# Can't get Curtis 1314 software to connect



## Thumper (Nov 24, 2010)

Solved my problem.

I made up a cable that goes into the plug for the 840 meter based on info from other threads on this forum.

Here’s the pinout for the cable. (I just ordered the molex connector today so I’m not sure I got the right part numbers. I hot-wired it to make it work for now)

Molex 8-pole 2 row connector is 39-01-3089 (Digikey WM24063-ND) Pins 39-00-0083 (Digikey WM3114CT-ND)
Computer connector is DB9 Female
Molex --------------- DB-9
TX 6 -----wht------ 2 Computer RX
RX 1 -----grn------- 3 Computer TX
GRD 8 -----blk------- 5 Signal Ground
12v 5 -----red------ No Connection
Com Port set at 9600 8 N 1

You can also use Hyperterminal and read the data being sent to the 840 meter.

There is no optoisolation so be carefull not to have computer and charger connected at the same time.


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

Thumper said:


> Solved my problem.
> 
> I made up a cable that goes into the plug for the 840 meter based on info from other threads on this forum.


What cable were you using and what were you connecting it to originally if not the 840 cable?


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## Thumper (Nov 24, 2010)

Same connection. Computer to 840 cable.
As it turns out, the dongle from curtis was faulty. It would pass data from computer to controller but not from controller to computer. This very expensive dongle is nothing more than a serial cable with optical isolation.


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I thought it also involved stepping down the voltage and inverting the signal?


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## JRoque (Mar 9, 2010)

Hi. This is an old thread but...



Thumper said:


> This very expensive dongle is nothing more than a serial cable with optical isolation.


I thought the 1309 was a CAN<->Serial converter. I'm glad to see you got the software to run over the serial port.

Is there a cheaper source for the Curtis software than their MSRP of $450?

JR


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/electric-golf-carts/15316-programming-curtis-controller-6.html
You might find something useful on this page


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## JRoque (Mar 9, 2010)

Yikes... thanks!

JR


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## Nick Smith (Oct 26, 2007)

I purchased an OEM curtis cable (1309USB) and software but it seems to be missing a USB device driver. I thought the software would have this included but no luck.

Can anyone help?


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

Ask your supplier. IIRC, it's just a serial-usb driver you need, but I forget if it's Prolific, FTDI or SiLabs (it wouldn't come with the dongle, your computer should recognize it if it's running an up-to-date OS)


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

You may already know this but...

There is no TTL involved, it is just straight serial.

When making the cable, TX to RX and RX to TX, ground to ground and NEVER connect the 12V wire. (a 3 wire cable)

There are no converters involved. It is straight serial. Opto-isolator is optional, but buy several as they will burn out if the computer touches the car.....

The older software is serial interface and it is a real problem to get it to finally connect. It is a serial interface only and you must use a USB to Serial converter (with the driver supplied with the converter). I managed it and used it for a while. The trick is to check your computer, transfer what ever is using COM 1 to some other COM port so the software can use COM 1.

An acquaintance bought the newer Curtis package. It recognises USB interface and is native. It needs no "driver"..... and has a few new features too. DO NOT allow the laptop to touch the car anywhere!!! (Charger on or off) It will send a charge through the USB port and kill it through the ground wire....(Don't ask)

I have used the older "Internet" software, the newer software and the hand held programmer. 

The hand held is the absolute best for me. It is extremely portable, connects fast, will toggle between 3 screens with configurable buttons and is almost fool proof.

It cost me $400 (it eliminates Microsoft from the picture, a good thing)


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## Nick Smith (Oct 26, 2007)

frodus said:


> Ask your supplier. IIRC, it's just a serial-usb driver you need, but I forget if it's Prolific, FTDI or SiLabs (it wouldn't come with the dongle, your computer should recognize it if it's running an up-to-date OS)


All good - supplier came through rather unexpectedly with the drivers. I can now let you know that the Curtis 1309USB appears to use the FTDI drivers.

Windows 7 pro (6.1.7601 SP1) did not recognise the device nor could it locate device drivers online...

I will let you know when I get it working!


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## albo2 (Oct 4, 2011)

mizlplix said:


> An acquaintance bought the newer Curtis package. It recognises USB interface and is native. It needs no "driver"..... and has a few new features too. DO NOT allow the laptop to touch the car anywhere!!! (Charger on or off) It will send a charge through the USB port and kill it through the ground wire....(Don't ask)


Hi Miz I'm not asking but what were the symptoms and how did you go about fixing them I'm afraid I may have done this as I'm getting an "unknown controller error" message when attempting to connect, I'm receiving data and my gauge still works fine


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

If you even think you have had a discharge
between the car and laptop, plug in any 
other USB device to make sure the port i
s working. It does not take much to kill 
the board traces on a USB port.

The Data part might be fried but it will still 
have power through it, so check a mouse, 
or memory stick to check the data part.

If that is good and you are still having 
issues, plug in a serial device to the adapter 
and get it working. It will be easier to do 
than that controller software.

Then, Windows 7 is a special case. XP is 
easiest, Vista harder but 7 is a pain to 
make work.

First get a device that states "Win 7" on it.

Second, it is a simple deal really to understand, 
but harder to do. Any windows version needs 
to view the USB port as a serial....

Open the Device Manager, ports section. Open 
each listed port, then properties, then resources 
to see which one is COM 1. Change it to COM 11
or something other than COM 1.

Then plug in the adapter alone. Did it register a 
new port? Did it try to load a driver? If so, Good. 
( Or You might want to delete it and plug it in until it does.)

Under the new listed port, open "Properties". 
Then "Resources" choose to set it to COM 1. 
Then Exit.

Open the Curtis program, At the top is the 
settings to set the port. Make sure it is set
to recognise COM 1.

I had to do this 10-15 times and one time....
"BINGO" it recognised the port and started working.

Ain't windows wonderful.

There is another longer article on it here...
ivanbennett dot com/forum/index.php?topic=13.0

You will have to type it into your browser as
linking to other sites is against forum policy. 
(At least for me it is)

Miz


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## JRP3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I'll try it.

http://ivanbennett.com/forum/index.php?topic=13.0


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## albo2 (Oct 4, 2011)

This may be of interest to anyone that owns an arduino, the arduino has a built in serial to usb convertor even if you don't it's probably better money spent than buying a cable or making one yourself, and you're left with a new toy to play with, all you need to do to use it is remove or busy out the chip by writing an empty sketch "void loop(){}" upload that to the Arduino close the Arduino software and connect the controller to pins 0 and 1 on my 1238-7601 green to pin0 and white to pin1, black to arduino gnd, connect your arduino cable to the USB of the laptop as you would anyway if you have successfully connected the arduino the drivers are already installed, connect the software to the same com port the arduino uses and you're away, hope this helps, I now have a unused serial usb cable I payed 30 bucks for oh well you live and learn.

Update this works but you must use a MAX232 chip, as the Arduino is ttl and the controller RS232 I'll post pictures later.


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## woodygb (Apr 7, 2013)

Nick Smith said:


> All good - supplier came through rather unexpectedly with the drivers. I can now let you know that the Curtis 1309USB appears to use the FTDI drivers.
> 
> Windows 7 pro (6.1.7601 SP1) did not recognise the device nor could it locate device drivers online...
> 
> I will let you know when I get it working!


The USB 1309 is FTDI based but it is given it's own *Curtis* *specific* VID and PID (vendor/product ID) ... USB\VID_1FA1&PID_00C8 .
It's possible to reprogram the FTDI Chip with this 1309 Curtis custom VID/PID using FTPROG from FTDI.
http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/TechnicalNotes/TN_100_USB_VID-PID_Guidelines.pdf

I have done this myself and although I can communicate with a controller the access level is defaulted to USER as there is still an error....this appears to be down to Curtis programming the chip with a specific I.D. identifier.


Sometimes missing from the software installation.
Driver Package Installer (*DPInst*)
dpinst32.exe AND *dpinst64.exe* should be present in the 1309 USB Driver folder as dpinst64.exe is required for 64 bit puters.

The 1309 config is also "silent" as the "Wizard" display is turned OFF in a small file called DPInst.xml

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<dpInst>
<suppressWizard/>
<quietInstallStrict/>
<deleteBinaries/>
</dpInst>

This can be modified in Notepad to be ...

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<dpInst>
</dpInst>

The installation progress is then displayed on screen when you click on the relevant DPInst32 or 64.exe


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## albo2 (Oct 4, 2011)

What's that about insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result, who ever thought that one up had never tried connecting to a curtis controller using Windows 7, Thanks guy's I have it working manly due to Miz saying he had to try 15 times I just tried it over and over again connected to COM 1 here's a pic of my set up


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## woodygb (Apr 7, 2013)

Here's 2 types of setups that work for me on Windows 7 64 bit on any COM port upto 8...with the OLDER 1314 SOFTWARE.
I have 3 of the blue serial leads .... 2 use the CH340 chip and work just fine ...the other uses a Prolific PL2303 and doesn't.

The TTL to Serial via an inverter chip *SN74HC14N* also works fine and seems to work happily with any type/model of USB - TTL adapter.


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## Prof plum (Dec 22, 2013)

Hi guys

I'm new on here and realise this is an old thread, but I'm looking for some help. I've got a axiom mega EV, with curtis controller. It seems to be in some sort of safe mode, which gives low power no reverse and lots of dash functions are disabled. 

Upshot is I'm looking for a the 1314 PC software download link, or failing that if someone would be willing to burn a disc with the .exe install file on that I'd be willing to pay for time, trouble, postage, etc! I really don't know where to turn with this, as the car manufacturer isn't proving much help.

Hoping someone can help me get back on the road


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## Grumpy_b (Jan 21, 2017)

I use 1314 and the 1309 serial versions all the time. 
The serial device is only able to work on 32bit operating systems, and whilst I have it running on one of my Win7 starter netbooks, all the others have to run Windows XP to function. 
I tried many Serial To USB, and used a lot of Belkin ones, these work and use the Pacific Chip set. Its the only chipset I have had success with. But the Belken adaptors seem to be very unrelaible, so I now use a good Pacific based lead. Dont expect all so called Pacific chip versions to work. The cheap ones use a ripped off chinese chip and it generally doesnt work. 
I have found a really good serial to USB On ebay, from a UK based company using what appears to be a genuine Pacific chip set and has a 2m cable. Very good and costs under £8.00
Connecting the Spyglass lead to a serial connection , and something like Hyperterminal, will only show you the data displayed on the Spyglass.


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## martinwinlow (Sep 22, 2009)

Hi all,

I'm having trouble getting my Aixam Mega City electric controller to connect to the programming software. The controller in question is a Curtis 1244. I had a 'Precharge Fault' when in the car and so I have it out on the bench and am trying to access it with the Curtis programming software (V3.12) running on an XP laptop before I go any further with a diagnosis and, hopefully, repair.

So, I gather on the bench the controller requires 24V across B+ (+24VDC) and B- (0VDC) terminals and then an RS232 serial connection to a PC running the Curtis software.

Are any other connections required to be made on the controller?

Regards, Martin Winlow.


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