# warning using Elcon 'interlock' for ksi



## EVfun (Mar 14, 2010)

Good catch, thanks for sharing. There are also plenty of schemes out there that will catch a car plugged in only if there is power on the outlet. If you have lost power, or just blown that breaker, you can drive off with your car plugged in. 

I had this thought of disabling the controller if there was continuity between neutral and ground (measured with a tiny isolated DC signal. This same system could refuse to turn on the charger if there wasn't continuity between neutral and ground because that would indicate a loss of ground. Neutral and ground are tied together in 1 place in a house, the main breaker panel.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

well, one 'safe' approach would be to use a physical microswitch to a relay triggered on/off by opening/closing the door or cover to the charger plug. Not relying on seeing AC power, just physically being plugged in.

unfortunately, I do not access my plug via the fuel door.... just a plug hanging out the front of the grill. sigh. So, if I want to be REALLY fool-proof I'll have to add some kind of door/hatch and a micro-switch to interlock either the 12v key power or pack voltage ksi power.

I am thinking it will be easier/safer to find a little microswitch rated for the 12v power and just interupt the 'key-on' power to my main contactor. Anyone have a good source for cheap microswitches rated for 12v?


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## Dougnutz (Aug 22, 2011)

ugh, I was planning to use that wire...
Thanks for posting this find. I'll have to come up with a plan B.


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## notailpipe (May 25, 2010)

I was going to use this too, but happened to talk to Dtbaker about this in an email thread. I sorta like the idea of the gas lid door switch, but I don't like the though of fiddling on the floor looking for something and accidentally opening the gas lid (okay, I'm not likely to do this but maybe someone borrowing the car) and they've now lost control driving the car, potentially on the highway.

I think I'd prefer to take my chances that the AC power is down AND at the same time I forget I'm charging and just drive away. Much safer than the failure mode in the gas-lid switch. Not to mention I've never had a power outage where I live in the last five years...

So I'll just need to find a relay activated by 120/240VAC...


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

That's not very useful....

wonder if elcon would reprogram it?

I know deltaQ does it, not sure why the elcon would even allow that, what use would that interloc be?


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

frodus said:


> That's not very useful....
> 
> wonder if elcon would reprogram it?
> 
> I know deltaQ does it, not sure why the elcon would even allow that, what use would that interloc be?



I dunno, seems silly to have it come back on while plugged in when charge finishes... I did email them with a suggestion, but perhaps they need to hear it from others. 


http://www.elconchargers.com - and 'contact' them!


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## madmike8 (Jun 16, 2011)

couldn't you make a circuit that when the voltage drops on the wire that it opens a relay, and place a momentary switch next to your charge plug that resets the circuit. That way you will always have to push the button next to. The cord before driving off...

Hopefully that's clear medication has me a bit cloudy today...


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## frodus (Apr 12, 2008)

the circuitry is already in the elcon, it's just programmed incorrectly for most of the people out there using an interlock.

you could do some little circuit, but it has to operate at both 120V and 240V


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## lowcrawler (Jun 27, 2011)

What if you ran your charging cord over your windsheild. Then you'd see it before you drove off every time.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

lowcrawler said:


> What if you ran your charging cord over your windsheild. Then you'd see it before you drove off every time.


now THERE's a mech. e solution. fergit the 'lectronic stuff!


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## notailpipe (May 25, 2010)

notailpipe said:


> I was going to use this too, but happened to talk to Dtbaker about this in an email thread. I sorta like the idea of the gas lid door switch, but I don't like the though of fiddling on the floor looking for something and accidentally opening the gas lid (okay, I'm not likely to do this but maybe someone borrowing the car) and they've now lost control driving the car, potentially on the highway.
> 
> I think I'd prefer to take my chances that the AC power is down AND at the same time I forget I'm charging and just drive away. Much safer than the failure mode in the gas-lid switch. Not to mention I've never had a power outage where I live in the last five years...
> 
> So I'll just need to find a relay activated by 120/240VAC...


Update. Relays that support a 120/240VAC input (my charger takes both) run 40 to 80 bucks! So, gas lid switch it is 

I ordered this switch off Digikey. It has both NC and NO connections possible, which is great since I'm not sure yet how I'll actually use it.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

notailpipe said:


> I ordered this switch off Digikey. It has both NC and NO connections possible, which is great since I'm not sure yet how I'll actually use it.


looks pretty good.... not rated for DC, but really should not have to ever 'break' DC current. I am contemplating adding something like this such that my plug is under a weatherproof 'door' (outside outlet cover) mounting thru the front bumper since thats where my cord/charger is..... I see no reason to run anything all the way back to the fuel fill cover because I'd have to add a conduit to carry the charger cord and the 12v+ wire up and back.

I'll bet you paid more in shipping than for the switch?! Did they not have anything at your local HW or radio shack?


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## notailpipe (May 25, 2010)

Yeah, it'll work fine for DC since it's not really carrying any current (capacitive load on the controller input). 

I always lump my orders. You're right, otherwise it wouldn't be worth it. I got a high-quality potentiometer for my own home-brew throttle, fuse holders, and a bunch of fuses, too.


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## notailpipe (May 25, 2010)

dtbaker said:


> Did they not have anything at your local HW or radio shack?


And I hate RadioScraps!


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## MN Driver (Sep 29, 2009)

I never find anything at radioshack, not even the simplest stuff when I was looking for it a decade ago, not its just worse. If I ask for something I always get told where the nearest real electronics component store is, which is helpful until I find that store directing me to Digikey for something simple that I'd expect them to have. Oh well. Thank you Internet shopping! Too bad minimum quantities and shipping costs can make things harder for us DIY folk.


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