# Adapter plate stuff



## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

I don't much about vw clutches, but every clutch that I have installed fits over the dowel pins and goes inside the bell housing, facing the transmission. It looks like you have the flywheel in there backwards.


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

The flywheel doesn't stick out of the bell housing with a stock engine (except for the seal area near the center rear of the flywheel.) I suspect you are trying to stick a 200mm flywheel in a older transaxle made to clear a 180mm flywheel. The old transaxle bell housing can be clearanced to fit the later flywheel.


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## evmetro (Apr 9, 2012)

I just looked closer, and maybe those are not dowel pins sticking out, so I don't know... sorry


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## 727jjmc (Aug 15, 2013)

Thank you for the replies. I think EVfun is correct: I think I have the wrong flywheel. I bought the buggy from a guy who already had the engine off. He just handed me some old flywheel he had laying around. And yes, this is an older transmission.

What do you mean by "The old transaxle bell housing can be clearanced to fit the later flywheel." Could I just buy a 180mm flywheel and clutch kit? Not sure how hard it is to find those 180mm flywheels though. 

Thanks for the comments!


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## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

I cannot recommend using a 180mm flywheel and clutch. Electric motors have great torque. VW upgraded because the smaller clutch couldn't handle the torque of a 1.5 liter gas engine without a very stiff pressure plate (which can cause clutch tube failures.)

If you happen to have a 200mm flywheel with a removable starter ring gear then just taking that off will give you more than enough clearance. Any automotive machine shop should be able to cut the ring gear off if it is part of the flywheel. That is a part of the process of installing a replacement ring gear. If you need to clearance the transaxle it isn't much material to remove. Some material near each of the 4 engine bolt holes and a little bit inside because the bell housing begins to taper down in size a little to soon to clear the edge larger flywheel ring gear.

From what I understand, there are also some 200mm clutch flywheels with 109 tooth ring gears (1500cc engines in 6 volt cars.) I've stuck to Beetles, so I have no experience with these.


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## onegreenev (May 18, 2012)

When you put in your motor you will see where there is scuffing around the bell housing from the ring gear. There I'd show you but my setup is already closed with the motor installed. I just took a grinding bit and slowly ground it away until there was no more scuffing. Its not clean looking but it does give the clearance you need. I had to do this to a couple transmissions. My current one needed no clearancing to fit. For sure, don't use the small flywheel. You need the full 200mm flywheel with a good stage II pressure plate for the minimum. You may need a stage III or IIII if you really build a killer buggie. 

Your Warp9 will be a monster if you put any punch to it. Stage III me thinks.


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## 727jjmc (Aug 15, 2013)

Hey guys!

Thanks for the comments. I think I have a stage II clutch assembly for my 200mm flywheel. II'll look into the stage III, although I don't really plan on being too crazy with my buggy. Either way, I should be able to get a stage III for a little over $100. 

Anyways, I found what my problem was. For some reason, the clutch cable was too tight, as the arm was pushing out the throwout bearing even when the clutch isn't pressed in. I'm not sure why the cable was tightened so much. I didn't think anything of it until now cause the the guy pulled the engine out before he sold it, so I figured the cable was where it should be. This is my first VW I've worked on, so I didn't know any better either. 

Any ideas on how tight the cable should be in its resting state? I figured just tight enough to remove any slack. 

It's funny you mentioned the ring gear eating into the transmission housing. I just talked to a guy today about that (like 20 mins ago). Thanks for bringing it up. 

Hey thanks for all the tips everybody.


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## racunniff (Jan 14, 2009)

727jjmc said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> Any ideas on how tight the cable should be in its resting state? I figured just tight enough to remove any slack.


If you don't already have one, I recommend getting a repair manual for your car's make/model/year - e.g. the Haynes manual, or other of your choice. You will thank yourself many times later as you try to figure out torque specs, wiring glitches, and clutch cable tension


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## 727jjmc (Aug 15, 2013)

Yes, a repair manual would be a good idea, but this is a custom made ghetto sand rail buggy I bought from the owner before me. I think it even has two old style plastic cafeteria seats with the legs sawed off as seats.

Maybe I could find a general repair manual for it that would give me a clue. But I figured I would throw it out there.


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## piotrsko (Dec 9, 2007)

A good generic manual for VW's would be the compleat VW manual for Idiots. it covers pretty much anything carburated VW and is actually a good read. Many librarys have copies.

OTOH, clutch adjustment is about 1/2" free movement on the top edge of the clutch pedal to start with.


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