# how to verify full range of throttle w zilla?



## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

I have a build w HEPI throttle by wire to a zilla. The mechanical linkage between original pedal and hepi may, or may not, be providing full range of signal.... how can I verify what range is getting sent to the zilla hairball, and that the hairball considers that range 0-100%?


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

I like to use the ZillaConfig ultility on my laptop to adjust all the Zilla settings and use it's DAQ feature that shows everything, include the throttle value.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> I like to use the ZillaConfig ultility on my laptop to adjust all the Zilla settings and use it's DAQ feature that shows everything, include the throttle value.



what utility? 
All I know about is the basic setting one for amp, volt, speed limits you run in Hyperterm, and I didn't see anything about the throttle.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

dtbaker said:


> what utility?
> All I know about is the basic setting one for amp, volt, speed limits you run in Hyperterm, and I didn't see anything about the throttle.


I use this: http://www.casadelgato.com/ZillaConfig.html

You can't adjust the throttle value, but you can see it using the DAQ feature.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

I haven't checked yet, but if I disconnect the HEPI wires from the controller, and 'floor' the accellerator, which wires carry the signal, and is it resistance, or volts, or what?

I just want the quickest way to see if the current installation is sending the full signal possible with full range of motion.... or if I need to pull apart the dash and improve the linkage.


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## TheSGC (Nov 15, 2007)

Since it's hall effect it will be sending out volts. My guess is that it would be a 0-5v output signal.


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## electricmini (Oct 21, 2008)

TheSGC said:


> Since it's hall effect it will be sending out volts. My guess is that it would be a 0-5v output signal.


The Hall-effect pedal has two output channels, one is approx 0 to 4V and the other is 0 to 2.5V (those are guesses, I'll see if I can dig up the info Otmar sent me). The two channels change their voltage together as the pedal is pushed down, but they have different scaling factors. (This is how the system can detect a fault shorting the two inputs together).
If the Zilla doesn't see the right inputs, it will probably open the main contactor and shut down.

(EDIT)

I found the info I had from Otmar:

pin1 on the HEPA is closest to the driver
5V power is on pins 1 and 4
Ground is on pins 2 and 5
Signal is from pins 3 and 6

Std driving range for the outputs is 1v to 4v, the two outputs are isolated and offset from each other

Wire colours on the HEPA wire to the Zilla:

1 Red +5V
2 Black Gnd
3 Green OUT1
4 White +5V
5 Blue Gnd
6 Brown or Orange OUT2

Shield needs to be grounded

H.T.H.

Richard


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

electricmini said:


> Std driving range for the outputs is 1v to 4v, the two outputs are isolated and offset from each other
> 
> Wire colours on the HEPA wire to the Zilla:
> 
> ...


so.... when throttle is full on, I should see 4.0v on both green and brown/org? or *should* I see 5.0v ?

second, why are there two outputs to the hairball?


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## electricmini (Oct 21, 2008)

dtbaker said:


> so.... when throttle is full on, I should see 4.0v on both green and brown/org? or *should* I see 5.0v ?
> 
> second, why are there two outputs to the hairball?


I'm not sure, as I've never measured it.
My guess would be approx 4V with W.O.T. , then the Zilla's hairball can
decide that over 4V = faulty sensor

Two elements let the hairball do a double-check to make sure the input is real, not a phantom input from a fault. If they don't track each other as you expect, you know there's a broken wire/short somewhere. This is std practice with critical sensors like a fly-by-wire throttle control.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

ok, now I'm really confused.... I just measured, and not only are the voltages different for the 1-3 and 4-6 pairs, but it goes from higher voltage at no throttle to lower voltage at WOT ?!

I disconnected the data communication wire between hairball and main controller, measured voltages, put a stick on the accelerator to hold it WOT, and measured again

1 red -3 green went from 3.385 to .661
4 white - 6 orange went from 4.170 to 1.483

wtf?!

If there is anyone else out there with HEPI throttle on a zilla..... share your results?!


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## electricmini (Oct 21, 2008)

dtbaker said:


> ok, now I'm really confused.... I just measured, and not only are the voltages different for the 1-3 and 4-6 pairs, but it goes from higher voltage at no throttle to lower voltage at WOT ?!
> 
> I disconnected the data communication wire between hairball and main controller, measured voltages, put a stick on the accelerator to hold it WOT, and measured again
> 
> ...


Are you measuring between the +5V pins and the outputs?
(your post makes it seem like you are)

If so, subtract these numbers from 5V to get the actual signals
the Zilla will see (they need to be measured relative to 0v)
i.e. pin3 should be 5 - 3.385 to 5 - 0.661, which gives 1.615 to 4.339 V
and pin6 should be 5 - 4.17 to 5 - 1.483, which gives 0.83 to 3.317 V

from those figures, it sounds as if the pedal's working (my guess, nothing more, only Otmar can answer this for certain since he designed it!)


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

electricmini said:


> Are you measuring between the +5V pins and the outputs?
> (your post makes it seem like you are)


yes, I measured voltage between the 5+ and signal pairs. should I have measured between pedal gnd and signal wires?



electricmini said:


> If so, subtract these numbers from 5V to get the actual signals
> the Zilla will see (they need to be measured relative to 0v)
> i.e. pin3 should be 5 - 3.385 to 5 - 0.661, which gives 1.615 to 4.339 V
> and pin6 should be 5 - 4.17 to 5 - 1.483, which gives 0.83 to 3.317 V


ok, I guess this makes more sense, but still seems like quite a difference between pairs, and not a full range if that is 1.0-4.0v ? Leaves me wondering if this is the best I can expect, or if its worth pulling apart the pedal linkage to see if I can re-design to get better range.



electricmini said:


> from those figures, it sounds as if the pedal's working (my guess, nothing more, only Otmar can answer this for certain since he designed it!)


I know it works.... just not whether I am getting full WOT when pedal is to the floor. Documentation doesn't indicate what I should be getting, common troubleshooting, or whether the hairball does any kind of internal limit setting to figure out what is 0% to 100% WOT


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## powerhouse (Apr 1, 2011)

Wayyy too much trouble! Just use Zillaview

When you launch zillaview, it should have a gauge that reads "throttle". The gauge goes from 0 - 100%, and even shows negatives and numbers greater than zero. 

I would just do it that way. Simply connect all your wires to the hairball (Throttle + SLI power + anything else that may be necessary), and then connect to it via an RS232 adapeter.


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

powerhouse said:


> Wayyy too much trouble! Just use Zillaview
> 
> When you launch zillaview, it should have a gauge that reads "throttle". The gauge goes from 0 - 100%, and even shows negatives and numbers greater than zero.
> 
> I would just do it that way. Simply connect all your wires to the hairball (Throttle + SLI power + anything else that may be necessary), and then connect to it via an RS232 adapeter.



ok, I found zilla view at
http://www.evgear.com.au/zillaview.html
...and will proceed to download/install on my laptop.

I will be disconnecting the communication between hairball and zilla, as I don't want to actually RUN the motor/controller at WOT while upon jackstands in the garage. 

I'm assuming that at least the throttle input 'gauge' from the hairball input will display even though the other info may not be available from the zilla.... and that I just connect my laptop via the same serial port I use to configure the hairball.... right?


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## powerhouse (Apr 1, 2011)

dtbaker said:


> ok, I found zilla view at
> http://www.evgear.com.au/zillaview.html
> ...and will proceed to download/install on my laptop.
> 
> ...


You need to have the Cat5 cable running to the zilla in order for zillaview to function, otherwise it will throw an error code most likely. 
With that said, Zillaview functions perfectly fine WITHOUT the main contactor closed. 
The throttle gauge functions when the main contactor is opened or closed .

So just leave everything as it is, install the program, turn the 12v ignition on but dont turn the car on (close contactor). 
It should work!


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## mizlplix (May 1, 2011)

I never looked at a Zilla but the Curtis software has a real time monitor view, you read the raw throttle input at the controller. Like 3vdc sitting and 9.7vdc at full. Then you put that into the controller to indicate off and full throttle.

It sets the controller to expect what the POT is actually putting out.

M aybe the Zilla does similar?

Miz


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## dtbaker (Jan 5, 2008)

I had a little time this afternoon to do a little more testing, and thought I'd share what I found...

To measure HEPA throttle signals, I did need to have main pack circuit breaker on, and 12v power connected, but did NOT have to turn ignition on or even connect hairball to main controller.

after traction pack and 12v were 'on', I measured signal voltage wires to HEPA/chassis ground...

at 0 throttle at WOT
HEPI - 3 - grn = 1.592v 4.54v
HEPI - 6 - org = 0.801v 3.70v

... I don't know what those voltages are SUPPOSED to be, but when I installed the ZillaView it reports -9% to 100% throttle signal. Pretty cool display by the way!

So, in my case, it appears the linkage is fine which is good news. I'd still like to hear from Otmar or someone what those HEPI signal voltages are supposed to be when measured directly without ZillaView.


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