# DC Motors



## VDubber (Jun 2, 2008)

Who is telling you that?

ADC FB-4001 will make 20HP constant at 120V, right?

20HP * 0.76 = 15.2Kw / 120V = 127A @ 80% driveline effeciency = 158A. IIRC it is rated for a continuous 160A rating, so it will happily make 20HP until your batteries give out if you are in the proper RPM range.

Get a 500A controller, and you get around 60HP peak (the way ICEs are rated). Get a Zilla and you can squeeze over 100HP peak from this motor. Now how long you can get this HP depends on how well you are cooling it and how stiff your batteries are...


----------



## joseph3354 (Apr 2, 2008)

check out this thread telnetmanta:

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/using-forklift-motor-and-choosing-good-7598.html


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

I've read it at least twice LOL. It has a lot of info but nothing really specific. I make a post to that thread but I'll ask here as well.

I found a local forklift surplus outfit that has supposedly sold several motors to people out of a Hyster E50XM and E50XL (same motor). Doesn anyone know how well these will work? They're marked for 36V use but I want to run a 120V pack.

Ben


----------



## VDubber (Jun 2, 2008)

Where is Jim when you need him, eh?

The Hyster E50XM supposedly has a GE 11" motor, so it appears big enough at least. Do you know if it's series, shunt, or sepex?

I think it used the GE EV100 controller, IIRC.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

Is the controller useful in an EV? If so I'm sure I could get it as well. I'll call back and ask about the motor. They may not know TBO but its worth a try.

JIM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Where are you. 


Ben


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

He's checking on the type. He did say that the 11" was a "Premium" and it goes for $795 but they also sell very fast so it may be hard to come by. I'm "trying" to convert a 95 Eagle Talon, hopefully the 8" standard motor in the Hyster E50Xm will be enough.


Thanks!
Ben


----------



## VDubber (Jun 2, 2008)

The EV100 controller on that forklift is a SCR-based 36V model. It *could* be used on a NEV I suppose, but it may be an uphill battle. A new/used Alltrax/Navitas one would likely be a bit easier to setup and maintain if you are staying with lower voltages.

I am going to be using a 7.5", 36V lift pump motor at 96V. Sure it might go to 120, but 96 will get me around town just fine. This way I do not have to advance the motor any further then the 4-5 degrees it is at now - which you will want to do if you are going to be running it at 120V.


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

VDubber,

Thanks for all of your help! I could run at 96V I suppose, I don't really have a definite range that I need to achieve. I would like to get to 55MPH though and just thought that 120V would give me more options. Which controller are you planning to use. Heck, which motor are you using specifically!?

I haven't bought anything yet so I'm still int he planning stages but I'm ready to start building.

Ben


----------



## VDubber (Jun 2, 2008)

TelnetManta said:


> He's checking on the type. He did say that the 11" was a "Premium" and it goes for $795 but they also sell very fast so it may be hard to come by. I'm "trying" to convert a 95 Eagle Talon, hopefully the 8" standard motor in the Hyster E50Xm will be enough.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Ben


Do the motors look like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hyster-Drive-Mo...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


----------



## TelnetManta (Jun 5, 2008)

VDubber,

I havent seen the motor yet. I'll give him a call tomorrow and see if I can email that picture for comparison. The motor in the auction looks great to me. How do you think it would work in a conversion?

Ben


----------



## VDubber (Jun 2, 2008)

That one was recently recommended on the EVDL. Just make sure not to email him the ebay image link, since that is the actual fair market price...


----------



## Hi Torque Electric (Dec 23, 2007)

Hey all

Sorry I've been absent for a while but the private calls and emails are keeping me tied up. It'd be great if they were all sales but most are not and it's begining to kill me to be honest

FWIW, there is no simple way to list motors as I don't know the lift model to motor model and then each motor has it's own set of pro's and con's. In general, look for a 100 to 150 lbs 4 pole motor rated at 36 to 48 volts and advance the brush timing by 10 degrees opposite the motors intended rotation and mark, drill and tap 4 new plate mounting holes in the motor housing.

Look for clean cores that have shiny insulation and yellow armature banding, where good usable brushes are a plus. In as much as cheap cores can by found and had, to replace an armature or fields for these can be expensive and ruin the plan to save a few bucks.

Shafts are the biggest issue to overcome in many a lift motor, specially the pump motors with their splined shafts. Prestolites and ADC's are the easiest and cheapest for me to reshaft them with either a 7/8th or 1 1/8th keyed shaft and I've done many for people who have bought nice pump motors (after they usually spend time trying it the hard way 
Motor direction is another issue to look at when using a pump motor as it's designed to run just one way. They can be wired differently but may be beyond an in-house repair as it's quite easy to burn up insulation.

The GE Hyster motor is (if anything else) a bit larger than one needs to be honest (EVeryones battery limited and it's not wise to cart around to much more motor than what is needed). For those who want to know how small one can go, check out Damon Henry's Datsun on the EV Photo album under Datson/Washington. He's using an ADC 6.7" lift motor I reshafted but he's blower cooling it and runs on flat streets.

That's about all the time I have this morning but will try to stay a little closer. As an FYI to all, as I've stated the "freebie" calls to the shop are killing my floor time, so if people could pass the info to call me during west coast evening time, it'd be a big help in keeping my butt on the floor during work hours and put the calls into a time slot where I can offer more quantity time  For those who are looking at doing their own DIY motorrepair I do have a motor teardown write up that'll fit most your needs as well (Top left). I'm looking to get a face lift to my site in hopes I can clean it up and make it a little easier to find stuff and a better area way to sell product there) but that's another post
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


----------



## roguesoul (May 3, 2008)

How does one know a one-way motor from a Bi-directional motor? Is it wound different, and visually apparent? 
Thanks.



Hi Torque Electric said:


> Motor direction is another issue to look at when using a pump motor as it's designed to run just one way. They can be wired differently but may be beyond an in-house repair as it's quite easy to burn up insulation.


----------



## VDubber (Jun 2, 2008)

roguesoul said:


> How does one know a one-way motor from a Bi-directional motor? Is it wound different, and visually apparent?
> Thanks.


If it has TWO terminals and no magnets, then it is a one-way motor (aka pump motor).


----------



## Hi Torque Electric (Dec 23, 2007)

If a motor has just two terminal posts (and isn't a per-mag motor)(they'll switch direction when the power cables are swapped) it will stay the same rotation regardless of where positive and negitive are. If the motor has 4 terminals (or six) then it's reversable.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


----------



## VDubber (Jun 2, 2008)

Hey Jim, where would I find some bearings for an old Prestolite? My eBay motor has a bit of a vibration at speed (I thought it was due to a large pulley with a chunk missing out of it, but after I took that off it still shakes just a wee bit).

The comm is nice and clean & smooth, the brushes are like 90% new, and the current draw seems about right. I figure the bearings are the only thing left...


----------



## Hi Torque Electric (Dec 23, 2007)

Hey V

You can pick them up at any bearing house and they usually have a number on them somewhere and as a guess they'd be a 6305-2RS and a 6206-2RS (although you could have different bearings than qoted like a 6205-2RS)(2RS stands for double sealed)(which I actually prefer over the metal shielded bearings myself).

That said, changing the bearings won't fix the balance (or should say un-balanced issues you're feeling). Your armatre may have spit some balancing putty off, or it could have just not been done well at the factory (hey when you're in some fat pig of a lift a little wobble can't be felt 8^) One of the areas I have to (okay like to) improve is the lift grade balance on motors whenever feasible (it adds time and cost on them).

If you don't want to take it apart and have someone balance it you could try to balance the motor and flywheel unit as a whole.
Anyway, that's (probably) what you're seeing.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


----------



## ga2500ev (Apr 20, 2008)

Jim,

Glad to see you back. A couple of questions just when you get a chance.

1) What's your availability on the Netgain motors posted on your site?

2) Would there be any profit margin in selling refurb forklift motors for EV use? There seems to be a market.

Thanks for any info.

ga2500ev


----------



## Hi Torque Electric (Dec 23, 2007)

Hey GA

The Netgain motors are sold out till August right now as demand is exceeding supply. They've had a small price increase as well that I need to go and update (just one more todo thing on my EVer growing list 8^)

There is profit to be made on converting lift motors but not as much as one thinks (if done right)(I honestly make more on just building them for forklifts)(but that's not as fun 8^)

By the time I get a core, usually having to reshaft it, throw in new parts, and the like, it allows me to keep my doors open another day 8^o

Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


----------

