# Low Budget EV (I hope)



## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

What about a 1993 geo metro? 5 speed. Someone here locally has one but they want $1000. It's running and I think good body and interior and good tires. I haven't gone to look at it though.

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bar/1021787432.html










Dan


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## slurryguy (Dec 16, 2008)

Seems like a steep price for a '93 Metro donor.

Please define, "low budget".


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## Guest (Feb 6, 2009)

The truck is heavy and won't be cheap. Cheap being $3k or less. Your best bet is a small light weight vehicle like the Metro or VW or something. Don't buy a rust bucket. Be frugal and you may even get something free or nearly free. Electric motors can be found for decent prices but you must be patient and do your homework on them first. You want one with a normal shaft rather than a splined shaft for easier use and setup. You will most likely need to build your own adaptor plate but that can be done too or maybe you can find a motor with an adaptor. There are many good cheap ideas around here. They do work. As for the batteries, for a 72 volt system you most likely won't get cheaper than $900 for a pack. Then you need to get at least 2/0 welding cable and lugs for connecting the batteries. So it won't be dirt cheap but you can do it on a budget. Mine is so far just under $3500 including the price of the vehicle. 

http://inertext.homeunix.com/electricvw

As for contactor style speed controllers, they do work but have fallen out of favor because they can fail full on and weld together and be almost impossible to knock loose if they do fail. A separate contactor for safety would work. The other problem is they are jerky and not so fun. They work. If you use a contactor style speed control then you need to utilize your transmission to help smooth out the jerky motion of the contactors. The original Kaylor EV kits for the VW used a contactor style speed control and utilized the stock transmission to smooth out the jerkies. I have one of those and coupled it to a modern controller and it works perfect. PM me about the Kaylor stuff. Find a bug or buggie and put one of these in and you will have a cheap budget ev. There is lots of good help around here and EVDL also. 

Welcome to the world of Electric vehicles. 

Pete : )


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

dolinick said:


> ...my prime candidates are a 1974 Chevy Nova (2 door)...
> 
> Dan


Do the Nova then post pics. 

That way I will be able to see what mine will look like. 

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o42/jaynethecat/74-NOVA-HB.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Mad4Morgans/350NOVAHB2.jpg


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

Here's a few truly Low budget EVs:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/ben-nelsons-electro-metro-build-thread-848.html

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-car-conversion-project-forkenswift-33.html

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-ev-conversion-2373.html

Also, an Open Source Controller in the Works:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404.html

I love the Net!


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

Oh, I almost forgot one:

http://www.rqriley.com/urba-e.html

From the description, it sounds like they used an Amp Limiter on the motor, with the CVT keeping the motor from over-revving. The plans also include a 'stepper controller'(whatever that is). Once I start my new job in a few weeks, i'll be purchasing these plans, if only for the Controller options(and the wiring, and the Suspension...).


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## madderscience (Jun 28, 2008)

I'd keep the nice Nova as is, and trade the F-100 for a compact pickup like a Nissan or a Toyota from the 70's or 80's. Much better donor. Decent chance of finding a straight across trade if you are patient. But again, steer clear of rust buckets. Obviously you Don't need a runner though, but it would be good if the tranny were healthy.

You can lose the bed or cut it down to make just a battery box back there to reduce weight, or just cover the bed and use it as the battery box as-is. Do take advantage of the space in a truck and add battery insulate (builders foam, cheap!) as it will help with range in the winter. 

Do a 72V conversion but the last 2 places to scrimp are the controller and the batteries. Batteries are a really good example of you-get-what-you-pay-for, and you can get a good 72V used alltrax or curtis controller on ebay for a few hundred. It will be far more pleasurable to drive and far safer than a contactor setup. You can score contactors, cabling, etc. and maybe a motor from 72V forklifts, golf carts, and the like for some of the smaller components. With care you can build a charger fairly cheaply (but you will have to carefully monitor it so that overcharge is not a problem). With 72V brakes and suspension upgrades should not be necessary as you should be well within GVW.

Performance for such a setup will probably be top speed around 40mph. Range if you figure about 3 or 4 miles of usable range per 100lbs of lead acid batteries. Given your described situation that should be adequate.

Good Luck.


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

Yall are very helpful! I am getting more and more confident reading your responses. I think depending on the price of the donor car I'd like to spend about $2000.00 on the project. I was thinking about trading the trucks to get the Metro. I actually have two short-bed F100s. One is a '67 and one is a '68 they both have some good points such as one good engine or excellent steel grille but the bodies on both are pretty rough.

I will keep the nova as is for now. I also have my "old truck". It's a 1971 F100 long wheelbase. I've owned it longer than the other trucks and just recently got a "hotrod" donor engine put it. It will be the total opposite to my EV. It's alter ego. You know with the V8 engine, headers, Holley four barrel carburetor, etc...

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I don't know anything about these forklifts but they are electric and come with a charger. The one he is asking $1000 doesn't have a battery. I need to find out if these would have suitable sized motors for a Geo Metro sized conversion with probably a 72 volt system and the car will easily go 40 mph.

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bfs/1021079234.html









I know I need to do my research. I think the price is a little steep perhaps.
Will this forklift provide anything besides the motor? Electronics, speed control, contactor, etc...

Thanks,

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

There is a not bad looking 1983 Chevette for sale nearby:

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/ctd/1015395018.html










they may be asking too much at $900

UPDATE: I already bought this Chevette! It's an '82 and it runs and drive's great. The air conditioner works (according to the previous owner) if you put freon in it. The body is not that bad. I'll probably just align the driver door and slap some paint on it to match the rest of the car. The tires are new and it came with new brake shoes. It's a four speed. All the gaskets in the doors and windows are good and the trunk and passenger door open and close perfectly. Anyway, I paid $450 for it. I can probably sell the motor and all ICE stuff. The back seat is missing which is good. I would relocate the driver's seat back a few inches also because I am so tall that it's hard for me to steer the car without my hands hitting my legs. I also can't really find or see the gas pedal. I was wearing size 11 steel toe work boots. I won't be able to wear these shoe probably while driving this car. I'll need some smaller "tennis shoes" or something. Driving an electric car would be a good motivation for me to lose some weight. I am 6'4" and 340 pounds.


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

As far as that forklift goes-$1000 isn't too bad if all the components are in working order. Will the owner be willing to hook some batteries up for a demo?

Assuming everything works, you can count on using the motor, a lot of the cabling and connectors and many of the gauges. The Controller will be set to the default Voltage of the lift(usually 36v or 48v) so unless you want a very low-power EV you can forget the stock-unless you have the skill to alter it to a higher voltage. Make sure to check the lifting mechanism-some varieties of lift use a second DC motor for the hydraulics/winch and you might be able to use that one for a lightweight EV project such as a powered Bicycle or Scooter.

Don't forget-what you can't use you are likely able to part out and sell(craigslist or Ebay) to recoup some of your initial costs.


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I called a couple of times about the forklift but I didn't get a response. I'm hoping I can contact the owner on Monday.

I don't know what voltage I am going to try to run yet. I don't know enough to start considering speed or range yet. This car is supposed to weigh close to 2000 pounds stock.

I picked up the car tonight and drove it home. It's really fun to drive. 40 mph feels really fast because your so close to the road.

I'll post some pictures shortly...

I measured the roof and hood and came up with 4200 square inches of surface area. If you filled up every square inch of space with high power solar panels would this be any benefit whatsoever to your range or at least comfort level. Perhaps running cooling fans or heating elements. I guess it would have to be further north on a cold sunny day to use the heater so I guess that benefit is rather limited especially here in south texas. But it would produce current all day while the car is parked. For a commuter who lives in a very sunny climate. You could even unfold them for more surface area when the car is parked. I know they would possibly add extra weight to the vehicle but I'm just trying to get ideas. I also realize these panels can be expensive. I am going to build my own panels soon from factory seconds or chipped/broken cells for an off-grid power setup.

Later I want to calculate the amount of power I will need to charge my batteries using a combination of wind turbine solar and maybe hydro power. It would be sweet to be able to charge your batteries for "free".

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

Is this something?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190284478162&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=









The auction says: *KB Electric Variable Speed DC Motor Control KBCC-225SR*


I am also watching an auction for a 1hp motor rated at 180 volts and 1750 rpm max rpm 5500.

I might be able to use a motor like that to generate power. I am building some vertical axis wind turbines from 55 gallon drums...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350161391144&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=









Dan


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## Guest (Feb 9, 2009)

Oh you had to go and do that didn't you. I can't wait now to hear what you got. Ghia? 4200 sq inches is not much useful space for solar. Best to save the solar for a solar garage to charge your pack. It takes a bit to produce a good amount of power for charging via solar. You can install panels but you won't get a lot from it. Every bit helps but you may want to spend that money elsewhere first. Remember you are on a tight budget. Think KISS before you decide. I have a 72 volt pack and my charger has to produce like 86 volts at 15 amps to charge the pack. So you must have a solar charging station that will produce that amount in x amount of time. Not all days will be good solar days like today for us. You are talking of using solar, hydro and wind to make a charging station. All good but you are not thinking in the KISS range of things right now. They are all good and well but those things are still quite expensive to get up and going. I build my EV on the very simple KISS method and it works great. We happen to be all solar here but the solar system was not cheap. 


Come on come on, the suspense is killing me! Whadya Get?

: )




dolinick said:


> I called a couple of times about the forklift but I didn't get a response. I'm hoping I can contact the owner on Monday.
> 
> I don't know what voltage I am going to try to run yet. I don't know enough to start considering speed or range yet. This car is supposed to weigh close to 2000 pounds stock.
> 
> ...


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## Guest (Feb 9, 2009)

Dan,

Aaaaah! Building your own. Nice. Pico Turbine? Which one? Been looking at building a small one for experience but I want build the small alternator for it too.

I can't say about those motors being used for generating power. They may work but you'd be better off using some that have a proven track record and try to find some of those.






dolinick said:


> I might be able to use a motor like that to generate power. I am building some vertical axis wind turbines from 55 gallon drums...
> 
> 
> Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

gottdi said:


> Come on come on, the suspense is killing me! Whadya Get?
> 
> : )


I thought I mentioned it. I must have forgot. It's the 1982 Chevette! It's cute! 










It has brand new tires and new clutch. It has Air Conditioning but needs Freon. I expect another Chevette enthusiast will want the Engine and all related systems. That way I can recoup some of the $450.00 which I paid for the vehicle. It runs great. The other side has been wrecked but I think I can straighten out the damage and paint it myself for very little expense.

Dan


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## Guest (Feb 9, 2009)

That works.


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## Guest (Feb 9, 2009)

Ooops, I guess you did mention that. I did not see that post. My bad. Excellent deal.


: )


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

Okay, I got my Chevette photos online. No, I didn't buy it from Carmax. I was just passing by contemplating some beige paint at Lowes and decided it would make a good photo op.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dolinick/sets/72157613532662724/

The previous owner purchased the car about 1 year ago because gas prices were out of whack. Now he is through with it. He used to drive it 55 miles a day 5 days a week. He said it used very little gas. I kind of hate to convert a perfectly good running car but someone else will be able to use the old ICE components in their Chevette restoration project. And yes the toilet came with the car. I saw it in the back of his truck and asked him what he was going to do with it. I need it for the cabin I am building myself. I already found a free sink and fiberglass shower surround for the bathroom.

Unfortunately the car has some body damage. It isn't as bad as it looks or at least I think I can hide it pretty easily if not fix it right.










I am suspicious that this car has very low miles or at least has been garage kept. Look how clean it is.










Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

*Re: Low Budget EV (chEVette)*

I am moving fairly quickly. I think I may have found an electric forklift donor.

The owner emailed me about it today. He might give me the model number or even the specs on the motor tomorrow but I can't go look at it until Wednesday. It's a yale three wheel sit down forklift with dead batteries. That's all I know. Oh, it comes with a charger I believe.





















I gave my car a bath and spray painted the red door so it would match a little better. Maybe I'll upload pictures after the paint has dried. I didn't do any body work. I just painted what was there. It still looks bad and the paint doesn't match. I used almond colored Rustoleum. 

This car runs and drives good! I don't know if I want to proceed with the conversion or just drive it for a while. I topped off the fuel tank and it only cost $14.00 for premium gasoline. (now I don't really know if there is any benifit to running the higher octane in this car). I checked the tires and they only had 20 psi in them. I filled them up to 44 psi and It steers and drives much better. I am pretty sure they are rated for 44. Otherwise I'll let a little air out. 

I had an idea to use the old ICE engine for a generator trailer for unlimited range. But that's another whole ball of wax I know nothing about. That way if I want to go on a long trip I could. ​









And in other news I bought a BIG motor for a DIY wind turbine project I am also working on. It's 1 hp and 40 pounds. I think it might also be good for an electric vehicle of some sort. Maybe motorcycle or go-kart. It was $57.00 and $45.00 for shipping. This is the info from the ebay listing: _*RELIANCE ELECTRIC RPM XL 1 HP DC MOTOR (GOOD CONDITION)*_
_*# T56S1013A*_
_*FR: MF0056HC*_
_*HP: 1*_
_*RPM: 1750*_
_*V: 180*_
_*AMP: 4.8*_
_*MAX SAFE SPEED: 5500*_
_*TOTAL WEIGHT 40 LBS. BUYER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL SHIPPING/HANDLING CHARGES*_


























​
There is another motor on ebay no one has bid on. Starting bid is $300.00 and the auction ends in less than 12 hours. I also want to know why this motor is so heavy. If it wasn't so heavy it seems like a good candidate for an EV. Of course I don't know enough about motors to say that. Here is the info from the ebay listing:

*RELIANCE ELELCTRIC RPM III DC MOTOR (GOOD CONDITION)*
*FR: MC3612ATZ*
*HP: 25*
*ENCL: TENY*
*RPM: 1750/2300*
*V: 500*
*AMP: 40.50*
*FIELD DATA:*
*WINDING: STR.SHUNT*
*V: 300*
*A: 2.04*
*HOT AMP: 1.44/1.15*
*THIS AUCTION DOES NOT QUALIFY FOR THE SHIPPING CACULATOR, IF YOU WOULD LIKE A SHIPPING QUOTE PLEASE EMAIL US.*
*TOTAL WEIGHT 1750 LBS. BUYER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL SHIPPING/HANDLING CHARGES*


*







*


*







*


*








*​

There are a couple of Chevette's listed on ebay. I don't know if anyone is looking for one. Are there any electric Chevette's out there that you know of?


Thanks,


Dan


​


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I'm losing my mind. I dropped into Alamo City Golf Cars today. I was going into the electronics store next door to ask about bridge rectifiers and blocking diodes for my wind turbine project. I had been at Henry's Masonry across the street looking for ceramic tile adhesive and liquid nails. The man who worked there was nice and gave me the number of a guy who worked with electric vehicles for a long time at Kelly AFB. It turns out that there is a perfectly good. (it could have issues) 72 volt electric truck sitting right there and it belongs to the guy whose number he gave me. He said he wants $2200.
From what I have read here I should not hesitate. It is worth it! It has everything. I think he even got a new controller because the problem was with the old controller. Okay I'll go back over there and take photos if you like.

Help,

Dan


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## Guest (Feb 11, 2009)

Check that one out for sure. Even if not every thing is perfect but if it has it all then it could be a good find. Take good photos and put up a site for us to see. We all like photos! : )


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

gottdi said:


> Check that one out for sure. Even if not every thing is perfect but if it has it all then it could be a good find. Take good photos and put up a site for us to see. We all like photos! : )


Yeah, the owner/manager or whatever from the golf car sales/repair/rental place told me it was good just need someone to know how to set it up. I guess he just wants it gone and is tired of looking at it and taking up space at his shop.

I got a tip about two 36 volt golf carts way in the back at some salvage yard on the southwest side of town. I would have gone to look but ran out of steam and time. I haven't researched anything about dual motor setups but saw it mentioned once on this site.

I got a rectifier for my wind turbine project today. I don't know if it's the one I need. I remember reading about needing a "blocking" diode for wind generators to keep the motor from running "backward" when there's no wind and draining your battery bank. I also don't know what size fuse/breaker I need. Hmm, I've got a long way to go and not ready to tackle EV electronics yet. I am motivated to learn and need a little more patience. 

I also am interested in what I think yall are referring to as "open source" controller. I think I could build one if i had a parts list and PCB design layout. I made my own etched pcb for a blinking red led when I was a kid almost 20 years ago.  Electronics always fascinated me but I never really got the theory down. I studied it some more in community college and actually graduated but never got it down. I continued to drive a tractor trailer rig until recently when I quit cold turkey!

Dan


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

So...did you end up buying the 72V truck? Enquiring minds want to know!


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

order99 said:


> So...did you end up buying the 72V truck? Enquiring minds want to know!


No, I came to my senses. I did offer him $1000 because I believed it had enough good parts to justify that. He talked to me for 45 minutes and I didn't make an offer. He sounded like he was talking me out of it. Very negative or just bringing me back to reality. I don't think he realizes what can be done to make it work on a budget. He said I would end up having to spend thousands more. I guess the battery back (12 golf cart batteries?) could be pretty pricey. Everything is jumbled in my head right now. I called him back and told him that was more than my budget would allow but I could really use that truck. He said there were some other people interested. I think I played it pretty well. Now, when no one is willing to give him what he wants he can come back to me. Or do I contact him again inquiring if it has been sold?

So far I spent $450 on the car. I had the door adjusted today. I dropped by a body shop who had done work on my mom's car. He said for fifty bucks they would align the door so it closes properly. I pointed out that their was a crack where the hinge meets the body and he said he would charge more for welding. I ended up giving him $60. He offered me $450.00 for the car right there on the spot. He wanted it for his son. I told him I'd take a grand. I wasn't really willing to sell it though. He told me about how he and his friends used to take the hatchback off of their chevette and use it as a truck hauling two 55 gallon barrels of oil. I think he said it must have been about 800 pounds. These seem to be tough little cars. They are rear wheel drive. I'm having the brakes done in the morning. It's going to be another $70. I spent about $15.00 for sand paper and spray paint. I should have masked the car better and I got the color wrong but it's only temporary.


















​This car has some kind of add on air conditioning system. It's mounted under the dash. I think I'll try to get it working and keep it after the conversion. I was reading about air conditioning options. I think a seperate motor to run the compressor may be the way to go.

I haven't slept much the last couple of days. I should be sleeping now. I am supposed to meet a guy in the afternoon downtown to look at that yale forklift. 

I also most likely will try to go look at the two golf carts I was told are in a salvage yard in town. I don't know enough about what I need but I'll get information and take photos. I need to find out if dual motors mounted to my transmission is an option. Is there any benefit of having two low voltage motors running together? I also need to find out how much over GVWR I can go if needed. What modifications can or need to be done. Springs and shocks and possibly tires. 

What do you think about those Yale forklifts. How much money can you get for the parts you don't need? I think that is going to be an important part of actually sticking to a budget.

I made a breakthru with my wind turbine project today. I purchased a bridge rectifier. Now when the motor spins it produces DC instead of ac when connected to the rectifier. I think it produces 12 volts at about 300 or 350 rpm with no load attached. I don't know if this is good enough to charge any batteries but a trickle charge is a good start. I hope I am on the right track. When connected to a small children's electric motorcycle motor the small motor would run when I spun the "generator" by hand and of course spun much faster when I spun the generator with my bicycle's rear tire. 










I dont know anything about the rectifier except that it handles 50 amps and it cost 10 bucks. Is the output filtered? I don't even know if that is the right terminology. Anyway the generator has two wires which produce ac when attached with the black (ground?) wire. If I connect a rectifier to the other wire can I double my voltage or current you think? There is black, red, white, and green on the "motor control" lead. And it produces ac when the motor is spun. If I short the black to red or black to white The motor is difficult to turn by hand and you can feel it cogging. If you short black, red and white then it is hard to turn but turns smooth. with all the wires loose it spins very freely.

I am going to connect the generator to the turbine with a belt and pulley system I think. I need to figure out what size pulleys and what wind speed is optimum to start producing enough voltage to charge 12 volt batteries.
My predesessor says his turbine doesn't start charging until the wind speed it 15 mph because his smaller gear(the generator gear) is too big.











​
Dan​


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## ccal525 (Feb 6, 2009)

Did you look at the forklift? If so how did it go?


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

ccal525 said:


> Did you look at the forklift? If so how did it go?


I did. It went good I think. I was running late and when I got there the owner was still waiting for me. He had met some other people but I was the last one. The price of $1000 is pretty firm. I got photos of the serial number and info plate. He said they did some work on it before the batteries died because of an electrical problem. I wish I could remember the problem. Then it was fixed but the batteries only hold a charge for a short time. It is a 36 volt forklift. He lives out of town so I have to call ahead to meet him again if I want to go look or buy it. I will also need to rent/borrow a trailer. I should go read Forkenswift probably. Is it possible to modify the controller for a higher voltage? 

I also went to River City Golf Cars and took some photos of the Taylor Dunn 72 volt truck. It has a huge motor.

I didn't have time or feel like driving across town to see the golf carts in the auto salvage yard but I will probably go soon. Also River City may be able to help me find some parts or a deal on a used golf cart if I go talk to them some more or wait.

While I was taking picures of the truck River City Golf Cars was already closed and it was getting dark. There wasn't anyone there so when I saw a burned up 24-48 volt Alltrax 400 amp controller on the ground next to the trash can I grabbed it and took it home. I thought about it and decided I might as well steal it. Anyway, on the way home I had the feeling that all the wiring in my car was burning up. It has such a strong burnt odor. I had to put it out on the porch because I can't stand sitting next to it.
I am going to open it up and take a look inside. Most likely impossible or impractical to fix but you never know.



















Wind Turbine Update: I got my rectifier working so I am anxious to test out the wind turbine and connect the charge controller inverter and battery bank. I went to San Antonio Belting and Pulley Co. and purchased a 10 inch pulley, two bearings with flanges and a belt. I got an axle from the electrical section at lowes. It's a 1 inch metal conduit. I also picked up a few 2x4s to build a frame. I am going to attempt to mount my 55 gallon drum to the pulley and mount it and my generator in the frame. It won't be long till I can actually test it outside in the wind. I have the ratio about 5 to 1. When the vertical axis turbine rotates once the motor pulley will rotate 5 times. Hopefully this will produce enough voltage to charge batteries in a light or moderate wind. I don't know if it is actually going to work or if it DOES work how many amps it will generate but I am about to find out. 

I am uploading pictures.... You can see THE TRUCK in a few minutes! 

I almost forgot. I had the brakes looked at today and the car had a bad master cylinder so I had it replaced. That cost $92.00 I have to be careful about the "budget" but the cars gotta have brakes. He said it wasn't that easy to replace. I think because of confined spaces in the little car.

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I finally uploaded lots of pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dolinick/sets/72157613532662724/

I just found this (golf cart?) car on craigslist. The ad is already five days old! I hope they still have it! I called the number tonight even though it was after 10 p.m. An answering machine picked up and it only says "Hello." *beep* and then disconnects. Maybe the answering machine is full from everyone calling to buy this electric car.  He's asking $200.00 but says it "needs work".
*"48V Electric car, needs work $200.00. Contact Stan 830-914-***" *
*http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/for/1024641969.html







*

Here is the Electric Truck for sale. It is supposed to have some problem with the wiring or controller. I am not sure.



































I wanted something for reference and the only thing I had was a dollar bill.
Big Motor isn't it?


















Here is the info plate on the forklift I looked at today.



















The first link at the top of this message is for all the images. You can also view larger versions on that page.

Dan​


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

It sounds like you actually have more options than you know what to do with! So far i'm seeing:

A 72V truck(needs batteries, right?)No idea about the performance, sorry.

A cheap Commutacar (needs work-batteries are in the bumpers on this one, so Batteries, Bumper, maybe new Contactors and some wiring). The model is a reliable little thing with a 35-40 mile range but top speed is also 40MPH or less.

A Donor car(that runs pretty well as is) and a lead on a Forklift(usable motor, wiring maybe Contactors) and a free low-Voltage Controller that might work.

I won't tell you which way to jump-but your options seem to be:

1) The 72V truck and a few thousand on Batteries.
2) Buy and GUT the truck, place everything in the Donor car for better performance, add batteries.
3) Buy the Commutacar for a low-speed commute, repair it and grab about 8 6V batteries. If the free 48V Controller works you can replace the original Contactor Array with it for a smoother ride. Keep the Chevette as is for longer trips than the EV will handle.
4) Grab the forklift, grab other parts as needed, grab the batteries, grab the Donor car and grab a wrench. The Controller you have(if it works) won't get you a Highway-speed vehicle, you'll need a higher Voltage one.

Options 1, 2 and 4 will cost some money but you should have a sweet EV when you're done. Option 3 will likely be less expensive but may not get you the performance you want-decisions, decisions, hmmm?

Speaking as somebody too poor to Electrify his Bicycle right now, I wish I had your dilemma...


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

Thanks, I need the input. It's probably a good idea for me to keep looking around and doing research. I dont' know the kind of batteries or how many and how much they are going to cost.

Taking all the parts from the truck and converting the Chevette seems attractive because of the possibility of higher performance and someday higher range.

If I go for lower power and slower speeds like I originally said I wanted maybe I can get some really good parts for cheap.

I have more questions to ask like what about a dual motor system? Can you use two 36 volt controllers? One for each motor? There are supposed to be 2 golf carts in the junk yard. Perhaps they both have good motors and if I'm lucky controllers.

Someone was converting a fiero I think and someone else suggested making thier own battery packs out of D sized cells. I don't know what kind of batteries they are or how expensive but this idea is interesting because you could stuff the battieres in the cavities in the doors and or body of the Chevette. Not only would the weigh be evenly distributed perhaps it will help lower the center of gravity and also help keep the cargo space open.

Are their hobbyists here who build EV conversions just to sell? Is it profitable?

I talked to my mechanic today when he was replacing the master cylinder on the Chevette. He said he could remove the entire ICE system and help me crate it up for shipping. I wonder if I can sell it to someone restoring a Chevette or other similar car.


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

Craigslist is always a good bet for auto parts-Ebay's not bad but the fees are getting a little higher lately, still decent though.

Golf Cart motors? If you build light enough you can get a decent EV. Belt or Chain drive is good for a low-speed vehicle, you may want a tranny for higher speeds...i've seen several EV Motorcycles on this forum with Golf Cart sized motors if you want a two-wheeled option. My local dealer tell me that Golf Cart Controllers are deliberately limited for speeds of under 20 MPH-but who knows, maybe your local contact would know some EV dealers, or know how to alter the settings on the Controllers...heck, he might have a ratted-out Cart nobody wants and will quote you a nice price, then you have a Motorbike or Scooter at least!

Sounds like you're set on the Chevette conversion though, meaning:

Powerful Motor and Controller running 72V-144V performances.
Batteries of 100Ahr-200Ahr (the higher Voltage you run, the better efficiency you get on the Amp draw).
Contactor, Switches, Cabling, DC/DC Convertor (for the headlights etc)
Heating Element (defroster at least)
Boosted Suspension(MAYBE, depends on weight)
Enhanced Brakes(MAYBE again)
$$$$$ 

The good news is that you don't have to have a car RIGHT NOW since you have decent transport-you can afford to take your time, wait for a nice Scavenged item or a bargain, research, save up more cash, make measurements etc. 

I feel just as impatient though. When the money starts flowing again i'm going to start small-a powered Bicycle. I can regurgitate what i've learned on the Web forever, but it means nothing until I get my hands dirty...so my next project will be a Bicycle-parts-and-Coroplast Trike at 24V-36V. This will let me use cheap Bike Controllers off Ebay, used Batteries with maybe a year's life left in them, a 1972 VW Generator and JUNK so that I can blow stuff up for a few $100 or less. Once i'm satisfied I can apply what i've read, i'll go for the real thing-a City-El/Twike handcrafted EV for possibly under $8000! 

But...the...waiting....is....hard....

Check the Motors Subforum for Dual-motor/Controller configs, i've seen quite a few lately. As far as Selling EVs for a living-i've seen several Posters let go of their EVs. I don't think any of them do it for a living though...in fact many of them seem to sell one just to make room for ANOTHER EV project! I like the way they think!


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## Coley (Jul 26, 2007)

Take a look at the golf carts and see how the motors are fit to the rear end.

A lot of them have a splined shaft and NO rear bearing, (the pinion shaft on the rear end supports the rear of the motor armature).

Also, not enough HP to be usefull.

Most early carts are not worth picking up as far as parts for an EV.


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

Found some Dual-motor topics:

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/dual-motor-setup-27357.html

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...riving-front-wheels-independentlyi-27437.html


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

Thank you all so much for the input. I hope to reread this thread and all the links a few times. It's too much information all at once.

At least selling my two trucks may help fund the project.

Anyway, I think my Chevette project may have just been sidetracked today. I may have to put it on the side for now. I can still drive it as is. It's really convenient and economical. I like the hatchback. The only hatchback I ever owned was a Bronco II 4x4. I can put lots of tools in the back. My mother's wheel chair fits back there. Also my mountain bike can even fit witht the hatch closed. I hauled three 2x4x10s and come 10 foot conduit in the Chevette the other day. I had to leave the hatch open. but i digress...

I found that 48 volt commutacar thing yesterday on Craigslist. He only wanted $200 so I figured I had nothing to lose and picked it up. I had to rent a trailer even though (in hindsight) we probably could have put it in the back of my pick-up. I don't know exactly what's wrong with it. It could just be the lack of batteries. I have some deep cells here I bought for my off-grid cabin project but only 3. I also have a couple of car batteries. Maybe at some point I can hook them up and see if it works. Sadly I don't really think I can sit in it. It's too small. Maybe we can cut the top off. 

I haven't even had a chance to look at it yet. I just parked it in my driveway. It came with a LARGE manual and even a texas title. I just have to transfer it to my name and register it I suppose...

I'll be uploading pictures of course! I probably won't have a chance to really check it out till saturday since I have lots of work to do on friday.

Since the car may be too small for me I was thinking we could force my nephew to drive it to school. He'll be getting his license this summer.

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

The electric car.









































































and now for something completely different...










I figured I'd put the ole nova in "storage" for a while since I had the trailer. I dropped off the car and picked up one of the F100s which is for sale.










Dan​


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I haven't had time to get into the commuter car yet. I suppose I should start reading the manual and possibly hook up a few batteries. It has some strange batteries under the seat. Man, why don't I take some more photos? Maybe in the morning. I'll be taking photos of my two trucks for sale. They are supposed to help fund this project but I already started spending the money.

What kind of motor controller can I use in the electric car? Do I need to find out what type of motor it has first? It's supposed to be a 48 volt system. Can or should I try for more voltage. I don't know if that thing would be safe at higher speeds. What about range? Is there an inexpensive way to get 100 mile range with it. I have a place 50 miles away but I don't necessarily have any power to charge it with when I'm down there. Maybe I'll have a 50-100 watts of wind turbine and or solar panels soon and three or four of deep cycle 12 volt battery bank. I'm starting with an 800 watt inverter if that tells you anything.


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

Nothing wrong with a Commutacar! It's supposed to be a rugged little thing and will let you get your hands dirty-and it's just the right voltage to test your Alltrax on.

There are several Commutacar and CityCar owners on the Ecomodder forums:

http://ecomodder.com/

And it's a great place for Fuel Efficiency advice on the Chevette since you're keeping it Gas-powered for awhile...my '93 Festiva shot up from 42 to 47MPG after a month of stealing ideas, and all i've done so far is modify my driving habits and cut out some plastic wheelcovers for better airflow! 

Don't worry about Info Overload, this site's not going anywhere-I hope....


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

No, that alltrax was toast. It was interesting opening it up though.  Black sticky stinky residue everywhere and all you could see of the circuit was the big capacitors sticking up out of what looks like epoxy resin. 

Yeah, It's really a neat little vehicle. I never thought I'd own one I guess.

Dan


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## order99 (Sep 8, 2008)

Too bad about the Alltrax. Hopefully the original Controller still works. It's probably a Contactor Controller which runs at Parallel set+resistor(12V) Parallel set without Resistor(24V) and Series(48V). Because of this I doubt you can go above 48V on this car-on the other hand Contactor Controllers are supposedly more durable and easier to fix.

Here's a few schematics:

http://www.didik.com/citdiag.htm

( I don't bring much to the table, but my Search-fu ain't bad!) 

I imagine you could Overvolt the Commutacar if you want-you'll need to find a working PWM Controller (like that Alltrax) with a 48-72V range, then you could go 60V or 72V. I don't know if the motor itself would like 72V, but i've heard of a few 60V upgrades tooling around...where they placed the extra Batteries God only knows!


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

The commutacar came with a large book of instructions and schematics. I'll try to get everything scanned soon. It's a lot of information.

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I have some pictures of the schematics, manuals, and sales brochures which came with my Commuta-Car online:

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...and-schematics-27958.html?p=103190#post103190

Danhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/dolinick/sets/72157613879612208/?photo_deleted=3275545733

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I went ahead and purchased this controller. I hope it is suitable for the commutacar. I understand 250 amps won't necessarily give you lots of acceleration but the commuta-car is very small and light. I was told I need 8 6 volt golf cart batteries to run the car.


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I purchased a 48 volt Power Drive charger from a club car. It seemed like a good price. It was $149.00 plus $30.00 for shipping. It is used but should be in good working order. I hope it will work with my commutacar.

Today I started cleaning out the Commmuta-Car. I removed the two large "cube" batteries which were under the seat. They are very heavy. I am assuming they are too old and non-functional. There is an old 12 volt battery charger that was also under the sea. Next to the contactors is a huge "transformer looking thing". I don't know how it all works but it seems less complicated and less intimidating now after looking it over and getting all the junk out of the way.

There was a box of parts behind the seats and it had misc power cables and a bunch of brake parts. The master cylinder is missing so that will be one of the next things I'll need to find. I can see the two flared brake lines behind where the master cylinder is supposed to be.

One rather cool find is what I believe to be the original hub caps. They are kind of rusty but restoreable.

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

Here are some new photos of my CommutaCar.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dolinick/tags/commutaphotos/show/

As you can see it needs bumpers and brakes as well as a lot of other work.

I just realized it had an odometer. Very low mileage car!

Dan


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

COOL!!

A little corrosion control, some weatherstipping from JCWhitney and a new paint job and you have a real classic!!

Do you know what the serial number is? 

http://www.didik.com/citicar.htm


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I was driving the Chevette cross country to pick up a truck and the transmission went out. This has led me to my latest plan which is to stick to my original plan: Convert The Chevette. 








​
I am considering selling or trading the Commuta-Car and continuing with my Chevette conversion. There must be people who are actually looking for a Commuta-Car (citi-car), I just happened to find one looking for EV parts.








​
I propose trading the commuta-car for either a good set of (48 volts) batteries and or good electric motor.

I know it will be slow and most likely have limited range but I just want to get the experience first. I can either upgrade it later or try a more ambititous conversion as my next project.

I think I can go with a *direct drive motor*. I will strip as much dead weight off from the car as possible. I don't think I will worry about heating or air conditioning for now.

The chevette has disk/drum hydraulic brakes, manual steering, and is rear wheel drive. It even has a small "torque tube" between the drive shaft and differential. I had an idea that if you slice through the axle on both sides of the differential and rotate it 90 degrees upward then weld it back together you could have the direct drive motor sticking straight up into the storage area under the hatchback. I can organize all the controllers, contactors, and wiring/batteries and electric motor under the glass and "show it off" with some *accent* lighting. 








​
I already have:

250 amp 48v controller







​48 volt 15 amp charger







​
Chevette (donor car)







​
I need:

pot box
motor
batteries

other items needed...
contactor
dc-dc converter (do i need this)

Or I can just sell/trade the controller and charger with the CommutaCar and start all over. I can start preparing the Chevette. The transmission is destroyed so I might as well start removing all the ICE parts. They are all in good working condition. I don't know if there is anyone out there looking to restore/repair an old chevette. I have the parts.

Also, the commuta car is complete except for batteries. It has the original contactors and motor. The brakes need to be redone. Oh, it is missing the master cylinder. And it has tons of documentation which will come with the car...


























​
Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I have put all the projects on hold for a while. I still intend on moving forward with the chevette conversion. 

I sold the ComutaCar but didn't save any money for the electric car project. I still have my eye on this 72 volt truck which has been sitting for years at a nearby golf car sales and service center. i think a 72 volt system would be fairly awesome in the chevette.

In the meantime I may park the chevette in my backyard (as i have no shop) and start some prep work. I have a lot to do without spending any money. I should start removing the ICE stuff I suppose or even prepare for some of the interior or body work but that should probably wait closer to the end.

Dan


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## Stunt Driver (May 14, 2009)

I am on the same project myself, and currently stopped by bad tranny on a donor.
Mine is Pontiac Fiero for $500, and $25 for used tranny. So far low cost.
Infact, plan to start building drivetrain on the bad tranny, while i'll drive Fiero as is. (if I can swap tranny)

Will look for forklift motor and use LA batteries along with individual chargers (got Shumacher 12A for $35 used). Controller may be the only costly part, but I want to see if it moves at all (using starter contractors to commutate power) before I invest in one.


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

a man actually rang my doorbell and said he had another chevette. it seems cheap enough and actually has some parts i could use. maybe a windshield, backseat, oh and a transmission maybe. It couldn't hurt to have a spare anyway I suppose. I had almost forgotten about that car. I need to go take a look. hopefully it is still available.

i am big and tall and sort of fit in the chevette. i haven't tried driving a fiero though. anyway the chevette is a fun little rear wheel drive car.

Dan


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## Guest (Jun 3, 2009)

> chevette


 AKA Shoveit!


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I think it will be a sweet EV. Especially after a little body work and fresh paint job. I hope to expose most of the electronics, batteries and possibly the motor under the glass of the hatchback. It would be cool for folks to see the workings especially at the local "cruise night".

I think the motor could be mounted 90 degrees as compared to the drive shaft (torque tube) position right now.

I haven't even started the project really. i need to hit the books a lot more first.

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

UPDATE!

I have read that forklift motors and controllers may be a good solution for building a do it yourself EV so I went ahead and purchased 2 forklifts from a GSA auction.

I am not sure if these are really practical because they are 24 volt models. I suppose I will be renting a flatbed trailer and picking them up sometime this week. I am hoping to get some useful parts including electronics and motors then scrapping the rest.

I still have the Chevette waiting in my backyard.

Dan


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## gte718p (Jul 30, 2009)

24 volts may be a little low for an EV. They may hold up to a higher voltage or you might be able to get them rewound for higher voltage. Its fairly simple to do if you have the right equipment.

If the forklift is repairable they make an invaluble shop tool. Fork lifts make the best engine hoists, and make projects and parts around a breeeze.


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

The forklifts may be functional but do not come with a 24 volt charger. They do have batteries.

I was going to rent a flatbed trailer today but when I told the man I was going to haul a forklift he said it was too risky and may damage the trailer.
I asked another rental company who had 10,000 pound trailers but said he wouldn't rent it to me unless I had at least a f350 truck. My truck is only 1/2 ton.

The one forklift seems to have easy access to the electronics and I saw at least 3 electric mottors. The main motor in the center is connected to a large sproket and chain. I am hoping to mount the large motor directly to my differential in the chevette if it proves to be suitable.

I don't know if/how I will be able to transport the forklifts yet. I do have access to a larger truck but it doesn't have a trailer hitch installed yet.

I also bought a pair of washers and dryers so I inspected the forklifts today when I picked them up. One of the forklifts has a weight of 7000 pounds with batteries installed and the battery itself weighs 1500 pounds. 

Is there any chance I can use this battery in my EV? I believe it will sit in the backseat. It will fit directly behind the front driver and passenger seats in the center of the vehicle. Well I needn't focus on batteries yet. I like the idea of using the 6 volt golf cart batteries anyway.

One Idea I had was ask Ashley Salvage if I can deliver the forklifts and if they can hold them for me(store them for me) until I am able to remove the electronics and motors. This way I only have to transport the forklifts once. On the other hand one or both units may be functional and worth something to someone such as shop lifts etc...

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

Each forklift weighs about 7000 pounds with it's battery. I don't have a truck and or trailer to haul this much weight. I found someone who agreed to transport both forklifts to his business where I can remove all the parts I need. He even offered his crew to help remove the motors and electronics. After I am through with them he gets to keep what's left for scrap.

I think this is a good plan because I won't have to worry about transporting the forklifts to my house and then move them again later. I intend to pull as much as possible from both units. I'll keep yall posted on my progress. I'll certainly post info about the model numbers of the motors.

It's been a while since I was researching the EV conversion. I am anxious to get a motor installed into the Chevette at least but I know that step is still further down the road.

In the meantime I suppose I will post ads on craigslist for the engine and other ICE components from the "vette" because I haven't even begun to strip the car down. The Chevette is still in the condition it was when I towed her home from alabama with a busted transmission. I am hoping to be able to use it's rear axle and "torque tube" for a direct drive EV.

I would like to mount the motor directly above the differential so the motor will sit in the rear compartment under the hatchback of the car. In fact I would like as much of the electronics and contactors, relays, controller etc to be located in this area. I think it would be cool to see all the stuff through the back window of the car. It would be really cool at car shows, cruise ins etc...

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I just picked up a 36 volt industrial truck complete without batteries. I may not need the forklift parts after all. Anyway, I can't wait to connect the batteries and see if the thing even works.



















Dan


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

Interesting specs...

http://www.amproinc.info/product_info/td_Model%20B.pdf

12mph is about as quick as a stock Chevette...

You might need to bolt is up to a real transmission though.


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## Guest (Sep 5, 2009)

When you get it hooked up it will be slow but it would move a Chevette. The gearing on that Taylor Dunn is for low speed excellent power and torque but not speed. Excellent for bombing around warehouses. 

The motor should handle 48 or 72 volts with no trouble and up to 400 or 500 amps. Just be sure to have excellent connections when you put it together. If you leave it at 36 volts you might even be able to use the contactor setup that is on that Taylor Dunn. Mine is a Cushman Truckster that had been converted to electric by a Taylor Dunn dealer long ago. Mine is only 24 volts but the original contactor speed switches still work. Not too fast but it does go. Mine is a three wheeler. 

http://greenev.zapto.org/cushman/Cushman_Truckster/Cushman_Truckster.html

Pete


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

Here's a guy who siamesed two of those motors together in a Suzuki Swift:

http://evalbum.com/2862


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I brought the two batteries home from my forklifts and I am attempting to charge them now. I think the little industrial truck could handle the weight of one or both batteries but I am not sure about the chevette.

If they hold a charge I might try to use the batteries in my "off-grid" power system. I am building a small cabin and already have a wind turbine and a few 12 volt deep cycle battteries hooked up.

I don't know if I want to strip the little truck for parts of try to fix it instead.

I haven't decided on how to transport the forklifts yet. I attempted to rent a trailer but the guy said they were too heavy. I think he might change his tune if I tell him I already hauled the batteries which weigh 1600 pounds each. Now each forklift is only about 5-6 thousand pounds each. hmmm...

Otherwise I will have a tow company pick them up I suppose if they don't charge too much or I will get them once I install a flatbed on my old tractor. I have a '68 Ford F750 with a fifth wheel on the back. I found an old chevy C50 with a 16 foot flatbed nearby for sale. He only wants $150.00 for the flatbed so I think I should install it on my truck. This plan is a bit more complicated but I'll have a much more practical truck once I have the flatbed installed.



















Dan


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## Guest (Sep 13, 2009)

What was the voltage of the batteries before you put them on a charge and what is the final voltage supposed to be? If you do not use the controllers from those little forks I'd love to have them. Not much use for most but I think I could cobble together a contactor switch style controller for my military starter/generator for testing purposes. 

Pete


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## Guest (Sep 13, 2009)

Get that flatbed and transport them yourself. Sounds like an excellent idea with the flatbed 5th wheel. 

Pete


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## Woodsmith (Jun 5, 2008)

Nice selection of parts you have there to choose from.

If I was local to you I would be making an offer for the forks and hydraulics. I have the idea that I could install a set in my basement workshop and use the forks through a floor hatch to move machines and materials up and down.


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

gottdi said:


> Get that flatbed and transport them yourself. Sounds like an excellent idea with the flatbed 5th wheel.
> 
> Pete


Yes you can probably get the controller once I figure out what I am going to actually use. Do you have anything to trade that I could use in my project?

I didn't measure the voltage before hooking up the battery but I did connect a 100 watt inverter for a few seconds and plugged in one of my mom's lamps with a 6 watt CFL bulb in it. This was after a few days of charging. I know it doesn't draw much current but the little inverter probably wouldn't have functioned under 10.2 or 11-12 volts. They automatically shutdown with low voltage.

The little charge indicator is not going all the way down to the fully charged state after leaving the charger on for 2 or 3 days. It seems to be going down slowly. I added about a quart of water to each cell though.

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I finally scrapped the forklifts. I broke down and rented a flatbed truck. I apologize for not taking photos. I pulled the three motors and controller as well as contactors from the yale(double doors) forklift. the large motor seems frozen but it may just be the plate on top causing this. I think it is some sort of flywheel. This stuff is very heavy too!

I had to return to the metal salvage yard this morning to remove parts from the Hyster forklift. Yeah, I had no time to work on the forklift so I actually bought my own parts back at .20 per pound. #220 pounds of electronics and one motor from the hyster came to $47.00 that I had to give back.
I had made $592.00 on the #9,000 pounds of steel from the sale of the two forklifts.

I don't know any more about what I have or how I am going to use it but I am getting closer to having all of the parts to build my own EV I think. If not I think I have some good parts worth trading! The largest motor ran hydraulics on the hyster. I can't wait to look up the model number and try to get some info on it. It doesn't have a data plate.

The hyster controller is the most intriguing because it has about a dozen connections on either side. Perhaps it could be used as the "brains" of my EV. I still think I am going to use the Chevette. It is parked in my backyard. I do however still have the complete Taylor Dunn Industrial truck as well as those two massive 24 volt forklift batteries. I have had one on my trickle charger for a few weeks now. It has held some charge but I don't know the exact voltage.

I also got a pot with a neat little slider arm on it and some momentary switches. 

*I'll go get some part numbers and photos*. I am sure some of these motors would be good for electric motorcycle or scooter or bicycle projects. One of the smaller 24 volt motors says its 9 horse power.

Dan


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## tj4fa (May 25, 2008)

dolinick said:


> I do however still have ...those two massive 24 volt forklift batteries...
> Dan


Lead is going for about a buck a pound...

http://www.metalprices.com/FreeSite/metals/pb/pb.asp


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

tj4fa said:


> Lead is going for about a buck a pound...
> 
> http://www.metalprices.com/FreeSite/metals/pb/pb.asp



How much of a lead acid battery is actual lead? Is it more than 75 percent? fifty? The salvage yard will only pay 10 cents per pound for the batteries which comes out to about $300.00. I am still atttempting to charge one of the batteries.

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I sold those batteries for about $500.00 so that was good. I still have the chevette and a controller and contactors and motors from the forklifts. I also still have the taylor dunn electric truck complete with electronics and motor. I got another old Pargo golf cart. It is complete but pretty rusted. I was thinking that maybe scavenging all of the gear from the taylor dunn truck would be a good way to get the chevette going but the truck was only designed to go about 12 mph.

I have been distracted with a cabin I am building and solar panels as well as other things like getting engaged etc...

If anything happens with my EV project I'll be sure to post about it here. I may start lurking around to get some information about what's new. I still think a set of t-105 golf cart batteries is what I am going to need for my project.

Dan


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

Someday I would still like to build an EV. I still have the chevette. I has just been sitting in my back yard. I still have a couple of forklift motors as well as a 36 volt golf cart and 36 vold taylor dunn industrial truck. Both electric vehicles still have all their electronics and motors.

I got married May 1st 2010. I just got my wife a 1983 Mercedes 240d. It needs a transmission so I am thinking about getting another 240d that has a bad engine. It got me thinking about EV conversions again. The only thing wrong with my wife's car's transmission is that the synchronizer is out on 3rd gear. So it is still a good 4 speed for an electric mercedes.

Anyway, if I get the second car maybe I will just store it until I am able to get a project going.

Then I still have a 1967 F100 that might be easier to convert. There is more room for me to work. It might be easier to mount heavy lead acid batteries. The bed has already been removed.


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## dolinick (Feb 4, 2009)

I also have a 1974 chevy nova 2 door inline six cylinder with a 3 speed column shift that would make a nice EV as well.


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