. It only cost $20 so the price is right if it works as advertised.

I posted a link to it on my blog... http://www.upstate-ev.com

Ben


----------



## kittydog42 (Sep 18, 2007)

With a clutch, the setscrew design is as good and easier to install than the QD bushing or taper-lock bushing. When properly designed, the coupler extends back to the bearing of the motor. The setscrews are still important, but don't have as much of a job to do since the forward motion is contained by the motor bearing and the rearward motion is contained by the throwout bearing. 

Two ways to contain setscrews are to dimple the shaft with a drill bit, and to add a second setscrew over the first like a jam nut. Same principle.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Well, after dis assembly it appears that no set screws moved as I had suspected. It's much worse.

In using the EVA clutchless kit you bolt an original clutch disk to the adapter hub, this provides the connection between the electric motor and the transmission input shaft. As I separated the motor and tranny I could see the center of the clutch disk still on the input shaft as the motor pulled away.

I guess the original BMW SACHS disk (brand new) couldn't handle the torque of the electric motor? I'll be calling EVA in the morning to get their thoughts. Now to go out and completely disassemble the whole car to get the motor all the way out as this won't be a quick fix.

Pics soon I suppose.

Ben


----------



## brent.massey (Jul 23, 2008)

Wow...I'd be interested to see those pics if you can get them. Let us know the diagnosis once you figure is out, and how EVA responds. Crappy situation, sorry about that Ben!


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

Sorry to hear it is broken. Keep us upto date on what you find out,


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

did the coupler bolt on the center part (steel) or the outer part of the disc?

Brian


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

rctous said:


> did the coupler bolt on the center part (steel) or the outer part of the disc?
> 
> Brian



Brian,

You can see the adapter in the picture below. There's a steel hub that bolts to an aluminum disk. The clutch disk then bolts to the aluminum piece after having the pads removed.

The very center section of the disk is what separated.

Ben


----------



## ElectriCar (Jun 15, 2008)

*Well, what did Bryan say?* 

I've got the same setup on my S10. I've been looking forward to seeing how much torque this thing can deliver but now I'm sort of scared to put the hammer down for fear of having to rip it all apart again!

Would have been on it's maiden voyage today but for lack of cable and everyone was close who had it! Everything else is ready and I only need about 6' of 4/0 cable to burn electrons all weekend! You don't have any do you???


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> Brian,
> 
> You can see the adapter in the picture below. There's a steel hub that bolts to an aluminum disk. The clutch disk then bolts to the aluminum piece after having the pads removed.
> 
> ...











He Ben I can't help but thing about this failure. The engineer in me  Did the plate buckle where I drew the line marked 1 or did it pop the rivets Circled at 2 or something else? 

I see that this design for an adapter is fairly common but looking at it it creates a moment load around the bolt due to there only one bolt per plate (creating a pivot point). Personally I'd think 2 smaller bolts or rivets in each plate to secure it to the aluminum adapter disk might hold up better.

Let us know what you've found and what your supplier said.

Thaniel


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Thaniel,

Neither, it failed at the very center of the disk. Where the splines are that contact the transmission input shaft. That part is a piece of steel that's pressed into the "disk" part of the assembly. It just spun out basically.

Does that explain it?

Ben




Thaniel said:


> He Ben I can't help but thing about this failure. The engineer in me  Did the plate buckle where I drew the line marked 1 or did it pop the rivets Circled at 2 or something else?
> 
> I see that this design for an adapter is fairly common but looking at it it creates a moment load around the bolt due to there only one bolt per plate (creating a pivot point). Personally I'd think 2 smaller bolts or rivets in each plate to secure it to the aluminum adapter disk might hold up better.
> 
> ...


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> Thaniel,
> 
> Neither, it failed at the very center of the disk. Where the splines are that contact the transmission input shaft. That part is a piece of steel that's pressed into the "disk" part of the assembly. It just spun out basically.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I think I understand now. Very strange. I wouldn't think it would fail there since that's how it is from the factory. Did you do anything different or replace it with an new one?


----------



## rctous (Jun 18, 2008)

can it just be welded and all put back together?

that sounds simple enough, however you may lose the "trueness" when the heat goes in


----------



## EV4EODguy (Dec 30, 2008)

ElectriCar said:


> If my memory serves me, a triac is equivalent to back to back SCR's. You'll get the same results with it I'm afraid.
> 
> I think you'll need a transistor based SSR. Check with Newark Electronics. From Gaffney warehouse it'll get to you
> next day probably using UPS ground.


Ben 
1st off congrats on the CLEAN install it looks like you put a ton of effort into quality. As for the heater how about a MOSFET switch instead of an SCR? It should reverse with the application of a ground. Keep in mind that my expirience from circuts is from RC and killing IEDs so I may be off track. All I know is when I need a a switch to unlatch I use a fet.

Also did you part out your ICE and if so did you recoup any cost?


----------



## ARti (Oct 27, 2008)

Hi Ben,
We swapped eMails a couple of months ago. I finally started tearing out my 318ti ICE, and it's time to break the paralysis by analysis and order some stuff.
How's your experience with the "QuickCharge" charger and "Iota" DC/DC converter been so far? I'd originally thought Zivan for both, but would gladly save a few bucks. Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Phillip

1997 318ti
Fayetteville, AR


----------



## PatricioIN (Jun 13, 2008)

ARti said:


> Hi Ben,
> We swapped eMails a couple of months ago. I finally started tearing out my 318ti ICE, and it's time to break the paralysis by analysis and order some stuff.
> How's your experience with the "QuickCharge" charger and "Iota" DC/DC converter been so far? I'd originally thought Zivan for both, but would gladly save a few bucks. Any recommendations?
> 
> ...


thought I'd chime in on this one... the quick charge is sort of like the "clean skies act".. it aint! However, depending on your needs, it can be fine. I have the simple 120v 10a version and it works just fine. Takes 10-12 hours to charge my system, but as I rarely opp. charge, it's fine for my needs and was well worth saving several hundred dollars over the Zivan that was suggested to me.. anyway, one review - hopefully you'll get many to make your judgement on.


----------



## wannaberacer (Jan 6, 2009)

My daily driver is a 91 318i been wanting to do this for a while, I'll be taking notes on your build.


----------



## tonyroberts09 (Jan 8, 2009)

im through half of your steps. I plan to detail the motor mount build and battery box build because very few write-ups go over this thoroughly.


----------



## Thaniel (May 25, 2008)

tonyroberts09 said:


> im through half of your steps. I plan to detail the motor mount build and battery box build because very few write-ups go over this thoroughly.


Do you have a post or web page on yours? I'd like to check it out.

There are so many different ways that these can be accomplished. Most people don't need the detail as much as the general idea. Details are always good though


----------



## Mesuge (Mar 6, 2008)

This nice project concludes rather sadly here:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/youtube-videos-30297.html?t=30297

-

I hope Ben wouldn't mind if I chip in for the general interest of E36 donors for conversion, here are couple of ICE engine swap sites, where you can get closer look of the engine bay area and the real estate available, components alignment. There are many more sites and forums on this topic (ICE) though..

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/6357850-post69.html

http://ls1bmw.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2007-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-05%3A00&updated-max=2008-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-05%3A00&max-results=25

Clean-up and stripping this car: http://www.vorshlag.com/pictures/xp3/

Several interesting hacks: http://www.jaroslavklima.com/blog/labels/bmw.html

Differential swap (for LSD or another ratio): http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36diffswap/

Liposuction: http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-series-e36/e36-weight-reduction-thread-9978.html

Specs: http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmw_e36.html

Obviously start here: http://www.evalbum.com/type/BMW/


----------



## ARti (Oct 27, 2008)

Ben,
What kind of setup did you use to feed the tachometer? Did you save a toothed wheel off the ICE or fab one? Same thing with a Hall effect sensor: generic or salvaged?

We're getting close to having all the brackets finished, and I realized I probably needed to figure this out before I called the AC compressor bracket complete.

Thanks,
Phillip


----------

