# Go Kart Conversion



## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

i think you would be waisting time on spare golf cart parts....
i would also go 24 volt then you only need 2 batteries....

all you need is

PB6 pot box 
24volt controller 
motor with a shaft

ill post pics later today

sounds like a fun project....


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## Arlo (Dec 27, 2009)

Some of the golf kart motors are pretty good. Do a little bit of searching on youtube you will find them.


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

Arlo said:


> Some of the golf kart motors are pretty good. Do a little bit of searching on youtube you will find them.


 
golf cart motor does not have a shaft or end cap bearing so the need to be bolted to a golf cart rear end....


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## Harrycarry250 (Dec 5, 2011)

Could you refer me to some good parts or places to scrap parts from. Like electric scooters, wheelchairs, and golf carts. If I only need a 24 volt controller I can't imagine it would be very expensive. Also a motor, I need one of those. 
Thanks

Edit
Im thinking about this motor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Volt-DC-...519?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20aecdb20f
This controller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Curtis-Inst...097?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19caee9661
This pot: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Curtis-PB6-...ons-/260736451680?vxp=mtr&hash=item3cb51a8460


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Harrycarry250 said:


> Could you refer me to some good parts or places to scrap parts from. Like electric scooters, wheelchairs, and golf carts. If I only need a 24 volt controller I can't imagine it would be very expensive. Also a motor, I need one of those.
> Thanks
> 
> Edit
> ...


That might work if you can tolerate a remarkably slow ride. Motor is rated at 4.5A, 24V = 108 watts = 0.14 hp if it was 100% efficient, which is impossible. So you are like about 0.10 hp rated. You might see a peak of 4 or 5 times that, so about 1/2 hp. But above rated power, that little motor will overheat fast. Besides that it has a close coupled gearhead and coupling to a chain and sprocket will be a bitch.

Controller is just a little better at 20A, so maybe giving you in the range of 1/2 hp rated and 1.5 to 2 hp peak (with a bigger motor), but not for long.

Go Karts are kool. Here is a thread where I posted some info on one. http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/kart-go-kart-project-60039.html?highlight=kart You don't have to build a lithium powered race kart to have fun, but I think you need a little better equipment than your eBay finds. There have been several dozen threads on eKarts over the past few years on this forum. Search for them. Also I seem to come across utube vids about them all the time.

Good luck,

major


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## Harrycarry250 (Dec 5, 2011)

So if you had to choose some bottom line parts, what would they be. As this is my first build and there is a high chance of failure I dont want to blow my budget on this. Thanks for the post, your thread is quite informative!

Edit:
Found this motor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-450Watt...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item23160e9443


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Harrycarry250 said:


> So if you had to choose some bottom line parts, what would they be. As this is my first build and there is a high chance of failure I dont want to blow my budget on this. Thanks for the post, your thread is quite informative!


Sorry Harry, but I don't get into specifying parts. I do tend to rag on bad choices 

I suggest you take some time and nose around. See what has worked for others. Like http://evalbum.com/4072 I bet there are hundreds of karts on there. And the same physics apply regardless of EV size, so the wiki on this forum should give you some basics. Or perhaps a book on the subject. Some EV parts vendors like KTA used to offer kart kits but that page is blank now. 

Actually I like the idea of using an old golf cart system. 36 or 48V is nice. Chargers are relatively cheap. Just use smaller batteries. But as mentioned, those motors lack the drive end shaft and bearing. Maybe substitute a similar size forklift motor. You can either buy new components or get creative. There's enough out there on this web for ideas. Hopefully some other members will chime in.

Regards,

major


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## Salty9 (Jul 13, 2009)

More info: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=16328


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Harrycarry250 said:


> Found this motor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-450Watt...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item23160e9443


Better. Still wimpy IMO. And http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66496


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

we are using this advance dc 24 motor and a alltrax 650 amp controller
for a barstool racer


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

indoor kart tracks here in cali use a 24 volt systen and they run about 50 mph not sure what motor or controller they use....

they guy i get my motors from built electric carts ob shifter carts chassis 15 years ago and they ran over 80 mph.....

i will find out today if they have a few more of that 24 volt motor on the other post and get a price.....


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## Arlo (Dec 27, 2009)

Wicked Carts said:


> we are using this advance dc 24 motor and a alltrax 650 amp controller
> for a barstool racer


 How much power does a bar stool need?


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

Harrycarry250 said:


> Could you refer me to some good parts or places to scrap parts from. Like electric scooters, wheelchairs, and golf carts. If I only need a 24 volt controller I can't imagine it would be very expensive. Also a motor, I need one of those.
> Thanks
> 
> Edit
> ...


 

motor looks like for a wheel chair and the controller i have no idea
the right box but to much money


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

Arlo said:


> How much power does a bar stool need?


 
depends on how fast you want to go..... most guys run a6.5 gas motor and they do about 35 + mph

we also have thought about doing a mini bike too.... tomany ideas in my head...


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

here are some custom golf carts motors


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## Harrycarry250 (Dec 5, 2011)

I might be able to grab a motor from my dad, so thats not a problem right now. Whats a good controller to get? If you cant reccomend one what are some good specs to look for aside from the odvious 24 volt. Is there a substitute for the curtis 5 k pot, like a 5k pot from radioshack?
Thanks


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

i would use this controller

*Features include:*

*Alltrax AXE 4865*
650 Amps
24-48 Voltage Range
Manufacturer's website Alltrax Inc

Programmable via RS232 comm port using PC or Laptop
Integrated anodized heat-sink with multi bolt pattern for flexibility
Fully encapsulated epoxy fill - environmentally rugged design
Advanced MOSFET power transistor design for excellent efficiency 
and power transfer
1/2 Speed reverse option and "Plug Brake" options available
Type: DC "SERIES WOUND" motor controller
Under-voltage cutback: adjustable
16-30 VDC, preset to 12 volts under your battery pack voltage

Over-voltage shutdown: adjustable
30-60 VDC (48V models) (60VDC MAX)

Operating Frequency: 18kHz
Control voltage range; Key, Throttle and Reverse inputs:
Reverse Horn Output: 50mA sink max
Standby Current (Powered Up): < 35mA
Throttle Input:
ITS (inductive)
Resistive 0-5K ohm (+/-10%)
5K-0 ohm (+/-10%)
0-5Volt
6-10Volt

Operating Temperature: -25C to 75C, 95C shutdown
Adjustable via Controller Pro software:
Throttle acceleration / deceleration rate and map profile
Armature current limit
Brake current limit
Under / Over-voltage shutdown
Half Speed Reverse
High Pedal Disable
Plug Brake

*AXE Models **2444**4834**4844**4845**4855**4865**7234**7245*Current Limit400A300A400A400A500A650A300A450A2 Min. Rating 400A300A400A400A500A650A300A450A5 Min Rating 350A200A300A300A350A400A200A350A60 Min. Rating 200A135A150A175A250A250A125A200A

about $650.00 for one then you can upgrade voltage if you want down the road


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Harrycarry250 said:


> I might be able to grab a motor from my dad, so thats not a problem right now. Whats a good controller to get? If you cant reccomend one what are some good specs to look for aside from the odvious 24 volt. Is there a substitute for the curtis 5 k pot, like a 5k pot from radioshack?


The controller needed depends on the motor, and battery. Wicked recommended a good one. That brown DC kart of mine uses an old model 1204 Curtis at 48V and has a 275A limit. It does well with that. Both Curtis and Alltrax are good reliable products. Kelly is another place. Cheap prices and cheap products and you have to deal with China.

The pot (or driver control input device) depends on the controller. Most will accept the PB-6, which is a special 5kOhm pot used as a variable resistor. Any 5kOhm pot could be used but it is tough to get the full rotary throw on the pot equal to full foot lever push.


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## Harrycarry250 (Dec 5, 2011)

Wicked carts, I appreciate your input and I'd imagine those are fantastic controllers but I dont want to spend that money on a project that may or may not or never get done. I am trying to be as conservative as possible, not cheap. I understand that certain products dot come cheap. Which is prob the case for a controller. What is a good entry controller?


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

Harrycarry250 said:


> Wicked carts, I appreciate your input and I'd imagine those are fantastic controllers but I dont want to spend that money on a project that may or may not or never get done. I am trying to be as conservative as possible, not cheap. I understand that certain products dot come cheap. Which is prob the case for a controller. What is a good entry controller?


 
you could go with a smaller alltrax like a 300 amp abour $350.00

or find a golf cart controller 24volt 0-5k but if you want more voltage down the road then you need to up grade with a new controller....

i inderstand about small budget but i stick with what works and you will spend less $$$ and time in the long run...


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

Harrycarry250 said:


> I might be able to grab a motor from my dad, so thats not a problem right now. Whats a good controller to get? If you cant reccomend one what are some good specs to look for aside from the odvious 24 volt. Is there a substitute for the curtis 5 k pot, like a 5k pot from radioshack?
> Thanks


 
what kind of motor from your dad can you get?????


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## Harrycarry250 (Dec 5, 2011)

Possibly a fork lift motor, ac compressor motor, alternator(converted), starter motor, or golf cart. I have alternators and starter motors as I work on cars all the time. The started motor has plenty of power because it has to start up a 70' 396 Chevelle SS.


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Starter motors are intermittant duty, meaning it'l be fine if you want to ride for 30 seconds. After that, it'l really start to heat up and you'll likely have issues if you run it at high power for longer than a "typical crank".

The alternator needs a BLDC controller that is made to work with it, Kelly would work, but between magnets for the rotor and a kelly controller, you're way over budget.

Stick with forklift motor.


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## Harrycarry250 (Dec 5, 2011)

Or a powerful compressor motor. How much is a bottom line Kelly controller. Also so all I really need is batteries, controller, motor, and 5k pot?


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## Wicked Carts (Nov 1, 2011)

Harrycarry250 said:


> Or a powerful compressor motor. How much is a bottom line Kelly controller. Also so all I really need is batteries, controller, motor, and 5k pot?


 
and contactor


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## Harrycarry250 (Dec 5, 2011)

What's a contractor?


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

A contactor (no r after the t) is a relay for turning on and off the high current cables from the battery to the controller.


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## Harrycarry250 (Dec 5, 2011)

I noticed that the Kelly parts are fairly inexpensive. Are they any good?


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## major (Apr 4, 2008)

Harrycarry250 said:


> I noticed that the Kelly parts are fairly inexpensive. Are they any good?


Hi Harry,

I mentioned them before. 


major said:


> Kelly is another place. Cheap prices and cheap products and you have to deal with China.


Search this forum for Kelly Controllers and you will find many displeased uses. I'm not saying they don't work. But I would get one with twice the rating you think you need, at least. 

major


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## Joey (Oct 12, 2007)

Harrycarry250 said:


> Also so all I really need is batteries, controller, motor, and 5k pot?


A battery charger


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## Georgia Tech (Dec 5, 2008)

Man Harry there are SOOO many oppertunities when it come to an Electirc GoKart.... Go on You tube look up Neurati Kart (sp)... or the 70,000 watt go kart...

Go Kart convert better than cars believe it or not!


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## Dennis (Feb 25, 2008)

I can speak from REAL experience that the motor to use is an ES-22-2 or an ES-33 from D&D motors. Both work well at 48 to 72 volts, but the ES-33 is slower RPMs, but more torque. The ES-22-2 can get a 500 lb kart up to 45+ MPH in less than 5 seconds with 300 amps current limit and 72 volt system. The controller to use is an AXE7234 which can work at low voltages of 24 up to 72 volts. This would give you an upgrade path voltage wise. So I suggest you use that controller. Batteries I used were Odyssey PC1200's. Mark, that owns the Neurotikart, built my frame for my kart exactly like his is built. I plan to build my own from this time around because 500 lbs kills batteries fast and that is just too heavy. The cart is a tank on wheels with it being made from gas pipe!! My design will have the kart not weighing more than 200 lbs WITH everything installed w/o driver.


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## alannasar (Oct 15, 2012)

I just completed a go-kart conversion for my 10 year old son's birthday. I used a 1000 watt 36 volt MY1020 motor and a cheap Chinese 40 amp controller. I used an old go-kart that I found on craigslist for $150. I had to make some tweaks to get everything just right. It works great and my son loves it. It goes 15-20 mph.
see blog for more details. (http://electricgokart36v.blogspot.com/)
It was a fun project, good luck and enjoy it!


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## PStechPaul (May 1, 2012)

That's a good go-kart conversion and a lot of valuable advice for things to consider and places to get parts. My own project is sort of a go-kart made from a riding mower and now powered with a three phase electric motor, which is rather unique. A photo before conversion:










I may be more impressed by low speed torque and pulling/pushing power, than speed. 

This was my ultimate toy:










My project is documented here: http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=230278

I haven't done much on it since June, but just last week I powered the VFD and motor with a single 12V battery and a 1000W peak 220VAC inverter. Since then I found some more powerful inverters that run directly on 24V and 48V that may be able to provide close to the full 2 HP of the motor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/32088457061...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


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## joey12jet (Nov 5, 2012)

Hi everyone,

I have a buggy project on a budget. im trying to convert it using this:

2x Motor: $184.95 ea (x2 = $369.90 inc shipping)
48 Volt, 1000 Watt, 3000 RPM, 27 Amp, permanent-magnet motor. 12 gauge power leads. MY1020. Dimensions: 4-1/4'' W x 6'' L not including shaft. 4-1/4'' W x 7'' L including shaft. Shaft is 15/32 diameter. Sprocket included is for 8mm T8F chain

Controller: $84.95 (inc shipping)
YK42-4 - A great buy on this heavy duty simple 40 - 100 amp control box for up to 2000+ watt electric 48 volt motors. 6"L X 3.5"W X 2"H. Just connect to motor, 3 wire connector hall effect throttle, and then 48 volt battery set for high quality and endurance you need.

Are these motors and controller compatible to each other?
I want it to run on 48v system.

Should I get the motor in parallel connection or in series?

This build is in reference to alannasar's go-kart build except im using 2 motor.

Everyone's input is welcome. 

Thanks
Joey


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## PStechPaul (May 1, 2012)

Looks like a good project. I found those motors for $86 each:
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=52_57&product_id=327

and the controller is $45
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_75&product_id=186

You would need to use two controllers, one for each motor, and that should work OK if the controller is designed for torque rather than speed. Here is a more powerful controller for $90 that could handle both motors:
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_75&product_id=189

But I don't know how well that will work. Foertunately the motors are PM type so they won't run away when unloaded like a series wound motor.

There may be even better deals or better motor/controller combos, but this site just came up when I searched for the MY1020.

I also found this:





 
and here's a 2.5 HP motor for $150:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CUB-ADE...-Fun-Model-P-N-918-0588-NEW-OEW-/121031578664


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## joey12jet (Nov 5, 2012)

Thanks for fast response PStechPaul,

I was thinking to use dc control relay to switch from series connected motors to parallel, i would use series for low speed,high torque(take off) then flick a switch to activate the relay to switch the motors to parallel for high speed,low torque(its like 2nd gear). 

What could be the problem if I use only one 48-60v 2000w controller that u are recommending?


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## PStechPaul (May 1, 2012)

With the motors in series they will tend to have equal torque, which is proportional to current, while in parallel they will tend to have equal speed, which is proportional to voltage. If you have one motor for each wheel, they will be free to draw different current in parallel for the difference in torque, while in series they can have different voltage for different speed. This will be mostly for cornering, where the wheels run at different speeds and torque. If the motor shafts are locked, then I don't see a problem. But I think it would be an advantage to have one motor per wheel, which gives you independent traction, and you can eliminate the differential. And I don't think it will cause a problem with these PM DC motors.


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